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/vr/ - Retro Games


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File: 101 KB, 684x629, Gtw_mario.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1641351 No.1641351[DELETED]  [Reply] [Original]

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

Got questions about repairs, mods, or other technical details? Bring 'em here.

If your console has trouble reading games or self-resets, you may just need to clean it. Check out the game an console cleaning guide first before asking questions here:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

GTW needs more repair and mod info! If you're working on a project, consider adding what you learn (or links to guides you use) on the wiki.

>> No.1641356

Not sure if this is you guys' department, but how difficult is it to add an LED backlight to a Game Boy Pocket or Game Boy Color?

I see these in games shops and they become way more expensive for it. I could probably make a living buying Game Boys from eBay and adding backlights to them.

Then again, I don't have very much electronics experience. Mostly just playing with breadboards.

>> No.1641606
File: 80 KB, 304x358, 1398995672077.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1641606

Okay, I've been tearing my hair out over this. Just bought a boxed copy of Wiz 5 for my SFC, cleaned the SHIT out of it and the console (credit card trick, you name it) Wiz 5 looks shiny as SHIT. Turn on, black screen, over and over again. Tried other games, SMT 1 and SMT 2 worked fine after a bit of finangling. Only thing I haven't tried is fucking with the pins. This copy of Wiz 5 is like near mint so I have no earthly clue what's going on. pls assist

>> No.1641882

Is there any way to fix broken lasers other than replacing them?

>> No.1641937

>>1641882
You can try adjusting the pot on each one but that requires an oscilloscope to be accurate.

If you don't have one then it's a crap shot to get it working.

try turning the pot a hair at a time. They're extremely sensitive

>> No.1641941

>>1641606

If the SFC is anything like the SNES model 1, it might have a removable cartage slot in some models. You can pop them off and clean under them.

I know the one with the separate sound chip has a removable slot, and so do some of the on board sound chips SNESs.

>> No.1641960

>>1641356
From my understanding it isn't too hard. There is some risk installing a back light for a Game Boy/Pocket.

You have to peal the old LED covering from the back of the old screen. That's easily the step that can fuck up. That, and getting dust under the screen too.

Other then that, its just attaching the LED to a pre determined power point

So far the Game boy Color can't be back lighted.

>> No.1642185

>>1641937
What's a pot?

>> No.1642207

>>1642185
A potentiometer

Think of it as a small screw that controls how much power the laser receives. Over turning it will cause a complete failure of the laser and you'd need to get a new one

>> No.1642216

>>1642185
potentiometer, or variable resistor

>> No.1642223

>>1642207
>>1642216
Okay, thanks. I'll try this out later.

>> No.1644231

bump

>> No.1646671

>>1641606

Toothbrush and alcohol to the slot.

>> No.1647325
File: 963 KB, 700x750, master system display.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1647325

So I bought a Master System on the cheap, didn't come with any cables. I bought some cheap third party power and video cables, but the Master System doesn't seem to work. All I get is pic related - blueish lines slowly scrolling up, whether a game is in or not. I checked the power cable and it's the same voltage as required, but I'm not ruling it out completely since something similar happened to my SNES which worked properly after I got a new power cord. Still, I'd like to know what others think. Could it be something internally?

Apologies for the phone pic.

>> No.1647326

>>1647325
Same polarity and amp rating, as well?

>> No.1647328

>>1647325
It might require a good cleaning or the games might be dirty.

And as you said, it might be the power.

Most likely is a dirty cartage slot if it isn't the power.

Open up the flap and look at the slot under a light. I find that when a system isn't working when I get it in, that it's due to something being jammed in the slot. Usually a piece of paper to help with continuity.

Pro tip, a Genesis model 1 AC works for a Master System

>> No.1647341

>>1647326
So says the label, though I don't have a multimeter or anything like that to tell for sure.

>>1647328
Cartridge slot looked surprisingly clean, gave it a quick scrubbing just to be sure. Unfortunately I don't have a Model 1 AC adapter, but I do have a Sega CD Model 2 AC adapter - are those similar, or am I wrong?

>> No.1647346

>>1647341
They're completely different so don't go and plug it in

Also, don't use a NES power supply either.

>> No.1647348

>>1647346
You sure about that anon? I was doing some Googling and it seems like they're the same. I'm talking about a Sega CD model 2, not a Genesis model 2.

>> No.1647352

>>1647348
Oh, wait, yes

The Sega CD model 2 does take the same AC as a Genesis model 1 and a Sega Master System

>> No.1647360
File: 929 KB, 700x736, Out Run.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1647360

>>1647352
I plugged in the power supply and everything went good; got pic related and was playing some Out Run for a few minutes.

Suddenly the Master System turned off, and now the LED won't even turn on. I don't think this is the fault of the power supply; I think there might have a been a very brief power surge, since I noticed my lamp blinked off and on.

Am I fucked?

>> No.1647368

>>1647360
Huh, never mind, just tried it on a different wall outlet and it's working fine.

Fuck now I'm paranoid.

>> No.1647369

>>1647368
You had better be using surge protectors. Either way, you probably need to move to a place with an electrical system not wired up in the thirties.

>> No.1647376

>>1647369
It happens more often than I'd like but I make do. My other consoles are currently hooked up to surge protectors, luckily. I'll be hooking the Master System up with them as well.

Thanks for the help everyone.

>> No.1648363

>>1647325

I've had a similar issue with my Genesis and a 3rd party AC adapter.

>> No.1649269

>>1647360
>>1647368
>>1647376

If it just blew and didn't work after, I was going to say it was going to be the 7805 voltage regulator.

Good to see it working. Never trust third party power cables. General rule, the heaver the AC adapter, the better it is.

>> No.1650076
File: 36 KB, 800x600, justifierps1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1650076

I have a Konami Justifier for the PS1, but I don't use it. Could this be modified into a light gun for the Sega Mega Drive/Genesis so I could play the Lethal Enforcers games?

