/vr/ - Retro Games

I'm receiving a saturn in the mail tomorrow, and I'm planning on modchipping it. I know installation is braindead simple, with the only soldering being the 5v line to the chip from the power supply.

However, I'm away for college and I can't use the soldering supplies at home for probably a month. I'm wondering if it's possible to temporarily nigger rig the 5v line by just tying the wire around the hole or something along those lines.

>>1938421
It seems doable. If you look at the Saturn's power supply, the 5V feed comes from the plastic connector on the bottom left, which slides onto metal spikes on the motherboard. You might be able to wedge the wire into that connector and get a solid connection.

>>1938452
That's encouraging to hear. Of course, I could always just use the swap trick for a month, but I really don't like the idea of fucking up the motor

Picked up an NES for balls cheap. Doesn't power on with an official Nintendo AC adapter. Opened it and gave everything a little TLC, but no luck. Is it the internal power supply?

>>1938461
The swap trick is really easy to do. I did it for years before I got a chip, so I don't think a month of swapping will ruin the motor.

>>1938545
Does the AC adapter produce a voltage? Do you have model 1 Genesis adapter you could try?

>>1938545
NES can take a wide variety of AC adapters. I know I can power it with my genesis adapter.

Just don't try the opposite

>>1938552

I have no way to test the voltage, and no Genesis 1 adapter. I guess my first order of business is to make sure the adapter works.

I'm a complete noob to all this, so bear with me.

I feel like hooking up my old NES and N64 and playing like in the good old days but I don't own a CRT display or any television with optical capabilities. Can anyone recommend a good signal converter?

Also, are there any decent aftermarket controllers (all my N64 gamepads have deficient joysticks) for both these consoles? What about multi-carts? Even used cartridges seem to cost a fuckton now.

I'm currently sifting through Google but as always the signal to noise ratio is pretty horrid and there's little indication as to what is dog shit and what isn't.

>>1938561
a voltmeter is a pretty common device. If your dad or anyone else you know is pretty electronics-savvy they probably have one laying around somewhere.

And I would recommend seeing if anyone you know has a working NES adapter that you could test to see if the problem lies in your NES or your adapter. It would really suck to buy a new adapter just to find out it's the NES itself that doesn't work, for example

>>1938581
AFAIK NES and N64 don't support RGB, so you might as well go with a composite to HDMI box. I don't know any off the top of my head, but they shouldn't be too expensive. The whole "getting the best video signal" thing is a really deep rabbit hole that you might get lost in if you keep digging. Stay away, I shit you not, lest you end up modding consoles and buying all sorts of wacky cables and shit. Ignorance is bliss.

As for the controllers, I know the hori N64 controllers are supposedly really good, with analogue sticks that are exactly the same as the gamecube ones. However, they're like 80 bucks a pop. You could also just buy replacement analogue sticks, which are cheap and plentiful and easy to replace

I'd recommend a multi cart if you'd be buying a bunch of games. They're expensive, so if you're only looking to pick up a few games, it's not worth it. But plan ahead because it would suck to buy a bunch of games and sink in a ton of money only later to think "you know, I should just buy a flashcart"

I bought a SNES off of Ebay, but it only makes a buzzing sound when connected to my 16:9 LCD TV.

When I turn it on with a game the buzzing sound changes slightly. Can here the game very faintly in the background. There is no display, just the buzzing sound.

Am I boned?

Haven't been able to get an answer last time I posted, but I'll try again. I have an N64 controller which has an R button that constantly thinks its locked down to active. I've opened it up, cleaned it (wasn't dirty in the first place), but that button is still always locked down. It renders the whole controller useless. Any ideas at all how to fix it?

>>1940806
How does it look under the rubber pad of the R button?
Do you have a multimeter?

>>1941000
It looks completely fine. This is a controller I bought new back in the day, the R button went wonky after just 2 months or so (first noticed it when the shield was constantly activated while playing Smash Bros), and I've been hanging onto it ever since. And no I don't own a multimeter.

Okay, so I have a disorder that causes my hands to tremble when I'm focusing on an activity. This is a problem when gaming, but there are a few PS1 games I've always wanted to try.

Is there a reliable guide for how to, I guess, tighten the triggers on the controller so that it takes a really hard button or stick press to actually hit the button? I want to be able to play without accidentally hitting buttons every time my hand shakes.

>>1941647
I remember when Guitar Hero was still huge my friends and I would "mod" our guitars by buying adhesive Velcro strips and sticking the fuzzy side under the strum bar so the bar wouldn't move as much. Maybe you could try that? Be careful not to glue them onto the actual contact points of the controller's guts.

>>1938410

ayy guys

so heres the thing. I got a S&K cart off ebay a while back, only to find that it doesn't work.

I'm using a genesis model 1, and all of my other genesis games work just fine on it.

assuming its the cart that was the problem, I went into my local gaming store and bought another cart

now I'm finding that this new cart doesn't work either

what could be wrong? is there something stupid I'm missing here?

>>1941804
Did you clean them?

>>1941829
they don't exactly look too dirty. it were cleaned and tested at the store (they clean/test everything before selling) and the seller on ebay did the same

I can't find any reason these shouldn't work

>>1941838
Clean them anyway and clean the cartridge slot. It's hard to judge how dirty the contacts of a cartridge are just by looking at them. See the cleaning guide in the OP. Did you see them test the cartridge at the store?

>>1941851
no but i saw them testing other things. and it's safe to assume they test every game they get especially when they told me they do. I doubt that store would stay in business if they didn't test everything

the cartridge slot is fine as far as I'm aware, I can play other games just fine. it's just sonic and knuckles that seems to not want to work

I bought recently a loose Sega Genesis very, very cheap. I got no controllers, nor cables, nor AC Adaptor.

Here in my country, seeing a Genesis is very unusual, and I grabbed it without thinking. Finding the original cables and power cord is very difficult btw. I asked on the electronics street (guys who repair stuff) and someone told me that he can made me a 9V 1.2A AC Adaptor just like the original Genesis for 7 bucks.

The question is... I can do this? It is safe to do this? Recommendations or advices to tell to the electro guy?

>>1941865
always get the original adapter or an after market one that's professionally made

i wouldn't risk it

>>1941863
I just cleaned them and one of them seems to work fine now. guess they just collected a bit of dirt on the contacts while on the shelf

>>1941868
It's nearly impossible getting an original one. What kind of AC Adaptor I need to ask for the Genesis Model 1? I'll buy a generic one instead. Thanks for the advice anon.

>>1941870

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-POWER-CORD-AC-ADAPTER-FOR-SEGA-GENESIS-1-SEGA-GENESIS-1-AV-CABLE-BUNDLE-/121358151720?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

get this or similar. make sure it says genesis model 1 ac adapter, otherwise it won't work.

model 2 adapters are 10v and have the same connection, but they will not work with a model 1

>>1941870
>It's nearly impossible getting an original one.

Nigga please, they're all over the place on eBay.

>>1941881
Let me fix my sentence then.

>It's nearly impossible getting and original one here on my country and Ebay is not an option because the shipping is insanely expensive

>>1941876
Can you please name all the features the AC Adaptor needs to work on my Genesis model 1?

Like Voltage, Ampere, polarity and so on. I'll really appreciate if you can tell me those so I can search an adaptor with those specific features.

>>1941887
Step 1: Look for one that is not made out of recycled Chinese newspapers, preferably UL/CE approved/listed/whatever.

>>1941893
roger that, what else?

>>1941887
Here's a picture of mine.
When you pick one up, you'll definitely want to check it to see if it puts out the right voltage. I've seen some third-party ones put out significantly less than what they say they do.

>>1942348
Undervolting doesn't cause a problem, really.

>>1942509
When I say significantly less, I'm talking about one I looked at that put out less than 4.

>>1938452
>You might be able to wedge the wire into that connector and get a solid connection.

You can, but you are weakening the pin mount in the power supply that way, it'll push against the pin with less force in the future. May be a problem over time, and I don't know if you can replace it. Soldering is the best choice obviously; I tend to solder to the CD drives +5v line because you need slightly shorter cables and some older chips oddly enough tend to work better than if they got power straight from the PSU (emsic7-1 chips and sanyo drives sometimes act like that).

Also, what the fuck is that grey goo soldered onto the 220v connector on that picture? I've opened up 20-30 PAL Saturns but never saw anything like that on the power supplies.

>>1942632
>what the fuck is that grey goo soldered onto the 220v connector on that picture?

That's one of my first repairs. The AC connector had become detached from the board. It's sloppy, but it's held up for years.

>>1942348
>10v

it should be 9 nigga

>>1942838
It's actually 14.

>>1940064
Did you hook the video line up to the audio and vice versa?

>>1942838
1602-1 is 10V, 1602 is 9V. I have one of each.

Hey guys,
I have a 4-slot MVS that works pretty well, except for the 3rd slot. When I try to boot a game on that slot, it'll boot but the graphics will be insanely glitched. Audio will surprisingly be okay. All the other slots work just fine. And yes, I did perform a battery mod on the board already.

>>1943882
have u cleaned the connector?

>>1943891
Yeah, I cleaned it with 90%. Didn't seem to fix anything.

>>1942838
>>1943239

That's an excelent observation anon. Can you take a pic of your genesis 1602 AC Adaptor just like >>1942348 did?
So I can print it and search all over my city for an AC with the exact same voltage, ampere, polatiry and all.

Sorry if my replies sound somehow redundant and boring, but english is not my native languaje.

Oh, and thank you very much for helping me here.

>pic of the back of my genesis if that helps

>>1943232
No.. I double triple checked it and tried the different AV inputs on my TV. same case each way. Even tried plugging each plug into the video even though it was the wrong color in case it was wired wrongg

>>1944538

>>1944725
Hmm.. Does at least the RF work? Could be a bad connection to the multi-out port that might require some solder reflowing, but that's all I can think of at the moment if RF works and AV doesn't. Well, other than the usual capacitor issues.

>>1944805
hmm, I haven't tried the RF yet. I'll give that a go. Thanks anon. I don't have an RF converter box though. Can I just put any old cable in there?

