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/vr/ - Retro Games


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File: 1.32 MB, 1030x953, crthead.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1999815 No.1999815 [Reply] [Original]

Previous thread: >>1989521
These threads are for the civil discussion of CRT displays (TVs and monitors) as used for retro video games and systems allowed by the board rules in the current sticky (>>1392415). Subtopics *directly* related to this main topic are welcome.

A few tips so we don't get our thread deleted and have better discussions:
>Try to keep it /vr/-related: no +5th gen, vidya only. Slight OT might be okay if strictly related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.)
>Check the infographic before asking anything
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend.
>Have fun and enjoy glorious cathode displays

>> No.1999827
File: 1.34 MB, 1200x5200, 1411357073837.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1999827

Tried writing a few guidelines so our threads don't get deleted and can discuss things better. I hope they aren't that bad an idea

also

>infographic

>> No.1999858
File: 550 KB, 1100x922, 213321ew.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1999858

Hey guys, i could get a "Samsung Plano" in good condition for five bucks. Good Deal?

>> No.1999865

I bought an Extron USP405 on a whim. Looks really nice for live-action and animated video, as well as high-resolution video games. Totally shits itself and dies on 240p signals, though.

It's now serving as a very nice downscaler for watching 4:3 cartoons on my bigass CRT.

>> No.1999869

>>1999858
look or ask for the model and what inputs it takes. samsung isn't the best manufacturer around when it comes to CRTs, but for 5 bucks it could be a good deal nevertheless

>> No.1999876

>>1999869

Thanks, I'm gonna do that.
I just really like the overall look of the Plano and the sound should be great. That's what I've read, at least.

>> No.1999879

>>1999876
i'll tell you this: i have a Plano, and it's a decent crt. It's got RGB through SCART input, a composite SCART input, and an RCA composite input. Sound is fine. Colors are okay, it uses a shadow mask. 5 bucks are a good price for it, i got mine for 15.

>> No.1999896

>>1999879

Sound's great. I think I'm gonna take it then. Thank's for the advice.

>> No.1999906

>>1999865
Jesus those things are expensive.
Would it be possible to use a DVD recorder for signal conversion instead?
All I need is composite and s-video to rgb.

>> No.2000072
File: 3.03 MB, 1920x1200, 41da0dc1-d597-455b-96e8-93c6808e8.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2000072

dunno if this is CRT, would like to know

>> No.2000076
File: 899 KB, 3280x2460, 100_3262.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2000076

>>2000072
>dunno if this is CRT, would like to know
It is.

>> No.2000084

>>2000076
thanks appreciate it.

>> No.2000091

>>2000072

>trinitron

Yup.

>> No.2000107

After my TV broke down, I was pretty mad that I didn't have a CRT display to play my retrogames. I had dosens of dosens of cartridges on the shelf, but I just didn't wanna pluck those old machines to my HDTV.
But then I found the Retron 5. That thing is amazing, it also saves alot of space, which is nice.

>> No.2000110

>>2000107
>But then I found the Retron 5.

Fuck off marketer shill.

>> No.2000124

>>2000091
could you explain some of the video settings, I tried to google it a week or so ago and couldn't find much

specifically the VM setting.

>> No.2000126

>>2000107
Do the mods just not care or what?

>> No.2000129

>>2000124

I dunno, the only settings I mess around are the brightness, the contrasts and the color levels. Try the 240p test suite and follow the wiki's steps, it should be a good start if you want to have the best picture out of your tube. Also, don't forget to set the color temp to 6500k.

>>2000126

For free anon...

>> No.2000132

>>2000124
>specifically the VM setting.
It's a form of edge enhancement. It darkens the edges of bright areas so they "bloom" less into adjacent dark areas. For low-resolution games just leave it off.

>> No.2000136

>>2000129
how to set color temp?

>> No.2000140
File: 834 KB, 2048x1536, DSC00905.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2000140

>>2000107
Okay, i bite.

>That thing is amazing
Wow, you sure are the same kind of people who say that these newfangled smartphones are amazing.
I have to smoke all the drugs that a dutch smokes in his entire life in one shot to actually believe that.
Really, i consider software emulation as the worst way to play a console game. Especially when it's poorly done.
I rather play my SNES games on a decent Sufamiclone which i have verified. It's better than any emulator except for Higan/BSNES as i found some mostly insignificant hardware quirks, but it still performs the same as the real thing on transistor level unlike software emulation.
>it also saves alot of space
Damn, do you live in a small apartment?

>> No.2000146

>>2000136

Check on the back of your TV the model number and try to check for the manual. If you still have it lying around, it would be better.
I never owned a very late 90s/early 00s trinitron, only late 80s and early 90s ones, so I can't help you when it comes to navigating through menus.

>> No.2000151
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2000151

>>2000146
menus are super simple
1/2

>> No.2000157
File: 2.67 MB, 2592x1944, c710dd6f-3c69-463a-86a9-bc1ad28a3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2000157

>>2000151
2/2

>> No.2000198

>>2000151
Assuming it has some sort of service menu hidden away somewhere, the color temp control would likely be in there.

>> No.2000278

>>2000140
>Damn, do you live in a small apartment?

Okay, I'll bite.

You'd have to be purposefully obtuse to pretend that one console taking the place of 4 isn't a space-saver.

>> No.2000338
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2000338

Some MOTHER FUCKER just snagged a 14 inch pvm in an auction

it was going at around 50 eur, and i didn't have any pics of the tube during operation. any more and it would have been a gamble.

the cheapest 14 inch PVM around here is 70 bucks shipped but only has RF and composite.

the cheapest decent 20 inch is 200-250 eur. There's a bunch of em in GREAT conditions but guess what? 550 bucks, PICKUP ONLY.
don't get me started on the BVMs, it's the same but much worse.

It's been a month since I've been trying to get one of those god damn fucking monitors and my patience is running dry. My Plano is okay but i can't figure out what the fuck inputs it has, and the center is getting all discolored because it's an old as fuck piece of shit i got for 15 bucks.

Oh but anon, people don't need a PVM to get good picture quality!
Well, I do. So fuck them and fuck you too.
Besides, there are NO ACTUAL DECENT CRTs around here. There's a bunch of piece of shit TVs that have been used to death, kept like shit and being sold for 150 eur. I fucking HATE this country. The only GOOD TV, an excellent and well kept trinitron at a ridiculous price is PICKUP ONLY IN THE ASS END OF FUCKING NOWHERE AND I DON'T EVEN OWN A CAR TO GO THERE EVEN IF I WANTED.
I'm seriously tempted to ask if the fucker will ship the bastard on a pallet so i can finally stop getting mad about CRTs no longer being made.
I want to win the lottery, buy an Ikegami and jack off all over it.

This shit has me MAD.

>> No.2000348

>>2000278

Okay, I'll bite

You'd have to be purposfully obtuse to buy a device with locked-down, Tivo-ized versions of emulators that don't allow you to load ROM images except off of cartridges instead of just using a small emulation PC that you can get at the same price.

>> No.2000373

>>2000348
I agree, but I wasn't arguing that.

>> No.2000389
File: 61 KB, 410x800, 1408137566674.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2000389

>>2000338
Your time will come.

>win the lottery
>fill house with stacks of PVMs
Maybe even a circle that you can sit in the middle of.

>> No.2000407
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2000407

>>2000389
i'd probably do something like this, or put 3 one along the other and play darius

>> No.2000689

In the 300-400 range, what's my best option for NES through PS1 games?

>> No.2000692

>>2000689
With that much of a budget a 20L5.
15kHz to 31.5 kHz to cover 480p PS2 games also.

>> No.2000708

>>2000692
L5 series syncs to 45Khz, so you're good to 720p/1080i

>> No.2000717
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2000717

>>1999906
>composite and s-video to rgb

what version of RGB do you want?

RGB SCART

RGBHV (VGA)

RGBS (RGB with composite sync)

RGsB (RGB with sync on green)

and for what monitor?

>> No.2000732

>>2000717

RGB SCART is RGBS but with full composite video instead of simple composite sync, right?

>> No.2000740

>>2000708
God my dick I need one

>> No.2000741

>>2000740
I was thinking the same thing

>> No.2000801

>>2000692
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-PVM-20L5-w-SDI-module-/201192046942?

This the one?

>> No.2000803

>>2000801
Yeah, that'll handle most of anything you throw at it.

Anything labeled "Multiformat" on a Sony monitor handles all the common broadcast resolutions, so 480i/P, 720i/P, and 1080i. Does 240P also, though that's not really a standard resolution, just a bastardization of 480i.

>> No.2000805
File: 2.13 MB, 3264x2448, my setup so far.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2000805

>>2000732
i'm not a scart user so i'm not sure.

what i'm doing right now is using an older DVDO unit to convert Component (YPbPr), S-Video, and composite to RGBHV.

then I'm using a 203 rxi to convert that to RGBS and then display all that on my PVM.

works great no lag. (sub 1ms if I chose to de-interlace 480i sources)

this setup also expands my inputs

10 composite
8 S-video
7 RGB
5 Component (YPbPr)
3 VGA
4 HDMI

I can basically hook up every system ever made. and play every game ever made at any resolution (240p to 1080i)

now I just need time to play games...

(also how do I organize all my cables, looks a little cluttered behind the crt)

>> No.2000807

>>2000803
I feel ignorant, I really need to do some research into monitors in general.

Thanks for the info though, I think I'm gonna message that guy and see if he's willing to ship across the states.

>> No.2000808

I just want to cry... really, I do. My only option for getting a CRT is from ebay, and I've had no luck.

I'm looking for something that's 480p support to accommodate my gc/ps2/wii in addition to my retro stuff, so I've been hunting for a PVM-20L5.

>See a PVM-20L5 at $50 starting bid, with 50 shipping and 30 import fees
>not bad
>wait till the last day and start bid war
>data plan dies during the last 20 seconds and I get outbid

I was really fucking mad that day. I even bought another PVM 20L5 at ebay.com (I'm in Canada) and told the guy that I just do not give a shit about the shipping charges and told him to please find it out and ship it, and he ended up saying it was too difficult to find and told me to cancel the purchase.

I realized the Panasonic BT-H1700p was also a hq RGB broadcast monitor with 480p support so I actually found one on ebay for $200 and INSTANTLY BOUGHT IT cause I didn't care anymore but the guy later told me it didn't work so he refunded me everything.

Why is this so difficult /vr/...

>> No.2000810

>>2000808
>>data plan dies during the last 20 seconds and I get outbid
Do you not understand how eBay works?

>> No.2000812

>>2000810

What do you mean?

>> No.2000813

>>2000812
Just put the maximum amount you'd be willing to pay and don't try to snipe. Then you'll never be disappointed.

Otherwise you'll get caught up in the competition and end up spending more than you want to.

>> No.2000817
File: 2.98 MB, 3264x2448, 240p on L5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2000817

>>2000805
and 240p looks great on it.

>> No.2000819

>>2000812
You're supposed to enter a "maximum bid", i.e. the most you're willing to pay. If it gets outbid, find another item.

>> No.2000825
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2000825

>>2000813
>>2000819

Yeah I see what you mean... I just realized. The whole automatic bid shit? Fuck my BUTT I would have won if I set a higher bid and I was willing to go higher than it's final price.

>> No.2000879
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2000879

>>2000805
>>2000817

closer look

>> No.2000881
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2000881

>>2000879

>> No.2000882
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2000882

>>2000881

>> No.2000983

>>2000813
>don't try to snipe.

Nice try, Herschel. Never do anything BUT snipe with your max bid. If you don't win, there's no frustration. Just "eh, someone wanted it more than me."

>> No.2000994

>>2000983
That's dumb, just set your max bid and forget about it. Way less frustration. In my opinion, anyway.

>> No.2001004

if you download the picture, you don't see the moiré effect.

>> No.2001017

>>2000278
If you already have those four consoles, sure it would save space to throw them out and pick up a Shitron5. But why would you willingly trade actual hardware for Android emulators?
Yes, the Retron5 is an Android box running emulators.

>> No.2001020

>>2001017
If people who are interested in the Retron have taught me anything, it is that the average gamer lives in a closet.

>> No.2001097
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2001097

Is this a good CRT monitor? SyncMaster 500S

>> No.2001117

Question here:
Why is it that LCD monitors playing emulators or the real console have this kind of jerky scrolling?

When I play consoles on a CRT the scrolling in games seems incredibly smooth and fluent.

>> No.2001128

>>2001097
It's kinda meh. Only goes up to 1024x768@60Hz from the looks of it. 15" monitors are rarely powerhouse monitors. Even my 17" Diamondtron is small potatoes compared to its 19" and 21" brethren.

Still, it should work well for emulation.

>> No.2001129

>>2001117
It's because the internal scaler can't keep up with the video flow.

Composite scalers in modern LCDs tend to be utter garbage anyway.

>> No.2001148

>>2001129
My TV has one of the better performing scalers with no noticeable lag.
Also HDMI at native res with retroarch handling the scaling (high end machine) makes no diff.

I'm beginning to think CRT phosphors have an inherent blurring effect which smooths it.

>> No.2001156

>>2001148
Every HDTV is going to have some inherent lag, especially with it's own composite scaler.

CRT Phosphors do have inherent blurring, however that's got nothing to do with the "Choppy scrolling" issue you see on HDTVs with other consoles. It's the result of the scaler not being able to process the fast motion quickly enough. Plus, the phosphor blur on a P22/SMPTE-C tube isn't going to be any worse than the pixel response time of the LCD panel.

>> No.2001171
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2001171

>>2001117
>>2001148
I'm no good with technical explanations, but it has to do with the way LCDs display images.

Where an image on a CRT flickers/strobes between displayed frames, an LCD "samples and holds" going immediately from one frame to the other. Black frame insertion with emulators and monitors with lightboost(which applies a strobing effect using the backlight) are ways to get around this jerkiness.

>> No.2001420
File: 2.47 MB, 1600x2133, nec.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001420

So, how do I go about playing games on emulators from my computer hooked up through VGA on this? I know they have special video cards for getting an accurate image with scanlines and everything, but I don't want to buy one of those...Is there another way?

>> No.2001432

>>2001420
You bastard, I've been searching high and low for a larger NEC/Mitsubishi monitor like you have there.

You don't need a special anything. Just plug in a VGA cable and you're good to go. I think it supports up to 1280x1024 but i wouldn't push it beyond 800x600 for good measure.

>> No.2001445

>>2001432

I don't get scanlines through VGA, which is really all I'm after as far as that goes...I'm waiting for my remote I ordered to get here because the image through VGA doesn't fill the screen (whoever had it last obviously adjusted it that way for some reason) and I need the remote to adjust that...Not sure if maybe the scanline issue is something that I can fix with the remote or not since you and somebody else have both told me that it should already have them without doing anything fancy.

I've had this for a few months now (posted about it here when I got it...stumbled upon it by chance at Goodwill for $1)...I just haven't really had the chance to really mess with it because I wanted to get a remote to fix that before proceeding and didn't want to pay $30 for one...Finally got one on eBay for $20, which is still more than I wanted to pay, but I figured that I wasn't going to get one for any less.

>> No.2001449

>>2001445

If you really want scanlines, you'll need to get a 240p signal into that monitor. I believe it should handle it, so put time researching into how to get a 240p signal out of your computer or console.

I know with a lot of ATI cards, it's a matter of a simple driver hack. I don't have any firsthand experience though, so you should spend some time googling that.

480p on a display that big should look a bit scanliney, but i've never seen one so I dunno.

