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/vr/ - Retro Games


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1817069 No.1817069[DELETED]  [Reply] [Original]

previous thread: >>1792689

These threads are for the civil discussion of CRT displays (TVs and monitors) as used for retro video games and systems allowed by the board rules in the current sticky (>>1392415). Subtopics *directly* related to this main topic are welcome.

Cheers! /crt/ go go go!

>go

>> No.1817081

>>1817069
>dat CRT
Holy shit.
How long did it took to get that bad?

>> No.1817087

>>1817081
That would have taken years upon years of being left on the same screen for that amount of burn in to happen.

>> No.1817129

Third for burnt phosphors

>> No.1817142

>bro i'm putting coins in but it's not doing anything
>... the machines' off
>what? but there's an picture and shit

>> No.1817152

>My 30XBR910 is out of focus on the right side, and especially in the upper right corner. None of the focus/convergence options in the service menu help it. What are the possible reasons for this problem?
>>I'm hoping I just knocked a magnet or something loose when I bought it

>Does anyone use an XBR800 with SD vidya? Does it display 240p properly?

>> No.1817167

>>1817152
who are you quoting?

>Does it display 240p properly?
no, upscaling will create lag too.

>> No.1817187
File: 567 KB, 1616x896, PVM VS COMMODORE.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817187

got a question homies

pic related, it's my two monitors.

PVM 1954q vs Commodore 1702

it's actually hard to tell from the photo but as we all know cameras are different from our vision.

The Commodore actually looks nicer to me, is there anything I can do in the settings on the PVM to get a better color palette?

>> No.1817192

>>1817167
Me, last thread.

Upscaling via external or internal? I think some external scalers lag a lot less than internal scalers (although they still lag a bit), but the idea of having to use an external scaler with a CRT seems a bit silly.

It's also expensive so fuck that.

>> No.1817194

>>1817187
Try adjusting chroma, phase, or white balance on the PVM.

>> No.1817201

>>1817192
>>1817167
only 15khz capable crt's can do 240p directly, no?
unless you count doublescan, but then you'll fill in your scanlines

he could just get any plain sdtv, that's what i did

>> No.1817219

>>1817201
The XBR800 is about the same price as the SD stuff in my town. It's also really fucking big (36", not a 40" tho) which is nice.

>> No.1817242
File: 2.42 MB, 2592x1936, WP_20140728_19_32_13_Pro - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817242

Bought a PVM 14M4U a few weeks ago in "Working condition" and it just arrived! I was pretty excited until I fired it up and, well.

>> No.1817246
File: 1.40 MB, 2592x1936, WP_20140728_19_34_59_Pro - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817246

>>1817242
Loaded up 240p Test Suite for some SMPTE color bars...

>> No.1817250
File: 1.26 MB, 2592x1936, WP_20140728_17_58_47_Pro - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817250

>>1817246
Lets look at some red, green and blue color bars.

>> No.1817251

>>1817242
>>1817246
Looks like the red gun is dead.

>> No.1817253

>>1817242
>>1817246
Does it stay like this no matter how long you leave it on?

>> No.1817256
File: 70 KB, 356x267, WP_20140728_18_59_20_Pro (1) - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817256

>>1817250
In 16:9 mode, there are some lines above the frame that I think (from top to bottom) should appear in RGB and they match up with the RGB color bars.

I've tried every setting in the OSD, and I guess the question now is
>can it be fixed?

>> No.1817260

>>1817250
ah.. hmm

might want to, uh, swap around dem RGB connectors

>> No.1817263

>>1817256
my tv does that, too

>> No.1817264

>>1817251

Nope, there is pink, which need at least some red.

>>1817250
>>1817246
>>1817242

Hit it firmly, multiple times, you won't break it. If it doesn't works, try to degauss it. And if even degaussing doesn't work, try what >>1817260 said.

>> No.1817269
File: 2.04 MB, 2592x1936, WP_20140728_19_31_25_Pro - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817269

>>1817253
As far as I can tell, yes. I have a slightly older photo that suggests the screen was uniformly blue compared to
>>1817242
where the left edge has a bit of red in it.

>> No.1817271

So, I just played Doom for several hours last night on a widescreen CRT with HDMI at 1280x720 at 60hz. It was beautiful. I didn't know CRTs with HDMI existed.

I didn't notice any lag at all, and I regularly play on a CRT over VGA. What kind of lag does HDMI introduce on a CRT?

>> No.1817282

>>1817260
>>1817264
Right now, the best I can do is give it S-video. Also tried composite through a BNC adapter, which yields similar results, albeit with Y and C trying to fight each other.

So, I guess now I'll give it some... eh, percussive adjustment.

>> No.1817283

>>1817269
this >>1817250
suggests you have red plugged into green, green plugged into blue, and blue plugged into red

it's also shows that red (display side) is weaker (for whatever reason), which is causing the overly 'cool' image (white with less red gives it a leaning towards cyan, a cool color)

>> No.1817284

>>1817264
Very stange, but when you look at the white you can clearly tell that the red is lacking resulting in cyan.

>> No.1817286

>>1817263
I read in the manual that it's supposed to show the RGB lines, but do yours appear in the same order?

>> No.1817293

>>1817242
>>1817246
>>1817250
Have you looked for a color inversion button or something on that thing?

>> No.1817296

>>1817283
I noticed that it looks like I got my RGB inputs in wrong, but the maddening thing is that I've only used S-video and composite.

All the photos I've attached are output from a Wii via s-video

>> No.1817304

>>1817286
...

mine's r,g,b (top to bottom)
i just tested something on my tv, and those lines are definately something the tv is doing, and not part of the input

so your inputs are correct after all (your rgb is showing as gbr, same as the lines)

this is of course, assuming that those lines are there for the same reason they are on my tv

>> No.1817306

>>1817296

Then it's internally that this stuff is messed up. Try to see what >>1817293 said, and if it still doesn't work, try to open the beast, discharge it, check for the schematics, and fix it according to them.

>> No.1817326
File: 614 KB, 2592x1936, WP_20140729_14_03_08_Pro - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817326

>>1817304
In the manual for my monitor which includes details for PVM-14M4U/E/A, PVM-14M2U/E/A, PVM-20M4U/E/A, and PVM-20M2U/E, it says

>When the monitor is in underscan mode, the dark RGB scanning lines may appear on the top edge of the screen. These are caused by an internal test signal, rather than the input signal.

>>1817306
I agree. Just downloaded the service manual. Looks like it'll be a bit of fun. And like I'll need an oscilloscope.

Thanks for all the input, everyone.
Just for kicks, a photo of Blue Only toggled on.

>> No.1817346
File: 1013 KB, 1920x1440, IMG_0166.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817346

I hit a small jackpot at the local Salvation Army yesterday /crt/ and I'm about to make a shitload of posts.

Fucking new-in-box Dell CRT monitor and a Panasonic color video monitor. $2 for the Dell and $5 for the Panasonic. Also snagged 3 Playstation games for a combined $9!

>> No.1817369
File: 1.01 MB, 1920x1440, IMG_0172.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817369

>>1817346
I unboxed the Dell and hooked the stand up, here it is side-by-side with the Panasonic.

The Dell is an E773s with a 17-inch screen, 1024x768 res, and hard-wired VGA input. The Panasonic is a CT-1382Y, with a screen that's just over 13 inches. Has S-video in and out, composite in and out through BNC connecters, and mono audio in-and-out through RCA. It looks like there's a 3.5 mil jack on the front, but I haven't tested it yet.

>> No.1817385

>>1817369

I have an E771p, it's an okayish monitor (I'm using it right now because I'm playing quake 3 with a friend). It can go up to 1280*1024 though.

>> No.1817391
File: 650 KB, 2048x1536, DSC00323.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817391

>>1817326
>These are caused by an internal test signal, rather than the input signal.
Yeah, my 16:9 hacked Trinitron also does that. But it's actually the TDA4580 doing that which contains plenty of video control functions.

The purpose of this is for measuring the cutoff voltage which is used to prevent overdriving the electron guns.

>> No.1817403

>>1817369
My dentist's office has that exact Panasonic in white for their old dental camera. Perched atop a Panasonic video printer.

Story time, hah.

>> No.1817423

>>1817369
>>1817385
On multiscan monitors, those resolutions are just manufacturer recommendations. That E773a can probably go quite a bit higher at lower refresh rates. Visibility of fine details would be affected at those high resolutions due to physical limitations in the mask, of course.

>> No.1817539
File: 1.09 MB, 3280x2460, 100_6753.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817539

Didn't notice the new thread, suppose I should move this over.

>>1816562
>i'm wondering if i can do fullscreen gb/gbc (without resorting to software scaling)
As has already been covered, trying to fill the screen completely will usually only lead to scaling issues and garbled graphics. The windowboxing method is what mednafen uses to maintain proper scaling in 240p.

Look into seeing if you can add in some heavy overscanning; You won't be scaling the image any, but the picture will be writing to a large portion of the screen.

>>1817369
>>1817385
I've got an aging E770s and usually run it at 1024x768@85hz, but I've got 1400x1050@60hz before; Isn't all that clear when running at that resolution though.

>> No.1817547

>>1817187

See if there's a setting to adjust the color temperature to something cooler. It may seem a little blue after you first change it but give it about five minutes and then look at a scene in a game with some white space or text and see if it looks better.

>> No.1817567

>>1817539
>Look into seeing if you can add in some heavy overscanning
this is a plain tv, there's nothing available for adjusting geometry in hardware, and tweaking modelines only goes so far

tbh i'm fine with the image i have (~13" picture on a 20" tube)
it's still better than anything my lcd can do

>> No.1817569

>>1817547
If he's going to mess with color temp at all it should be in the opposite direction to have his PVM match the Commodore. He wants it warmer, which may or may not be possible with the difference in phosphors between the two.

>> No.1817576
File: 1.02 MB, 2592x1944, IMG_20140727_215251_422.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817576

Recently acquired a Gauntlet: Dark Legacy arcade machine. The back of the CRT in the machine doesn't have any PCB or chassis. Can I take the chassis/PCB from a similar screen of the same size and put it on the one in the cabinet?

>> No.1817581

>>1817194
>>1817547
too much sunlight right now, i'll mess around when it goes down and post some more results soon.

>> No.1817590

>>1817567
Was just a suggestion of possible routes to take; I'm going off of modern graphics cards under Windows.

Might I ask for a bit of help/tips on how you went about assembling your cable?

>> No.1817595

http://youtu.be/0RCEp0DfTV4?t=1m40s

>> No.1817601

>>1817590
my cable's really basic

namely, hsync and vsync are soldered together onto scart's sync pin (20)
rgb select pin is driven by a usb cable with an inline resistor (needs 1-3v, not 5)

have you seen the cable? i've posted it previously

>> No.1817616

>>1817601
Yeah, in the retro pc thread on /g/ actually.

Main reason I was asking is because every schematic I look up has a small circuit for combining the two sync signals, and it just makes my head spin thanks to a general lack of knowledge when it comes to electronics and such.

Thinking about it now, could forcing the two sync signals together be the cause of your sync problem, rather than a loose connection?

>> No.1817651

>>1817601
>namely, hsync and vsync are soldered together onto scart's sync pin (20)
That might cause problems. Use only HSync and see if your video card supports composite sync output (put CSync at the end of a modeline).

>> No.1817660

>>1817651
tried that first, didn't work

soldering together has been working fine

>> No.1817667

>>1817616
no, it's definately just the physical connection

sync is perfect so long as it don't move the scart plug too much

>> No.1817689

>>1817667
I might just have to try cobbling together something with the problematic male to male scart cable I have laying around.

I'm pretty sure I have no real need for the RGB select pin considering all that is going to make it to the PVM is R,G,B,Sync and their grounds, so this should be rather simple.

>> No.1817703

>>1817689
on this tv the picture simply stays black (technically, it will show an available composite image) until rgb select is driven high

i've read this is normal, but some tvs have a means of manually choosing rgb input, this didn't come with the original remote, so i don't know if it does (using a universal remote)

>> No.1817793

I use a Sony Trinitron kv-21x5u and while using 3rd party RGB cables for my SNES and Psone, it will automatically display the picture in widescreen until I change it to 4:3. Also, when it's in widescreen you can see three Red Blue and Green lines at the top. Anyone know why this happens? Very small thing as it literally takes 2 seconds to correct but still.

>> No.1817801

>>1817793

When I first turn the console on I forgot to mention.

>> No.1817831
File: 737 KB, 960x1600, 2014-07-29 19.10.25.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817831

Found this 25-27" Daewoo in my lobby last Saturday, abandoned by someone moving out. Looked like it was in pretty good shape, so I decided to haul it upstairs and hook up my NES to see if it worked.

Thing has a nice crisp picture, though the left and right sides distort a bit. Not bad enough to warrant throwing it out though. After I'm playing for a while, I don't even notice it.

Glad to finally get a decent sized boob tube for my old consoles. Been using a 19" Samsung since 1996 or so. That thing is a tank, survived several moves, me raging at some game years ago and punching the screen pretty hard like a moron. But at some point, the speakers blew or something, shit sounds all ratty.

Excuse the conglomeration of fuck going on, I haven't really gotten down to business getting everything situated. Need to buy some shelves/storage stuff to replace the shoe boxes I've shamefully been using.

>> No.1817909

Why does my CRT have terrible ghosting problems? Do i need to lower the Sharpness?

>> No.1817916

How common are 15-25" TVs with component inputs? Because I've been searching on craigslist for months and still haven't found one.

>> No.1817927

>>1817916
Mines 27 inches and it has component. I'm sure you can find a 25 inch tv with component

>> No.1818068

>>1817909
Could be RF or EM interference from any number of sources.

Could be ringing (signal reflections) due to unterminated cables or an overly-long cable run, or a bad switch sitting between your cables exacerbating either of those.

Could be bad mojo.

Sharpness shouldn't make a difference with that unless you have something weird going on like SVM/VSM run amok, but sharpness on most CRTs should be at default or turned down anyway, practically never higher than default, because that's just noise.

>>1817916
TVs in that size from the mid-2000s had them somewhat commonly, among major manufacturers. I have a c.2003 20" flat Philips with component and S-video that I like. Any earlier than that time frame and it becomes harder/impossible to find on small, inexpensive TVs like that. Most low-end displays never had them. It never grew to be as common as S-video in the CRT age.

>> No.1818094

I have a Wells Gardner K7000 arcade monitor but the picture doesnt fill up the screen vertically or horizontally even with the size pot turned to the highest it will go. out. Would recapping solve this?

>> No.1818139

Looking for a good Trinitron around 15 inches with video / audio pass though

Anyone know of a Trinitron model that has that?

>> No.1818464
File: 2.28 MB, 4272x2848, IMG_6607.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1818464

>> No.1818490

>>1817152
You can't get an HD crt to look good with /vr/ games. They have the same problems that LCDs have.

