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/vr/ - Retro Games


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File: 101 KB, 684x629, Gtw_mario.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1862003 No.1862003 [Reply] [Original]

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

Bring your repair and mod questions here!

Please add your technical knowledge to the wiki to better help your fellow anons. GTW needs more contributors! Share your suggestions to improve the wiki here.

>> No.1862168
File: 1.22 MB, 2592x1936, IMG_0734.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1862168

I have 2 PSOnes and no one works.

One looks like pic related for some reason, the camera couldn't even focus, I tried with like 5 different cables and different tv's, my PVM it's the one that looks better, but still.

And the other just won't turn on, the AC adapter broke and while I was looking for another my little brother tried with another adapter he found in the house, it had more voltage than the PSOne needs so he probably burned the fuse, the problem is; I don't know what fuse I should replace, I don't have a multimeter.

What should I do /vr/?

>> No.1862475
File: 314 KB, 886x714, 2014-08-14 17.25.07.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1862475

So I've been trying to fix my model 2 Genesis' reset button by cleaning the rubber contact and I have absolutely no clue how to put it back.

I've been trying for the last 15 minutes to slide it slowly in place but it keeps popping out of one side and I'm back to square one.

Is there a trick to getting this back inside or did I completely fuck up by even taking it out to clean it?

>> No.1862482

>>1862475
Put it in place of the top cover where it should mount somewhat more securely and then push the bottom part onto the top?

>> No.1862487

>>1862168
>I don't have a multimeter.

If you intend to do any work with electronics, a multimeter is an essential tool to have. You can get one that does all you need from Radio Shack for <$20.

However, if all you need to do is check for continuity, there is a trick I used to use before I got a multimeter. If you have any device that uses composite video (yellow RCA) or analog audio (white/red RCA) and you have an extra cable you don't mind destroying, you can cut the cable, strip the ends, and use the fuse to bridge the gap between the two halves of wire. If you get video or audio, then the fuse works. I would use extra Playstation composite cables, but anything like that should work.

>> No.1862538
File: 226 KB, 816x612, 2014-08-14 17.42.16.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1862538

>>1862482
I've tried. There's an -incredibly tiny- spot where you can see it secures into place but I just can't get any side of it to go in place. I figure there has to be some easy way to put it on considering it doesn't seem like there was any other way for the piece to go in from when it was manufactured.

>> No.1862903

>>1862487
I found this video that has the same problem as mine (the video looks exactly like that on a normal tv, on my pvm monitor looks like the pic I uploaded in my first post).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdUpje2Vu8o

I'm gonna have to try it.

Also, what fuse I should bridge on the dead PSOne (the one that my brother burnt by using another AC adapter)? I see a lot of them and I don't know which one is the right one.

>> No.1863118

I went to the wiki and read that using dry erase marker can get rid of marker residue on carts. I believed I have read places that it is abrasive though I could be mistaken.

Also. Does anyone have a suggestion to take price sticker residue off? I currently use WD-40

>> No.1863129

>>1863118
Goo Gone

>> No.1863131

>>1862003
My first model PSX controllers ports don't work.
Any way to fix it, google hasn't really been much help.

>> No.1863221

Anyone have experience with genesis model 1 repairs? I just got one from ebay, and it works, but the external power switch is wonky as hell. It's basically a piece of plastic that cups the actual power switch, and the external switch is doing a piss-poor job of holding on to the real switch and gets dis-attached from it. I've tried re-aligning it, but after a few uses it just gets separted from the interal switch.

So I'm trying to figure out what to do about this. I could either just leave the screws out and just take off the top of the genesis to turn on the power, just remove the external switch and just use the internal switch manually, or find some way to attach them more firmly. Preferably the last option, although that requires some creativity. No idea how to go about this.

>> No.1863230
File: 2 KB, 296x198, untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1863230

>>1863221
this is what I'm trying to explain. Top is the external visible switch and the bottom is the actual internal one.

>> No.1863415

>>1863221
It sounds like the switch is worn out. All I can think to do is to take the top of the case off and take a good look at the bottom of the switch and figure out why it's not sitting correctly on the internal switch. Most likely you need to fill in a widened gap or repair a cracked piece of plastic. Could you take a picture of the bottom of the switch?

>> No.1864391

>>1863118
Take a cereal or other food product box, and write on it with permanent marker or sharpie. Let it dry, and then when you can't streak it with your finger, scribble over it with a black dry-erase marker (so you don't fuck up a color marker), then wipe off the new markings. You may notice while scribbling, that the dry erase marker is already scrubbing the permanent marker off. I'd make a better video on how this works, but eh. I have no tripod mount for my cell phone, the only HD video camera I have.

http://youtu.be/y-8wcfig6z0

This was hastily recorded with a VHS camera, under shitty lighting.

>> No.1864402

>>1863230
I have one that dose the same ting, but it's because the external switch is chipped off. You could always glue a bit of plastic to the top of the internal switch to raise it up and make it hold in place.

Unrelated, my Neo Geo Pocket Color has rust on one of the battery holder springs, and the rust goes up the wire connecting the spring right into the board. Anybody have any idea if this is repairable?

>> No.1864409

>>1864402
CLR, Hoppe's No. 9, or a dremel with a polishing wheel may remove the rust, but since the galvanization or chrome is gone, then it'll likely keep rusting. No worries, the rust may have been caused by an fucked battery in the past. Electricity + oxygen = ugh.

It won't cause the system to stop working, but its guts won't be pretty.

>> No.1864415

>>1862538
try replacing it with a tactile switch

>> No.1864416

>>1864409
That's the problem, it won't turn on anymore. I never use it because I can't find any games for it anywhere, and the secondary battery cover is missing. I finally found a place that sells replacement battery covers, so I decided to test it for shits and giggles and it won't turn on :/

>> No.1864418

>>1864416
Hmm, sounds like it's time for a continuity test, then. I'm not super familiar with handheld system guts, so I'm not sure if perhaps an SMD voltage regulator failed. Maybe someone used a Japanese AC adapter on US voltage and overvolted the system?

>> No.1864423

>>1864418
No, I know it worked about a year ago, and I've never put anything but batteries in it. It's possible that the last time it had batteries in it they leaked, but I don't recall that happening. It's possible they had just started to go bad and the leak was small enough I didn't notice before, and letting it sit for o long let the rust go out of control.

>> No.1865028
File: 26 KB, 200x168, CR2032V3.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1865028

I have few nes/snes games that needs new batteries, however I only found ones that looks like pic related(and ones w/o tabs), do these fit in as-is or at all?

And what about battery holders, one I found was 5,1mm thick, is that too much?

>> No.1865229

Old SNES, just purchased new A/V cables and controllers. Try powering it on with several different games and I get two patterns of horizontal wavy lines on top and bottom of screen.

>> No.1865234

>>1865028
Pop the games open and look. Take measurements if you have to. Any decent component supplier will give you a diagram of all the spacings, so you know if it will fit.

>> No.1865237

>>1865229
Power supply?

>> No.1865263

>>1865237
new power supply as well unless you are not reffering to the AC/adapter and the actual power supply. The system turns on red light.
Ac/adapter is generic, just bought from eBay in a $20 combo deal with cables/ controllers

>> No.1865270

>>1865263
The wavy line thing tends to be a power supply issue. Usually it's because the power supply can't give enough current does the power supply get very hot?

>> No.1865280

we talking about the actual power supply on the machine or the a/c adapter?
also for the record I got one game to show title screen but then nothing after that... two horizontal lines of dark and in between them waves

>> No.1865297

>>1865280
The adapter.

Although after reading your comment again I think I misunderstood what you meant. You can't get games to run at all? It just shows two horizontal lines and nothing else?

>> No.1865338

>>1862538
>>1862475
I had this problem. Turns out cleaning it isn't really that good of an option and getting a replacement switch would be the best bet

>> No.1865346

>>1865297
right yeah and no, doesn't get very hot but I have only had it running for less than 5 minutes total.

>> No.1865347

Quick question about the front loading NES

The 2200uf 25v cap, how hot is that suppose to get? I measured around 45C. Granted, that's a bit under half what my replacement cap I installed is rated for (105C)

>> No.1865367

>>1863118
Vegetable oil helps remove it, without the wonderful lighter fluid aroma of goo gone. You just have to wipe it off with alcohol after, or it'll be oily forever.

>> No.1865372
File: 175 KB, 800x600, 1354295840911.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1865372

My house was burglarized and the guys took all the stuff I had since I was a kid.

I'm considering rebuilding my collection by buying used stuff on amazon and ebay but I wonder at what point are consoles and cartridges fixable? I know you can replace the pin connectors but what if say the motherboard is no good anymore? I don't think you can easily replace that.

>> No.1865376

>>1865347
Well caps are rated for 90-120C so they're fairly resilient. There's not really anything near that cap that would cause it to get hot so it's probably normal. Make sure the power adapter is outputting 9-12V and not like 13+V because that can cause the voltage regulator to heat up quite a bit and since they're close together it might cause the cap to heat up as well.

>> No.1865378

>>1865372
>I know you can replace the pin connectors but what if say the motherboard is no good anymore? I don't think you can easily replace that.

Everything on the motherboard can be replaced, though. You'd have to do some pretty hefty damage to the board itself to make it not worth salvaging.

>> No.1865381

>>1865378
So in theory, as long as I don't damage the motherboard directly, the consoles can be fixed indefinitely? What about the games?

>> No.1865386

>>1865372
You can replace nearly every discrete component on the board as well as the SRAM chips and voltage regulators. You might have difficulty getting a replacement for special stuff like the back panel for connections or controller ports but technically 3D printers could print stuff like that out these days so once that becomes cheap and widely available replacements for those parts will be possible as well.

Stuff you can't really buy replacements for are the CPU and GPU so if those are broke you'll need to salvage them from another console or just buy a new console.

>> No.1865391

>>1865386
>Stuff you can't really buy replacements for are the CPU and GPU so if those are broke you'll need to salvage them from another console or just buy a new console.

Ouch. Alright then.

>> No.1865402

>>1865376
The 7805 is around the same temperature

The AC is outputting just over 10.5 volts without load so I don't think that's it

I guess I never felt how hot the cap gets after operation

Also, quick question that isn't related

Can the second player in Mario or Mario 3 pause in a level? I have two NESs that can't, including my test unit. Hell, I don't think the start button works for the second player in each game.

Am I just not observant or is there something wrong with my second player connection?

>> No.1865416

>>1865346
Sounds like it's going to be tricky to find the problem, try wiggling around the video cable when the console is on to see if anything changes with the picture. The solder under the connector might be cracking from usage.

>> No.1865427

>>1865402
Player 2 cannot pause. Try playing Life Force or Contra to see if your second port is fully functional.

>> No.1865437
File: 1.41 MB, 2184x1456, IMG_1916.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1865437

So I have a Sega Saturn with sound issues.
It will play CD audio just fine, but any other sounds (i.e. most of the sound in games) is staticy and distorted.
I've checked the motherboard and the only thing I can find that looks wrong is a bit of corrosion on the grid of solder blobs in the middle, but they don't seem to be connected to anything.
Anyone have any idea what might be wrong?
pic related

>> No.1865439

>>1865391
Keep in mind this is only for now since those components tend to be guarded and fairly proprietary.

There is work being done on a replacement PPU(GPU) for the NES
http://www.universalppu.com/?page_id=240
although it seems the guy is putting the project on halt for now.

At least he released all his work though so someone else could take over though. Maybe some day.

>> No.1865448
File: 2.03 MB, 372x270, 1407478898629.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1865448

>>1865427
Thanks

I just never noticed it I guess.

I've confirmed though that all the pins are connected to the board with a multimeter

>>1865437
Re-capping the console would be a good start on tracking down the sound issue

My friends model 2 Sega CD had a sound problem and he just bough another from me.

You could possibly track down the bad cap with a LCR meter if you're willing to buy one

>> No.1865453

>>1865448
>>1865437
Oh shit, Sorry, I saw Sega CD for some reason

Still, a recapping might solve the issue

Also, that area you highlighted looks like some sort of grounding plane

>> No.1865461

So I've got a dreamcast that won't stay fixed. I've been doing the laser fix where you have to adjust that tiny screw, and it fixes it for a day (if I'm lucky) but then goes back to not reading my discs. The discs are all legit, and scratch free. I've never even attempted burnt games with it.

Anyone got any ideas? I'm starting to give up and just buy a new one.

>> No.1865470

>>1865461
it sounds like the laser itself may be dying, have you looked into replacing the lens?

>> No.1865479

>>1865470

I haven't. Is it difficult/expensive?