>> No.1651912
File: 237 KB, 1072x804, P5280109.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1651912

>>1641351
instead of making a new thread though i would ask here what is wrong with my megadrive 2 it keeps displaying colours weirdly

>> No.1651915
File: 242 KB, 1072x804, P5280110.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1651915

>>1651912
Some more pictures for reference

>> No.1651920
File: 273 KB, 1072x804, P5280112.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1651920

>>1651915
seems to turn on fine and the cartridges play fine on my clone system

>> No.1652773

>>1651920

It might be s problem with your video encoder, so check the traces for signs of corrosion around that chip on the top left of the circuit board, as well as its solder joints. It may require a reflowing of the solder joints, or a trace fix. If it is a bad chip then it can be replaced (haven't tried that myself but I saw Shane McRetro do this successfully on youtube.) You should also check the solder joints under the cartridge slot and see if those need reflowing.

Other possibilities - a cable issue.

If you can take a picture of the circuit board for us then that would be helpful.

>> No.1652809
File: 86 KB, 475x467, Genesis_pal_model2_VA1.8.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1652809

>>1652773

This is the chip you want to look at. You can try pressing gently on it during gameplay - if colours change in any way, it needs fixing.

>> No.1654212
File: 14 KB, 500x300, MD2_32X_NOMAD.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1654212

>>1651920
>>1651915
>>1651912
>>1652809

If the Sega Gensis model 2 is anything like the SNES, there might be some sort of adjustment you can make. I know on one SNES I had, the color was slightly off. All I had to do was turn a trimmer on the board and it adjusted the color.

Here though it seems like one of the RGB colors isn't getting displayed. Most likely blue.

Like >>1652773 said it might be the cable. You might want to check continuity on the blue pin here

I assume you're hooking it up via SCART because you said mega drive. I'd check the SCART cable too to make sure the blue pin is also giving good continuity

>> No.1654214

>>1654212
Also, don't have the system or anything plugged into power when you do this.

Other wise you risk frying the system and you.

>> No.1655687

Going to try and learn soldering in order to change the capacitors of my old Game Gear.

When buying a soldering iron, what wattage is the best for the job? The ones avaliable for me to buy are 25, 40 and 70w

>> No.1655767

>>1655687
25 should do it, since you'll be working with small electronics. Don't want to burn out the traces.

>> No.1655872

What to do if PSX CD drive does nothing? Not even try to read or move at all?

>> No.1656028

>>1655872
You could try taking it apart. I don't recommend it though

>> No.1656419

>>1656028
I took it apart and I ended up ripping out one of the surface-mounted connectors for the cables that power the disk assembly ;_;.
Now my only hope for this console is that psio ships one day.

>> No.1656718

>>1655767
Thanks man.

>> No.1656784

No luck in the CRT thread so I'll try here.

Got a problem with my PVM. Since I've had it it's been a dream until a couple of days ago when I hooked up my newly modded PAL SNES via RGB. In 60hz the image is slightly shaky but in 50 it's stable as anything. Weird part is that now my Wii has followed suit despite being connected via component and being unmodded (besides the homebrew channel). I have no idea what could be wrong. The Wii was fine before this and is also steady in 50hz upon testing. Halp?

>> No.1657235

So my SNES just started making a buzzing noise which comes out of the speakers. And I just wanted to know if this can be narrowed down to what's causing it?
I've tried 2 speaker setups and 3 AV cables as well as cleaning the AV port on the console so my assumption is it's something inside the console.
Any help would be appreciated. I can't play games with that annoying noise right on the edge of my hearing.

>> No.1657307

>>1641351
Just asking , do you mind discussing atari console mods and repair??

>> No.1657589 [DELETED] 

>>1657307
Does Atari make consoles?

>> No.1657592

>>1657307
Does Atari make retro consoles?

>> No.1657606

Anyone know how I would reset a KV Sony Triniton CRT to factory settings? The picture seems lopsided at the bottom and I want to see if that works before I attempt to degauss.

>> No.1660496

bump

>> No.1660809

I have 3 sega genesis model 2's, all of which are faulty.

1) get a black screen no matter what game i put in
2) See the licensed by sega screen then nothing
3) every game is in black and white

I am using the correct power supply, Have clean all the games and am using decent AV cables.

Anyone know what the problems could be?

>> No.1660814

>>1657606
Look up the service manual for your model then try to enter service mode.

The manual should tell you how to reset to defaults

>> No.1660830

>>1657606
>KV Sony Triniton CRT to factory settings
You won't want to do that. Each set was individually calibrated before leaving the factory, so a "factory reset" will in all likelihood do more harm than good.

>> No.1660865

>>1660809

I suggest opening them up and looking for broken traces around the custom chip in the middle, and the video encoder chip top left. Other problem areas are near where the reset and power buttons are, where fluids can leak in if somebody has spilled something. There are no tri-wing screws so getting to the board is easy.

In my experience model 2s are still holding up well. Perhaps you are in a very humid environment which has rotted a few solder joints? In this case they would just need reflowing.

>> No.1660890

>>1660809

1) also sounds like an issue with the power socket on the board, a fairly common problem of wear and tear gradually loosening it off the board. If that is the problem then it can simply be resoldered.

>> No.1661553

Need to know what type of battery the Dream Cast used for the C-MOS.

I know it's rechargeable, but I don't know what model number.

I know its a Sanyo

>> No.1661804

>>1661553
ML2020

>> No.1662426
File: 69 KB, 400x358, zelda1361733091118.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1662426

You seem to know a lot guys, maybe you can help me with a little question...

It is possible to mod a pal n64 to run ntsc games ?

If so, where can i find some info?

>> No.1662471
File: 42 KB, 488x519, doomcoffe.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1662471

Maybe the question i'm about to ask don't belong here, but this system has been discussed here on vr plenty of times, so I'll take the shoot.

I have a JXD s7300, I bought it like 2 months ago, but I'm having a problem....

All works good, but some day, I decided to take it to me to the university, in my bag. I was very carrefully, I swear! But since then, it's like the power button its pressin itself, because the power menu of the android device keeps popping out for nothing! I take it to an electronic guy here on my city, he did some stuff on it, but it didn't fixed it.

I have my suspicions, maybe is the heat, maybe somethig loose up, or maybe is a malware (this last one is discarted, because I formated it 3 times and nothing happened)

Why do you guys think it is?