>> No.1818495

Well, I've got the VGA cable chopped off the old monitor, and the wire colors mapped to pins; Should I solder directly to the pins(pulled from the shell of course) or chop them off and go wire to wire?

>> No.1818532

>>1817385
>>1817423
Do I need to download CRT emudrivers to get that res? I ran the documentation CD and it says the monitor can do 1280 x 1024, but I can only get it to do 1024 x 768. Kind of annoying since there's a quarter inch black border around the screen when hooked up to my pc. Using a Toshiba laptop with Radeon 4200 card and Windows 7 if that helps.

I also found out that Diamond's Displaylink USB to VGA converter isn't CRT friendly. My HP flatscreen LED works perfectly through it, but the Dell gets squiggly lines when I tried it, so now I've got it hooked through the VGA output of the laptop.

>> No.1818542
File: 415 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_0205.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1818542

>>1818532
I tested the video of the Panasonic monitor earlier by hooking up Mario World, through S-video. And for curiosity's sake, I ran an s-video cable from Panasonic's output to the living room tv, a Toshiba 32HF73. The Toshi is an early HDCRT.

>> No.1818570
File: 1.08 MB, 1920x1440, IMG_0181.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1818570

>>1818542
This is the best close-up shot I could manage. You can see the Panasonic really needs some color adjustment, although its geometry looked pretty good.

This is an inline shadow-mask, I'm not really knowledgable about dot-pitch, but I wonder how this guessing this compares with similar consumer sets of the day.

>> No.1818582
File: 764 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_0189.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1818582

>>1818570
The Toshiba was much more difficult to get a shot of. This is basically what an HD CRT looks like close-up.

>> No.1818598
File: 751 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_0212.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1818598

>>1818582
Here's a similar close-up from a Sony Trinitron KV-27TS36. Notice the difference between the Sony's aperture grille and the Panasonic's shadow mask. For reference, the Panasonic was made in 1992, and the Sony in 1993.

>> No.1818617
File: 1.27 MB, 1920x1440, IMG_0139.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1818617

>>1818598
And lastly, a Sony Wega Trinitron KV-32FS120. This is a standard def model, made in 2005.

The scanliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiines are very prominent on Trinitrons.

>> No.1818625

>>1818542
>The Toshi is an early HDCRT
Not as early as my HFX72s. :)

IIRC, you have DVI and 720p and I don't, but mine have a true unscaled 480p mode and switchable woofers.

>> No.1818627

>>1818139
PVM-14*

>> No.1818667

>>1818627
>PVM-14
I don't have the cables to hook a PVM up and I am looking for a regular Trinitron

>> No.1818697

>>1817081

About 20 years.

>> No.1818698

>>1818625
Oh snap, you have the model from right before mine! Yeah, the Toshi has DVI but it sucks and you're not missing anything, the display always comes out looking pincushioned as hell no matter the setting. Oh and the speakers don't work on mine, I have to run the audio out to a set of pc speakers with an rca-to-3.5 mil adapter. Otherwise it's a great tv, it's hooked up to an HD cable box through component (or Colorstream, Toshiba's goofy in-house term) and the picture is outstanding.

>> No.1818713

>>1818698
I love my HFX72s. They were the step-up models from the HFs because of the woofers, but the HFs had the same image quality anyway.

I'm typing this on an HTPC connected to one of them.

>> No.1818737

>>1818667
What would you hook up to a PVM if you had one? Come on, man, rca to bnc adaptors are like a buck a pop.

>> No.1818812

So I have a CRT that I like but it's also old and only has Mono audio. What's the cheapest way to get stereo externally?
Is there some sort of adapter that can take the 2 audio plugs from the console's composite on one end and a regular 3.5mm on the other so I can hook it up to regular computer speakers?

>> No.1818813

>>1818812
Yep.

>> No.1818814
File: 123 KB, 640x480, Pioneer stereo receiver model SX-6000 001.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1818814

>>1818812
Go to a thrift store and buy a stereo.
Computer speakers suck.

>> No.1818819

>>1818812
Those adapters do exist and they're exactly what you think they'd look like.

If you have an old boombox with inputs or some old PC speakers, you can use those.

>> No.1818840

>>1818819
Is there a technical name for them?
The adapters, I mean

>> No.1818848

>>1818840
Yes. RCA stereo to miniplug 3.5.

>> No.1818849
File: 13 KB, 300x300, p4196a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1818849

>>1818840
RCA-to-3.5 mil adapter. Here's the one I use, got it on eBay.

>> No.1819073

>>1818495
And surprise surprise, Linux confounds me as usual.
Either that or xrandr on puppy just doesn't want to play nice. Only running the blue line and sync could maybe have had something to do with it as well. Just ended up with rolling blue static bars without sync, and the same over top various semi solid bars depending on what pin sync was being held to and which sync line it was.

Maybe GroovyArcade will prove easier, but that'll have to wait until tomorrow.

>> No.1819106

Yo /vr/ I can get a Trinitron Multiscan 420 GS CRT monitor for 25€. Worth it? How can I hook a console to a CRT BTW? Are there some god tier CRT models of Sony I should lookout for?

>> No.1819107

>>1819106
*With only a VGA cable.

>> No.1819126

>>1819106
https://docs.sony.com/release/specs/CPD420GS_mksp.pdf

Here's a link to the spec sheet anon. Sounds totally worth it, decent sized screen and it does up to 1600 x 1200.

The goddest tier Sony CRT monitor I know of is the GDM-FW900, but good luck finding one of those.

>> No.1819138

>>1819126
Thanks a ton m8. Any idea how to hook up u master system to it? Any VGA adapters that come to mind?

>> No.1819154

>>1819106
Oh and hooking up consoles to a PC monitor is more trouble than it's worth. The only console with VGA output is the Dreamcast, for everything else you'd have to use SCART to VGA converters.

Stick to emulation.

>> No.1819159

>>1819154
OK thx m8

>> No.1819280

Disregarding any image quality loss, will using a DVI/S-Video adapter introduce any input delay? That is all I really care about. I want to play some Street Fighter IV as well as some emulated PC-Engine games and so forth.

>> No.1819291

>>1819280

If it is DVI-D? Yes, definitely. If it's analog, maybe a little.

>> No.1819353

I've been noticing my CRT obsessions.
Every time I think of my Trinitrons I think of how the geometry isn't perfect so then I feel the need to adjust it for hours.
Then I started noticing other little obsessions I've had over the years and I legit believe I'm OCD.
I couldn't go to sleep last night until I triple checked that all my monitors were off.
Help ;-;

>> No.1819365

>>1819353
try unplugging them then you don't have to check more than once

>> No.1819372

>>1819365
I set it up so all my monitors and my mixer are on the same powerstrip and I just turn off the strip.
Thing is I keep checking back to make sure there are no little LEDs still on.

>> No.1819463

>>1819372
That's pretty obsessive bro. Try drugs?

>> No.1819561

>>1817271

With an hdmi-hdmi connection, not a lot. main problem with HDTV sets is that they don't handle analog signals from retro consoles latency free. but any device which can output a digital signal will work amazingly well with these sets.

>> No.1819572

>>1817271
I like keeping everything original. Did vanilla Doom support widescreen?

>> No.1819578

What's the best way to take good pictures of CRTs?
Shutter speed, etc.

>> No.1819583

>tfw shitty LCD not only killed CRT but also killed rear projection and SED.
Why can't we have anything nice?

>> No.1819587

>>1819583
That's the future you chose.

>> No.1819593

>>1819587
B-but my transition to HD was to RPTV but when that started to fade I had no choice but to go LCD for my HD purposes.

>> No.1819606

Speaking of LCD. What can I use to setup my LCD to look as good as it can?

>> No.1819685

Went to the tip today to get rid of an old shed, there was a pile of about 15 CRTs sitting there, someone even threw away a PS1, RIP.

>> No.1819690

Worth getting?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261541970351?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

>> No.1819701

>>1819685

Which brands? If it was generic chinese stuff, then nothing of value was lost.

>> No.1819708

>>1819701
One Sony, one Toshiba, one Mitsubishi, and a Dell monitor, was all I clocked.

>> No.1819710

>>1818737
Way less than that. He'd need like $2 worth to do what he wants and pretty much ALL PVMs have composite passthrough. Thrift store TVs have it too if you look at a ton but if Anon wants a thrift store tier model then what's the point of asking for a specific one? It's just a matter of looking at a ton of them or asking the Craigslist guys.

>> No.1819712

>>1819708
Oh and I thought I hit the jackpot when I see a small amp with fender grill cloth, it was a frontman 15, so close to a free blackface champ.

>> No.1820129
File: 3.37 MB, 3648x2736, IMG_6038.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1820129

>10 hours of trying to get GC "backups" to work on my wii later

They aren't that apparent in the picture but I've got some slick 480p scanlines now.

>> No.1820132
File: 761 KB, 1110x1439, a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1820132

>>1819578
shutter should be kept at least a little slower than the time needed for a single frame to be drawn, half that speed again for interlaced modes

if you're having trouble getting exposure right that bright things aren't bleeding and dark things are still visible, try taking a darker one and adjusting the levels in software after, noisy dark areas don't matter too much

>> No.1820149
File: 2.64 MB, 3648x2736, IMG_6044.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1820149

Again

>> No.1820179

>>1819606
Not /CRT/ FYI, but I would get an upscaler, or more to the point, use emulators set to the native resolution of the LCD.

Looking good is only half of the equation though, I'm using CRTs because they're much more responsive than the fastest LCD.

>> No.1820210

>>1820179
Not talking about /vr/.
I spend so much time messing with my CRTs to get them to look good I realize I pay no attention to my LCD. I want to make sure my movies and non-/vr/ games are looking as good as possible.

>> No.1820289
File: 1.06 MB, 2304x1728, 100_1417.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1820289

I'm currently trying to calibrate my PVM 1444QM with it's front panel and the 240p test suite, and I'm wondering: What is the "Apperture" setting? Does it have anything to do with the convergence?

>> No.1820290
File: 989 KB, 3280x2460, 100_5271.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1820290

>>1820149
Nice

Components for RGB modding the SNESmini and N64 got here today; PCBs should arrive tomorrow, then I can put them together and take some comparison shots.

>> No.1820476

>>1820289
Sort of like a sharpness adjustment, or so the manuals say. I'd call it focus, myself, since you don't get any of the harshness of what sharpness adjustment can give you on a consumer television.

Doesn't have anything to do with convergence adjustment.

>> No.1821037
File: 18 KB, 476x357, Kirbyrage.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1821037

>>1820129
>480p scanlines

>> No.1821105

>>1821037
I'd imagine they are scanlines, since the TV displays 1080i/720p, 480p should be similar to running 240p on a 480i screen.

I could be wrong though, but there are scanlines visible to me when I'm playing it.

>> No.1821354

>>1818570

Smaller dot pitch = more defined scanlines

That's why the last pic has such discernible scanlines.

>> No.1821396

>>1821037
480p scanlines are very subtle, but they are there nonetheless. The only kind of 480p-capable CRT I can think of that WOULDN'T have any scanlines would be an ancient VGA PC monitor.

>> No.1821440

>>1821396
>480p scanlines are very subtle, but they are there nonetheless.

"scanlines" are caused by the fact that every other line is skipped in 240p displays, in 480p (or even 480i) you would be filling both fields of the picture, so by definition you have no scanlines.

If you can see any empty "lines" inbetween the pixel rows, they are from the shadow mask / aperture grille. Especially if you are using a higher resolution screen, like a PC monitor, instead of a traditional TV screen.

>> No.1821494

>>1817069
hey crt-fags. How can i get my 16:9 screen to display 4:3. Do any upscalers do this or other pieces of hardware? I'm getting tired of this fucking disgusting stretched look for so many games.

>> No.1821510

>>1821494
What model TV is it? Most 16:9 trinitrons have an option for 4:3.

>> No.1821517

>>1821440

A scanline is a scanline, whether there are 480 of them or 240 of them. How much of gap is visible between them is dependent on display resolution and dot pitch. A lot of CRT monitors that were capable of displaying high resolutions would have visible scanlines at 480p and very prominent scanlines at 240p.

>> No.1821549
File: 762 KB, 2624x984, Fuck Dell.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1821549

I think this is about as far as I'll be able to take this until I manage to either fix the old Dell, or get my hands on a replacement. I can't get the Thinkpad to put out anything acceptable what so ever, and this menu is the only thing I can get to sync properly from my 6950;

I believe Puppy keeps trying to use the PVM as it's primary monitor, and as such I can't do anything with it
Groovy will sync correctly in this menu, and then spazzes out immediately after starting the frontend
AGLAD just doesn't want to cooperate at all
Powerstrip doesn't want to see it
Winmodelines will add the correct resolutions but catalyst nor anything else will let me set them, going so far as not even syncing vertically.

Being able to use that 9600 would make this so much easier.

>>1821494
If it doesn't change automatically, there should be an option in the TV's menu to do so manually.

>> No.1821854

>>1820210
If you care about 'natural' color reproduction go for color temperature close to 6500K, but even then true accuracy depends algorithmically on color temperature AND color coordinates, not just color temperature alone. Also, you would probably want to mess with black level adjustment and peak brightness, as well as gamma for true contrast adjustment (but optimizing gamma will only work for specific images, and will unoptimize for other images, hence why most manufacturers don't let you manage gamma manually anymore). Other than that, make sure your signal outputs to the native resolution of the LCD, and that there's no 'scan and panning' being done like some LCD Televisions try to do.

>> No.1821860

>>1821440
And this is complicated further on displays that support even higher resolutions. Honestly, I'm not a big scanline person as I believe everyone experienced a TV-brand-and-model-specific definition of a standard scanline growing up. To each his own.

>> No.1821915

>>1821549
wow.. i don't wanna admit how long i've been playing games all stretched like that. fuark

>> No.1822005

>>1821915
Haha, never heard of letterboxing?

>> No.1822009

>>1822005
what's that. googles not coming up with anything

>> No.1822025

>>1822009
...
Please tell me you've at least been to YouTube and seen the effects of letterboxing first hand. Letterboxing is when black bars are placed in a video source either on the top or the sides depending on whether your video is converted from 4:3 to widescreen formats or vice versa.

Another way to deal with aspect ratio issues is to crop the source video so that you fill out the screen, but some of the on-screen content is cropped out.

In any case, I personally prefer stretching on 3D content, simply because I want to utilize as much screen space as possible to be able to view it as far back as possible.

>> No.1822030

>>1822025
yeah i found what is was with a second search. i'm tired as fuck atm.

I was just playing around with it and I think 4:3 may be worth sitting a bit closer. The stretched look is so ugly.

>> No.1822208

>>1819710
>>1818737
I am looking for one that can be my regular TV as well as play some retro games on

I was just wondering what regular Trinitron model would fit my requirements.

>> No.1822259

Best CRT for N64-era games?

>> No.1822270

>>1822259

The same than for any other console outputting a 240p video signal.