Scanlines are a byproduct of a low-resolution video signal. There is no "Scanline" setting you can adjust, scanlines are actually unlit lines of phosphor on the screen, since there is no video data there. Scanlines are nothing more than a video artifact. You have to put in the right signal to see them.

>> No.2001454

>>2001445
>I don't get scanlines through VGA, which is really all I'm after as far as that goes.
Because you're displaying at high resolutions; You really only get prominent scanlines on 240p and the like.

Mind posting some pictures of it in action when you get the chance?

>> No.2001456

>>2001449
Or he could just insert scanlines through whatever emulator he's using.

>> No.2001473

>>2001454

I'll post on Tuesday after I get my remote and adjust the picture size/position...I don't have any retro consoles at the moment.

>> No.2001490

>>2001473
That works.

>> No.2001493
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2001493

>there's a 250$ shipped bvm
>20 inch
>looks decently used
>not from a TV station mixing room apparently

i'm gonna keep an eye on ya, you bastard

just you wait

>> No.2001502
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2001502

>>2000983
literally the same result as just placing the bid when you see the item

>> No.2001506
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2001506

>> No.2001513

>>2001502
not him, but there's a reason for sniping. Not many people put in their max bid when offering for an item, and just put int base price + 1 or 2 dollars, and then leave the auction be.

If you outbid them before the auction ends, they may realize they're no longest the highest bidder and offer again. If you snipe with your max bid, people don't have enough time to outbid you. They may not even realize it.

Keep in mind most people on ebay like to snipe, so bidding before time is not really recommended because some jackass can outbid you for 1 dollar and get your item. I'd rather lose 1-5 dollars more and actually get my shit rather than just input whatever i think it's worth 3 days before and watch retards go to town on the auction.

>> No.2001518

>>2000717
15kHz RGB.
I want to connect all my consoles and stuff that don't have the proper output or which I don't own a cable for to an Amiga monitor.
From what I understand at least some Sony RDR devices should be able to achieve that, but I'm not entirely sure.

>> No.2001519

>>2001518
don't all 240p game systems have RGB output?

what are you trying to hook up?

>> No.2001528

>>2001519
NES doesn't. Neither do a lot of older cheap home computers. And not a single VHS VCR on the face of the fucking planet has RGB output either.

>> No.2001534
File: 780 KB, 845x634, UNES2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001534

>>2001528
>NES doesn't.

it can be modified to output RGB or component.

> And not a single VHS VCR on the face of the fucking planet

Some Professional tape decks did

>>1999073
>>1999075

what inputs does your Amiga monitor have?

15-pin VGA connector?

>> No.2001539

>>2001534
9-pin RGB. Both analog and digital.

>> No.2001541

>>2001539
Also, modding an NES for RGB output is a lot harder than even outright making a signal converter.

>> No.2001545

>>2001513
>so bidding before time is not really recommended because some jackass can outbid you for 1 dollar and get your item
That's why you put in your maximum bid when it asks for your maximum bid.

>rather lose 1-5 dollars more
So just enter that in your bid. You understand you don't pay your maximum bid, right? You pay one increment more than the second-highest bid.

>rather than just input whatever i think it's worth 3 days before
Why would your valuation of the item change in 3 days?

Again, there is literally no difference here. Consider what you are willing to pay. Put that number into eBay when you have decided. This isn't difficult.

>> No.2001546

>>2001502
It's always hilarious to see idiots trying to "snipe" auctions at the last minute.

>enter my bid like 5 days before close
>come back after I've won it
>see some dolt frantically entering a half dozen different bids in the last minute of the auction
lel

>> No.2001547

>>2001545
what i'm saying is that you have to take into account how people think ebay works and how they behave because of it when bidding. I'm not going to be the dumbass raising amounts of 1$ when the auction is ending like a fucking retard, but people are going to do that kind of shit, and i've seen buyers bid, watch their auction until a few hours/minutes before the thing ends and then stop, at which point you go in and bid whatever the fuck you want.

I'm not saying "hurr bid 30 seconds before bidding ends like a fucking retard" but don't bid 3 days before the thing ends, try to do it 30 minutes before or some shit

>> No.2001549

>>2001547
>but don't bid 3 days before the thing ends, try to do it 30 minutes before or some shit
There's no difference. I enter my maximum bid, and either:
1. I win the auction for some amount equal to or less than my maximum bid
2. I lose the auction for a price I wasn't willing to pay

eBay doesn't actually perform any "bidding" until the auction closes. They then sort the bids by value, pick the second-highest, and add one increment to it.

>> No.2001553

>>2001549
Yeah, i know how it works. I've been using ebay for quite a while now.
Maybe i'm wrong, but it gives me some peace of mind waiting before making my move.
Plus, outbidding somebody when there's little time left will make him less likely for him to come back and start offering smaller amounts making the price of the item go higher. You may win the auction in both cases, but there's a chance you may get to spend less.

>> No.2001558

>>2001549
There is a difference, because early bidding makes people think the item is more valuable. The only correct strategy for eBay is to decide your maximum price as soon as you see it, and then snipe with that price.

>> No.2001569
File: 77 KB, 1600x357, iscan_b.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001569

>>2001539
>9-pin RGB

can you hook that up to a modern pc? (VGA?)

VCR to VGA is easy

>> No.2001572

>>2001569
Maybe with special drivers but not normally.
It's 15kHz RGB, which is the same as normal TV via SCART.
Could hook up a really old CGA PC to it though if I switch it over to Digital mode, but that's not really of any use here.

>> No.2001574

>>2001518
>>2001528
>>2001539

I Bet Fudoh of shumps and hazard city could help you.

just email him, he lives for this stuff.

>> No.2001580
File: 22 KB, 394x295, SBB92H.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001580

>>2001572
could you just use a 9-pin to Scart cable then?

>> No.2001584

>>2001580
For things that natively output 15kHz RGB, yes.
But that's the issue. Things like the NES and VHS VCR don't natively output such signals.
I could use one of those ridiculously expensive and hard to find signal processors. But I was wondering if there were cheaper options available.
From what I understand Sony DVD recorders convert all inputted signals to RGB, so I should be able to use one of those for signal conversion, since I don't need any sort of scaling or scanline stuff. However, I haven't found any forum posts or anything of people doing this, so I would like to know if it actually is possible or have I managed to misunderstand how the devices in question work?

>> No.2001590

>>2001584
it might convert things to RGB but I bet it scales them to 480p as well.

do you know the model of this device?

>> No.2001594

>>2001584

what would happen if you connected the NES and VCR to it?

>> No.2001601

>>2001590
RDR-HXD770 is one I've been looking at. However, afaik pretty much all of them function the same.
I don't mind a bit of scaling.
>>2001594
If I connect them to my monitor? I get black and white signal if I connect the composite wire from an NES to the analog RGB pins.
There's no actual composite input, and if I just connect to CSync then I get no signal.

>> No.2001602

>>2001601
>I don't mind a bit of scaling.

but can that display handle a 31khz signal?

>> No.2001603

Hey guys, I have a question.

I'd like to plug my Wii/Xbox/Ps2/Dreamcast into my CRT PC monitor. It does 480p, the problem is plugging the consoles into it.

Is there such a thing as a cheap component to VGA converter? I looked but all the stuff I saw was expensive. I know this isn't strictly /vr/, but I could use your help with this. Cheers.

>> No.2001605

>>2001602
No idea. It does handle all the usual Amiga modes and CGA.

>> No.2001608

>>2001603
>Is there such a thing as a cheap component to VGA converter? I looked but all the stuff I saw was expensive. I know this isn't strictly /vr/, but I could use your help with this. Cheers.
They're all going to be relatively expensive, because they need to buffer and scale the input in some way.

>> No.2001610
File: 125 KB, 1822x898, IMG_9564.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001610

>>2001603
I see good deals on dvdo iscans all the time on ebay

like this one>>2001569


or the older one in my pic.

they even do de-interlining and bump all 480i content to 480p (or higher)

>> No.2001616

This question is silly, but does smoking near a CRT damage it in any way?

>> No.2001617

>>2001610
No ebay around here.

>> No.2001618
File: 91 KB, 1000x800, SW-4559.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001618

>>2001605
>>2001608
>>2001610

I got mine for $50 (+s&h) and works great for my Mitsubishi pc monitor.

(pic related)

just look for good deal on one.

>> No.2001620

>>2001616
Might wanna clean it every once in a while.
There's this brown, thick stuff that appears in there after a while if you smoke near it.
But if it doesn't light on fire then no, there hasn't been any permanent damage yet.

>> No.2001623

>>2001617
eBay is world wide, is it forbidden in your country?

>> No.2001624

>>2001623
To be more exact, no local ebay. And I don't like ordering stuff from foreign countries.

>> No.2001626

>>2001616
it makes them pretty gross inside, maybe get an air filter, or you know... quit smoking?

(live longer and play vidya)

>> No.2001629
File: 374 KB, 971x843, yo.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001629

>>2001624
well then you have to find something locally.

this guy has a good list of all the different models to look for.

>> No.2001634

>>2001629
I've seen only a couple of those being sold locally over the years. Both times they went for just ridiculous prices.
That's why I'm looking for an alternative.

>> No.2001635

>>2001605
you need to find out what ranges you monitor accepts, that Sony device might be useless to you.

you might just want to get a different monitor or TV set, if you can.

>> No.2001637

>>2001634
he has a list of cheaper one's if you look.

>> No.2001639
File: 163 KB, 1123x574, look.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001639

>>2001603
>>2001635

did you check this one?

>> No.2001642
File: 256 KB, 1229x747, look2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001642

>>2001584
>>2001518

have you seen this?

>> No.2001645

>>2001620

Basically the shit you get in your lungs when you smoke.

>>2001626

I'm not a regular smoker anyway, sometimes I invite friends and they sometimes smoke though. Sometimes I smoke when I'm bored and feel like breathing in the stick of death.

>> No.2001648

>>2001642
That thing costs over a hundred euros, plus shipping and taxes etc. For that price I'm better off just getting another monitor with the proper inputs.

>> No.2001649

>>2001648
well, you never know maybe you can find a used one, or a cheaper clone of it.

>> No.2001651
File: 74 KB, 807x605, 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001651

More CRTs!

>> No.2001657

>>2001651

Nice Commodore monitor.

>> No.2001658
File: 470 KB, 1280x956, IMG_0866.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001658

>>2001648
Yeah, better to find a cheep TV that has Compost and S-video, use that Amiga for other stuff.

>> No.2001659

>>2001651
kx-27ps1.

Would you happen to have any more photo's of it in a standard setting, non tate?
Also what condition is it in? They're quite rare monitors to find, not to mention even rarer to find in a pristine condition

>> No.2001662
File: 230 KB, 1272x1125, ProfeelGroup.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001662

>>2001651
>>2001659

whats the point of the window on the front of the pro-feel monitors?

>> No.2001686
File: 148 KB, 1546x1404, 1910.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001686

Picked up this PVM-1910 yesterday off of craigslist. Seller was asking $79, but I talked him down to $65. This is the first 20"/19" PVM I ever picked up, and I gotta say the price was right on this one.
The seller worked building TV studios and when they close he buys out their monitors and sells them for good prices locally. I walked into his garage and nearly died because he had like 3 stacked 20" PVMs as well as several 14" PVMs. Asked about some of his newer 20" PVMs and he was only asking $150 which is way cheaper than I'll ever find on eBay. He even had a 20L5 but that was out of my price range for now. He says he constantly gets new monitors in and I basically got my deal because mine was the last of the bunch and he needed room for the more he has on the way. It's good to know I have a local supplier and can contact him first when looking for monitors.

>> No.2001687

>>2001659
Tah-tay or bust

>> No.2001689

>>2001639
That would be ideal. Problem is I'm in the UK so shipping it over may cost a bit. Even still, that may be a good option.

>>2001610
That looks a fair bit out of my price range to be honest. The most I'm willing to spend is £30, ideally £20.

>>2001608
I'm just looking for something very basic, for something that can convert the signal without applying any alterations.

>> No.2001693

>>2001686
Nice get!

Lucky getting that hookup, how much did he want for the 20l5?

>> No.2001694

>>2001662
the tinted contrast filter glass?
80's tubes are generally a light gray so lots of monitors and tvs (not just sony) used tinted glass (or plastic - thanks commodore) to try and get the blacks, well, blacker.

i think later tubes just tinted the tube glass itself, or fused a tinted layer over the tube

>> No.2001698

>>2001694
oh, and to add to that, a flat surface is probably easier to manage glare from your surroundings.

and possibly easier to clean too?

>> No.2001701

>>2001694
Some tubes, noticeably Sony's, actually use a black phosphor so the screen actually is very dark. This gives them very good contrast ratios.

>>2001686
Damn son. What area is this guy located in? I'd like to pay him a visit.

I'd snatch up an L5 as soon as you can, they are excellent monitors. The PVM-1910 series is a bit dated and not a very high resolution tube, but should still be a solid performer for general gaming.

>> No.2001703

>>2001694
Ah, that makes sense.

>> No.2001710
File: 365 KB, 1632x1224, 1910-parappa.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001710

As far as the monitor itself.
It apparently has low hours on it as it was taken from a medical classroom and only saw minimal hours a few days a week vs. being on 24/7 in a TV studio.
There's a bit of a halo effect on light images over a black background, and a minor green tint when the image is black or white. I found that I can minimize the green tint on black images if I just lower the brightness and raise the contrast. These problems though aren't a big deal or even noticeable when you look at actual gameplay. Every monitor is going to have some kind of issue when looking at test images.
I need to adjust the geometry a bit but I'll have to open it up and adjust the pots for that as this has no menu of any kind since it is a much older model. Hopefully I can find a service manual on this or a similar model.
Monitor only takes RGB and composite. No svideo or component.
Convergence on the edges is kind of weak but everything towards the center is good.
Considering this was cheaper than some of the 14" PVMs I've gotten in the past I'd say it was a good find.

>>2001693
He said it would be somewhere over $200 for the 20L5. I gave him my contact information so he'll contact me when he gets L5's in.

>>2001701
Moorestown, New Jersey
http://bibbteck.com/
He often gets people coming in and half of the stuff was on hold already.

>> No.2001713

>>2001701
The 1910 has 900 lines of resolution from what I've read.

That sounds good (my L5 is 800 tvl)

>> No.2001716
File: 827 KB, 1632x1224, 1910_cool2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001716

Gonna have to get some more pictures after work.

>> No.2001719

>>2001713
Where are you getting this info?
I've got PDF's of brochures stating that the PVM-1910 only has a 350TVL tube.

>> No.2001720

>>2001710
>>2001716

Kick, punch it's all in the mind!

>> No.2001726

>>2001719
This website,

http://www.ampronix.com/content/web/sony_pvm1910.asp

>> No.2001731

>>2001558
this.

this this and this.


now stfu and get back on topic

>> No.2001741
File: 749 KB, 1632x1224, 1910_coolrap2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001741

>>2001726
That's weird because I've also read 350TVL.
>Y/R Y/B-Y inputs
I'll have to confirm that mine takes component. The seller specifically said it only takes RGB.
>Allows onscreen adjustments
I definitely do not have any kind of OSD on mine. It's all knobs and buttons.

Here's the operating manual:
https://docs.sony.com/release/PVM1910.PDF

>> No.2001751

>>2001741
Could just be a missprint, perhaps it's talking about the bvm-19xx series?

>> No.2001758

What's the most any of you would pay for a BVM-20F1U? I have an offer right now but don't know how much to spend. I've been searching for one for so long.

