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/vr/ - Retro Games


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2021606 No.2021606 [Reply] [Original]

Previous thread: >>2009795
These threads are for the civil discussion of CRT displays (TVs and monitors) as used for retro video games and systems allowed by the board rules in the current sticky (>>1392415 (Cross-thread)). Subtopics *directly* related to this main topic are welcome.

A few tips so we don't get our thread deleted and have better discussions:
>Try to keep it /vr/-related: no +5th gen, vidya only. Slight OT might be okay if strictly related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.)
>Check the infographic before asking anything
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend.
>Have fun and enjoy glorious cathode displays

>> No.2021819

Is it possible to have RGB going into a PVM and S-Video going out (to a cap card for recording), or does it not work like that

>> No.2021960

>>2021819
You won't get S-Video out of the monitor if you're feeding it RGB. It isn't actively converting the signal at all, just acting as a pass through.

What you could do is hack together a cable with both RGB and S-Video ends; Feed the monitor RGB, and run the S-Video off to the capture card.

>> No.2022081

>>2021960
That is, if the device you're getting the RGB out of is doing S-Video too.

I'm pretty sure there are a ton of cheap extron scan converters that will take an RGB signal and turn it into S-Video on ebay.

Check out the Extron VSC series of devices.

>> No.2022089

>>2022081
>I'm pretty sure there are a ton of cheap extron scan converters that will take an RGB signal and turn it into S-Video on ebay.
You won't get a nice-looking output from an Extron if you give it 240p. They don't like it at all. Even if you try to genlock it to the original signal, it won't work.

>> No.2022148
File: 253 KB, 1066x1599, pvm2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2022148

http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/store/p26/Super_Nintendo_Entertainment_System_SNES_RGB_AV_SCART_Cable_PAL.html

I'm looking to buy this EuroSCART cable for my PAL SNES, but I have no idea what kind of sync type I should be using. Does anyone know if I need sync over composite video or sync on luma?

Attached a picture of the back of my PVM, if that helps.

>> No.2022346

I want to get a CRT sent from america.
Is UPS the only option?
I would rather stay away from that company, as there is a 80% chance of my set being damaged in transport, but I know of no other options

>> No.2022354

>>2022148
In your picture, there are two ports that say battery. Is that TV capable of running off of a battery that attaches directly to it? Does it only take a proprietary battery or what? I'd really like to know more about this.

>> No.2022479

Is the difference between component and RGB large enough to invest in an RGB set up?

>> No.2022481

>>2022354
Those were mobile units that could run on proprietary batteries. They could run on either one or two. Two was always better, but it was nice to have the option to just use one.

>> No.2022514

>>2022148
I tested mine by jacking composite video straight into the sync input. I could tell it was working as the "no-sync" message went away

>> No.2022515

>>2022479
The quality difference between the two signals is nominal at best; The real increase in quality comes from the RGB monitor itself.

>>2022148
I doubt that that monitor would care either way, but sync on luma would probably give you less interference.

>> No.2022518

>>2022479
I don't see any reason why component would be worse off than RGB. There is enough information in the signal to get pure RGB to the neck of the CRT without any aggressive filtering to separate the colours.

>> No.2022526

>>2022148
I assume you got that from the Ebayer selling off ex Australia ABC gear?
I'm thinking of getting one myself, was it packaged well?

>> No.2022534

>>2022515
So on a PVM would component suffice for good quality video?

>> No.2022540

>>2022534
I think so!
Keep in mind that usually composite or s-video would suffice.

>> No.2022541

>>2022515
Thanks a lot. I'm quite new to /vr/, so sorry for all the questions. Is there an infographic or a wiki where I can learn more about this kind of stuff?

>>2022526
Yes, the same seller! I went and picked up one of the Sony Trinitron PVM-9045QM HR 9" he had for sale, so I can't comment on what their packaging is like.

I put in an offer for $25, but I think he may even go lower if you wanted to try offering $20.

>> No.2022543

>>2022540
I see. Thanks.

>> No.2022550

>>2022541
I read up about CRTs on the 'shmups forum'.
Thanks for the info on the ebay thing. Can't pickup as i'm in melb.

>> No.2022560
File: 1.09 MB, 3280x2460, 100_9311.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2022560

>>2022534
A PVM that supports Component video would also support RGB, but yes.

Mind you, most older systems support RGB rather than component, so you'll likely grabbing RGB cables for those anyway.

And S-Video on a PVM looks damn fine as well for that matter. Pic related

>>2022541
Questions are always welcome.

>infographic
There is, but it isn't very well done nor is it terribly informative.

>wiki
There's small bits of info that is pertinent to /crt/ and the like on both of the wikis in the sticky, but it's scattered and wouldn't really do anyone any good just reading straight up. As >>2022550 said, you can pick up a lot by reading through threads on shmups, neo-geo, and various other forums.

I need to stop being such a piece of shit and try to put together a pastebin or something already.

>> No.2022562

>>2022550
Cheers, I'll head over there and take a look.

May as I ask if you're looking at buying the 9" or the 14" models he has for sale? The 14" looks real nice, but he has a couple of models and I'm not sure what the difference is.

>> No.2022591

>>2022562
I was thinking about the 9" 9045 one.
Thinking about putting it into a new case and making some mini arcade kinda gizmo....

>> No.2022665

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-5mm-AUX-Female-to-2-RCA-Female-Splitter-Cable-Stereo-Audio-Adapter-Cord-/291092305546?pt=AU_Television_Accessories&hash=item43c674168a

Would a cable like this allow me to use headphones with my PVM? I have RCA male ports coming off my SCART adapter.

>> No.2022669

>>2022665

Yup, that looks fine.

>> No.2022689

>>2022665
Not really, you'll be getting the unamplified sound from the console. You need to stick some sort of amp between the console and your headphones.

>> No.2022716

>>2022689
Phew! Was just about to click buy now.

So is this not the most ideal solution? Would I have to spend much on an amp?

>> No.2022765

>>2022689
wouldn't that only be if he was using speakers or headphones that require a lot of power? i use ATH-M50s without an amp, but not on my SNES...

>> No.2022804

>>2022765
I'm guessing it would depend on the headphones. I wonder if I could just plug speakers with their own PSU into it and if it would be fine...

I'll wait for someone more knowledgeable to reply, I guess.

>> No.2022818

>>2022804

Well if you have a powered speaker system which itself contains a headphone jack, that would work. You just have to know what it takes - it'd probably have a female 3.5mm jack or 2 RCA jacks, which would either mean you need to buy a 2 RCA female - 3.5mm male adaptor or nothing at all.

>> No.2022915
File: 76 KB, 200x179, hotarun.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2022915

>tfw i just noticed a geometry issue on my plano

plus, part of the image doesn't even show on the topmost part of the screen. Shit sucks, i'll have to try fixing it soon

>> No.2022927

>>2022804
it does depend on the headphones, but the volume would be pretty low and you wouldn't be able to adjust it at all. If you have high quality headphones and care about all the bells and whistles, you need an amp like a FiiO or something. If you don't, just plug the 2 RCA leads into any pair of computer speakers or something like that and attach your headphones to their headphone-out jack. I do that and it works well enough.

It really depends on what equipment you can work with and how much you're eventually willing to spend. You can either go full-on audio and buy an amp for 100 bucks that will drive anything you throw at it (if you have worthy headphones that is) or just get a 30 dollar logitech speaker set, attach the RCA leads to them via an adapter you can solder in 5 minutes yourself and then use those with headphones or just by themselves.

>> No.2023061

Hi /vr/ CRT guys!

I've just acquired a Panasonic TX-28F250A CRT for free, as someone was throwing it out. It does have a 16:9 screen, but is it worth hanging onto if the tube is good, or should i take it to landfill right away?

If it is worht gaming on, can anyone help me find the service manual? All i can find are those weird pay walls...

>> No.2023064

>>2023061
Oh, and can anyone tell me anything specific about it? Is it HD? The cots on it are pretty clearly defined, but the screen ratio is still wide.

>> No.2023067

>>2023064

Well, can you list off everything you know about it so far? Perhaps you could say what's available in the user menu?

>> No.2023069

>>2023061
A quick search suggests it is a 100hz HD model. Won't be terribly good for retro, but might be nice for 6th gen+.

>> No.2023075

>>2023061

I advise you to try it out with a couple of your systems and see how you like it. The only person who can determine if the picture is good is you.
If it's a HD CRT it'll probably be good for Wii, PS2, Xbox, etc. if nothing else.

>> No.2023089

Question about getting RGB from a SNES (original one, no 1CHIP no mini etc)

From what I understand I just need something like these cables going into a PVM (1953ST in this case)

http://www.retrogamingcables.com/super-nintendo-ntsc-rgb-av-scart-cable-av-lead-cord-for-sale.html


http://www.retrogamingcables.com/sony-pvm-scart-converter-bnc.html

any help is welcome

>> No.2023095

>>2023089

That looks accurate. Just make sure that you match the two cable types (EuroSCART vs JP21)

>> No.2023207

hey /crt/, some guy in my town is selling a Sony Trinitron PVM-14M4A for about $80 USD

PVMs seem pretty hard to come by in my country (new zealand), but im wondering if this is a good model and not a price that sounds too outrageous to you guys. im also concerned 14" may be a bit too small, but the picture is meant to be amazing with these things.

thanks for any help in advance

>> No.2023209

>>2023207
It's pretty good for a 14'' model. Digital geometry adjustments and an HR picture tube are definite pluses. It won't support 480p but that usually isn't so much of an issue, since it does do 240p.

As long as it doesn't look like it's got 4 billion hours on it, i think that's a fair price

>> No.2023212

>>2023209
i see, so it wouldn't be suitable for my gamecube? as long as my snes, mega drive, nes and 64 can hook up to it with no issues then i guess i am sold!

>> No.2023217

>>2023212

It would be fine for your Gamecube, your Gamecube does 480i and can only do 480p over the component cables. I doubt you have them since they're crazy expensive.

>> No.2023228

>>2023217
thanks a lot! ill be picking it up tomorrow then, guess i need to grab some SCART cables now.

another slightly off topic question, but if I buy a SCART cable for a SNES, will it work just the same on my 64? i've seen a lot of sellers offering cables specifically for one system or another.

>> No.2023231

>>2023228

I believe the SNES SCART cable works on the N64, but you won't get RGB out of your N64 unless you mod it.
I think NTSC N64s support S-Video which will be your best bet for quality video if you don't want to mod it.

>> No.2023234

Can someone tell me why I can't get my SyncMaster 500s to 1024x768 @ 85hz?

>> No.2023241

>>2023234

Its maximum hsync is probably too low

>> No.2023243

>>2023231
I'm curious, would that mean the SNES SCART cable would also work on a Gamecube? I'm just asking because they share the same plug.

>> No.2023245

>>2023243
I know that North American GameCubes do not have RGB. You can get component if you're willing to fork over $150 for the cable.

>> No.2023247

>>2023243

I'm pretty sure you can only get RGB From a PAL gamecube, so no, unless you're just using the composite lines in the SCART cable.

>> No.2023249

>>2023245
>>2023247

Wait, is this person in Australia? Don't they use PAL over there?

>> No.2023256

>>2023249

Hmm, I didn't realize aus was a PAL region. Maybe they can get RGB from their gamecube.

>> No.2023258

>>2023241
But apparently it can run at 85hz it's native resoltion, but when I set it higher than 60 it goes blank.

>> No.2023260

>>2023258

>Apparently
Says who? It sounds like you're exceeding it's horizontal sync range.

>> No.2023264

>>2023260
Google. If I lower my resolution I can go up to 100hz.

>> No.2023268

>>2023264

>If I lower my resolution.
Exactly why I think it's a hsync problem. Hsync is affected by both refresh rate and vertical resolution - if you can push your refresh rate up to 85, it's because the resolution is so low that it can pull the hsync far enough down to compensate.

>> No.2023281

>>2021606

hey /crtg/ I'm new to this shit and I was wondering if you guys could rec me an entry level small crts. one thats lightweight and easy to move around but also have rca hookups and a coaxial hookup.

thanks

>> No.2023292

>>2023281

The most important thing is to look around what's available in your area. I'm sure you're aware how heavy these fuckers are so just take a look at what's feasible for you to collect in person.

>> No.2023308

>>2023268
Bummer, hope I can find a better CRT that will push up to 85hz with a high resolution.

>> No.2023324

>>2023069
>>2023061
If it's a 100hz model, does it support 480p? I've always wondered about that. They were really uncommon in the US.

>> No.2023328

>>2023308
You can use the "gtf" utility to find out what the hsync frequency will be.

>gtf 1024 768 85
># 1024x768 @ 85.00 Hz (GTF) hsync: 68.60 kHz; pclk: 94.39 MHz

>> No.2023329

>>2023324

I don't have a whole lot of experience with 100Hz CRTs but I have one and it does 480p well.
I'm willing to bet that almost all 100Hz CRTs support 480p, since that's the resolution it'd be scanning at.

>> No.2023334

>>2023281
Sony TVs are always a good bet. Anything recent, as well, will likely have all the inputs and fairly good quality. They only broke up the LCD price fixing cartel in 2006, so there's still plenty of recent low-end CRTs floating around.

>> No.2023335

>>2023329
>I'm willing to bet that almost all 100Hz CRTs support 480p, since that's the resolution it'd be scanning at.
That's what I'm thinking - if it can do 480i100 or 480i120 then it should have no problem with 480p50 or 480p60. Do you know if you're getting native, unscaled/unbuffered output? I would definitely pick one up if that was the case. It would be fantastic for PS2/GC where only some of the games support 480p. Oh, and uh, Dreamcast too, because it's retro.

>> No.2023342

>>2023335

>480i100
>480p50
576i100 and 576p50, I'd say is more likely. I think 100Hz TVs were only common in PAL territories which would lead to its labelling as 100Hz (as opposed to 120Hz) making more sense.
I don't know for certain if what I'm getting is direct and I can only tell you how it feels, and it feels very responsive and accurate. I've been playing Ratchet and Clank recently and it's certainly a fluid experience compared to interlaced on the same TV, which is buffered.
The pause function on my particular TV doesn't work when displaying 480p which seems to be a clear indication that you're getting an image which bypasses the framebuffer.
This is just my particular TV, I can't tell you how others work.

>> No.2023380

>>2023328
Where can I get that?

>> No.2023396

>>2023380
No idea; it came with my distribution.

http://www.arachnoid.com/modelines/
There's one that's online and will give you the rates as well.

>> No.2023397

>>2023380

Looks like a unix utility. Maybe try http://www.abramovbenjamin.net/calc.html

>> No.2023562

Let's say I want to emulate a game on my PC that runs at 240p at 60Hz on real hardware. Would it be problematic to set my computer to send 240p @ 120Hz to my CRT monitor to play the game?

>> No.2023741
File: 150 KB, 459x816, crt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2023741

>>2023334
aight thanks.

my current crt is a bulky phillips flatscreen that my aunt gave me for free. the AV hookups are on the side so its really convenient. I just routed all my av cables over there to the side and I can switch consoles easily by just unplugging one and plugging another in. same with the power cables

its a really nice setup so I was wondering if you knew any similar sony models with the hookups on the side like this only smaller and lighter. Also flatscreen would be nice but not absolutely necessary.

>> No.2023750

>>2023281

If you're needing a small CRT, the best portable sets are going to be the 8 Inch PVM series, they are widely available for cheap and it's easy to find sets that handle Composite, S-Video and RGB inputs. They have speakers as well. They also have convenient carry handles, and can be powered from a 12V source if you make a custom cable.

The next best thing for portability are the Sony KV-9PT40/50/60 sets. They are 9 inch sets designed to be very compact, however they only have composite inputs. It is possible to add S-Video to them, I hear. The KV-9PT60 can be powered from 12V.

>> No.2023762

https://batonrouge.craigslist.org/ele/4703111495.html

Should I?

>> No.2023768

>>2023750
>9in

oh my, not THAT small. I guess I should have clarified. I'm looking for something that's decently sized maybe 13-15in or so that's also pretty lightweight so it's not so difficult to move around.

I'm looking to take it to college with me, while my larger phillips crt here >>2023741 stays home

I'm not really interested in RGB or s-video either, I just want one that has RCA hookups and a coaxial.

>> No.2023772
File: 10 KB, 229x300, CRT123.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2023772

>>2023768

Find one of these.

Compact, good picture, sold as late as 2008, composite and coax inputs.

>> No.2023985

I was just checking ebay for monitors, and there are lots of PVM's (and a few panasonics, jvcs, and ikegamis) with high prices but accepting best offers. I already have lots of crts so you guys should try to low ball them, and post if anyone accepts a low offer because many sellers have multiples. Remember if you make an offer and its accepted, then you have to buy it.

>> No.2024063

>>2023249
>>2023247
woah, another ausfag here. I can get RGB from my PAL Gamecube? What do I need exactly? I thought I could only use those expensive as fuck component cables.