>> No.1822272
File: 585 KB, 1824x1368, a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1822272

>>1822259
probably just any plain color sdtv

personally i think aperture grille makes more sense for 2D games than 3D ones

if you prefer to render them at higher resolution, then a computer monitor is probably what you want

>> No.1822273

>>1822270
A-and which is that?

>> No.1822289

>>1822273

Get a good brand, the ones that aren't korean or chinese knockoff, and don't trust 90s 'merrican models because they're from chinese factories too. Get a japanese TV like a sony or toshiba, stuff like this, and be sure it isn't made in china.

Or just, you know, read the thread to see what kind of monitors/TVs are good, what kind aren't that good, instead of waiting to be spoon-fed.

>> No.1822291

>>1822273
de mighty trini

>> No.1822315
File: 25 KB, 271x300, 51S8M2Y0YKL._SY300_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1822315

>>1822289
Speaking of Toshiba, there's some Toshiba 32A32 TV's that a nearby business is planning to get rid of. Amazon has an old listing that mentions that it has a digital comb filter, but user manual doesn't mention anything, and the only thing the service manual mentions that is digital is some part number:

QZ01 23009176 IC, 3LINE-DIGITAL Y/C SEP, TC90A53N

Is there any wording in the manuals I should look for to tell if this model has any digital processing of the picture?

>> No.1822518

>>1822289
>don't trust 90s 'merrican models because they're from chinese factories too
Definitely not all. Better advice would be to check the label on 'murican brand TVs to see where they were made. You could still buy an American-built TV using an American-made tube up until the mid-2000s, along with the Chinese and Mexican stuff. Speaking of Mexico...

>Get a japanese TV like a sony or toshiba, stuff like this, and be sure it isn't made in china.
For the North American market, Sony went to Mexico hardcore after NAFTA and made tubes and TVs there until the end of the CRT age. Chances are good that any North American Sony consumer TV worth owning today for retro vidya over a certain size was actually built in Mexico.

Toshiba built their own tube TVs in the USA using American tubes until the mid-'00s, after which they started outsourcing all their CRT TV manufacturing to a company that had factories in the US, China, and Thailand.

Sony and Toshiba TVs are my one-two, btw. I like them a lot. As for avoiding Chinese TVs, I have a Chinese-built Philips that I like a lot too, actually. Caveat emptor, these are just my experiences and observations. I know I've mentioned these things before; just thought I'd bring them up again when I read your post.

>>1822315
>3LINE-DIGITAL Y/C SEP
That refers to a 3-line digital comb filter. That's fine, and will only apply to a composite signal anyway. The comb filters you generally might want to avoid are the temporal "3D" ones, since those work using multiple fields.

I wouldn't mind checking out that TV, BTW. I own some c.2002 Toshiba flat CRT HDTVs that I still really like. This one's a round SDTV with component, S-video, color temp control, and seemingly no friggin' SVM at a nice big size. Score, as long as the tube and electronics are still good. Don't know what 240p would look like on it until you test it out, though.

>> No.1822537

>>1822518
Thanks for the info!

>Score, as long as the tube and electronics are still good.
By my calculations on the store hours and how long the TV's have been there, the Toshiba's at that business have close to 30,000 hours on them. I'll need to wait until they take them down from the wall mounts before I can get a good look at them.

>> No.1822551

Just came across this offer, maybe someone here can benefit.

http://www.arcadespareparts.com/arcade_parts/monitors_chassis/arcade_monitor_29inch/13319.html

>> No.1822573
File: 1.52 MB, 2592x1944, Hang_On_SEGA_MS_SonyPVM14440QM.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1822573

Finally got my 1440 QM to work. Does anyone have tips to calibrate it? Also purchased BNC to female scart. But it has a red, blue and green cable + red/white audio and it also has a yellow cable. Why?

>> No.1822574

>>1822537
You're welcome, and good luck with the Toshiba.

>> No.1822576
File: 3.30 MB, 2592x1944, Hang_On_SEGA_MS_SonyPVM14440QM_Scanlines.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1822576

>> No.1822585

>>1822573

The yellow cable is the synch. Plug it in on the sync male BNC.

To calibrate it, you can use the 240p test suite for example, you can already calibrate the brightness and contrasts on the front panel. For the rest, I think you might need to open it.

>> No.1822592

>>1822537
>>1822574
BTW, bro...I'd love to hear more about that model once you're able to take a good look at it!

>> No.1822596

>>1822585
Thans anon. How does this test suite work?

>> No.1822597

>>1822592
If I pick one of them up I'll be sure to post again here. Hopefully between 10 different TV's to choose from, one of them will be in good shape.

>> No.1822601

>>1822573
>it also has a yellow cable. Why?
sync line for rgb for your fancy now-working pvm!

>> No.1822602

>>1822596

You have a menu, you chose the test pattern, and you follow the instruction available on the wiki. You can use it on Wii, dreamcast, MegaCD.

>> No.1822627

>>1822602
Ok will try out!

>> No.1822646

>>1822551
Resolution: 31K

That doesn't mean...what I think it means...does it?

>> No.1822656

>>1822646
dunno, i just saw the things for sale and posted. Framework CRT with cabinet mountings seemed like it might be something /vr/ could use.

>> No.1822658

>>1822646

>Resolution: 31K

lel, I love when these kind of websites post informations they have no idea about. 31k is the horizontal sync. That means that this monitor will not be the best at displaying 240p signals.

>> No.1822678

>>1822658
Does horizontal scan rate really correlate closely with 240p quality? I mean, can't a 96+kHz HDCRT do 480p just fine?

>> No.1822698

>>1822678

It depends on the vertical refresh rate. The thing is that most of the time, for a 31kHz monitor to display a 240p signal correctly, it either needs to double the number of lines (thus displaying a 240p picture disguised as a 480p one), or have a vertical refresh rate of 120Hz (that's what happen on PC for example). All consoles that output a 240p signal are synched to 50/60Hz. You can see the problem.

>> No.1822703

>>1822678
not him, but from what i know, a 31khz monitor can't do 240p directly, it scans too quickly to go that low

you would need to do 'doublescan', which means drawn each scanline twice, effectively making a 480p image (and filling in the gaps you'd get on a 15khz monitor when doing 240p, which is what 'scanlines' refer to in most contexts itt)

>> No.1822717

>>1822573
What was wrong with your PVM and how did you fix it?

>> No.1822725

>>1822698
So with a true 240p resolution at 120Hz, couldn't you just implement a mechanism for the console to output the signals for a frame twice so you get 2 frames displaying the same thing? Or just have the emulator do it for an easier method.

>> No.1822728

>>1822725

You'll love the motion quality advantage, it'll just be as smooth as on an LCD. You seriously don't want to have this.

>> No.1822867

For the North American market, Sony went to Mexico hardcore after NAFTA and made tubes and TVs there until the end of the CRT age. >Chances are good that any North American Sony consumer TV worth owning today for retro vidya over a certain size was actually built in Mexico.

For what it's worth, I think my XBR910's tube was made in malaysia. At least that's what I thought it said on the tube when I had it open the other day. Could have been mehiko.

>> No.1822883

>>1822867
non-american here, could you briefly explain what nafta is?

>> No.1822903

>>1822883

North American Free Trade Agreement.

anyway, here in Europe, most of our Trinitrons were made in Spain.

>> No.1823038

>>1822717
The power plug was broken. Opened it and rewired the three wires from the internal PSU. Bought new sleeving and sacrificed a plastic plug from an old domino. Then it ran fine and now its also grounded.

>> No.1823270

If I buy an arcade board do I need an arcade monitor or can I use my PVM?

>> No.1823282

>>1823270

Depending on the board. If it's one that normally use a 15kHz monitor, yes. Otherwise, nope.

>> No.1823494
File: 2 KB, 512x256, Grid.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1823494

Something that doesn't seem to be explained.
When using the grid what should be displayed.
Do you leave the red in when underscan mode is on? Do you only show white normally?

>> No.1823510

>>1823494
from what i know, when underscanning you want to see everything, when overscanning, you want the edges of the screen to be part way through red, but with white still all visible

>> No.1823531

>>1822867
I believe you, but to me, it would have been strange at the time that the XBR910 was Sony's flagship TV in the U.S. for them to use a non-Mexican tube.

For North America, Sony only sourced small electronics like remote controls and earphones from Malaysia from what I remember.

>> No.1823629
File: 145 KB, 630x840, 1395954888493.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1823629

Im starting to look for a CRT to play my SNES and Gamecube on. How do I know if its quality or not? Is there a guide? What general brands are best?

>> No.1823738
File: 48 KB, 640x360, 2014-07-31-140728.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1823738

how long do you guys figure my tv has? is there any fix for this kind of issue sometimes it stays like this all day and sometimes it fixes when i stomp my foot on the ground

>> No.1823754

doesn't look like a sign of failure to me (at least tube-wise), just a buggered geometry correction

>> No.1823768

>>1823629
What are the ice cubes for?

>> No.1823771

>>1823768
I think that's the character from Frozen, the one that controls ice.
Do the math.

>> No.1823786

>>1823738
East/West distortion.

>sometimes it fixes when i stomp my foot on the ground
A broken solder joint seems to cause that.

>> No.1823803

>>1822867
I know there was a Sony manufacturing plant ~40 miles from me that was still doing tube production in some capacity until the early to mid 00's. Despite this, I know that my FS13 and FS100 are both listed as being Mexican; HS420 isn't in a position to check at the moment, but I'd be willing to bet it'd be the same.

>> No.1823813

>Sony TVs mostly manufactured in Mexico
>Still expensive as fuck
Being mexican and wanting nice electronics is suffering.

>> No.1823995

Hello. question! So my dad just picked up two 19 inch panasonic monitors for free.99. He describes them as huge cubes. I haven't seen them yet. The only thing I know is that they have BNC connections according to him. Am I right to assume that if I get SCART to BNC that this thing will output RGB? Also anyone have any old Panasonic production monitors? I'll be back once I have more info.

>> No.1824042

>>1823995

>Am I right to assume that if I get SCART to BNC that this thing will output RGB

What thing?

>> No.1824082

>>1823995
BNC doesn't immediately mean RGB. Assuming it takes RGB(Over BNC of course) a simple breakout cable should suffice.

>> No.1824203

Where do you buy CRTs?

>> No.1824229

>>1823995
BNC is just a connector, they mightn't be RGB so wait until you see them.

>>1824203
Shops, trashcans, the fucking internet?

>> No.1824238

>>1824229
What brands/series should I look out for?

>> No.1824249

>>1824238
sony trinitron

>> No.1824278

>>1824249
Care to elaborate?

>> No.1824301

>>1824278
no

>> No.1824320

>>1824238
just get any old piece
there are tons of them around
people dont want them anymore

>> No.1824378
File: 1007 KB, 1920x1440, IMG_0176.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1824378

>>1823995
I picked up a Panasonic monitor on Monday, I posted some pics further up the thread. Here's a shot of the BNC connectors on the back, mine doesn't do RGB, just composite and s-video.

>> No.1824727
File: 1.14 MB, 2322x4128, 20140731_223053.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1824727

So here's the inputs of the 19 inch Panasonic I got for free today. I actually received two of these. What's the best quality video I can get? I already figured out i can't get RGB. I'm guessing I can use composite and S-Video (does a S-Video to BNC breakout exist?)

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

>> No.1824736
File: 2.67 MB, 4128x2322, 20140731_223413.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1824736

>>1824727

The front of the monitors.

>> No.1824740
File: 1.23 MB, 2322x4128, 20140731_223103.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1824740

>>1824736

Model no. Manufacture date.

Are these worth keeping until I make the leap to a PVM at some point?

>> No.1824872

Anyone have any ideas one what's wrong with my RGB mod?
>>1824807
>>1824807

>> No.1824897

>>1824378
S-video is fine for nearly every /vr/ game. It's only noticeably worse than component/RGB when you get to ~500px-wide games. For 256px- or 320px-wide games, s-video has all the bandwidth you need.

>> No.1824908

>>1824727
Looks like composite-only.

>> No.1824909

>>1824727
Probably more to the point to just use female BNC to female phono/RCA?

You can go from BNC to S-Video, but the problem is that the S-Video input on your monitor will be male, so you wouldn't be able to plug in any vidya into it. (It'd be fine for something with female-out like a VCR though).

Even further, since your monitors only take composite, you lose S-video's main benefit of sending a separated Luminance and Chrominance (Y/C) signal.

>> No.1825043 [DELETED] 

>>1824872

I did that mod 3 days ago, just followed the instructions on retrorgb and everything worked fine, are you sure those resistors are 75 ohm? my resistors have different color-code than yours.

Also you check if you connected the 5v and ground cables correctly to the pcb, why aren't you using the sync?

Everything else looks fine though.

Also for some reason I didn't noticed much difference with RGB on my N64, but my SNES jr looks gorgeous now.

>> No.1825051

>>1824872
I did that mod 3 days ago, just followed the instructions on retrorgb and everything worked fine, are you sure those resistors are 75 ohm? my resistors have different color-code than yours.

You can check if you connected the 5v and ground cables correctly to the pcb too.

Also, why you didn't used the sync?

Everything else looks fine though.

For some reason I didn't noticed much difference with RGB on my N64, but my SNES jr looks gorgeous now.

>> No.1825057

>>1825051
>are you sure those resistors are 75 ohm
Yes; Package says so, as does my multimeter.

>You can check if you connected the 5v and ground cables correctly to the pcb too
They are as far as I can tell. I can read 5v(it was actually hovering closer to 6 or so) off of one of the capacitor's legs.

>Also, why you didn't used the sync?
My cable is wired for composite video as sync and as such, composite sync won't do anything for me.

As I said in the other thread, I believe the amp is to blame; Jumping from S-RGB A gives me a clear, bright image, be it only of one color.

Could soldering 5v and ground to the excess bits of capacitor legs rather than the through hole be causing this?

>> No.1825079

>>1825057
>Could soldering 5v and ground to the excess bits of capacitor legs rather than the through hole be causing this?

Nah, they're still making contact, you're probably right; that amp is not working correctly.

The last thing I can think of are the cables, I pinched them when I was bolting my n64 together and had to solder new ones.

If that's not it, then the amp is definitely bad,

>> No.1825082

>>1824727
>>1824736
>>1824740
Only has composite inputs mate.

They're still pretty cool! They really are cubes, they look pretty cute for tv sets. Get yourself some BNC adapters and test them out.

>> No.1825092

>>1825079
>pinched
Not possible; System is still benched(sitting on top of another SNES actually), and I used the same piece of wire to jump with as I did in the circuit.

I think I'll just wire it up from the SRGB, and try the circuit on my 64; If that doesn't work, I have a second amp to try.

>> No.1825483
File: 1.13 MB, 2460x3280, 100_8780.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1825483

>>1825092
6 hours of waste and 3 hours of productivity later.