>> No.2001763

>>2001751
Somehow I doubt it. Both PVMs and BVMs from that era did not have any sort of OSD, and even the ProFeel line of monitors, meant to be the best available at the time, only went to 500TVL.

>> No.2001768

>>2001758
I was going to pay 150, but it did not have the control box or connection cable

So I got something else instead.

is this one complete?

>> No.2001773

>>2001741
Bet you could convert component to rgb, and do it that way

Could you get s-video on that vrt port?

And what is the computer port good for?

>> No.2001779

>>2001768
yea its complete, also is this good not only for retro gen systems but are 264/ps1 era and xb/ps2/gc good on it also?

Thanks

>> No.2001781

>>2001773
The computer port is a 25pin dsub. I believe it can carry RGB over it.

>> No.2001789

>>2001781

Could you hook it to a PC?

>> No.2001791

my crt imploded help

>> No.2001792

>>2001791
pics pls

>> No.2001846
File: 17 KB, 300x300, U12-40594_chiclet01_ac_mn_4662513.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001846

So let's say I put RGB into one monitor.
Then use one of these component cables to output the RGB to another monitor.
Is this possible? As far as sync I'd try internal sync on the last monitor.

>> No.2001858

>>2001846
Form your 1910 to what?

>> No.2001865
File: 483 KB, 1632x1224, 14M2U_SMPTE.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001865

>>2001858
To any of my other PVMs.
Can a male to male component cable carry an RGB signal?

>> No.2001869

>>2001865
Only if its RGsB I think,

See
>>2000717

>> No.2001878

>>2001865
Yes, but only the RGB signal. You run out of plugs for anything else. So it's either Sync-on-Green or no sync at all.

>> No.2001881

>>2000072
Would you feel comfortable attempting to lift it without health insurance?

>> No.2001891

Anybody make their own cables?

>> No.2001896
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2001896

>>2001891

I do.

>> No.2001898

>>2001891
Sometimes. Mostly simple cables that can't really be bought such as 23 to 9 pin video cables and the occasional adapter such as mini-din s-video to separate bnc plugs.

>> No.2001907

>>2001891
I usually buy if I need a common one, but I'll hack together custom cables if I need one that's not available otherwise.

>> No.2001914
File: 811 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01083.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2001914

>>2001891
Of course, anon.
Everyone who can solder makes their one cables so that they don't have to buy expensive ones.
I just salvaged the Nintendo MulitAV plug from an crappy cable and soldered good shielded ones to a box where i can switch the 75ohms resistors to ground and the AC coupling capacitors for each video line and S-Video or RGB over SCART and the RGB blanking voltage.
Should be compatible with every Nintendo system ever made that has this connector.

>> No.2001990

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tlxPkoMW7Q

Fuck I am getting bamboozled.

>> No.2002004

>>2001990

Oh fuck oh man oh fuck! The level of retardation here is just unbearable.
>tfw you can clearly hear that' he's french thanks to his shitty accent.
Oh fuck guys, I'm so sorry for this disgrace to humanity. ;_;

>> No.2002027

>>2002004
I was watching videos of old RCA sets and this idiot comments on it
>just smash it already
Then I found his channel.
Just the thumbnail of him smiling with that hammer works me so hard.

>> No.2002074
File: 1.28 MB, 1536x2048, 20141012_172845.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2002074

Not sure if this pic shows it well or not, but the top part (especially the top-left) of my Sony KV-20FS100 has serious color bleed on bright red (or any colors that require red). I wonder if it's a convergence issue or not, since the other colors don't have this issue. If it is, is there any way to fix it without breaking the bank or opening the crt myself (thus risking electrocution, since I have zero experience doing so)?

>> No.2002076
File: 1.21 MB, 1536x2048, 20141012_172815.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2002076

>>2002074
For reference, here's what the picture is like with the color turned down.

>> No.2002145

>>2001878
>You run out of plugs for anything else. So it's either Sync-on-Green or no sync at all.
Or, you grab a single RCA cable and use that alongside it for sync.

>> No.2002157
File: 650 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01086.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2002157

It could feel nice when someone brings you a TV to repair, but unfortunately it's a godforsaken LCD TV UE46C6820US.
They managed to rip off the special Samsung "S-RGB in" connector needed for the SCART adapter and the pads on the board are undamaged, i think i can solder that piece of 0.5mm pitched garbage back.
Damn it's more fragile than SCART itself, they broke after decades and this piece of an "superior" TV broke off after 4 years

I just noticed something:
It's rated at 150W, my CRTs KV-C2521D (pic related) is rated at 96W and KV-M1400D at 48W.
Now i really want to punch people right in their face when say that CRTs have deadly voltage everywhere in every corner; have the highest power consumption; have the worst picture quality.
All of that isn't true at all unless you're doing it wrong.

>>2002074
>Not sure if this pic shows it well or not
Not really. The test grid of the 240p Test Suite kinda sucks when you have that red part and when it's quite thick.
If you emulate or have an SNES with a flashcart then you could try to find the SNES Test Program (U) and go to COLOR TEST, it has a pure white and thin grid with and a separate dot pattern.

>If it is, is there any way to fix it without breaking the bank or opening the crt myself
Nope.

>> No.2002173

>>2001914
that's cool man, nice.

>> No.2002182
File: 641 KB, 2048x1536, DSC00256.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2002182

>>2002173
Oh, yeah. I forgot to mention the RCA jacks and the S-Video connector. This allows the use of all video lines but only on my SNES and my RGB capable N64.
This pic is old, i noticed it way to late that i mounted the SCART socket in the wrong way but corrected that later.

>> No.2002206

>>2002182
That box cause any signal degradation?

>> No.2002213

>>2000338


Find. A. Surplus. Auction. University, military, or government.

Or medical surplus supplier. Or security company. Or old video production company. Or all of the above.

There are more avenues to finding these things than craigslist and ebay. Emails won't work. You need to actually call these places and ask what they've got.

>> No.2002219

>>2001420
You got very lucky to get that monitor, is is the Cadillac of CRTs.

You don't need a special video card, it's likely if you have a desktop PC with a dedicated graphics card you already have all you need.

>> No.2002241

>>2002219
>it's likely if you have a desktop PC with a dedicated graphics card you already have all you need.
Even Intel's graphics systems can output 240p.

>> No.2002252
File: 660 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01087.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2002252

>>2002206
None at all.
The older version had some very slight chroma interference (in the Y and RGB lines) because some short interconnected wires weren't shielded and i only saw it on my USB capture cards.
The newer version is a very tight fit, as i replaced all the video lines with shielded wires and the interference is now so weak that i have to use a sharpen filter to make them visible.
The only thing i consider to do is to remove the S-Video over SCART feature as the DPDT switch for this doesn't have a great closed resistance and i think that i can't fit a bigger and better one in it's place. Sometimes it just doesn't have a great contact and i have to wiggle it.

On the backside is a chart showing how to set the switches for each system and does not include rare systems with this connector like some NES-101 units or the french NES-001 with it's internal PAL composite->RGB converter.

>> No.2002256

>>2002252
Drakkon pls go

>> No.2002282

>>2002256
Yeahhhhh that's pretty shoddy work.

>> No.2002309

How is Ikegami compared to other professional monitors? There's a guy on CL selling one. The Ikegami TM14-20R. Don't know how much I should offer him for it.

>> No.2002332

>>2002309

Excellent quality, one of the best CRT manufacturers in the world. That's probably a SD set, so no 480P, but a very good performer nonetheless.

>> No.2002364

>>1999815
hey yall quick question is there going to be any lag input/ other issues I might have to deal with if getting an adaptor for a crt monitor? you guys don't seem to have a problem with it, but I'm unexperienced and don't want tio buy something thats gonna fuck up emmedietly

>> No.2002378

>>2002364
>adapter
no, it's the same wires in a different shape. If you're concerned, get decent adapters and decent cables (gold-plated adapters, shielded cables with distance between each wire)

input lag won't be an issue either way but you won't deal with any other problems altogether

>source: i play IIDX every fucking day on my plano because i'm a fucking retard and would have noticed even a 0.1 ms delay since the timing is so precise

>> No.2002432
File: 71 KB, 1024x768, $_86.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2002432

Whats this? Is it good? Its going for free

>> No.2002437

>>2002432

Some huge trinitron. Probably going to be HD which doesn't bode well.

>> No.2002442

>>2002432
>complaining about free shit
that thing will be great for 6th gen+ but not much for retro shit.

Most trinitrons like that take RGB and composite, i've yet to see one with component, but they do exist.

>> No.2002443

>>2002432
>>2002432
For older games, it's not going to be great.
For anything 6th gen and up, or for general TV watching, widescreen CRTs are the shit.
If you have room for it, get it.

>> No.2002448

>>2002442
That should take component, looks new enough to possibly have DVI or HDMI as well

>> No.2002453

>>2002437
>>2002442
>>2002443
It was for n64 etc so thanks for the tips. Its free but Id have to get help picking it up so ill give it a miss.

thanks /vr/

>> No.2002493

>>2002448
I see a british power plug.
Probably it's has SCART and possibly a VGA port for >15khz signals but i don't think it has anything newer than that.

>> No.2002505

>>2002252
Why not just shield the box instead of the cables inside?

>> No.2002517

>>2002505
Because it's the cables inside that he doesn't want interfering with each other.

>> No.2002519

>>2002493
yuropoor here

most EU CRTs didn't have that kind of inputs, the bastards only came with 2 or 3 SCART inputs that took in RGB and composite, sometimes S-Video, RF and composite. So don't get your hopes up too much when it comes to european tvs

>> No.2002538

>>2002505
Because i fucked that part up, why i didn't bought metallic cases.
I bought a bunch of plastic cases not considering how this factor and used them if i needed a enclosure.
I hate it to be related to my dad.
That fucker made some flashlights based on super bright LEDs and a battery adapter that can hold 4 AAA batteries and connects them in series. Now i noticed that it gets very hot and i decided to measure the current at 6V (1,5V*4=6V) and that single LED drew fucking 1,5A.
No wonder why the old batteries leaked. 4,5V is fine with like 600mA and it's just as bright and not so hot as with 4 batteries.

>>2002517
And this. It actually happened with simple wires if you read that post.

>>2002519
I know but i saw a silver Trinitron in Germany with VGA in about 2002-2004.
It belonged to the son of my dad's boss and the little dipshit scratched the whole thing up with some metal.
Dad tried to polish the CRT and was not successful.

>> No.2002548

>>2002538
i fucking hope that little shit got a little trip to the ovens for runing a perfectly good trinitron

>> No.2002628

I just got a PVM 8041Q and it wont power on. It makes a short buzzing noise when I turn on the power and the power light lights up for a second and then nothing. How would I got about fixing this?

>> No.2002631

>>2002628
You have a video source connected?
When you turn on a PVM-8041Q, it will degauss (The buzz) and the tally lamp (What you're calling the power light) will come on for a second.

If there is no video source connected, it will seem as if it isn't working. The tube just doesn't display any no signal screen/osd/whatever. Caught me when i first got mine

>> No.2002632

>>2002631
this

if you have the brightness knob, turn it all to the right, it should show an all-white image.

>> No.2002635

I heard from a friend that running old vidya on CRT monitors isn't a good idea because of the differences in refresh rate or somethig like that. He also told me that monitors only accept progressive signals and a majority of 6th gen games are interlaced so that would be another problem.

Is he right or does he have no idea what he's talking about?

>> No.2002640

>>2002635
>old vidya on CRT monitors isn't a good idea because of the differences in refresh rate or somethig like that
u wot m8

>He also told me that monitors only accept progressive signals and a majority of 6th gen games are interlaced so that would be another problem.

depends on the monitors, i think he's talking computer CRTs since those accept progressive scan and not 15khz

>> No.2002648
File: 20 KB, 471x480, thisshit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2002648

>>2002635
Yeah your friend probably doesn't know a CRT from a hole in the ground.

>old vidya on CRT monitors isn't a good idea
Uhh, what the hell do you think they were played on originally? Hologram displays?

>> No.2002651

>>2002635

>Differences in refresh rate
I've not got a clue what he means by this. But...
>Monitors only accept progressive signals
Seems to shed some light on this. He seems to be referring to the fact that most CRT TVs only accept 15KHz horizontal sync (480i and 240p) while most PC CRT monitors only accept 31KHz (480p) and above horizontal sync.

>> No.2002652

>>2002631
I don't really have anything that will hook up to it. Most of my consoles have RCA cables so I need to buy new cables. I guess I won't know if it works or not until I get them.

>> No.2002661
File: 9 KB, 240x240, rca to bnc.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2002661

>>2002652
Get a pack of RCA to BNC adapters. If you're going to be using professional monitors for vidya it's a good idea to keep several around, they're really handy for actually using the things.

A 5 pack is like 7 or 8 bucks on Amazon.

You don't have anything that uses S-video, anon?

>> No.2002670

>>2002640
>>2002648
Yeah I meant computer crt monitors, whoops. There's a Salvation Army by my place and they have a bunch of computer crts, if i check the back for specs/whatever will it say its khz and what resolution it supports?

>> No.2002671

>>2002661
I FUCKNG FORGOT TO PUT THAT IN THE FUCKING OP PASTA JESUS

goddamit if nobody's gonna add it to the infographic i'll do it

>> No.2002676

>>2002661
I don't have even one s-video cable.

I'll just order the adapters.

>> No.2002680

>>2002670
computer crts usually take in VGA signals, resolution depends on the model.
Vidcons won't work on it, with the exception of VGA moddable consoles like the dreamcast or non/vr/. Get one for cheap and play glorious 4:3 old school games on em or emulate the shit out of everything in native resolution

>> No.2002684

>>2002670
Ah, computer monitors yeah. It depends on personal preference, i'd still probably play retro vidya on a normal VGA display, after being put through a line doubler. Of course, older PC Games are going to look the best on a VGA CRT.

As far as checking specs, you just have to have a feel for it if you don't want to be looking up every single model number. The bigger the better, 19'' and 21'' are the best performers, 17'' and 15'' displays are okay but often only go up to 1280x1024 at an okay refresh rate.
Keep in mind what brands are gonna be better. Sonys, Mitsubishis, NEC, IBM, LaCiE etc etc. are all good brands. A lot of dells are repackaged trinitrons, so they're good. Look out for other aperture-grille displays like Flatrons, Diamondtrons, etc.
Stay away from brand you've never heard of. I was using a no-name monitor for a while and it crapped out on me fairly spectacularly.

Also I namefag now, i guess.

>> No.2002691

>>2002684
not him but
>1280x1024

what is an optimal resolution for those kind of monitors? I literally just bought an E215 17" PC Trinitron and i'm pretty hype about it, is it not a good display?

>> No.2002694

>>2002691

Assuming no other factors change, the higher the max resolution the better. PC CRTs will always have to be able to scan out 480p for compatibility reasons.

>> No.2002697

>>2002691
Check the specs. Usually driving them to the maximum supported resolution and refresh rate won't yield the best picture. Taking it down a notch will get you better text rendering and a higher refresh rate. My 19 inch could do 1600x1200, but it was a crappy Philips tube and the text was grainy at that res, so i usually had it at like 1440x1050 @ 85Hz or something.

>> No.2002704

>>2002697
oh yeah, i almost forgot about that. 1024x768 can make it go 100+Hz. Something i need for rhythm games.