If you need photos or something I'll deliver as soon as possible

>> No.1662529

>>1662426
>It is possible to mod a pal n64 to run ntsc games ?
Replace the PAL PIF chip with a NTSC PIF chip which you can only get from a NTSC console.
Then you can only play NTSC games on it.
http://forums.modretro.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=11521

A import adapter would be easier to handle, especially these with 2 slots.
You would put your NTSC game and a PAL game with the right CIC in and then you don't need to worry about compatibility problems.
The framerate will be 60hz and color encoding will be PAL, also known as PAL60.
You have to make sure that your TV can handle it.

>> No.1662535

>>1662529
Thank you anon :)

>> No.1664931

bump

>> No.1665231
File: 318 KB, 427x319, Gameblue.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1665231

>>1641356
GBC's can be frontlit, but not backlit.

Pic related is a regular DMG I modded ages ago with a blue backlight, and a few other things.

>> No.1665690

>>1657606

Lopsided at the bottom?

What you need is this:

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?248996-Sony-WEGA-Trinitron-CRT-TV-service-menu-Tips-Tricks-and-settings-suggestions

You probably have the same issue I'm having with my KD model. Which is just picture settings. If you've ever messed with the puncushion/geometry settings on an old PC CRT monitor, then that's what you'll probably need to do here.

>> No.1666741

>>1662426
You would be better off buying a NTSC-J console from japan and cutting the plastic tabs so you can play US games. Not sure but I believe they can also be modded for RGB but don't quote me on that.

>> No.1666823

Is it possible to run N64 games from a SuFam AV cable through SCART on a CRT? I
made the set up but nothing shows up on any of the 6 channels in default, AV or SVHS mode. I tried using the antenna cable too but that didn't work either, I'm guessing I've just got it on the wrong channel setting but it's bugging me.

Also my SuFam is acting weird, it plays evert game I have except Yoshi's Island which uses extra parts of the socket. I'm guessing those parts are just dusty because the unit was in really rough shape (I posted it in an earlier /vr/ thread) and the game itself is practically in mint condition. That said, I can't find any of the cleaning alcohol's that are suggested and scrubbing it with a dry brush didn't work

>> No.1667139

Do the chinese wholesellers' PS1 laser assemblies work?

>> No.1667784

>>1667139
>chinese
No

>> No.1667815

>>1667784
Do you know where else to buy the laser assembly for the PS1 SCPH-1001?

>> No.1667894

>>1667815
He's just being an idiot. Try one. I don't have any dead PSX systems, so I haven't bothered. I have a Goldstar 3DO with a dead laser, and I bought a replacement, but I have no motivation to replace it.

>> No.1667918

>>1667139
Yes, i have replaced the laser in my PSone and SCPH-1002.

>> No.1667948

I want to get into mod/repair, but I have never done it nor have any fucking idea how shit works.

Are there any easy repairs or mods I could possibly do as a beginner? To get some practice and to learn about how consoles and games work. When I say I'm a beginner, I mean I don't know anything about mods or repairs.

Much appreciated.

>> No.1667976

I didn't see this general so I foolishly made my own thread for this problem. Sorry /vr/.
My Paper Mario cart only functions properly when I push the top of it toward the back of the console. What do?
I already cleaned it and everything.

>> No.1668283

>>1661804
Hmm... the 2020 seems to have 45mAh while the other batteries I get when searching has at least 100mAh

Would the 2020 provide enough to keep the C-MOS up?

>> No.1668284

>>1667976
You need to most likely clean the slot. Most N64 slots can be removed, all be it carefully. Then you can scrub under the slot and try and clean any dust that may have collected

>> No.1668293

>>1667948
Get a NES and take it apart.

They're very easy to take apart and are a good place to start.

I think everyone starts with a NES

>> No.1668295

>>1668283
I never put any research into it. All I know is that's the model of the battery that I pulled out of my dreamcast. It works fine without it, so I didn't see a point in getting a replacement.

>> No.1668301

>>1668295
Well, it's kinda necessary when you want to sale a dream cast.

>> No.1668308

Well, I'm not sure what else I need to say. It was the original battery in my dreamcast that worked fine until its failure. I'm not interested in selling mine, so I'm not sure why that was relevant.

It's on the desk in front of me, so I'm not remembering it wrong, either.

>> No.1668313

>>1668308
Well, alright then

I suppose it couldn't hurt to give it a try

I wonder how fast a rechargeable battery is suppose to discharge.

The original battery went from 2.3V to 1.5V over night when it was unplugged.

>> No.1668325

>>1668313
Well as far as I know the only purpose of the battery is to keep the time and date. I never timed how long it took to discharge, but near the end it wasn't more than a day or two.

>> No.1668335

>>1668325
Sounds like what mine is doing

>> No.1668337

>>1667948
you should learn a bit about soldering, the basics about things like voltage and current, and about common parts (fuses, resistors, capacitors, diodes, and regulators, and probably a few that are slipping my mind). get a multimeter if you don't have one
one of my first projects involved testing and replacing the fuses in a couple of super nintendo's, which i think was a good beginner's exercise

i think it's critical that you learn the basics so as you advance you won't find yourself puzzled over trivial problems and so you'll understand the way each mod works and what can go wrong

>> No.1668424

>>1668293
Just...take it apart and put it together again? Sounds good. I'm assuming there are guides online for that?


>>1668337
Ah okay. I'll research some more into those terms and such. As for soldering, would changing the battery of a GCB Pokemon game be good practice? I remember that you need to solder the battery in.

>> No.1668492

>>1668424
replacing a battery is probably not the best place to start, unless maybe you got one of those batteries with the metal tabs already attached. soldering irons generate a lot of heat, and batteries are sensitive that. in my case, the worst that could realistically happen is that i blow the fuse, which is harmless. in your case, the battery could explode, especially if you take your time
apparently, one anon on here replaced the battery in a cart of his only to have it explode minutes later, but it could have gone off in his face while he was working on it

by the way, if you use flux when you solder--which is generally a good idea--keep in mind that some flux is conductive. if you use conductive flux, make sure you thoroughly clean off any remaining flux when you're done soldering

>> No.1670995

bump

>> No.1672352

>>1668492
Thanks for the advise but I'd use a battery with tabs and I have some liquid flux that comes off easily with some 90% alcohol

>> No.1672479

>>1672352
Still though, try to avoid having the battery get too hot. Those things hurt when they explode.