Other than DKC1/2 and presumably 3, the 75ohm resistors are perfect and make everything look like candy. Something in the mid 80s would be likely fix this, but there's no way I'm doing anymore work on that Mini aside from grinding the lockout chips whenever I can get my hands on a dremel.

>> No.1825539

>>1825057
I did this mod a couple weeks ago. My problem was soldering the chip to the board. Take a multimeter and try to measure from the actual legs of the amp to the ends of the wires. See if anything isn't connected.

>> No.1825551
File: 1.64 MB, 3280x2460, 100_8768.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1825551

>>1825539
Everything on both ends read fine right to the legs of the chip: Video signals, 5v and ground; There's just nothing passing through the amp itself, resulting in the sync only image in >>1824807.

The gray bar is much harder to see over the Mini than it is on the older model(not a 1CHIP). I'm willing to bet if I was running composite sync rather than composite video, it'd be even more difficult to spot. Not worth all the trouble though. I'll try to take some more photos when I wake up; I'm too fucking tired right now.

>> No.1825678
File: 1.80 MB, 3264x2448, 2014-08-01 09.41.02.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1825678

I found this old Sony PVM-8041Q at work and it surprisingly still works. Is this thing worth taking with me? If I don't take it, they are just going to toss it.

>> No.1825686

>>1825678
It's free and they're going to toss it.
Take it.

>> No.1825697
File: 1.73 MB, 3264x2448, 2014-08-01 10.03.35.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1825697

>>1825686
Back picture, not as many inputs as I would like.

It has a small amount of burn in and the image is skewed to the right slightly.

>> No.1825824

>>1825697
Pretty standard numbat of inputs for a PVM. AND it takes component! I'd take it in a heartbeat.

>> No.1826115

My CRT is 120 volts AC and 90 watts.

Is that really just 0.75 amps, or am I doing something wrong?

>> No.1826171
File: 2.63 MB, 4320x3240, eizo21popclose2[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1826171

>>1821440
What the fuck do you call this, then?

Hint: this is not 240p.

>> No.1826190

>>1826171
720 x 400 @ 70 Hz vga Textmode

>> No.1826210

>>1826190
POP ran at line-doubled 320x200. Doesn't that make the effective resolution more like 320x400?

>> No.1826358
File: 1.71 MB, 2592x1944, 5c685fc8-96c4-4d81-a371-fbb55e40e.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1826358

some more pvm porn

>> No.1826371
File: 1.05 MB, 2592x1944, e76d5858-e841-4a1b-943c-6de426417.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1826371

>>1826358
sorry for crappy camera

>> No.1827040

>>1825483
so, what was the problem?

>> No.1827047
File: 1.79 MB, 2592x1936, WP_20140729_22_18_56_Pro - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1827047

>>1817242
Blue PVM anon here. Beat the piss out of it with a magnet, and this was my result. I got some actual color in the middle, but overall I might have made it worse. Damn.

>under eosload

>> No.1827052
File: 1.76 MB, 2592x1936, WP_20140729_23_02_35_Pro - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1827052

>>1827047
It's so sharp, even with S-video, if only the colors actually worked!

>why me.jpg

>> No.1827054

>>1827052
Did you try to degauss it?

>> No.1827085

>>1827047
Why the hell did you take a magnet to it??

>> No.1827086
File: 47 KB, 700x528, simpsons.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1827086

>>1827054
Oddly enough, when it auto-degausses itself when powering on, or when I manually trigger it, the colors start to err towards the blue/purple/pink tones from when the color was at least uniformly screwed at the beginning.

I've spent a bit time looking for parts for a DIY degaussing tool, but nothing I've found has worked so far.

I think I just need a proper degaussing coil.

>> No.1827101

>>1827085
Because I wanted to see how well the monitor's degaussing coil worked.

I've also realized that considering the cost of buying tools or paying someone to fix it would cost as much or more than to just buy another monitor outright.

>> No.1827126

>>1827101
It looks like the color guns are just being driven incorrectly. Surely that easily fixed?

I mean, maybe it's like that because it was carelessly refurbished in the first place, I don't know. But it seems trivial.

>> No.1827149

>>1827101
i've been doing some reading into CRT technology the last few days, and the issue you have sounds like it might be related to "purity", which is the configuration that helps the right gun hit the right color phosphor

http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq/tvcrtpca.htm

>> No.1827929

Just picked up an HP D2842A VGA monitor for free, but I'm having a problem with brightness on it. Even with the manual brightness knob cranked up and the brightness turned up all the way in the menu, the picture looks too dark. I'm certain it's not the VGA cable causing it because it works fine with other monitors, both CRT and LCD. What else can I take a look at to try and fix it?

>> No.1828803
File: 262 KB, 1280x960, grid.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1828803

So I ran the 240p test suite and everything on my PVM 14m4u and I see that the screen overscans a bit more on the bottom?

Like, I'd love to set it up perfectly centered but is that even something that's worth messing with?

>> No.1828854

>>1828803
The overscan on the bottom is very common, it's not that bad on your tv, but isn't there underscan on the left?

>> No.1828880

>>1828803
>>1828854

Isn't there an underscan button on PVMs?

>> No.1828962

>>1828803
you can shift the picture around a bit in software by editing your modelines

>> No.1829125

>>1828854
There actually isn't any on the left, it's just a bad picture. There is a tiny bit on the right though.

>>1828880
Yeah, but it reduces the picture size way too much for me to really want to use it all the time.

>>1828962
Hmm... I'll have to read up on it. It's not been detrimental on anything I've played, but I do want to eventually watch some japanese power rangers on it and I hope the subtitles aren't cut off like on all my other tube screens.

>> No.1830490

>>1817187

I cant really tell the difference in this, the Sony has more of a sepia tone.

I just hooked up my upscaler to my 1080p LED display and I personally feel like it looks waay better than both of those shots dude.

>> No.1830534

>>1830490

>liking LCD and LED display shit colors

Disgusting.

>> No.1830576

HOLY FUCKING SHIT

>>428610

So does this mean that we can buy some good ol' Trinitrons and other goodies that the company might have to sell off in bulk?

>> No.1830580

>>1830576
er
>>>/biz/428610

>> No.1831489
File: 9 KB, 239x254, giving no fucks.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1831489

>>1830534

Lmao, colours are colours

>> No.1831512
File: 435 KB, 1920x1080, way_better_than_on_CRT.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1831512

>>1831489

>> No.1831908

For any anons that happen to own an HD CRT, but don't like how retro games look on it due to lack of 240p support, I found an interesting workaround solution involving emulation. If you have a Wii, the latest version of RetroArch has overlay support, and comes with a scanline overlay. Just enable it, and bam, looks extremely similar to a 15KHz TV.

Just a neat little thing I thought I'd share. Of course, this does not apply to using real consoles. I'd imagine you'd need a scanline generator for that, maybe combined with a proper line-doubler to avoid deinterlacing bullshit.

>> No.1832994
File: 3.07 MB, 3264x2448, 20140803_182359.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1832994

Hey /crt/

So I found this Trinitron WEGA KV-27FV17 by the dumpster of my apartment building friday morning before going to work. I've adjusted the geometry as best as I can and it looks great when doing vertical scrolling or static screens.

The issue is that when doing horizontal scrolling I get the fun-house mirror/speed bumps/water wave effect on both the left and right side of the screen covering the entire screen from top to bottom. It makes playing sidescrollers awkward. I haven't been able to find a solution to this.

Any way to fix the horizontal linearity? I'm open to suggestions.

pic related

>> No.1833126

>>1832994
You mean it's distorting the horizontal geometry so that as things move onto a screen (on a sidescroller) they seem to speed up/slow down (depending on the effect being convex or concave) as they reach the center of the screen? And this is only on the sides of the screen? Or a concave/convex effect all the way across the screen?

Are there any potentiometers controlling that effect? If not, do you think that you'll have to manually mess with the components inside and replace ones you diagnose to not be producing a correct variance in signal?

>> No.1833242

>>1833126
When things move onto or off screen. It's like there's two vertical sections that are "raised," one on the left and one on the right, and the pixels are fatter in those sections. It looks like the picture is getting closer to you when something scrolls over those areas. It is only on the sides of the screen. It's really only noticeable when something pans horizontally.

I have no idea about the pots, but I'm pretty sure I would have to remove the back shell to access them if they exist. I don't have the tools to diagnose if there's some component that's acting up.

It's just annoying. I really like the picture aside from this one issue. Is this a common issue with flat tube CRTs? I've only had the curved kind before.

>> No.1833243

Hey, PVM bros. What did you guys pay for your tubes? I'm looking to get my hands on a 14m4u. What should I reasonably be expecting to pay? There's nothing local as far as I can tell, so I'm shooting for <=100 USD (shipping included).

>> No.1833258

>>1833242
I've never had a flat tube so I can't say, but it's definitely some geometry issue solvable by tweaking components. I mean, everything else is working

>> No.1833265

>>1833243
I paid $75 for mine, but I got lucky and found one while I was visiting family out of state, so that doesn't really help.

>> No.1833268

>>1833258
Also, considering most tubes can control the geometry of a picture, I'm surprised they never implemented a hardware version of a 'screensaver' where it would just dynamically periodically adjust the screen geometry on a still picture (or on a user input command).

>> No.1833297
File: 20 KB, 364x344, 1306849466834.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1833297

Any place that makes/sells new CRTs I can order online? Or should I just hop on craigslist and see what I can find?

>> No.1833298

>>1833243
There was absolutely no chance at finding PVM's on Craigslist or anything else local for me, so I wound up paying $50 for my 14" and $100 for my 20" PVM's on Ebay, not including shipping which was about $40 for each. If you go with Ebay you'll have to watch stuff for a while to get prices that low.

>> No.1833301

>>1833297
Best go with Craigslist. AFAIK, there was only one Japanese company that still makes CRT's, and they were around $7000-$8000 each.

>> No.1833304

>>1833301
Ah well, figured as much. Thanks

>> No.1833305

>>1833297
>>1833301

What about >>1830580? Now that Sony's liquidating assets, do you think they'll be selling some goodies in bulk?

>> No.1833354

>>1833305
Personally, I don't think Sony has a whole lot of CRT stuff stocked up. Even if they did, most of it probably will stay in Japan.

>> No.1833373

>>1833354
Buy from them in bulk and import, then sell excess for profit?

>> No.1833514

>>1833373
Who's going to buy a bunch of CRT's and import them to western countries? I don't think there's enough demand for CRT's for that to be profitable, not when we already have plenty of WEGA's and PVM's available that places are getting rid of here. Shipping one of those monitors from Japan to a western country probably would cost more than just buy one off of Ebay right now.

>> No.1833527

>>1833514
Eh. Depends on how low of a price they're willing to set since they're desperate. But if you can find cheap shipping then it could be doable.

>> No.1834259
File: 533 KB, 1632x1224, 1443a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1834259

You guys ready for some PVM porn ?
I picked this bad boy at work, about a year ago. I forgotten it, using as a bedside desk since then.
Currently not working unfortunately, the power has been cut, and I don't have any cable laying around to swap it.

>> No.1834261
File: 620 KB, 1224x1632, 1443.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1834261

>>1834259
Look at all dem sweet inputs.
I have to pick up one of those Scart/BNC converter once I get the power cable issue fixed.

>> No.1834269
File: 1.35 MB, 2304x1728, 100_1418.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1834269

>>1834261

>CHU de Nantes

Belle pêche mon gars! Je possède un modèle de la gamme juste au dessus perso, un PVM 1444QM (tube de meilleur qualité, venant des studio TF1 lui par contre).
Le tient à l'air d'avoir une prise RGB TTL par contre, je suis jaloux.

>> No.1834293

>>1834269
J'ai aussi un 2130QM pour les consoles, et un KV-32FQ70 dans le salon pour les Laserdiscs et DVD.

What is the use of these 9-pins Digital RGB btw ? I have a Commodore 128 with one of these ports, will it be compatible ?

>> No.1834309

>>1834293

J'ai un KV-14M1B à coté pour ma part. Je pense étendre mon parc d'écran 15kHz avec au moins un Kx21-PS1 pour tout ce qui est LD/VHS/DVD, et surement des Kx14-CP1 pour les MSX que je cherche à obtenir.

Pour le Digital RGb, c'est pour tout ce qui est Commodore 128, et carte graphique de type CGA et EGA sur PC. Le port db9 TTL RGB est standardisé, donc oui je pense que ça vas marcher.

>> No.1834973

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-MV13M3-13-CRT-Television-/221503763590?pt=Televisions&hash=item3392a73486

Is dis gud?

>> No.1834998

>>1834973
Not really, it is too expensive for such a small screen that only has RF and composite inputs.

>> No.1835005

>>1834998
I really only need something small for N64 games. It is a bit pricey though. I can't find shit with 13" CRTs on Craigslist though, where else could I find one?

>> No.1835039

>>1817069
I'm fucking struggling trying to put up a VGA to SCART cable.
Any advices ?

>> No.1835061

>>1835005
Do you have any thrift shop/ charity nearby ? It's usually the way to go.

>> No.1835068

>>1835061
I think I have one. Good idea, thanks.

>> No.1835334

>>1835039
Some anon said all he had to do was solder the Hsync and Vsync pins to match the Csync on SCART. However VGA may be the problem, because as was said before VGA likes to receive meta data outside of the main 5 signal pins to identify what monitor a PC connects to.

Also, SCART is a directional cable and you need to know what you're doing when working with it, as one of the input pins gets swapped over from the input pins to the output pins, if your SCART cable even has all the pins.

>> No.1835925
File: 2.15 MB, 3000x2250, IMG_6053.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1835925

>>1826358
>You will never have those scanlines

Here is my new (shitty) 20FS100....

>> No.1835940

>>1835925
... and here is my XBR910.

The FS100 has really shitty convergence but the only way to adjust it is manual shit on the back of the tube though.

The XBR910 has much better convergence (after quite a few days in the service menu) but has to upscale the 480i/480p signals. I'd get a scaler box but shit's expensive yo.

>> No.1835945
File: 1.73 MB, 3000x2250, IMG_6061.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1835945

>>1835940
>No pic

Fuck

>> No.1835954

>>1835940
Wut? If you feed the XBR910 a 480p signal, it would display it as is without any upscaling. 480i does need to be deinterlaced, though.

>> No.1835978
File: 2.11 MB, 3000x2250, IMG_6068.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1835978

>>1835954
>480p not enabled
Poopie.

Still no scanlines tho.

>> No.1835983

>>1835978
What's that monitor's maximum vertical resolution?

>> No.1835993

>>1835978
Given the XBR910 is an HD set, at 480p, there technically are scanlines, given much like 240p on a 480i set, it only draws every other line. They are just very, very subtle and nigh unnoticeable at normal viewing distance. On my 30XS955, I can only see them if I have my face to the glass.

>> No.1835998

>>1835983
I think somewhere around 1000. Wikipedia says 1440x1080i but I'm not sure about that.