>> No.2024064

>>2023768
I'm curious as to what the problem would be with taking a 20" BVM for example with you to college?
Surely you have enough space in your room for a 44cmx44cmx57cm crt?

>> No.2024082

>>2024064

idk as long as it's not too bulky and hard to move like my phillips.

also I don't even know how big my room will be, not going off to college until next year. I decided to take a year break from school and intern first before going to college

maybe I should compile a list of possible models just in case I somehow get stuck with a tiny room

>> No.2024083
File: 1.78 MB, 2592x1936, samsung.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2024083

Hey /crt/ I got a new tube a while back, and I noticed that occasionally I notice a bit of shimmering. It's only really noticeable with text on the screen. Anyone have any idea why that is?

The picture is very good otherwise and I have no other problems with it. I was just wondering if that's just an inherent effect. This also happens on one of my friend's TVs as well.

Pic related is my TV. The model number is TX-R2435.

>> No.2024094

>>2024063
first time i'm ever hearing of this, but according to http://retrorgb.com/gamecube.html a SNES SCART cable should work with it just fine

>> No.2024095

>>2023772
made in china shit quality.

>> No.2024097

>>2024082
PVM's are usually built to be as compact as they can for the size.

>>2024063
From my research, you should be able to get RGB, just not 480P RGB. You'll be limited to 480i, just like with composite/RGB cables

>> No.2024109

>>2024083
What input? What scan rate?

>> No.2024110

>>2024082
I would suggest a 14" PVM. Probably the 14L5 since it is more versatile and is a bit smaller than the older models.

>> No.2024132

>>2024110
this, plus they are cheap

>> No.2024143

>>2024132
How cheap?

>> No.2024165

>>2024109
It has component, s-video and two composite inputs and one composite output. As far as scan rate is concerned I don't know. It's NTSC 60hz if that helps.

>> No.2024168

>>2024143
A decent 14" can be had for less than $100 delivered. Don't expect to get an L5 series for less than $200 though, and they're hard to find at that point.

>> No.2024181

>>2024094
>>2024097
I don't think most 14" PVMs support 480p anyway, do they? Mine only supports 480i, so being told this is like Christmas morning!

I love you, /crt/!

>> No.2024203

>>2024168
<100 delivered seems like a fair price. Where does one go looking for one? Craigslist?

>> No.2024208

>>2024203
They're more readily available on eBay. I've seen a few come up on the local craigslist, but they were hugely overpriced. ($200 for an old-ass PVM-2030)

I live in a shit area for this sort of thing, though.

>> No.2024226

>>2024143
I suppose an L5 will be a bit more. I've seen 14's go for about 30, and shipping just depends on where you are.

>> No.2024230

>>2024208
I see. I'll look in my area and see what I find.

>> No.2024235
File: 5 KB, 193x241, 1405068806460.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2024235

>>2024168
>$100 for what is currently outdated technology

>> No.2024241

>>2024235
This is /vr/. Most of us spend ridiculous amounts of money on old shit.

>> No.2024247

>>2024241

still though. literally no one but /vr/fags want crts. people have trouble even trying to give them away never mind sell them for any price

paying any more than like $20 for a crt is fucking insane

>> No.2024263

>>2024247
I'm pretty new to this PVM business, but you would be willing to pay upwards of thousands of dollars to view modern games in the best way possible, right?

Some people are willing to pay whatever it takes it display retro games in the best way possible. These monitors cost thousands of dollars back in the day, and if I can get Super Mario World to look as good as possible, then that $70 I spent for a PVM is infinitely better value to me than if I had spent $2000 on a 3D TV to play Uncharted or some bullshit.

>> No.2024264

>>2024241
>>2024247

This. Nobody wants those heavy fucking things hanging around their house if they can help it. You are an idiot to pay that kind of money for something that is garbage as soon as its owners replace it.

You could probably find a good CRT or early flatscreen TV for the cost of your time to go and get it out of someones house. I have a huge "high def" CRT TV in my living room right now that I got for a case of beer because I hauled it out of someones garage.

>> No.2024269

>>2024264
HD CRTs are generally pretty bad for anything other than 6th gen, aren't they? Nice score though, got any pictures?

>> No.2024274

>>2024264
To be fair, "high def" CRT is kind of junk. Its huge, heavy, and the only advantage is that it can display nicer looking 480p pictures than an equally garbage early 2000s LCD. Its not great for retro gaming.

>> No.2024279

>>2024263
i agree with you. $70 might seem insane to some people for a CRT, but being able to play my favourite retro games in the best way possible is worth more than any modern TV to me.

>> No.2024282

>>2024247
must. not. feed. troolllls.

But spending 1000's to play new games that are quicktime event fests with no challange is perfectly sane.

Old games look like shit, have choppy scrolling, shitty color, and input lag on modern displays so bad that it makes many games unplayable. Fuck off.

>> No.2024293

Just go to an arcade and look at the cabs with replacement lcd's vs the (good well calibrated) crt's. The crt is so much better, so why not buy the best crt's in existence?

>> No.2024371 [DELETED] 

>>2024282
>>2024263
>>2024263

when did modern games and monitors have anything to do with what I was talking about?

CRT is an outdated technology. CRTs are basically worthless to any normal person out there. why would you pay $200 for a something that's a worthless piece of garbage to everyone else?

I mean shit, people will fucking PAY YOU just to take them off their hands sometimes because they are big, bulky and impossible to get rid of.

and if you really want to bring modern monitors into the picture, of course they are more fucking expense, that's because they are NEW. once we get something better than LCD and the technology becomes outdated, people will be trashing them just like they do CRTs and they will be cheap as fuck.

you are comparing apples to oranges here really.

>Old games look like shit, have choppy scrolling, shitty color, and input lag on modern displays so bad that it makes many games unplayable.

then get a free CRT? why pay that much for something people literally toss in their garbage. it's a waste of time and money.

>must. not. feed. troolllls.

really?

>> No.2024375

>>2024371
It can't be "outdated" if it looks better than the current medium. The only reason they were phased out was because of convenience. Big CRT-TVs are impractical and a huge pain in the ass.

>> No.2024378

>>2024371

Dude, think of it like an older car.
New cars have nicer interiors, are faster, have driver aids out the ass, are more reliable, etc etc .

Some people like older cars for various reasons.

>> No.2024404

>>2024375

>Big CRT-TVs are impractical and a huge pain in the ass.

That's why they are outdated

Also they are incredibly energy inefficient, they can't display high resolution images without weighing 5000lbs, and they release a high pitched whine 90% of the time

the only thing CRTs are good for nowadays are for playing retro games because they display the native resolution of the consoles and don't upscale into a horrendous mess.

That's the only reason I even have a CRT. If modern LCDs were capable of displaying native 240p/480p etc then I wouldn't even go near a CRT let alone PAY for one. But of course there is no need for such a thing because only a niche community would even use a low res LCD monitor if one even existed. That's just the way the market is now. manufacturers are pushing higher and higher definition and CRTs just aren't capable of doing that. No major retail store sells them anymore, because there's no money involved in something no one wants. Therefore they are, by definition, outdated.

>> No.2024407

>>2024378

yeah but you can't deny that those old cars are outdated. which is basically what this nigga is doing >>2024375

>> No.2024416

>>2024404
>they can't display high resolution images without weighing 5000lbs

Yeah, they can. I still used a CRT monitor for PC gaming until 2009. It weighed more like 30 lbs. 1024x768 is "high resolution". And that was just what I was running, not a limit or anything.

People wanting to watch TV on a big screen is what pushed LCD technology. It is cheap and light. And it has always been bottom barrel cheap technology. Plasma looks better for the same benefits.

>> No.2024437

>>2024416
the 5000lbs was an exaggeration obviously, but 30lbs is still pretty damn heavy considering you can get an lcd monitor at nearly twice the resolution and almost half the weight.

plasma also has it's own issues. and I'm pretty sure once OLED catches on it will solve most of the issues LCDs have, namely the fuzzyness

>> No.2024460

>>2024437
OLED still has the fuzzy issue, they're still fixed-resolution displays.

>> No.2024467

>>2024460
really? from what I saw they were much clearer

>> No.2024471

>>2024467
They've gotta use scalers all the same.
You're still gonna get fuzzy pictures if you're putting in a low-res input.

>> No.2024481

>>2024404
>That's the only reason I even have a CRT. If modern LCDs were capable of displaying native 240p/480p etc then I wouldn't even go near a CRT let alone PAY for one.

That's the thing, though. These particular CRTs are hard to come by in some places, and some people feel it is worth paying for them when they do cross their path to have the best CRT available.

>> No.2024485

>>2024471

not really talking from a low res perspective here

when I said fuzziness, I mean the general fuzziness LCDs have.

what really needs to happen is for a technology to be created that is as thin and lightweight as a lcd but is also capable of multi synching the way CRTs do while also isn't as hazardous and inefficient as CRTs are

no such thing exists atm, but if it does get made it will be the god of all displays

>> No.2024502
File: 64 KB, 494x223, ultraslim.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2024502

>>2024485

LCD's don't really look fuzzy, not as fuzzy as CRTs can look and definatley not at a decent viewing distance.

CRT Tech died off when things were getting interesting. Tubes were getting slimmer and slimmer, and we were pushing higher resolutions. A few companies were putting research into SED display tech, which was a display that operated on a phosphor/electron emitter principle, so PQ was great. They worked similar to how Jumbotrons work, where every pixel has it's own electron gun. They were just as slim as LCDs of the time and consumed less power.

You can do some research on Zeus displays as well, if you want to see what direction the technology could have went.

>> No.2024505

>>2024502
He's perhaps confusing "fuzziness" with poor motion, which LCDs do have.

>> No.2024510

>>2024485
Forgot to mention, another interesting display tech that's been developed recently is Laser Phosphor Displays, which work very similarly to CRT displays, in which you have a phosphor screen, except the image is scanned onto it with an IR laser.
It also differs in that the image is scanned in vertical stripes instead of horizontal ones.

It's pretty much exclusive to one company right now, and only in video wall displays, however they claim superior black levels, better response times, refresh rates at up to 360hz, and no off-center color shift. It's more or less CRT tech recreated with modern methods.

>> No.2024516

>>2024510

which is basically what we are aiming for. CRT has gone as far as anyone is willing to have it go. even if slim CRTs were made they would still have all of the downfalls of CRTs. namely the hazards involved in servicing them among other things

if LPDs can multisynch and also be as convenient and practical and economic as lcds then they are the way to go.

>> No.2024623

>>2024485
>not really talking from a low res perspective here
Then you should just leave. What does you opinion have to do with old games?

>> No.2024632

>>2024371
>why would you pay $200 for a something that's a worthless piece of garbage to everyone else?
Because I want the best display possible, and $200 is cheap for that. Other people's opinions do not change the objective, measurable properties of the display.

>> No.2024680

>>2024371

>Why would you pay $200 for something that's a worthless piece of garbage?
Are you serious? You can't see why people would want to spend $100-200 on a professional broadcast monitor that outclasses anything else for retro gaming? PVMs aren't the kind of thing thrown in the garbage, they're professional equipment.
In the same way that you can get an HDTV for any where from a couple hundred to thousands of dollars, with varying picture quality, you can get a CRT TV from literally nothing to a couple hundred dollars.

>> No.2024684

can anyone tell me about the Philips 30PW8402 widescreen CRT? Theres a listing on craigslist for 35 bucks, is it a good tv?

>> No.2024690

>>2024684

>HDTV
Looks like it's not going to be good for much more than 6th gen stuff, and that's if you're lucky. I'll keep looking into it though.

>> No.2024694

>>2024371
>CRTs are basically worthless to any normal person

Studios are not normal persons, they don't use you everyday piece of shit, but high-quality hardware. High quality hardware, even if old and used, still has some value. Personally, I paid 50 bucks for my PVM, but some models won't be had for less than 100 bucks, like some BVMs for example, which picture quality can still BTFO any LCD or OLED thingy you've ever seen (so much for "outdated" stuff).

Anyway, fuck off faggot.

>> No.2024727

>>2024694
>Anyway, fuck off faggot.
The only correct response to that post.

>> No.2024880

>>2023324
>>2023329
Yeah it has printing on the casing at the front marking it "progressive". Also has component inputs in the back. I won't be playing anything older than a PS1/N64 on it, so i'll give those a try and see how it looks.

So no one knows about the service manual for the TX-28F250A?

Thx anons!

>> No.2024972

I sat down and tried to start work on putting together a pastebin and accidentally an essay. Nowhere near done, and even whats there needs heavy restructuring but it's a start.
Any and all criticism is welcome and even requested:

http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
I need 7zip for words. I also need sleep.

>> No.2024998

>>2024880

Just be sure you specifically enable progressive scan or your games. PS2 requires a key combo (typically X+Tri), Gamecube games ask you on boot, Xbox, Wii and up have a system menu option.
>>2024972

What is this?

>> No.2025003

>>2024998
A mostly off the top attempt at putting together a pastebin for the thread OP.

Very long winded and needs to be compressed.

>> No.2025151

>>2024972
like what I see so far, keep adding before you worry about a second draft.

>> No.2025154

>>2025151
I plan to finish out what I laid out before I revise it. Just wanted to get a bit of feedback while I try to get letters to form words correctly again.

>> No.2025163

>>2024094
A 220µF capacitor in series on RGB and a 75ohms to ground and then 220µF in series for composite.
A correctly wired cable for the NTSC SNES has only the capacitors on RGB and composite goes straight to the display, this could cause a unstable sync on certain TVs as the signal can contain a DC offset (capacitor to remove it) and be to strong (75ohms to weaken it).
For the PAL SNES there are 75ohms before the capacitor on RGB, this just makes RGB to dark.

>>2024404
>Also they are incredibly energy inefficient
I recently repaired a shitty LED TV and saw the power rating, the reality was different.
https://archive.moe/vr/thread/1999815/#2002157

You know.
"Nordmende Spectra Color Studio Receiver" was a very expensive TV set from 1970 which includes a big color CRT and 3 smaller monochrome CRTs which all can be tuned independently and the power consumption is fucking 650W.
http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/nordmende_spectra_color_studio.html

>and they release a high pitched whine 90% of the time
You sensitive faggot, i have plenty of switching power supplies (these are modern).
Most of them also release a high pitched whine, one of them is even 10x times louder than any CRT i had ever heard but only if there isn't a load connected to it.

>> No.2025174

>>2024972
Maybe expand on CRT not having a fixed native resolution a bit more. You talk about why LCD can't do lower resolutions but then for why CRT solves this you simply give a single sentence.

Maybe also explain that CRT can do any resolution as long as the horizontal scan rate allows it while LCD can only truly do one resolution (unless using a resolution divisible by the native but this is unrelated)
But that really depends on how much detail you want to go into. You'd eventually write a book on the topic.

Do you want the pastebin to be targeted for retro vidya uses only or use it for why CRT blows LCD the fuck out in general?

>> No.2025202

>>2025174
>Maybe expand on CRT not having a fixed native resolution a bit more. You talk about why LCD can't do lower resolutions but then for why CRT solves this you simply give a single sentence.
I'd like to say this was likely a result in the manner in which I went about writing it, and got pushed off the the way side in an attempt to not ramble on over one specific issue; Something that I probably ended up doing anyway.

>Maybe also explain that CRT can do any resolution as long as the horizontal scan rate allows it while LCD can only truly do one resolution (unless using a resolution divisible by the native but this is unrelated)
I think you put it well yourself right there. It all comes down to how much detail I want to go into on a specific subject and how much that added bloat would benefit the overall goal of pastebin. While something may be very interesting to those who choose to look into the matter themselves, it doesn't add much to an uninformed individual whose just trying figure out why his NES games look better on his uncle's console Zenith than the LCD he bought last week.

That said, the subject will very likely get touched on once I get around to writing areas pertaining to PC use and the like, as nearly everything written so far has been aimed at/for consoles; In fact, I think the only mention of PCs so far has been a bullet point for Presentation monitors.

>> No.2025205

>>2025174
>>2025202
>Do you want the pastebin to be targeted for retro vidya uses only or use it for why CRT blows LCD the fuck out in general?
At least for the first writing, I'm trying to keep it primarily to retro as per the board we're on, but I can't say that it won't get brought up more in a possible rewrite; I'd like to try to avoid turning it into a long hand version of the /g/ CRT vs LCD copy past if I can. Keeping the scope of it down should help in that endeavor.

It'd probably also be a good idea throw in a terms and definitions table. Not going to start that until I have a "completed" product to build a list of things that need defining from; Otherwise I'll just end up writing in circles trying to come up with ways to include predetermined definitions that would/could just lead to over complication.

Either way, those are some good points and somethings I may not have thought to bring up on my own; Thanks.


Now I seriously need to get some sleep, my head is killing me.

>> No.2025208

>>2025205
>/g/ CRT vs LCD copy past
Before you die can you post this?

>> No.2025228
File: 1.30 MB, 3280x2460, 101_0802.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2025228

>>2025208
I'd rather not; It'd likely just lead to the same general lines of responses that happen when someone decides to pop their heads in and mentions "outdated technology" and the like, to stir up shit or otherwise.