>> No.1865490

>>1865479
Typically you just disconnect the ribbon, maybe a power cable, and replace the whole assembly in one go. I'll be fixing a Goldstar 3DO with DUN DUN DUN A LASER ASSEMBLY FROM A DIFFERENT DEVICE, and that's a whole lot more involved. Ugh.

>> No.1865501

>>1865490
>>1865479
>>1865470
>>1865461

I don't think it's going to be as easy as find a replacement. Sega went with GD-ROM on the Dream Cast and that's proprietary.

>> No.1865506

>>1865490

Sweet, I'll look into it.

Good luck with your 3DO!

>> No.1865523

>>1865501
Do you honestly think that there are no... ugh

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121169068228

Probably more on AliEx

>> No.1865534

>>1865523
I never trust third party parts. Especially for lasers. You get what you pay for.

I know there was a batch of legit Sega Dreamcast lasers up a few years ago but those went fast.

>> No.1865539

>>1865534
If the cost of a hit or miss laser will break you, you're in the wrooooong hobby.

>> No.1865541

>>1865381
It's really a matter of how much patience you have.

You could solder a motherboard cracked in half together if you wanted.

All components can be replaced if you can find a replacement, and if you were masochistic, you could even build a system without a motherboard by just wiring the components to where they're supposed to go.

Games are about the same.

>> No.1865552

>>1865541
The Can't-Be-Assed demon has mighty powers, casting the spell of fuh-huck-that-shit when it comes to arduous tasks. The more you know about electronic engineering, the harder it is to want to do anything with it.

>> No.1865556

>>1865539
It won't

I just don't like to put up with it. I rather have something that works and I pay more for, then some laser that is a toss up.

>> No.1865561

>>1865541
If you have enough of them to justify the price you can also have the entire PCB remade. There are alternative motherboard PCBs out there like the "NES super 8".

The only issue with that one is the price. the thing costs like $400 and I have no idea if he released schematics for it or if he sells the bare boards.

>> No.1865563

>>1865556
Well your alternative is a guaranteed DEAD DREAMCAST.

>> No.1865567

>>1865563
Not with the SD loader coming out

>> No.1865820

>>1865552
>The more you know about electronic engineering, the harder it is to want to do anything with it.
I tend toward the opposite. The more I learn about it, the more I want to do.

>> No.1865893

>>1862168
Another thing I noticed with the PSOne with the video problem is that when connected using the ccart cable it won't show any picture at all, but the sound is still there.

Do PSOne's outputs RGB at all?

>> No.1866352

>>1865893
sure they do

>> No.1867201

>>1866352
Probably explains why the PS2 lets you choose between RGB and Component in the menu...

>> No.1868173
File: 221 KB, 500x400, Super_Famicom.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1868173

Two SNES/SFC questions:
-Will North American games work on a Super Famicom, all physical lockout notwithstanding?
-Are the SNES/SFC ROM chips the same size between regions? Could someone theoretically change an American game into a Japanese case that could fit a Japanese machine?

>> No.1868179

>>1868173
1. Yes, North American games will run just fine on a Super Famicom. Part of the top of the case on the Sufami can be taken off and carts will fit.

2. Give me a second. I think the boards are interchangeable, but I'm going to double check that here.

>> No.1868194

>>1868179
Well, my copies of Secret of Mana and Seiken Densetsu II can flip cases just fine. I'm guessing most NA games can be put into Japanese cases.

>> No.1869189

>>1868173
The American SNES and SFC are identical hardware-wise the only difference is the case. Same with the games.

>> No.1869272

PS1 MM3 three chip still a good one, or is there something better?

>> No.1869556

>>1869272
My 1001 which reads legit games without any fuckery has to be lain on its side to play copied games burned at 8X with the MM3. Still fucks off with most video segments in the games, and sometimes music dicks off.

But again, pop in a legit disc? No problems.

>> No.1869753

>>1869556
Sounds pretty uncool. Mine is 101 (PSone) so I wonder what problems that my bring.

>> No.1869781

>>1869753
Eh, it works, at least. Seems to be screwing up less and less over time, which makes no sense.

>> No.1870364
File: 57 KB, 960x755, 1393960895150.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1870364

I've gone through 3 NES consoles and I'm about to give up entirely. Every time it's the same.

>Get NES console
>Attempt to play games
The dreaded NES blink syndrome
>Clean cartridge slot with cleaner clip that attaches to a cartridge
>Clean game thoroughly
Still blinking
>Open up console
>Inspect everything
>Disable lockout chip
>Try again
Blinking intensifies
>Fuck this shit
>Put NES on the stack of failures and start over

Is there some magic secret that I'm not getting? Am I not cleaning it right? Are they rejecting me for being a Sega fanboy?

I'm considering just giving up on it and getting an AV Famcom and adapter.

>> No.1870389

>>1870364
There's one step you seem to be missing; bending back the pins. Doesn't work 100% of the time, but whenever I repair a system with a blinking light I go through each pin on the 72-pin connecter and bend it up with a tiny itty bitty screwdriver from an eyeglass repair kit. Gives the system a vicelike grip on anything you put in it. After that use a cleaning kit or a game you don't give a shit about, clean the cart immaculately and put it in and out several times to make sure the pins aren't overly tight. Creating a tighter connection on the cart can really help. In fact, a lot of replacement 72 pin connectors you find on ebay (which may be the route you have to go if this doesn't work) are just refurbished ones where they've been cleaned and had the pins bent out.

>> No.1870583
File: 1.11 MB, 3264x2448, 0705142238.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1870583

Alright, this may be of relevance

So I have a PS1 DTL-H3000 (that net yaroze). Unfortunately I got fucked over since there wasn't any boot card or boot disc with it. I have been on various forums for a way to boot a disc without these 2 items (serial cable may be needed, but don't have one either).

My question is if anyone can give some idea on where I can obtain a bootcard, bootCD, and a the serial cable to PC cheaply, or the alternative is if anyone can explain a way to boot my CD-Rs without using a mod of the sorts
>yes, I'm aware it's region free
>yes, I'm aware modding it isn't needed
>yes, I need to fork over as little money as possible

On a second note
I also have a DTL-H1200 (pictured) and am aware this is a debugging console. My question here is if there's a way to access the debugging features on this somehow
>would really help me
>aiding TCRF on stuff

And finally, parallel I/O port. What's the best possible way to use it to get to my PC (again cheaply)

>> No.1870634

>>1870583
you're fucked. Not only will you need a boot disc (which you can't burn yourself), software and documentation that came with it, which is all in japanese, as well as a windows 95 pc

>> No.1870676

>>1870634
Well, given that the PSXdev community has tools that have worked in the past (and still do), I've managed to get all the stuff I'd need working, but I'm missing vital hardware.
Note
>DTL-H1200 plays burned CD-Rs no problem
>it's main function was to do this for debugging
>a cracked boot disc is around to boot without the card
>havent gotten it working
The boot disc itself isn't hard to locate, it's the other crap like the card and that Yaroze serial cable. Also, documentation is online, so thats fine and win95 isnt a problem as we've gotten it all to work on modern computer OSes (excluding most 64-bit)

>> No.1870682

>>1870676
Also, allow me to apologize in advance
>1200 is unlocked by nature
>3000 (yaroze) is locked because boot shit
>cracked boot disc for yaroze is around; not 1200
My apologies for any confusion.

I have had it boot retail ntsc-u games, but other than that cant do a damn thing but look nice and collect dust.

>> No.1871368

TurboGrafx-16 issues

I have two systems with the same issues. Through RF or composite (from ext port) I get no audio/video.

Both systems just show a greenish screen. I only have one game, Keith Courage, to test and I'm wondering if the game is bad.

I've replaced the electrolytic capacitors on both systems.

Thoroughly cleaned the main board and reflowed any spots that looked iffy.

Am I missing something that's common with TG-16? I just wanna play the damn thing and I'm not about to buy another untested unit.

Side note: one of the two systems was 'working' before shipping to me, although the RF outputted weird shit, scrolling lines, etc

I'm out of ideas, bros. If I get both working I'll sell the second one cheap in the B/S/T thread. (not fucking 150 bucks like ebay, fuck me)

>> No.1872356

>>1871368
A greenish screen is video. You'll get a white screen when no cart is inserted and I've seen bad carts/connections produce other colors. But the fact that two systems give you the exact same results with the same unproven cart should be the dead give away.

>> No.1872367

>>1871368
Check the capacitors for leaking, and the RF unit in the system for corrosion? If you get a plain black screen when starting the system with no card in it, you'll get a pale mint green screen. If the Everdrive fucks up, you get a white screen.

>> No.1872370

>>1872367
Derp, changed ideas mid sentence. You don't get a black screen with no card. I got the mint screen.

>> No.1872410
File: 24 KB, 370x370, SNES_SUPER_64_N64_GAMECUBE_RCA_AV_CABLE_9831_634565858562818195_2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1872410

Hey guys, kinda new to console modding.
I just got my SNES and N64 back and I was looking at getting an NES.

I was wondering if I could mod the NES so it uses the same video outputs as pic related, mostly because it'd be a lot easier to just unplug the video from the SNES or N64 and move it around to the 3 consoles.

I've done some soldering and shit and other mods but never to consoles.

Is there a good place to get the bits for opening up carts and SNES too? I wanted to cut the tabs out so I could get some super famicom games.

>> No.1872442

>>1872410
You could, but getting the female Nintendo AV port to pipe your signals to? Best of luck with that.

>> No.1872470

>>1872442
I could probably just salvage one from a busted SNES or N64

>> No.1872487

>>1872470
That's a sin.

>> No.1873678

>>1872356
i was told the game was working, but yeah, it's probably the game.
>>1872367
i replaced all caps and the rf box is clean, plus i've bypassed RF out anyways

guess i'll buy a cheap game to test.
thanks

>> No.1873684

>>1873678
Hope you like some Alpha Zones, because goddamn Kieth Courage is the only cheap TG16 game, it seems.

>> No.1873705

>>1873684
i've been looking up a bunch and that or golf or tv sports are pretty much the cheaper ones.

still 10 bucks after shipping.

ntsc-j games i can get for 4 bucks shipped but noooooo, they don't work in ntsc-u systems. and i'm not about to region mod a system i'm not sure works.

off to the b/s/t thread!

>> No.1874318
File: 49 KB, 1220x397, NES Screwdriver.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1874318

Does anyone know of more tools and parts I should get for just taking apart, cleaning, and fixing consoles and handhelds? So far I have this and some small screwdrivers.

>> No.1874353

>>1874318
The matching 4.5mm Gamebit
Triwing screwdriver
Cleaning supplies like rubbing alcohol, cotton swabs, paper towels etc.

>> No.1874794

>>1874318
Case opener tool (basically a plastic prybar)
Flux
Solder
Variable temperature soldering iron
Digital multimeter

>> No.1875110

>>1862168
>>1865893
>>1862903

It's me again, I managed to fix both PSOnes, I just had to replace one capacitor on the one with the video problem and bridge a blown fuse on the other one.

Now its time to wait for that PS-IO thing.

>> No.1875414

>>1875110
>wait for that PS-IO thing
So why'd you bother to fix the consoles if you're never going to use them?

>> No.1875418

>>1875110
Is there an advantage to PS-IO over an MM3 modchip, or do people here just not know how to solder?

>> No.1875563

>>1875418
Of course there is, better load times and it doesn't rely on the laser whichi s going to die eventually.

>> No.1875948

>>/vr/thread/S1753993#p1800114

So, the THS7314 arrived at monday.
I will now remove the first transistors that are connected to the RGB outputs of PPU2 and the diodes which are connected to the RGB outputs at the MultiAV port.
Then i will install the amp without anything, just to see how it works out.

>> No.1875967

>>1862003
I have a gameboy camera, and a EZ flash IV.
what do.

>> No.1875990

Is there a way to get video quality better than composite out of the genesis without needing to mod? SCART is out of the question since I'm american.

>> No.1876071

>>1875990
RGB to component transcoder to CRT SDTV with component

>> No.1876080

>>1875990
>SCART is out of the question since I'm american.
Another Amerifag here. >>1876071 is completely right. Get a Genesis SCART cable and a CSY-2100 RGB to Component converter. It's the easiest way to get a good quality signal to American TV's.

>> No.1876097
File: 802 KB, 2048x1536, DSC00937.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1876097

>>1875948
I need to tweak the input, finding the right resistance to ground and power for the voltage divider.
But my theory seems to be correct, early non-1chip SNES have a less good RGB output due of the transistor amps.
THS7314 makes it very crisp.