>> No.1672492

>>1672479
Yeah, I am aware. I've gotten battery acid on me before.

Why I got a clip-able heat sync

>> No.1672595

Anyone know how to fix AC adapters?

I have 3 sega mega drive 1 adapters that don't work, I have tested them with a multi meter and they don't read any voltage.

I tried moving the cables around to find any broken wires but it didnt help so it must be inside the actual transformer itself.

>> No.1672652

>>1672595
All 3 behave the same way? The problem is most likely the joint on the connector end, even though moving around the wire didn't seem to work. Since you have 3, I would suggest cutting the cord on one, stripping the wires, and using the multimeter again. If it works, you should be able to find a working connector on another type of power supply (it's very common) you can cut off and attach to the Mega Drives AC adapter.

>> No.1674206
File: 1.87 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1674206

Anything I can do to get rid of that white streak? Doesn't really make a difference but it's been buggin me

>> No.1674423

>>1674206
Hoppes No. 9 or some other non-abrasive solvent? Dip a q-tip, and see if any can be taken off. If it seems permanent, it may be a stress mark in the plastic or something. Dunno. My N64s are full of cigarette burns.

>> No.1676180

Bump

>> No.1678047
File: 44 KB, 397x298, pocket-48.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1678047

So as it turns out, a Raspberry Pi fits inside a game boy pocket.
Looks pretty goddamn awesome and in the end, would perhaps be a better investment than an everdrive.
The only problem I can think of is a) gay interface and b) no accelerometer for tilt n tumble

full guide here http://www.xodustech.com/projects/raspberry-pi-gameboy-pocket

>> No.1678050

>>1678047

Can it be over/underclocked?
I would like to know for musical purposes.

>> No.1679285

>>1678047
Cool but it doesn't fill the entire screen

>> No.1681290

bumpin'

>> No.1681296

>>1678050
Yes, just by editing a file named config.text in the root of a fat partition.

>> No.1681320

>>1678047
Ugh, can you fags please stop destroying antique game systems so you can stuff PCs into them?
Just buy a fucking PSP if you want to emulate on the go.

>> No.1681334

>>1681320
I know it's a shock to you, but there are scenarios where it's not possible to save a system. Using its shell to perform a similar task is the next best thing, unless you're an advocate of gameboy wallets or some other stupid shit.

>> No.1681361

>>1681334
1. It's extremely rare that 100% of the components were broken, so a broken system can be used for spare parts or repaired with spare parts from another. Even if all the electronics were busted, the case could be a good donor for a system with a damaged case but perfect electronics.

2. The vast majority of these faggots aren't using broken systems, they rip apart perfectly working systems just so they can have their retro gimmick jewelry or whatever.

>> No.1681378

>>1681361
If there's irreparable mainboard damage, you're better off stripping the other parts out to use in a different system, not finding a working mainboard.

Also going back to that first post, you can hardly call these things antique. It makes you sound like those SORARE ebay sellers that put mario/duckhunt carts up for $200.

>> No.1681392

>>1681378
>It makes you sound like those SORARE ebay sellers that put mario/duckhunt carts up for $200.
To flip that around, even the people ripping up shitty old sports games to make repros piss me off. Maybe in the past it was somewhat acceptable, but now when every system has a flashcart with extremely high compatability they could be using instead, it's just senseless waste of historical artifacts.

>> No.1681416

>>1681392
Because thousands and thousands of copies of Madden 93 are totally worth saving amirite?

>> No.1681418

>>1681416
Just wait until they're more rare than earthbound

>> No.1681497

>>1681418
This is why i buy every sports game I find that is cheap.

>> No.1683441

I know this is going to come back to "Clean your NES" but I got a few games in a batch of NES games that seem to work only when you power on the system then hit the reset button.

I've checked and cleaned the games to a nice shine and I've cleaned my NES with an official NES cleaning kit.

Is it normal for some games to not work until you reset the console?

>> No.1683503

>>1683441
Front loader or top loader?

The other day I watched a long-ass video about repairing top loaders (actually it was about AV modding them, but the guy goes through his entire cleaning procedure and points out numerous problem points he's experienced over like a decade of professionally repairing and modding consoles). He pointed out a faulty capacitor in the reset circuit as being the common cause of what sounds exactly like your problem.

If you have a front loader, I'd assume they have the same problem with a similar capacitor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eig-VDCWfoo

>> No.1683506

>>1683503
Front loader

>> No.1683514

>>1683506
>>1683503
That might be the problem but it was 3 out of 25 games that didn't want to pop right on

>> No.1683536

>>1683514
>>1683506
>>1683503
>>1683441
And when I put in the game it just shows a solid color usually gray

>> No.1683746

>>1683506
>>1683514
>>1683536
Well, I'm not an expert, but you could try opening up your NES and looking for the part of the board with a button on it near the reset button. If you see a capacitor near it that looks busted/smells funny, you know that's the problem. Beyond that, you'd need a cheap multimeter to measure the capacitance of the capacitor and see if it is significantly lower than what it should be (you will have to look up the part number).

>> No.1683751

>>1683746
Yeah, I plan on opening it up. And I have a Fluke meter so I'll know if it's off.

It's just weird that 3 out of 25 games would exhibit this behavior.

The games where in rough condition, so maybe that has something to do with it

>> No.1683764
File: 826 KB, 287x262, 1385908920604.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1683764

>>1681361
>The vast majority of these faggots aren't using broken systems, they rip apart perfectly working systems just so they can have their retro gimmick jewelry or whatever.
Sorry Anon, but that is bullshit. The people who make hundreds of those "retro wallets" and shit like that use old sports games, mario & duckhunt carts, or systems that are completely fucking fried beyond saving.

They use damaged shit because it's cheaper to buy up than working shit. A friend of mine buys old fucked up NES controllers that are covered in shit with exposed wires, water damage, etc, and makes them into wallets. He sells them on dA, and eBay for insanely stupid prices, but hey, his attitude is "if someone will pay that, I will sell it for that."