>>1944805
>>1944850
Well I just tried plugging in one of the RF cables I have but it doesn't fit the SNES properly (too loose) and I couldn't pick anything up. Think I'll try and get one of the RF boxes off ebay and maybe crack it open before then and check the solder joins.

>>1944871
Nearly any game system's RF switchbox will work, but also any simple RCA cable. The only issue would be connecting it to the antenna-in port on your TV or VCR, but eh, you can rig up a temporary connection with just plain wire.

>>1943239
>>1944797
Very fascinating. There's also another version of the 1602 supply which takes a 35W input instead of 17W, but still outputs 9V @ 1.2A. I've updated the info on the wiki and added that picture:

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Sega_Mega_Drive/Genesis#Model_1_US

I got two playstation 2's, other one works fine but is little slow to understand there's game in the tray and it doesn't understand that controller is plugged in when it's in main menu. (cleaning should fix this one)
Other one is problematic thought, because when i open the tray (well, it opened up right away when i powered on), put the game in and close it, it will just open again right away when it has closed.
I will open them up probably tomorrow, but if anyone knows what i should look for i would appreciate it.

>>1945490
Playstation 2 is not retro.
>but it can PSX games
So can the PS3, still doesn't make it retro.

>>1945530
I know, but /v/ doesn't have repair thread and i'm pretty sure they wouldn't help if i asked.
I didn't find anything from google either so i came here to ask.

>>1945490
For the disc tray problem, I can think of two possibilities: either the eject button has some sort of connection problem, or a mechanism in the disc drive that detects if the tray is opened or closed was knocked out of place. You'd have to set up the PS2 so you can operate the PS2 and see inside the drive to watch what happens when you open and close the tray.

>>1945530
>>1945548
Let's not go down this road again. A few non-retro questions always pop up in these threads and usually don't take up more than 5% of each thread, but the inevitable meta-discussion about what consoles we can talk about takes up far more posts. It's best for the thread if we let a few non-retro questions be asked and leave it at that.

>>1938410
Hello

I am getting ready to install a Xeno GC on my old Gamecube. I have seen people play Gameboy games off discs using this method. Can someone explain how to go about burning Gameboy games on a disc that a Gamecube with a Xeno GC chip can read?

Also whats the best disc (Fullsize or mini) to use with a Gamecube without modifying its laser? I am assuming it only reads DVD+Rs and not DVD-Rs, correct?

>>1945620
Nevermind not retro, I am an idiot.

>>1945530
The only thing I dislike here on /vr/ is the overthinking on what is retro and what is not.

Retro are discontinued hardware, that's it. PS2 is retro, Wii is retro, Gamecube is retro, why do you here think that if it doesn't have pre-rendered stuff or pixels is not retro, I wonder?

Just asking, I don't want to debate really.

>>1945639
Well, there's no real overthinking about it. Does it fit under board rules? If yes, then it's retro here.

That said, the occasional older non-retro device question is acceptable enough, though what should happen is that people post their issues on the wiki message board and let us know here that they posted regarding something non-retro.

That should really be in the OP pasta.

>>1945639
It's as simple as looking at the board sticky. Redefining the board doesn't work when it's all spelled out right there.

ayy niggas

I get controllers at goodwill for cheap sometimes, only problem is they fucking tape them up. this ends up leaving a shit ton of goop all over the cords

I've tried using alcohol wipes to get that shit off but to no avail. any suggestions?

any general goop tips and hints? I have quite a few game carts that had price stickers on them leaving tons of sticky shit all over the back

Hi, I have a PAL A NES that I want to play ntsc games on. (no its not cheaper just to import a ntsc NES where I am) So my question is what is the likliness of breaking my NES if I remove the region lock. Also how effective is this, ie are the games actually playable or are they too glitchy?

>>1945789
Its pretty easy to do, just use a stanley knife and be careful to only break/remove the right pin. All the games I have played have been fine...

>>1945817
I meant its pretty easy to remove the pin, not break the nes...

>>1945821
Awesome, thanks man

>>1945771
Goo gone

>>1945620
>>1945628
TheIsoZone's forums should have a wealth of information on the subject.

>>1945771
409, WD-40, Hoppe's No. 9, any real cleanser should work. Fold a paper towel, wet it with your cleaning chemical, and grip it around the cable. Then pull the cable through your clenched fist to hard-wipe the crud off.

The first pass should make the paper towel turn black. Do a few more passes by re-folding the paper towel to keep the yuck from re-depositing, and enjoy your newly silky cables.

>>1945490
Tray problem is probably shit in the gears. Good place to start

>>1945530
If you made the rules and this meant an end to threads about emulators and shit they run on I'd be behind you 100%. Unfortunately you don't make the rules

Got the original GameBoy and a copy of Tetris after helping a buddy out.

I'm getting a weird whirring sound while playing games, I just assume because the speakers are fucking ancient.
http://vocaroo.com/i/s1pCifsISO0U

And the contrast knob is more than finicky. Every time I adjust it ever so slightly it decides to go completely dark or so light you can't see it. It'll do 3-4 rotations of contrast before sticking to whatever side I'm rotating it towards.

>>1946218
Have you tried using headphones with it?
The speaker might be going out, but that's an easy fix if you're handy with a soldering iron.
I've never had the contrast problem with any of mine, maybe it's dirty or worn out.

I doubt this is the right thread for it but this is the closest I can get without opening a new one:

I'm making a MAME cabinet, and I'm using MaLa as my front-end. I've got a nice layout and it's all ricerific and controls are working fine but one small problem bugs me: the game titles on the list are the full titles, with the rip tags and everything. Is there a way to remove the (World)s and the (rev 4)s from the game list in MaLa? My only guess was to try and change it in mame.xml but that's no dice.

>>1943943
we.ll you could try cleaning it with some electronic contatct cleaner and if that doesnt fix it it might be a broken trace somewhere but on an arcade board itd be really hard to find i imagine

>>1946059
>Unfortunately you don't make the rules
You are correct, I didn't make the rules. I only stated what the sticky says (more or less).
>Retro gaming means consoles, [...] video games on platforms launched in 1999 and earlier.
>platforms launched in 1999 and earlier
>With the release of the 8th generation of consoles, the Sega Dreamcast will now be considered "retro", though the remainder of the sixth generation (Xbox, PS2, GameCube) will not.
>the remainder of the sixth generation will not
The PS2 is not retro and therefore shouldn't be discussed in here.

>>1946616
If you have a problem with a PS2 hardware question but not with all the phone/clone threads shitting this board up then you're part of the cancer.

>>1946706
Not him but I for one have a problem with both, as well as with anyone who contributes to either "cancerous" topic. I'm guessing that includes you.

>>1946218
Sounds like interference. Maybe a bad repair job?

>>1946218
If you need to replace the speaker, one from an original DS will fit with little modification

>>1946885
Also Radio Shack sells a small speaker that's the right diameter, but the plastic shell on it is too tall. Needs to be cut down to about the surface of the cone. Also, I had to bore out a few millimeters of the back case to make room for the magnet. Still, sounded vastly superior to the original.

But I still think the humming could be interference if the coil's not fucked.

>>1946971
>But I still think the humming could be interference if the coil's not fucked.

It could be, but it's a definite possibility that it is fucked, given its age.

Best way to figure that out is getting another speaker from either of these sources and hooking it up. If it's still making that noise, it's not the speaker, and you should look for other problems.

>>1945789
>So my question is what is the likliness of breaking my NES if I remove the region lock.
3 ways to remove the CIC:
- Traditional, break off pin 4.
- Solder 2 wires to specific spots.
- Remove it completely and bypass the reset connections.

>are the games actually playable or are they too glitchy?
Depends, test the NTSC rom in Nestopia in PAL mode is one way to find that out.
But don't trust it that much, as quirks of the PAL NES hardware are still being discovered.

>>1946218
Humming is quite normal, you could attach a good AC/DC adapter to it (3-6V) and see if it goes away.

>>1947058
>Humming is quite normal

Legend of the River King
http://vocaroo.com/i/s15Ix0MA34vL

It seems to depend somewhat on the game, and what the GB is doing. On my apparently only working DMG-01, I get minimal hum and whine. The one I modded, I sold. THIS is what THAT one sounded like when I was done.

http://www.mediafire.com/listen/9z949joss6kiv8a/DMG+stereo+pro+sound+modification.wav

>>1948312
>It seems to depend somewhat on the game
Because it is.
The CPU features a SLEEP opcode that stops the CPU and reduces power consumption until a interrupt happens like vblank, linkcable transfer complete and much more, then the CPU starts operating.
Batteries do have a much greater impedance than a good power supply, and when the gameboy draws more current then the voltage drops, and this drop gets worse with increasing impedance. This rapid change of the voltage is quite fast enough (60hz framerate) that it causes that hum.
Maybe closed resistance of the power switch of DC jack is higher than it should be, but do you know which kind of batteries anon uses?

>>1949839
Ah, thanks for the illuminating explanation for the hum. The whine and clicks were clearly processor-related, as they changed due to what was being displayed or played back. I ( >>1948312 ) was using newly made rechargeable cells, but I've never bothered to check their impedance values. I pretty much stopped all real EE work when my useless degree didn't get me in the door anywhere.

Is there supposed to be only one of these? Game itself works fine but I was just wondering.

Also its star wing(pal).

Did this like two years ago. Green lighting on the LCD, bypassing the amplifier circuit for dat dere clean sound and some fluorescent spray paint.

I also recently put a wasp modchip in my gamecube in case anyone cares.

>>1949864
There only needs to be one. They connect the ground plane in the game board to the ground in the console.

Question, what kind of battery uses the SNES, GB and GBA cartridges?

I have several snes, game boy and gba cartridges that won't save anymore and I was wondering if they use diferent types of battery of I can use the same type for all.

Can I use these for my carts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20X-CR1616-SAVE-BATTERY-REPLACEMENT-W-TABS-GAMEBOY-COLOR-GBA-ADVANCE-POKEMON-/261573679956?pt=US_Video_Game_Batteries&hash=item3ce7019b54

>>1938545
Check the voltage regulator 7850, mine came back to life after replacing it. Is this little thing.

>>1949872
>I also recently put a wasp modchip in my gamecube

I care, what does that do? Let you play pirated discs?

>>1941884
Where do you live? there has to be a local online store like Mercadolibre or something.