>> No.1836004

>>1835998
Wikipedia is somewhat on the ballpark on that one. The XBR910 uses a Super Fine Pitch tube, just like the XBR960 and the XS955 series, which IIRC resolves about 1400 lines.

>> No.1836006

>>1835993
Well, not easily visible scanlines.

Need box to force 240p

>> No.1836013

Has anyone ever tired hooking their computer to a CRT TV?

>> No.1836019

>>1836006
Why would you want scanlines on Wind Waker? The game runs at 480i/480p. You'd be losing visual information.

That said, check out this post >>1831908

It only applies to emulation, but it IS possible to get 240p-esque scanlines on a CRT HDTV. Looks really nice.

>> No.1836020
File: 2.02 MB, 2560x1920, 20140804_205000.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1836020

Hey guys. I picked this KV27S40 up yesterday and there is a green tinge in the upper left quarter of the screen.

I figure it needs to be degaussed so I tried the power drill truck. It didn't work. I hear the degauss "buzzpop" when I turn the tv on when it's cold but it won't fix.

Any ideas?

>> No.1836024

>>1836020
I think I see your problem. The TV is on its side!

>> No.1836026

>>1835940
Mind sharing what you adjusted in the service menu to improve the convergence?

>> No.1836039
File: 1.14 MB, 3000x2250, IMG_6069.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1836039

>>1836013
Yes. Looks like ass in my case. Unless your settings are perfect it looks terrible, and there are shadowing issues otherwise.

Picture is in 720p. 1080i looks worse.

Unless it's a CRT PC monitor (FW900), it's not going to be worth it. Good for movies though.

>>1836020
Mite B fucked. See if you have landing settings in the service menu. Otherwise you might need to tape a magnet to the tube to adjust it properly.

Or it might just be fucked.

>>1836019
I'll try that next time I mess with it. I want scanlines all the time.

>>1836026
There is an entire section for convergence settings (D-CONV). It's still far from perfect, but it's better. There are guides online for that kind of thing, but I still might try and hunt down a professional calibrating person at some point

>> No.1836060

>>1836039
>Unless it's a CRT PC monitor (FW900), it's not going to be worth it. Good for movies though.
I was hoping to try it out with Shovel Knight

>> No.1836062

>>1836039
It is exactly my intention to find a BNC capable monitor/TV supporting resolutions of at least 240p/480i and up (hopefully with an actual VGA port as well to avoid hassle) to connect a computer and physical consoles to. Got any tips?

>> No.1836168

>>1836062
If you want to play old consoles then PVMs are your best bet by far. Superb picture quality and lots of manual adjustments for geometry and convergence. They also use BNC RGB connections, and I believe you can just get a VGA adapter for that stuff. Downside is they don't go higher than 600 or 800 lines vertically, so it's kinda useless for HD stuff.

If you want to play newer vidya then FD XBRs are pretty good. The 910 and 960 seem to be the best models, the 970 was a re-badged HS500 something I believe. All of the 400/700/800 stuff is 4:3, which is OK if you like letterboxing. I think you could get away with it on a 40" or 36", anything smaller and I wouldn't want to do 16:9.

The 36XBR200 is only 480i (maybe P) capable, which I -think- makes it a fantastic retro vidya CRT if you want something big. There is one in phoenix right now but you'll have to talk the dumb cunt down from 185. I wouldn't pay more than 50 for any CRT I didn't really, really, really want. 34XBR960, 40" XBR, and a very nice PVM are the only things I can think that fit that criteria.

>>1836060
Mite work. Honestly for PC stuff, you can usually get some filters that make it look good enough on LCDs. As long as the text isn't super small it should work alright on a CRT, but it looks like the game is 16:9.

The main thing about CRTs that makes them horrible for PC use is that they have to be adjusted absolutely perfect for text and windows to not look like ass. Games usually aren't as bad, and videos even less so.

Take mine for example, it looks alright enough for games but on a desktop you can tell that the geometry is fucked up around the corners and the convergence is far from perfect. Also the upper right corner is completely fucked up.

>> No.1836262

>>1836168
Thank you for the recommendations. I prefer 16:9 monitors for stretching on 3D retro 4:3 games and letter-boxing for 2D retro 4:3 games. I know the disadvantage for that on small screens, but I'm hoping to get something for use at my battle-station, not necessarily as a HT display so I wouldn't mind the extra small space (perhaps a nice size for a 16:9 tube for me is something above 20 inches but not that much more considering my main LCD is 27"). The HD CRTs might do well as a suitable second display for my modern PC, but I'm looking mainly for retro capable equipment atm. Do the PVMs have anything that suits my description above?

Got any more tips on tuning a CRT for PC text and windows?

>> No.1836306

>>1827929
Bump for some help with this. Still having problems with the monitor.

>> No.1836308
File: 11 KB, 640x480, D2842a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1836308

>>1836306
whoops, forgot my pic

>> No.1836309

>>1817194
>>1817547
>>1817569

thanks dudes sorry for late reply, it's looking perfect now

>> No.1836319

>>1836306
Tube might just be worn out.

There isn't much special about most old CRT computer monitors. They are pretty sharp compared to CRT TVs and they have no input lag, but aside from the high end stuff, they don't have much else about them that stands out.

>>1836262
I don't know of any 16:9 CRT PVMs but I could be wrong. I imagine if they did exist they would be expensive as hell though.

You're never really gonna get computer text looking great on a CRT TV. If your main goal is old games I'd look mainly for a 4:3 PVM and keep an eye on your local craigs for possible deals on higher end trinitrons. Another thing to keep in mind is that PVMs will mostly be 8"-20", tapering off above 14" or so, whilst most TVs that you find will be at least 27", if not 32 or 36. Wide screen models are all 30" or 34".

If you've got infinite money, I'd get a 4:3 PVM and a 16:9 XBR to cover any possible uses other than general computer monitor use. Little note, be careful putting two CRTs close to each other. I discolored my XBR a bit today with my 20" FS100 degaussing near it. Thankfully the XBR has settings to fix that right up...

>> No.1836331

>>1836319
Yeah on Craigslist there's a 27" Trinitron being given away free right now in my area. But I don't think those Trinitrons have BNC or VGA, (or at least some other form of RGB) do they?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/hsh/4601016314.html

The only problem is that it's too heavy and space consuming for me, and I don't have a car to pick it up. So close yet so far away on foot.

>> No.1836332

>>1836331
Er, 30" I guess. I suppose I was looking at another one.

>> No.1836404

>>1836309
What did you do?

>> No.1836541
File: 28 KB, 726x789, cable1dy6.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1836541

>>1835334
Shiet, seems more complicated that I expected.
I'm gonna try pic related, hope it's enough.

>> No.1836821

>>1823629
>tfw no GC component cable

>> No.1836934
File: 726 KB, 3000x2000, IMG_3129-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1836934

>>1836821
>tfw Official GameCube SCART
>tfw no PVM-2030

>> No.1836948

>>1836934
that profeel when no profeel

>> No.1836952
File: 78 KB, 378x460, pro_feel.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1836952

>>1836948

>> No.1837000

I believe the yoke is loose in my PVM. Might call this old TV repair shop that in town. Should I even try? If they can actually do it will it kill my wallet?

>> No.1837021

To people with incorrect colors on PVMs: make sure that the tv is set to component or rgb depending on what color space you are using. I had this issue too until I realized my USA PVM was in component mode instead of rgb. Fixed it in the menu and now its fine.

>> No.1837024

>>1827052
I'm having the same issues and a degaussing coil didn't work.
If you make any advances please update in the thread.

>> No.1837651

>>1831512
Don't forget the upscaling artifacts!

>> No.1837771

>>1837021
lel, I bet that's all this guy had to do: >>1836309

Meanwhile there was somebody telling him to open that shit up.

>hey doctor. I have a headache and a little dizziness
>ok, I'll perform your brain surgery after lunch

>> No.1837838
File: 131 KB, 1272x616, $_20.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1837838

please help /crt/, which one should I buy for SNES and Gamecube?
I dont care about the size, I just want the best picture quality.
Is the rounded screen a big disadvantage?

>> No.1837928

>>1837838
Flat one, it will have more inputs and a comb filter. Also probably much sharper picture and prominant scanlines. Although the curved will be more "arcade like." Use svideo cables.

>> No.1837954

>>1837838
I would get the flat one, but make sure that the geometry is correct.
It was a big issue with flat screen CRTs

>> No.1838248

>>1837928
>>1837954
thanks, I'll pick it up tomorrow I think.

>> No.1838386

>>1838248
Get the remote, if its not available pick one up of the same brand at goodwill for cheap, and google how to get into the service menu to get the geometry perfect.

>> No.1838395
File: 1.64 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140804_194027.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1838395

>> No.1838404
File: 1.77 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140804_194528.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1838404

>>1838395

>> No.1838427

>>1836013
Ya. I have an old pc permanently hooked up to a crt for emulation.
>>1836039
>There is an entire section for convergence settings (D-CONV)
I really need to have a play with that! The bottom left and right of my set is fucked.

>> No.1838801
File: 3.82 MB, 4128x3096, IMG_20140804_191102.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1838801

>> No.1839887

Halp guys. I my neighbor is moving out and wants to give me his old crt. I've never had a crt before (literally, the first TV I came in contact with was already a TFT since I have never seen a TV until I was 16) and I heard a lot of horror stories about them blowing up or imploding 'n shit.

Are they true? How often does that shit happen?

>> No.1839906

>>1839887

For the to blow up, you REALLY have to treat it badly! The only one I've ever heard imploding was simply thrown from the third floor of a flat. The tube is made of Leaded glass, and that stuff is solid as fuck.

Just be sure to carry it well, and not to drop it. Never put it on a place that might collapse, and you'll be good.

Anyway, what kind of shithole are you living in for never having a TV until you were 16? My parents had one in the 70s when they were still living in Algeria.

>> No.1839918

>>1839887
Explode? Never. Implode? Almost never. They can implode if the glass is broken but to be honest that's nearly impossible to do unless you drop it or intentionally try to break it. That glass is pretty thick.

>> No.1839924

>>1839906
My parents died when I was 4 months old and I got put into a strictly catholic orphanage, no TV, no Internet, no nothing until I got adopted at 16.

>> No.1839927

>>1839924

Eh, sorry mate.

>> No.1840013

any recommended places you guys would look for sony PVM/BVM monitors besides thrift stores, or is that really my best bet?

>> No.1840017

>>1840013
Recycling centers.
I scored my two PVM while I worked for one them. Look for places that dismantle electronics appliances, they will sometime let you buy something from their stock.

>> No.1840252
File: 592 KB, 762x948, wt.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1840252

Hey guys, I was hoping someone could help me out.
My sony trinitron (not sure of the model number..) has a very very faint flickering in the upper righthand corner.
I figured it could be because of my speakers being close by but that wouldn't make sense as they're closer to the bottom righthand side.
I'd post a video, but I can't capture it well.
tl;dr very faint flickering in one corner, wat do?

>> No.1840268

>>1840252

I dunno, hit it firmly and see if it does something good. When it comes to CRTs, percussive solutions can solve some issues.

>> No.1840519

>>1831908
I more or less do the same thing on PC with a CRT monitor, except I use a shader that oscillates the scanlines when 400+ height resolution is the input. Basically turns 31khz into 15khz.

>> No.1840743

So a friend of mine was recently given a 16:9 CRT that looked beautiful, but after one night of use, it will not turn back on. Pressing the power button makes a brief buzzing sound, as though the TV is turning on and immediately back off in one instant, but nothing ever appears on the screen.

Does anyone have an idea of what causes this and if it can be fixed? My first guess is a bad capacitor, because it seems like it's trying but isn't getting enough juice to start, but I don't know the first thing about TV repair.

>> No.1841113

>>1817369
>>1817385

E771p can be excellent if you know what you're doing

see:

>>1838404
>>1838395

>> No.1841123

>>1841113

>>1838404 and >>1838395 smell the fake scan-lines.

>> No.1841125

>>1841123
>muh 15khz

>> No.1841158

>>1841125

>better tell him about how he's obsessed with 15kHz monitors, it'll look like I've won this argumentation!

I own more 31kHz monitors than 15kHz ones.

31kHz monitors are good for what they are made for: displaying a 480p video signal and more. They can display nice scan-lines at 640*480 and on line-doubled 320*240.
But trying to make them look like a 15kHz monitor will alway result in a failure because it just looks fake. It's like trying to make an LCD display scan-lines, this guy a few thread ago posted some comparisons between upscaller + added scan-lines vs real CRT, and it looked all bland and fake. That's how these screens look too, fake..

>> No.1841170

Anyone using vmmaker/crtemudriver? What's the lowest resolution i can make it output? IE can i get it to output something ridiculously low like the gameboy's native resolution of 160x144?

>> No.1841171

>>1841123

Um, it looks identical to a Sony PVM really, same level of scanline sharpness

>>1841158

No, it's not anything like a scanline filter on an LCD. The scanlines are still real, they're just sharper due to the tighter dot pitch. I've been doing the 3840x480 with interlacing shaders method for a while now and it looks a good deal better than my CRT TV when I introduce some horizontal blurring.

15khz displays aren't really anything special outside of having native inputs for real consoles.

>> No.1841173

How do Panasonic Tau TVs compare to, say, a 200x Trinitron? Debating on whether I should buy this 21" Tau off CL...

>> No.1841178
File: 533 KB, 866x988, crt4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1841178

>>1841123

Here's some more fake scanlines

Oh wait

>> No.1841192

>>1841123

Looks plenty real to me.

>> No.1841229

>>1841171

It's TOO sharp, that's the problem.

>>1841178

In this one the pixels tend to blend a horizontally, on the others they don't.
But hey, maybe you're the kind of guy who say that emulators are so much accurate today that it there's no reason not to emulate and that using the real thing is for hipster faggots.

>> No.1841281
File: 1.30 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20131013_011625.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1841281

>>1841229
>In this one the pixels tend to blend a horizontally, on the others they don't.

Are you saying this isn't blended horizontally at all:

>>1838404

If so, you're wrong, because that's clearly got horizontal blur, which was in fact done by a signal blur emulation shader, because it really is too sharp otherwise. The one above it is considerably blurrier and has NTSC artifacts as well. The high horizontal output resolution (3840) makes the blurs look extremely convincing as well, while it looks bad at standard 640x480 due to the limited resolution.

Pic is the same monitor with no horizontal blurring. It does look oversharp here and a bit unnatural looking compared to the previous pics.

>> No.1841343
File: 1.97 MB, 230x170, 1393991582767.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1841343

9"or 13"?

>> No.1841349

>>1841343

13" is the perfect size for a little TV/monitor. 9" is too little.

>> No.1841354

>>1841349
Yeah I just need something that can sit on my desk for SNES/64 etc.

>> No.1841418

>>1841281

Yup this one looks unnatural compared to the previous one, but the previous one still look unnatural too, you can still guess that the resolution is way higher, it's still too sharp to be looking natural.
It's just emulation. You can appreciate it, you can try to be as faithful to the original as you can, but it'll never be the same.