>> No.1683845
File: 26 KB, 450x337, model_an-500b_small.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1683845

I've been to Japan lately and got myself a sharp twin famicom (pic is not mine, but it's the same model). I tested it while in Japan and worked just fine. Now I'm back home but I don't know how to set it up properly, any suggestions? I live in Europe, btw.
Thanks.

>> No.1683857

>>1683845
>NTSC console in PAL region

You didn't do any research did you?

>> No.1683882

>>1683845
Stepdown converter for power. We mostly work on 230V, so you'll want one that can go from that to 100v, which is what Japan uses. Stepping down to just 110v will work just as well, and those converters are slightly more common - although the system might run a little warmer.

As for video, I'm pretty sure it just has composite RCA. You'll want to try plugging it in first (through the converter, of course). What will likely happen is you'll get a 60Hz image, but in black and white. This is because NTSC uses a different colour space. You'll need to convert that colour carrier to PAL's, making a PAL60 signal. I've never had to do this, since all my things use RGB SCART. However I do know that hardware converters exist (I don't know if they work), and that some AV players/recorders are capable of acting as a pass-through, allowing you to feed them the NTSC composite signal, while they output in RGB SCART.

There may be some other ways. I'm sure some people here will be able to go through them.

>> No.1684187

I haven't been on this board for a while. Did that guy with the Vectrex get it fixed eventually?

>> No.1684241

>>1684187
I haven't seem him post in forever. I don't think so.

>> No.1685128

>>1683751
>>1683746
>>1683536

Well I opened up my NES and cleaned it without any results. The games Still give me a gray screen after powering them on for a second time and I have to hit reset for them to work.

Powering the console off and then waiting for about 30 seconds seems to reset it so I can power it on again without having to hit reset.

I also get the same effect if I power it off, unplug the console and then discharge the console.

I think it might be the reset circuit but I have no idea where that is on a model 1 NES.

>> No.1685159

>>1685128
Also, they worked on my top loader first try. No hassle

It might be some sort of very weird CIC issue.

Although I haven't encountered a CIC issue like this before in all the NES's I've fixed. Usually, the games work or they don't. No middle ground like this.

>> No.1685747
File: 2.42 MB, 2592x1936, WP_20140612_007.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1685747

My av famicom is black and white on my crt but is fine on my LCD tv. What could be wrong?

>> No.1685753

I'll ask here since when I google the issue there doesn't seem to be a fix.

My N64 seems to be having overheating issues when playing games, while I can leave a game idle for hours and it'll be fine, if I try to play a game it'll start resetting itself near constantly. I was wondering if any anons might know if there's something I can do other than buy a new N64.

>> No.1685787

>>1685747
Is your CRT 50hz only? If so your fucked.

>> No.1685864

>>1685787
No It auto detect NTSC and PAL then switches to the correct one, the famicom was working fine the last time i used it.

>> No.1685881

>>1685864
If it's working on a different TV, it's not the console's issue.

>> No.1686467

Learning about modding games.
What's harder to mod? Atari, Nes, Snes, Genesis?

Also can I create an easy editor for a game I like rather than trying to modify game mechanics, add levels in a slow trial&error way.
Is there another way other than hex coding?

>> No.1686503

>>1686467

NES is harder to mod than SNES, and Genesis.

I don't know about Atari.

>> No.1686850
File: 85 KB, 686x381, 1401335241402.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1686850

>>1681320
>>1681361

Can't speak for other countries but here in Japan I can go to a local store and come back with a handful of Game Boy Pockets for under $4 apiece. There are so many of the things in circulation I don't think a few hardware hackers/modders are any particular threat to the supply. They aren't some kind of historical artifact or treasure of modern anthropology, and certainly not something to get so butthurt over.

>> No.1687252

>>1685159
Try cutting out pin 4 on the Control Deck's internal 10NES lockout chip - it's supposed to disable it completely.
>>1686850
This kokujin here is a lucky motherfucker. Here I am, jonesing to go into a Super Potato at least once in my life and buy one of those surprise game bags and he can just go ahead and do it.

>> No.1687334

How difficult is the SNES RGB mod?

The amplifier chip, PCB and components have already arrived, and the rest of the tools (soldering iron kit, desolder braid, hookup wire, etc.) should be coming tomorrow.

>> No.1687349

>>1687252
Yeah, I just switched the board out with a spare and it works now.

I really don't want to go and cut the CIC chip unless there's a good reason too. I think that it might be the on board capacitor in the reset circuit.

Problem is, I have no idea where the reset circuit is on the model 1 NES.

I know some one linked a video with the guy talking about the top loader and the reset circuit on that one.

Also, the games that where giving me problems, the capacitors where WAY out of line. Well out of the normal 20% tolerance.

Thing that tosses a monkey wrench into this though is I also had a problem with a game that didn't contain a capacitor (Golf).

Anyone have any idea what might be going on?

>> No.1687438

>>1687349
I think this might help you a bit to figure out the reset circuit on the NES
http://133fsb.wordpress.com/2009/09/05/gb-style-reset-for-nes/

Also this guy tells you you don't actaully have to snip it, you can just pry it a bit away and it'll work anyway: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Auc7Ms4xv10

>> No.1687446

>>1687438
Yeah, I'm aware of how to disable the CIC chip.

And I searched for the reset circuit and I got that page but I haven't traced it back from the CIC chip

>> No.1687914

>>1687252
I was just at Super Potato last weekend, actually. I live in Gifu prefecture but spent the weekend in Tokyo. I thought most stuff there was waaay overpriced but I came back with a select handful of Famicom games. Out here in the relative boonies I got a Famicom complete in box for 5000 yen which would have run me at least twice that in Akiba. It's common to find Famicom games at secondhand shops for 50-100 yen and the most I've ever paid was like 1300 yen for Cocoron because I reeeaaallly wanted it.

It's a good life.

>> No.1687932

>>1674206
Mr clean magic eraser. Dampen it, then scrub a little

>> No.1687934

>>1687914
Fuck yeah. I'll be moving to Osaka soon myself.