>>1950015

it's a wii drive replacement. However most of those fit into a Gamecube as well. The wasp fusion which I used lets you play isos or homebrew stuff like SNES9x from an SD card. There's also the WODE jokebox which lets you play stuff from an USB drive.

I can link you some resources or help you out if you want, but you should at least have some basic soldering skills.

>>1950032
Nah it's cool man, I don't have a gamecube anymore, but thanks for the thought.

Besides we aren't supposed to talk about GC here yet, I just wanted to indulge you.

>>1950040

d'aaaaw. thanks

>>1950012
Voltage regulators... yeesh, do NOT forget to adhere them to a bigass heat sink, lest the magic smoke of your whole house be released.

Got a snes. Cleaned it all up and it powers on, plays sound, but the image is all distorted if it displays an image at all. Tried multiple games and cleaned the connector multiple times.

I'm guess a ppu is bad and it's not worth fixing?

>>1950054
>but the image is all distorted if it displays an image at all
>I'm guess a ppu is bad
Do you get a stable video signal?
Or do the pixels look fucked up?

>it's not worth fixing?
kek

>>1950065
Pixels look fucked up

>>1950118
Then it's PPU related.
Resolder the PPUs and VRAM with hot air (SMD reworking), that's the first i would try.
VRAM is a standard part: 62256 in a SOP28 package; 32kbyte 8bit 5V SRAM.

>>1950145
So you don't think it's the actual chip?

>>1950157
Maybe, it's not like you posted a pic of the glitches.
But it happens that the tiny solder connections of SMD chips break in a way that you wouldn't spot it with the naked eye.
Just resolder with hot air until solder melts and reconnects.

>>1950167
I need to pick up a hot air station but I feel confident I can do that.
Don't want to go around buying random snes just to gut for a ppu.

>>1950167
Pic from online but my screen looks exactly like this guy's.

>>1950184
Transplanting a chip with 100 pins that have a pitch 0.5mm requires some serious skills.
But at least your CPU and APU are running properly, unlike the 2 dead SNES boards i have.
>I feel confident I can do that.
I give you some tips:
- Hold on until the solder gets shiny, and let it be shiny for 5-10 seconds
- Don't worry if you see some slight smoke from the solder
- Keep in mind that the board has components on both sides, don't bump it
And most important: discharge the SNES. Unplug the AC and turn on, you should see that the LED flashes.

>>1950198
Now i think that it's just the VRAM, or the connections from the PPU that goes to VRAM.

>>1950210
Ya after looking at the price of the hot air stations I think I'll just put this snes away. Maybe sell for parts or something.

>>1950252
Welcome to the dilemma of the electronic engineer. You know how to do it, but you can't fucking afford it, and you can't get the money because no one will hire you because you have a useless degree with no recorded work history in the field.

>>1950457
I honestly thought they were the same price as a high end soldering iron haha.

So I got a copy of Metroid Zero mission at a used games store. Everything works except saves are deleted when i power down the system. At an earlier suggestion from here I soldered in a new tabbed battery but it still doesn't work. Only thing I can see that may be an issue is that there is a strange white substance on the back of the board. Picture is the new battery in place to see if I did anything wrong.

>>1950537
This is the substance. It was all over the inside of the casing as well.

>>1950019
I searched on Mercadolibre Peru, but the only thing is there is an AV Cable, no AC adaptor for Genesis 1, not even a generic one.

>>1950537
Ew. Sure you got the battery polarity right?

>>1950571
I'm pretty sure. I can double check.

My ps3 doesn't autograb the disc when I attempt to put it in nor does it completely update to the latest firmware. It'll download it but it cancels during install. Any tips to fix it?

>>1950537
>BS62LV256
>Very Low Power/Voltage CMOS SRAM 32K X 8 bit
This chip stores your data.
>that 8 pin IC
This chip disables (to protect your data when cart isn't used) and powers the SRAM.
>>1950561
This looks like adhesive to me.

Now check the traces and components for damage.
Do you have a solder iron with a fine tip?
Then resolder these both ICs.

Here's what Zero Mission looks like in pristine shape:

>>1950595
Lovely. Fucking phone decided to fall out of focus while I was pressing the button.

>>1950579
The tip of my soldering iron is too big for me to comfortably work with areas that small. I don't see any damage on any of the prongs that you mentioned though they ask look like they do in that picture. . Anything else it could be

>>1950629
You should be able to buy alternate tips for your iron, and dremel them to the shape you want, for a pittance. I haven't bothered to do that, yet, as I hate SMD soldering.

Hey guys, I know this isn't retro but I really need help and I don't want to ask /v/ for help

both of my dualshock 2 controllers have stopped working

on one the face buttons stopped working, and the analog has to be turned on manually

on the other one the d-pad and face buttons don't work and the analog has to be turned on manually

I tried cleaning the contacts on the rubber pad and the face layer on the first one to see if that might solve the problem but to no avail

any idea what might be wrong? I really don't want to have to toss them

again sorry for not retro

>>1950643
At this point I'm beginning to think I may just try to return it and order a copy online. Battery still has charge is connected correctly. I dont see any cracks in the solder at any of the locations mentioned.

>>1950651
Try a different Playstation (DS2 pads work fine with PSX systems), or a USB adapter. If the controllers work with another system, then the controller board for the PS2 may be kerfuckled. They're not too expensive or difficult to replace, though.

>>1950654
>return after attempting repairs
Just write it off as a loss and put it away for a rainy day project.

>>1950663
I've tried using another controller on the same ps2 and it works fine, so it's definitely the controllers themselves.

>>1950643

I wouldn't recommend that. The actual core of the soldering tips is made of copper and the flux would start dissolving that after a short while.

>>1950643
>>1950694

Just get a proper SMD tip. they shouldn't be that expensive unless you're using some backwards-ass third world soldering iron

>>1950537
>>1950561
You know, that residue would have been a good idea to mention last time you brought this up.

Clean it up, check for broken traces.

>>1950602
funny, my metroid zero mission doesn't have a battery

>>1950561
Just wondering, could that be leaked acid from the previous battery?

>>1950996
No. The old battery is completely in tact.

>>1950996
I've seen this before, it's been wet and dried out. It wasn't soda because that would leave a dark brown residue.
I agree with the other person, clean the board and check for scratched or broken traces. Another thing is to re solder the chips with a small amount of solder.

>>1951095
Clean it with a damp rag? What do I do if I find a broken trace?

>>1951134
Clean it with alcohol. If you find broken traces, this video should cover some methods of patching it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPLD3fYfEYc

>>1950210
Been searching this issue some more. I never replaced a chip like the ppu on a snes so sorry if this question is dumb.
Is there a way to use a socket like on the nes chips? Seems the snes chips are far too small but I figured I'd asked.

>>1950735
Neither do the other 100 games that come on that Chinese 100 in 1 cart

>>1951347
how do they save without battery?

>>1951360
flash

>>1951148
After cleaning it up and looking it over. The only damage to traces I saw was here. It does go near the box that someone said was for saving. Could this be it?

>>1951467
That trace looks like it's exposed but doesn't look broken. If you have a multimeter you can check to see if it is broken.

>>1951360
Some fake carts don't save. Do yours? If it does without a battery it's probably flash.

I'd like to know how I go about replacing the thumb stick for my n64 controller. A guide would suffice as long as its really freaked, as I'm a bit of a dunce.

>>1952707
Replacing it is easy. It's only some screws and a cable that plugs into the circuit board.

how easy is it to do a region mod on a us snes
i have the original one if its any different
>>1938421
if you got the one from sega style i didnt even solder it to the power supply, just sorta nestled the wire and made sure it made contact with the metal part

also when i boot up my snes the game turns on pretty much every time, but for some reason the reset button doesnt work, it just goes to a black screen and doesnt reset

>Bought a N64 off a friend
>Played it for about an hour at his place, zero issues
>Carefully pack it and bring it home
>Play the same game
>Randomly resetting, usually after 2mins
>Made sure all connections were secured, and on a solid flat surface
>No dice
>Tried other games
>Nothing

Any ideas

>>1952707
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380705497715

I don't know if this stick needs the mod board that the Gamecube replacement sticks need to unfuck their sensitivity.

>>1953135
Random resetting is a semi-common issue. I ran across a lot of threads on boards about it when checking to see why my reset button didn't work.

Eventually, I just drowned mine in alcohol and fixed it, but my problem was completely different from yours.

>>1953154
Apparently I should take to it with a toothbrush soaked in rubbing alcohol.

>>1953161
I wasn't about to desolder the six pins, and open the steel clasps that held the switch mechanism together. I just drowned it in 90% Isopropyl and blasted it dry a few times. Worked fine afterwards.

EE. Good to know my multi-thousand dollar degree saved me from a minor annoyance in a $25 game system.

>>1953161
Also, yeah, good idea. Just remember, you need to remove a SHIT TON of screws to get to it.

>>1953170
I started with the cartridge slot/power sockets and am going to work my way back.

About to test it

>>1953172
All of the tiny screws in the heat sink plate and surrounding environs need to be pulled to get access to the whole board, but perhaps not the reset switch in the southeast. Take photos as you progress, in case you forget what goes where.

>>1953172
So I
>Scrubbed the cartiridge port with an alchohol soaks tootherbrush
>Same with the power socket and the reset button
>Reset all the connections

It seems to be working now. Gort through an entire level of Goldeneye

Now I just need to figure out how to get my shitty old CRT tv to stop saying "channel set" nonstop (There isnt even a menu button its that old)

>>1953191
>"channel set"

Get a remote for it? Connect it to cable and let it scan for channels?

A couple of issues I have with my Master System:

My 3D glasses aren't working properly. I've done some quick research and it seems the adapter is, most often, the issue. I tried to open it to look inside but the screws are rusted and when I tried to unscrew them, the survace just scraped off. Now I can't open it because the tips are all damaged.

Any good method for prying open my 3D glasses adapter without literally forcing it open?

The issue with the glasses is that twisting the cable input on the adapter will constantly change the shade of the glasses, sometimes making it not work, or even to blur the image. Any chance the glasses themselves are broken?

Furthermore, my Light Phaser is misaligned. It shoots slighly right and upward. How can I properly calibrate it?