>> No.1876108
File: 896 KB, 2048x1536, DSC00942.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1876108

>>1876097
Here's a comparison shot of an Sufamiclone (RetroDuo Portable 2, heavily modded) via RGB, same TV with unchanged settings.
I noticed right away at the first time i saw this that it has a crisp RGB output like the 1chip SNES, the difference was very noticeable.

>> No.1876248
File: 352 KB, 1600x1100, 1353729198249.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1876248

>>1876097
>>1876108
You might be on to something

>> No.1876606

>>1875414
Because the flex connector for the disc drive on the board is broken in one of those PSOnes, so it will not read a single disc again for the rest of his life.

Or probably it could if I solder the flex to the board or something but that's too much hassle.

I'm just gonna wait for the PS-IO while I play with the other PSOne.

>> No.1876774

>>1876606
Your flex connector will grow limbs, become self aware and reattach itself long before the PS-IO is ready.

>> No.1877013
File: 1.23 MB, 3264x2448, 8c2864ce-9430-4ad9-a5ab-3f3a6a3b1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1877013

my uncle just dropped off a super Nintendo and one of the controllers wasn't working. I opened it up and it looks like this inside. The black piece doesn't seem to click into the white piece.

>> No.1877019

>>1877013
Turn it around and lift it slightly

>> No.1877034

>>1877019
Thanks

>> No.1877092

>>1875967
I should clarify, the question is probably dumber than it should be.
I got an EZ flash IV and I'm looking into buying a gameboy camera.
can I load the gameboy camera rom into the cartridge, connect with another gameboy (I have 2 GBAs) with a real gameboy camera, then exchange pics using the link cable, dump the rom back into my PC and use an emulator (so far only kiGB seems to work with the gameboy camera rom) to get the photos?

>> No.1877191

>>1877092
Sounds like a project.

Easier to just use a Super Game Boy to capture the images, but if you can do a pure digital capture using a flash cart and such, it would be interesting.

>> No.1877251
File: 259 KB, 512x512, colecovision_icon___png_xcf_by_anarkhya-d4ezx3o.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1877251

Got me a Colecovision and Atari expansion adapter. Tried RF on channel 4 and no sound from the game just static. Perfect video though. Switched to channel 3 and I get game sound but a little bit of background noise. I assume if I do the composite mod I'd get pure sound and video but I figure if I can fix the RF I might as well do that too. Any ideas why it would do this?

>> No.1877336
File: 47 KB, 320x240, Tezza-the-ingredients.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1877336

How are your experiences will retrobrite?

>> No.1877363

>>1877251
Nobody documents shit. I have a 7800 with static for audio, nice video even on RF.

The s-video mod is a fucking mess to perform, so I ain't doing it.

>> No.1878950
File: 344 KB, 720x576, TV2013110520150400.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1878950

>>1876108
I think i got the inputs right. I will do more testing, tomorrow.

I also made clear RGB screenshots of the title screens from F-Zero and Bubsy before i started this mod.

>> No.1878994

>>1865448
You need to remove the caps to test then with an LCR meter, fyi.

Might as well just replace them, the handful of capacitors is essentially free compared to a decent LCR meter.

>> No.1879002

>>1865567
We'll all be old or dead before that, same with the psio and their Saturn version

>> No.1879078

>>1878994
Yeah, for one console. I invested in one because I do a lot of repairing

>> No.1879364

>>1877336
I too would like to know this

>> No.1879381

>>1878950
If you figure out how to convert non-1chip SFCs/SNESs into having the same picture quality as a 1-chip, you would be my hero. I love the look of the SFC, but the 1chip models seem to go for more than I'd be willing to pay.

>> No.1879531
File: 38 KB, 600x750, Iwanttobelieve.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1879531

>>1879002
>psio

>> No.1879540
File: 26 KB, 407x323, yoda.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1879540

>>1879381
Most people don't know they have a 1chip or what that even means. Just look for tell tale signs of a 1chip.

My 1chip SNES is great. No yellowing or anything. Gotta love em.

>>1878950
This is interesting. Would you say picture quality is same as the 1chip, or superior to? Or is it too autistic to differentiate

>> No.1880370
File: 137 KB, 1280x720, maxresdefault.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1880370

I've looked all over but I can't find how to add LED to a N64 controller like this.

>> No.1880389

>>1880370
Pull voltage from the 5V line in the controller, and set up the proper resistor and LED pairs to keep from frying the LEDs are overloading the N64.

You don't want to add LEDs to a controller. It's obnoxious.

>> No.1880390

>>1880370
the controllers expansion port has a, iirc, 3.3v from one of the pins.

that's how people do the no-battery rumble mod

either they tapped into that 3.3v or they have a battery somewhere in the controller to power the multiple leds

>> No.1880393

>>1880389
*3.3V
Most stuff carries 5...

*and overloading

>> No.1880409
File: 136 KB, 712x640, n64_diagram1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1880409

>>1880389
Where is this 5v line?

>> No.1880414

>>1880409
I corrected my post nearly ten damn minutes before you posted. Fucking bravo.

>> No.1880421

>>1880409
there isn't, that anon was mistaken as he pointed out with his follow up post: >>1880393

>> No.1880462

>>1880414
gotcha thanks.

>> No.1880492

Does anyone know how to mod a light into a Gameboy Color that doesn't involve ripping up a GBA SP?
Every tutorial I find just says to use the light from the SP, but that's just more trouble than it's worth to me.

>> No.1880785

I know it isn't retro, but I need some help here. Google didn't give me any good answers.

I picked up a PSP from a flea market a week ago. The PSP itself is in good condition except for a small crack in the screen on the top right. Everything else is fantastic: no scratches, no blemishes, nothing. I ordered some games for it and they arrived today. Popped one of them in and they won't read. I can hear the disc spinning in the tray, and there are a few clicking sounds coming from it. The UMD's themselves are brand new and there's nothing that would be wrong with them.

I opened the UMD casing and looked inside. Everything seems normal and there's nothing out of place, including the eye. What could be the issue here?

>> No.1880812

>>1879540
I want a 1chip SFC, and at least in my brief time checking on ebay, the 1chip that I'D from serial number seem to sell for too much for my blood. Not sure if people are seeing the 1chipness, or if they bid because of the good condition.

>> No.1880841

I have a copy of kirbys adventure on NES. New 72 pin and cleaned the connector but still get messed up graphics. I noticed there is a gap in the middle of the cartridge that some on the gold connectors are missing in the middle. can anyone with a copy confirm that is normal. I've had the game work before but no matter what I can't get it to work.

>> No.1880896

Can you get component out of a SNES and N64 by using a scart cable, then scart to component?

Do they require mods to get a better picture or can they do that stock?

>> No.1880910

>>1880896
snes is easy, n64 needs to be modded and only the early early models can do it
for snes you need an NTSC scart cable that outputs RGB, then just get a RGB->Component box

http://www.retrogamingcables.com/super-nintendo-ntsc-rgb-av-scart-cable-av-lead-cord-for-sale.html

>> No.1880918
File: 334 KB, 720x576, TV2014082219091000.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1880918

>>1880841
>I noticed there is a gap in the middle of the cartridge
Yes this is normal for many NES cartridges.

>>1878950
Okay, i still have to tweak the inputs.
The current output is a little to dark, so i increased the contrast of my capture device.
However, there's some improvement but something weird when the intensity transits from 16 (10000) to 15 (01111) on the color bars of SNES test program. And i don't have a screenshot of this before the mod.

>>1879540
The first attempts seemed to look way sharper than i remembered it.

>> No.1880928

>>1880910
is the N64 mod complicated? I know with the NES to get it to output RGB you need special chip out of an arcade or some shit.

If its just a few wires, resistors, and capacitors i think i could swing it.
How can you tell if you have an early enough model of the N64?


Also whats up with some of the modders ive seen on youtube? They have wires going everywhere and hot glue covering everything. One i saw just soldered a resistor directly to a chip lead and just wrapped electrical tape around everything so the resistor wouldn't short anything. Get a damn breadboard or something at least.

>> No.1880959
File: 330 KB, 720x576, TV2014082219071200.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1880959

>>1880918
Look at the gradients between green and magenta.
I think that this is caused by the way how the RGB outputs are electrically designed, i will increase the amplitude at the inputs and maybe try a smaller resistance to ground at the RGB outputs of the PPU.

>>1880910
>only the early early models can do it
Not so correct, all can do it.
But the early ones are the easiest ones.

>>1880928
>I know with the NES to get it to output RGB you need special chip out of an arcade or some shit.
But you don't know about the NESRGB kit. You install it between the original composite PPU and the NES/FC motherboard and you get a much better RGB than the PC-10 PPUs.

>One i saw just soldered a resistor directly to a chip lead
Yeah.

>and just wrapped electrical tape around everything so the resistor wouldn't short anything.
Good, at least he did it better than my dad and showed some responsibility.
He installed a additional fan inside a good old CRT TV, back then when it was new.
No tape, no shrink tube, NOTHING but the bare resistor hanging in the air at the chassis board nearby the FLYBACK TRANSFORMER.

>Get a damn breadboard or something at least.
How about no?

>> No.1880974

>>1880959
>How about no?

>He likes his mods looking like a third-grader's art project

Damn, son.

>> No.1880979

>>1880785
I really don't know much about how the optical drive of the psp's works but why don't you install the 6.60 (or whatever version you have) Pro B10?

That way you won't need UMDs anymore (only a decently sized memory stick)

>> No.1881008
File: 214 KB, 720x576, TV2013110920372200.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1881008

>>1880959
Bubsy, before the mod.

>>1880974
When i see a resistor then i see R.
When i see a capacitor then i see C.
When i see a component in a TO-92 package then i look at the marking and google it or already know what it is.
But i don't get it what your problem is, honestly.
If it works, is stable and properly constructed, soldered and insulated then i consider it as good.

>> No.1881013

>>1880785
>>1880979
Slim PSPs(2000/3000) are fragile and it's not uncommon for the UMD drive to break because of a drop.

You should just mod it like >>1880979 said and get yourself two 32GB micro sd cards and a pro duo adapter and you wont even miss them. They're cumbersome, eat up battery life, and they're slow so you have to deal with loading times.

>> No.1881020
File: 408 KB, 720x576, TV2014082219075400.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1881020

>>1881008
Look at the copyright symbol, the lone pixels are wider and less blurred.

>> No.1881030

>>1881008
>If it works, is stable and properly constructed, soldered and insulated then i consider it as good.

The problem with using tape and glue instead of a separate board is that if any parts ever fail, you're stuck with a messy disassembly, instead of just easily taking the bad components out.

Also on the longer line, a simple breadboard circuit with a diagram will be a lot easier to figure out for future owners of the system than a smattering of parts all over the place.

Also, I'm not the guy that originally brought it up.

>> No.1881031

>>1880959
>Not so correct, all can do it.
i forgot about that crazy spider of resistors daisy chained together, i'd rather pull out every individual hair on my body than do that

>> No.1881035
File: 54 KB, 640x480, mai07081[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1881035

>>1881031
picrelated

>> No.1881042

>>1881035
That's actually kind of impressive but it is really unprofessional looking.

>> No.1881074

>>1881042
only way to get rgb on some n64 models, but i agree.

thing is cool as hell to look at, i wouldn't want to attempt it just because of the hassle, i'd rather install 100 0402 package smd parts than build that. (that's the smallest i've worked on, inhalation hazard)

>> No.1883312
File: 140 KB, 720x576, TV2014082320094700.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1883312

>>1881020
I tried my best for many hours.
But i just can't get the linearity right.
I will put the transistor back which connects directly to the PPU and connect the amp before the transistor to see what will happen.

I connected my attenuation circuit to blue only and feed it to all 3 inputs of the THS7314.


Also bump.

>> No.1884563

I don't know where I'd ask this kinda question, but this thread seems appropriate.

I recently got a super famicom - but I don't have a power supply.
What kind is safe to use? I notice that my Sega CD and NES adapters can both fit, but before plugging anything in I just wanted check in with tech support.

>> No.1884683

>>1884563
DO NOT use the NES adaptor! It outputs AC power. The Super Famicom needs DC input. You will fry it if you do that.

The Sega CD adaptor should work fine, but it is a 9V adaptor and the Sufami is supposed to take 10V. I've never had a problem powering it with the Sega CD adapter, though.

>> No.1885121

>>1862475
Try reversing it and just pushing it into the hole?