>> No.2002708

>>2002697
A good example of this is the legendary Sony FW-900. It's capable of a max resolution of 2560x1600@59hz (A resolution that still rivals today's LCD's in the same size class), but the manufacturer recommended resolution is 1920x1200@85hz

>> No.2002715

>>2002708
>2560x1600
>on a CRT
>it's more than my 27 inch korean monitor

i need this in my life oh my god

>> No.2002718
File: 23 KB, 300x139, cine9.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2002718

>>2002715
Good luck finding one. The ones on E-Bay are ~$600+ and of questionable condition.

Wanna know what's really ridiculous?
The Barco Cine9 CRT projector could do 3200x2560 no problem.

In 2003.

And people still say that CRT tech was inferior. It died off right as it was getting really, really good. Damn consumers, favoring aesthetics over performance.

>> No.2002721
File: 76 KB, 200x179, hotarun.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2002721

>>2002708
>you will never have a widescreen PC crt with new gen tech in 2014
>someday we'll have to live with the fact that the high pitched buzzing sound during tube operation is something we will never hear again
>newer generations won't even know what a CRT is
>an incredibly ingenious technology with excellent results was abandoned because of its size and weight
>nobody cares about at least making a few runs of em except shit chinese crap and ludicrously expensive ikegami displays

is this what it feels like to be triggered? because god damn i feel sad

>> No.2002725

>>2002718

>Aesthetics
CRTs have a better picture.
The problem is size.

>> No.2002726

>>2002718
my wish is to become rich and dump shitloads into CRT R&D and make them have a huge comeback, with special models for retrovidya and shit

>> No.2002728

>>2002697
>1440x1050 @ 85Hz
>my e770s is only able to do that resolution at 60hz
That said, seeing it display a squashed 1920x1080 at 29hz the other night was amusing.

>> No.2002738

>>2002721

>That feel when you know that 90% of the world's CRT's will be dead in your lifetime.

I've recently gotten back into collecting CRT's, so hopefully i'll have enough of a stock to last me a while. Focusing mainly on PVM/BVM's, hoping to get an Ikegami soon. Would Kill for a Mitsubishi Megaview or similar NEC.

Anyone heard from the anon that was getting a PVM-4500 shipped from japan? A tube that big would really be a sight to see.

>>2002725
Yeah, that's what I meant. A big black blob of a TV is a lot less visually pleasing than a flatscreen mounted on the wall.

>>2002728
Don't try and force improper resolutions, it can hurt the driver circuitry.

>> No.2002739

>>2002684
So the only way I'd be able to play 480i games is to buy an de-interlacer (which are expensive for my budget)? Judging from other responses it doesn't seem like 480i pc crts exist.

>> No.2002745

>>2000107
>RF quality bait

If you want to emulate on your TV, get a used wii, or a Raspberry pi with Lakka installed.

and fuck off.

>> No.2002750

>>2002738

It's not just about the sight, it's about the practicality.

>> No.2002761

>>2002738
That wasn't my intention. What I was trying to do is see if I could get a resolution a bit higher than me current 1024x768@85hz.
1280x960@70hz is what I was aiming for; Catalyst kept dropping it back down to 60 though. Not sure if it's actually doable, as it's right at the edge of what it should technically be capable of.

>> No.2002763

>>2002738
you think a BVM 2010P is worth 250 euro? i may have the chance to snag one, and i'm REALLY debated. It seems like one of those rare chances you almost never get. It doesn't look in bad conditions, it's not from a TV video room, so there's that

>> No.2002764

>>2002739
What's your budget? A cheap chinese scaler can be had for less than $20. An Extron IN1502, which will scale a composite/S-Video image all the way up to 1366x768 over VGA, can be had for less than 50. Surplus Extron gear is really high quality, useful for converting video signals, and cheap if you wait for the right dea.

>> No.2002772

>>2002761
See if there's some way to set custom display modes, where you define your own resolution and refresh rate. Sometimes you'll get locked in to a specific set of modes because of the monitor's EDID data.

>>2002763
>250 euro
Hot damn, that's over 300 burgerbucks. Depending on your market, that's a fair big overpriced. As far as I know, the BVM-2010 series are fairly dated. The tube could have wear, etc etc. I'd talk him down as much as you can, and check local auctions and E-bay for better deals.

>> No.2002776

How long do CRTs last? I have a few from 1997 and they work fine, others are from early-mid 2000s.

>> No.2002786

>>2002772
i know it's a lot. he already put the price down 50 euro. I'm obv not going to buy it if nobody else offers and just wait until he drops the auction price again, but given how rare BVMs are here in yuroland and considering that the price averages around that amount if not more (there's a bunch of em for like 550 euro, it's insane) i may be tempted.

250-260 shipped of course, i should mention. I would take care of the shipping side of things and direct him on how not to fuck it up since these are so damn delicate anything could break them, especially given it weighs 55 kilos.

>> No.2002789

>>2002776
On the Neo-Geo.com forums, people have reported getting Sony BVM's with 75K+ hours on them that still perform spectacularly after a good cleanup and calibration.

This will obviously vary depending on what kind of picture settings were kept on the set. High-brightness, high-contrast images will burn a tube much quicker than a properly set image.

PVM's/BVM's are also much more well constructed than consumer CRT's, so they have that going for them as well.

Your average set, i'd imagine anywhere between 40-60K hours before needing a major calibration and servicing, if properly cared for.

At least with CRTs, the chassis can be repaired. With pro monitors, you usually have full schematics, as well.

>>2002786
If your in yuroland and they're that rare, and you're sure it's going to be your primary /vr/ monitor for years to come, and you promise to take care of it, i'd go for it if it's your only option.

>> No.2002796

>>2002772
Catalyst Control Center seems a lot more locked down with that type of stuff than I see from everyone working with Nvidia.

I already have it set to ignore EDID. The real bitch is it'll let me select and feed it 75hz 80hz and 85hz, but not 70.

I wonder if I might be able to do something using winmodelines

>> No.2002807

>>2002796
>winmodelines
I've never played with it. Best of luck however, anon.

>>2002776
Forgot to mention, If you do have a set that's dying, usually you can bring it back to life by replacing the capacitors if that's the issue, and you can get more life out of a weak tube by rejuvinating it. This involves running a current through the control grid and burning off any buildup from the guns, letting you get a brighter, clearer image. I've heard of this extending tube life by several years, however after the 3rd or 4th rejuv, the tube is likely to just burn out.

>> No.2002815

>>2002796
You could:
>Get an EDID emulator
>Cut the data pins
>Make a custom driver
>Use a tool specifically meant for doing this shit via software in Windows

>> No.2002816

>>2002789
I'm still considering it. I do own other CRTs (a samung plano that has RGB and may or may not have composite), the E210 multiscan trinitron, and a PVM whose shadow mask was bumped so hard it got out of place and it has a severe purity error that cannot be fixed. I don't want this to happen again.

I didn't throw the PVM out, though. I decided to welcome him to the family and use him for shmups since the purity error gets fixed almost completely if you flip it to the side.

I could wait for a 14 inch pvm to pop up for a lower price but this looks p good.

If you're interested, this is the auction. Don't mind the pastaspeak.

http://www.ebay.it/itm/Monitor-broadcast-Sony-BVM2010P-/191371285024?pt=Attrezzature_per_DJ&hash=item2c8e9e1220

>> No.2002824

>>2002816
Anon, if you're in yurop, can't you just get a decent set with SCART? I was under the impression that anything with SCART was going to give you a pretty nice picture.

Not to discourage you from getting a glorious BVM, just curious.

>> No.2002848

>>2002824
SCART is fucking retarded and most of the time it either doesn't mean shit or you don't know what the fuck kind of input it is anyway. Here's the thing: you can connect virtually anything with scart, that is if you can actually make the leads touch each other since it's such a piece of shit connector.

BUT

the TV sets don't tell you. My plano has 2 SCART inputs, but ONE (1) OF THEM SUPPORTS RGB, and i found about it yesterday after owning it for 2 years. But it may or may not also accept YPbPr / YUV through it. I don't even know if that's a thing, but it can be. Manual sucks ass.

Most LCDs here have that same layout PLUS the extra leads for YPbPr, so it gets even more confusing.

The thing is, RGB scart ins also take composite, like virtually every single scart input TVs have here. SCART is kind of a synonim for composite, and think composite with RCA leads is RGB. So nobody knows what the fuck kind of TV one has.

Widespread ignorance about video modes in europe, a bad market, and having many of them be 50HzPAL makes it really hard to find good /vr/ TV sets in europe.

Oh, and I could be filled up to my ass with widescreen sony trinitrons for my 6th gen+ but they don't have anything besides RF/composite/RGB/SVideo
RGB ON A WIDESCREEN.

PVMs are the only ones that are guaranteed to have a good image and accept anything you throw at em, sometimes even via scart. So it just saves you time and effort.
Still, i would kill for a widescreen CRT.

>> No.2002871

>>2002848
character limit sucks so i had to cut some things, and some sentences make little sense. TL;DR: most sets come with SCART but the inputs they actually accept with that input are composite and sometimes RGB, nobody knows what the fuck component even is.

And of course, those widescreen BVMs are rare as fuck, apparently exist only in america and cost a shit ton.
If i knew how i'd love to mod custom inputs on CRTs, but i don't know if that is feasible.

I think i need some sleep, i'm writing really badly. But i'm really mad that getting this kind of stuff is so hard.

Still, I don't need specifically a sony pvm or whatnot. I could be fine with any decent shadowmask CRT or a nonsonytron if it just had inputs for the shit i actually play.
But if i can't have any of that, i might as well spend some more and get something that will last me a literal lifetime of video gaming.

>> No.2002914

>>2002718
My dad got a giant projector like that, probably from the early 90's
Worked great, 100" in 4:3 of pretty bright image, in a simple wood plate painted white with shitty paint
Unfortunately one of the tubes broke, probably something shorted and somehow killed it, it was in a way too humid enviroment

>> No.2002917

>>2002721
Post 2000 generations ignore what CRT are
They also ignore VHS or tape in general

>> No.2002923

>>2002776
Depends on loads of stuff
My dad bought a Trinitron in the late 80's for his fathers, they used it until late 90's
As per him the phosphor was fine, the thing that actually ran out was the tube, it still worked but with a shitty image
He still haves it around
I got a early 90's Sony XBR^2, hasn't seen much use, but it looks gorgeous, bright and really vibrant
Unfortunately something in the power supply crapped out and won't start, probably the caps or the transformer

>> No.2002930

>>2002917
i was at an electronics store today and VHS tapes are still being sold.

But yeah, those times are gone. Now kids have their "game stations" and "ray blues", it ain't like it used to be

>> No.2002947
File: 20 KB, 288x367, dvhs_tape.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2002947

>>2002930
>1999 + 15
>Not using High-definition D-VHS Tapes

Stay pleb

>> No.2002957

>tfw no service manual
Where the hell are the adjustment pots on this 1910?

>> No.2002964

>>2002957
Probably somewhere inside. That's old enough to be a full analog chassis. Get crackin' anon.

>> No.2002965

>>2002957
aren't service manuals available in PDF? i've downloaded so many fucking manuals lately it's not even funny

>> No.2002968

>>2002947
>tfw not even S-VHS became popular
We could had 1080i back then with D-VHS
They simply kept shitty DVD's
Fuck life

>> No.2003007

>>2002964
>>2002965
Been playing around.
Found H Size, Pin Amp, and Pin Phase.
This is so far a lot easier than setting it up digitally.
muh knobs

>> No.2003158

>>2002739
Why not just play them on a crt tv? Other than ps2 most game systems/games output progressive, and I think some ps2 games can too.

>> No.2003374
File: 598 KB, 1632x1224, 1910_newparappa.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2003374

Did the geometry on my 1910 tonight.
No OSD so analog only. Had to open it up and adjust the pots.

Before >>2001710
Notice the black area on the sides and the weird pincushion on the sides.

Pic related is after.

>> No.2003380
File: 338 KB, 1632x918, 1910_side.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2003380

>> No.2003383
File: 294 KB, 1632x918, 1910_top.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2003383

>> No.2003387
File: 547 KB, 1083x1632, 1910_back.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2003387

I was surprised by how much space there was inside the 20"

>> No.2003396
File: 364 KB, 1632x918, 1910_colorpots.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2003396

This is where you adjust the color.
Two color temps. 9300 and 6500.
You can manually set either but I'm not gonna mess with that unless I have a color analyzer.
These are accessible from the outside of the case and don't require disassembly.

>> No.2003402
File: 23 KB, 412x307, shrektacular.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2003402

>>2003374
Good job anon, i'm proud of you!

>> No.2003405
File: 396 KB, 1632x918, 1910_pots.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2003405

This board is where most of the geometry pots are.
The big blue one is V Cent. Three on the top right are Pin Amp, Pin Phase, and H Size. H Cent is accessible on the back of the case. I don't know what the other pots on here are and I'm not gonna mess with them.

>> No.2003412
File: 613 KB, 1632x1224, 1910_yes.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2003412

>>2003402

>> No.2003414

>>2003387
You put your weeeeeed in there

>> No.2003683
File: 37 KB, 779x354, 779px-CRT_mask_types_en-de.svg.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2003683

So tonight's experiment proved fruitful.

As you know, arcade monitors are harder to come by these days, and especially old arcade monitors. The various professional studio monitors often discussed in this thread make fine monitors all around, but to me they lack a certain air of authenticity when playing. This is due to their usually being based on the aperture grille technology pioneered by Sony's Trinitron range. Very few arcade monitors ever used this technology, instead using the more primitive dot triad type of screen.

I have a late 90s Phillips television I've posted on this thread in the past, and I have always liked it because it uses a version of that dot-triad type of shadow mask that is similar to old arcade monitors and also features a very rounded screen in all directions (trinitrons are only rounded side to side).

I have been recently playing Final Fight quite a bit and it always bothered me to see the overscan cutting off part of the score. So tonight I made the very daunting trip to the service menu without the official remote for this television. After A LOT of trial and error, including accidentally hitting the factory reset switch, I iron out all screen issues, and improved overall picture quality and geometry significantly.

cont.

>> No.2003693
File: 3.51 MB, 2576x1952, HPIM0868.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2003693

Now, you may not be aware of this, but the gamecube supports CPS1 emulation through retroarch and Final Burn Alpha, so I've been playing around with that.

And you may also not know that the Gamecube has the finest video output of any of Nintendo's systems, and especially its composite video output is the greatest of any video game system ever released. It's really, really good. It's a night and day difference from something like any version of the Megadrive, and a major upgrade from the Super Famicom.

So now I pose a question to you. In this image, I believe it is very close to what an old arcade monitor would look like given the high quality signal (even in an "inferior" format). But the downsides of composite video are made up for here by the roundness of the tube, the more primitive color reproduction technology, and the shadow mask. In a best case scenario I would prefer to use RGB, yes, but I think this is still very good.

Note: this image is not supposed to be razor sharp and mind blowingly good looking. It's supposed to look archaic.

>> No.2003701

>>2003693
Supports CPS emulation via what? Can you burn mini CDs that will self-boot?

>> No.2003706
File: 984 KB, 2180x1508, finalfight_hi.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2003706

I specifically chose this place in the game because there is an old set of photos that were used here too. So it's good to have a comparison.

>> No.2003709

>>2003701
If you have a mod chip you can. I'm using the SD card and SD Launcher. The emulator is Final Burn Alpha through Retroarch for Gamecube.

>> No.2003727

Should I disable my video card's antialiasing settings on my video card for my CRT? I really don't know if this matters at all or not, but I was going through the nvidia config program and thought I'd ask.