All of my stuff are Brazilian TecToy models.

>>1938410
Is there a way to tell my NES toploader is getting power?

I got it the other day, plugged it into my LCD TV through RF and let it scan and all the shit and it picked up nothing, same thing with my other LCD. I tried it with my super nintendo and got jack shit as well (I know for a fact my SNES works with AV on these same TV's).

I went to a friends whos going to give me his old CRT next week, and it didn't seem to work either. Just nothing, tried all the channel settings, and just no go. I should've brought my SNES to make sure.

I've tried it with 3 different coaxial cables and nothing.

Thoughts? I've considered taking it apart but I don't really know what I'd be looking for. I splurged and bought like this toploader and about 15 games and I have no way to test them.

Seriously considering buying some dudes overpriced AV modded original NES and returning this one just so I don't have to deal with this RF garbage.

>>1953223
>I tried to open it to look inside but the screws are rusted and when I tried to unscrew them, the survace just scraped off. Now I can't open it because the tips are all damaged.

If they're that bad, the easiest thing to do is to drill out the head of the screw.

>>1953135
I had this problem. I fixed it by cleaning the slot and cartridges.

>>1953285
Best way would be to check it with a voltmeter
If nothing else, you could just leave it in the on position for a long time and see if the console is warm to the touch. I'm not sure if NESes get warm or not, so you might need to take off the top of the case and touch the processor directly.

>>1953208
No sadly. I am trying to think of a way to fix it. Might see if I can program a remote to it or dig out an old axial to connect it to the cable.

>>1953368
A universal remote may be best. I paid $40 for a remote for my laserdisc player. yeesh.

>>1953386
Probably, gonna play Ep1 Racer all night though since the top of the screen hardly matters

And it looks AWFUL on widescreens (Though if I had to I could fuck with the settings to make it passible im sure)

bump

whats a good place to find replacement parts for cheap? I need a new analog stick for my dualshock 1

>>1956090
A box of broken DS1 controllers?

>>1956431

I guess but where could i find something like that

its not like there are people just giving them away, even if they are broken

I want a Game Boy Pocket but I really like the green tint of the DMG's screen.

Is there anything I can do? Is a green backlight my best option?

>>1956467
Check the dumpster at your retro store.

>>1956508
Oh, I'm also looking for a cheap GBPocket to salvage the mobo and LCD. I found one similar to pic related.

Anybody knows what the 'smudge' is? Is the glass portion of the screen still good? Because I'm cutting the rest for a backlight.

>>1956641
Forgot the pic.

>>1956643
That lcd is toast. It looks like bad heat damage.

>>1956467
Sure they are. If you're expecting them to deliver it to your moms basement free of charge for you then you'll be disapointed.

>>1951467
you made sure to install the new battery with the correct polarity, right?

this may be the longest open-issue in a repair thread. it's been in what, like the last three threads?

i hope you finally fix it so i can stop reading about it

Guys, please I really need help, i got an old Game boy (DMG-01), and google isn't helping or I can't find any info about the I have (the GB doesn't turn on, no power at all, not even with the DC supply adaptor), can any of you help me, thanks in advance.

>>1957056
have you opened it up?

>>1957060

Yes, I opened.

There is something to check out? (like a cap or something?), youtube is not helping either (everyone is fixing the screen or modding it, but no one is repairing a dead one).

>>1957120
Do you have a multimeter?

>>1957145

No, if so, what to do next?

>>1957236
get a multimeter

>>1957243

Wow, thanks for nothing....fucktard

Anyways, there is someone who can help out, without being and asshole at the sametime? (Im not asking too much either).

>>1957282
How the hell you supposed to diagnose a electrical fault without any kind of measurement tool?
I don't know what fails often in the Gameboy that causes the fault, but i know how the Gameboy works electrically. So the first obvious steps would be to check the power rail.

>>1957297

How to?, need pics or something?

>>1957282
>how do i fix this?
do you have the right tool to measure what the problem might be?
>no, what next?
get that tool

what is the problem here anon?

>>1957316

>the GB doesn't turn on, no power at all, not even with the DC supply adaptor

>>1957314
I show you the points you have to measure.
Basically the 4 pins at the DC converter takes the battery voltage and outputs 5V and -19V and then you need to measure the closed resistance of the power switch and the voltage at this switch.
From that standpoint we can get clues of what could not cause the fault.
These are the most essential steps to diagnose any kind of electrical devices which do not "appear" to power up.

>>1957321
So get a multimeter and check the system.

Just wondering, is there a way to fix the overheating issues in early model PS1s other than flipping them over? I know the early models are practically pointless but is there something that can be done with them.

Currently trying to replace dead batteries in both a Game Boy and SNES cart. I don't own a soldering iron and I find trying to cut through these pegs with a razor blade so I can get the old battery out is VERY difficult. Any tips?

>>1957412
Soldering irons are pretty cheap.

>>1957798
I got it. So by buying the batteries and replacing them myself rather than having the local retro store do it for me I saved... exactly nothing. It was 6 dollars either way.
>mfw

A cheapass soldering kit at Radio Shack is around $10.

A cheap multimeter can be purchased for possibly less. I bought one for $3 to use as a backup for my bigass RSR 926.

Most problems with small electronics are obvious. Disfigured or broken pieces, places where the board looks broken, or where it looks like something broke off. Repairing low voltage electronics isn't as hard as it seems. You can learn all you need to know about basic electronic engineering online, for free. What resistors, capacitors, transistors, inductors, and diodes are, and how they work, and interact.

>>1957873
I was under the impression that you wanted to fix it yourself, given the fact you came here and asked for advice about it.

>>1957873
But one way you end up with a soldering iron and possibly a few spare batteries and the satisfaction of being able to do something on your own.

Does anyone know anywhere to get the Saturn region free bios chip?

>>1958563
I just use the Action Replay 4 in 1 cart.

Does the metal part on top of the pin connector in the original NES have a purpose? Just wondering if I should put it back

>>1958656
the RF shielding? I would put it back on, because why the fuck not.

>>1958667
It also might help keep out dust? I dunno

>>1958668
I'm assuming it helps with interference.
Put it back in.

So does anyone else own an Intellivision? If so, do you know why mines so god damn fucked? The sound is on and off, and the screen changes from color to black and what constantly and is ridiculously fuzzy. Pretty sure its the RF port but... You guys got anything?

>>1958670
Forgive if its a noob question, but would I have RF interference if nothing in the room used RF? Also, what would it do to my NES?

>>1958673
>fuzzy
probably RF
>>1958680
idk, guessing it's used to block signals, just put it the fuck back in. Why wouldn't you.

>>1958680
There's a lot of background radio interference basically anywhere. It's gone down since they stopped broadcasting analog TV signals, but it's still there.

>>1958690
They still broadcast digital TV signals, and you still have all kinds of electromagnetic radiation from other sources like radios, Doppler radar, and natural sources like the Sun. Analog TV was hardly the main source of EM interference.

>>1958778
Yeah, but you're not gonna be picking up a TV station anymore at least.

looking at buying a snes with a broken ac port

I think i'll end up paying between 15-20 for it, will it be an easy fix?

will the price of the cables and controllers make it not worth the effort?

>>1958928
Its an easy fix if you have soldering skills

http://www.amazon.com/SNES-Super-Nintendo-Power-Input-Jack/dp/B005RRRYOQ

>>1958937
ok cool

I needed and excuse to learn how to solder

>>1958928
Believe it or not, that will actually work without any alteration. I have one just like it, and all I have to do is plug it in.

>>1958990
This is true, except be aware that any movement will cause the plug to move, killing the connection and resetting your SNES.

By "any movement" I mean any of the following:
>breathing
>your neighbor from two doors down farting
>thinking too hardly
>wiggling your big toe
>hair growth
>flapping wings of a butterfly on the opposite side of the world

so basically, do it right and you'll never have an issue.

if the seven bucks is too much for the replacement rear panel you can use any plug and jack combo, just install it into the RF out hole (after removing the rf box) i used a 2.1mm jack and wired up a matching plug on a old power adapter that fit the specs

bump

So, how do I go about restoring a GB cartridge? Is there a place where I can find new carts and screws? Labels? Maybe just cleaning it up and re-applying the sticker?

whats a good screwdriver set for dealing with those annoying proprietary screw types?

I was looking at this one in particular

is this any good? I like how it has an extender included, I'm going to need that to take apart my gamecube and clean it

>>1961710
just based on amazon reviews, i'd keep looking

>>1961710
Pro's kit is pretty much the only thing you can get in my country, and I can sorta vouch for some of their products.

When using headphones on my GBC, I get very strong buzzing noise in background which seems to change depending on game(doesnt matter if its gb, gb&c or gbc game), but at most time I can hear it even when in-game music is playing.

This also happens with my GBA:sp(using official headphone adapter), but not nearly has strong and at lower volumes its not there, but my question is that is there any way to fix it on either system?

>>1961979
>buzzing noise in background which seems to change depending on game
See >>1949839 for the reason.
For the GBC you could do the 'Prosound mod', but it could also reduce the volume by a great deal.
I'm not sure what can be done with the GBA SP.

>>1961882
what else would you suggest?

>>1961710
I just use the triwing screwdriver I got with an old GBA parts kit, and two gamebits and a socket-driver. Total cost under $5 for all of it.

Let's talk about modding the Sega Virtua Stick Model HSS-0136 with Sanwa/Seimitsu parts.

Anybody have any experience doing this?

>>1963026
first result on google: http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/146714/sega-hss-0136-mod-work-log

looks annoying, buy a real stick

I bought an used GBP and thought about replacing the speaker just in case. Anybody knows if the Chink ones on eBay are good enough? Will they die on me after a month?

It's the ones with the '8Ω' stamp, pic related.

Is there any way to peel labels without ruining them? I want to clean and replace some yellow and damaged cartridges.

>>1964698
no. even if you could keep the paper intact, the ink and adhesive would be destroyed from the process.

>>1964707
Just tried it on a dead game I'd lying around and a hairdrier did the trick.

I melted the cartridge, literally, but the sticker came out pain-free, it didn't even ruin the glue.