>> No.1885818

>>1862003

where can I find cheap gamecube controllers?

pls help

>> No.1885883
File: 141 KB, 720x576, TV2014082418473000.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1885883

>>1883312
Results:
Original transistor back and i connected a 22k pot between the base and ground and it's wiper to the amp = Pretty good, but linearity is still a little off.
Now a 2.2K pot between the emitter and power and it's wiper to the amp and 330ohms to ground = Blurry, but the linearity is correct.
Now with the transistor removed, any kind of resistance lower than 100Kohm to power = Sharp but bad linearity.
Now same with more than 100kohm = Very blurry but somewhat correct linearity.
Conclusion: The RGB outputs of PPU2 can't seem to sink more than 5V/100Kohm=50µA (i assume) without linearity distortion.

Now i connected a 2N3906 in a similar way as the original and used a 2.2K pot to power and a 10µF capacitor to the amp.
Looks like i'm done with this.

>> No.1885909

>>1885818
amazon or garage sales

If you go with wired you might appreciate the white wii edition ones. They have a wire that is twice as long as normal(10ft) so they can be comfortably used on the wii

>> No.1885928

>>1885818
Five Below stores often have cheap Gamecube pads for the Wii.

>> No.1885978

Just bought a broken snes from ebay. The seller said it turns on the game but the screen goes black. After getting it and testing it, they were right. But the unusual thing is it plays super mario world no problem. I'm guessing it could be the lockout chip but I wanted to ask for a second opinion. Am I correct?

>> No.1886054

>>1885978
ONLY Super Mario World works? Nothing else? Nothing at all? How many games have you tried?

Do you have any SFC games? It might just be the contacts inside the system that need to be cleaned or bent. SMW is a pretty small game, and it may not use all the contacts or something. Try F-Zero. That's another small game.

>> No.1886181

>>1886054
that was the only game that i could play. Super metroid never got past the nintendo logo, castlevania 4 got to the opening cutscene of belmont and blacked out before i could play, and dkc1 got to me on the stage select and as soon as i chose a level it blacked out. any other games i tried never showed up.

>> No.1886192

>>1886181
And no i dont have any SFC games. I got this in a package of 2 snes and I was gonna make one of them play SFC games and give the other to a friend

>> No.1886508

>>1886181
Have you tired cleaning your games?

>> No.1886793

>>1886508
Never thought about it they're kept in good shape and work on my original snes and the working snes just fine.

>> No.1886807

>>1886793
try cleaning the system contacts then. or open it up and disable the lockout. i'm not sure why smw would work fine but no others, though.

>> No.1887041

How hot should a 7805C be running in a NES?

I replaced one but it seems to be running a bit hot. I applied new thermal paste to it, so I think it hasn't had the time to bake in yet.

>> No.1887107

>>1886793
Get some Isopropyl alcohol, and a toothbrush, and clean the contacts on the cartridges and the onboard pins. Sometimes they're removable depending on the version of the snes you have.

>> No.1887113
File: 176 KB, 513x353, underseaadventuresofcaptainnemo5.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1887113

Oh hey, to whoever it was who helped me when I asked about my Sega Master System not starting up, I replaced the LM7805 and it works perfectly. So thanks, dude.

>> No.1887305

Does an RCA y-splitter work for the video channel as well as the audio channels?

>> No.1887310

>>1887305
Yes but the signal will be somewhat weaker. The picture might be darker or it might not show up on the TV at all

>> No.1887317

>>1887041
>Applied thermal paste to it

... holy shit you're either a genius or I am a retard for not thinking about that sooner.

>> No.1887329

>>1887310
What would I have to do to get a good split, a powered splitter?

>> No.1887359
File: 5 KB, 180x270, 180px-NPN_emitter_follower.svg.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1887359

>>1887329
That would probably do it.

You really just need a simple amplifier circuit which is really nothing more than a transistor and a resistor

>> No.1887492

>>1887317
Most, if not all 7805s have some sort of thermal grease on them when they're installed in the factory.

Might want to go back and apply some. I recommend arctic silver 5

>> No.1888083

I have an absolutely dead PS1 and I was thinking about painting the case, anyone ever painted a case before? Any good guides that you've used? I was going to paint it black with green power button, blue eject and red reset.

>> No.1888094
File: 67 KB, 256x256, ew.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1888094

>>1888083
>I was going to paint it black with green power button, blue eject and red reset.

>> No.1888098

>>1888094
i-i want to mum, I want it to match the trinitron.

>> No.1888205

>>1888083
Is the case damaged?

>> No.1888214
File: 2.45 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20140824_160212.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1888214

Recently acquired a Genesis 2. System works fine, just needed a good dusting and cleaning. However, when I opened it I saw all this nasty stuff by the power button. I see it looks like rust but what's the blue stuff? I managed to remove most of the stuff with some cotton swabs and alcohol, still, is there anything I need to worry about?

>> No.1888226

>>1888214
That green stuff is copper corrosion, you're going to want to remove all of it.
This may include desoldering the power button to clean under it.

>> No.1888229

>>1888226
>green
Blue. Blue green. Whatever. Colors are hard, man.

>> No.1888236

>>1888098
Well, i'm glad that you're not trying to paint the Trinitron instead.
Dad did this once, with zinc spray which been found to be slightly conductive.
The fucker shocks anyone who touches the case during the time when it's turned on or off.
It's unfortunately the best 14" Trinitron in my house, and has been dropped during the last decade.

>> No.1888389

>>1888205
I have two, one is mint, the other has a burn/scratch about two inches long on the top.

>> No.1888635

>>1871368
game was bad and/or the recapping fixed things
RESOLVED

>> No.1888954

>>1888925
Cross-post because I didn't even think to look for a repair general.

Anyways, best adhesive for replacing a gbc screen? rosecoloredgaming didn't send me the adhesives they were supposed to.

>> No.1889059

>>1888954
Using some rubber cement usually is the best way to go. It hardens nicely but isn't permanent

>> No.1889196

>>1889059
Thanks. It doesn't feel very permanent, but it will do fine for now.

(sidenote: these glass screens are pretty nice.)

>> No.1889207

>>1889196
Oh, its glass? That might not be enough to hold it.

Let it set up over night before playing it

>> No.1889225

>>1889207
>before playing it
About that...

If I have to redo it at some point that's fine. It's holding for now.

>> No.1891339

bumping

>> No.1892424
File: 153 KB, 960x717, dicks.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1892424

I still have no fucking idea what this potentiometer does. It's hooked right up to one of the legs on this Micro Genius' PAL Crystal. My PVM does not recognize the video output as PAL, so the games are in black and white. Does this little motherfucker modulate the chroma carrier?

>> No.1892440

What is a good adhesive to help hold down the rubber bits inside controllers?

I feel like I get the dpad rubber pad lined up well under the dpad button, but when reassembled it feels a bit mushy, like it moves around a little bit and doesn't stay lined up just right (especially evident sometimes when you try to click the middle of the dpad down). When I recently opened an old TV remote, I noticed the rubber button sheet had some sort of weak gooey adhesive holding it to the circuit board, but I have no idea what to call it.

>> No.1892467

Recently got an Atari 7800 recently. On starting up picture will cut out for a second and then comes back. It does not effect game play or anything, like I said it happens right after being turned on and it all happens in about a 1 second span. This is my first Atari so I do not know if this is normal or not.

>> No.1892481

>>1892467
Sounds to me like something may be wrong with a capacitor. Check them with a multimeter.

>> No.1892821

>>1892481
>12 hour job of removing each cap, testing it, and reinstalling or replacing it

>> No.1892841

>>1892821
By that point, it's easier to just replace every cap. Been thinking about doing that to every retro console I own because of how rampant capacitor plague was. Certainly need to do that with the PC Engine stuff I just got.

>> No.1892870
File: 530 KB, 2226x1373, 2014-08-27 13.03.03.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1892870

Is this bad thing?

>> No.1892887

>>1892481
>>1892821
>>1892841

i've been slowing recapping all my systems lately. it's the first thing i do when a console is being bitchy too. i love when people say to test the caps and not just replace them.

you have to remove them from the circuit to properly test them anyways, just replace them.

who else kinda likes the smell of blown caps? it's a horrible smell but it's somehow satisfying knowing i'm fixing the issue.

like sweet, warm cat piss...

>> No.1893618
File: 73 KB, 800x600, 0164.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1893618

Need help.
One day, out of nowhere, this bubble appeared on the screen. There was no pressure or sudden temperature changes or anything like that.
I waited for the new lenses to arrive, thinking that after I removed the older ones, it would be just a matter of adding a little pressure to solve it.
But it wasn't. I can feel it like a bubble, very very slightly raised, but I have no idea on how to fix it.

>> No.1893623

>>1893618
It's a GBC, by the way.
Forgot the most important thing.

>> No.1893629

>>1885818
>controller
Ebay

>> No.1893656

>>1893618
Is it a third-party replacement?

>> No.1893725
File: 2.10 MB, 3184x2123, IMG_1919.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1893725

I have a V2 Sega Saturn modchip that's not working.
I finally figured out it's being caused by a damaged capacitor on the chip, but as you can see the identifying marks on the cap are unreadable due to the damage.
Does anyone know what kind of cap this is?

>> No.1893728

>>1893656
The replacement I got was only for the front "plate", the black one with "gameboy color" written on it.
The bubble is on the original GBC LCD.
It works perfectly, the only difference is that in the "bubble" area, the screen distorts, as if you used a magnifier on it.

>> No.1893807

>>1893725
A ceramic cap. I can't tell you what it is. You'd have to remove it and test it or find the schematics

>> No.1893815

>>1893728
Have you opened it recently? Looks like a screw tightened to tight behind the screen

>> No.1893817

>>1893807
I can't find schematics anywhere, and being as it doesn't work I doubt testing it would yield accurate results.
I was hoping someone with the same chip would be able to look and tell me the designation

>> No.1893820

>>1892424
Looks like a variable cap for tuning the crystal. Not knowing more than it belonging to some gaming system that you're expecting PAL out of it's hard to do more than speculate that.

>> No.1893928

N64 isn't working.

Nothing comes up on the TV unless I wiggle the cartridge to a very specific position, and even then no sounds comes out and it crashes shortly after.

What should I do?

>> No.1893945

>>1893928
Open it up and clean the slot

>> No.1893995

>>1893945
Tried it before, it actually started after I cleaned it using a credit card and a paper towel.

>> No.1893996

>>1893995
I meant under the slot

N64 slots come off

>> No.1893998
File: 109 KB, 665x500, fusion.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1893998

a general battery question in regards to old games (however, this is happening with my Metroid Fusion).

So I bought MF off ebay and it arrived with a dead battery (ie, it wasn't holding a save). So my friend opened it up and replaced the battery with a new one. However, it still cannot hold a save if left untouched after a short amount of time.

Is this new battery damaged or is there something else that would be causing the saves not to hold?

>> No.1894013
File: 171 KB, 799x597, rC3GZ9D.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1894013

>>1893996
Just to be clear, do you mean clean this thing, or clean under it?

>> No.1894045
File: 68 KB, 813x542, c2008bc0beecd5cdbecb0a3a542ef0f4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1894045

>>1894013
You can actually pull the cartridge slot straight off the n64 board (after removing appropriate screws of course).

If the N64 still is having issues after a thorough cleaning another method to confirm whether it is the cartridge slot acting up is to picture related.

>> No.1894051

>>1894013
take it apart and clean under the slot connector

>>1894045
for what purpose would some one want to do this?

>> No.1894060

>>1893998
Is it possibly a fake game? Can you post a pic of the cart open.

>> No.1894225

>>1893998
Try re-flowing the solder on the chips.

My Oracle of Seasons had intermittent save issues that turned out to be cracked solder on the chip that handled the saves. It may be a similar problem.

>> No.1894274

>>1894060
My friend said he could've swore he saw the Nintendo seal but we will check tomorrow.

>>1894225
Fuck, we can try it.

Any other ideas?

>> No.1894290

>>1894274
>Any other ideas?

Make sure the traces are intact.

The only other thing that comes to mind is total failure of the save chip. That shouldn't be the case, though, unless you're poking around it with live wires. Maybe static, but you'd have to be a pretty silly person to not discharge when soldering something.

I trust your friend soldered that battery in.

>> No.1894350

>>1894045
>>1894051
Thanks

>> No.1894371

>>1893817
>>1893725
I'd be half willing to bet that that cap has the same rating as the one in the upper right of the picture if they're the same size. That's probably your best bet if you can't find schematics or somebody who has the board to get the ratings for you.