>> No.1688145

>>1687349
>I really don't want to go and cut the CIC chip unless there's a good reason too.
There is a alternate method of disabling the chip.
Just solder 2 wires and you're done:
http://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php?t=10091

>> No.1688159
File: 4 KB, 200x149, t_photo_139[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1688159

So I just bought a cheap Game Gear with the black lines problem on a whim, wondering how reliable the heating up the contacts method is for removing this problem or if there is a more reliable fix, seemed like an easy surefire fix but now I kind of have my doubts

>> No.1688470

i have two N64, it doesn't display any game, the rca cables are ok and power cord works too

how i can fix?

>> No.1688481

>>1688470
Have you tried to clean both games and slots?

>> No.1688494

>>1688481
how i can clean exactly the slots? i did clean games.

>> No.1688506
File: 27 KB, 400x254, Midify-DS-Lite-Screw-Locations.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1688506

Not exactly retro, but certainly fucking Nintendo related.

How am I supposed to unscrew my NDS tri-wing screws without the right screwdriver?
>inb4 I can't.

>> No.1688516

>>1688506
A smaller flat head works well if you're careful.

>> No.1688518

>>1688516
I've tried using precision slots but these screws are two damn tiny and it slips too much or doesn't budge at all.

>> No.1688523

>>1688506
if you don't have one you're going to strip the fuck out of those screws with anything else, take it from someone who needed to replace all the screws on a wii.

>> No.1688524

>>1688518
just buy tri-wing screwdriver, they arent that expensive.

>> No.1688526

>>1688523
I guess I am force into submission to Nintendo.

>> No.1688527

>>1688518
>>1688523
I've been using a regular flat head for several Wiis, DS lites, and two 3DS.

It worked well enough with no stripping of the screws or the bits.

>> No.1689164

>>1688481
i cleaned both N64 slot, and they doesn't display, i'm at loss, help me?

>> No.1689328

>>1688145
Very interesting

With this method one could simply add a switch into the mix if you wanted to.

Thanks for the information

>> No.1689338
File: 1.85 MB, 3900x1780, Sega-Genesis-Mod2-Set.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1689338

I got a Sega Genesis model 2 VA1 that turns on but I get nothing when I turn it on.

I've cleaned the games, cleaned the slot, looked for any cracked solder joints and I've tested the reset switch to see if it's stuck.
I've also tried different cords and hook ups and nothing helped.

The board is in perfect condition yet I still get nothing when I turn it on. What could it be?

I am thinking it might be a capacitor that has gone bad or the voltage regulator. Is it possible to get the LED power light but have a busted cap later along the line that prevents it from working?

>> No.1689485

>>1689338
Also, I got a weird hum when I put in Sonic. I wasn't able to replicate it at all though

>> No.1689494

I repaired a SEGA CD 2 that was missing the little spindle/tab piece you put the disc on, and now the component (think it's called a magnet clamp) on the inside of the roof that drops down is getting in the way. A guide I read a while back told me to remove the part, but I have no idea how to go about that, so I've been taping the clamp up for now. It works, but after a while, the tape starts to give way, making it droop down a little which fucks reading the disc, even if it doesn't touch anything below. I might just say "fuck it" and cut it off, but I'm a bit worried that I'll damage it in the process. Any ideas?

>> No.1689652

>>1641351
I'm having serious issue with my snes. It will now show the color red. It instead shows grey or black. I have tried with multiple tv's, games and power / av cables. I don't really know what to do anymore. All my other systems work fine and display all colors well. Any idea how to fix this ? Should I just get a new Snes ?

>> No.1689656

>>1689652
Also there is a rainbow type image going through middle of screen in darker scenes.

>> No.1689664

>>1689652
NOT show red*, sorry about the mistype

>> No.1689667

>>1689652
Bump, anyone qualified to help around here ?

>> No.1689692

>>1689667
i had a similar problem, which turned out to be an issue with a potentiometer. open your snes and there should be something that looks kind of like a stripped screw. i think it's between the cartridge slot and the controller port, a bit to the left if you're viewing the system from the front. adjust it slightly (like 1/16 a rotation) and check the quality of the image

also don't bump so quickly; /vr/ is pretty slow

>> No.1690042
File: 38 KB, 640x480, HNI_0049.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1690042

I just got a snes online with official power supply and av cords and a couple games. Prior to inserting the games I cleaned them with isopropyl and cotton tips and cleaned the game slot with isopropyl and the credit card method. When I inserted the games and powered it on I got a black screen with thick white bars slowly moving across it (as in picture). These bars stayed there and didn't move when i reset the system fiddled with the cartridge and showed up if i powered on with a cartridge inside or not.

I have very little experience with snes's as opposed to other consoles so I was wondering if it is a "just clean more" problem or it is indicative of something else.

Thanks for any feedback.

>> No.1690096

I've got a PAL SNES that almost never turns on. I've had this problem in the beginning of the 2000s, but now it's a lot worse.
I turn it on, the light is on, there's some interference on the screen, but nothing else. After turning it on/off about 100 times (yeah, I know) there's a chance that it will actually launch the game and you'll be able to play. I once got to the Yellow Switch Palace in SMW, but then the console turned off again.
Cleaning with alcohol doesn't help.
Anything I could do? Or it's just better to buy a new one?

>> No.1690112

>>1690096
What kind of power supply do you use?

>Anything I could do? Or it's just better to buy a new one?
If you don't know how to solder and don't want to get a 4.5mm gamebit then you better buy a new one.

>> No.1690115

Hey /vr/

My Super Famicom won't play games that use all the connector pins on the bottom of the carts (e.g. Yoshi's Island) for some reason. I tried cleaning it out with Q-tips and a credit card and there doesn't seem to be any remaining dust. I can't find the alcohol that /vr/ always recommends for this kind of thing (in the UK atm) so I'm kinda stuck.

What do?

PS: It plays normal games (e.g. F-zero) just fine, although occasionally it doesn't load them.

>> No.1690127
File: 1.53 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1690127

>>1690112
I can't solder, but I have a guy that can. Taking the console apart is not needed, it's already taken apart

>> No.1690131

>>1690127
This one is too weak.
Get a better one or maybe the original one.