If you really want to see it, a search on /g/'s archive(rbt) with brent in the username field should bring it up.

>Before you die

>> No.2025279

Are LG Flatron monitors good? How do they compare to Mitsubishi Diamond Pros? It's all that's feasible for me to pick up at the moment.

>> No.2025332

>>2025279
>LG Flatron
They're pretty good, it's an aperture grille design, and a good one from what i've experienced.

>> No.2025338

I know the pictures are took are kind of retarded but hopefully someone can help. I noticed this red line at the top of the screen, and it fades a little less than half way running across the top. I also noticed that in the top right area where that line is, there's also a red tint/red lines that are really prominent. It doesn't look like that else where on the monitor, I included a pic of the other side for comparison but it's probably hard to see. Model is a 1953ST made in 1997. Is there a way to fix it, or is it just getting too old. Wondering if I should just return it while I can and get a different one.

>> No.2025340
File: 1.73 MB, 5008x1040, redlines.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2025340

>>2025338
shit, here

>> No.2025348

>>2025340

It looks like your convergence is going out. It's possible to adjust, but you better be comfortable working inside a powered TV.

Can you throw a geometry test grid on the set?

>> No.2025463

>>2025348
I might be able to through S-Video from my PC
Is it feasible to do it through snes9x or should I use a different console one

Also to note: I plugged in my 360 via S-Video and it didn't seem to have that issue with the red line(s), though both my SFC and SNES did. Unfortunately I don't have my RGB cables yet to test with the SNES.

>> No.2025503
File: 17 KB, 484x450, com.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2025503

If anyone's in Rhode Island there's a free Commodore 1702 on Craigslist right now.

>> No.2025538

Are there any problems with physically rotating my CRT for vertical shmups?

>> No.2025549

>>2025538
As long as it has a degauss option you should be good. Just unplug it when you do it and keep it off for a couple minutes after flipping it.
My biggest concern is that the case is suitable to support the weight of the CRT without cracking.
A typical PVM has the perfect case for it. Some other cases not so much.

>> No.2025557

>>2025549

OK, what would I need this degauss option for?

>> No.2025567

>>2025557
Sometimes if you flip it and don't give it time to adjust you get purity errors.
Degauss will clear it up for you if that happens. If it's just a normal TV it probably degausses itself when you turn it on.
I believe even if you don't have a degauss option the purity errors caused by putting your CRT in TATE fixes itself by leaving it unplugged.
That's what I've read anyway.

>> No.2025575

>>2025567

Oh, is that the loud bzzt when the TV turns on? I have one which does it and one which doesn't, though that's not what I'm going to be using for this.

>> No.2025590
File: 857 KB, 1632x1224, WP_20141023_037.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2025590

>>2025575
Yes that's what you hear on startup.
I believe TVs without degauss are at least from the 80s. But that is just my assumption based on my PVM-1910.

>> No.2025593

>>2025590

Ah, OK.
How do I calculate the vertical resolution for a certain horizontal and vertical sync frequency?

>> No.2025607

>>2025593
I don't know but I found this.
http://myhometheater.homestead.com/bandwidthcalculator.html

>> No.2025610

>>2025607

Seems to work so thanks.

>> No.2025617

This site has some cool stuff.
Is everyone viewing their CRTs from a proper distance?
http://myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html

>>2025610
Are you emulating something?

>> No.2025618

What ever happened to the guy who bought that fuckhuge 48" Trinitron and was having it shipped from Japan?

>> No.2025638

What're the basic differences to know for shadow mask and aperture grille CRTs?

>> No.2025669
File: 1000 KB, 2816x2112, DSCN0323.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2025669

Man this game has NO BUSINESS bein' this good.

>> No.2025915

>>2025590
>I believe TVs without degauss are at least from the 80s.
Degaussing is necessary on every color CRT to get rid of the magnetic deformation of the mask.
Monochrome CRTs don't have a mask and do not require degaussing.

>> No.2026002

>try to fix convergence on tv
>shock self
now im too scared to go back in

are there people who fix/properly calibrate PVMs?

could use one

>> No.2026017

>>2024235

Those things would cost thousands when they were new, so $100 is a pretty fair asking price for one that's used.

>> No.2026023

>>2024404
>CRTs just aren't capable of doing that.

Uh, they've been pushing 1200p since the 90s and even higher in the next decade.

>> No.2026043

>>2024404
1600x1200 was standard for CRT monitors by the time that they were phased out, and resolution has little to do with weight.

Also, CRT whine only happens with 15khz CRTs and is the nature of standard definition video signals. Higher resolution CRTs run silent.

>> No.2026164

>>2026043
>run silent
I just assumed the whine was at the frequency of the horizontal scan rate.
Computer monitors have a horizontal scan rate much higher than human hearing.

>> No.2026569

Is rgb also not on any Australian tvs?

>> No.2026582

>>2026569
There's some aussie guy on youtube that makes videos about CRTs, and i'm pretty sure he has plenty of sets that have SCART, which should support RGB.

>> No.2026625

>>2026582
I just confirmed it for myself by finding a set with scart/rgb, thanks anyway

>> No.2026790

>>2026625
How common is SCART in Aus tho? Isn't it only German branded sets like Grundigs and Loewes that have it? I'm in Aus and I'd never heard of it before following a bit of /vr/

>> No.2026832

In Europe, looking into CRTs but I'm a bit puzzled about how to play at proper 60Hz. I mean, can I just get for example a 100Hz TV and do some magic on the console and play NTSC games at 60Hz. Or does most PAL TVs basically have NTSC compatibility?

>> No.2026835

>>2026832

Plenty of CRTs have 60Hz support. Some only do PAL60 while some do NTSC - both are the same framerate and resolution, but colour is encoded in a different way for S-Video, Composite and RF. If you're using RGB or Component there's no difference.
100Hz CRTs are a completely different story.

>> No.2026882

is the Sony BVM-2000AP Monitor any good? been looking at getting a PVM or BVM since I started reading about them, is $90 a good price?

>> No.2026902
File: 56 KB, 800x1600, 60Hz_Compatible.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2026902

>>2026832

>> No.2027016

>>2026002
>shock self
>now im too scared to go back in
Don't be a pussy. The only parts that have higher voltage than the deflection coils or some heatsink are the anode cap (G3, >24kV), focus voltage (G4) at the neckboard (5-10kV), the flyback transformer where both voltages come from and possibly the screen grid voltage (G2, 0.1-1kV).
Everything else could only kill you if it flows through both your arms and your heart, so always keep your other hand behind your back.

>>2026902
>PAL-60
Many VCR offer a NTSC playback on PAL TV support, basically they output PAL-60.

>SECAM is the best way of encoding color
topkek
The reason why it was used is because it uses Frequency modulation (FM) instead of Quadrature amplitude modulation (QAM), it's indeed better if your transmission distance is so long that it causes a great phase shift rendering NTSC and PAL worse than SECAM.
But the bad side of SECAM is the fact that stuff can't be inserted into the signal like the OSD/stuff of an VCR/Videoprocessor, it needs to be demodulated and remodulated again. Which is the reason why France invented the RGB input in SCART along with it's blanking input to let the TV insert the OSD/subtitles/Teletext via RGB onto the composite picture.

>> No.2027019

>>2027016

So, SECAM is more accurate but more computationally expensive to alter?
That's why the whole RGB "punching holes" thing had to be done using SCART?

>> No.2027021

>>2027016
>Many VCR offer a NTSC playback on PAL TV support, basically they output PAL-60.

Yup, my LD player does it, but it doesn't mean that all TVs support it. My Sony Trinitron KV-14M1B doesn't, and my previous TV didn't either.

>> No.2027026

>>2027019
>So, SECAM is more accurate but more computationally expensive to alter?
Not really, google "SECAM fire".
>That's why the whole RGB "punching holes" thing had to be done using SCART?
Yes.

>>2027021
>Yup, my LD player does it
A LD player could output NTSC443, basically it's the plain NTSC but with the PAL frequency.
>but it doesn't mean that all TVs support it
I know.
>My Sony Trinitron KV-14M1B doesn't
I told you my assumption that the programmer of the microcontroller fucked it up. I don't see a good reason to force the chroma decoder the NTSC on a 60hz signal, my KV-M1450D is very similar to yours but at least it can do PAL60 because the programmer got it right.

>> No.2027049

>>2026790
I've seen it on other brands but most sets with scart seem to be from when CRTs were getting phased out and usually flat screens

>> No.2027096

I just bought a 9 inch Sony PVM. I don't have any RGB cables yet, so I can't plug anything in, but is there anyway I can get some kind of picture or menu up to see how it looks?

>> No.2027282
File: 2.17 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20141024_201618.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2027282

>> No.2027559

>>2027096
it should have composite, just play a dvd with the THX optimizer. or use a game console that has the 240p test suite on it. (like a Wii or a SEGA CD)

>> No.2027624

just picked myself up a nice 25" crt. i love it, its been perfect. except one issue, the crt tends to buzz when i've got the volume set passed a certain amount. is that normal? or is there a way to reduce that effect?

>> No.2027628

>>2027624
sounds like bad speaker. does it have audio out jacks? (RCA or Headphone)

>> No.2027695

>>2027628
all its got are two av cable inputs and an rf input. and the buzz is really more of a crt hum, but it becomes more obvious the louder it is. its not really a big issue because it happens at volumes louder then i play at, but it is still mildly present all the time, though game sounds and music cover it up

>> No.2027705

>>2027695
I would just hook it up to a nice stereo, that would also make games sound better.

>> No.2027739

>>2027705
oh yea, that sounds like a good idea. I'm a little space constrained at the moment, but after i move to my new place I'll probably do that.

>> No.2027915

>>2026882
Saw that BVM-2000AP auctioned previously. Now relisted, seems the bidder didn't want to pay $80.

I almost considered bidding but can't find anything online about it, no service manuals either (even paid sites).

>> No.2028258
File: 643 KB, 1632x1224, WP_20141025_013.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2028258

>> No.2028614

>>2028258
might i ask what game that is, anon?

>> No.2028637
File: 690 KB, 1632x1224, WP_20141025_007.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2028637

>>2028614
Soukyugurentai on Sega Saturn.
Playing through RGB on my BVM-14G5U.

>> No.2029139

Is the poster who is importing the 45" sony set from japan here?

>> No.2029215

Do all US Trinitrons have component input?
If not, how do I tell which ones do?
Craigslist sellers tend to not mention a whole lot but then again most of them are for free

>> No.2029219

>>2029215
besides looking at the back for it, obviously.
any way to tell by the style? A certain year or model?

>> No.2029224

>>2029215
>Do all US Trinitrons have component input?

Definatley not. Trinitron tech goes back to the 70's.

As far as telling what models have component, I think most, if not all WEGA models have it.

Pretty much all flat tube models with a silver casing have component as well.

Best way is to ask for a model #

>> No.2029226

>>2029224
much obliged

>> No.2029228
File: 1.03 MB, 2284x1876, p034i1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029228

>>2029215
>>2029219

>Do all US Trinitrons have component input?

Hell no! Like all other manufacturers models, they only had RF until the 80s, then composite in the 80s, then S-video in the 90s, then component in the late 90s/00s. Professional monitors did have component since the 80s though.

As for the style, it's easy to recognize when did a Sony TV was made:
- Almost furniture-like , with dials and all means it was made in the 70s
- Gray surrounding, black "internal" are definitely 80s (like pic related)
- All black is early to mid 90s
- Silver gray is very late 90s and 00s.

Personally, I think the 80s design is the sexiest.

>>2029224

Up to the 60s.

>> No.2029229

>>2029215
If you are asking about consumer sets you can check a lot of models here and they tell you the specs.
http://www.mediacollege.com/equipment/sony/tv/
You could even check Sony's esupport and find operating manuals for specific TVs which should specify their inputs.

>> No.2029243

Trinitron/PVM is probably ideal, but I don't care enough for the time, money and effor required for a somewhat better experience. I'm satisfried with my 27" I'Art I got for 30 bucks. I'll post it later when I'm actually home.

It's this'n: http://support.jvc.com/consumer/product.jsp?archive=true&pathId=74&modelId=MODL026085

>> No.2029251

>>2029243

Really nice monitor.
Personally, the only 27" monitor I'm dreaming of is the KX-27PS1 (the one posted here >>2029228 ).
Yeah, you're not forced to use trinitrons to get a good experience, but personally, I grew up with them, so they give me some warm feelings on top of a really nice picture.

>> No.2029252

Long reach here, but do any posters currently reside in japan?
I've found a set I want to purchase and ship over, but EMS has a 30kg weight limit.

>> No.2029384

>>2027016
With that attitude you're going to kill yourself, oh well at least you weren't a pussy.

>> No.2029460
File: 795 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01132.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029460

>>2029384
>With that attitude you're going to kill yourself
I see this as positive. At least i will leave this gay earth with it's stupid people, forever.

>oh well at least you weren't a pussy.
I'm impressed that someone actually took my joke serious.

I remember the time when i worked as electrician for installing or fixing electrical outlets, circuit breakers, lamps in hard to reach places (where customers couldn't replace or install them) and all that jazz.
I considered these tasks more dangerous than fixing CRTs, especially during the cold winter.

But just admit it that you're just jealous of my knowledge and skills about CRTs.

But back to the topic of GLORIOUS CRT technology.

I spent last week at repairing my KV-C2521D, again.
The following was broken:
-Speakers were rotten.
-IR receiver barely worked, the remote worked fine with my other Trinitron.
-Last time i did a poor job at adjusting the screen grid voltage.

What i also did was:
-Resoldering some dry joints. (pic related, this is how i soldered the chassis)
-Improving my 16:9 hack, less geometry distortion. (I originally 'hijacked' CORNER COR. for pincushion instead of PIN AMP)
-Adjusting the geometry.
-Repairing the middle plastic hook which holds the back case. My clumsy dad broke this.
-Fixing the front buttons.

>> No.2029463
File: 641 KB, 1536x2048, DSC01074.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029463

>>2029460
This was the right speaker, the other one was less worse than this.
Interesting is that i found a dry solder joint on the right audio amp.

>> No.2029465
File: 800 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01075.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029465

>>2029463
These are new and undamaged speakers i found in the "speaker bin", these are properly shielded unlike the old ones and fit perfectly.
8ohms instead of 14ohms (louder than before) and the connector was a different type, but i turned the detachable cables into adapters.

>> No.2029467
File: 874 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01124.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029467

>>2029465
The speakers were mounted at some sort of basket.

>> No.2029471
File: 669 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01126.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029471

>>2029467
These were just inserted into the TV case.

>> No.2029472
File: 665 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01125.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029472

>>2029471
This fabric (or whatever the right term is) holds the speaker unit inside the TV.

>> No.2029473
File: 789 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01136.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029473

>>2029472
This is circuit board which contains the LEDs and the IR receiver.

>> No.2029475
File: 778 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01134.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029475

>>2029473
Getting access to it is a frigging nightmare. The whole chassis is mounted on a plastic frame which is hooked into the case. There are other plastic frames which holds other boards that go to the front of the TV and are hooked into the other frame.
No matter how much i pulled the plastic hooks, they just didn't gotten loose. It was pure random combined with force.

>> No.2029478
File: 879 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01141.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029478

>>2029475
I replaced the IR receiver with an TSOP1138. Not a optimal choice as Sony Remotes are modulated with 40khz and not 38khz.
But i didn't had spare one with 40khz. According to the datasheet, the bandpass would let 40khz pass with 90% compared to the 100% of 38khz.
However it works hell a lot better than before.

>> No.2029480
File: 855 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01143.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029480

>>2029478

>> No.2029482
File: 803 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01137.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029482

>>2029480
The closed resistance of the old switches was about 250ohms.
No wonder why they barely worked.
I took some tact switches from old CD drives made for PCs.

>> No.2029491
File: 815 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01150.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029491

>>2029482
My idea of using black insulation tape to stick the magnet strips (for corner convergence) to the tube works great. Nothing got loose since 3 months when i converged it.

>> No.2029509

>>2029491
Is it safe to touch that part of the tube to clean it or what ever? I know the anode is dangerous, but is that glass area a danger as well without discharging?

>> No.2029562
File: 1.30 MB, 1019x444, DSC01140.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029562

There's a minor tilt on my CRT, is there any way to fix this?

>> No.2029563
File: 1.01 MB, 444x790, DSC01142.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029563

>>2029562
Side.

>> No.2029581

>>2029509
>Is it safe to touch that part of the tube to clean it or what ever?
Yes, but i wouldn't touch it when it's turned off or on recently. But during operation it's safe.
>I know the anode is dangerous
And the yoke can also hurt.
Just pay attention to metallic surfaces and the metal around big Trinitron tubes is connected to ground.

In doubt you can use a multimeter in the highest volt AC setting, hold the one probe in your hand and go with the other probe carefully to the TV to see if there is any voltage on that part (more than 10VAC could hurt).
I wouldn't recommend this method on the anode and the focus voltage but you may would see some sparks when you would hold the probe near the point.