>> No.2003738

>>2003693
doesn't look like an old arcade monitor at all

they didn't have all the blank space between pixels

why are you people so obsessed with this and you weren't even around during that era? holy fuck. weirdos.

>> No.2003756

>>2003738
I was around during that era. Don't make assumptions about anyone's age on this thread, or this board. And it does look like quite a bit like an arcade monitor, I should know I've owned a half dozen of them.

I don't know what you're referring to with blank space between pixels. Scanlines? Hello, CRTs have them.

Maybe you should know what you're talking about before posting.

>> No.2003762

>>2003727
I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter, but I would turn it off just in case.

>> No.2003782

>>2002241

Which ones have you been successful with? I've been trying and trying with an integrated Intel GPU which is supposed to be supported by Soft 15khz, but I've never been able to get it to work.

>> No.2003787

>>2003756
No, not scalines, and scanlines were never that apparent on any decent CRT

the actual black space around every pixel. Arcade monitors bled more than that

>> No.2003789

>>2002309
To be honest you're not really going to see much of a difference once you start using RGB. PVM, BVM, XM29, Ikegami, all are such a staggering leap over everything else. The differences between all of them is much harder to discern. The bigger selling points of each of those I listed are their features rather than the image or build quality.

>> No.2003791

>>2002432
It's a Sony WEGA, I think. It makes an awesome television overall. And very good for sixth gen forwards.

>> No.2003795

>>2002635
Your friend is an idiot.

>> No.2003797

>>2002437
>Probably going to be HD which doesn't bode well.

....do you understand how analog television works? damn this board is full of clueless fucks.

BTW that television weighs over 200 pounds. Have fun moving it.

>> No.2003802

>>2002684
Technically, yeah the bigger the better in terms of features and enjoyment while playing. However, I've noticed that 90s computer CRTs have a coarser dot pitch compared to the P1110's and other super fine pitched Trinitrons you often find these days. This coarser screen makes them look better with retro gaming. If you can pull off the whole 240p@120hz BFI combo the results should be excellent.

>> No.2003806

>>2002718
How would that do as a UHD display these days?

>> No.2003809

>>2002776
I had a PVM from 1988 that worked perfectly. I've got a little Toshiba from the mid 70s that still works pretty decent.

>> No.2003815

>>2003787
Old busted arcade monitors bled after being left on for 250,000 hours without service. New and maintained arcade monitors had no color bleed at all and looked awesome.

>> No.2003816

>>2003797

Sony HD CRT televisions are fixed frequency displays and run everything through an internal DVP. This means they are incapable of switching to a lower resolution and displaying retro games in proper native resolution.

who's clueless again?

>> No.2003829

>>2003816
>proper native resolution

SUCH
THINGS
DON'T
EXIST
ON
ANALOG
TVS

way to have the point fucking fly over your head dumbshit. as long as you can adjust the aspect ratio (which you can, I owned one) then you're fine

>> No.2003837

Should I set my CRT's resolution to 320x240...640x480...Or what? Or is higher better...Or does it even matter? My options for refresh rate are 60Hz and 73Hz...Which one should I use?

>> No.2003848

>>2003829
His point was that some CRT run everything through an internal scaler, which will always fuck with the signal, making it look worse than sets that don't have such scalers.

>> No.2003871

>>2003829
What the fuck are you talking about? A native resolution means the resolution which corresponds 1:1 to the graphics of the game being played. For instance 384x224 is the CPS1 and 2 native resolution.

> (which you can, I owned one)

As in you owned a CRT? whoop dee frickin' do

Just stop posting. Jeez.

>> No.2003872

>>2003837
Use whatever is closest to the game you're playing. What are you trying to play?

>> No.2003886

>>2003872

Mainly play SNES, Genesis, MAME, and PS1 games.

>> No.2003951

I'm a bit of a CRT noob. Nevertheless I've been talking to a guy at a local TV station about whether they have any old PVM/BVM monitors and the like. He said they might, but said they were only grade 3 or 4 at best now, and not in the best nick.

What is a CRT's "grade"? I understand that Grade 1 is best, but what is the difference as you go down? Are all consumer CRT's lower grade automatically, and thus PVMs/BVMs are always better?

With Sony, for example, in a PVM-20L5 is the grade in that designation somewhere?

And "TV lines" are horizontal lines/vertical resolution, right?

Thanks in advance /vr/!

>> No.2004000

Sorry to be a bother crt people, but I have a question I'm in no position to figure out myself. I am looking for the best model of sony pvm tomplay 16 bit games on. Which are best?

>> No.2004254

>>2003871
>>2003848

btfo

>> No.2004284

i need help, folks.

I have a Philips 21PT5107S CRT TV 21 inch and its been with me for almost 10 years. it works beautifully but some of the buttons on the tv are not working. i have the orginal remote for it but that's also crapping out to. I was wondering if there are any crt universal remotes out there or if I should just go digging for remotes at GW or something.

>> No.2004298

>>2003829
Sony DA-4 sets run every video signal through an internal digital framebuffer. They are not multiscan monitors. They cannot display 15KHz video signals without scaling. They display 31 and 33KHz signals natively (unless you intentionally fuck them up in the service menu) and scale 15KHz and 45KHz signals.

>> No.2004301

>>2003797
>do you understand how analog television works?
Yes, and Sony XBR televisions are not analog televisions. They are digital televisions. It says so right on the front of the fucking box. Stop posting.

>> No.2004305

>>2004298

A lot of sets do this. Mine does but it doesn't "scale" 15KHz, it just buffers and scans at twice framerate. As far as I can tell.

>> No.2004349

>>2003886
320x240 is ideal then, are you sure your monitor supports that? Most monitors can't into less than 640x480
>>2003951
>What is a CRT's "grade"? I understand that Grade 1 is best, but what is the difference as you go down? Are all consumer CRT's lower grade automatically, and thus PVMs/BVMs are always better?
I don't have much idea, but usually most PVM/BVM will be higher quality than most common TV's, except the really high end ones of the era (some newer CRT's, even though being great, are not going to be good for old consoles, like those HD Sony's)
>And "TV lines" are horizontal lines/vertical resolution, right?
No, it's the number of lines you can distinguish on screen
One might thing it means horizontal/vertical resolution, but it doesn't really, it's a term mostly used for CCTV, the higher the better

>> No.2004356

>>2004349
>320x240 is ideal then, are you sure your monitor supports that? Most monitors can't into less than 640x480

It certainly does. I did test 320x240 with MAME and Metal Slug, and I noticed that it looked shittier than 640x480...I haven't tested it with anything else, though.

>> No.2004363

>>2003951
I wouldn't worry about the grading. It's very likely you'll get one or two of them and not be able to find a single thing wrong with them.

>> No.2004374

>>2004356
Make sure MAME was configured to scale things correctly. Pic?

>> No.2004375

>>2004349
>No, it's the number of lines you can distinguish on screen
>One might thing it means horizontal/vertical resolution, but it doesn't really, it's a term mostly used for CCTV, the higher the better
It's the number of individually distinguishable vertical stripes in a horizontal span equal to the height of the picture. So, in other words, if you buy a 4:3 monitor that is advertised as "600 TVL", you'll get about 800 useful pixels of width.

>> No.2004405

>>2004375

>if you buy a 4:3 monitor that is advertised as "600 TVL", you'll get about 800 useful pixels of width

How do you get this? If you have a 600TVL display, you can distinguish 600 vertical bars. This doesn't really translate to 'pixels', since CRTs aren't fix resolution displays. If you do some math taking into account the size, dot/stripe pitch, and TVL resolution of the tube than you can get an approximation of the maximum resolution the tube can resolve.

>> No.2004415

>>2003951
>>2004349

A CRT's "Grade" refers to the general image quality it gives, with 1 being a brand-new set with a freshly calibrated image, and 5 being a poor dim image with color, purity, convergence, or geometry issues.

Honestly a grade 3 or 4 would probably be just fine after a good cleaning and calibration, they are most likely not suited for TV use since it's possible that they've drifted out of color for that application. Some phosphors lose absolute color accuracy by the 500 hour mark. Not to say the color is bad, just not spot-on for TV monitoring/mastering purposes.

>> No.2004417

>>2004405
>How do you get this? If you have a 600TVL display, you can distinguish 600 vertical bars.
That's not across the whole width of the display, though - it's across a width equal to the picture height. A 600TVL 4:3 monitor has less effective horizontal resolution than a 600TVL 16:9 monitor. The "TVL" measure takes into account all the physical characteristics already.

>> No.2004582

>>2003738
That looks like a good fresh arcade monitor. You must be talking about old ass shitty poorly calibrated monitors that are blurry as hell.

>> No.2004593

>>2003829
He's talking about native to the game moron. Plug a snes into an HD crt and you aren't going to get 224p which it puts out. The tv will scale it to 1080i or whatever, and it will look shitty compared to using a non HD set, and have input lag.

>> No.2004628

Anyone ever used one of these RGB to NTSC encoder boards with a 15khz Mame pc before, or a Supergun?

http://www.jammaboards.com/store/rgb-to-ntsc-pal-tv-converter-pcb-cv-04.html

I was considering getting one so I could use svideo tv's instead of component /w transcoder (already have a transcoder and component tv's) just to try some older curved glass crts. I know RGB is better, but svideo is almost just as good IMO.

I have an extron RGB interface to do composite sync. I guess I would just need a 5v supply. Thanks for any info.

>> No.2005226

>using a windas cable + laptop to fine-tune every little point of geometry on my FW900
>4 hours later, almost done
>the screensaver kicks in and turns off the monitor
>all progress lost

>> No.2005230

>>2003787
>the actual black space around every pixel. Arcade monitors bled more than that
No matter what the physical characteristics of the display, you're not going to get any light coming from the shadow mask. There's no phosphors there.

>> No.2005241

>>2003787
That's because that shit ain't calibrated.

>> No.2005247
File: 208 KB, 667x951, muh scanlines.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2005247

>>2003787
>and scanlines were never that apparent on any decent CRT

>> No.2005297

>>2003787
Uhh, sharper screens have sharper scanlines, haven't you gotten the memo?

>> No.2005315
File: 1020 KB, 400x229, 1329998101368.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2005315

>>2005297
>start a CRT thread on /v/ ages ago
>mfw clueless fucks insist only shitty TVs have visible scanlines

>> No.2005325

>>2003787

I think i've explained this about 5 times in the past week, over various threads.

How noticeable scan-lines are is directly related to two things: The size of the screen and the input signal.
Scan-lines are the absence of video data, where the electron beam has not illuminated the phosphor.

If you input a 240p signal, you will get fairly noticeable scanlines on a 20'' display because there are only 240 lines of video data, therefore only 240 scanlines. Since there are less of them, they are going to be bigger.

Same thing with 480p signals, but you have twice as many video lines and twice as many scanlines. In most situations, you cease to see scanlines either because there is no unscanned portion of the phosphor screen or the video lines simply bleed into any unscanned area, making them unseeable.

A 240p signal on a massive mitsubishi megaview will give you very noticeable scanlines. A 240p signal on a CRT Projector will give you scanlines big enough to realize that they are a pain in the ass.
A 240p signal on an 8 inch display (PVM-8044Q and the likes) will have very small, almost unseeable scanlines.

ANY display WILL show scanlines, given the proper input signal. Scanlines are nothing more than a video artifact from low-resolution signals.

>> No.2005343

>>2004349
>320x240 is ideal then
>PS1

No, it is not. You will get all kinds of scaling issues due to games using resolutions other than 320x240 and being able to change that on the fly, Since CRTs don't care about the horizontal resolution, you should send it one that's at least 10x that size (3840x240, 3840 being a common multiple of several common native horizontal console/arcade resolutions) and have the emulator output in that aspect ratio. It will be visually identical to using 320x240 except games that change horizontal width won't suddenly have non-integer up/downscaling artifacts, because they will be too tiny for your CRT's phosphor grid to resolve due to the large number of pixels in the horizontal output.

Now for games that can switch between 240p and 480i at will, you will have to use 480p (ideally with "interlacing" scanlines as a filter/shader) for those to display properly.

Only way you can just set a single resolution and forget is using these "superwide" resolutions.

>> No.2005367

>>2005315
Yeah people be hatin on crts. Like spending $10 on a display for your games is sooo weird, but spending 2000 on a 4k monitor, and 750 on a graphics card is perfectly normal.

>> No.2005396

>>2005367
My problem is that people judge CRT depending on their experience with old consumer sets with low res content going through RF or composite.
So when they saw HD for the first time they thought it was because LCD must be better, but in reality they were viewing higher resolution that actually isn't through a shit cable. I want to tie some people down and force them to view RGB on my PVMs.

>> No.2005404

>>2005396
Anon, CRTs suck! They're all blurry low-res radiation emitters.

>show them super sharp PVM

OMG WHY ARE THERE SCANLINES MY OLD TV DIDN'T LOOK ANYTHING LIKE THAT WHEN I WAS A KID

>> No.2005427

>>2005404
What I've gotten is "Dang that thing is a cube isn't it?" and "Is that a computer plugged into that?"

>> No.2005480

I'm curious as to if anybody here was the one who managed to get:
http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/zip/4714400551.html

>8 hours ago - Free Qty 4 Sony BVM series Broadcast Monitor (sitting on dock) Will take ad down when gone.

>> No.2005497

>>2005396
Can i volunteer?

>>2004415
>>2004349
>>2004363

Thx anons, and to everyone else for the infos :) I'm not in the door yet, but hopefully these guys don't want their old shit.

>> No.2005552 [DELETED] 
File: 26 KB, 640x456, Hogan's Heroes Facepalm.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2005552

Some people just need to man the fuck up and stop wearing ya darn rose tinted glasses. Time to stop pussy footing around, because the amount of pussiness has climaxed. You need to stop being in denial about this whole butt cunt shit, CRTs ARE NOT objectively better than LCDs. Grow up, man up.

/thread

>> No.2005554

Question, do horizontal support wires become visible after heavy time/use?
I'm interested in a set, but in the image the seller has sent, the support wires are clearly visible against the black background.

It is a thin grey line 3/4 of the way up the screen.
So I'm assuming they get more noticeable after heavy use

>> No.2005565

>>2005552
Please tell me where to find a 240p LCD monitor.

>> No.2005574

>>2005565
The 3DS has one.

I really, really doubt you'd want to use an LCD with that low of a resolution at a size bigger than 5 inches.

>> No.2005575

>>2005552

> CRTs ARE NOT objectively better than LCDs.

Kek

High-quality, properly calibrated CRT's will outperform LCD's in color reproduction, refresh rates, and versatility in displaying different resolutions. LCD's have the size advantage, but a Good CRT will beat out a good LCD in most metrics.

>>2005554

> 3/4 of the way up the screen.

That might be some other image artifact, anon. Usually support wires are either 1/2 the way up the screen, or at 1/3 and 2/3rds the way up. Never seen one at 3/4th. Can you post the pic?

I can hardly see the support wires on my Trinitron with a bright white background. It's a structure of the aperture grille, so it should change it's appearance over time.

>> No.2005576 [DELETED] 

>>2005565

Why the fuck what you want a 240p monitor for? That's just umusable crap! Ha, and I'm sitting on my 1920x1080 LCD monitor laughing at you CRT weirdos.

>> No.2005580

>>2005574
Also

>responding to obvious bait

>> No.2005581

>>2005575

If you seriously think any of those things then you're either seeing through rose-tinted glasses and not being man enough to take them the fuck off or you are using a shitty LCD monitor.