>>1964995
reapplying it will look quite obvious, that's what i mean by destruction

My n64 games won't start unless I don't put the cartridge all the way in, and when it does, there's no sound and it crashes soon afterward. What could be the cause and what should I do?

>>1965264
Clean the contacts on your games and the cartridge slot.

>>1965271
with qtips and rubbing alcohol right?

>>1965283
For the games, yes.

For the cart slot, you put alcohol on a piece of fabric pulled over a credit card or something similar, and use it to scrub the contacts.

>>1965306
Would paper towels do for the cartridge slot or should I use the ones that comes with glasses case?

The AC adapter port is broken on my SNES. The little black piece that holds the plug correctly has disappeared somehow. I have to hold the cord up to make a good connection, and I have been keeping it taped up but sometimes the tape becomes lose and it loses connection during a game or something. It's pretty annoying. Any advice on how to fix it?

>>1965328
They sell the part on ebay, you need to know how to solder to replace it.

>>1965328
http://www.amazon.com/SNES-Super-Nintendo-Power-Input-Jack/dp/B005RRRYOQ

>>1963358
I don't see why you would have any problems with them. In my experience the gbc has the most problems with bad speakers.

>>1965334
>>1965338
You guys are awesome. I never would have expected this part to exist in any meaningful quantity. Thanks!

>>1965316
Use the fabric, paper towels would get destroyed in there.

>>1965328
You also need a 4.5 mm game bit.

>>1965348
Ah, good call. Grazi.

>>1965343
Thanks, going to try it now.

>>1965343
how long should I wait after I clean the cartridge slot before I test it?

>>1965389
Until it's dry. I don't have an estimate on that.

>>1965398
Thanks.

>>1965398
WORKS NOW, THANKS.

>>1965398
WORKS NOW, THANKS!

>>1965429
I thought this one got deleted, that's why I said it twice.

Why do my N64 games sometimes mutes, then crashes after a screen transition (such as going through a door in mario 64)?

>>1965490
Have you cleaned it recently?

See:
>>1965271
>>1965283
>>1965306

>>1965510
Yes, I cleaned it and it still happens.

>>1965526

Do these transitions always trigger it, or are they random?

>>1965548
The muting always seems random, but after it mutes it always crashes during a transition.

>>1965556
Do you have the tools to open it up?

>>1965565
No.

>>1965575
Well, currently my only recommendations involve opening it up and checking the board for anything odd, and seeing if the contacts between the cartridge connector and the board need cleaning, since they're generally removable as far as I remember.

>>1965589
Thanks for the advice.

>>1961506
Bumping this question.

>>1965490
Are you using an expansion pak or a jumper pak? Nintendo OEM or third-party?

>>1965624
expansion.

>>1965646
Have you tried cleaning those contacts? Do you have a spare first-party expansion or jumper pak you can test?

>>1965624
I'm not sure if its official, I got it sometime in the early 2000's, here's what it looks like. http://imgur.com/a/SRGr2

>>1965649
I'll look for my original jumper pack, honestly never thought that could be the problem.

>>1965652
That's third party man

>>1965665
Well shit, could it being 3rd party be the cause of my problems, also I should probably state that the games sometimes crash without the muting, and not during a transition.

>>1965665
Mario 64 hasn't muted since I put in the jumper pack, I I turned it on right after I posted the album, does this mean it was the expansion pak all along, and that I need to buy an official one?

>>1965652
Yeah that's definitely third-party like anon said. The official one has circular vents, and yours has elongated ones.

>>1965676
The reason I asked about it is because application crashes on any computer system can easily be caused by memory problems, and the expansion pak is really just RAM.

>>1965702
It could be, and this makes it seem very likely to me. The jumper pak has no RAM on it, it's just a bridge. If bypassing the potentially bad RAM on your expansion pak seems to fix the problem, it might be worth a shot to get an official expansion.

>>1965742
Looks like I got to go to ebay then!
It was still running when I posted this, so the expansion pak must be the case.

>>1965747
Good luck bro, hope it all works out.

>>1965753
The vents should be circles right?

>>1965757
Yeah but there are other signs too. It should have embossed Nintendo lettering on one side like this:

>>1965786
Thank!, I better start looking.

You know, when I recommended opening up the 64 to check the motherboard, I had completely forgotten that the expansion pak was a thing.

I really need this cold to go away, I'm losing my mind.

>>1965797
Drinking tea and eating some chicken noodle soup should help sooth some of the pain. As well as bedrest.

>>1965786
Looks like I have a 3rd party one too. It is weird, it caused gltiches in turok 2, the room would "reset". As in, everything would dissapear and then the walls would reload, enemies that you had killed/injured would respawn at full health. It only happened on one day though.

But the weird thing is, I had opened the pak up and the chips inside appeared to be from the official one. So I don't understand. I'm really paranoid, is my n64 forever ruined to the point where even the official one won't get the same performance? Please hold me.

>>1941865
You can always use a different power supply with any console as long as everything lines up. The only thing you should make sure of that its not completely shitty like an incredibly generic chinese power supply, but even then they can be just fine. If need be get a multimeter and test the voltages and amperage.

>>1965621
Well, the GB Everdrive comes with a GB cart shell, so I assume SOMEONE makes replacement shells. Screws are another matter, but should be source-able.

>>1966078
>Nintondo

>>1966195
>GAME

>>1966195
>>1966209
I tried looking for replacement shells but the few places selling them had the GAME logo. I guess I'll just have to hunt for bargains for carts in good condition.

What about the labels, though? Is there any way to remove them? Does the hairblower thing actually work?

>>1966462
when i removed labels from shit sport games to use with my everdrives i did the following and it worked like a fucking charm.

>unscrew
>remove pcb
>put label side of shell face down in low dish
>add isoproply alcohol until covering shell half
>wait

i left them soak for about an hour, they peeled right off with no damage to the shell.

oddly, the coloring didn't really run either, i could probably have air dried the peeled labels and reused them. of course the glue is toast.

>>1966473
I'm worried about damaging the labels, actually. I want to replace the shell but reuse the labels as some of them are hard to come by.

>>1966482
oh, then don't do that method since the colors have a huge chance of fading.

mine didn't but maybe i just had the perfect soak time.

i used to use a hot air gun/hair dryer to peel the void labels off the back of ps2's to do the walmart swap, i'm not proud. so maybe you can try that.

>>1965341
Really? Because those things are almost 20 years old. I wanted to replace the speaker just in case it was dying.

Anyone have any experience with the ones being sold on eBay?

>destructive restoration
>cannibalistic refurbishment
Someday shovelware and sports games will be the rarest, most in-demand games on the planet.

>>1966739
I've got some maddens I'd like to sell you. In ten years you'll be rich.

I want to bivert my Game Boy, does anybody here have any experience biverting their MGB?

I read it'll be harder to make out the details in the screen under a light source. I can't find a custom PCB (like HexV1) so I bought a 74HC04 chip, is there a difference?

I bought a SNES the other day that won't play games unless I put something (a piece of cardboard, paper, etc) in front of the cartridge to keep it pushed in place, then it works perfectly. For some reason Super Mario World plays perfectly though without doing this. With every other game I have to do this so I know its the system. Are there any fixes for this?

>>1968453
Clean games and system.

>>1968398
As far as the logic there's no difference between using all 6 pins on the dual invert on a Hex board or only 6 pins of a 74HC04. I don't know about performance because I don't know exactly what chip the Hex board uses. HC chips are about the slowest you can find. Shouldn't be an issue on a GB screen, which is visibly slow.
The main benefit of using a hex inverter is it will give people a modgasam because people have a serious fetish for using them where they're not needed.

>>1969349
>the main benefit of using a hex inverter is it will give people a modgasam

What about the increased contrast? It's mainly why I wanted to bivert it. I'm a graphics whore.

Hey guys, I live in a PAL region so I decided to do a SNES 50/60hz and region mod. I have one question about the region mod.

Should my PAL games run in both region lock settings (enabled & disabled)?

>>1965938
How about using something like this one?

>>1969764
Looks okay. Just pay close attention to the polarity of the connector before using it. The lower configuration of the tip is what you want for Sega systems. Negative on the tip.

>>1969515
>Should my PAL games run in both region lock settings
Almost, the reason why you should add this switch instead of perma disabling the CIC is because SA-1 and S-DD1 games require the right CIC lock in the console and refuse to work if it's not the case.

>>1970289

So some games work in both and other don't?

>>1970352
Yes.

>>1969397
A "biversion" involves putting one inverter between each of two two signals for a total of two inverters. Hence the "bi" part of the "biversion". Having an additional 4 unused inverters in the IC package you use makes no difference. An analogy would be buying a carton of half a dozen eggs and using two of them to make an omelet. The omelet would be the same if you only bought the two eggs you needed. The extra 4 eggs sitting in the fridge won't affect your omelet in ay way.

Any "contrast" will be the same regardless of what type of inverter you use. The only possible issue would be response time which will be faster or slower depending on what type of component you use. Given that the GB already has some of the most astounding motion blur possible I doubt a slower inverter would be an issue. If you find it is buy a faster part.

>>1970364
http://www.instructables.com/id/Game-Boy-BivertBiversion-Moditication/

>This modification will improve the contrast of your LCD for your original Game Boy DMG

It's the first result if you Google 'GB biversion'. There's a dozen more, all of them citing improved contrast.

>>1970364
>Given that the GB already has some of the most astounding motion blur possible I doubt a slower inverter would be an issue
'motion blur' has nothing to do with the display signals, it's rather a artifact caused by that 'old' LCD itself.
If the inverter couldn't keep up with the data signals then you would get a 'corrupted' picture caused by the loss of information.
However, the pixel clock of the GB is about the system clock with 4.194303mhz, most 7400 logic families can keep up with that. So just go for 74HC, these can do up to 25mhz and the delay of up to 10ns shouldn't be a problem as a period of 4mhz is about 250ns long.

>>1970362

Ok cool. I will test a SFC game when it arrives in the mail. Fingers crossed it works.

>>1970374
>http://www.instructables.com/id/Game-Boy-BivertBiversion-Moditication/
>Leaving the unused input pins floating.
This guy is retarded, the unused inputs could pick up noise and which can lead to malfunctions or possible destruction of the logic IC.
Never leave unused logic inputs floating unless you know that it has internal pullup/down resistors, always tie to ground or power when not used.