>> No.1690139
File: 845 KB, 979x1306, sdfg.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1690139

>>1690112
>>1690127
Shit, man, sorry. Here's a resize

>> No.1690642

>>1690115

Update: It works if you push the cart firmly towards the rear of the unit when you first turn the machine on. My Super Game Boy doesn't work for some reason though

>> No.1690685

How'd you deal with broken screws? I bought an NES and I can't open it to fix the blinking light because of a goddamn broken screw.

Same for a Genesis and SNES pads.

>> No.1690971

>>1690127
>>1690139

8v, 850ma? Get a power supply that outputs 10v and at least 1000ma.

>> No.1690984

>>1690685
There are special drill bits for removing screws that are stripped or chipped at the head.
http://homerepair.about.com/video/How-to-Remove-a-Broken-Screw-With-a-Screw-Extractor.htm
Someone you know might have a set lying around.

>> No.1691116

>>1690984
A normal drill bit works as well, if you're careful and the bit is sharp.

>> No.1691119

>>1690642
If pushing back on the cart works, then the cart slot is likely still dirty.
Try looking for surgical spirits. I've heard they're similar enough for this kind of thing.

>> No.1691131

>>1689485
>>1689338
Anyone have any idea what this may be?

>> No.1691139

>>1690042
When you cleaned it, did you pull any pins out? I know you can do that if you're not careful when doing the credit card method.

A full disassemble and cleaning would probably be the best. You can then clean the slot, bend the pins back slightly to their original position, and clean the connection to the main board

>>1690096
Does the screen give a flicker when you turn it on? I know some SNESs can be opened and the cartage slot removed from the main board. Then you can clean under the slot with a tooth brush and 90% alcohol

>> No.1691552

>>1689338
Try a different power adapter.

>> No.1691557

>>1691552
Yeah, thing is, that AC adapter works on another Model 2 just fine.

>> No.1691568

>>1691557
So test the parts with a multimeter.

>> No.1691575

>>1691568
What parts?

>> No.1691581

>>1691575
You should check the voltage regulator (s) to make sure they output 5V. Input should be 8V-10V depending on the adapter

>> No.1691810

>>1691581
Alright. I'll check that later

And what part should I move to after that? I'm thinking Capacitors

>> No.1692016

>>1691810
Capacitors next.

>> No.1692084

>>1691139
It does give some interference, I cleaned it thoroughly though
Turns out, the capacitors are fucked.

>> No.1692969
File: 685 KB, 2048x1536, 07062014546.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1692969

how can i make this n64 like new

>> No.1692979

>>1692969
Fire.

>> No.1693002

>>1692969
You probably can't really. You could try painting it but if you're not decent at painting it will probably come out badly. Also the door for the RAM doesn't match which will probably never be corrected.

>> No.1693012

>>1692969
I'd do something cool like a Carbon Fiber wrap like they do on cars sometimes. That'd actually be a pretty sick N64 skin.... maybe ill look into it

>> No.1693043

I have a ton of old computer games that don't work on my win7. What's the best way to get them to work?

>> No.1693058
File: 15 KB, 800x651, BH2032.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1693058

Question:
If I'm looking to replace the batteries in my old SNES carts, google says I can either solder them in or wrap the contacts together with electrical tape.

If I'm leaning towards the former, is there any reason not to remove the battery as per normal and solder a PCB-mounted battery holder instead? Something like this.

>> No.1693067

>>1693058
You can put in a battery holder if you like it really doesn't matter. Gameboy games are a little too small though so you can't get away with that there. Works fine in basically every home console cartridge though.

>> No.1693081

>>1693067
Cheers.
This way I figure it'd be less likely something will explode in my face when attaching the new battery, and it means that in 20 years time when they need replacing again I can easily swap them out.

I thought clearance might be an issue, but no that's good news.
Thank you.

>> No.1693091

>>1693043
Old dos games will run in dosbox no problem. For old windows games they'll likely refuse to run without some version of windows under them so dosbox alone probably isn't enough. You can apparently run windows 95 in dosbox which *might* be enough to get them working.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1hvgFvAYjPG93h-Avun3sprvZX2GfkRhl4YJBT15FTx0/edit?pli=1#!

If all else fails you can use a vm running windows xp to get them running.

>> No.1693094

>>1692969
you can try sandpaper, but it looks like you'll really have to smooth the console out to get rid of all those marks. start with 400 or 600 grit and work your way up until you're satisfied with the texture
you should also probably take it apart first if you can

>> No.1693392

>>1689494

Took care of it myself by pulling on the side pieces of the magnet clamp that stick out.

>> No.1694510

I want to learn about electronics, I also want a gameboy color. Buying a broken gbc for $10 and learning to fix it a good idea for a beginner?

>> No.1694551
File: 405 KB, 653x766, 1400862594993.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1694551

>>1641606
Okay I sent my sfc to the guy I bought it from and he said it was the carts. So I bought a new
Wiz cart and cleaned it up, looked inside. Same thing happens. I have a Supercom as well and trying to load a Wizardry ROM also produces a black screen. This is a mystery for the ages.

>> No.1695259

Alright lads, I'm attempting to run backups / burned disks on a 4501 PS1. I have access to FFVII, FFVIII, Gex 3, Motocross, and Metal Gear Solid. I'm loading it with the old spring + game enhancer trick, which does get it to boot. The catch is, it loads very slowly initially and a few textures / audio playbacks come out garbled. For my tests, I've tried FFVIII's disk 1 and the motocross disk; FFVIII runs it and motocross will now. It feel like I've read somewhere that using a booting disc with more audio tracks will help with the audio problem, but as far as I know it's a rumor. I'm using Verbatim media, but it's been working fine for my Dreamcast's backups. Is there anything else I can do to improve the playback quality? Hearing Symphony of the Night with garbled music is just a travesty, and I need to know if I should just take the plunge and buy the original media to get satisfactory results.

>> No.1695441

>>1695259
Try burning at the slowest speed

>> No.1695494

>>1695441
No dice, I think it has something to do with it being redbook format for the audio?

>> No.1695501

>>1695494
I'd try a different brand of CD then. Some systems are picky

>> No.1697523

bump

>> No.1697651
File: 60 KB, 264x267, 1382347373174.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1697651

Holy shit I just had the worst time with my front loader NES

Basically any game with the MMC3 memory chip was glitching the fuck out when I touched it. Normal games like Mario Bros / Duck Hunt worked when I wiggled them

I adjusted the pins a few times with no luck. I took some caned air and puffed it the slot and a big fuzz ball came out the back. It seems to work alright now.