>> No.2005585

>>2005565
I know this is a rhetorical question, but 240p LCDs do exist as replacements for arcade monitors.

>>2005576
>He can't even into retro vidya

>>2005581
I don't see how you can call that seeing through rose tinted glasses. I'm not remembering CRTs as being fantastic, I have several in my possession that are properly tuned and outperform most any LCD i've ever seen in the color accuracy, black level, and refresh rate areas. The few OLED monitors that i've seen match CRTs, but they aren't really commercially viable yet.

>> No.2005594

>>2005585

Yeah actually I'm into retro games, but I don't use them on inferior technology.

You're using an old LCD then, LCDs nowadays are better than CRTs.

>> No.2005612

>>2005594

Yeah, i've seen modern LCDs. They still fall short in color and contrast.

>Playing retro vidya on LCDs
Enjoy your scaler lag and artifacting

>> No.2005620

>>2005612

There is no noticeable lag and I've never had any artifacts on my screen. And I play some really old games.

I have compared some really HD CRTs and they still don't beat modern LCDs, they beat early LCDs which are washed out but nowadays LCDs just blow CRTs out of the water.

>> No.2005627
File: 203 KB, 654x272, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2005627

>>2005575

>> No.2005632

>>2005627

That's the excellent black you're talking about? I just tested my LCD and it actually showed black and not dark grey.

>> No.2005638

>>2005627
If there's no noticeable lag try playing some really timing-precise stuff. Smash, DDR, fighting games, etc. You'll notice it pretty quick. If you're such a stickler for image quality you'd realize why a fixed-resolution display sucks for retro vidya as well. And the fact that dithering and other tricks aren't going to work.

I own several late-model LCD panels, both TN and IPS, and I can say that a tube will still beat both in both color, contrast, black level and response time.

>>2005627
What is this supposed to be? Whatever it is, it's poorly calibrated.

>> No.2005641

>>2005638
The response to you asking for an image of the "line"

>> No.2005647

>>2005641
Lol, sorry. I've been in a bit of a tiff with that other guy. Yeah, I can't tell you what that is. It definatley doesn't look like a support wire, and I can't imagine what else it could be. Maybe just a reflection/image artifact from the camera

>> No.2005648

>>2005638

I play twitch shooters, I've never had any problems. I don't know what you're talking about, I can play at different resolutions WITHOUT blurring.

I have several CRTs and LCDs, I am comparing them literally right now and LCD is looking better for me.

>> No.2005656

>>2005648
Maybe you should properly calibrate the tube then?
What kind of display is it? Is it a shitty chinese hunk of junk displaying an image over composite? Is it a proper reference monitor being fed an RGB signal? If it's the former, then yeah, it's gonna look like junk, composite is junk.

What twitch shooters are you playing? I'm not aware of any retro twitch shooters.

If you want to prove that your LCD doesn't have any latency, pull up a latency test clock on the CRT and LCD side by side and post a pic for us to see. Let me know what system you're on and i'll link you one.

>> No.2005658

>>2005620
>noticeable lag

Protip: lag doesn't have to be noticeable to be detrimental.

No LCD can beat the GDM FW-900 in every aspect, BTW. This is a simple fact.

>> No.2005665

>>2005576
>what is resolution
A magic hdmi cable doesn't change the code to make a game HD
If a game is coded to render 320x240 then it will always be 320x240

>> No.2005670

Emulation with pixel shaders is OK on an LCD.

But real hardware is simply not because those analog signals are shittily upscaled by the display's internal upscalers/deinterlacers.

>> No.2005680

>>2005576
>1920x1080
Is this resolution supposed to impress me? Pro tip: this is a CRT thread. I'm using my FW900, from 2003, at 2304x1440. Take your shitty gook nematics and get the fuck back to >>>/v/.

>> No.2005682

LCDs are total shit for gaming if they're not 120hz, because then you can use lightboost and/or black frame insertion to get rid of the fucking atrocious motion blurring that they all have.

>> No.2005685

>>2005682
>because then you can use lightboost and/or black frame insertion to get rid of the fucking atrocious motion blurring that they all have.
Right, and then you're back to 60hz.

When I run my CRT at 160hz, I get 160 low-persistence refreshes per second.

>> No.2005687

>>2005648
>I don't know what you're talking about, I can play at different resolutions WITHOUT blurring.
No, you can't. This is a simple fact of fixed-pixel displays. You're a shitty troll, and you need to stop posting on this board. Fuck off back to >>>/g/ or wherever the hell you came from.

>> No.2005692

>>2005685
Well most retro games are synced at around 60hz refresh rate anyway. 160hz could only be used for PC games that have unlocked frame rate.

>> No.2005696

>>2004301
This is not true in all cases, XBR edition of TVs have existed since the late 80's. They were usually higher resolution than their normal consumer counterparts and had a high price tag because of it.

>> No.2005698

>>2005696
Exception, not the rule.
The digital thing doesn't apply to only XBRs, also. It applies to any '100hz' sets, where the image is upscaled and processed all to crap. It's very noticeable on these sets, especially on composite inputs with 3D comb filters.

They're great for 6th gen+ vidya, though.

>> No.2005701

>>2005696
He's likely just talking about the FD/WEGA XBRs, of which there's really only one or two that aren't HD sets.

>> No.2005703

>>2005696
Right, but the HD and 100hz XBR sets were all digital TVs and advertised as such.

>> No.2005704

>>2005701
Yeah I know but I don't want someone to come along and see that and go "welp HD only fuck it" on accident.

>> No.2005713

>>2005656

The one I have currently hooked up is a SyncMaster 551V and I'm using a VGA cable.

Doom, QuakeWorld, UT99, Quake Live.

>> No.2005714

>Raiden 2/DX displayed at 320x240p 55.47hz

There were CRTs that synced to 14khz?

>> No.2005715

I think this is entirely appropriate material for any CRT fan

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75WFTHpOw8Y

>> No.2005717

>>2005714

55.47hz is going to be your vertical scan rate, though that's a bit of a weird one.

Horizontal scan rate for a 240p/480i is 15.725 Khz (Or something close like that).

>> No.2005728

>>2005713
If you're using a VGA monitor then you'll have no issue pulling up a latency clock for us.

Also I'm pretty sure you're missing most of the point here. Older consoles (6th gen and back) were designed to work with CRTs, and look better on them. Using them on LCDs looks subpar at best. PC Displays are a whole different world, however the fact still stands that a proper CRT set will still beat out an LCD panel in several metrics. If you play QuakeLive than you should easily accept the advantage that playing at a higher refresh rate on a CRT gives you.

What LCD are you using?

Also, doom is far from a 'twitch shooter'

>> No.2005735

>>2001534
>Jamma connector for NES
U wot m8

>> No.2005736

>>2005728

I would tell you the model but unfortunately during it being shipped to be the text seemed to have bee scratched off, I can tell you it's a AOC though.

In multiplayer it is.

>> No.2005737

>>2005704
Do multisync HD CRT televisions exist? I recall a previous thread where somebody said they had one that could actually sync both 480i and 480p.

>> No.2005738

>>2005736

Lol, sure. GTFO troll. Surely you'd have a box, shipping label, order conformation or something telling you what it is. I assume you aren't going to get us a pic of that latency test either, are you?

>>2005737
The Multiformat PVM/BVM monitors will sync from 15.725Khz to 45Khz, which covers 240p to 1080i and everything in between. Dunno about consumer models though.

>> No.2005739

>>2002721
CRTs might be good for old video games, but they're inferior in pretty much every regard. Being sad we don't have them anymore is like being sad we don't use telegraphs or phone books or modems any more.

>> No.2005743

>>2005738
What difference is there between the bvm-20f1e and the bvm-d20f1e that makes the d20 multiformat?
Is it the board inside, or are all the parts different as well?

>> No.2005749

>>2005738
>Dunno about consumer models though.

The issue is that somebody in the thread is defending HD (consumer) CRT TVs, and I'm skeptical. Pretty sure that 99-100% of them are digital.

>> No.2005750

>>2005743
Can't say exactly, but the internal parts are going to be different, maybe even different tubes? If you can find a service manual for both it'll have a parts list.

>>2005739
>>2005739
gtfo troll

>> No.2005762

>>2003693
The Wii composite input is just as good too. I'm not sure if the Gamecube has this feature too but there's a thing called "VI scaling" that makes a composite 240p signal almost RGB tier sharp at the cost of some serious rainbowing.

>> No.2005765

>>2005739
>but they're inferior in pretty much every regard
Contrast ratio
Color gamut
Response time
Latency
Refresh rate
Persistence

whoops
sorry

>> No.2005768

>>2005738

I'm not fucking trolling you mong, and I am way too fucking lazy to bother looking for any of those things to prove a point to some weirdo on the internet.

No, because I don't fucking know how to do a latency test.

>> No.2005769

>>2005750
>I don't like what you're saying so you're trolling
Good argument.

>> No.2005776

guys i got my ps3 hooked up to a crt right now, but its too difficult to read small text, how can i configure it to make it look sharper? i got a universal cable for it.

>> No.2005782

>>2005776
Is it an SD set? Not really worth it to run it on an SD set unless you have to.

>> No.2005783

>>2005765
>Response time
>Latency
>Mattering for things outside of video games

>Refresh rate
>Implying a CRT with a variable refresh rate depending on resolution is superior to an LCD with a fixed refresh rate regardless of what resolution it's set at
>Implying refresh rate/latency is even a problem in the age of 120+hz monitors
>Implying LCDs are not far cheaper to produce than CRTs on top of being far less environmentally taxing
>Implying LCDs do not offer much higher resolutions for their size compared to CRTs
>Implying an LCD will ever suffer from convergence problems

whoops

sorry.

>> No.2005787

>>2005782
yeah it is, its a samsung from early 2000

>> No.2005792
File: 29 KB, 498x363, the fuck.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2005792

>>2005768

So unwilling to learn, aren't you.

Pull up http://tft.vanity.dk/inputlag.html..
Put your monitors into clone mode
Take a picture, and input latency will show up as a discrepancy between the two displays.
Post that here.

>>2005769
Did you actually read the thread, or are you just spouting uninformed bullshit? I've already addressed the areas in which CRTs have an advantage over LCDs, notably color reproduction, black level, contrast, input latency, and refresh rate.

Protip: CRTs will almost always have a lower input time than an LCD. Since they are analog displays, the input signal is only delayed by the length of the path the signal takes from input jack to tube. LCDs will always have to process any inputs to the digital logic required to operate the panel.

The exception to this is late-model CRT's which employ digital signal processing such as 3D comb filtering to process analog input signals. Since it's a digital process, it adds latency.

>>2005776
Get S-video/Component cables, if your set has the connectors.

>>2005783

>Response time
>Latency
>Mattering for things outside of video games

So you're saying that CRT response/latency time is still better, yes? Even if you're not using it for games the fact still stands that CRT's have better response times.

Besides, this is /vr/, why would you argue this point in a video game board. The entire reason we're having this discussion is because we wanna play games on the CRT's.

>> No.2005796

>>2005792
>Besides, this is /vr/, why would you argue this point in a video game board. The entire reason we're having this discussion is because we wanna play games on the CRT's.
I'm saying that CRTs are dead for a reason and that they are in fact, not superior to LCD technology in any aspect except for the fact that they're better for playing old video games. You're kind of like a hipster who thinks a phonograph is better than a high end sound system.

>> No.2005804

>>2005796
>I'm saying that CRTs are dead for a reason

Yeah, because they're thinner, lighter, and consume less power. The reason why CRTs have been replaced are only logistic reasons, because CRTs alway have a better picture quality than an LCD of the same end.

>> No.2005814

>>2005796
It still stands that CRT tech still produces a superior picture quality than 95% of LCDs on the market. CRTs offer higher resolution than an LCD in a similar size class. LCDs have many advantages, mostly size and power consumption, but they still lag behind in image quality. The exception being OLED monitors, but these are not commercially viable as of yet.

When CRT production ceased in the late 2010's, advancements were being made which overcame many of the issues CRT's faced, such as size, power consumption, signal handling, and so on. Given continued development on the technology, we'd have eliminated many of the issues it faced.

CRT Projector technology still blows 95% of what's on the market out of the water in both resolution and picture quality, with the higher end projector models being able to put out resolutions of 3200x2560. I've only been able to find one projector on the market that beats this, the Sony VPL-VW1000ES, and at $25,000 costs more than a damn car.

>> No.2005815

>>2005792

I'd be able to clone if I didn't have to use my on board intel graphics to use my CRT monitor.

>> No.2005828

>>2005815

No pics? Somehow it's hard to believe that you have anything that you say you do, and it seems like you're just spouting senseless bullshit.

>> No.2005832

>>2005828

Shut the fuck up and re-read what I said, my graphics card doesn't have a fucking VGA input therefore I had to use the onboard graphics to use the VGA cable. These are 2 separate monitors using 2 separate graphics cards, so I cannot go into clone mode.

The best I can do is load up 2 different tabs and then take a picture with my iPhone because that's all I can do.

>> No.2005839

>>2005832
Good luck syncing the timers between tabs

You seriously don't have a DVI to VGA adapter? Literally every graphics card I've had has come with one. So far you've just made excuses to come up empty handed.

>> No.2005842
File: 76 KB, 1200x900, DVIVGA16.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2005842

other anon here, I use this.

works great for me

>> No.2005853

>>2005792
im using component right now

>> No.2005862
File: 75 KB, 1280x720, 1400790393166.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2005862

Anyone knows if it is possible to adapt a regular consumer grade crt tv without bnc or scart connectors, to admit rgbh or rgbhv

asking because everytime i open one of these tv's there are terminals with such labels clearly visible on the board of the tv

>> No.2005865

>>2005862
Usually this is where the SCART/RGB connector would go if it was an EU model. The boards are made for global sale and populated to whatever region they are sold in. Unfortunately, it would take hard to find components and firmware changes to get these working.

However, there are other hacks that can be done to get RGB into north american CRTs. It involves intercepting the RGB signals the OSD chip outputs to the screen and inserting your own.

Search "CRT Jungle IC Hack", "CRT RGB Hack", and similar for more info.

It's sketchy, hard to do, and model-dependent, but possible.

>> No.2005867

>>2005862

Yup, if you know how to handle schematics, a soldering iron, and if course if you know how to discharge a CRT properly.

>> No.2005871

>>2005867
idk how to discharge one, i ve been soldering and screwing the boards for a while making small repairs, but always stay away from the flyback and the gun, what could happen if it is not plugged to the AC?

>> No.2005879

>>2005871
You could get zapped with tens of thousands of kilovolts. :P

The tube acts like a gigantic capacitor and stores a charge after the set is off. If you get zapped it will hurt like a motherfucker and potentially kill you if it's across the heart. Luckily you'd have to be fucking with the tube or flyback to be zapped. Most of the circuitry is low-voltage stuff. People act like CRT's are spewing HV from every corner.

Look up how to discharge one. It's not hard, and It'll be a bit more safe for you.

>> No.2005882

>>2005871

You get to know what an electric chair feels like.

Also, this >>2005879 , it's easy to look up how to discharge a CRT, and you can't fuck up if you alway make all the good moves (only using one hand by keeping away the other, being isolated...)

>> No.2005891
File: 11 KB, 520x222, Ness__Paula_and_Jeff_sprites_by_Kugawattan.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2005891

>>2005879
>>2005882

oh crap i didn't knew but i was always suspicious of opening the fucker because i could get poisoned or something, guess i ll just wear my safety gloves to be double sure i don't die while trying to get some decent retro gaming

>> No.2005898

>>2005891

You won't have any problems after discharging and disconnecting the board from the tube anon.