>>1970374
There's always that one kid who jumps into a conversation without reading/understanding it.

>>1970379
I never said the GB's motion blur was caused by slow signals just that it was unlikely that speed would be an issue given the slow display.

>>1970398
>expecting someone who uses a DIP14 hex inverter in a GB mod to tie the unused pins.

How fast can a Nintendo 64 AC adapter fail?

Earlier today I was playing on my N64 just fine. Just now I tried it on a different N64 (which I had just opened and cleaned all day today), and I got no power. I figured I fucked something up while cleaning, but when I tried the adapter on the original N64, it failed as well. Despite working earlier today...

It was plugged in the whole time, if that matters. What the fuck?

Has anyone in here ever used the retrobright method on yellowing SFC games?

Does it work well? How much are UV lights, and is it worth it or should I just leave 'em out in the sun?

>>1971575
>How fast can a Nintendo 64 AC adapter fail?

40km/h.

>>1971478
What do you recommend, then? 74HC04 improves the contrast on the screen if you invert the polarizer, gets the job done, that's why people use it.

>>1971640
I recommend something you're confident you can do. If you don't understand the mod then don't try to mod the mod. Just choose the instructions with the pictures you find easiest to follow and use whatever they use.

When you've gained a little more experince/knowlege you might try using a SOT363 74LVC2G04 to make a mod that looks like it came that way from the factory.

>>1971478
I've heard people complaining about SMDs simply not working. Then again, it could've been caused by crappy soldering.

>>1970398
I've also heard people saying grounding the unused inputs caused artifacts on their screen. Isolation tape should be enough.

Just pulled out my scph-7501 ps1 out of my storage room, cleaned it, put a mint copy of ff7 and booted up, and the screen keeps gliching out on the 2nd ps splash screen, anyone know whats happening here? ive tried multipe discs to no avail

>>1971854
It is true that there are a lot of people out there talking total BS. But it usually only takes a bit of common sense to sort through it.

If they're saying something riduculous such as "SMDs don't work" just think about what they are saying. There are countless trillions of SMDs working just fine right this second. It's obvious they're a complete idiot. You can just discount anything they've ever said.

As for tying unused pins, when someone complains about trying to copy someones mod and it not working it doesn't take a genius to figure out he's doing it wrong. No rational person would assume the kid learning to solder was right and the engineer who originally developed the mod was wrong. inb4 implying there are rational people in the internet

>>1970398
>>1971854
>>1972248
...so what do I do with the unused input pins? The mod creator says to either leave them floating or ground them (mikejmoffitt.com/wp/?p=14) but, if Google is to be trusted, this might cause some problems: circuit-board.de/forum/index.php/Thread/12507-Gameboy-Pocket-Bivert-Probleme/

Can I really just cover the chip in insulating tape? Will this work?

>>1972149
Bad GTE? It's in the same IC as the rest of the CPU, so it's unlikely, but that's what it looks like. See if you can find any diagnostic discs online.

>>1971591
I did it on lot of systems and once on an european SNES cartridge which had yellow spotmarks on both sides, it worked just fine but be extra careful when putting the mixture on your cart as it can damage the labels (front and rear). When I use retrobright I just leave the things out in the sun but be sure that it will be sunny for ~3 hours, I found that light interruptions will slow the process and won't give a good as new impression

>>1972295
I don't see anything about leaving them floating in fact his drawing clearly shows all unused pins tied low.
In the German thread someone points out that tying both the inputs and outputs of an inverter low is retarded because the inverter will make the output high. He recommends removing the output pins 6, 8, 10, 12 from ground and leaving pins 5, 9, 11, 13 grounded.

I can confirm
1. these are the correct pins for input and output.
2. tying the the inputs and outputs to the same thing is, in fact, retarded
3. typing pins 5, 9, 11, 13 is a very important step in making this work reliably
4. tape won't change any of this

Consider tying the outputs to the opposite of whatever you tie the input to.

>>1972406
>not needed but okay

I think I got it now, though. Thanks. Just one more thing, and it's probably irrelevant, but can I wire 13 to 11, 11 to 9, 9 to 5, 5 to 7 and finally 7 to ground? Is this the correct way to do it in order to avoid a mess?

>>1972416
No problem wiring them like that. Try prototype wire if you want to keep it as neat as possible.

>>1950602
Heres a look at a non pirated Zero Mission's internals. GBA games don't use batteries to save, minus the RSE for time purposes.

>>1972480
Ah, so Walmart sells pirated GBA games?

>>1972480
so you can see if they are authentic by looking at the internals to see if there is a battery?

>>1972480
>GBA games don't use batteries to save
>>1972497


some games have batteries, legit games.

also, some metroids do and some don't...

gba battery =/= pirated cart

>>1972480
Cool story bro

>>1971854
>I've also heard people saying grounding the unused inputs caused artifacts on their screen
Wow, i don't wanna know how bad they fucked up. But i took a 2nd look at the worse-than-amateur-engineering mod and realized that the dumbass forgot the decoupling capacitor, this is especially terrible if the IC is connected via long wires.

>>1972295
Connect the unused pins to power or ground and put a capacitor 10-100nF between the power and ground pin, and try to keep your wires short.
Don't leave them floating, mysterious analogue effects are difficult to diagnose.

>>1971575
Unplug it from the wall and let it 'rest' for at least 10 minutes. If it works then something tripped the protection circuit, a shortcircuit could do that.
Check the cartridge slot for foreign metal objects and the cables of your controllers (they could shortcut 3.3V).

>>1950537
Frosty Solder Job, Needs to be shiny for a good connection bro.

>>1950032
That is pretty cool man, thanks for sharing.

>>1972874
It's normal for lead-free to look frosty, so you can't tell just from a picture.

>>1950561
Isopropyl Alcohol 90% to clean the residue, and use 60/40 Rosin Core Solder, Near 20 Gauge. NEVER USE ACID CORE SOLDER

>>1972886
European?

looking to break into xbox modding. what's the best chip to get and where can i find it?

i also want to do the usb softmod, but i don't have any compatible flash drives laying around. is there a more modern and easy to find flash drive that will work?

friendly retro-only reminder
board rules

>>1973228
Post on the wiki message board about non-retro stuff. Let us know in a post here.

I've been trying to get people do do this for a while, but I guess people don't actually care enough about what they're doing.

>>1972763

Nintendo AC adapter guy here.

This is quite the mystery. I went out and bought a second AC adapter to verify the problem, and it appears the same exact thing happens when I use the new AC adapter. The original console will power on, but when I try to power on the one I cleaned yesterday it won't work. Then when I move it back to the original console it won't power on either. After I wait 20 minutes or so it is reset and I can do the process over.

Clearly there is something wrong with the second N64.

Alright guys I got a problem you might be able to help me on, some months ago I picked up some N64s and a stack of games.
Other than needing a cleaning most everything worked just fine excluding one copy of Mario Kart 64, I opened up found finding it was a 3/4 cart version and no specific abnormalities.
I've tried it on 4 different systems and can't get it to play, I turn it on, the screen turns black as if it's starting and then nothing. I have no idea what could be the issue.

Is there any way to fix an RF adapter?

Mine cut out on me while playing NES on my LCD TV. The other 2 I own from my SNES and N64 appear to not work, as they wouldn't even give a signal.

Thoughts?

>>1972505
how can i tell if my games are legit then

>>1974103
How thoroughly did you clean it? If it is super grungy at the pins, you might want to try some stove top cleaner in addition to standard isopropyl.

I am thinking about doing the Dreamcast bios mod, but I am worried that I am going to screw something up in the instructions. I have a VA0 model and most people have the VA1, and I am a little worried about accidentally getting the directions mixed up. I've repaired an Atari 2600 and modded a Gamecube before so I know how to solder, although I just want to make sure the new chip actually works before I go through the mess of putting the system back together.

How hard is it to get a Dreamcast running without completely re-assembling it? I really don'y want to take it apart more times than necessary. I also want to get several other mods / repairs out of the way while it's disassembled, like putting grease on the GD ROM drive gears, replacing the dead CMOS battery with a replaceable battery holder, and last but not least, I want to use Retrobright on the whole console and use a magic eraser to remove some black scuff marks that have been there ever since I bought it from my friend in late 1999 (my DC is actually third-hand, and I still managed to get it during launch year). Also, I heard something somewhere about how you should cut the power to the new Bios chip after its working, because having power running to it might wear it out or something, and it only needs it during the initial setup?

I'm also planning on hiding the BIOS switch behind the modem because 1) I don't want it accidentally getting switched while the thing is on, and 2) I think a more discreet mod is cooler.

>>1974383
For gba games Nintendo in printed in white above the contacts. Also the label will have 2 random numbers stamped into it.

>>1974464

2 random numbers?

>>1974403

It worked before I took it apart. After I put it back together, I began having the problem I have now.

I'm thinking I could have put those stupid metal brackets in the wrong way, but I just don't think that would cause a total failure. What really doesn't make sense to me is why the AC adapter just shuts down after trying to power it on.

>>1974403
It's clean enough to eat off of and I'm assuming since I'm getting a black screen the console is able to access it in some form but it just won't play the game.

>>1974470
http://gbatemp.net/threads/identifying-fake-gba-games-a-useful-faq.327354/

New to retro, new to SNES, I snipped the tabs in my cartridge slot and is there anything else I need to do to play SFC games? Is there any additional region locks for JP games to US systems I need to know about? I know PAL systems need some work to get working right but aside from the simplistic physical obstruction being removed are there any other things I need to do?

>>1975332
That's all you need to do.

>>1975635

Thanks friend.

/vr/ has been so helpful

>>1975306
thanks a lot!

>>1975332
>>1975635
>>1975650
I remember when I found a copy of Godzilla Monster Battles at MAGfest a few years ago, and how giddy I was to finally have a reason to clip the tabs on my SNES. I will do the same to my N64 if I ever find a copy of Sin & Punishment at a reasonable price.

I can't for the life of me find an original snes power adapter in my local retro stores

Should I buy a made in China one or pay up for an original on eBay?