>>2029562
>Samsung
>is there any way to fix this?
No is the best answer to this. And i speak from experience with this brand.

However, it's simply not possible to get a perfect and distortion free geometry on any CRT.
Even small ones have some little flaws.

>>2029563
>Side.
Maybe you could find something in the service menu which tilts the screen vertically and pincushion.
On my Trinitron (above) it was called "V ANG".

>> No.2029589

>>2029581
>i wouldn't touch it when it's turned off or on recently
>safe during operation
Why is that; Is the voltage being actively used what makes it safe where as it's just storing it when turned off?

Main reason I'm asking is the tube on mine is horrendously filthy and I was thinking about cleaning it up.

>> No.2029617

>>2029589
>Why is that; Is the voltage being actively used what makes it safe where as it's just storing it when turned off?
No, but i saw sparks on the back when i cold started it.
It's more about the electrostatic field, it's there for a minute when it's turned on or off.
I'm not sure if you can hear it but it's the crackling noises when it's turned off or on.

>Main reason I'm asking is the tube on mine is horrendously filthy and I was thinking about cleaning it up.
There's no great need for discharging.
Be careful with glass cleaner (strong chemicals, maybe use some water) but better use compressed air from a compressor (i don't think that cans would be helpful).

>> No.2029632

>>2029617
>It's more about the electrostatic field, it's there for a minute when it's turned on or off.
I understand you now; Don't do it immediately after. I had assumed you meant the usual period of time waiting for it to discharge.

>Be careful with glass cleaner (strong chemicals, maybe use some water)
I was probably going to use plain isopropyl (either 50 or 90) and possibly a second pass with water. I don't have access to a compressor and canned air won't do anything for what needs cleaned off.

>all the captchas are numbers and only numbers

>> No.2030124

I remember reading about a Trinitron model (can't remember if it was PVM or not) that was basically on par with most PVMs, had RGB, multisystem etc, but I think it was a consumer model. Anyone know what I'm talking about? I can't remember the name/model number

>> No.2030140

>>2030124
Profeel

>> No.2030150

>>2030140
thanks but thats not it.
Actually, I think it was a KV model.

>> No.2030335
File: 1.01 MB, 642x859, JVC cam.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2030335

>>2029243
JVC is a really good brand (mostly) they were sony's chief rival for many years.

>> No.2030354
File: 64 KB, 800x536, DSC_0398.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2030354

>>2030335
they also made some really great monitors.

>> No.2030358
File: 10 KB, 330x286, tmh1950cg.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2030358

>>2030354

>> No.2030371
File: 69 KB, 799x1024, 010_zps4bff6942.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2030371

>>2030335
>>2030354
>>2030358

this lot of nice JVC's sold last year for around $80.

>> No.2030404
File: 256 KB, 1280x960, sony3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2030404

>>2029460
>KV-C2521D

Looks like a really nice set, does it have RGB SCART? (and real stereo?)

>> No.2030410

>>2030404
only does rf

>> No.2030418
File: 30 KB, 391x375, kv_c2521d_701283.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2030418

>>2030410
you sure about that?

>> No.2030429

>>2029460
Can you fix my tv?
How much do you charge?

>> No.2030432
File: 101 KB, 644x708, TDA6200.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2030432

>>2030404
Of course anon.
It's a high end European TV with many technical extras.
Support for many color standards like SECAM (only on 50hz), NTSC, NTSC443 and superior PAL (on both 50/60hz).

Your question is also dumb.
You can see the sockets right there:
>>2029491

>(and real stereo?)
It's has more stereo than any flatscreen you can buy.
Just look at the datasheet of the TDA6200. (the big chip right above the scart sockets)

>>2030410
Troll harder you nigger.
The RF input is unused since 2002 when my family moved to new house with digital satellite only.

>> No.2030465

>>2030432
>Your question is also dumb.
>You can see the sockets right there:

SCART does not always mean RGB

>> No.2030486
File: 760 KB, 2048x1536, DSC00255.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2030486

>>2030429
>Can you fix my tv?
I really would like to do that. But i'm sure you won't like to overcome the distance to germany.
>How much do you charge?
Depending on what i had replaced, how much stress, time, mood and how much work went into it.

But what's wrong with it?

>>2030465
A TV with SCART but no RGB support is something i never encountered in my life, even that small Grundig from the early 80s had RGB on SCART and the OSD of DVB-S receiver was crisp.
Only SCART 1 has RGB, the other one has S-Video only and it doesn't look pretty at all (like composite without dotcrawl).

>> No.2031271
File: 75 KB, 1000x750, P1040303small.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2031271

I have a PVM-14L5 that mostly looks awesome but has a slight color issue -- there's some red tint near the top of the picture. It goes away when I degauss it but comes back after the degauss completes. Should I try to fix this myself or just take it to a professional?

>> No.2031274

>>2031271
Degaussing is something you can do on your own.
Look up how to do it with a proper degaussing coil on youtube or whatever.
If you don't want to buy one, use a corded electric drill. They generate alternating magnetic fields that will work in a similar manner.

>> No.2031279

>>2031274
so you think the built-in degausser is just insufficient? I'll look into how you use a coil.

>> No.2031305
File: 18 KB, 264x246, 1414293610526.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2031305

>all these people whining about not having CRTs
>all these people going nutso over >muh original hardware
>still using my CRT from 1997 to play Xbox 360 at blurry 480p
>vital in-game text so small it's completely illegible
>life is suffering
I would practically pay someone to take this thing off my hands

>> No.2031376

>>2031305
on the other hand, i've been combing e-waste for a while because i live in a backwater. Finally got my own CRT, a shitty Panasonic HD thing. Boot it up on PS1 and it's blurry, with bad convergence, shit geometry, and a bad bottom left corner. Even so, it's light years better, warmer, and nicer to play on and look at than my LCD - which itself has a half-decent upscaler built in.

>> No.2031639

>>2031305

>complain about people using CRTs because he own a shitty one

Nice contribution.

>> No.2031665

>>2031305
>480p
I will pay for shipping. Where are you?

>> No.2031787

>>2031665

I'm willing to bet he meant 480i and he's using composite still.

>> No.2032154
File: 123 KB, 768x800, P1240743.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2032154

Hey guys, I'm a little confused with something.

I'm looking into buying a PVM, along with one of these http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/store/p36/Female_RGB_SCART_to_BNC_adapter_breakout_cable_for_Sony_PVM_and_BVM_monitors_.html
So I can plug scart stuff into it. What's confusing me is that there seems to be an audio left and audio right cable on that adapter, but when looking at the back of most PVMs, i.e. pic related, there seems to only be one audio input in the BNC part.

So... I dunno. How do I hook up both audio channels?

>> No.2032158

>>2032154

You're not supposed to hook the audio to the Monitor, you should use a Hi-Fi system or some kind of twin RCA to stereo mini-jack adapter.

>> No.2032163

>>2032158
Ah okay, so by the looks of things the monitor just has a mono speaker and I should hook up stereo speakers separately right?

>> No.2032167

>>2032163

Yes. External speakers are the best option and it's not complicated at all.

>> No.2032169 [DELETED] 

>>2032163

Yup, you'll get a better sound too. Most TV and monitor speakers don't sound that great anyway.

>> No.2032171

>>2032163

Yup, you'll get a better sound too. Most TV and monitor speakers don't sound that great anyway.

Also, nice monitor, I assume it is yours?

>> No.2032173

>>2032167
Cool, thanks. Might have to make do with the built in speaker or a pair of headphones for the time being, I'm planning on buying a lot of old vidya shit along with a monitor.

>> No.2032175

>>2032171
Not yet. I'm looking into buying it.

>> No.2032176

>>2032175

Oh I see. Looks like a nice find anyway. Don't hesitate to post photos of it if you get it.

>> No.2032278

What's the best way to display a 15khz source on a 31khz VGA monitor?

>> No.2032283

>>2032278
A good upscaler, obviously. Get one made for games - typically, pro stuff chokes on 240p signals.

>> No.2032606
File: 115 KB, 1600x646, 231321.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2032606

will it work?

>> No.2032628
File: 1.01 MB, 3280x2460, 101_1064.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2032628

>> No.2032737

>>2032606
If you can get OS X to do resolutions that low maybe, but I highly doubt it.

>> No.2032795

>want a Sony Wega or an LG Flatron
>look for them on the internet
>prices are jewed up
>delivery is triple the price
>TV repairers say "we don't sell 'em, we just repair 'em"

God, I fucking hate living in Brazil sometimes.

>> No.2032810

>>2032737
well its for my windows pc, but my gfx card has mini display ports

>> No.2032853

>>2032606
no

>> No.2032898

>>2032283

I've heard about using Sync Strike + cga2vga, is this a good idea?

>> No.2033053
File: 1.12 MB, 3000x2000, IMG_3347-5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2033053

Mmm.

>> No.2033063

>>2033053
Hnnnng

I love that series of Sony monitors.

>> No.2033079

>>2033063
Has the same look as a 15kHz Commodore monitor with the perk of being 10 years newer than my old Commodore 1081 and being a Trinitron. Prefer it to PVMs.

>> No.2033559
File: 1.63 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20141027_230241.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2033559

>> No.2033752

new to PVMs in general, but is the 14M4U a good monitor? thinking of purchasing one as my first

>> No.2033767

>>2033752
>14M4U
Very good. 800TVL tube, all the inputs you need, digital geometry adjusments, etc etc. Very good set.

>> No.2033917

>>2033079

>KX-14CP1
>10 year newer than a Commodore 1081

They were made in the mid 80s for Sony MSX/MSX2 computers.

>> No.2034086

>>2033917
Chassis says 1995. My 1081 was made 1985.

>> No.2034101
File: 193 KB, 853x1175, KX-14+MSX2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2034101

>>2034086

Then maybe the KX-14CP1 had a longer production span, because it appeared in MSX-related magazines as early as 1986.
Anyway, it looks like a really nice monitor. There is one sold for a ridiculously cheap price (3 bucks?) in a really bad shape but somewhere in the middle of nowhere, in a region next to the one I live in. It's the kind of situation that make you wish you weren't too lazy to get a driver license.

>> No.2034102

>>2034101
It makes sense since theres a PVM using the same design from 93.

>> No.2034124

>>2034101
Mine was £30 posted. Isn't in immaculate condition but not terrible. I adjusted the image via pots on the chassis and gave it a good wipe down. Gotta love the massive sturdy power button.

>> No.2034196

>>2034101
Speaking of small and white Trinitrons.
I was thinking of replacing my badly silver sprayed KV-M1400D with the same one which isn't spray painted.
I watched several auctions of this particular model and someone always bought them for 5-10€ with about 5-8€ shipping.
But then i just found this:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Sony-Trinitron-KV-M1420D-/221586300777
KV-M1420D in white with original remote, has AV inputs on the front which are worthless as they are shorted to the SCART input on the back.
It has the exact same chassis, so i guess that mine is just a redesign as the release date from this model (August 90) predates mine by 3 years (March 93).

I honestly wonder how common they are.

>> No.2034232

>>2034196

I don't know how common they are, but sure it looks nice. I don't know why people would spray it with silver cases, most of the mono-color silver cases from the 00s are ugly as hell (what saves the 80s ones is that the color scheme is pretty nice, with the mix of a less silver gray and black).
Anyway, this seller have fine tastes in video games as I see.

>> No.2034309

Is there any easy way to know if a HD CRT has native support for lower than native resolutions like 480p, 720p or if they just scale them all to 1080i?

Any kind of database?

>> No.2034465
File: 267 KB, 918x1632, WP_20141028_001.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2034465

New toy for my BVM.

>> No.2034518
File: 265 KB, 918x1632, WP_20141028_003.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2034518

Removing the BKM-20D.
That RGB card is wired to the monitor.
I only attempted to take it out because the manual said to go from the rightmost when installing or removing a 20D. Didn't take that other card out cause I didn't want to unplug the wires. Didn't need to do that anyway.

>> No.2034519
File: 403 KB, 918x1632, WP_20141028_005.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2034519

Installing the BKM-24N

>> No.2034528
File: 292 KB, 918x1632, WP_20141028_009.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2034528

It would be cool to take that controller card out (if they even allow you to) and put my 20D back in. Just to have 4 possible RGB inputs. Overkill but cool.

>> No.2034530
File: 258 KB, 1632x918, WP_20141028_013.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2034530

Ayyy
Now my BVM can do any input you would want.

>> No.2034531

>>2034465
>BNC jacks
shit's about to get serious

>> No.2034557

>>2034465
>>2034518
>>2034519
>>2034528
>>2034530
Nice

I'm just here waiting for a HD15female to DB15 male adapter to get here.
Amusingly, it seems that this specific one was made to be paired with old Sony monitors: TQUA16.

>> No.2034563
File: 346 KB, 1632x918, WP_20141028_014.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2034563

Help.
My composite isn't working.
Tried a few of the ports they all give the same problem when using composite.
Haven't tried YC since I don't have a cable for that.
Component works fine on this card though.
Tried a couple composite sources. They all do this regardless of the port I use on the card.

>> No.2034570

>>2034563

Try putting the Y of component in the composite ports and show how it looks

>> No.2034574

>>2034563
You need 75 ohm terminators on the looped outputs of the card.

>> No.2034579
File: 243 KB, 1632x918, WP_20141028_015.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2034579

>>2034570
Here is Y going into the same port setup for composite.
Comb is off.

>> No.2034586
File: 410 KB, 1632x918, WP_20141028_016.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2034586

>>2034570
Same thing with comb off.

>>2034574
I thought of that for a minute. Then I tried to go out to my other PVM which has terminators in the monitors and didn't do anything. Looks great on my other monitor looping out of this one. If I can't figure it out I'll see if Radio Shack has some and I'll try it.

>> No.2034593

>>2034579
That shadowing reminds me of what my shitty capture card would do to my screen when connected up with S-Video.

>> No.2034605
File: 284 KB, 1632x918, WP_20141028_017.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2034605

Composite into BVM on the left going out to PVM on the right where it has a switch to terminate.
Picture on BVM gets more scrambled when hooked up to PVM.

>> No.2034747

Well it seems to be happening on every input regardless of the settings. I guess when I tried component I didn't notice.
Of course Radio Shack didn't have shit.
So maybe it's the terminators which the manual states you need or maybe the "tested" card is just broken.

>> No.2036098

Has anyone ever had any significant results from and s-vdeo input on and LCD?

Or is it a futile thing?

Mostly 5th and 6th gen.

>> No.2036102

Does anyone else find the interlace effect of 480i conten5 visually nice on a crt?

>> No.2036126
File: 210 KB, 1600x1200, $_57.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2036126

What kind of ports are these? They don't look like BNC.

>> No.2036127
File: 30 KB, 225x225, BNC.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2036127

>>2036126
That's BNC dude.
What monitor is that?

>> No.2036128

>>2036126

Well they do look like BNC to me.

>> No.2036131

>>2036102

I do find this kind of content pleasant to watch, but mostly with films and other 25 FPS stuff.

>> No.2036151

>>2036126
BNC as fuck.

>> No.2036238
File: 155 KB, 1600x1200, $_57a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2036238

So a seller somewhat near me is offering a Sony BVM-2000AP for about AUD$80.

I can't find much info online about it. I think it's a 1988 model. I'll post two photos, one of the front, and one back. It doesn't look to have speakers, and i can only see Composite and RGB inputs on the back. The seller is claiming it takes component video (by which he may mean RGBS component, or standard RGB, and not YPbPr component)

Is it possible to get S-Video into the unit somehow? It certainly predates the BKM cards for the BVM-D series and up. Might it actually take YPbPr component through those ports?

Anyone have any official specs for the unit?

>> No.2036242
File: 266 KB, 1600x1200, $_57.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2036242

>>2036238
>>2036126

Second photo. I think I'm posting about the same CRT as that guy. If you're gonna go for it, be my guest. Let's try and keep it out of e-waste though :)

>> No.2036252

>>2036238
I can't seem to find any info or documentation on it, however it seems like a decent set. Looking at the pictures you posted, it seems like a fairly high-end model. The front panel pulls out for more extensive controls for picture adjustments, if it has an HR tube expect about 800TVL of resolution. I would probably say no S-video and no YPbPr, since on every PVM/BVM i've had is labeled as such, however the 'vector out' ports look curious in that regard.

It won't have speakers, i can't think of a BVM that did.

Also, the damn thing has a key. Shit's probaly got a big block chevy hidden away in it somewhere. I'd be getting one of those retro 70's audio receivers with a key to match it.

>> No.2036253

>>2036131
When it comes to 3d graphically intended games such as the playstation one or two I find the 480i gives it a lighter finer picture then 480p.

>> No.2036256

>>2036242
>>2036238

It doesn't look like it can take either S-Video or YPbPr. RGB is good enough anyway, as most people want to get YPbPr out of consoles because it's easier to find a monitor with this kind of input than RGB in some countries.