>> No.2005904

How do I take the back off of a SyncMaster 500s? It doesn't seem to have any screw holes.

>> No.2005906
File: 29 KB, 346x461, syncmaster.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2005906

>>2005904
>SyncMaster 500s

Look under here

>> No.2005921

>>2005906

Thanks, disappointed that I picked out a bit of plastic while trying to figure out which way it opens.

>> No.2005959

http://www.zippcast.com/video/f069c2e609348abfc77

>> No.2005971

>>2002745
I know it's cheaper, but I don't mind paying for quality

>> No.2006021

OP here, i just woke up to see trolls the size and weight of a BVM-D24E1WU because you fed them so much

next time around ignore those assholes, you're just gonna get headaches and get in the way of people discussing cathode tuubes, they're not here to talk about monitors, they're here to sperg about them being retards. Report, hide, ignore.

and now, an on-topic question: if a monitor gets hit on the side and the aperture grille doesn't get damaged but it causes the brightness to fuck around and the image to flicker, it means it's probably a circuity problem, right?

I'm asking because there's a huge ass 16:9 trinitron in my area for around 20 bucks that has that problem, according to the seller. I may be interested in getting it and fixing it if it's just a minor circuitry problem.

>that feel when poor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-BVM-D24E1WU-24IN-1000-LINE-HD-RGB-COMPONENT-SDI-RETRO-GAME-MONITOR-PVM-/191368888680?pt=Video_Games&hash=item2c8e798168

>> No.2006050

>>2006021
seriously it's better to discuss sense on another forum. Expect some random jibber jabber.
CRT thread is mainly the reason I come here

>> No.2006083

PVM14M4 for $60 a good deal? I've never owned one before and this is like the only model near me for sale aside from some PVM-14N5U but those only go up to s-video I believe (for $60 as well)

>> No.2006087

>>2006083
If the tube is in good condition i'd say that 60 bucks isn't too bad at all. If you can check personally the tube and overall monitor condition, that'd be great. Maybe you can even haggle on the price a little bit, but 60 bucks is good nevertheless

>> No.2006154
File: 26 KB, 527x409, 1399458750523.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2006154

>>2000072

>> No.2006173

>>2006021
Muh dick
Looks like someone smoked around it though

>> No.2006231

>>2006087
Sounds good, I'll ask for pictures of it actually on and with a game/video feed as well (and give it a good inspection if I decide to make the trip). I hope I can talk him down a bit for sure, it just seemed like a good opportunity to me.

>> No.2006329

I hear a lot about CRT TVs in these threads. I would like to know more about PC CRT monitors for playing old PC games and emulation.
What's important to know? Do they tend to support all their lower resolutions natively or just scale them like HD CRT TVs?

>> No.2006361

>>2006329
Generally natively. But it depends on the video card drivers and the OS support for it. Getting support for 320x200 is generally more of an issue on modern hardware, but you can generally do 640x480.

>> No.2006398

>>2002631

>>2002628 here. I just re-read your post and I noticed you said it is normal for the tally lamp to light up, but in mine it doesn't. I said the power light lights up , as in the tiny green light next to the power button. It lights up for a second then it turns off. I am beginning to wonder if it is broken.

>> No.2006574

>>2006398

Hmm, maybe then. Could be a short somewhere causing the power supply section of the board to overload. I'd still try to connect a video signal and see what you get.

I said that because lots of people get confused as to what the tally light actually is, lol.

>> No.2006579

>>2006574
I will, thanks.

>> No.2006595
File: 835 KB, 2048x1536, DSC00925.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2006595

>>2006398
I only repaired consumer CRTs and i encountered a similar issue in my KV-M1400D.
I just didn't stayed on, only if i wiggled the power switch then it might did.
I found the reason for this after desoldering that power switch.

However, it's possible to tell if a CRT that displays nothing is running.
One way would be to dim your room like a darkroom, you should be able to see that the whole phosphor glows.
The other way is to see if the heater for the electron gun is glowing, i don't think that you could see that through venting slits on a PVM. If not then take it apart until you exposed the CRT, so that you can look at the clear glass of the neck.

>> No.2006640

I'm having a proper kek here

http://www.ebay.it/itm/Sony-BVM-20F1E-Professional-Monitor-Grado-1-SDI-RGB-YC-con-Control-BKM-10R-/301345237214?pt=Televisori&hash=item46299368de

aside from the price, the last sentence reads: "the monitor pictures are original"

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=43256&sid=c2762093ce0be8733a448f3519abc137

it's a fucking screenshot of a 2006 post, this is hilarious

can't wait to see what ebay has to say about this

>> No.2006648

>>2000110
Retron 5 is garbage

>> No.2006786

>>1999815
do people only like crts now to be hipsters
not trying to be insulting or troll anyone just wondering if there's any legitimate advantages

>> No.2006794

>>2006786

>Near-zero input lag
>Supports the low resolutions of old games natively
>Scalines
>No scaling or deinterlacing artifacts
>Excellent picture quality and particularly colour reproduction (most of the stigma about CRTs delivering poor picture quality comes from the video formats used)
Of course CRTs aren't without disadvantages, but a CRT is necessary for the best picture out of many games consoles.

>> No.2006819
File: 3.18 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20141015_135838_955.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2006819

Okay...Have it running at 640x480 with 60Hz refresh.

>> No.2006828
File: 3.17 MB, 2000x2667, IMG_20141015_135828_121.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2006828

>>2006819

Extreme closeup.

>> No.2006835
File: 10 KB, 480x360, hqdefault[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2006835

>>2006828

WOAH

>> No.2006892

>>2006786
>do people only like crts now to be hipsters


No.

Next question?

>> No.2006918

>>2004628
I've seen the results of them, and they were very good. If you wanted to do RGB>S-video from your PC you can get a result that's about 99% as good as RGB>Component.

S-video is really sort of slept-on as a format in a lot of places. It was derided for years at the Arcade Control forums and neo-geo.com before we figured out that it's a matter of a lot of devices outputting shitty s-video, rather than something wrong with the format by itself.

If you want to see what good looking 240p over s-video is like you can buy a s-video cable for your PlayStation or PS2 and play some old games like Super Street Fighter II Turbo or Twin Cobra which were ported to the system in 240p. They look really, really good.

>> No.2006932

>>2006918

I'm rather sceptical.
Is it possible to mod higher quality S-Video encoders into older consoles, then?

>> No.2006950

>>2005325
All good and right info, but I'll add some more.

Depending on the type of screen it will also influence the visibility of lines. Shadow masks and slot masks have less delineated individual pixels compared to anything which uses and aperture grille, and displays which are designed to display higher resolution will generally have more noticeable scanlines compared to something which is only for 240p/15khz.

This is the reason why PC CRT monitors are the lowest tier of CRT for retro gaming. They CAN usually display 240p by doing the old doubled frame trick, but the result will be a very line-y and dim image compared to what you'd get from a SD television or pro monitor.

The reason for this is the PC CRTs usually have a very fine dot pitch and and like higher resolutions like 1024x768, or 1280x960 or some such. When you try to play 240p on these monitors something funky goes on in the way the raster(?) is drawn and you get these thin lines instead of big bold lines of pixels like you'd get on a PVM or television. And in between these lines is a lot of black space.

Put a 19" CRT PC monitor right next to a 19" RGB TV/monitor running the exact same resolution and the difference between them will be tremendous. Even if they use similar screen types.

>> No.2006956

>>2005554
They don't get any more or less noticeable.

After using the monitor for an hour you'll never see it again. Your brain erases it.

>> No.2006957

>>2005796
>not superior to LCD technology in any aspect except
See:
>>2005765

>> No.2006958

>>2005565
The one used in the GCW Zero is 240p, but it's only 3.5".

>> No.2006963

>>2005575
I hate to say it, but modern day top-end LCDs really are good. I think the days of CRT being the king of black levels and color reproduction are pretty much at an end.

>> No.2006964

>>2006957

Don't respond to b8

>> No.2006967

>>2006963
>I think the days of CRT being the king of black levels and color reproduction are pretty much at an end.
Of course, because now you can get OLED monitors. They're around $15,000 though.

>> No.2006974

>>2005862
It is possible, but it is a level 99 hack.

>> No.2006984
File: 57 KB, 640x367, apple_with_cga.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2006984

>>2006329
Playing old PC games on OLD pc monitors is baller. Peeps are just now getting onto that. Best of luck.

>> No.2006993

>>2006967
The highest end LED LCD looks as good as an XBR960 or a Loewe Aconda, and it comes in a bigger screen size. Maybe something like the very very highest tip top BVMs made in the the last five years would still best a $3000 LCD, but it would also be less than half the screen size.

>> No.2006998

>>2006932
Yes, should be very doable.

>> No.2007041

>>2006918
>If you wanted to do RGB>S-video from your PC you can get a result that's about 99% as good as RGB>Component.
If the resolution isn't high, but it's not that noticeable on most /vr/.
Think about it, NTSC modulation frequency is 3.579545mhz and the chrominance is lowpass filtered with about 1.5-2.5mhz (depends on encoder) before modulation.
The pixel clock of the NTSC SNES is 5.36mhz when the hires mode isn't used (256 pxiels per line), meaning that the max. frequency is the half (2.68mhz, of course it should be steep/a square wave contains upper sidebands).
You can get that frequency from a pixel fine checkerboard pattern, the reason why your statement isn't that wrong is because there isn't much loss when 2.68mhz gets lowpass filtered at 1.5-2.5mhz.
Now with higher resolution like 12.27mhz (square pixels 480i@60hz) you get a visible loss on fine colorful details, as 6.13mhz is way higher frequency as 1.5-2.5mhz i mentioned before.

>before we figured out that it's a matter of a lot of devices outputting shitty s-video
I agree. I compared the S-Video luma from my PAL SNES against the luma from homemade my RGB->Component transcoder. The luminance from the SNES had visible jailbars and RGB didn't.

>>2006967
And how long will these OLED panels last?
My Trinitrons look very nice despite of being over 20 years old, how would OLED compare to this?

>> No.2007045
File: 3.98 MB, 4128x3096, IMG_20140910_003459.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2007045

>>2006950
Some monitors had a mode to boost brightness by increasing the blooming of scanlines, which helps a lot with 240p. Still fairly scanliney, but much better than without, and far less dim.

>> No.2007091

I tried looking around for info but there's nothing to be seen

my E215 multiscan trinitron yadda yadda is slightly dim, any way to fix it or is the tube just too old?
If it can be fixed, how? new caps? software? anything?

>> No.2007096

>>2006819
How big is it?

>> No.2007108

>>2006819
Might want to set your camera's ISO lower, if possible.

>>2007096
>NEC Multisync XM29
29''

>> No.2007113

>>2007041
This is pretty much what I've read in the past on assembler games when the subject was brought up. The basic idea I took from it was that s-video had enough "bandwidth" (to borrow a term) that you can send a high quality 240p signal through it with a minimal loss of information. As long the cable is good quality and you eliminate sources of interference.

>> No.2007117

>>2007091
What do you mean by dim? Dim in comparison to what?

>> No.2007124

>>2007091
>recapping a PC CRT

I've never heard of anyone doing such a thing. Sounds daunting.

>> No.2007134
File: 196 KB, 1077x808, 20141005_3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2007134

>>2007117
my PVM, my Plano, any CRT or LCD even, really. it's just an too dark for what it should be. I did set brightness to high and the OSD to 9300K, so i don't know if it's the tube aging or something else.

I'm asking mostly because if it's not fixable i'll just give the CRT back to its owner and get my money back.

I can't take pics right now unfortunately, I'm not where the monitor is and won't be back until maybe this weekend, but i do have some pics the owner sent me beforehand. Pic related.

I just want to play thief with decent blacks goddamit

>> No.2007142
File: 278 KB, 1077x808, 20141005_2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2007142

>>2007134
another one, It's more evident here; you can see it's quite dim.

>> No.2007152

>>2007041
Current numbers state that OLED displays will lose 50% brightness at around ~40,000 hours. There is a curve though, since at 1,000 hours, blue dots will lose 12% of their brightness, red will lose 7% and green 8%

>> No.2007230

>>2007134
That's just they way things are, mang. PC CRTs do not give off as much light as televisions and pro monitors. They're designed for you to sit two feet from them for hours at a time, and if they were as bright as a television they'd burn out your eyeballs.

I wouldn't get rid of it. It's a good monitor, and great for playing older PC games. At the very least you should keep it around to play with. I always got a kick out of watching early HD broadcasts on things like this.

>> No.2007236

>>2007152
Can you adjust the brightness of each color to compensate for this difference?

>> No.2007271

>>2007236

I'd hope so, however i'm going to assume that any consumer-grade OLED display is probably not going to have these adjustments readily available. Pro monitors, for sure, though.

>> No.2007402

Are there any UK posters here?

Can I get you to do me a favour and call a broadcast company for me, they state they have a few monitors in stock on their website, but don't respond to emails. I just want to know whether they still have the monitors or not.

>> No.2007406

>>2006794
thank you for taking the time to enlighten me

>> No.2007440
File: 868 KB, 1600x600, xm29 rangerx + waifu.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2007440

>>2006819
Sup my brother. Where did you find yours?

>> No.2007683
File: 1.21 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140921_142945.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2007683

>>2006950
>>This is the reason why PC CRT monitors are the lowest tier of CRT for retro gaming

Sorry but that's wrong. With the right setup, it will look as good as or better than a PVM/BVM pro monitor. The image is not dim when configured correctly, and the scanlines look fine at the proper view distance of a few feet.

People only think that they are "the lowest tier" because they don't know how to properly utilize them in emulation or they want an ultra bloomy image that lesser quality CRTs have.

>> No.2007686

Once you go 20" you never go back.

>> No.2007707

>>2007683
Sorry but you're wrong. I've used all of the things you listed and more, and they are inferior overall. I'll agree the scanlines are not bothersome when you sit back a few feet, but that doesn't change the fact they are the lesser of the group.

The image isn't dim. It's exactly the luminosity needed for a PC monitor, but that differs from what is expected from a monitor used for video and gaming.

I think you're being very condescending and presumptuous to assume anyone in this thread doesn't know how to "properly utilize" a PC monitor. We know all the same shit you do, brother.

>> No.2007749

>>2007707
>I think you're being very condescending and presumptuous to assume anyone in this thread doesn't know how to "properly utilize" a PC monitor. We know all the same shit you do, brother.

People are still suggesting using stuff like 320x240 or 640x480 instead of using a superwide mode that actually handles in game resolution changes, so no, not really.

They are far and away from the "lowest tier" because of their inherently high image quality compared to TVs. "Lowest tier" would be stuff like composite/RF only TV sets from the 80s and other such low quality CRTs that lack good inputs and have shitty screens.

There's nothing wrong with using linedoubled 480p mode for these games either if it doesn't handle 240p well. And the image quality will still be far superior to the average TV.

>> No.2007771

>>2007749
I'm talking about RGB capable displays when I say PC CRT is the lowest tier. The other things you mentioned are in a completely different category. But to tell the truth I'd easily take a good television and s-video over a PC CRT and RGB.

The rest of what you're saying is irrelevant, and most of us just don't give a shit about using wider than normal resolutions because we don't play any games that switch res. On the odd occasion I do need to do that I'll do it, but for the moment I'm going to continue recommending a game's actual resolution when someone asks "what resolution should I be playing this at?".

Again, you've stated nothing new.