>>1975824
Man it really sucks and I feel your pain. Stock up on them if you see em cheap because ebay wants $15-$20 + shipping usually. The 3rd party power adapters suck ass. They're all made to work with the nes and genesis model 2 too so they usually only provide 9v and some random amps. SNES really needs the original adapter putting out 10v 850ma. So many of these third party adapters give you really weird screen glitches or just don't power on. I wouldn't trust them for nothing, especially if there's a power surge.
Now you might get lucky and find an older third party power adapter for cheap. I'm told those tend to be not as shit. Like the ones from Performance or radio shack.
I was in the same position till I found 2 good ones in my parts box.

Question. I have a PAL megadrive 1 (VA6) which I switch modded to pal/usa/jp modes. I'm using RGB Scart cables from Retro Computer Shack (I have yet to check whether they are wired to use composite or c-sync).

The problem is, every once in a while the screen goes out of sync. Or sometimes, it stabilizes to a bit too much to the left. This is when playing in 60hz mode - haven't tried in 50hz mode (and why should I).

What is the problem? Machine needs to be recapped and that's all?

>>1975937
Also, the colour contrast is somewhat duller on the PAL machine and sometimes the colour loses intensity ever so slightly. That is, compared to my Japanese launch model.

Only other mod this PAL model has is that I removed one of the smd caps to get rid of jailbars.

So can someone enlighten me on the benefits of installing a 50/60hz switch on a console? If I import a game from a PAL territory, with the mod essentially force the game to run on my 60hz TV when I throw a switch?

>>1975979
>So can someone enlighten me on the benefits of installing a 50/60hz switch on a console?
PAL shit gets to run good shit.
Nothing but problems if you live in ntsc land.

>>1975984
So is it pointless to try and force 60hz on a pal region game?

>>1975989
Beats me I don't mess with that shit. I assume you mean on a snes? Probably just make the PAL game run faster.

>>1975989
>So is it pointless to try and force 60hz on a pal region game?

It depends on whether the game in question was PAL optimized. If it was, it will either run too fast, or it 1ill have part of the screen cut off, or both.

If it was not optimized in anyway (which is the majority of titles), then running those in 60hz should give you no differences - although sometimes optimizations can be subtle (like timers working differently).

For games where you know that they have the exact same ROM in pal and usa carts, importing the PAL carts and running them on NTSC machines should be the same as if you were playing a US copy.

It is also different from console to console as well, sometimes 50/60hz differences go FAR deeper than just the refresh rate.

I bought an S-Video cable for my N64 (PAL) but no matter what I do with the TV settings it's way to bright.

Anyone knows whats up? Doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the cables since they work with my Super Famicom.

>>1976621
PAL N64s don't do S-Video well, you need to modify your cable. Or buy a modified cable online.
http://www.robwebb1.plus.com/n64/n64.htm

So today I finally fixed my PS2's noisy disc drive and gave the bearings a fresh coat of SuperLube while I had it open. It used to make an awful grinding sound when I turned it on played games but now it's whisper quiet. I should try lubing up my Dreamcast's drive next.

I also tried cleaning my controller, but unfortunately it's still an unresponsive piece of shit that barely works. Protip: when you buy a used console from a game shop and they say "it includes a controller," what they really mean is "it includes one of the controllers that was too shitty for us to put on the shelf." I even found a band aid inside of there that was used by someone's hackjob repair an age ago. I have no idea how someone could abuse a controller that horribly, but in any case I think it's time to buy a new one.

>>1976687
Well damn. I wasted my money on this cable then.

I'll look into getting one of those modded ones next week, thanks for the link man.

>>1976816
without googling, IIRC, it's just a couple resistors and capacitors. You can do it to your cable you have now.

Think this is worth fixing? Came in a bundle with an SNES advantage and was priced about the same as just the SNES advantage so I figured what the hell.

I could use it as my actual desk one and have a skeleton SNES. Or should I just try and frankenstein it together and mod it some how. A lot of the plastic is broken off the top shell (like an entire strip where it would butt up with the bottom part), but the bottom shell seems ok.

Otherwise I guess its just get the screws out and super glue it together unless someone has any ideas?

>>1977697
Meh not a fan of doing much with yellow snes. I assume you're the guy that was asking about 1chips in the other thread?
Maybe make a custom case if you're skilled enough in that kind of area.

>>1977697
Keep it as parts.

Take everything that hasn't yellowed off the yellowed shell. You'll never know when you or someone you know will need them.

The yellowed stuff will be super brittle at this point, so you might as well just junk it.

>>1977738
Yeah it looks like a bunch of shit has already broken off from the pic, so it's beyond saving at this point. If it hadn't reached the point of breaking it would be a candidate for Retrobright, but if it's already broken there's not much point.

It's worth noting that Retrobright restores the strength of plastic significantly, and the benefits of de-yellowing a console are beyond cosmetic. Of course, that doesn't really matter if big pieces have already broken off.

>>1977773
Yeah I opened up the box today to find the SNES Advantage on the bottom, turbo controller thrown in, and the SNES deck just thrown on top, literally nothing in between.

I messaged the guy saying that was unacceptable and I'm almost positive it was broken in shipping due to the way it was packed. I'm honestly surprised the Advantage works, although theres a bit of rust under the screw thats below the cord.

He'll probably give me a partial refund out of it.

>>1977783
If you're just giving it away I'll take it.

>>1977789
I bet, too bad I'm not gonna give it away for free.

>>1977839
If you're interested and live in America send me an emial. Let me know what you want for it.
ultra64fan@gmail.com

Has anyone found any well documented examples of or instructions for installing a "piggybacked" BIOS chip on a Sega Saturn? I've been looking for a few hours and haven't really found any info that would be helpful enough for me to do the mod myself the way I want it.

It seems like a neat mod but most people just opt to remove the real Bios chip and install a region-free one. I would prefer to keep the original BIOS chip on the motherboard, and have a physical switch for changing between the American BIOS and the region-free one. I don't trust the longevity of flashed chips, and I don't like the boot sequence that the region-free Bios uses either. Pic related is one of the only visual examples I've seen of a piggybacked bios chip in a Saturn, and it was through Google's image archives. I've seen written anecdotes of people who installed the chip this way, but they do not give any directions for how they did it.

Piggybacked custom BIOS chips are common on Dreamcast, but for some reason barely anyone seems to be doing them for Saturn. I guess they have a lot of faith in the longevity of those chips and don't mind the nails-on-chalkboard sound of the Japanese bootup sequence.

any of you guys care to help a nigga out? I'm looking to replace the power jack on my snes and I have a few questions.

1. whats a good guide to use?
2. whats the best soldering iron and solder to use?
3. what are some good soldering guides?

keep in mind I've never soldered anything before so this is my first time and I don't know squat.

also if one of you could send me a broken donor snes with a good jack that would be greatly appreciated. I'm broke atm and can't afford to buy one

>>1977957
You can buy rear panels on ebay for like $10.

>>1977963
broke

i have like 2 dollars left in my checking. i don't get money untill the 5th

>>1977971
You may as well wait then. Buying proper solder equipment costs money to get into.

>>1977971
Just draw a shitty porn commission and you'll have plenty of cash.

>>1977972
my employer has soldering equipment, and so does my dad. one of them is bound to have the right stuff for the job

>>1977983
If it's for electronics then probably. If it's for pipes or something else then probably not.

>>1977984
I intern at a small computer repair place. so it's more then likely for electronics and such. I figure my dads is the same since he used to do some soldering on electronics as well

basically, I have the tools for the job already available to me for free, I just need to learn the ins and out's of soldering and get a replacement power jack.

also I'm aware that you need to use a certain kind of solder otherwise you might ruin the connections or something, is this true?

>>1977998
>also I'm aware that you need to use a certain kind of solder otherwise you might ruin the connections or something, is this true?
Ya 60/40 rosin-flux core really small diameter.

>>1978002
how small is really smal

>>1978008
.015"

>>1978010
that's pretty small

so what about guides? know any good ones?

>>1978060
It doesn't "need" to be that small. Just helps. I'm no pro and I'm just starting out.
This page helped me http://retrorgb.com/tools.html

>>1977876
After doing a bit more research it would seem that a better option than piggybacking would be to desolder the old chip, solder on some extension wires, and then solder a socket onto the extension wires. That way, the BIOS chip can easily be removed, re-flashed, and re-installed at any time with little effort. Hopefully it's possible to get the stock BIOS chip off without damaging it, since it would be nice to keep it around in case something happens to the flashed chip.

The model for the socket needed is Yamaichi IC179Z-44600-500, if anyone is curious. There isn't enough room on the motherboard to attach it directly, but with extension wires it would be doable. Seems like a much safer and more reverseable solution than soldering a flash chip directly to the Saturn's mobo.

>>1977876
No. And everything looks like that FSM spawn in your pic. It should be easy enough to do it neatly though. I modded a Mega CD in a similar way and it worked great. I've been planning on doing it on one of my Saturns so I have it all worked out. Just haven't had the time to actually do it. They key is finding a part that matches the original pinout as close as possible. The MX29F800T/B is a good fit although it's larger than the original both in capacity and pin count. 40 pins line up. Using a higher capacity chip also means you can put more than one BIOS on it. I did that with my Mega CD mod.
The mod will go like this:
Lift the CE on the bios. Pin 12 on the flash and pin 10 on the original
Piggy back the flash on the bios, aligned right. The CE pins should line up and pins 1,2,43,44 will be hanging over the edge of the original bios
Connect RESET and WE (pin 43,44) to VCC. Pin 23 is VCC if you want to use that
Wire a 3 pole switch to the two CE pins and the pad on the board. This switches between the on board bios and the flash bios
Wire a 3 pole switch to VCC and GND and pin 2. This switches between the two bioses in the flash. If you only want one bios wire it to GND

That's all there is to it and it will look a lot nicer than the monstrosities I've seen.

>>1978283
That actually sounds a lot more straightforward than I had been led to believe initially. Where can I find diagrams of the bios chip so that I'll have some idea what I'll be looking at when I take the plunge? Also, would it be prudent to piggyback a socket onto the original BIOS rather than soldering directly, like I suggested in >>1978081 ? I am thinking that would save me a lot of headaches if I ever need to remove the custom chip for some reason.

Also, thank you for your response!