>> No.1841448

>>1840743
unplug it for 20 minutes then try again

>> No.1841639

>>1841418
> but the previous one still look unnatural too

I cannot see how because it has

-variable width scanlines that bloom on bright colors
-natural looking horizontal blurring

I've compared it with other CRTs and while it is a good deal sharper, it is not "unnatural". I also think it's better than most 15khz displays I've seen since it has no visible convergence issues at this resolution and very little geometric distortions, problems that a lot of CRT TVs have, so I'm not having to constantly adjust setting, it just works.

>You can appreciate it, you can try to be as faithful to the original as you can, but it'll never be the same.

Emulation can easily be better than the original.

>> No.1842178

>>1841639

>-natural looking horizontal blurring

There you are: it isn't. The blooming might be close, the blur isn't natural, it doesn't look that blurred, it's still too sharp.
Also, 31kHz monitors can have severe geometry issues too: my HP Ultra VGA 1280 had some pretty bad ones which were worse than the ones I ever experienced on any 15kHz monitor, while never experiencing them on my Amiga monitor nor on my Sony PVM.
As I said, 31kHz have great scan-lines when you use a console that can output 480p like the dreamcast, or a PC game which output at the same resolution (Raiden III is particularly beautiful on my Samsung Syncmaster), or even line-doubled DOS games (Prince of Persia and Halloween Harry are really good looking). But attempting to make emulated 240p games look like what it is supposed to look like on a 15kHz monitor alway end up being a failure, with some attempts that look closers to the natural ones than others (like yours) while still managing to have issues.

>Emulation can easily be better than the original.

No it can't. It can superficially alter the outputs like the sampling rate for the audio or the rendering of the scene, which amelioration are often worse than the original, but the accuracy is still really low even today, and the synchronization is plainly bad most of the time, and these parameters are still the most important in an emulator. FM synthesis emulation sound bad, the SID isn't emulated correctly as it can only reproduce a fraction of it's features, the 680x0 processor family still has inaccuracy in it(s emulation, and many more issues like the approximative answers of custom chips according to the observations of the real ones leading to some games being completely broken when played on an emulator.

A few years earlier, I would have said that these are perfect, but I would have said that Znes is a great emulator, even if some well-known games like Yoshi Story and Axelay are broken at some point.

>> No.1842220

>>1840013
Ebay and make some friends at your local tv station or e-waste recycling center/surplus outlet.

>> No.1842370

>>1841158
Then why not use an interlaced signal utilizing both fields, but really just put repeat scanline data from a one-field 240p signal into the second field in the small vertical lines between every progressive one-field line. Then every 3rd and 4th (or every 4th, 5th, and 6th if even smaller) scan lines (from both fields) you don't output any data? That way you can customize scanline size like you can on LCDs, but have a more 'natural' look?

>> No.1842379

>>1842178
>sampling rate for the audio
Resampling the audio is the only option for platforms with asynchronous audio clocks (eg. almost everything). RetroArch is the only platform that gets this right. It's inaudible unless you have something seriously misconfigured.

>rendering of the scene
Filters, higher resolution options, etc. All optional.

>synchronization is plainly bad most of the time
Not with any good emulator. ZSNES is no longer state of the art.

>FM synthesis emulation sound bad
FM synthesis is often perfect. If it sounds different it's because the frequency response of the DAC/amp/speakers is different, and that varied hugely even with original hardware.

>the SID isn't emulated correctly
JSIDPlay2 emulates it perfectly. Distortion is accurately modeled based on measurement from real chips. Remember that SID filters are analog and there's a lot of variation between individual chips. If you want it to sound like a specific chip you'll have to measure it yourself.

>the 680x0 processor family still has inaccuracy
I play games, not test roms.

>approximative answers of custom chips
Most of these are perfect now.

>> No.1842397

>>1842379

>FM synthesis is often perfect.

That's not what that pain in my ears tells me when I compare Thunderforce 4 on emulator various emulators and PCs and on my megadrive.

>JSIDPlay2 emulates it perfectly. Distortion is accurately modeled based on measurement from real chips. Remember that SID filters are analog and there's a lot of variation between individual chips. If you want it to sound like a specific chip you'll have to measure it yourself.

Not it isn't emulated perfectly. Every year there are new C64 demos that can't run on emulators BECAUSE they find new features of the SID. If there's something that is not ready to be emulated perfectly, it's the SID.

>Most of these are perfect now.

They aren't. Even on Amiga, which emulation is considered "perfect" by many, I had issues with demo running on configurations that normally WORKS on a real Amiga, but are totally screwed when running on emulators. Same with the 8-bit Atari computers, Arcade PCBs,

Perfect emulation still doesn't exist. It can be really accurate with some games, but we're still far from being perfect.

>>1842370

Because plugging my console on a 15kHz monitor and turning the whole setup on just take 10 seconds for a better result without heavy tweaking, just calibration the very first time I use it, just like all monitors.

>> No.1842409 [DELETED] 

>>1842397
>pain in my ears
The digital output is bit for bit identical. You're simply using better DAC/amp/speakers with better frequency response.

>C64 demos that can't run on emulators
Name a demo that JSIDPlay2 can't play the music from.

>Even on Amiga
Amiga is pretty much a worst case scenario for cycle accurate emulation. Synchronization is always going to be expensive because there's so much to synchronize. Other platforms don't have this problem.

>8-bit Atari computers, Arcade PCBs
Less popular than consoles so less development effort. In most cases to technical barrier to perfection.

>> No.1842413

>>1842397
>pain in my ears
The digital output is bit for bit identical. You're simply using better DAC/amp/speakers with better frequency response.

>C64 demos that can't run on emulators
Name a demo that JSIDPlay2 can't play the music from.

>Even on Amiga
Amiga is pretty much a worst case scenario for cycle accurate emulation. Synchronization is always going to be expensive because there's so much to synchronize. Other platforms don't have this problem.

>8-bit Atari computers, Arcade PCBs
Less popular than consoles so less development effort. In most cases no technical barrier to perfection.

>> No.1842430

>>1842397
>10 seconds for a better result without heavy tweaking
Well sure if you want to spend more money and consume more space. But I know there's got to be good all-in-one solutions out there.

>> No.1842491

>>1842413

>The digital output is bit for bit identical.

Prove it. Give me the source of this information.

>Name a demo that JSIDPlay2 can't play the music from.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K48sUXrf0qw

>Amiga is pretty much a worst case scenario for cycle accurate emulation. Synchronization is always going to be expensive because there's so much to synchronize

The Amiga have no more co-processors than the SNES.

>Less popular than consoles so less development effort.

It might be understandable for 8-bit Atari computers, but Arcade PCBs? It has more demand than the Amiga.

>>1842430

>Spend more money

Less than 10 bucks per game time to time isn't that expensive, and the consoles and monitor are long time investment, it doesn't cost that much. At least, you don't have to battle with the plugin to try to imitate what this setup does naturally.
As for space, CRTs aren't like LCD, you can still put stuff on they, they won't fall nor they will burn, especially on PVMs and professional monitors with their all-square cases.
Almost all hobbies require an investment, I don't know why retro gaming would be an exception to this rule.

>> No.1842530

>>1842379
>If you want it to sound like a specific chip you'll have to measure it yourself.
How?
It's not like i can find a single setting which sounds exactly like SOASC.

>I play games, not test roms.
0/10

>Most of these are perfect now.
Yeah, you telling me.

I do hack NTSC only NES games to work better on a PAL NES.
On Freedom Force i made a attempt to add a 50 line delay right before the NMI handler.
It worked on every emulator but didn't on the real thing.
The discovery isn't old that the PAL PPU does access (evaluate) the sprite OAM after the first 20 lines when the NMI starts and even when rendering is disabled (not the case with NTSC).

http://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11041

>>1842413
>Synchronization is always going to be expensive because there's so much to synchronize. Other platforms don't have this problem.
Oscillators in SNES:
21.47727Mhz (6 * NTSC subcarrier) or 21.28137Mhz (1,2 * 4 * PAL subcarrier) as main system clock
24.576Mhz as system clock for the audio subsystem
and most external coprocessors have their own free running oscillators. The only exceptions i know are a few early SuperFX games, SGB1 and the SA-1.
Good luck syncing that, real oscillators have a very little derivation which might could get worse after some time.

Now is this more worse than Amiga or not?

>> No.1843081

>>1841448
It's been unplugged for a day, and I just confirmed that it still won't turn on.

>> No.1843265

>>1842178
>it doesn't look that blurred, it's still too sharp.

You can make it way blurrier than that, but being really blurry isn't a good thing.

All this is really nitpicks anyway. Fact is you can get really good looking low res from a PC CRT for a lot less effort than trying get hacked drivers or specific video cards. Not to mention PC CRTs are much more common than high quality 15khz pro monitors and can give you similar quality. See: >>1838801

Another guy's Mitsubishi Diamondtron using the same ultrawide 480p display mode with blur+interlaced scanlines. Saying that looks unnatural would be like saying a Sony PVM looks unnatural.

>> No.1843283

>>1843265
Could you maybe point me in the direction of some reading material that would help me to achieve said ultrawide display mode? I use a 1800x1440 native CRT and Win7, and I'm curious about this.

>> No.1843315
File: 3.14 MB, 2303x1535, 100_0638_bis.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1843315

>>1843265
>PC CRTs are much more common than high quality 15khz pro monitors

No need for these to have a great looking picture. Pic related, your average shadow mask RGB monitor. It looks pretty damn good imo.

>Saying that looks unnatural would be like saying a Sony PVM looks unnatural.

Nope. Sony PVMs have a more natural, better looking blur, unlike the pics of emulated scan-lines on 31kHz monitors. They look way closer than many other attempts I admit, but they're still not the same, as they're too sharp compared to the PVMs too.

>> No.1843332

>>1843283
http://emulation.gametechwiki.com/index.php/Display_FAQ#240p.2F480i_Emulation_on_a_CRT_Monitor

>> No.1843345

>>1843283
There's a guide on the emulation general wiki for doing this:

http://emulation.gametechwiki.com/index.php/Display_FAQ#240p.2F480i_Emulation_on_a_CRT_Monitor

I use RetroArch for doing this since it has great video output capabilities and has lots of different emulator cores available.
The shader presets I use for the blur and interlacing scanlines are these:

https://github.com/libretro/common-shaders/tree/master/cgp/tvout%2Binterlacing

The top one is the regular "RGB" version, the rest use the NTSC shaders to simulate composite and svideo output.

I recommend using a monitor that can increase the brightness without ruining blacks. Diamondtron's SuperBright mode is an example, or you might max out the color intensity for a similar effect on other monitors.

Done right, this can make your PC CRT into an excellent emulation display.

>> No.1843354

>>1843315
>No need for these to have a great looking picture. Pic related, your average shadow mask RGB monitor. It looks pretty damn good imo.
Those aren't exactly easy to come by unless you're in Europe. He is right on PC CRTs being more common, in the US at the very least.

>> No.1843361

>>1836934
I have the PVM-2030, it's special or something? I've just using it with composite 'cause I haven't bought that cmptr to scart cable.

>> No.1843373

>>1843332
>>1843345
Thanks, guys. That's pretty informative.

>> No.1843376 [DELETED] 
File: 5 KB, 320x352, 1404822524093.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1843376

>>1839887
>I have never seen a TV until I was 16

W-what? how? Did you lived on an African tribe and got adopted by Angelina Jolie or something?

>> No.1843390

>>1843315
Sounds like you don't like it because it's "too high quality" or something. I've seen pics of PVMs and they look the same (or worse than) as that Diamondtron pic to me, so I guess I don't have the eye to distinguish "natural" from "unnatural" I guess.

>> No.1843397

>>1843390
To be fair, even a PVM isn't as sharp as something like a Diamondtron. Only a BVM (what was used for these shots >>1841178) rivals PC monitors.

>> No.1843467

>>1843345
Okay, so this might be a dumb question, but which lines in the retroarch .cfg are the resolution?

current_resolution_id = "0"
custom_viewport_width = "960"
custom_viewport_height = "720"

Do I put my width/height on the viewport lines, or do I just type the whole thing into resolution_id? Also, I have no "windowed_fullscreen" line in my .cfg.

>> No.1843486
File: 3.37 MB, 4128x3096, IMG_20140807_165342.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1843486

How about some real, "natural" 31KHz scanlines now?

>> No.1843491
File: 3.96 MB, 4128x3096, IMG_20140807_163607.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1843491

>>1843486

>> No.1843510

>>1843467
video_fullscreen_x
video_fullscreen_y

Those are what you need to set to your desired fullscreen resolution. video_windowed_fullscreen must be false for it to use exclusive fullscreen.

If they aren't already in the config, then add them in. The config options are documented here: https://github.com/libretro/RetroArch/blob/master/retroarch.cfg

Also, be sure to set video_aspect_ratio to x resolution divided by y resolution (for 3840x480, it will be 8.0) to make it stretch to the full width of the resolution.

>> No.1843519
File: 3.95 MB, 4128x3096, IMG_20140807_171111.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1843519

Here's a true 640x480 game.

>> No.1843556
File: 316 KB, 960x1440, da-15 vga.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1843556

Hey /vr/, I don't know if you guys remember me but I was in here for a couple of threads trying to get my old Macintosh monitor to work on my PC. It still doesnt and I havent made any progress but I found something out that surprised me.

I noticed early on that one of the vga pins on the DA-15 to VGA adapters was missing and figured that could be the problem if nothing else, but I didnt find any other I could buy online. Well it turns out DA-15 is often mistakenly referred to as DB-15 so searching for the latter turned up some more results. But here's what I'm getting at - pic related is the same converter, and IT HAS THE SAME PIN MISSING. So it seems the one I have isn't broken.

I have already given up on trying to get this thing working, but I guess I'm desperately holding out on the microscopic possibility that I may be able to make it function until I get a hold of another CRT monitor

>> No.1843645

>>1843510
Ah, thanks. Those lines weren't in my .cfg; had to add them.

>> No.1843773

>>1843361
Not especially, I just really want one due to form factor.

>> No.1843785
File: 2.10 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140807_190154.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1843785

Raw 480p with line doubled output

>> No.1843791
File: 2.08 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140807_185803.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1843791

Now with some horizontal blur

>> No.1843796
File: 1.73 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140807_190439.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1843796

And now "240p" with some horizontal blur and monitor color intensity maxed.

>> No.1843840

when I played my japanese copy of actraiser on my "modded" us console back in the early 90s, my dream setup for that console was a top of the line, large computer monitor and a specialty cable to hook it up

the entire reason why I, and every other serious graphics fan at that time wanted the compuer monitor is so that I could play games like actraiser, GWED, street fighter, area 88, etc without all of the shitty, barbaric artifacts, bluriness distortions introduced by hooking it up to a television

I'm aware that this subject has been discussed a lot, and "blur zealots" are about as relaxed and easy to convince as a new vegas fan or a dark souls fan

But the actual truth, which is impossible for you to change by thinking about it differently, is that higher fidelity was always the goal, has always been the goal, and will always be the goal. It takes a special kind of dementia to believe that developers wanted their sprites slurred around like finger paint, when every single one of them was bending over backwards to get higher resolutions and more colors on the screen.