>> No.2036259

>>2036252
Thx anon, i might contact the seller and see if he has more info. With later BKM-using Sony BVM's the input ports can be assigned to handle different inputs - or that's what the manual says. I wonder if it's the same with these.

Anyone know, if the set is only PAL friendly, what will happen when i play NTSC backups on my Onechipped PSOne?

>> No.2036260

>>2036259
I highly doubt that it will have any provisions for changing input types. It most likley won't even have a basic OSD, all the controls will be analog. It's a pretty oldschool monitor, as far as PVM's go.

Every PVM/BVM i've seen is compatible with both PAL and NTSC signals, so you should be good. If you feed a PAL signal into an NTSC only display, or vice versa, it just looks like scrambled crap. It won't damage equipment.

>> No.2036283

>>2036260
Thx. Thing is, it's going to be a pain to get it. I'll have to get a mate nearby to pick it up, and then arrange to go get it later. It's like a four hour drive followed by an overnight car ferry :/

Without more inputs, cos i'm limited to S-video in some cases, i might hold off.

>> No.2036328

>>2025228
That font looks familiar...

What game is this, if you don't mind?

>> No.2036332
File: 1.19 MB, 3280x2460, 101_0807.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2036332

>>2036328
Game kicks my ass like no one's business.

I'm just happy I managed to get past the Joker.

>> No.2036469
File: 1.09 MB, 2688x1520, IMAG0745.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2036469

Any way I can make a DIY degaussing wand/coil?

>> No.2036493

>>2036469
You could take the degaussing coil from a another CRT and connect a mains cable directly to it.
Just don't use it for long periods.

>> No.2036697

>>2036469
Use a corded drill, has a similar magnetic field to a handheld degaussing coil.

>>2036283
Pick up an Extron YCS Transcoder, they're usually around $20 and do a good job converting S-video to composite, give a better signal than passive adapters.

>> No.2036714

>>2036469
Eh, I wouldn't even bother. All you really need to do is just face a crt monitor up to your tv and hit degauss. It will work if you get close, if it's severe you may need to use it more than once. It's worked for me when my subwoofer fucked my little tv and it was nice not having to hack some shit together and then have more junk laying around.

>> No.2036736
File: 5 KB, 250x221, SONYPVM8040.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2036736

>Sony PVM-8040 for $20 in my area.
Never got far into the whole pvm deal til I noticed this. Up til now I've just used various old crts found for free on the sidewalk/Craigslist.
Is this monitor a good starting point? Or should I save up for a better one?

>> No.2036738

Anons, some stores in your countries still sell brand new CRT tvs? I was thinking about this yesterday. Although LCD and modern tvs are predominant here, sometimes I see CRTs tvs being sold (like Sony, Samsung or other less known brands). Anyway, the variety in comparison to the 90's is visible, I only see 14'' or 21'' tvs being sold, is it different in 1st world countries?

>> No.2036743

>>2036736
Save for better.

>> No.2036748

>>2036736
>8040
Pass it up. Only composite and s-video.
Unless you just have $20 to burn

>> No.2036750

>>2036736

>>2036743 is right, unless you like 8" monitors.

>> No.2036751

>>2036738
There used to be two in my small hometown. An RCA brand store and also Zenith brand store, but those both went out of business about 3 years ago. (rca store got set on fire by some drunk guy. Zenith store just gave up)

>> No.2036915
File: 1.95 MB, 1000x750, speaker.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2036915

Well, the adapter came.
I've got to go under the assumption that the problem is indeed that the monitor doesn't like my laptop; Connecting it up and moving the cable causes slight color changes in the screen, which I can only assume is from it grounding and checking for a signal. Windows, Puppy, and Groovy(arch) all give the same results, so I know it's not an OS problem either. Maybe when I get around to cleaning my desktop, I'll take it up and see how my 6950 plays with it.
Still haven't tried something with S-Video on it. Possibly later today.


Also got a set of pictures showing the discoloration on it disappearing with the application of an old boom box speaker; I can only hope that this means that getting a hole of a degaussing coil will solve this issue.

>> No.2036973

>>2032795
There are lots of 2000's crt's with screens similar to trinitrons. RCAs Panasonics, Emerson, pretty much all of the flat ones. Sony's aren't the only good crt's, they were just the best in the early days.

>> No.2036993

>>2036973
This isn't true. RCA, Panasonic, Emerson, etc do produce flat-faced tubes, but they are still shadow mask displays. In fact, I can't think of any manufacturer that used aperture grilles for TV sets besides Sony.
RCA And Emerson certainly didn't use AG tubes in their sets, they used budget chinese crap.
Several companies, Such as LG, Mitsubishi, etc. used Aperture Grille designs in PC Monitors, but not televisions.

>> No.2037006

>>2036993

Thomson made some in the late 70s/early 80s, with an aperture mask instead of an aperture grid (a mask that have the exact same kind of holes you have in the grid) so they don't have problems with Sony's patents. I don't know if anyone have heard of Thomson outside of France though.

>> No.2037013

>>2037006

The tech was developed in the 60's by GE and used by NEC in the 90's who trademarked it as "ChromaClear". Overall, they were not as bright as Trinitron CRT's and vertical resolution was limited by the size of the apertures in the mask. It was a definite improvement over a traditional shadow mask display, however.

>> No.2037073

>>2037013

I don't know if they used the GE tech, or if they simply modified the French lab's tech that is behind the aperture grid.

>> No.2037240

14M4U for $75, good deal? I'll prob try to talk him down a bit as well

>> No.2037261

>>2037240
Good deal. 14M4U Is a good set. Should have an HR tube.

>> No.2037312

>>2037261
Yea I think so, has "HR Trinitron" on top left corner

pics he sent me look good (tube picture quality wise) and chassis looks good. I'll get a better look when I meet him and fiddle with it a bit but I think i'll end up getting it

>> No.2037416

I'm looking for the best bang-per-buck video quality out of a model 1 Sega Genesis. Now I understand it is possible to mod the Genesis for S-Video but I've also gathered that you can simply run a SCART cable to a scaler and then connect it via component for RGB. However I live in the United States and it will probably be hard to find a CRT with component input. Are CRTs with S-Video input common in the US? Id rather not deal with a scaler, so is there any huge benefit to setting up a genesis for RGB and digging up a CRT with component input? Or should I just mod the Genesis for S-Video and plug it straight into the CRT? Im new to CRTs as you can tell... Just looking for the best quality possible out of a Genesis.

>> No.2037418

>>2034747
Terminated every output and I'm still having issues with this card that was "tested"
I'm going to contact the seller.

>> No.2037423

>>2037416
>However I live in the United States and it will probably be hard to find a CRT with component input.
Tons of CRTs from about 2000 on have component.

>I've also gathered that you can simply run a SCART cable to a scaler and then connect it via component for RGB
What you can do is run RGB SCART to a transcoder which will give you Component(YPBPR).

Going with S-Video would be cheaper, and give you a larger number of potential CRTs you could use.

>> No.2037443

>>2036493
>>2036714

Sorry, should have mentioned I only have the one CRT and it's a PVM so it has its own degauss ability but there's a stubborn spot in the lower left corner that doesn't want to right itself.

>>2036697

A corded drill you say? Hm, I'll give that a go.

>> No.2037452

>>2036256
You can also buy an Extron CVC to decode YPbPr into RGB with no loss/scaling/lag.

>> No.2037892

$30 for a PVM-14M4A a good deal?

Will it handle 480p component from my Wii?

>> No.2038039

>>2037892
Very good deal, HR tubed set, has all the inputs you'll ever need. Won't do 480p though, only 480i

>> No.2038060

>>2038039
If i set the Wii to 480i on another display, and then plug the component cables into the PVM, will that work, or will it try to use 480p and screw something up, or just go black?

>> No.2038067

>>2038060
May give you two horizontally-compressed images side-by-side (i.e. two lines coming out of the Wii end up on one line of the display).

>> No.2038070

>>2038060
It'll work as long as it's set to 480i

>> No.2038086

>>2038039
Hate to be the guy that asks about 6th gen and asking a stupid question, but if I hook up a PS2/GC/Xbox/Wii to a EDTV will there be any kind of input lag?

Also was there any kind of EDTVs that arean't widescreen? Or any 4:3 CRTs that can display 480p? I'd rather not have to deal with black bars on the side for the games that don't support widescreen.

>> No.2038096

>>2038086
You can find 4:3 EDTVs, and if the console is natively outputting 480p there shouldn't be any lag

>> No.2038228

>>2038039
Do you happen to know if it will take Composite Video or Luma as sync? Or should i build a sync stripper?

>> No.2038236

Found a #PVM1271Q on craigslist for 20 bucks. Worth getting?

>> No.2038240

>>2038228
Should be good for composite as sync.

>> No.2038275

>>2038240
Much appreciated, brother

>> No.2038331

>>2037452

Maybe, but why would you when PAL Wiis can output RGB (he live in Australia, which is a PAL region), and the PS2 too?

>> No.2038378

>>2038331
The Wii can output RGB? Is that a hardware mode?

>> No.2038386

>>2038378

PAL ones do, and without hardware mod, as there are official Wii RGB cables.

>> No.2038450

I just attempted the drill degauss technique and it gave my crt colour purity issues, not the other way around.

Re applying the drill to the screen does not change the issues that are now apparent.

Any suggestions?

>> No.2038482

>>2038386

NTSC Wiis can be coaxed into outputting RGB with Homebrew as well.

>> No.2038527

>>2038386
Described in places as "the 2nd best way to hook up your Wii"?

>> No.2038532

>>2038527

What

>> No.2038535

Can I get some opinions on the PVM-14N6U?

>> No.2038582

I'm not sure if this is the right thread to ask this.
Maybe I'm going to buy an arcade cabinet (a Nintendo Super System, if anyone cares). The seller said that the monitor is not very bright and isn't sharp. Is this fixable? Or is it better/cheaper to replace it with a new LCD monitor?

>> No.2038593

>>2038582
>The seller said that the monitor is not very bright and isn't sharp. Is this fixable?
Probably, maybe the focus and screen grid voltage needs some adjustment.

>Or is it better/cheaper to replace it with a new LCD monitor?
>better
>LCD monitor
>Nintendo Super System
Not sure if serious, troll or retarded.

>> No.2038597

>>2038593
Thanks, so it is doable.
And thanks for calling me a retard. I know that CRT's are better, thats why I got 3 PVM's

I don't know how to fix it myself so I have to ask someone who can do it for me, which costs money. I just don't want to spend a lot of money to fix this while it is cheaper to put an LCD monitor in it.

>> No.2038606

>>2038597
>I don't know how to fix it myself
This is very simple.
Both settings are trimmers (variable resistors as dials you can change with a screwdriver) either on the flyback transformer or the neck board.
You just have to look for FOCUS and SCREEN.

>while it is cheaper to put an LCD monitor in it.
Are you sure that it has standard video connections?

>> No.2038620

>>2038606
I will ask if he can take pictures of it so I can see it.

>Are you sure that it has standard video connections?
Not sure..
The guy selling it wants to "restore" the cabinet by putting a LCD (arcade?) monitor in
before selling it. So I'm guessing it has the right connections.

>> No.2038648

>>2038620

Not the guy you replied to, but don't LCD panels require a digital video source, and need additional hardware like an Analog to Digital RGB converter and an upscaler so it doesn't look like shit?
Anyway, you might as well tell to the seller that it's not a good idea.

>> No.2038659

>>2038096
>>2038096
Wait wouldn't a 4:3 EDTV be a HD CRT? And I've seen some Wii VGA cables online with decent reviews, since all Wii games run in 480p and pretty much all GC games can be forced 480p instead of 480i vis homebrew they would look and play good on a PC CRT correct?

>> No.2038696

>>2038648
Thanks, I haven't thought about that.

>> No.2038708

>>2038648
>and need additional hardware like an Analog to Digital RGB converter and an upscaler so it doesn't look like shit

I forgot to say that this is for an analog RGB input.

>> No.2038767

>>2038648
Yes they do, however all that stuff is built into the driver circuitry of the LCD module.

>> No.2038775

>>2038767

I see. But it will still look like shit though.

>> No.2038778

>>2038775
Well yeah, that's the problem of the LCD though, whatever upscaler you use, it'll still look objectively bad vs a tube display.

>> No.2038829

Are the 14L5/20L5 the only PVMs 20" or smaller that support 480p?

>> No.2038834

>>2038829
Pretty sure, yeah. If it says "Multiformat", then it does 480p. The L5 series is the only PVM's i know of that do 480p, however several BVM's do 480p.

>> No.2038853
File: 1.07 MB, 640x480, frantic screaming.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2038853

>>2038620
>The guy selling it wants to "restore" the cabinet by putting a LCD (arcade?) monitor in
>before selling it.
truly, these people are worse than hitler

>> No.2038857
File: 97 KB, 786x800, P1240733.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2038857

>>2032154 here,

Decided to buy the monitor! Hopefully gonna go pick it up tomorrow. tfw joining the PVM master race.

>> No.2038861

>>2038857

Congrat anon, I hope you'll enjoy it. For a better experience, be sure to calibrate it as soon as you get it.

>> No.2038862

>>2038861
Any tips on doing that?

>> No.2038865

>>2038862

Check for the 240p test pattern and it's tutorial on the XRGB wiki. It runs on MegaCD, Dreamcast and Wii if I recall.

>> No.2039154

>>2036915
did you look at the list of 15khz GPU for Groovy arcade?

you might need one with a lower dot clock.

>> No.2039203

>>2038535
Thanks guys

>> No.2039260

>>2039154
I wasn't even trying for 15khz sync; This was just an attempt to get any type of PC signal to show up on it. It just didn't want to display anything.

>> No.2039316 [DELETED] 

I'm glad CRT technology died, what an ugly monstrocity.

>> No.2039321 [DELETED] 

>>2039316
0/10 troll pls go

>> No.2039328 [DELETED] 

>>2039321
I'm not trolling, it's redundant and ugly. Take off your damn rose tinted glasses! Back then CRTs wre umusable crap!

>> No.2039335 [DELETED] 

>>2039328
Obvious troll is either very obvious or very stupid

>> No.2039339 [DELETED] 

>>2039328

>I'm an underage twat who never used a CRT in my life, stop contradicting what Scamsung's marketing campaign told me!

Noice! :^)

>> No.2039346 [DELETED] 

>>2039335
yeah, whatever.
>>2039339
Listen mate, I'm nearly 48 years old and I've used CRTs for most of my life. They took up too much room, were hazerdous, heavy and loud! I have probably been using CRTs before you were born!

>> No.2039348 [DELETED] 

>>2039346
Confirmed stupid and troll
CRTs are what retro games look best on
if you don't think so that's your prerogative but nobody is going to agree with you so you should just stop trying

>> No.2039353 [DELETED] 

Why are CRT threads recently always filled with idiots/trolls?

>> No.2039360 [DELETED] 

>>2039353
The fact that nearly no one exercises any self restraint in responding doesn't help matters.

>> No.2039362 [DELETED] 

>>2039346
>Listen mate, I'm nearly 48 years old

Seems legit with the way you talk, right?

>hazerdous, heavy and loud!

Yeah, truly dangerous devices! With that and all the claims saying that they throw cancer rays in your face, they must have been a hell of an adventure!

>> No.2039371 [DELETED] 

>>2039346
Still angry that you hurt your feet when the bigass CRT slipped off your hands?
Just get over it and grow up, spamming in a thread about technology you don't like will not change our minds.
>They took up too much room
Some people here don't live in tiny apartments.
>were hazerdous
Were not idiots either. The smart people here know about the dangerous vacuum.
Modern CRT from 80s and up are protected from implosions unless you throw a brick or something at it.
And CRTs usually have a high voltage warning on the back.
>heavy
Has a good side. No burglar one can snag it easily and don't want do it anyways especially when the clueless people believe blindly what the industry and the salesman says.
>loud
I don't get it. Isn't that a good thing when a speaker can be load and clear?
>Listen mate, I'm nearly 48 years old
>I have probably been using CRTs before you were born!
That's so fucking rad mate, tell me more.

>> No.2039378 [DELETED] 

>>2039371

Don't feed the troll

>> No.2039401 [DELETED] 

>>2039348
Why? Because it's anti-alised? I can program features which perform anti-aliasung on LCDs and LEDs.
>>2039362
The way I talk? You mean me being fucking mad by being insulted by the ones who are the real trolls?
>cancer, attempt at sarcasm
I had a cat who use to sit on a CRT all the time and died of... guess what... tumours all over her body!
>>2039371
Hey, you can continue wasting $1000s of dollars on a fucking old piece of crap. Not my prob, bro.
>tiny apartments
Well some people have more money than you and can spend money on a good LED.
I'm not even referring to that which is dangerous too, I'm referring to the radiation it produces.
>continues with the conspiracy nuttering
Have you any proof of this even? NO.

>> No.2039434 [DELETED] 

I'm sorry that your cat got cancer, but she likely got it from you, not your television.