>> No.2007857
File: 44 KB, 580x435, AB3Pn.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2007857

>>2007771
other anon here, I like to use wide resolutions on my PVM. (when hooked up to my pc)

>> No.2007859
File: 160 KB, 187x448, ohshit.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2007859

>>2007230
I see. Looks like there's a new arrival in the family, thanks.
I always forget how much of a commodity CRTs are now.

In other news, CHECK THIS SHIT OUT! 120 bucks total, pick up only but it's close to where i live:

Two JVC TM-1500 PS
A Sony PVM-1954Q
A JVC TM 2100E

It's gonna be a pain in the ass to move those but at 30 euro for each monitor it doesn't look so bad.

>> No.2007869 [DELETED] 

>>2007859
>literally hoarding old useless shit
>"only $120 to clutter my life with things I have no use for!"

this board is so heavily based around mental illness. It's really disturbing.

>> No.2007902

>>2007857
>>2007857
what game is this

>> No.2007904

Be easy on me, I'm a CRT newb but I'm confused. How would I, for example, output PSX video using component without modding? I see PS2 component a/v cables. Would those work?

>> No.2007908
File: 277 KB, 850x1198, 10017501.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2007908

>>2007902
its the arcade version of "Willow" for the capcom cps1

>> No.2007914

>>2007904
>How would I, for example, output PSX video using component without modding?
You can't. While the PS2 can switch between outputting component and RGB, the PSX only outputs RGB. If you need to connect a PSX to a TV that accepts component, then I'd suggest getting a PSX SCART cable and a CSY-2100 converter that will convert the RGB signal to component. The CSY-2100 will run you about $60 and the SCART cable about $20.

>> No.2007920

>>2007914
just scoured google to the best of my ability. any idea where to procure a PSX SCART cable? the converter is easy enough to find

>> No.2007924

>>2007920
Pretty much any place that sells Playstation accessories. It's the same cable for PS1/PS2/PS3.

>> No.2007926

LCDs are better than CRTs.

>> No.2007927
File: 97 KB, 1000x1000, $(KGrHqJ,!rQFIEBjlz-tBSCKeHwgvg~~60_57.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2007927

>>2007920
I got mine from this seller on Ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-seller-Sony-Playstation-PS1-PS2-PS3-SCART-RGB-sync-on-luma-cable-/161414147092?pt=US_Video_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2595086c14

One heads up about the CSY-2100. It doesn't pass sound through. I modded mine with a stereo 3.5mm jack, but it would be easier to to get a SCART breakout box (picture related) to pull the sound instead.

>> No.2007932

>>2007927
thanks anon, appreciated

>> No.2007959

>>2007926
Wow great argument fagtron you sure convinced me with those hot opinions

>> No.2008132

Anyone dicked around in the service menu of a widescreen sony trinitron?
Trying to disable this 100hz bullshit it apparently has that kills the scanlines but when i enter a scanrate menu it tells me to enter a subaddress with the default being "00h" and when i go on from there i get a list of shit like "SYNCHFTHDM" "VTHRH60M" "VTHRL60M" "CONSM" etc, they have values in brackets behind em and also a number without brackets.

>> No.2008203

>>2007771
> we don't play any games that switch res

You don't play much besides NES then. Even SNES needs to change horizontal width at times. Wider resolutions also lets you do more convincing signal bandwidth emulation and other things that can take advantage of the higher horizontal resolution. There's no reason not to use it this way.

>> No.2008259

What's with all the shitposters?

>>2008132

You probably can't. I have a Toshiba TV that does the same 100Hz bullshit.
As far as I'm aware, it was only built to be capable of 31KHz.

>> No.2008265

Hello, I have a few problems with my old SyncMaster:

1. For the first 10 or so minutes of turning on the monitor, it has green tinted view but it only when I'm playing games. Desktop has no green tint.

2. In games when I turn around there are trails of bright light sources left behind which last about 2 seconds.

Are there any ways to fix this?

>> No.2008294

>>2008265
the green tint thing sounds like a driver or video card issue, if other applications don't have it i exclude phosphor degradation

although, i don't know about the light source thing. Try connecting another monitor if you have one and see if the problems persist.

Just my 2 cents, i'm by no means an expert

>> No.2008295

>>2008265

What video cables are you using to play games?
I have a green tinted image when I output YPbPr and the screen expects RGB.

>> No.2008307

Hello,

I posted at the beginning of the thread that i wanted to buy the Samsung Plano. I bought it yesterday but it is way heavier than I thought (it's been a long time since I had one).

The Plano is in the back of my car right now, because there is no way I can carry it to the sixth floor alone. I'm gonna do it tomorrow with a friend. Now my questions:

1. It is getting really cold at night around here. Is this a problem?
The TV is in my car and i put a blanket around it.

2. Does anybody have any tips on how to transport the TV up the stairs? Like I said, I live on the sixth floor.

>> No.2008346
File: 321 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01089_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2008346

>>2007152
>since at 1,000 hours, blue dots will lose 12% of their brightness, red will lose 7% and green 8%
1000/24=41.6 days
Wow, i'm really impressed.
Do people lose their shit on that?
I know that KV-M1400D on my desk.
It was in daily use from day it was bought in about 1993 up to 2007, then it was unused until 2009 to 2011 and i use it for a couple of month with my PC.
Let's say 15 years of use with about 5 hours a day.
15 years*365 days*5 hours=27375 hours
The colors look as great as they did back then but the intensity is also a important factor, it could be burned in by now if it was always been set on the highest brightness and contrast.

That "super" AMOLED technology that Samsung uses in their dumbphones last like a year then things that has been often displayed like the keyboard, status bar, certain symbols and app UIs are often burned in and recently Samsung already reduced the warranty time for the display alone.
If the display is only burned in after 6 months of the purchase then it will not get replaced (at least in europe, i don't know about other regions).
I know this from my job as authorized technician for Samsung mobilephones, we (me and my coworkers) really replaced a lot of burned in displays before this new rule was set and after that it became rare to replace a display because it was only burned in.

>>2007236
>>2007271
No. It will get burned in like some certain arcade CRTs shown on the net. You could try to display the perfect inverse of the burn in and make the rest shittier to compensate it, like you could do that on a CRT.

>>2007926
>obvious bait/troll post: X is/are better than Y.
I'll bite.
KV-M1400D on the left vs. SDM-HS75 on the right.
This picture was taken in the last night with no lights on.
Both displays were on and displayed pure black.
While i saw a very faint glow on the CRT with my eyes, the camera wasn't sensitive enough.
The bright lights are the LEDs from my PC, NES/SNES controller adapter and both displays.

>> No.2008356

>>2008265
Is the green tint very strong? If it's light, then it's just the monitor warming up. A lot of old CRTs do that.
The trails are "phosphor trails". It's a sign that it's an old CRT, but not a sign that it's dying or anything.

>> No.2008367

>>2008356

What causes phosphor trails?

>> No.2008376

>>2008367
The phosphors being old. They're less snappy, so they don't go back to dark as fast as they used to.

>> No.2008389

>>2008376
Are some degree of phosphor trails normal, even in a not-old CRT?

>> No.2008436

>>2008307
>t is getting really cold at night around here. Is this a problem?

Nope, not a problem.

>> No.2008489
File: 308 KB, 800x572, IMG_1784a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2008489

I just picked up 21 inch Trinitron (made in Spain) from a local goodwill store for 2 €. I'm really happy with how crisp the games look, although my shitty camera can't capture a decent pic.

Only problem is that while I can edit image settings in service mode, whenever I get settings for one console (have NES, SNES and MD) right it kinda screws it up for the others. The picture is never in a place it's on the correct alignment for all three (especially with SNES RGB). But I guess that's a minor nitpick having to adjust it or just play with picture slightly misaligned since it looks pretty good.

>> No.2008493

>>2008489
>whenever I get settings for one console (have NES, SNES and MD) right it kinda screws it up for the others
I have this problem, but I think it's different for each system and even games based on how the palettes change. Some games look better dark and moody where others are more suited to lighter more vibrant color modes. Grats on the purchase though, that's a steal!

>> No.2008494
File: 2.08 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140807_185803.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2008494

>> No.2008496

>>2008494

Awful!

>> No.2008561

>>2008436

Thanks!
I was just putting another blanket around it.
Man, carrying 40-50 Kg tommorow ist gonna be horrbile.

>> No.2008575

I want a Playstation to SCART cable, how can I tell if it's RGB or if I am getting jewed with a composite only connection?

>> No.2008580

>>2008575
Buy from a reputable seller.

www.ebay.com/itm/US-seller-Sony-Playstation-PS1-PS2-PS3-SCART-RGB-sync-on-luma-cable-/161414147092?pt=US_Video_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2595086c14

retro_console_accessories is a pretty well known seller of nice cables.

Alternatively, if you have a model SCPH-1001 PS1, you can use PlayStation component cables into the RGB ins of your monitor and then connect a cable from the composite out of the PlayStation to the sync in of your monitor.

>> No.2008581

>>2008575

Buy it from a good seller and don't buy cheap shit.
If it has composite RCA ports (usually in a block in the middle of the cable), that also tends to mean it supports RGB. That's not certain though.
Your eyes should be able to tell, but if they can't then plug it into a PS2. If changing the colour space settings in the menu doesn't change the image then it's not an RGB cable.

>> No.2008586

>>2006361
Are there any VGA monitors that don't do scan doubling? I tried Doom, but the monitor ran in 720x400 with two lines for every pixel, which looked like ass.

>> No.2008595

>>2008580
Composite out? I thought the Playstation only did sync on green?

>> No.2008597

>>2008595

Only the PS2 does RGB Sync-on-green.

And a regular composite video signal will work as composite sync for RGB most of the time, depending on the monitor.

>> No.2008604

>>2008586
Pretty sure the game itself sends a line-doubled signal, or rather the video drivers.

The easy way out is to use DOSBox and insert scanlines. If you don't like the way 200p/240p looks on PC CRTs, you'll have to do the whole shit with CRT_Emudriver plus whatever hardware works with it.

>> No.2008616

>>2008597
Regarding the PS2, does it make sense to use a Sony PC CRT exclusively for 480p games, or do they not support sync on green?

>> No.2008623

>>2008616

Some Sony PC CRT monitors support SoG, so you can do that, but you won't get an image until you actually start the game, so the boot screen & menus won't be visible.

There was actually a VGA adapter accessory that came with the PS2 linux kit, very hard to find now.

>> No.2008674

>>2008203
Or arcade games, or master system games, or any of a dozen other kinds of games.

>> No.2008789

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audio-S-Video-Composite-AV-Cable-For-Super-Nintendo-Gamecube-NGC-N64-SFC-TV-SVHS-/171287452967?pt=UK_Video_Games_Cables_and_Adaptors&hash=item27e1871d27

Legit?

>> No.2008802

>>2008789

I see no reason why it wouldn't be.
But if it's quality, properly grounded and shielded... That's a different question.
For that price it seems worthwhile regardless.

>> No.2008813

>>2008789
>>2008802
My money is on the S-Video using composite for both sets of pins.

>> No.2008820

>>2008813

That's also a possibility. Of course your eyes should be able to tell the difference and it's not a significant investment.

>> No.2008870
File: 2.85 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20141016_132444.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2008870

I was thinking the S-video cable I got for my SNES was faulty or maybe my TV was but I'm starting to think it might be the console itself since everything looks fine when I use the cable on my N64.

>> No.2008876

>>2008870

It's possible the console itself just has a poor quality video encoder. A lot of early consoles do.

>> No.2008916

>>2008876

How would I get this fixed?

>> No.2008919

>>2008916

Open up your console and switch out the video encoder for something better, I'd imagine. If you're going to that much trouble you should probably just have it RGB modded.

>> No.2008963

>>2008870
most s-video cables for snes are of a terrible quality

>> No.2009060

>>2006574
Connected a video signal and got nothing. At this point I'm sure something is busted, but I have no technical know-how so I'm just going to have to deal with having a broken monitor.

>> No.2009081

I'm moving next week.
I can't my PVMs with me.
I'm sad

>> No.2009121
File: 7 KB, 225x225, hank.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2009121

>>2009081
Give them to me? :3

Why can't you take them? Moving overseas or something?

>> No.2009125

>>2009121
Yeah, moving from France to Bulgaria, I only had a week to prepare, so I don't have the time to arrange sea shipping or whatever. Plus I'll be living in a hotel for a while.
I'm leaving at my mom's house, along with my cat and my car, hoping I will get them back later.

>> No.2009127

>>2009125
Your mom will sell your car, throw away your PVMs, and eat your cat.

>> No.2009128

>>2009127
pls no

>> No.2009129

Is aperture grille always superior, or are there cases where shadow mask wins?

>> No.2009151

>>2009127
>and eat your cat.
kek

>>2009129
>are there cases where shadow mask wins?
They are sturdier and lighter.
And no damping wire, but that's not really an argument as it isn't annoying for me.

>> No.2009159

>>2009129
As far as Picture quality goes, Aperture Grille displays are going to win 95% of the time.

Of course, if you put a super high end Shadow Mask against a mediocre Aperture Grille display, than it's going to look better.

Stuff like high end Ikegamis will look better than most of the PVM line and a good portion of the BVM line.

>> No.2009169

>>2007091
Probably just old
Try degaussing it with a real degaussing ring thinge
Check power supply to see if it's still supplying enough power

>> No.2009194

How badly would a PAL to NTSC converter fuck with quality? specifically i'm thinking of converting PAL C64 s-video to NTSC

>> No.2009215

>>2009194
I don't think it should affect quality at all, but do some research.

Ideally you'd just have a monitor that can handle both

>> No.2009227

>>2007771
>I'm talking about RGB capable displays when I say PC CRT is the lowest tier.

Good job backpedaling there. You said nothing about "RGB capable" earlier. Even then, that's still untrue, since good PC CRTs beat all but the highest quality RGB pro monitors in image quality, just that they lack support for 15khz input that most consoles output so they're only useful for emulation on PC.

>But to tell the truth I'd easily take a good television and s-video over a PC CRT and RGB.

OK, that's just tells me you don't really care about quality then. Back in the 90s I would have killed to be able to display my console games on a crystal clear PC monitor instead of a blurry ass TV, so I don't agree at all.

>> No.2009231

we need a new thread

who's gonna do it this time?

>> No.2009234

>>2009231
tfw had a webm idea for next OP
tfw didnt make it

>> No.2009236

>>2009234
make it anyways, the threads will go on for a bunch of time, you can always post it in the next one

>> No.2009243

>>2009159
aren't new Ikegamis aperture grille displays?

Not like i'd be getting one, too rich for my blood

>> No.2009260

>>2000882
well hello there Ranma.

>> No.2009269

>>2009227

Nah, they're flat CRT face displays but still aperture grille. Very, very high performance displays, however.

Their current high-end model is a 950TVL tube with .25mm dot pitch, besting all but the highest-end 4:3 Sony BVMs.

>> No.2009309

requesting crt gaming setup porn

>> No.2009821

>>2007926
To be honest I don't use my CRT anymore, so maybe you are right. I might bust it out for my Windows 98 Athlon machine though, maybe post some pics.

>> No.2009830

New thread
>>2009795

>> No.2009882

>>2005696
Some early 90's had a mix of analog and digital, the XBR^2 could do stills using a digital framebuffer, and PIP I guess using the same, probably through a overlay or something

>> No.2011523

is there a fucking pvm that supports 480p or do all of them do 240? i want to watch dvd rips and play dreamcast on one, but i guess it's not the best, right?