>> No.1894382

>>1879364
>>1877336
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VU7vXMezW_I
used this looked pretty nice but dont use it on other colors like the purple buttons on the snes

>> No.1894392
File: 3.07 MB, 2660x2659, Super-gameboy-player.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1894392

Hey /vr/ has anyone done a backlight mod on their super gameboy? I want to be able to play my gameboy games on my super gameboy but with a blue backlight. Where can I order one? I can't find instructions for this anywhere.

>> No.1894401

>>1894371
I know the caps aren't identical because the one in the upper right says 101 on it, the only character I can make out on the damaged one is the last character, which is a 0

>> No.1894404
File: 563 KB, 500x250, huh.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1894404

>>1894392

>> No.1894417

>>1894392
my head is full of what is this i don't even

>> No.1894423

>>1894417
I've seen people backlight their gameboys and gameboy pockets to be blue or pink or whatever, I want to do that to my Super Gameboy so that when I play games it's blue backlit. Is there some reason it can't be done?

>> No.1894432

>>1894423
I'll bite, please reconsider your definition of a Super Gameboy.

>> No.1894442

>>1894432
I posted a picture

>> No.1894443
File: 46 KB, 459x435, SHVC042back.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1894443

>>1894392
>>1894442
It's doable, but you'll need to underclock it slightly to compensate for heat.

>> No.1894460

>>1894443
What is even real anymore

>> No.1894470

>>1894392
Actually, this mod is really simple. You don't even need to change any hardware.

There are two methods.
First method is easiest.
>insert cartridge into Super Game Boy
>insert Super Game Boy into Super Nintendo
>power on Super Nintendo
>enter your television's menu
>adjust color to show as blue as possible
>play

Second method is a bit more involved, but good if you can't access your television's menu
>insert cartridge into Super Game Boy
>insert Super Game Boy into Super Nintendo
>power on Super Nintendo
>change the game border to something blue, or use the black option
>change pallet to four varients of blue, invert if you want
>play

Boom. You've successfully installed a blue backlight into your Super Game Boy. Enjoy.
Please note that these two methods work with every color.

>> No.1894480
File: 1.25 MB, 1440x1080, RetroArch-0828-035409.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1894480

>>1894470
As shown here, you can see that the second method works purely in software, so all your friends can see what you've done.

>> No.1894483

>>1894480
awesome thanks that's exactly what I wanted.

>> No.1894494

Is this screenshot worthy? I'm losing it, personally.

>> No.1894530

>this whole sequence of posts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fq3abPnEEGE

>> No.1894532
File: 1.85 MB, 1875x1852, Super Game Boy.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1894532

what is my life

>> No.1894575
File: 159 KB, 640x427, 1406916353982.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1894575

>>1894392
>>1894401
>>1894404
>>1894417
>>1894423
>>1894432
>>1894442
>>1894443
>>1894460
>>1894470
>>1894480
>>1894483
>>1894494
>>1894530
>>1894532

>> No.1894642

>>1893815
No I haven't. But that makes sense, I never considered that there was something behind it pushing it, although it sounds unlikely, it is not impossible. I'm still waiting for my triwing to arrive so until then there is nothing I can do.

But I thought it wouldn't be that uncommon of a problem, also. It happened overnight, that's what made me think it was some temperature issue or something like that.

>> No.1894664

Is it possible to check if a SNES works without having cartridges? I haven't turned the thing on in like 5 years and I sold my games.

>> No.1894815

>>1894290
>I trust your friend soldered that battery in.
i'd like to know this as well, if he followed some idiots advice here and just pried the old one off, destroying the traces and taping a new one in.

if that's the case, kill your friend.

>> No.1894821

>>1894664
the best you can do is verify power.

buy an old sports game on ebay or jjgames, they have dollar games typically

>> No.1895305
File: 49 KB, 392x451, FSCTDREback.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1895305

Anyone here ever have issues with ordering Famicom disks online? Are there any potential hazards in shipping? Is there a good way to store magnetic disks safely in a room with a VCR and multiple fridge magnets?

>> No.1895932

>>1893725
Update: I successfully replaced the cap, but it still isn't working right. I'm pretty sure the problem is with one of the ICCs, but I have no idea how to go about testing them, any ideas?

>> No.1895975

>>1895305
>Is there a good way to store magnetic disks safely in a room with a VCR and multiple fridge magnets?
> multiple fridge magnets

What?

>> No.1895995

>>1894443
>fail troll
please tell me you were trolling.

>>1895305
As long as you don't use the fridge magnets to stick them to the fridge they'll be fine. I keep mine in a room with plenty of things with magnets in them and never had a problem

>> No.1896281

>>1895995
>trolling

I think it was just a joke, m8.

>> No.1896393
File: 600 KB, 1280x1442, metroid.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1896393

>>1894815
>>1894290
here is the image. we re-opened it. any advice?

>> No.1896401

>>1896393
Clean those contacts with a pencil eraser.

>> No.1896405

>>1896401
It's just the lighting and the angle of the shot. The contacts are clean, albeit slightly scuffed.

>> No.1896456
File: 97 KB, 656x875, IMG_20140829_004012.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1896456

>>1896393
we were looking at it and it seems this solder has burnt the board? Can that be the prob/ is it fixable?

>> No.1896463

>>1896393
Get a tabbed battery and solder it in properly.

>> No.1896474
File: 6 KB, 300x200, 300px-MT_32.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1896474

Are synthesizers eligible for help if I'm using them as an audio source for video games? I just want to know if there's any particular cause and fix for MT-32 and similar equipment heavily missing out on partials. I suspect it has something to do with high temperature melting contacts or something, because when I bought it was good as new but some years later it began malfunctioning. I bought another one but it was in a similar shape so I wasted a good 125$. No one ever brings up the issue. I already googled it to death.

>> No.1896482

>>1896456
If you mean the brown stuff near the solder, then that's not a scorch mark, it's solder flux.
It's harmless, and can be scraped off with something sharp like tweezers or a needle.

>> No.1896489
File: 41 KB, 600x425, 1405712515006.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1896489

>>1894392
It is actually possible do an extensive mod to convert a Super Game Boy into something that works closely like an actual Game Boy? Like adding a screen and buttons and shit?

I mean isn't supposedly the same hardware?

I know it's stupid but I wonder if that's actually possible.

>> No.1896496

>>1896489
SNES probably has some vital parts in making the whole SGB work, ROM aside. I think the sound is processed internally by its 2A03, for example. You couldn't get it from the SGB itself.

>> No.1896510

>>1896489
dude imagine being able to play gameboy games while riding in the car to grandma's house

>> No.1896702

I don't know if it's the pins or not but my NES seem it doesn't read games. I played it just a few days ago and now all I get is pure blue or a blinking blue.

>> No.1897036

>>1896393
>>1896456
so your friend tore the battery off the tabs... and then what? left it batteryless?

remove the tabs, get a battery with tabs, install new battery.

if your friend just stuck a new battery inbetween the tabs from the old battery then no fucking shit it wasn't saving...

do it right.

>> No.1897071

>>1896474
What are you using too connecting your PC to the MT-32? As it could be not sending the correct parameters out.

>> No.1897251

>>1896702

The pins are the cause of games not reading almost every time.

Polish them up and see if they need to be bent back into place. Don't listen to people telling you to disable the lockout chip until you've verified with absolute certainty that the lockout chip is your problem. Using that as a first-line fix is like putting a band-aid on a stab wound.

>> No.1897259

>>1897251
The lockout chip is what causes the flashing screen by resetting the CPU. If games work most of the time, but flash-restart constantly, then the lockout buster is a good idea.

If it's just a solid-color screen, then it's a larger connection issue.

>> No.1897261

>>1897251
>>1897259
Sometimes it's a flashing blue others its a solid blue. It annoys me since it was just working a few days ago.

>> No.1897264

>>1897259
Exactly. I see people with bad contact symptoms all the time, and almost every time I see someone saying that disabling the lockout chip is the first thing to do.

>>1897261
Well, go ahead and open it up and have a good look at the connector. Those things are pretty old at this point, so it's common to have to clean and re-bend them. Just don't go overboard with the bending, you can easily break them by bending too far.

>> No.1897281

>>1897036
>>1896463
that's the new plan

>> No.1897330

>>1895975
I have magnets stuck to a whiteboard in my den.

>>1895995
All right, thanks.

>> No.1898056

I heard you could de-solder the ROM chip on a GameBoy or GameBoy Colour cartridge and replace it with a plcc socket and some chips. How difficult do you think this is, and have any of you ever done it?

>> No.1898187

>>1898056
You replace the ROM with your own chip. It's fairly easy but requires soldering some pretty small connections. I did it years ago but prefer making my own carts now. If you don't have the tools to do that it's a quick and dirty option.

>> No.1898213

So my genesis controller started fucking up and the C and Start buttons stopped functioning. Opened it up, cleaned it out with q-tips+alcohol, and no dice. And there wasn't any problem on the PCB I could see.

I then found out that if I wiggle the controller's connector JUST RIGHT I can get the buttons to work again. It's not a problem with the console's controller port since I can use my other controller just fine.

So basically, I'm wondering what the best way to clean the controller's connector would be. There's basically no way to access it and even a paper clip piece barely fits in the holes. Not exactly able to scrub it down with alcohol like a cartridge.

>> No.1898272

>>1898213
It might be the plug holes are loose on your controller. I've seen a video on carefully using pliers to slightly crush them so they make contact again.

>> No.1898279

>>1898272
You wouldn't happen to have a link, would you?

>> No.1898328

>>1898279
It might have been lukemorse1 on youtube, but I don't know what video.

>> No.1898370

>>1897264
Is there a good video on what I should do? I don't want to mess around with it without having a clear idea on what I'm doing.

>> No.1898461

>>1898328
Didn't find the video, but I just said fuck it and crushed the end with pliers, and now its working perfectly.

Thanks man, I was trying to figure this out for a while now.

>> No.1898517

Alright, so I got a Super Famicom a few years back and it never worked, couldn't ever figure out why. Recently I bought a Famicom and it also didn't work. After a bit of internetting I found out about the US vs Japan voltage problems so now I know I fried both my consoles by trying to use American AC adapters.

My question is, would it be worth it to try and fix this problem or should I just get new consoles? Thanks.

>> No.1898606

>>1898517
You should open the console(s) up and look for signs of burning. You probably blew the 7805 up at the very least and possibly a couple of the smoothing caps in the back. You might be able to fix it but I wouldn't even know where to start.

>> No.1899035

I recently acquired a PAL console that is modded to accept japanese games.
Now I have also bought the super famicom game kirby super star, which has a special chip inside.
It doesnt work. Could it be that the game is just broken, (the seller claims to have checked it before shipping), or is there a different problem?

>> No.1899431

>>1899035
>PAL console that is modded to accept japanese games.
>I have also bought the super famicom game kirby super star, which has a special chip inside.
>It doesnt work
SA-1 and S-DD1 need the appropriate CIC lock in the console, a good reason why people don't permadisable their CICs but add a switch instead.

2 things you could do:
- Modify the game, then it will work only on the other CIC region. (google Super Mario RPG mod)
- Install SuperCIC in your console.

>> No.1899437

>>1899431
>(google Super Mario RPG mod)
*(google Super Mario RPG PAL mod)

>> No.1899493

>>1898370
Cleaning it just involves scrubbing the pins with a toothbrush and 70+% isopropyl alcohol.

Bending them back is just getting something like a sewing needle under them and gently lifting them until they're close to where they should be. I don't have a video, but you can probably find one pretty easily. Just search for something like "refurbishing nes 72 pin connector."

>> No.1900396

anyone with a thermal probe and a NES, could you tell me how hot the 7805 gets?

I've been installing new ones just to be safe in some NES's but they don't seem to quite match up with the heat sync. There seems to be a hair line gap in between the heat sync and the backing it screws into. I am wondering what the average temperature after 10 minutes of operation should be for the 7805.

The 7805 I installed is running about 49C (120F) and I am wondering if this is a normal temperature. I've also installed some arctic silver 5 thermal paste but I may not have installed enough if its getting that hot

>> No.1902946

Just recently got my first Master System but the colors seem to be changing hues a lot. Is this normal? I've changed between games and it happens and have also changed from RCA to AV. Thanks in advance!

>> No.1903050

>>1900396
Well, I looked up some info, and from what I read the max operating temperature of the 7805 is something like 125C.

If it's sitting stable at around 50C, then you should be fine.

>> No.1903096

>>1903050
it's sitting around that but climbing up ever so slowly

I am thinking I need more paste

>> No.1903105

This isn't retro, but my gamecube controller's shoulder button has been semi-broken for almost a decade now. The analogue portion works but the final "click" at the end doesn't respond. For 95% of games this doesn't matter but for stuff like metroid prime where there's a difference between a soft L-button press and a full click, it matters a lot.