Anyway, enjoy your...whatever. I consider filter users unreachable.

>> No.1843865

>>1843840
>It takes a special kind of dementia to believe that developers wanted their sprites slurred around like finger paint,
You are a retard. Developers work with what's available to players. It doesn't make sense to make graphics that look like shit on a TV.

>> No.1843882

>>1843840
Just posting to say I agree with you 100%, before some janitor deletes your post.

>> No.1843883

>>1843840
>autism, the post

lel

>> No.1843908

>>1843840
The only zealot here is you, if you think you're oh so "high and mighty" for wanting sharp graphics and that anyone who thinks otherwise is beneath you.

Fuck off with that elitist BS.

>> No.1843946

>>1843840
Developer intention is only a small part of it. A lot of people think low-res games look better on low-res CRTs, so that's how they enjoy them. I know my Genesis looks better on my GVM-2020 than on my HD LCD, so that's what I use.

There's no wrong way to enjoy classic games, except for stretching the aspect ratio. Behead those who make Samus fat.

>> No.1844075

>>1843265
>Not to mention PC CRTs are much more common than high quality 15khz pro monitors and can give you similar quality
TV's with RGB or Component are even easier to find, and are often much larger.

>> No.1844102
File: 3.15 MB, 4128x2322, 52b56569-9170-4983-aef5-091ad8ed7.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1844102

What kind of cord do I need for this. I've tried every AC cord i could find. 6 to be exact. Am I missing something here? This is driving me nuts.

>> No.1844132

>>1844075
I'm the dude with the DiamondTron. I also have a 27" Sony WEGA, and I still think the DiamondTron with scanlines looks better. IMO retro games don't look all that hot on such big displays, but that's just me.

>> No.1844471

Has anyone done manual adjustments on 'lower end' (FV and FS) FD trinitrons?

It seems like the main adjustable parts are two screws on the flyback transformer ("G2" and focus), some adjustment screws on the top of the tube near the neck, and a bunch of sliders around the neck of the tube.

My 32FV16 has a bit of a fucked up corner and I can't find out how to fix it (landing/convergence) with the sliders. I did, however, try messing with the stuff on the flyback transformer and found a few things. First, is that you can get much darker blacks if you drop G2 down, although my status light blinks telling me it's set wrong (I imagine the voltage is too low, it's supposed to be set with a multimeter). I also found that you can adjust the focus to get a much, much sharper picture, but it also makes the interlacing more visible.

TL;DR manual FD trinitron adjustment discussion.

>> No.1844483
File: 2.28 MB, 3000x2250, IMG_6082.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1844483

Also here's some 'fake scanlines'. 32FV16 480i and fast shutter speed. That said, you can see the interlacing with the focus set like it is.

>> No.1844515

>>1844102
What's the model number? What country do you live in?

>> No.1844781

>>1844102
BNC Sync cable.

>> No.1844905

>>1844515
usa. panasonic. bt-s1900n.

>> No.1844906

Got a Sony KV-21FQ10E for peanuts at a pawn shop and it plays retro consoles with RGB like a charm. Seems to accept RGB signal on both SCART connectors too so it's not like I could do better on my tight budget.

>> No.1844908

>>1843556
It looks to me that that is the 5V line on VGA. I don't know enough about hardware to tell you what problems you'd get without it. All the 'signalling' pins seem like they're there, though (RGB and Horizontal and Vertical Sync as well).

>> No.1844914

>>1844102
I thought the point of modular power cords was that you could manufacture the same TV parts in one country and use a swappable country-specific power cord. Why can't they just use a standard PC power cord input?

>> No.1844916

>>1844914
>Why can't they just use a standard PC power cord input?
Because that would make too much sense.

>> No.1844945

>>1844908
Yeah the site I'm at describes the pin as "Key (No pin) / Optional +5V output from graphics card". I don't think that is what's causing the problem.

I found this post in a forum however which I thought was pretty interesting
>The mac refresh rate is different fomr what a PC or PC-standard VGA device will output. Until the advent of "multisync" displays all the mac monitors supported Apple's refresh rates exclusively. By the mid to late 90's Apple did away with that because it was getting obvious that 60hz+ refresh rates were the preferred standard and the vendors were gatting annoyed programming the weird rates Apple was using.

Some other posters are saying the horizontal refresh rate is very crucial and so far I've just used default and custom refresh rate settings with nVidia control panel, I think PowerStrip allows you to set horizontal and vertical rates separately so I might try that, I just hope I don't break the monitor since it's Trinitron. But then again getting another good monitor won't be too hard hopefully.

>> No.1844968
File: 92 KB, 497x732, 1402969948916.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1844968

>>1844945
installed PowerStrip again.
>go to Display profiles
>LCD, Advanced timing options available
>CRT
>Advanced timing options button greyed and not usable
FUCK
WHY

>> No.1845728

Gonna work on a CRT pastebin later. Here's what I've got in mind after thinking about it for a few seconds:

>Wut CRT is gud?
>>Wut CRT is gud for wut consoles
>Buying CRTs
>>Things to check for, general prices
>Adjusting CRTs
>>Manual and service mode
>Places to research CRTs
>>Lots of links

>Possibly a "can't lift a CRT, other solutions" section. Image scalers and the like

Any other ideas? I'll probably get a preliminary write up done tonight and run it by you guys so we can get it ready for the next thread.

>> No.1845768

>>1845728
for the upscaler section you should just >>> to fudoh's page.

http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/

>> No.1845774

>>1845768

Yeah that's what I was planning. Shit's 2expensive4me yo.

>> No.1845782

>>1845774

lenkeng is where it's at mane. Relatively new upscalers with amazing quality for like <$50 . check out this vid of genesis through one. insane quality for the price

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q19gbUuen_s

throw an slg3000 in there for your crt feels

>> No.1845791

>>1845782
I might leave this section out lest I buy one for my XBR910.

Stop it.

>> No.1845828

Guys what's a fair price for a Sony pvm2130QM?

>> No.1845837

>>1845828
I suppose that's a bit vague, a guy on ebay has 4 for £250 each, but it seems a bit much.

>> No.1845839

>>1845782
I knew PAL was slower but I had no idea it was that bad. No wonder Britbongs all had Commodore 64s.

>> No.1846178

>>1845828
I got mine for €30.
But to be fair, the guy didn't know what he was selling.

>> No.1846342
File: 2.79 MB, 3096x4128, 20140808_224829.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1846342

Fuck me, 80% of my diy arcade is finished, but now I'm struggling with vga-to-scart.
I think I'm gonna buy that fucking VGA Arcade 5000 GPU... should work, right ?

>> No.1846423

>>1845728
Maybe a link to retrorgb, this guy knows his shit

>> No.1846480

>>1845728
>Any other ideas?
Learn correct English.

>> No.1846507

>>1846342
Yeah, it should work perfectly.
It's also only like $70-$80, isn't it?

>> No.1846521

>>1846507
Yeah, I think it's the best option right now.
I made this >>1836541
but my GPU can't outup anything decent anyway so it's useless.
Could anyone confirm that an Arcade 5000 and a simple vga->scart cable from amazon will get me a decent display ?
I know it's an european system but I figure if I can output 15kHz 480i a simple cable should do it...

>> No.1846525

>>1846423
Was gonna say this

Retrorgb was a really useful resource for me when I was learning about retro systems and video quality.

>> No.1846812

>>1845728
Just know that infopics and pastebins have been created before, and they aren't linked in these threads for good reason. I don't have any of them handy, but if you trace your way back through the archive enough months, you'll find them. (The old ones might be harder to find since the really old threads didn't link to previous threads.)

>Wut CRT is gud?
If you're going to go into brand/model retardation, I'd vote against that wholeheartedly.

There are far too many excellent models manufactured throughout the decades by so many manufacturers around the world that it would be stupid to put a list together that even pretended to come close to being comprehensive or useful for the board. I also don't want to contribute to creating top-heavy demand among noobs who look at simple lists without learning jack shit and immediately go hunting for the same stuff everyone else is. Better to educate than spoonfeed.

>>1845768
fudoh = good

He obviously has the money to test lots of equipment.

>>1846423
>>1846525
retrorgb = meh

He has no better info than most people here can provide and I disagree with some of his methods, conclusions, and advice/recommendations. He's just collected a lot of it together in one place.

>> No.1846940
File: 1000 KB, 400x300, 90&#039;s.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1846940

Is there such thing as a CRT that can display SNES, Genesis, N64, PS1/2, Dreamcast ,GCN and Wii at their native displays on their best connectors (s-video, Component, etc)?

The last time I owned a CRT I was in high school and it was some junkie one

>> No.1846943

>>1846940

Any Euro TV with SCART.

>> No.1846956

>>1846943
dumb question from an Amerifat, but wouldn't that mean they would be 50Hz?

>> No.1846963

>>1846956

They accept 60Hz in RGB, but in S-Video/Composite, it's true that you need to find an NTSC and PAL-60 compliant one, so a high-end TV.

>> No.1846976

When I'm playing an American import on my PAL Psone, sometimes I'll get this ripple effect when I'm moving the camera around fast in game or moving to a new area. Is this something to do with the refresh rate? It's a trinitron

>> No.1846983
File: 50 KB, 767x288, SONY_PVM1353MD_MONITOR_6.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1846983

>>1846940
My PVM-20M2MDU, PVM-14M2MDU, and PVM-1353MD will all handle anything those consoles can throw out except for VGA from the Dreamcast. I just need the right adapters, RCA to BNC connectors for composite and component, SCART to BNC for RGB, and they already have 4 pin mini-DIN ports for s-video. Checking the back of just about any Sony PVM makes it easy to tell what inputs they have.

>> No.1846991

>>1846480
No.

>>1846940
>Another potentially great gif/webm ruined by tumblr

>>1846812
>If you're going to go into brand/model retardation, I'd vote against that wholeheartedly.

I think it's nice to have at least general details of specific models mentioned. Nowadays the condition of the set makes more a difference then the exact model does. I've only got trinitron info in there right now as that's what I'm familiar with, but I'm more than happy to add stuff from other manufactures.

Here's what I've got so far. I'll add the adjustment info tomorrow and fuck around with my 20" in the process.

http://pastebin.com/qudM0c3e

>> No.1847009

so for NTSC consoles, what are the methods for playing in RGB? Or does /vr/ just PAL consoles? I will admit I never cared/knew anything about image quality back in the CRT days

>> No.1847016
File: 214 KB, 800x600, RGB_Capable.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1847016

>>1847009

Just get a PAL SCART cable and see if you need some modifications on it to output RGB correctly. The consoles mentioned on pic related output RGB natively whatever the location is (the French PC Engine excepted).

>> No.1847020 [DELETED] 

>>1846991
>mere sentences into that pastebin
OMG please save your time and stop now.

>> No.1847025

>>1847020
No.

>> No.1847029

>>1846991
>that pastebin
Just a suggestion, but I think a good old linkdump would serve the thread best.

I understand the appeal in stamping your own opinions on something and calling it a /g/uide or whatever, but let's leave the vast library of things that have already been written open to exploration.

Spoonfeeding really is bad, and spoonfeeding only one person's opinion doesn't help the board learn and discover new things as a collective.

>> No.1847041

>>1847029
I think there is some information that isn't much out there at the moment, particularly in adjustments. I'd agree that if it was just 'this CRT is gud' it'd be useless, but I think it'd be nice to have a depository of adjustment stuff and general model info.

Right now it's just my shit in there, but I'm hoping other people want to add stuff. There would be a lot of holes if I was the only one adding stuff to it.

>> No.1847042

>>1847041
question, I noticed you categorized 6th gen as 480p, but aren't the vast majority of 6th gen games 480i?

>> No.1847043

>>1847041
Well maybe some nice useful links will come out of all that research anyway. I'd be happy to see that.

>> No.1847050

>>1847042
Good point. Probably need to split that.

>>1847043
Well some links are questionable. Take this for instance:

http://gametz.com/FAQ/picking-good-crt-tv-old-school-game-systems--462367.html

While it does have some nice info on models, I'd disagree about calling a single model out for being a "this is the best go get it" for retro gaming. It also makes a reference to native resolution, which CRTs don't really have.

There's probably a few good links related to adjustments, but I reckon there is stuff to add on top of that.

>> No.1847065

>>1847042
Off-topic, but I really don't like the "generational" nomenclature everyone's adopted for talking about video game history. I never use it, and yet somehow I can discuss game history with other people just fine.

>>1847050
>Well some links are questionable.
Obviously, questionable links would have no place in a useful linkdump.

Actually you know what that link demonstrates to me? It's a poorly assembled guide, the likes of which I really want to avoid making a part of these threads.

Anyway, I'm still interested in seeing what kind of links you can gather as you write your guide.

>> No.1847102

>>1847065
I really appreciate your effort into making this, one thing I think would be a good section would be a connector/port/cable section, for how to get the best picture. It's been a long time since some of these ports have been relevant, so many people have forgotten and gotten accustomed to "just works" HDMI cable being used for video and sound at highest resolution and whatnot. Additionally, people are now used to a standard, unified "HDTV" standard, unlike the fragmented and often misleading names and standards of the recent past. I am willing to bet most people here played consoles like SNES or Genesis as a kid on shitty composite, so some may not have ever really known much about standards outside of what their TV set offered.

>> No.1847312

I have a question to more knowledgeable people here about CRT's as I have one old monitor in the basement that I considered kinda "dead".

It seems to have problem with the grayscale as anything other than lightgray appears as pitch black, rendering any kind image with darker sections unwatchable.

Is it dying tube, or faulty electronics?

I remember overclocking it to ~120hz even though 85hz is supposedly the maximum, so I might have helped pushing it in the grave a bit.

>> No.1847551

>>1847312
If the tube is dark you could see if there is an adjustment on the flyback transformer to increase the voltage a bit. Might work, might not. Be careful though, there's a lot of voltage moving around back there and if you aren't careful you can mess up the tube by turning it up too much. My FV16 has been blinking at me ever since I accidentally turned it up too much and the TV shut off.

But if that doesn't work I'd chalk it up to a worn tube.

>>1847102
I think I can copypaste a section about inputs, I've remembered reading some good articles about that (possibly on retroRGB?) and it shouldn't be too much work.

>>1847065
I don't expect to see any of this part of the OP without a lot of revisions and approval of the posters here. It might be a while, but I'd like this to be a useful guide rather than some hodgepodge of bits, some useful and some not.


Do you guys think it would work better if the TV models section is separated by model rather than by use? This would make it easier to add more stuff later, and there could be a consolidated list arranged by input resolution along with it.

I think I'll try that and see how it looks.