>> No.2039496 [DELETED] 

I once had a pet rat die of cancer. Her cage was right next to a CRT. I wonder if that had anything to do with it. I doubt there is enough there to cause cancer on humans, but tiny rats might be more likely to suffer ill effects from CRTs I imagine.

>> No.2039507

IC in the Navy here.

You're more likely to get cancer from these generals than you are a cathode ray.

>> No.2039518 [DELETED] 
File: 120 KB, 434x400, hee hee hee.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2039518

>>2039401
>I had a cat who use to sit on a CRT all the time and died of... guess what... tumours all over her body!
you really gotta be more subtle

>> No.2039519 [DELETED] 

>>2039401
>Well some people have more money than you and can spend money on a good LED.
You mean an LED-backlit LCD set? I've got one of those, for 4K sources (like 2 movies on Netflix...), because large CRTs never made it there. It's alright.

>> No.2039521

Would anyone happen to know why CRT's look washed out compared to LCD's in pictures?
Would this have anything to do with the lighting/camera?

>> No.2039525

>>2039521
Some possibilities:
1. The camera isn't capturing the light well because of shutter / refresh rate interference
2. The wider contrast ratio isn't being captured by the camera
3. The lower brightness isn't being captured by the camera

>> No.2039528

>>2039521
It's because of how a CRT 'scans' an image onto the screen. If you slow it down fast enough, only a single point is ever illuminated on the screen, whereas an LCD always has every pixel illuminated.

>> No.2039554

>>2039528
I assumed it had something to do with how light was emitted from the electron gun, but couldn't find any talk about it on google.
So basically the phosphors on the crt are dimmer because they are not directly lit?
Also would this be reversed if you used a camera with a slow shutter speed?

>> No.2039673
File: 1.04 MB, 3280x2460, 101_1186.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2039673

>> No.2039691
File: 258 KB, 268x613, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2039691

Any suggestions on how to fix this colour misalignment and geometry?

>> No.2039780 [DELETED] 

>>2039518
I am telling you how it fucking was, also go around asking others if you don't believe me. Search up "cat death crt cancer."

>> No.2039785

>>2039691
Read the service manual.

>> No.2039790 [DELETED] 
File: 59 KB, 192x182, cheeky banana.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2039790

>>2039780
no really, you can stop now. you're clogging up the thread

>> No.2039817

Is there a difference between internal sync and external sync?

>> No.2039826 [DELETED] 

>>2039790
You're pissing me off, so I won't reply anyway.

>> No.2039835 [DELETED] 

Haha, didn't DO YOUR RESEARCH AND ACTUALLY LOOKED IT UP. Bevause you KNOW it was true you are IN DENIAL, rose-tinted fag.

CRTs are hazerdous to the environment, your pets, you. But I know you won't listen, don't worry the government will make them illegal one day.

>> No.2039848 [DELETED] 

>>2039835
Why are you typing like the Time Cube guy?

>> No.2039882 [DELETED] 

>>2039835
why did you come here?
why are you doing this?
does this make you feel good about yourself?
do you really think you're going to change anyone's mind?

No.
Go resume your life, if you have one.

>> No.2039897 [DELETED] 

>>2039817
One is internal and the other is external.

>> No.2040185

>>2038482
I've seen people mention this a few times. Source and link to instructions on exactly how to do this?

>> No.2040196

>>2039817
Are you talking about on a PVM/BVM? External sync refers to a separate cable for the sync signal, while "internal" sync means pulses carried on the composite/luma channel.

>> No.2040251

>>2039785
I cannot find a downloadable pdf service manual for my model anywhere on google that is "for free"
I have found a couple of websites that state they have them, but they require me to purchase it

>> No.2040257

If I were to use s-video and composite on a BVM will it give a softer picture compared to RGBS?

RGBS seems very "Emulator" like so to speak

>> No.2040278
File: 799 KB, 2304x1728, 100_1399.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040278

>>2040257
>RGBS seems very "Emulator" like so to speak

On a BVM, yes, many people don't like the way it's displayed because of this. But on anything else (consumer TVs and PVMs), naaah, it's far from looking like an emulator, and you get all the effects composite fans seems to claims that you're missing (transparency effects and all).

>> No.2040287
File: 293 KB, 1024x576, L1010241.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040287

>>2040278
BVM off-screen image

I will post up the other image I was hoping to achieve in a minute, but is there nothing I can do? The BVM's phosphor dots are so fine and bright, I was hoping that you could somehow dim them so its possible to get a black in between them.

>> No.2040290
File: 972 KB, 3280x2460, 1368830103575.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040290

>>2040287
This one is a close up, but your able to make out each phosphor dot which gives it that grainy sort of look.

>> No.2040303

>>2040290
I forgot to mention that this "cloud" screenshot is from a PVM

>> No.2040312

>>2038039
ended up winning the ebay auction at AUD$32 :) Sadly i live miles away, and will have to get a friend to pick up and then take it to a freight place.

Anyone have the Service Manual for my new PVM-14M4A? Can find it online for $4, but still.

Is it true you can access the service menu from the front panel/menus? Will that let me get to the geometry and convergence? Will the service manual contain this kind of infos?

>> No.2040314

>>2040312
rest of story, and for general knowledge of old BVM-PVMs in case...

I was going to go the BVM-2000AP, the guy raved about it when i spoke to him, but he also said it was like 55+kg, and i can't work with that.

FYI CRT - he said the Sony BVM-2000AP does use on-screen displays (OSD) for feedback. He wasn't sure it would take component though. It does have a switch for int/ext sync, so it probably would be able to use YPbPr? Or at least RGsB? Has composite and RGB of course, but no S-Video. Model was made from about 1988 to 1992-3? It's marked as using an HR Trinitron tube, but i'm not sure of the TVL resolution. (The PVM-1454QM is also marked as having an HR tube, and it's only 600 TVL, vs 800 TVL for the PVM-xxM4U/E/A HR tubes from 1996+. The PVM-1454QM is apparently a better-looking display when used side-by-side - though that would want confirmation. Might have better quality phosphors/colours?)

>> No.2040342

>>2040278
>But on anything else (consumer TVs and PVMs), naaah, it's far from looking like an emulator, and you get all the effects composite fans seems to claims that you're missing (transparency effects and all).

The hell are you talking about.

>> No.2040368

>>2040185

Emulators usually have an option to output NTSC, PAL or PAL60 as opposed to NTSC. PAL60 has the same framerate and resolution as NTSC, so you can select that to enable the use of RGB SCART cables.
With Wii and Gamecube games, you can use Gecko OS or a USB loader to force the video mode as well.
Both assume that you already have homebrew on your Wii, which requires only an SD card.

>> No.2040392

>>2040342
There are some transparency effects used in some games (waterfalls in one of the Sonic games being an example) that take advantage of the blurring that happens when composite video is used. I've never seen those kind of tricks extensively used, though.

>> No.2040397

Another image of the difference between BVM and consumer grade sets.

It looks like I will have to get a lower consumer grade set if I want the intended effect, but I don't exactly fancy owning more then one CRT

>> No.2040401

>>2040392
Your post looked like you were implying RGBs in anything but a BVM caused transparency effects to kick in. Glad you didn't go full retard.

By the way yes they were sort of taking advantage of composite (namely the Genesis), but the blurring was intended by the manufacturers, it was not a direct consequence of composite aftereffects.

>> No.2040402
File: 949 KB, 2072x924, svidsg.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040402

>>2040397

>> No.2040408

>>2040401
I'm not the same guy.

>> No.2040414

>>2040402
assuming you've played with all the settings? I thought you could adjust the level of sharpness somewhere, or make the colours bleed more? Not sure how to do it, but some anon of here must know...

>> No.2040421

>>2040401

The "transparency effect" kicks in on both my PVM and my consumer trinitron in RGB. With a distance of 1m20 or more between you and the screen, no need to have blur to see through dithered stuff. The so called "composite only" effects are greatly exaggerated. Friendly reminder that the Megadrive was shipped with an RGB cable in some countries.

>> No.2040424

How good is the picture on a standard Sony Trinitron CRT using component compared to a PVM with RGB
Is there a side by side of this scenario?

>> No.2040429

>>2040421
That's some cool stew of unrelated opinions and facts, anon.

>> No.2040432

>>2040429

Yeah, because the fact that the stuff that are supposed to be transparent with composite is still pretty damn translucent on anything less sharp than a BVM when using an RGB video signal is an opinion. That's some nice cherry picking you have here anon, did you ever consider a career in agriculture?

>> No.2040445
File: 1.38 MB, 4800x1200, 1414045950914.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040445

>>2040432
Looks like you have severe eyesight problems anon, may I suggest patching a visit to a professional optometrist? 1m20 is fucking nothing for someone who has a normal eyesight. Don't worry, I also wear glasses.

>> No.2040448

Are convergence purity magnets inside a crt generally safe to adjust?

>> No.2040453

>>2040445

Does that pic is supposed to show which one is translucent and which isn't? Because they're all translucent to a different degree. Yes, the composite one is the most transparent one with all this excessive signal noise and chroma instability, but both the RGB with sync on green and external is still translucent as fuck. Are you so blind that you can't see the mountains through the waterfall?

>> No.2040463

>>2040453
>Because they're all translucent to a different degree.

Camera quality aside, it's the fucking same as an emulator screen, one column is water, the other column is the background layer. I can still make them out at 5 meters, don't go bullshitting around telling it's all of the same because you don't play it in your precious BVM.

>but both the RGB with sync on green and external

That's not what it is, the first is RGBs on a PAL television, the second is the sync signal used as composite, and then the actual composite directly from the RCA cable. There's no such thing as "chroma/luma instability" going on the third pic that isn't also going in the second.

>Are you so blind that you can't see the mountains through the waterfall?

Yes I can see the mountains every even column, YOU are apparently saying you can't make out which one is which.

>> No.2040480

>>2040463
>Camera quality aside, it's the fucking same as an emulator screen

Nope it isn't. The phosphor quality of a consumer grade trinitron and a PVM isn't the same as one of a BVM, the picture isn't as sharp and the dithering still make it's effect.
I don't own a BVM anyway, I don't want to pay 500 bucks for a monitor that look like a PC one.

>Yes I can see the mountains every even column

And guess what? You see the EXACT same columns on the composite pic, but with so much noise blur that it's mixed with the waterfall columns, giving a slight impression o transparency, that you can still get in RGB,.

>> No.2040494

>>2040480
>The phosphor quality of a consumer grade trinitron and a PVM isn't the same as one of a BVM, the picture isn't as sharp

You may want to define 'sharp'.

>and the dithering still make it's effect.

No it doesn't.

>I don't own a BVM anyway, I don't want to pay 500 bucks for a monitor that look like a PC one.

haha

>You see the EXACT same columns on the composite pic

Talking about the third pic? Because I don't. They're surgically blent together, you could even say they've been interpolated.

>but with so much noise blur that it's mixed with the waterfall columns, giving a slight impression o transparency

Talking about the second pic? Yeah, your point?

>that you can still get in RGB

Now you're being desperate.

>> No.2040523

>>2040287
Terminate the outputs.

>> No.2040524

>emulator like
What the hell are you guys talking about? Are we no longer looking for a perfect image? Might as well go back to RF for that warm static feel.

>> No.2040527

>>2040524

>Perfect image
Not everyone's after the same thing. Some people want an authentic image and will stick with a cheap CRT and RF/composite, other people want the best image and will use real hardware/accurate emulation with RGB cables and high quality CRTs.

>> No.2040530

>>2040523
A little more detail?

>> No.2040542

>>2040494

>They're surgically blent together, you could even say they've been interpolated.

Except they don't, you don't seems to know how a computer graphics works, and just spew bullshit hoping someone else might tell you you're right. The megadrive draw on the fly the different graphical elements according to their priority when it's the background or the hardware sprites, or are directly copied into the frame buffer (if the megadrive have one already accessible) if it's a bob or similar. At the end, when the scene is drawn, the pixels you claim to see interpolated with the waterfalls are not even present, they don't exist, they're nowhere to be found.

>Talking about the second pic?

Talking about the first one. You can clearly see that the limit between isn't as precise (I'm now using another word that you might understand (: ) as you seems to imply, making it translucent enough at a good viewing distance (let's say, 1m and a dozen of centimeter).

Anyway, when I read stuff like
>You may want to define 'sharp'.
I'm tempted to think that you're just too retarded to understand what I'm saying might be too complicated for you.

>>2040527
>>2040524

Some like noisy video signals, some only want scanlines and use filters on a PC CRT or have the monies to buy a PVM, and finally there are some who just like to have a nice picture, not too blurry, but not too sharp either so dithering and other stuff can still work perfectly.

>> No.2040548

>>2040530
i presume he means 75 Ohm caps on the output BNC connectors. The PVM's marked with the resistor symbol by each output terminate at 75 Ohms automatically, until you shove an output connector in. Not sure about BVMs, and it's depend on the model.

>> No.2040550

>>2029562
its basically perfect, who cares

>> No.2040561

>>2040548
Interesting, I would have to check the service manual.
Perhaps there is a physical device that can force the output to skip/blank/display-black on horizontal phosphor lines?
That would essentially give the image a more "grainy" picture.

>> No.2040565

>>2040561
What? As in, feed the output signals into a second CRT?

If you mean, attach something to the output ports that affects the original input... beyond the 75 Ohm balancing, I'm not sure how you'd achieve anything.

>> No.2040576

>>2040542
Seriously dude, learn some fucking English. I got a headache reading the hell you wrote. I only got the first part which was basically "digital gets converted to analog lol". No shit sherlock. You may want to know that tampering with analog signals during the re-encoding process is a thing. You on the other hand didn't even explain why the second and third pic aren't the exact same, since they're both composite signals. Instead you're going to throw some arbitrary garbage about how chroma and luma are fucking unpredictable magic and how your eyes can't see past a couple of inches before blurring things out.

>> No.2040580

>>2040576
now now, don't get tetchy. The argument was tiring because neither of them was making much sense, and i bet his english is better than your whatever, if you follow me.

>> No.2040591

>>2040580
>his english is better than your whatever, if you follow me

His English is better than my whatever? Uh no, I don't follow you. But all he did was throwing in an unneeded (and partially inaccurate) explanation of how consoles digitally render graphics, so that he could prove pixels weren't interpolated internally. Sure, they aren't, since with RGB you're basically seeing the untampered VDP video buffer, but what goes on the composite encoder is out of reach. I don't claim I know precisely what kind of engineering goes through, but that comparison pic does make some points about the willingness of the third picture's blur.

His main point was also ridiculous, since claiming BVM don't blur things whereas PVMs and consumer TVs do is hilariously wrong.

>> No.2040596
File: 31 KB, 600x448, 00z0z_l9echNlFYIi_600x450.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040596

can anyone ID this PVM? from a craigslist listing, I contacted the seller and am waiting to hear back from him. The model number he put on the listing seems to not exist and I can't make it out from this shitty jpeg

>> No.2040597

>>2040596
PVM-14M4U maybe?

>> No.2040607

How do you use RGB on a Playstation? Does it run simultaneously with composite, or do you need to activate it?

>> No.2040614

>>2040607
>How do you use RGB on a Playstation

You get the channels you want from each pin (RGB+Composite as Sync) and get them on a 15KHz monitor.

If you're talking about PS2, you have to enable the mode manually from the system settings, but I don't think you have the option on US units.

>> No.2040615

>>2040607
you just need a rgb-scart-cable
http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/gamescart.htm#psx

>> No.2040617
File: 1.90 MB, 1839x2501, IMG_20141031_234156.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040617

Alright I need some help from an anon who knows his way around PCB's

My set has overscan at the moment, (I'm trying to do alignment adjustment)
Yet I'm not quite sure which variable resistor I should be adjusting to fix this.
I assumed it was the V-stat, but I can't find v-stat anywhere on my model.

The Blue circles are the variable resistors and the red one which is the "Phase" adjustment is what I assume to be the correct one

>> No.2040621

>>2040614
If it uses composite as sync, what happens to the rest of the signal that isn't the sync part?

>> No.2040638

>>2040617
>Alright I need some help from an anon who knows his way around PCB's
This is the chroma decoder because of HUE, R-Y PAL SUB COLor and DELAY.
I don't think you find there what you're looking for. H or V-CENT or SIZE is that what you want.

>My set has overscan at the moment
How much?
I say that 5% (from the whole BT.601 resolution) is just prefect for NES - GC.
Do you have testpattern generator, 15khz VGA or something like that for your console?

>I assumed it was the V-stat, but I can't find v-stat anywhere on my model.
Don't do that. It's likely not there as electrical resistance but it does change the "middle point" of convergence, also don't touch H STAT unless you want to mess up the convergence.

>> No.2040651

>>2040638
One moment, I will generate a test pattern from the 240p test suite

>> No.2040652

>>2040591
>>2040576

Noice, You're such a great english speaker that you also made tons of mistake, but whatever, if you're the one who said it, it's okay.