Not sure how common a problem this is or if anyone has similar experiences. I'm a bit worried about just cracking open the controller shell and taking a look, because I'm not sure how complicated reassembly would be or if that would even help solve this problem.

>> No.1903112

>>1902946
>Master System
>hues

brazilljoke.txt

>> No.1904317

>>1903112
Not exactly getting but the color will be normal for a little the changes to shades of pink to purple then back to normal.

>> No.1904778

>>1902946
>>1904317
Sound like the phase of the color sub carrier changes slowly, but this is a issue caused by the inferior format called NTSC.
PAL has been invented to turn the wrong hue into weak saturation which is less noticeable, but the vertical color resolution is also reduced to the half due the way how this format works.

Check the oscillator which could be a multiple of the NTSC subcarrier. I know jack shit about SMS.
It actually happens that they break, in your case it seems to be unstable.

http://www.pagetable.com/?p=672

>> No.1904834

>>1904778

So Im having to fix the oscillator? Let me go fire up how to learn rocket science. ha.

If anyone could help on this, this would be amazing.

>> No.1904837

>>1904834

Ill also be attaching a youtube video soon. Since it does work so far.

>> No.1905051

>>1904837

Alright here is the Youtube videos

AV Cable connected:

http://youtu.be/TVQiADJz5-A

RCA Cable connected:
http://youtu.be/GdqiyRRzlMQ

Things I noticed is that the RCA plays fine, so I don't think it is all of the video processing that is wrong on the SMS. I also looked up some other videos where they readded solder to the video port because they said those connections get faulty over time. Do you think that would fix it?

Any ideas?

>> No.1905941
File: 342 KB, 900x1200, 7DFf3F6.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1905941

So I recently bought a used copy of Metroid: Zero Mission from a local used games store. When I started it up everything worked fine except I the save would be erased when I turned the game boy off. I looked into it and saw that Zero Mission uses an internal battery so I looked up some tutorials, removed the old battery and put a brand new one in. I tried it without soldering using tape and pressure and it didn't fix the issue. As a final solution I tried soldering it still to no avail. I managed to not break the game, but saving still doesn't work. What should I do? The picture is the bottom of the battery after soldering it. I took pictures of the top after I finished that if you need to see them. And I already checked to make sure the poles are aligned correctly.

>> No.1905985

>>1905941
I thought latter era GBA games saved using flash memory... so all my GBA are ticking time bombs, too? Fuck.

>> No.1906014
File: 35 KB, 400x300, retarded sonic with ring.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1906014

My genesis has been working fine, until today. The game I was playing was running fine, and then suddenly froze (music still playing). You know, the type of thing that happens if you wiggle the cartridge around while its in the slot, except I was not touching the genesis whatsoever.

Reset the game, and this time it froze during the intro. I try reinserting the game, and now I get nothing when powering on. I said "fuck it" and decided to switch to another game, and strangely that one didn't work. Or the next one or any of my genesis games.

So, I decided to give it the works. Completely opened up the genny, cleaned the cartridge slot pins using the credit card method, etc. Even took out the motherboard for inspection. No fucked up capacitors and I don't think there are any dry solder joints, although I know fuck all about soldering and I can really say is that I didn't happen to see any cracks/rings around any solder joints, but they're also tiny and I barely know what to look for, so take that with a grain of salt.

So I try inserting a couple games to see what I can get. Now I'm at least able to get the TMSS screen, but when it goes away I just get continuous black screen and no game.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really don't feel like going through the trouble of buying a replacement genesis

>> No.1906020

>>1906014
Also, I'm using a model 1 genesis, doesn't say "High Definition Graphics" on the top, and has TMSS. Not sure if certain malfunctions are more common on certain genesis types or what

>> No.1906026

>>1905985
Most do. Some games, like Zero Mission, use batteries for saving and some, like Pokemon Ruby and Sapphire, use a battery for time related things.

>> No.1906039

>>1906026
Is there a list of games that use battery saves? I find it really odd that any modern-ish games would still use them. Shit, I was under the impression that the SNES was the last console to use battery saves.

I know it hardly matters, but it's a damn shame to think about how my data in my of my old games will eventually cease to exist. At least pokemon ruby will be forever.

>> No.1906094

>>1906014
In my experience with a super Nintendo, that happened when the power adapter stopped working. I would try a different adapter if you have one.

>> No.1906104

>>1906039
http://gbatemp.net/threads/gameboy-advance-gba-games-requiring-batteries.322803/
I don't know how complete that is, but this at least lists some.

>> No.1906106

>>1906094
A week or two ago I checked the adapter with a voltmeter and it was on point. I can't imagine it being the problem.

And I have no other adapters to try out, meaning I'd need to purchase another one just for the off-chance that it does the trick.

>> No.1907489
File: 223 KB, 896x1195, Dgeznv3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1907489

>>1905941
Update from my previous. I am sure it's the battery because saving works if I save and return to the main menu without restarting the game. This implies, with my limited knowledge on the subject at least, that the battery is still the issue. The picture here is the top side of the solder job I did. If you guys can see anything wrong please tell me.

>> No.1907506

>>1907489
I'm pretty sure you killed that battery.

>> No.1907514

>>1907489
You need to get a tabbed battery.


TABBED BATTERY.

Soldering directly onto a battery is not an amateur task. Too much heat will kill it. You're lucky it didn't explode on you.

>> No.1907530

>>1907514
>>1907506
Alright. I'll get on that. Thank you. Is there anywhere retail I could buy a tabbed battery or will I have to order one?

>> No.1907546

>>1907530
Not enough demand for normal stores to stock them, so you'll have to order online.

>> No.1907554
File: 492 KB, 1055x795, BH32T-C-G.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1907554

>>1907530
Never seen tabbed batteries in stores. Another option, that might be easier to find locally are these things.
They might not fit in a GBA cart though, now that I think about it.

>> No.1907561

>>1907554
They're pretty cheap on amazon. I was just wondering if I could find a place to get it quicker. Thanks. This really helps. How difficult is it to solder the tab bases to the connecting points?>>1907546

>> No.1907570

>>1907561
Much easier than getting the solder to stick to the battery itself, with no real risk of explosion.

>> No.1907641
File: 1.89 MB, 3264x2448, 20140902_130119.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1907641

worth saving?

>> No.1907645

>>1907641
Does it work?

>> No.1907660

>>1907645
i cant test it at the moment

>> No.1907750

>>1907660
Well, if it's a working controller and you have some creativity, you can make a custom controller out of it.

>> No.1907763
File: 2.11 MB, 3264x2448, 20140902_130235.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1907763

>>1907750
cool will post final results

also where can i pick up a plate for pic related?

>> No.1907783

>>1907763
Ebay would be my first guess. I don't know any other sites off the top of my head. Generally I only look up parts suppliers if I'm actively working on something, and I haven't had a brick to work on in years.

>> No.1907903

>>1907641
>worth saving?
The answer to that question is always "ALWAYS"

>> No.1907925

>>1907903
No. I've run into a few that were not worth it.

One off the top of my head was an NES that had peen pissed in frequently, and every inch of the board had extreme corrosion, and the shell was cracked, gouged, burnt, painted, and missing several parts.

If ever there was a hopeless case, that was it.

>> No.1908051

>>1907925
Well then how about "ALWAYS, unless decency forbids it"

>> No.1908492

>>1907641
>>1907660
There's very little that can really break on the controller it's just a PCB, an IC, and a wire.

Check the cord make sure there's no splitting and exposed wires, then check the connector on the end to make sure it wasn't eaten up by a dog/cat/human. After that open up the controller itself and check the PCB to make sure everything looks okay. If everything is in order you can be 99.5% sure it will work.

>> No.1908617

>>1907514
>tabbed battery
A clip is better.

>not an amateur task
We'll it's a task only an amateur would attempt by not using "too much heat". Tabs aren't soldered to batteries they're spot welded.

>> No.1908623

>>1907903
Then it's worth saving for a gore thread. Looks like ALWAYS wins.

>> No.1908789

>>1908617
A clip won't really fit into a GBA game.

I'm aware tabbed batteries are spot welded, but that's a completely different process than trying to solder the tabs onto the battery.

>> No.1908821

My copy of castlevania bloodlines made some weird buzzing noises and flickers during boot up, it also took me more tries than usual to get it to boot up. Is it the genesis or the game itself?

>> No.1908835

>>1908821
dunno try a different genesis

>> No.1908918

>>1908821
I get the same thing on my Genesis. Did you clean it with alcohol? Some of my games (Contra Hard Corps) do this too; they don want to boot so I swab them with alcohol, and then they make a weird buzzing noise or some sounds don't sound right. Then everything kinda dries out and it's fine.

>> No.1908956

>>1908789
I've put clips in dozens of GBA carts. They really do fit.

>aware
But apparently not aware that saying a battery could be soldered by a non-amateur using not "too much heat" is really bad advice.

>> No.1909025

>>1908956
It's possible to solder onto a battery without damaging it, but it's touchy and really easy to mess up.

>> No.1909058

I was thinking about getting a PSX and installing a modchip to play burned games. Is there a particular method/technique/product that is considered the best?

>> No.1909075

May as well post here about this.
A year or so ago I came across a NES at a thrift store.
I knowing ahead of time about how the 32 bit pinconnecter gets messed up after a few years. I brought it home and checked it and sure enough it was busted. So I replaced it worked fine for the first 3 times but now I get the same pink screen from before but occasionally I can get games running albeit very glitchy looking.
I tried putting it back in place multiple times thinking I just misaligned the connection slightly but still pink blinking/still screen.
Did I just mess my new pin connector or something?

>> No.1909084

>>1909075
>32 bit pinconnecter

What

>> No.1909139

>>1909084
Sorry I meant 72, im kinda falling asleep here I hope you can excuse my shitty writing.

>> No.1909253

>>1909025
It's possible to fit a pineapple in your ass. Doesn't mean it's a good idea.

>> No.1909836
File: 296 KB, 490x361, 1409073235786.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1909836

>>1909075
>>1909084
>>1909139
>32 bit pinconnecter
>32 bit
>bit

>> No.1910058

>>1909253
and some people have the experience to do so without injury.

>> No.1910534
File: 24 KB, 259x388, famicom_dk1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1910534

Anyone know if an NES Satellite or the NES Zapper will work with the AV Famicom?

>> No.1910645

>>1910534
They should work. Its the same system basically.

At least the Zapper should

>> No.1910650

>>1909075
>>1909139
I hope you still have the old pin connector. The replacements are WAY to tight and they're not plated with nickle. They wear out faster then the original.

You're better off trying to bend the pins and clean them then using a replacement connector

>> No.1910656

I can't get the ribbon cable on my PSX's new optics array to stay in place. There's just nothing there to hold it in the slot. I don't remember breaking or removing anything when I took the old cable out, but I do remember it being tough as fuck to remove. The new cable is the proper size and the pieces are compatible. What do?

>> No.1910669

>>1910534
>Anyone know if an NES Satellite or the NES Zapper will work with the AV Famicom?
No.

http://famicomworld.com/workshop/tech/nes-zapper-on-av-famicom/

the first google result on "AV famicom zapper"

>> No.1910691

>>1910650
>The replacements
Even the OEM Nintendo ones?

>> No.1910739

>>1910669
How strange, I though the light gun and zapper worked the same way

>>1910691
Well, if they're from Nintendo, those work, but most "replacements" are cheap knock offs

>> No.1910882
File: 1.80 MB, 3264x2448, Saturn.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1910882

Hi guys, I recently purchased a model 1 Sega Saturn for cheap (about 40 bucks with shipping, and a 3D control pad). It's having a little trouble recognizing discs. I tried cleaning the laser, and no dice. I noticed that when the disc is spinning, I can hear it grinding against the plastic.

>> No.1910897

>>1910739
The Famicom ones use an expansion port not found on the NES since the original Famicom had internally wired controllers instead of removable ones. NES style controller plugs were not used on the Famicom until the AV model. According to the article, the AV Famicom PCB is not designed in such a way as to properly interface with a western Zapper via the P2 controller port. They still work the same way, just something inside the system isn't connected up in the AV Fami that is in a NES - apparently you can remedy this by soldering up just 2 wires.

The Famicom gun is kinda awesome, though.

>> No.1910903

>>1910882
Raise the little tray the discs snap on to. The laser just can't see the disc because the tray is too low and it's not getting focused to it right.

That and you might need to adjust the laser power a bit too, but check the tray first.

>> No.1910908

>>1910903
This is probably a dumb question, but whatever. How would I go about raising the tray?