>>1978293
Using the right flash chip is the key to making the mod easy. If I just used some random eprom I'd have a wiring jungle as well. I usually work off the Sega service manual for diagrams, pinouts, etc. Also, all my Saturns are Japanese and I don't know if there was any difference for U/E models. The bios is a SOP40 on the bottom side of the PCB. Under the lower right hand corner if your facing the front of the console. Mine is labeled MPR-17940. Yours will be different but similar. I think it should be MPR-17941. There aren't any components right up against the ROM so you might be able to put a socket right on the board. You might also be able to put the wiring for the extra pins on the flash inside. Then you could use either the original chip or the flash chip in the same socket. But like I said, it's on the bottom of the PCB so you basically have to completely dissemble the console to get at the chip It's not something you'll be changing often.

>>1978490
My saturn is a US Model 2 and I'm pretty sure that the BIOS chip is on the topside of the topside, though I have not opened mine up yet to find out. The EEPROM I plan on using is the region-free version of the US Bios, though I will have to order it flashed from someone else since I don't have flashing tools and I don't know how to use them.

Hello everyone.

So I av modded my top loader, and I think I fucked it up. This is what the picture looks like. I tried doing the mod where you build the amp circuit, and I did not get any video. Audio works fine. So then I tried the simpler version where you get video from a solder point under the board.

What could be the issue? Bad caps? Resistors?

>>1979207
Does the rf work?

>>1979207
Tried rf. the screen does change slightly, like it recognizes its turned on, but its still all staticky and has no audio.

>>1979221
Well assuming you're not using a trash power supply I guess it could be caps. Idk why anyone mods these things with out first replacing caps though...
Weird you get a messed up picture with AV and just satic with RF. I think you may have more messed up with that nes put you can't tell with out testing it. I'm looking at this blind and I have no idea what your mod looks like either so.

I recently got this NES from a friend who says it didn't work (won't turn on). I thought it was the voltage regulator 7805, but when I opened it up I found this.

That middle cable was loosened by me while examining carelessly.

Anybody knows what is this supposed to do?

>>1979432
They are connected here.

Can I just solder the RF modulator like it was supposed to be, why would anybody do this?

>>1979432
This is defiantly not stock.
Looks like someone removed the RF box carelessly and damaged the vias (interconnection from both circuit board sides).
Then he fixed it (badly) by bridging them.

>>1979453
Forgot to post this link:
http://console5.com/wiki/Nintendo_NES-001

>>1978558
If the bios is on the top then adding a socket for swapping is more viable. It really depends on whether there's enough space around the chip. If you're getting someone else to flash the chip you'll need to find someone who can flash the right chip. If all they do is DIP eproms then you're back to running a few dozen wires.

>>1979432
>>1979439
>>1979453
>>1979456

So, I soldered that lose cable back on and changed the voltage regulator, now it actually turns on, but there isn't anything on the screen, if I use the RF cable I just get a black screen and no sound, but if I use the RCA I have the same blue screen of the input channel but I can hear the music. What do /vr/?

>>1979227
That reminds me, I probably should do a recap on my AV modded Toploader since it still has the jailbar issue even though I isolated PPU pin 21.

>>1979798
There's a guy on Assembler Games who flashes Saturn chips who seems reputable. Most people want the modded Japanese bios, but I want the modded American one which is a bit unusual. I should send him a message and get a quote.

>>1979908
How can I check if my PPU is still working?

I have a multimeter but I don't know what any of those numbers and signs means.

>>1982119
Replace it with a known good one.
Also if it gets really hot then it's definitely dead.

If you got sound then maybe it's the pin connector?

>>1982119
That sort of task is better suited to an oscilloscope, but even I don't have one. Seven years out of college, and my degree is still worthless! Hah!

I spotted FZ-1 3DO which doesn't get any power for 25$ (+85$ for shipping), so are they easy to repair or should i skip it and try to look some more expensive one which works?
I also live in country where there aren't really any 3DO's around, so the shipping costs will be a lot.

I spotted 2 FZ-1 3DO one doesn't get any power for 25$ (+85$ for shipping), and other one doesn't get audio and costs 111,80$ with shipping. So is neither of them easy to repair or should i skip them and try to look some more expensive one which works?
I also live in country where there aren't really any 3DO's around, so the shipping costs will be a lot.

>>1978293
>>1979798
I think your best bet would be getting a launch model which has a DIP boot rom, you can just add a socket to that and change out the ROM as you need. Maybe even use a bigger chip and solder the extra address legs to a switch so the machine can have multiple boot roms.

I don't know from the top of my head whether you can add multiple bios data into one chip, though. I mean, you can, if the chip is big enough. But I don't know how the Saturn will behave. If the boot rom has more than 18 address lines soldered to it, it could very well access more than 512k - on the standard boot rom this is not a problem because it will just mirror its own contents.

>>1983025
Actually nevermind that. I just checked - Saturn boot roms only have 40 legs in all models and only 18 address lines (A0 to A17), so the machine can only access 512k at any times.

So yeah, you could, in theory, add some switches to the extra data lines to have yourself a 2-in-1 bios. Even a 4-in-1 but for that you'd need a TSOP socket installed since as far as I know there are no SOIC or DIP flash roms bigger than 1mbyte.

>>1983043
The idea behind wanting a toggle switch between the stock and custom BIOS, for me at least, is that if anything goes wrong with the custom bios then the stock one will still be there chugging along as it always has, so having multiple BIOS options on the same custom chip is kind of a moot point for me. The custom BIOS I plan to use is a region-free version of the North American BIOS, so it will look and function just like the standard one except region-free. Maybe my fear of the custom BIOS failing is irrational, but I am of the "better safe than sorry" school of thought. Also, I especially like the idea of having a socket, because if for some reason someone one day makes a custom BIOS that makes every other method for playing backups and imports obsolete, being able to just pop out the old chip without doing any soldering would be great. I'm not sure how likely that is to ever happen, but even so I think a bit of future-proofing wouldn't be a bad idea.

I got a NES Top Loader that don't seems to work, I turn it on and I don't see anything but the static of the tv, I don't even know if its turning on or not.

I already changed the 7805 and still nothing, what else could it be?

It isn't modded, I'm using the RF cable and the original AC adapter.

>>1983314
Have you checked that the CPU/PPU are getting power?

>>1982978
Power issues aren't too hard to deal with, since blown caps and fuses are all that really go wrong with the inverter boards that supply the system with DC voltage. That said, I have two 3DOs (Goldstar and the FZ-10), and all I have ever done since I bought them on evilBay is play one track in Need for Speed.

If the power board is blown, it's possible the rest of the system could have been fragged, too. Just make sure you REALLY want to get a 3DO, because most of the games for it had also been made for Saturn and PSX.

>>1983328
So i should grab the one which doesn't get any power?
Do you know anything about audio problems?

>Just make sure you REALLY want to get a 3DO, because most of the games for it had also been made for Saturn and PSX.

Well, i have wanted 3DO for 6-12 months now, i'm also collector kind of person, so even if i don't play it too much i still get happiness from owning it. I also like repairing consoles.And if i can grab it for that ~110$ and get it fixed i could sell it for 125-187$.

Anybody have experience replacing a psp shell? How difficult is it?

>>1983317
How do I do that?

>>1983391
Wait for a working one. Like I hinted, the lack of power could mean it was killed by a power surge, and a fuse isn't going to save everything by blowing; they just prevent fire.

>>1983451
Check the voltage difference between the VCC and ground leads? An o-scope would REALLY help in seeing if any of the CPU leads are putting out a signal of any sort.

>>1983447
Front shell is easy, back is hard due UMD drive and its hinge. But as long as you dont rush it and do your research before taking it apart it shouldnt be too hard.

>>1983447
It's not terribly hard. Just make extra sure that you don't strip any screwholes on the new case.

>>1983463
You don't know anything about audio problems?
Other one works fine, except there isn't any audio.

>>1983487
Audio problems in most game systems arise from blown capacitors. Seems to be the one most likely to be repairable from limited information.

This might sound stupid, and I thought I'd ask here before I started experimenting.

If I add a rechargeable battery to an old cart (NES, SNES, Genesis, etc.) will it charge while I play or does this kill the cart?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FiJL27Jy-rI

Lukemorse made a consolised gamegear, found a 20 minute video about it. The only shame is that he feels the need to spend half the video explaining that every part he used was from a broken system that he'd tried to save, because apparently the old games community is full of plastic-worshipping professional umbrage-takers.

Why can't just say "This stuff was mine, fuck you if you have a problem with it" ?
Why are old games thought of as community property that you're holding onto for the moment?

>>1983848
Without drawing power from the NES through some sort of add-on proprietary connection for your games, there wouldn't be a way to charge the battery. Not recommended. A CR2032 lasts DECADES in a game cartridge, and they cost a dollar. Rechargeable cells fuck off after so many cycles.

>>1983849
Because retro gaming is new and we are trying our hardest as a community to not fallow into the same mistakes made by toy collecting for example. Like scavenging toys for parts to make more desirable ones.

>>1983848
This kills the game

They where never made with rechargeable batteries in mind and it will eventually fail if not immediately start giving you problems

>>1983848
No. There is no power input to the battery when the system is running.

>>1983849
Apparently there is also a sect of retro gamers that get pissy about anyone modding their consoles for RGB output or anything like that as well. I know the word "entitled" gets thrown around a lot, but it actually applies here. Motherfuckers acting like they collectively own all the old consoles out there.

Anyone know anything about genesis repairs? I have a model 1 that randomly freezes up to a couple seconds after startup. Sometimes it just freezes and sometimes it freezes with glitchy artifacts. I've opened it up and haven't seen any blown capacitors or anything like that.

>>1983894
To be fair most people are complete hacks and just end up wrecking the console.

>>1983906
It's their console to ruin though

>>1983907
That's no excuse. I can go take a NES and throw it off a cliff. It's my console. Wouldn't make me any less of an asshole.

>>1983916
You're not an asshole for doing that, unless you specifically do it to piss people off, which is a totally different matter.

>>1983919
Destroying something that's collectable and wanted/loved by many is being an asshole.

If you want to rgb mod a nes the right way then go for it. I have two nes waiting for nesrgb mods personally.