Anyway, I see that you make me say stuff that you pulled out of your ass, so here's a little explanation for each of them if you're too dense to understand it by yourself:

>You on the other hand didn't even explain why the second and third pic aren't the exact same, since they're both composite signals.

Because the RGB sync go through some kind of , that the simple composite cable doesn't have.

>Instead you're going to throw some arbitrary garbage about how chroma and luma are fucking unpredictable magic

Nice to see your butt hurt so much. Mine would too if I took this kind of citation out of it. What I was saying is that the composite signal is blurry because, and only because of electronic noise and the chroma and luma instability. Yes they are, that's because of the way colors are encoded.

>Sure, they aren't, since with RGB you're basically seeing the untampered VDP video buffer, but what goes on the composite encoder is out of reach.

Well guess what? The composite and RGB output the very same picture, would you think they were going to go through the trouble of having multiple kind of picture rendering just to please the fortunate people who own an RF/Composite only monitor? They just encode the RGB signal into a composite one and output it on the composite pin. Pretty genius isn't it?

>His main point was also ridiculous, since claiming BVM don't blur things whereas PVMs and consumer TVs do is hilariously wrong.

Yeah, because ALL tubes use the exact same kind of phosphor and the exact same aperture grid or shadow mask? You're ridiculing yourself anon, It's a well known fact that 15kHz monitors produce a less sharp picture than PC monitors, even in RGB. And guess what, BVMs use the same tube as the Trinitron PC monitors, giving it a sharpness unrivaled by any other 15kHz monitor.

>> No.2040657
File: 770 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01181.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040657

I decided to check out the frequency response along with the 16:9 hack on my KV-C2521D.
The total resolution is 1024x576i@50hz and this window is sized at 917x565.
I also have my homemade SCART RGB->YUV transcoder connected between the computer and the TV to proof that S-Video Luminance is not as crisp as RGB.

>> No.2040660

>>2040652
>Because the RGB sync go through some kind of ,

Through some kind of amplifier*. The RGB cable goes through some kind of little box.

>> No.2040676
File: 719 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01195.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040676

>>2040657
It looks not as bad as the SNES, the difference between RGB and S-Video was rather huge on this TV. Notice how it got right shifted by about 9 pixels @~20mhz which is about 0.5 µS.

>> No.2040696
File: 255 KB, 3200x1000, 1413937651865.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040696

>>2040652
>>2040660
>You're such a great english speaker that you also made tons of mistake

Yeah, I also made tons of mistake, not mistakes mind you, just tons of mistake.

>Because the RGB sync go through some kind of amplifier, that the simple composite cable doesn't have.

Wow. So instead of making the composite go through the amplifier so we can get the sharpest picture what do we do, we just let the sync go through that snowflakey deus ex machina because god knows why. I opened my RGB cable, there was absolutely nothing, not even half a capacitor. Just cables going straight from the source to the SCART end.

How about no.

> would you think they were going to go through the trouble of having multiple kind of picture rendering just to please the fortunate people who own an RF/Composite only monitor?
Uh, yes. Since you hid yourself behind that whole amplifier thing I cannot try to argue myself out of this. Pic related can, though. I wonder why those pixels in the first column evade them chroma/luma squabbling, I really do. Fucking RGB man, always messing with my blurry composite, you just can't win.

>Yeah, because ALL tubes use the exact same kind of phosphor and the exact same aperture grid or shadow mask?
No, but to go from different technology in general and "ONE IS BLUR ONE IS DON'T" is a little big gap for you to make, at least realize this. PC monitors can be as blurry as your next TV. This is why I told you to give me your definition of "sharp".

>It's a well known fact that 15kHz monitors produce a less sharp picture than PC monitors

Horizontal sync has nothing to do with a picture being sharp or not.

>> No.2040704
File: 2.06 MB, 3264x1840, IMG_20141101_011511.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040704

>>2040638
It has a top and bottom underscan of 12.5%
Also these grid bard are supposed to be red not orange correct?

>> No.2040713
File: 2.11 MB, 3264x1840, IMG_20141101_011342.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040713

>>2040704

>> No.2040714

Parts. What is a good source for CRT repair parts?
I have a Mitsubishi AM 2752a B
but its not working... Since I'm not interested in death by CRT voltage, I took it into a repair guy.
He says he can't find replacement parts... He won't really share what's wrong though.
No picture, but weak sound.

>> No.2040717
File: 2.04 MB, 3264x1840, IMG_20141101_012657.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040717

>>2040713

>> No.2040721
File: 239 KB, 918x1632, WP_20141029_017.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040721

>>2040548
BVMs don't usually have the resistor symbol on the output.
The installation manuals for the BKM cards all state you need to terminate the outputs.

>> No.2040724
File: 815 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01196.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040724

>>2040704
The 240p test suite runs on Genesis/Mega Drive, right?
I don't know how much they underscan compared to NES/SNES.
The left and right underscan of the NES/SNES is about 5% (compared to BT. 601) and i adjusted my TV to this to cutoff minimal pixels (2 from the 252 of the PAL NES and 6 from the 256 of the SNES) as i don't want to see black bars on the sides.

This a a good pattern for overscan adjustment (the outer red rectangle is the 5% mark).
It has a perfect circle, so you can adjust the center and size of the one axis first and then the size of other axis after the circle.
Does the 240p test suite has something like this?
Can it show perfect circles?

>Also these grid bard are supposed to be red not orange correct?
What are you using exactly?
NTSC S-Video or composite?
If it's RGB then something is terribly wrong.

>>2040714
>He says he can't find replacement parts... He won't really share what's wrong though.
What a dick.
I would explain the customer what's exactly is broken and explain what the broken parts are supposed to do.

>> No.2040727
File: 876 KB, 2304x1728, 100_1586.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040727

>>2040696
>I opened my RGB cable, there was absolutely nothing, not even half a capacitor. Just cables going straight from the source to the SCART end.

Okay, you're either some kind of bad troll, or just a lying cunt. Pic related, that's what you find inside the megadrive RGB cable.

No need to answer to the rest of the post, it's full of fallacies and stuff taken out of your ass.

Anyway, it was fun to have this retarded discussion with you faggot.

>> No.2040728

>>2040724
I am using the Wii test suite from here: http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/240p_test_suite

Through composite at the moment.
Even if it is composite, it shouldn't be giving colour like this. >>2040717

>> No.2040734

>>2040724
Yeah...kinda irritated by it. He's really busy so I told him he could take his time, that there was no rush. It took him a month to open it up...
If he doesn't get back with me about what's going on inside I'm picking it up.
I figure any help finding parts is a good thing, right?

>> No.2040736

>>2040724
Never mind, I figured it out.
It was set to 240p through composite, and it needed to be set to 288p

>> No.2040739
File: 141 KB, 800x600, RGB_Mega_Drive1_Master_system1_conector.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040739

>>2040727
What in the FUCK is that.

>> No.2040742

>>2040739

>look at what is written on the PCB
>SEGA
>SEGA 1987 made in Hong Kong

Maybe an Official Megadrive model 1 RGB cable? Like the one bundled with the Megadrive?

>> No.2040745

>>2040742
You had to be French to get a bundle with one of those and it was compatible with a specific model that didn't even output composite.

Since 1987 is a really early date it might even be a Japanese cable. Mine >>2040739 outputs RGB with no hassle and doesn't have jack in it. Real sorry dude.

>> No.2040751
File: 7 KB, 500x300, ms1_md1_rgb_2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040751

>>2040745
Third wheel here, can confirm that the PCB is unnecessary. Not sure what it's doing other than providing capacitors/resistors, but you can just wire those up in line (pinout/schematic attached).

>> No.2040756

>>2040745

Yup, it's the same kind that was sold in Japan (with a different SCART pinout though) as they also had RGB monitors like the KX-14CP1 and the KX-21/27-PS1.

>>2040751

You don't need the PCB, right, like with the Megadrive model 2 cable, but that one have interferences everywhere.

>> No.2040760

>>2040621
It gets ignored. The TV already has circuitry to extract sync information from composite video, so it applies that.

>> No.2040763

>>2040717
Looks like you've lost a color axis...

>> No.2040765

>>2040727
>>2040660

Um, no.

>> No.2040767

>>2040765
>this is what a properly wired RGB cable looks like
>posts actual Sega equipment that shipped with the console

>NUH UH YOU'RE LYING

>> No.2040768

>>2040767

Ignore him, he's just a stupid troll.

>> No.2040772
File: 935 KB, 3280x2460, 101_1401.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040772

>>2040290
>>2040303
To be entirely fair, that photo was taken with the PVM overscanning. Camera just wouldn't focus well that night.

>> No.2040774

>>2040751
I cut off pin 8 because it constantly reset the aspect ratio on my LCD and constantly blanked out any CRT connection. Once I cut it off I had to manually set AV to get it to work (else it doesn't get sync), but I guess that's just the standard thing to do, since the retrogamingcables one also had pin 8 cut off.

Out of curiosity, what does pin 1 do? I'm guessing it's the sync?

>>2040756
>You don't need the PCB
Okay, so no amplifiers fiddling with the sync, yet how do you explain the second picture?

>> No.2040778

>>2040774

>Okay, so no amplifiers fiddling with the sync, yet how do you explain the second picture?
>forgot the part where I say "like the Megadrive 2 cable, but that one have interferences everywhere"

You're becoming even better at cherry-picking! Look like you were born to be a farmer anon, don't waste that potential by worrying about CRTs , and just go working in what you're the best at.

>> No.2040780

STOP
SHIT
POSTING

>> No.2040781

>>2040767
I have a megadrive, I have an rgb cable so I can play games in ntsc. I have no circuit board in it yet it still outputs rgb.

I don't know what that circuit board you posted does, and apparently neither do you. But it's not needed to output rgb.

For more information see this picture.
>>2040751

>> No.2040785

>>2040781
>I have an rgb cable so I can play games in ntsc

Noice.

>> No.2040786

>>2040778
Okay, first off I'm not using a MD2 cable, so be more clear next time and say all the fucking cables have "interference" (which they don't, at least mine).

And yet you're saying this "interference" actually makes composite more crisp than it's supposed to be, so that you can even make up dithering patterns which are nowhere to be seen in a composite output. This is how dumb you sound.

>> No.2040790 [DELETED] 

>arguing about dated tech

>> No.2040797

>>2040786

Nice reading comprehension, and thanks for making me say things I didn't even said. Anyway, you're as good at cherry-picking as you are at formulating fallacies. With some more practice, you'll even convince people that arcade games were also made to be displayed in composite right?

Anyway, for the lurkers that might be rused by this nice troll:

>And yet you're saying this "interference" actually makes composite more crisp than it's supposed to be

no, I'm implying that without that PCB, the composite signal is shittier than with it.

>> No.2040806 [DELETED] 

>>2040797
Look, I'm going full dumbtalk this time:

>second pic = sync
>third pic = composite
>You PCB :)
>I no PCB :(
>you composite good :)
>I composite not good :(
>my RCA composite cable really blurry :(
>my RGB sync no blurry :)
>no blurry = better (well, that's debatable)
>I PCB? Wait, I no PCB :(
>How composite better if no PCB? :/

Answer, one is getting it's channel from the composite pin, the other one from the sync pin. The composite pin is meant to be blurry so that the dithering patterns interpolate nicely, whereas the sync is meant to provide the white of a really crisp signal (RGB) so they cut that whole interpolating mumbo jumbo and give an unaltered composite signal. I'm off to feed the cows.

>> No.2040814
File: 1.26 MB, 3280x2460, 101_1418.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040814

>>2040772
And better comparison, DarkStalkers on the same monitor. Well, Vampire Hunter 2 to be more accurate. Emulated CPS2 on the Wii.

Best approximation I can get for that, considering there's no pause option.

>> No.2040824
File: 16 KB, 300x271, gen1_pinout.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040824

>>2040806

Not him, but it's probably because a SCART cable have more shielding than a single composite cable, no?

Anyway, you made absolutely no sense in your previous posts, that was painful to read.

>> No.2040827

>>2040797
Why the HELL was my message deleted? You couldn't even come up with a civil answer you decided to report my posts out of mad?

>> No.2040829

>>2040827

Nope, I'm not the guy who reported it. But your message was so shitty that someone else did it, and the mods/janitor though that it was legitimate shitposting.

Anyway, before you move your goal post another time, this anon here >>2040824 might have posted the solution to your "problem".

>> No.2040831

>>2040824
>Not him, but it's probably because a SCART cable have more shielding than a single composite cable, no?

Mine DOESN'T HAVE any kind of shielding, as I already told you, retrogamingacables' cable is damn full of capacitors on the SCART's end, while this other one I use has got fucking nothing in it.

Also

>shielding
>a single RCA fucking cable

What do you even fucking shield it from? Itself? And if the lack of shielding gives the absolute perfect conditions to perfectly interpolate checkboard patterns and the like then we should all just fucking put outrageous amounts of raw current in every fucking thing we use, maybe next time I'll turn on SNES I'll have PS2 graphics, who knows. This thing's just good as magic by now.

>> No.2040832

I have a 25" Sony Triniton from the 80s. Red doesn't work, so everything looks hella fucked up.

Should I get it fixed or throw it away?

>> No.2040836

>>2040745
>Since 1987 is a really early date it might even be a Japanese cable.

Technically it was made for the french Master System since there was a law about everything requiring SCART output. But the pinout was the same so it was compatible with the Megadrive as well.

>> No.2040838

>>2040829
>But your message was so shitty that someone else did it

Since you hid from every post by getting all defensive "muh reading comprehension" "muh cherry picking" "muh fallacies" I made a legitimate logic reasoning, point by point. Yeah maybe the irony was overloaded but I wanted to get the point straight without any window for confusion. And what I get is my post deleted. Thank you so fucking much.

>> No.2040839

>>2040781
>I don't know what that circuit board you posted does
Not him, but the IC along with some other components is a voltage stepup. I guess it's used to get 12V from 5V.

>>2040829
All the post deleting here reminds me of the GameCenter CX threads when certain people argued there about encoding and subtitling or trolls kept asking very dumb questions.

>>2040832
>Red doesn't work, so everything looks hella fucked up.
>Should I get it fixed or throw it away?
This could be easy to fix unless the tube is busted.
Does that happen on composite/RF?

>> No.2040842
File: 84 KB, 550x417, kv-25xbr_port.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040842

>>2040839
It happens on composite. I haven't tried RF and I don't have any way to feed it RF atm.

It comes and goes - if I hit it, it will occasionally flicker the red on and everything will look ok for a small period of time. So it's definitely capable of displaying it

>> No.2040843

>>2040839
>when certain people argued there about encoding and subtitling or trolls kept asking very dumb questions

Those are okay to delete though since they don't encourage discussion (and GCCX threads on /vr/ aren't the very best).

Look at mine though.

http://archive.moe/vr/thread/2021606/#q2040806

You can feel the irony (hell I even made a pun on that farmer thing I'm thrown at) but all I did was to come up with my logic. How is it even eligible for deletion? I read worse things here which get by.

>> No.2040845

>>2040838
>>2040843

Well it's all your fault for getting that mad on an chinese cartoon image board.

>but all I did was to come up with my logic.

Nice definition of logic mate. All you did was acting like an ass. Anyway, I might as well stop answering to your post, you're to stupid to understand how electronic works (even more than I though with that post >>2040831. Seriously, why would you shield an RCA cable, it's not like we're literally bombarded with radio emissions and electromagnetic waves!).

>> No.2040853

>>2040842
>It happens on composite. I haven't tried RF and I don't have any way to feed it RF atm.
Well, i didn't had a clue what inputs your TV, i thought of the possibility that you're a eurofag with a SCART input. You don't have do that.
>if I hit it, it will occasionally flicker the red on and everything will look ok for a small period of time. So it's definitely capable of displaying it
I think the tube is okay.
Maybe you just have a dry solder joint on the red video path, if that would be the case then fixing would cost almost nothing.

>>2040845
>you're to stupid to understand how electronic works
>Seriously, why would you shield an RCA cable
Not him but you're not smart either.
Shielded cables always brings improvement unless the signal is already shitty before it leaves the console.
>it's not like we're literally bombarded with radio emissions and electromagnetic waves!
Wrong. It's simply not strong enough to have any serious effects on the human body.

>> No.2040867

>>2040853
>Wrong. It's simply not strong enough to have any serious effects on the human body.
>Implying I was talking about the human body

I might not be really smart either, but your reading comprehension is as good is his.
If you want me to explain a bit more, then here it is:
With the following sentence:
>it's not like we're literally bombarded with radio emissions and electromagnetic waves!
I was implying that it's affecting the composite signal carried by the unshielded cable. It's no rocket science.
>Shielded cables always brings improvement unless the signal is already shitty before it leaves the console.
It can still help the signal not to get worse than what it already is, like on the pic he posted earlier. Ain't no rocket science either.

>> No.2040869

>>2040845
>All you did was acting like an ass

All I did was exposing my line of thought in a SIMPLISTIC way.