>> No.1910921

I've been wanting to add a head strap to my virtualboy, whats the best way to do this?

>> No.1910931 [SPOILER] 
File: 22 KB, 500x500, 1409790016548.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1910931

>>1910921

>> No.1910971

God
FUCKING
Damnit

I just spent twenty dollars and a whole bunch of other extraneous time and effort on figuring out how to replace the entire optical array on my PSX.

Only to find the fucking motor cable is dead. Or the connection for the switch is blown, I don't have any way of telling. Disc spindle doesn't spin when the button is held, everything else works fine.

Is there a way to check if the motor cable from the optical array to the board is working? I really hope only the cable is dead and the switch connection isn't fucked up.

>> No.1910985

>>1910897
I see...

One would figure that the expansion port in the front would just lead straight to the player 2 port

>> No.1911502

>>1910931
so? no real answer?

>> No.1911530

>>1911502
Why do you want to strain your neck on purpose?

>> No.1911550

>>1911530
>implying the virtualboy's current setup is better

>> No.1911648

>>1911550
Better than what you intend.

>> No.1911884

>>1862003

Does anyone have diagrams/schematics for converting a Japanese Sega Saturn power supply (specifically, a V-Saturn, although I believe it uses the same power supply as the regular model 2 Japanese Saturn) to a European (230-240v) power supply? I kinda plugged my V-Saturn in and fried it because my brain was turned off that night. That was dumb. I'll have to repair the power supply, but getting replacement as well as new components should be easier than getting hold of a separate European power supply.

Actually, I'd preferably like to make a variable voltage one, but I don't know if that's possible. I heard it is, and for other consoles such as other Segas, as well (with Nintendo consoles obviously not needing them, since the power supplies are external). I plan to move to Japan in the next few years, and I'd like to have all my PAL consoles work with just a plug adapter or different cables, instead of buying new consoles and/or power supplies.

>> No.1911895
File: 6 KB, 327x270, 1408545382089.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1911895

My Neo-Geo CD is having more and more troubles reading discs... more often than not, it now crashes between the boot menu and the actual loading with a disc read error.

I guess I should replace the lens.
How can I do it?

>> No.1911898

So did anyone ever discover a way to make a PAL N64 region-free i.e. with an internal mod?

>> No.1913567

>>1911898
I saw a guy transfer the CIC chip from a PAL N64 to an NTSC N64 and got it working. Other then that, I don't think there's any type of super CIC mod for the N64 yet

>> No.1913686

Maybe a stupid question, but how i clean a dreamcast and th controller?

Look so yellow, and i cant wipe it.

>> No.1913839

>>1913686
A picture speaks a thousand words anon

Most likely the plastic has yellowed due to age, exposure to light, or smoking and isn't easily reversible

>> No.1913848 [DELETED] 

>>1911895
Have you tried turning it off and then on again?
Have you tried asking your dad for help?
Have you tried yelling at it?

>> No.1914009

>>1913839
>isn't
that's not how you spell is. lrn2retr0brite

>> No.1914161

>>1914009
I suppose you would like to deal with the possible chemical burns that you could get with higher concentrations of hydrogen peroxide

>> No.1914162
File: 186 KB, 592x444, bXVTSVLKxTKYSXGP.medium.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1914162

>>1910656
Does it look like this?

>> No.1914178

>>1914161
I used around 10-15% I think for retr0bright and when it got on me, my skin just turned white. After rinsing with water for a while it went away. Gloves and care can help, too, as can glasses if you think you're going to splash it around.

But yeah. Retr0bright works wonders.

>> No.1914367

Does anyone know much about master systems? I have 2 sega master system 2's that for some reason the rf out only works if it is just sitting in there. If I push it in properly I get no picture. Is this an easy fix?
Thanks in advance....

>> No.1914390

>>1914161
>you
That's not how you spell "I". lrn2gitgud

>> No.1914479

my old psx back in the day had some problem with the controllers, sometimes they would just stop working and the only way to have then work again was twisting them in the socket until they worked again, sometimes there had to be another controller in the other port or something.

It was one of the later models and was also modchipped.

Has this ever happened to anyone? I'm curious to find out what the hell the issue was

>> No.1914563

>>1914479
My guess would be either the solder connecting the controller sockets to the PCB was cracked or there was corrosion on the controller socket pins. The former is easy to fix by just reflowing the solder, but the latter would require replacing the controller sockets.

>> No.1914604

>>1914367

I'm having a similar issue with the video. From what I'm looking up it's just having to resolder the connections on the motherboard. I'll be doing that to mine in about 2 weeks.

>> No.1914846

>>1914563
maybe one day I'll fix it, thanks for the tip

>> No.1915395

Don't know if this is relevant but

How do you prevent your console from dying? Is it just something is inevitable or are there precautions one can take?

Like cooling the console, preventing dust, using it less?

>> No.1915420

>>1915395
The biggest problem is capacitors going bad and leaking onto the PCB, and certain consoles are worse about it than others (cough, PC Engine/TurboGrafx-16). Looking for bad caps and replacing them or just replacing them before they go bad probably are the biggest things you can do to make your consoles last longer.

>> No.1915804

>>1911884
Just pick a power supply out of a matching model Saturn and put it in that. As long as they physically fit in, they are compatible. If they don't fit in, don't force them - output voltages are different between different dimension Saturn power supplies.

And to fix the burned power supply, you most likely only need to change the varistor and the fuse.

>> No.1915808

>>1910908
>This is probably a dumb question, but whatever. How would I go about raising the tray?

Pull it up or force it upward by hitting it from the underside gently with some kind of tool that can clip through the motor lever and apply force uniformly to the entire try and not just one side of it.

The only thing you have to worry about it is the motor lever getting bent, if it gets bent, then the laser won't be able to see shit because the disc will be wobbling around.

>> No.1916443
File: 1.76 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1916443

>>1910882
>>1915808
Alright, so I tried moving the spindle itself, but then I noticed that whenever I had the plastic cover on, the laser couldn't read the disc. Without the plastic, it works just fine. Is this piece of plastic necessary at all? Or can I use my Saturn without it?

>> No.1916995

I'm looking for advice on the Dreamcast.

My Dreamcast is endlessly resetting some games, and in others it will reset the console after a while of gameplay or when you go to the start screen of a game (as is the case with daytona USA). This happens with original games.

Anyone heard of similar cases, or knows what causes this?

>> No.1917023

I got a Super Famicom that is fine for everything except it displays Mode 7 effects all glitched. Same games work fine on other SFC machines I have so it's definitely this one console.

Any ideas?

>> No.1917103

>>1915420
I see, makes sense. Thanks!

>> No.1917131

>>1916443
That's there to keep shit from getting into the moving parts and whatnot. Try figuring out why it being in prevents the disc from being read.

>> No.1917134

>>1916995
Clean the power board connector.

>> No.1917201

>>1916995
This is pretty common and easily fixed. If you open up the Dreamcast, you'll see the PSU and how it connects to the motherboard by way of pins inserting into a bridging connector.

Unscrew and remove the PSU board and you'll have the pins exposed. Gently bend them in the direction of the bridge connectors so they make a better connection. I usually use a screwdriver placed across them all and push in one direction.

Replace the PSU and you should notice when inserting the mobo pins into the PSU connection that it is tighter.

Enjoy your non-resting Dreamcast.

>> No.1917209

>>1917023
Clean the cartridge connector.

>> No.1917272

>>1917209
That was the first thing I did.

No dice.

>> No.1917331

>>1917272
Open it up and look for any bad solder joints.

>> No.1917363

>>1916443
That's a safety cover to prevent dust and shit to enter the machine. Without it you have a giant hole on the tray.

You HAVE to raise the tray though. It is extremely obvious that it is forced in too low. Not just from the discs hitting the bottom, but because the motor lever is pushing through the little circular black sticker in the middle of the disc tray. The tray should not be that low by design.

Also, reading discs != reading discs fine. If the drive is not calibrated to optimum efficiency, it will be reading discs by doing a shit load of re-reads and error correction per sector, which puts a lot of extra wear on the laser, and can kill it that much faster.

>> No.1917718
File: 460 KB, 720x576, TV2014090619171600.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1917718

>>1881008
I finished the mod.

I also took screenshots from the SNES clone mentioned in >>1876108

>> No.1917730
File: 352 KB, 720x576, TV2014090619210100.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1917730

>>1917718
It's pretty dim, compared to every other console i have.
I'm not sure how i will correct this, changing the 75ohm resistors in my video adapter to a smaller value could work.

>> No.1917735
File: 355 KB, 720x576, TV2014090619182700.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1917735

>>1880918

>> No.1917754
File: 241 KB, 720x576, TV2014090619233300.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1917754

>>1917735
Keep in mind that the Sufamiclone uses a NTSC crystal for the CPU/PPU which results into a slightly different pixel clock, but i use a external (and free running) PAL subcarrier oscillator for proper PAL S-Video/Composite output.

>> No.1918152
File: 106 KB, 800x553, emulation card.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1918152

Would it be possible to make an emulation card? an expansion card that that houses the original hardware of whatever you're trying to emulate and slides into a PCI slot on your PC.

Let's assume I know what I'm talking about for a second. This could:
lead to the elimination of emulation issues
be profitable as all fuck

>> No.1918160
File: 390 KB, 500x498, wat.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1918160

>>1918152
>emulation card
>that houses the original hardware

>> No.1918169

>>1918160
okay what if they redesigned the motherboards? would it work then?

>> No.1918170

>>1918169
Why not just use the original hardware instead.

>> No.1918172

>>1918170
I gauge from
>>1918160
this guy's reaction that it's dumb. Besides. The mobo's are awkwardly shaped or pretty big

>> No.1918180
File: 5 KB, 631x122, samefag.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1918180

>>1918172
>That only time when no one calls me a samefag
However, anon's idea is the most dumbest shit that i heard in this year.

>> No.1918184

>>1918180
I am that anon. Explain why it is dumb.

>> No.1918215

>>1918184
What has emulation to do with original hardware?
For me emulation implies that a emulator on a computer architecture executes a program made for a totally different (often incompatible) computer architecture.
It's executable code that reads data that represents executable code but for different hardware and then it does what the "different hardware" would do.
I think you just used poorly chosen words.
An FPGA could be programmed to act like a 6502.
But still whats the point of putting a computer which can work independently inside a another computer, why not just use the original hardware the way it meant to be.
If i would like to play C64, then either i would use VICE (unfortunately my only option) or i use the real thing instead.
Why in the ass should i put the real hardware inside my PC when a generic emulator or real thing is much simpler to use?

>> No.1918216

>>1918184
Well, not him, but you'd have to design an interface, design a board, write software for it, and if you were going to mass produce it, you'd need to secure a parts supplier, manufacturing, licensing, and then convince people to buy it.

Or you could use a software emulator.

>> No.1918239

>>1918215
>I think you just used poorly chosen words.
you're right.

>Why in the ass should i put the real hardware inside my PC when a generic emulator or real thing is much simpler to use?
Once we got it down it would be a lot easier and having original hardware would mean no more emulation glitches.
Honestly most of my ideas revolve around novelty. The novelty of being able to essentially plug and play any console from 6th gen or previous by having a dedicated piece of hardware to the run the games from on your computer. It's not all that more convenient but I think it's really cool .

>>1918216
I'm not saying it would be easy. I doubt anyone would find the effort to be worth the profit but I'd like to see it done.
Besides that I'd like like to see more efficient redesigns of old things like the ps1. They could probably have it as small as a walkman by now. I'd also love to see flashdrive sized gameboys.

>> No.1918246
File: 312 KB, 2048x960, Mega Drive ISA Card Front.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1918246

>>1918152
>Would it be possible to make an emulation card?

In theory, yes. There was a 3do Blaster PCI card back in the day that allowed a fast PC to play 3do games. There was also the Amstrad Mega PC which was a normal 386 with a Megadrive ISA cart.

In practice, it would be very difficult due to the huge layers of API that modern PCs have in order to provide compatibility to the widest array of hardware. You'd also need a huge bridge chip that would be handling controller I/O, memory card storages, or even just the graphics output (old console graphic chips usually output analog rgb, and fed that into a composite encoder - you need to translate that to something the PC could read).

With CD based consoles you also have additional difficulties getting drive I/o working.

If you are capable of fixing all of those, AND you have the funds to create such parts, then at that point you are better off making SD Card loaders for the real consoles.

Especially since many of the parts that those old consoles used may not be available en masse, or they are priced at a level that such an emulation card would cost 1-200$ in materials alone, not counting the amount of work hours you put in creating one.