>> No.1847556

>>1846976

Just bumping this question, since nobody answered at the time. Hope someone can help.

>> No.1847564

Passed on a 20" Trinitron today at a garage sale for $15.
Damn thing was beautiful. Absolutely beautiful. But I already have 2 14" PVMs and 1 14" BVM. No way I could bring home another. It was hard to walk away.

>> No.1847584

>>1847564
I'd say 15$ is a bit much for a 20" consumer set, actually. At least where I am the things are so common that you could probably talk them down to 10 or less.

And no use for something that small when you've got multiple PVM/BVMs. What models do you have?

>> No.1847618

>>1847584
I probably could have gotten it for almost nothing if I kept trying. She probably just wants someone to take it off her hands.
I have a BVM-14G5U, PVM-1353MD, and a PVM-14M2U that I took into a shop to get the yoke re-adjusted after it was most likely dropped in shipping.

>> No.1848041

>>1847584
I've been having an annoyingly difficult time finding a 20" Trinitron lately. It seems the tv on craigslist are 32"+ and the owners are giving them away provided that you haul the behemoth out on your own. I would pay $20 at this point.

Any Seattle are bros wanna hook another bro up?

>> No.1848086

>>1848041
Why do you want a 20" specifically? If you just want something smaller, I'd try and hunt down a PVM/BVM.

But if you insist,

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ele/4596479073.html

Also I tried organizing the TVs section by make/model and I think it works better this way. Thoughts?

http://pastebin.com/qudM0c3e

>> No.1848132

>>1843081
>>1840743
Well, guess we're opening this thing up, now that it's been unplugged for a few days. I know to look for corroded/bulging/split capacitors and blackened areas on the PCB. Is there anything else I should be looking out for?

>> No.1848192

Got a Dell UltraScan P991 monitor. It worked perfectly when I tested it out where I got it, but now I've got it home and it won't stay on unless I hold the power button down. Help?

>> No.1848254

>>1846178
Bargain, how do you like it?

>> No.1848465

>>1848132
Model number? Brand at least?

If it's a sony you should have a blinking red light on the front. If there is no blinking light then it's a standby failure.

>> No.1848519

>>1846342
Get Ultimate Scart Adapter, done.

>> No.1848529

>>1846940
Ps2, Dc, Gcn, and Wii all put out 480i or 480p depending on your display. So a 480p monitor is best for them unless you love flickery blurry shit. Just use a pc crt.

>> No.1848540

>>1848529
on second though I suppose only the DC has a vga output, sorry. If you must have crt you could use a sd to vga scaler

>> No.1848552

>>1848540
on third though, fick it, just deal w the flicker.

>> No.1848562

>>1848540
on third though, fuck it, just deal w the flicker.

>> No.1848746

>>1848529
When using 480i is the picture going to jitter no matter what? I only noticed this with my ps2 then I realized it was interlaced.

>> No.1848813

>>1848746
The interlacing in itself jitters, but depending on what the screen is displaying it can be not as bad.

>> No.1848816

>>1848746
Component/rgb on those consoles will look nice on a good lcd and be progressive. I prefer it over an interlace image on crt, the only other option is a multisync studio monitor that can do 15khz and 31khz, they can be expensive and hard to find, just keep everthing ps2 and up on an hd set and everthing before on crt.

>> No.1849128
File: 14 KB, 250x348, wn000084.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1849128

What do you guys think of this CRT? Got it for 30 bucks it's a Sony Trinitron KV-32HS500.

>> No.1849135

>>1849128
Good for 480p but I don't think it'll display 240p correctly without a scalar box.

Mite do the 4:3 720p equivalent.

>> No.1850409
File: 632 KB, 1600x1200, DSCF4097.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1850409

sup /vr/. Just picked up this Radio shack Portavision today. 5 inch color monitor made in 1998. Screen is a little scratched up, but it happens. Will post some game pictures.

>> No.1850413
File: 630 KB, 1600x1200, DSCF4101.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1850413

>>1850409
Here's the title screen of Melee. Sorry for bad picture, flash makes the screen go white.

>> No.1850417
File: 637 KB, 1600x1200, DSCF4106.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1850417

>>1850413
It's also got all these dials on the side.

>> No.1851030

>>1849128
It's not SD. It will look like shit with old video games.

>> No.1851372

>>1851030
Not true, it looks amazing with old games.
It's not exclusively an HD.

>> No.1851376

>>1850413
Can you post a pic of it running something old, like a NES?

>> No.1851391

So, what, do you guys actually go out to buy CRTs?
Because I have like 5 or 6 in my house since we never "upgraded" to HD. Fuck HD tvs anyway, with output lag and prone to burning.
I play GC and PS3 alike on CRTs.

>> No.1851678
File: 628 KB, 1600x1200, DSCF4111.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1851678

>>1851376
How about some Genesis? NES is on the fritz, so gonna work on it, see if I can't make it work.

>> No.1851694
File: 629 KB, 1600x1200, DSCF4115.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1851694

>>1851678
Here's an in game screen shot. Sorry for shit camera. For some reason, I think the picture is blurry on the TV. Would there be any way to increase its sharpness?

>> No.1851818

>>1848086
>http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ele/4596479073.html

Different anon here, but oh man, what a coincidence. I tried to get this TV back in like March or April, but the listing disappeared.

Filled the void with a 27" Trinitron with wonderful geometry and convergence issues that I didn't see until after dragging it home. At least it was free as well.

>> No.1851839

>>1851678
>>1851694
thank you

>> No.1851906

>>1851391
I've bought a few, also had a couple of 20 inch PVMs but didn't like those because they were too sharp, too much scanline and not very arcade like. Consumer tv screens look closer to arcade monitors.

>> No.1851943

>>1851906
>too much scanline and not very arcade like
That's because pretty much anything you'd find in an arcade machine would have been a shadow mask CRT, not an aperture grille.

>> No.1851954

>>1847009
Be more specific. Are you playing on a ntsc tv as well? If so, just use svideo, unless you want to rgb mod your consoles then use an rgb to component transcoder, or buy a pvm for a marginally better picture.

>> No.1851973

>>1851943
Agreed, but even the aperture grill of Sony consumer sets is way rougher than PVMs.

With the PVMs it was like someone drew black lines across the screen, it was distracting.

>> No.1851982

>>1851954
Marginally better than svideo I meant.

>> No.1852021

So I have a CRT that's probably ~10 years old. It's 1080i but "HD ready" and apparently needs a separate tuner to get HD signal.

Would there be any problems using this for older games? I don't understand HD ready and the separate tuner thing, but would getting one make (SD) vidya crisper or is that only for getting cable signals? I assume not but I wanted to check.

>> No.1852030
File: 842 KB, 2048x1536, DSC00876.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1852030

Just got my VGA->Scart to work.
Also set up Powerstrip profiles in this format:
CRT OS/50hz, CRT OS/60hz, CRT US/50hz, CRT US/60hz

OS and US stands for Overscaning and Underscaning.

This 25hz line flicker is fucking awesome.

>> No.1852050

>>1852021
HD ready means the display can resolve an HD image without downscaling, but like you said, it lacks an HD tuner. Treat them like HDTVs, not SDTVs. By that I mean they're excellent for TV and movies whether SD or HD, plus HD games. Just not SD games.

>> No.1852056

>>1852050
So it'd be better to play SD games on a 480i CRT rather than this 1080i one? I thought CRTs handle scaling well.

>> No.1852128

>>1852056
CRTs do handle scaling well, but scaling is far from ideal in the first place due to lag and artifacts. So yeah, SD games are best played on a native SDTV or SD monitor, which is what almost everyone in these threads is after.

>> No.1852157

>>1852128
appreciate the info. I'll also test on both my 480i and 1080i to see the difference myself.

>> No.1852176

>>1852056
>I thought CRTs handle scaling well.
You're thinking of multiscan monitors.

Most CRT televisions have a single fixed scan mode; HD CRTs commonly have 2 (31KHz for 480p and 33KHz for 1080i, for example). Digital upscaling was considered desirable for regular live-action video, so they just designed the sets to be native ED/HD-only and handled SD signals by upscaling them.

PC monitors and professional video monitors, on the other hand, are typically multiscan and can natively synchronize with a variety of video rates. PC monitors are usually 30KHz+ only though, so it's quite difficult to find a monitor that will do native 15KHz and 31KHz display. "Tri-sync" arcade monitors are your best bet for this.

>> No.1852189

>>1852030
Cute mouse pointer

>> No.1852254

>>1852157
Play some OOT or really any N54/PS/Saturn game on a nice big HDTV. I'll give you 10 minutes max before you run screaming and shivering for your SDTV.

>> No.1852287

>>1852176
>You're thinking of multiscan monitors.
Given your explanation, which I agree with, probably better to say:

>You're thinking of regular non-interactive video.
Because CRTs really do handle image scaling well, particularly using interlaced modes, just not for SD games. Lo-res TV and video really does look better on a CRT HDTV than an SDTV, especially as screen size increases.

>> No.1852463

How would I go about connecting an SNES to a SONY TRINITRON PVM-8040?

>> No.1852471

>>1852463
Just a normal s-video cable for the system, or if you wanted composite for some reason, a normal composite cable and a cheap RCA to BNC adapter.

>> No.1852478
File: 175 KB, 741x847, $_57.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1852478

>>1852471
>SONY TRINITRON PVM-8040
So the S-video cable plugs into that "Y/C in" socket?

>> No.1852480

>>1852478
That is correct.

>> No.1852482

>>1852480
Thanks for the help.

>> No.1852546
File: 93 KB, 816x624, 101_0898.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1852546

>>1844102
>>1844905
>>1844914
>>1844916
Hey, Anon with the Panasonic BT-S1900n monitor! I did some digging and the power cord for your monitor was a proprietary one made by Panasonic, and it's part number is TSX1157. It's still available for order, and this site had the cheapest price:
http://www.encompassparts.com/item/1175297/Panasonic/TSX1157/Cord_Wplug

Here's a shitty shot of one in an ebay listing.

What a goofy fucken company! I'm lucky my CT1382y has a hard-wired power plug.

>> No.1853150

>>1836934
>tfw no PVM-2030
Perhaps I can interest you in a 2130?

>> No.1854069

>display resolution thread on /v/
>gets me in the mood to see if there are any neat CRTs that I can't afford on craigslist
>HPA7217A for $250 <20 miles from me
>lament being poor and scroll down the page
>about to close tab
>triple take just as I'm about to click the button
>XC-3730C
>much closer than the HP
>FREE STUFF
I swear to god, if this thing isn't taken, I''ll strap the thing to my back and carry it home that way. I'm fucking shaking waiting for a response to the e-mail.

>> No.1854087

Picked up my PVM with purity errors from the shop today. Almost flipped my shit when I noticed a green corner still. Then I forgot that I took out a magnet and never put it back inside. Put it back and now the corner is clean again. Only can see the slightest of green tints when the screen is bright white and I look very closely. Thought eh its okay all my other monitors have some minor issues when the right scenario arises and I look really hard. I'll just deal with this the same way I dealt with those. Then I put SMB in. Damn some parts of the sky have a slight red tint. I'm not gonna worry SMB is the only game that makes all my monitors look bad.

>> No.1854135

Um and now it seems my PVM has V hold issues. It was just working 5 minutes ago

>> No.1854137

>>1854069
>condition: fair
I hope it's ok. Be sure to post a follow-up!

>> No.1854140

>>1854135
Uhm disregard. I changed the H Frequency a bit then set it back and everything is fine again.
Should I not use H Frequency when centering the image?
I don't know the difference between H Freq and Video Phase.
I'm just confused why this H Freq setting worked then stopped working

>> No.1854156

>>1854137
I planned to.
Unless it's in deplorable and condition, I'll get it. I'm just hoping someone hasn't snatched it up already.

I find it amusing that the picture used was from the neo-geo CRT Fetish Thread.

>> No.1854194

>>1854156
>deplorable and condition
and unsalvageable condition*

>> No.1854225
File: 457 KB, 500x500, 1405884530082.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1854225

>a video production company is closing near me
>selling all their stuff on friday
>see piles of large PVMs in the pictures

The time has come

>> No.1854274

>>1854156
I'm wondering what "fair" means in this case, coming from someone who knows what he has. I've been burned and pleasantly surprised enough times.

>> No.1854412

>>1854274
I'm wondering the same myself, but even if it's filthy, a working CRT is a working CRT.

I'm just hoping the casing isn't cracked, or filled completely with tar. The smell of tobacco makes me sick. That alone has kept me from working on a PC my brother-in-law was getting rid of; Even plugging it in will fill an entire floor with the stench.

>> No.1854658

>Still available
Well, at least this day hasn't gone completely to shit.

>> No.1855009

>>1854225
Where you at, nig? We gonna shopping spree

>> No.1855021

Does anyone in the Seattle area want a semi-broken Profeel Pro? It's beyond my capacity to repair and I can't figure out what it is. It has a JP21 SCART-style input and the standard other PVM inputs.

>> No.1855194

>>1855021
What is it doing/not doing?

>> No.1855230

>>1855194
It has a shutdown problem. I took it somewhere to get fixed and before I did, it didn't turn on all of the time, usually it took like 5-30 tries to get it to turn on. Now it turns on everytime but shuts off from 10-3mins later.

>> No.1855348
File: 1.76 MB, 2448x3264, pic1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1855348

dope screens, y'all! got 7 myself in various sizes, i use them for lofi visual art (and, of course, gaming).

>> No.1855554
File: 25 KB, 618x400, Godzilla_Cranston_Scream_featured-618x400.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1855554

>tfw found a guy selling a PVM for $25 on craigslist, but he won't pick up his phone or return my call.

>>1854225
>video production company
how do you find these?

>> No.1856191

How difficult would it be to transcode 480p component video to VGA level RGB?

There's a lot of talk about RGB to Component in 240p, but not much the other way around.

>> No.1856237

>>1856191
It would be pretty much the same without scaling.
YPbPr converted to RGB by opamps and H/V sync extracted from Y.

>> No.1856356

>>1856191
why would you need to? What source has a component output but not rgb at 480p?

>> No.1856391

>>1856356
Just trying to get an idea of my options if I am to get the XC3730 mentioned above.
Might want to hook up a 6th gen console up to it. Which means, unless I'm sticking only to the DC, component video at 480p.

>> No.1856421

>>1856356
>What source has a component output but not rgb at 480p?
European DVD players, DVB receivers which feature SCART and progressive component outputs but no VGA.

>> No.1856542

>>1856539
>>1856539
>>1856539
>>1856539

NEW THREAD

>>1856539
>>1856539
>>1856539
>>1856539

>> No.1856551

>>1856191
The math involved is the same thing in reverse.

Color space transcoding between RGB and YPbPr is lossless; you can go through the process multiple times back and forth and the only loss would come from physical line length signal degradation due to the equipment and connectors, not from the transcoding process itself.

>> No.1858227

bye