>you're to stupid to understand how electronic works

Yeah, I'm "to" stupid, however you're the one resorting to namecalling all the time. Truly this is how civil discussion should take place.

>Seriously, why would you shield an RCA cable, it's not like we're literally bombarded with radio emissions and electromagnetic waves!).

I don't need to fucking break up an RCA end to figure out if it's shielded or not. I didn't buy that cable from china or third world countries, it was a competent maker which makes their own stuff and it's the first stop on Ebay. First of all the audio is 100% fine, second, the image I get is the image ANYONE, in ANY fucking CRT thread posted when using composite. And that image (which I remind is the third pic in >>2040445) is confirmed to be how composite on the Megadrive looked fucking ANYWHERE.

The chroma/luma instability you go on about is so accurate that it only affects every couple of pixels and interpolates them without even phasing half a millimeter out. You're not seeing a TRACE of the original dithering and yet you tell me that's the byproduct of not shielding the cable properly?? What are the fucking chances of that even happening?

>> No.2040905

>>2040869

Wow, I didn't knew you were so buttblasted anon. Why do you take another anon's point of view this seriously on a chinese cartoon image board?

>however you're the one resorting to namecalling all the time.

Except you're the one who started with your "gullible" bullshit. Now you seems pretty mad when you're the one who's being insulted (or maybe when we reveal your true nature?).

> First of all the audio is 100% fine

Yeah, because guess what? the only thing the audio RCA carry is the audio signal. And what does the composite signal carry? Both the Luma and the chroma in a way that isn't stable and is prone to interferences. Both are unstable in NTSC, and only luma in PAL. Deal with it, it's how the drawbacks of a color composite signal.
Also, when you claim that:
>the image I get is the image ANYONE, in ANY fucking CRT thread posted when using composite. And that image (which I remind is the third pic in >>2040445) is confirmed to be how composite on the Megadrive looked fucking ANYWHERE.
Then guess what? It's wrong! Why? Because PAL composite and NTSC composite don't look the same, NTSC will be blurrier than PAL, with color artifacts.

>The chroma/luma instability you go on about is so accurate that it only affects every couple of pixels and interpolates them without even phasing half a millimeter out. You're not seeing a TRACE of the original dithering and yet you tell me that's the byproduct of not shielding the cable properly?? What are the fucking chances of that even happening?

This paragraph makes no sense. The instability make a pixel influence the color (in NTSC only) and the luminosity (both in PAL and NTSC) of adjacent pixels. That's why we say this kind of video signal is unstable, because a pixel's appearance depend on the surrounding pixel's appearance, and on what I will call "mutation" caused by radio interferences. It's not as bad as RF, but it still is worse than everything else.

>> No.2040936

>>2040905
Yeah I liked the way you justified rainbow banding on NTSC by stating only luma was prone to interference in PAL. That must have took you some serious mental gymnastics. Too bad the rainbow banding was an issue in the first set of encoders and it's much lighter on the later revisions, not to mention the 32X.

>And what does the composite signal carry?
Audio, in a much higher rate than 22kHz. Big fucking whoop.

>with your "gullible" bullshit
Yeah, gullible is not the word I would use here, mind quoting the post who hurt you so bad? Do it for a fellow farmer.

>Then guess what? It's wrong!
It's not, I challenge every one in this thread to prove me wrong. by posting a picture of Sonic 1 at that precise location, using composite. Not only will NTSC be any different for what blurriness is concerned, but fellow eurobros will provide the same image as I did. In before this will only prove every one of our cables is poorly shielded, is that right?

>The instability make a pixel influence the color (in NTSC only) and the luminosity (both in PAL and NTSC) of adjacent pixels.

Wait, now you're saying electromagnetism influences PIXELS as opposed to analog signals? Where did all that "pixels are no more when encoded" thing go? To me the entirety of your posts look like some serious mental workout to justify the facts I brought to you so that they shape your arguments, which are pretty dynamic to tell you the truth.


Hear me out, you got one way to prove me wrong. You got a TV right? I don't suppose you could make some cable out of nothing, but if you could it it would be really cool.

Get the sync pin on an RCA cable and get it on composite. Then do the same with the stock cable which takes the composite pin. That's all I ask.

>Why do you take another anon's point of view this seriously on a chinese cartoon image board?

Because you also should. Apparently you're not.

>> No.2040952

>>2040936
>Get the sync pin on an RCA cable and get it on composite. Then do the same with the stock cable which takes the composite pin. That's all I ask.

Guess what? You get no picture. Why? Because the RGB cable use the sync pin of the megadrive AV port, not the composite.

>Wait, now you're saying electromagnetism influences PIXELS as opposed to analog signals?.

I was using the word pixel so a simpleton like you could understand.

>Where did all that "pixels are no more when encoded" thing go?

Never said this, what I said is that the pixels you claimed to be interpolated with the waterfall (the one you claimed where behind it) weren't even in the framebuffer, and that all the composite signal did was mix the waterfall columns with the mountain ones.

>> No.2040964

>>2040952
>Guess what? You get no picture. Why? Because the RGB cable use the sync pin of the megadrive AV port, not the composite.

You can use both for RGB, duh. If I connect my SCART cable to a DVD recorder it takes the sync as composite, so you might even try that instead. Just be sure you connected the DVD recorder to your TV using RGB.

>(the one you claimed where behind it)

Except I never said this, I'm saying they interpolated ADJACENT pixels. What, you wanted me to use the word "adjacent"? Too bad, I thought I was clear enough. I'm sorry if I didn't use "adjacent", I take full responsibility.

>weren't even in the framebuffer, and that all the composite signal did was mix the waterfall columns with the mountain ones

This is exactly MY POINT, only that you go on telling they're mixed because of "instability", badly shielded cables and so on, while I'm saying the composite output has been INTENDED, by the very hardware engineers, to blur things out like that, so they blend patterns perfectly and developers could exploit this to cram more colors out of the system.

>> No.2040968

Holy shit shut up already.

>> No.2040989
File: 28 KB, 600x292, SCART_pinout.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2040989

>>2040964
>You can use both for RGB, duh.

Well guess what? That's actually wrong. Pic related, it's either Sync or Composite, not both. The official cable use the sync pin of the megadrive AV port, your third party cable use the composite and use it as sync.

> while I'm saying the composite output has been INTENDED, by the very hardware engineers, to blur things out like that

More like they just had to use a cheap composite encoder so the price of the console wouldn't go too high. Like you said, they fixed that issue with the 32x. What are you to take assumption like these? Are you one of the Sega engineer's friend?

Anyway, this little "argument" is starting to piss the other anons like >>2040968 (maybe he's the one who got pissed and reported your other post?).

>> No.2041000

>>2040989
>it's either Sync or Composite, not both
I'm talking about the source, see >>2040751, it uses composite as sync, because it has the same damn pulses and luma.

>your third party cable use the composite and use it as sync
Nice assumptions out of your ass. My cable uses the sync pin as syncing and that's why the individual output is different from composite, but you go on about electromagnetism and how I got the poorest shielding in the world.

>Anyway, this little "argument" is starting to piss the other anons
Who cares, you're just not sucking it up and refusing to acknowledge my compelling arguments and instead try to put your spanner in my works. I'm defending my theory and I even provided you with photographic proof. Try arguing it up like an adult and not making it look like it's personal. What did you call me again? A farmer, an ass, stupid, simpleton, need I say more?

>> No.2041002

8 hours and counting.

Jesus fucking Christ

>> No.2041010

>>2041002
It's actually 10, and all of this because this fucking guy tried to imply that the Genesis transparency effects were all on the monitor's part. Things like "the waterfall looks transparent with RGB at 1,20 meters on non professional equipment."

Thought that was crazy? Take a look at where we are now, I made him backpedal at least 4 times and now the only thing we're arguing about is static and electromagnetism. Not even that, now he's saying the ENCODER (Sony made) was cheap and thrown around the PCB at the last second to save money. This is backpedaling's galore.

>> No.2041027
File: 1.18 MB, 2304x1728, 100_0874.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041027

>>2041000
>>2041010

>Try arguing it up like an adult and not making it look like it's personal.

Say the one who's taking this discussion so seriously he's buttmad about every post that contradict him? :^)

Also, nice way to contradict yourself:
>It uses composite as a sync!
>but finaly it doesn't!
You know what? The synch pin on the AV port doesn't carry composite like you might try to imply. I tried to hook the sync to the composite input of my PVM, and guess what? No video. Thus we can understand that the sync pin doesn't carry a composite video signal.
You hooked the sync pin of your RGB cable to a composite input of your CRT and it displayed something? Congrat, now you know your cable uses the composite pin of the AV port as sync.

> because this fucking guy tried to imply that the Genesis transparency effects were all on the monitor's part.

Things I never said. I said that all this "Transparency effects don't work in RGB!" nonsense was exaggerated and that I can still have a somewhat translucent waterfall on a set that doesn't have the razor-sharp picture like BVMs. Moving the goal-post to suit your needs != making the opposition backpedaling anon. You still didn't invalidate what I said : do you see the mountains through the waterfall? Yes. Thus the waterfall is translucent. That's just logic anon.
Also, this other anon couldn't care less for what you think he just want us to stop arguing about such a ridicule subject. Too bad it will only happen when one of us will admit he's wrong, or when this thread will be pruned.

>>2041002

Don't worry, only 17 posts before we can make a new thread. Here's some CRT pics.

>> No.2041028

>>2040402
The right is a better quality image that displays all details.

I don't think there's anything particularly special about regular CRT TVs with coarse phosphors. The fine grained phosphors of BVMs and PC CRTs results in a superior image.

>> No.2041034

>>2040402
muh static

>> No.2041042

>>2041027
>It uses composite as a sync!
>but finaly it doesn't!

Oh, come on, you got what I meant. You can use both the composite pin and sync pin for horizontal syncing for RGB.

>I tried to hook the sync to the composite input of my PVM, and guess what? No video.

How did you do that? Just curious. You won't bamboozle me this easily.

>I can still have a somewhat translucent waterfall on a set that doesn't have the razor-sharp picture like BVMs

Which is using an hyperbole to the finest degree.

>> No.2041054
File: 3.14 MB, 2303x1535, 100_0638_bis.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041054

>>2041042
>How did you do that? Just curious. You won't bamboozle me this easily.

Megadrive -> RGB SCART cable -> SCART to BNC cable -> sync BNC to composite input on the PVM.

I made the cable myself, soldering the sync BNC cable to the Composite/Sync Input pin of the female SCART socket.

>> No.2041076
File: 115 KB, 800x533, 1357880157259.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041076

>>2041054
Well, if what you say is actually true, you only gave me more to work with so I can pinpoint the reason of why the composite signal from that SCART doesn't blend things seamlessly.

Without the whole shielding bullshit, of course. Because either I have the most shielded alcatraz-tier cable ever (and that's really unlikely) or something else happens and I have to find out why. These things just don't add up. I will continue investigating the issue, thank your for your not so friendly chitchat. And get wrecked.

>> No.2041082

>>2041076

At the end of the day, I have something that works, and you do not. Enjoy being the one who is wrecked. Good day, sir.

>> No.2041085
File: 530 KB, 2304x1728, 100_1131.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041085

>>2041076
>thank your for your not so friendly chitchat.

You're welcome anon. Today was pretty entertaining.

Have more color blending in RGB if you want.

>> No.2041092
File: 2.08 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20141002_224649.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041092

>> No.2041093

>>2041085
Nice focus you dunce.

>> No.2041103
File: 99 KB, 780x488, rene.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041103

If you think someone is stupid then why are you responding?

>> No.2041123
File: 3.07 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140925_231345.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041123

>> No.2041127
File: 99 KB, 350x346, Absolutely_Horrifying.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041127

>>2041123

>filters

>> No.2041131 [DELETED] 

>not playing your /vr/ in HD
w
o
w

>> No.2041138
File: 1.66 MB, 1920x1079, better_than_my_CRT.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041138

>>2041131

Yeah, truly the best way to play them.

>> No.2041141

>>2041127
Where do you see filters?

>> No.2041143

>>2041123
Looks awesome!

>> No.2041145

>>2041141

>Dat ultra-high PC monitor brightness combined with blur giving an ugly fake bloom
>Those scanlines as thick as pixels

Man, it's all over the place

>> No.2041160

>>2041145
>>Dat ultra-high PC monitor brightness combined with blur giving an ugly fake bloom

There isn't anything ugly about it. This is likely more "gut feelings" crap because it "isn't 100% authentic to muh real console" or some shit.


>>Those scanlines as thick as pixels

That comes with using superior quality CRTs. It's definitely better than the bloomy, blurry, smudged look that standard TVs give you.

>> No.2041168 [DELETED] 

>>2041160
>There isn't anything ugly about it.

Yes there is. The rendering is plainly bad. It's not about "Muh autenticity" (nice strawman by the way) it's about it being too freaking foggy instead being either sharp, either a bit blurry, like real CRT does. I'd prefer a bare-bone line-doubled emulator shot than this piece of crap of a filter.

>That comes with using superior quality CRTs.

Yeah, no. It just look like a black pixel line so you could have "Dem Scanline xD" and be proud of it on r/emulation.

>> No.2041206 [DELETED] 

>>2041168
Dude, nothing you say makes any damn sense. You're seeing things that simply aren't there. The "blur" is for simulating RGB signal bandwidth, nothing to with CRTs. You couldn't tell the difference between that and an actual analog signal with the same bandwidth when the output horizontal resolution is so high on the PC anyhow, so stop prentending you can. Everything else is 100% authentic CRT.

>. I'd prefer a bare-bone line-doubled emulator shot than this piece of crap of a filter

I really don't give a shit about what you prefer. You're not any kind of authority on what is "good" when it comes to CRTs.

>Yeah, no. It just look like a black pixel line so you could have "Dem Scanline xD" and be proud of it on r/emulation.

0/10 bait. Go look at a BVM and proven wrong. inb4 you find some imaginary differences again.

Good job, you've pissed me off with your highly autistic nitpicking.

>> No.2041224

>>2025503
These are amazing.

>> No.2041227

>>2041224

Agreed. Even when using composite, these had a better picture than most consumer grade TVs.

>> No.2041235
File: 1.21 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140921_142945.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041235

>>2041145
There's absolutely nothing wrong with how this looks. Sorry, but that's just a bunch of nitpicking. I have a standard issue shadow mask CRT TV made in the 2000s to compare it to, and I can say the monitor beats the shit out of it in most aspects when displaying a 240p or 240p-like display mode. I wish it were possible to use the monitor with my actual consoles without special hardware, but it's not, but the good thing is that it works natively for PCs so it can be used with accurate emulators for a good experience with the conviences emulation brings to the table.

There's also nothing wrong with emulator filters when they are tasteful. See: Blargg's NTSC filters.

>> No.2041247

New Thread:
>>2041240
>>2041240

>> No.2041276

>>2041235
>There's also nothing wrong with emulator filters when they are tasteful. See: Blargg's NTSC filters.

If by "tasteful" you mean trying to replicate the SNES' composite encoder as closely as possible.

>> No.2041280

>>2041276

Naah, he mean't bilinear filtering.

>> No.2041417

>>2040760
Why does this not work on the PS2, though, where it supposedly uses sync on green instead?

>> No.2041958

Figure this is the best place for advice.

I recently got my hands on a Tandy CM-5 and was wondering about using it with console games. Is it viable and if so how would I go about doing it? It came with a Tandy 1000SX for $40 but no keyboard or mouse so I'm kinda stuck with it sitting around until I manage to find one.

>> No.2041990

>>2041958
>Tandy CM-5
A short search suggests that it will only take digital rgb (CGA). Old consoles would need something capable of accepting analog RGB.

And there's a new thread
>>2041247

>> No.2042154

pls

>> No.2042476
File: 11 KB, 320x222, 320px-Multimega.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2042476

Alright so, on side I have a Triniton WEGA with composite, component and S-video.

On the other side, I have a Sega CDX with only a composite cable.

Is it possible to get a better picture than what composite Genesis can offer? I really don't know much of anything about RGB at all.

>> No.2043012

>>2042476
>Is it possible to get a better picture than what composite Genesis can offer?

Absolutely! First, you can get yourself a genesis SCART cable from ebay, along with a scart to component transcoder.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-seller-Genesis-2-32X-CDX-RGB-SCART-cable-with-boosted-sync-no-jailbars-/201206366563?pt=US_Video_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2ed8d58163

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/221156873851?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item337dfa167b

Since the converter doesn't extract audio, you'll also need one of these to get audio to your tv.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360867898326?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I use this setup myself, and it gives you an excellent picture quality (though you may need to tweak some screws in the converter to get the correct colors, and the colors tend to be messed up out-of-the-box). Even on an SD TV, the difference in clarity is amazing!

Likewise, if you don't mind waiting, a kickstarter for component cables for the Genesis and SNES just launched today. If it gets funded, you wouldn't even need a converter for consumer CRTs.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/hdretrovision/sega-genesis-and-super-nintendo-component-cables