>> No.1918301

>>1918246
That is a lot of shit but I still want a cool looking card to stick in my expansion slot so how about this:

A dedicated processing unit working in tandem with a portable card loader.

the loader would hold software for a specific console or a bundle of them (given they're old/simple enough) and the processing unit would be an ARM or coprocessor that's dedicated to the card. Like a gpu to graphics.

>> No.1918341

>>1918301
In that case all you'd be doing is software emulation on a coprocessor. You would have no benefits compatibility wise. You might as well just buy a second machine and run emulators on that.

>> No.1918367

>>1918341
my main goal for this is getting the project down to portable size. There wouldnt' be much of a point for me to make the device if it was the same size as the original hardware. I could use a mini/micro mobo and and a good processor but what I really want is a low price on the consumer end.

in short I want a tiny, dedicated machine that can house and reliably play every console/handheld up to the 6th gen.

>> No.1918373

>>1918367
>in short I want a tiny, dedicated machine that can house and reliably play every console/handheld up to the 6th gen.
What you're looking for is a phone.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTPVWqfcXlc

>> No.1918385

>>1918373
I've actually seen and heard great things about phones. The experia plays a lot of older games like a dream without overheating. I'll have to look into designing an android device specifically for this.

>> No.1918386

>>1918239
1. Go to game collection
2. Take Bubsy
3. Go to SNES
4. Insert cartridge
5. Also get a controller and plug it in
6. Check if video cable is plugged in
7. Turn on the powerstrip
8. Wait for the TV to start
9. Select SCART 1
10. Turn on console
11. WHAT POSSIBLY COULD GO WRONG

This is pretty much what i do when i play a console game. I rather do certain things manually, and it works way better than dealing with emulators.

>no more emulation glitches.
We're on planet earth, full of humans.
You think that every engineer gets everything right?
You know what.
The first revision of the SNES (1/1/1) has a serious DMA bug, whenever all DMA channels are used at the same time then the CPU could freeze.
The very early Famicom's that were recalled didn't had periodic noise implemented.
Later N64s can be overclocked much higher than the older ones.
DSP-1 as used in Super Mario Kart has certain math bugs that were fixed in the revision DSP-1B.
MMC3 also has 2 behaviors when the scanline counter has been set to 0, either it triggers every line (MMC3A) or does nothing (MMC3B).
The emu dev has to decide what he should pick, nothings absolute with different working revisions.

>They could probably have it as small as a walkman by now. I'd also love to see flashdrive sized gameboys.
One of the many reasons why very old /vr/ hardware still works is simple. It's huge as fuck and you might be able to drop it on the floor as many times you want until get tired of this. If you would make a gameboy so small like a goddamn smartphone then it wouldn't last as long as the brick, tiny solder joints simply can't withstand much stress as a huge ones used for fullsize DIP chips. I also hate it when they make devices so small, like the DS Lite.

>>1918246
>There was a 3do Blaster PCI card back in the day that allowed a fast PC to play 3do games
The first time when i heard of such a thing, i put my both hands on my head and "WHY" was my only mental question.

>> No.1919173
File: 1.62 MB, 4120x1735, a2088_2_big.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1919173

>>1918246
>>1918152
I have an Commodore A2088XT emulator card that basically houses an entire IBM XT's hardware inside of my Amiga 2000. Not very useful for games, though.

>> No.1919359

>>1918152
>>1918246
>>1919173
Cards like this are not too uncommon throughout history, but were never very popular or profitable. There have been Apple IIe and IBM PC expansion cards for Macs for example, as well as Z80 cards for Apple II systems so they could run CP/M.

>> No.1919384

how hard is it to fix a famicom thay outputs noisy video? buying a cheap one off of ebay mite b cool but the seller says it has display issues, so i wonder if it's fixable

another one is a toploader with the same problem, the image has snow-like interference but the guy selling it is using an RF connection on an lcdso i guess it's because of that

>> No.1919569

>>1918152
>profitable as all fuck
No it wouldn't. It would cost exactly the same price as making the console less the case and power supply plus whatever shit is needed to interface with the PC. Few people would be interested in a console that has to run inside a PC that costs the same as or more than the stand alone console.

>> No.1921008

bump

>> No.1921045

>>1918386
>The first time when i heard of such a thing, i put my both hands on my head and "WHY" was my only mental question.

This was in 1993 when the 3do was more powerful than an average PC. Plus it also had a CD Drive connector, and came with a CD Drive - those were not even standardized back in the day, used either proprietary connectors or SCSI.

Of course the cards were a flop due to various reasons, one among them being that the 3do sucked. And the 3dfx revolution started a few years later.

>> No.1922462

So the SCPH-5001 PS1 apparently has the super high quality audio the SCPH-1001 model has, but without the RCA jacks, you have to mod it to get it.

I can't find anything online about it, so who does these things for money? Or how can I do it myself?

>> No.1924261

>>1905941
Hey I'm the guy who had the zero mission from this post. So I bought a tabbed battery, I soldered the tabs to the respective poles and saves still get deleted if I turn of the system. I don't know what else I can do. The save is not deleted if I return to the main menu. It's only when the GameBoy is turned off which implies to me the battery. I can take pictures of what I did to see if I screwed up again. It's really getting frustrating.

>> No.1924284

Anyone know anything about this? I got a dreamcast in the mail a few hours ago. The orange light turns on, the fan spins, and the disc spins and sounds like it's being read, but there's no a/v coming out. Did a bit of google and it seemed like the problem could be any of a million different things. Anyone here able to isolate any specific cause?

>> No.1924468

>>1924261
Huh. That's pretty odd.

Do you have a multimeter to check continuity? Maybe the trace got broken during all this.

>>1924284
Best thing to do is crack it open and look for any glaring problems.

>> No.1924536

>>1924468
I do have one but it's not very reliable. I guess I'll look into it some more

>> No.1924571

>>1924536
You can try reflowing the solder on all the chips, just in case there's a crack somewhere that's interfering with the save functionality.

>> No.1926343

bump

>> No.1926558

Over the weekend I bought a Game Gear at a garage sale for $3. It won't power on with (six?!) fresh batteries. The A/C adapter wasn't included, so I figure my next step is to order one and see what I can do. Any ideas?

>> No.1926626

>>1926558
Game Gears are notorious for bad capacitors.

These can cause the system to lose sound, video, and power, so your best bet is to replace all of them.

>> No.1926734

My Virtual Boy is showing a doubled, mirrored image like 50% of the time. Just comes and goes during gameplay. Any ideas?

>> No.1926745

>>1926734
Also hitting it doesn't fix the problem.

>> No.1926909

>>1926558
>ideas?
Figure out if it even has a chance of working before buying something that does exactly what the batteries do?

>> No.1926971

>>1926909

For three bucks, there was no thinking involved. You just kinda buy it at that price.

>> No.1926987

>>1926558
open it up and check for spiders

>> No.1927223

>>1926971
>there was no thinking
That is correct

>> No.1927918

>>1927223

Well, yeah, that was my point as well. When you see something that old and that cheap lying on a yard sale table, you at least buy it for parts. I don't regret buying the Game Gear. Besides, I've already found several videos that can help me fix it.

>> No.1927948

Looking for advice on general cleaning. What is your cleaning routine when you get a new find home? Do you take stuff apart and clean the inside?

>> No.1927967

>>1927918
Did any of those videos involve buying buying an A/C adapter that does exactly what the batteries do?

>> No.1928073

>>1927967
The adapter will at least indicate whether the caps in the power circuit need to be replaced, as well as let him not waste batteries when playing at home.

>> No.1928114

I just bought a SNES off of ebay, with zool. Planning to get a flash cart later.

Problem is, when I put the game in and switch it on I get a buzzing sound and no video signal. I can hear the game faintly in the background...

am I boned?

>> No.1928127 [DELETED] 

>>1928073
>I've never opened a GG. I hear about replacing caps all the time so I'll say something about that.

>> No.1928137

>>1928127
You have to be an idiot or something.

I said that bad capacitors are the most common problem and can cause power, audio, and video loss.

The cause of this is that Sega got a defective load of capacitors when it was manufacturing the Game Gear.

There can be othe rissues, but this is by far the most common cause. Now fuck off if you don't know how to be productive here.

>> No.1929425

>>1928073
No it won't. If it works with the adapter it means there's a loose wire from the battery compartment (or his batteries are bad). If it doesn't it provides no additional information.

>> No.1929562

>>1929425
>If it doesn't it provides no additional information.

It provides the information that it doesn't work with the power adapter.

What he should do is open it up and look for any caps leaking electrolytic fluid. That's a dead giveaway as to what's wrong.

>> No.1929853

>>1929562
There are countless bits of irrelevant information it provides. For example, if it doesn't float away it provides information that the law of gravity is still working. Opening it is the only way he's going to get useful information.

>> No.1929861

>>1929853
Finding out if it pulls power from the power jack is actual useful information in terms of the functionality of the device. Why the flying fuck are you against testing all available options?

The power jack is a separate circuit from the battery line, as it's possible to run it with batteries if you are unable to with the adapter.

He should have the A/C adapter anyway, so he can both test that circuit and run it without batteries.

>> No.1929906

>>1922462
>>1922462
halp

>> No.1929965
File: 27 KB, 500x500, RCA-Female-to-Female-Adapter-500x500.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1929965

>>1929906
Just use two female-to-female RCA adapters on a standard Playstation AV cable. Or you can try to find one of the breakout boxes that connects to the AV output, but those don't seem to be very common.

>> No.1930432

Replaced the laser reader in my PSX, come to find out the motor cable from the old one is dead, or even worse the plug on the motherboard is fucked. Should I bother ordering a new cord? I could have bought another PSX at the price I paid for the new laser reader and I'm only keeping this one because its a 1001 with the I/O ports and etc.

>> No.1930440

>>1930432
Toss it and buy a new PSX. Get a 7501 and stop fetishizing the old broken ones.

>> No.1930442

>>1929861
>separate circuit
No it's not. Have a look at the power board yourself if you don't believe it.

He can test whatever options he wants. I'm just offering advice on how to best spend his time.

If he wants the adapter for other reasons great. But there is physically no way using it will use any different caps than the battery will.

>> No.1930573

>>1930442
Care to explain how a game gear can run with batteries if there's damage to the circuit by the power jack?

>> No.1930956

>>1930573
Sure. For starters anything from D1 and JV out to the adapter isn't used when running off batteries.

>> No.1931945

>>1930956
Now, can you explain why it's a bad thing to use an adapter to test this in order to verify the full functionality of the device.

>> No.1932493

>>1931945
Sure thing. The adapter jack runs to D1 which then runs to the battery where it meets JV. There are no components that aren't shared except for D1. If D1 is bad it will power up with the battery but not the adapter. So it's basically a waste of time that would be much better spent opening the thing to see if something is visibly physically damaged.

>> No.1932520

>>1932493
and things can be non-visibly damaged.

There's no reason to not have an adapter anyway, unless you like wasting money on batteries.

>> No.1932539

>>1932520
When trouble shooting you start with the most common and easiest.

There are plenty of reasons not to have an adapter. Rechargeable batteries and USB cables are two excellent ones.

Before you carry on inventing incredible excuses to justify one bit of silly advice please consider that most people come to this thread looking for help not this.

>> No.1932545

>>1932539
and I've offered advice on troubleshooting his issues other than the use of the adapter.

Relying solely on batteries for power will guarantee a time where they run out while you're playing, and nobody wants that. A power source that doesn't involve their sole use is a great idea, and opposing that idea is silly.

>> No.1933019

>>1932545
I'm pretty sure he missed any other advice you offered while skipping all your rants about the adapter.

Relying solely on arguing against things no one said will guarantee people don't take you serious

>> No.1933103

>>1933019
Yeah, sure, he skipped over the first response while trying to not read a discussion on why someone should avoid an A/C adapter that happened well after it.

I'll continue this for as long as you do.

>> No.1933921

>>1933103
I'm sure you'd continue this forever so I won't. My objective was only to point out a piece of bad advice. Your demonstrated lack of knowledge has supported. If you must post another childish rant to make your self fell better that you got the last word in then post and shitpost no more.

>> No.1934335
File: 94 KB, 1024x818, 260933320.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1934335

I got a Model 1 Genesis (High Def Graphics edition). For some reason, the games I play look really dim on the TV and this is only happening for the Genesis. What do?

>> No.1934357

>>1934335
What singal/connection type are you using?

>> No.1934404

>>1933921
>My objective was only to point out a piece of bad advice

I wasn't aware that recommending getting a power supply was bad advice. I'll remember that in the future when people ask about things not working.