TL;DR MMC3 games like Mario 3, check to see if there's something shorting the pins.

>> No.1697687
File: 38 KB, 320x193, msx.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1697687

Ah, lets try here. I already made a thread but this will probably be better

I just recently picked up a full, 4-slot MVS Neo Geo Machine off of a guy froms Craigslist for about 400 bucks.
Its got a couple issues but nothing too serious, the only 'big' thing is that the 3rd slot is a little wonky a lot of the time and wont load the video properly, but I'm not too concerned about that.

He gave me a few games with it like Shock Troopers 2, Aero Fighters 2, & World Warriors.

He also included a copy of Metal Slug X, however he said it has some issues, and I verified this.

Whenever you try to load it up, you get the message posted in my picture. He said he tested this car on a couple of other boards and it seems to load fine on there, so I'm not sure what the issue could be.
I doubt I have a bootleg 4-slot MVS board, that doesn't really seem right.

Does anybody have an idea on what it could be? I searched around on some of the Neo-Geo forums and couldn't find a solid answer

>> No.1697704

>>1697687
Sounds like you need to open it up and check

If you can open the games too, those could use cleaning and verification

>> No.1700210

>>1697651
Also, another update. I had to switch the pin connector. The one I had in there seemed to have some tarnishing and corrosion on the last 3 pins.

That plus a good cleaning seemed to fix it for now

>> No.1700316

>>1692016
>>1691810
>>1691581

Well, I checked the voltage regulator and its giving 11~ VDC in and about 4.9~ VDC out

Guess its onto the caps then

>> No.1700485
File: 953 KB, 330x300, 1378266593262.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1700485

>Order gamebit screwdriver set from lukiegames so I can set to work on modding my SNES
>Parcel finally arrives
>They didn't come with a driver/handle; just a set of two 3.8 and 4.5mm bits
>They're non-magentic and lack latching pins so they just fall straight out of my generic swappable-bit screwdrivers
God damn it.
I'd heard bad things about lukiegames but I didn't expect them to be this shit. Parcel took nearly 2 months to arrive as well.

At least the bits work though.
I niggerigged them by ripping out the inserts from two generic biro pens, heated the tips over the stove, jammed the gamebits into the softened plastic, twisted to tighten and made a makeshift handle by wrapping the shaft with electrical tape. Works fine, but clearly far from ideal.

>> No.1700498

Where is a good place to purchase older micros like the Spectrum, PET, ][, early IBM Compatibles and so on? People are practically giving major consoles away compared to how difficult it is to find television home computers.

>> No.1700524

>>1700498
http://www.classiccomputershop.eu

Little on the high side but they have a pretty nice collection. Also S&H will probably bankrupt you if you're not on the continent (if they ship at all).

>> No.1700537
File: 28 KB, 556x121, oyvey.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1700537

>>1700524
>A little

Bullshit, you can buy one of these at a flea market for twopence

>> No.1700543

>>1700537
Nah, AN Apple ][ maybe, but that's a rare model if you scroll down there are far more reasonably priced models.

>> No.1700554

I've got an old Contra cart that has never worked as long as I've owned it (got it used). I finally take it down to a local game store to see if they can help me clean the contacts, and between the two of us we make some discoveries.

1) The contacts look awful. Several of them are markedly duller than the ones to either side, and there's a black mark on many of them that won't come off (cleaning alcohol, eraser, guy even tried lightly sanding them)

2) The game does the same thing in both my machine and their demo machine, even with a Game Genie plugged in: Black screen, power light off, solid light grey screen, power light on, and just continues to slowly blink back and forth. With the Game Genie plugged in, it doesn't go to the code input screen.

Is there any hope at all for my cart?

>> No.1700563

>>1700485
Stick any ol' magnet onto the side of your generic screwdriver shaft. Screwdriver becomes magnetic.

>> No.1700695

>>1700554
Oven-cleaner on the blackened pins.
Apply it with EXTREME care.

>> No.1701128

I got gifted a Dreamcast that doesn't seem to be able to read discs.
The disc takes a quick whirl when inserted so I suspect the laser. Are there any tricks I could try or are there any DC spare lasers laying around?

>> No.1701139

>>1700554
>Is there any hope at all for my cart?
Unscrew, open and post pics.

>> No.1701604

I don't know if I should ask here or in CRT thread because this is RGB related.

I'm doing this mod: http://retrorgb.com/snesminirgb.html

And I would like to know if i can use these resistors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-Metal-Film-Resistor-1-4W-1-75-ohm-75R-75-/321408638856?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ad5729f88

The ones linked in the page have .6w, and the ones in ebay have .25w. Is that relevant or I should only care about the resistance and tolerance?

>> No.1701732

>>1700485
I got the same two luckie gamebit screwdrivers, I luckily found a magnetic swappable bit screwdriver in a pharmacy for 2 bucks.

>> No.1701741

>>1701604

You should be using 1/8th watt, or 1/4th watt resistors that sort of thing.

>> No.1701763

>>1701741
So, the ones from ebay should do the work?

>> No.1701772

How many of you use third-party AC adapters and controllers? Or do you prefer all-original stuff?

>> No.1701932

>>1701772
I used a third party AC adapter I found in a flea market for my snes, but for some reason it would make my snes not work with some games.

Also the screen looked a little bit weird, weird stuff happened often until I got an original one and everything got solved.

>> No.1701947

>>1701772
I don't use them often. It seems like some consoles, like the SNES, are really specific but others, like the NES, don't give a flying fuck. I really don't care if it's 3rd party if it doesn't affect performance.

>> No.1702025
File: 613 KB, 632x521, ffvi.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1702025

I just got a game boy advance SP 101 model but it seems to be dusty behind the screen
It's not too bad but I was wondering if there is an easy way to clean it off?
I took it apart but it looks like id have to take apart the actual screen unit and I dont want to fuck it up

>> No.1702027

>>1701772
I try to keep it original
I got a snes a couple months ago on ebay that didnt have a AC adapter so I got one on ebay for $8
any sort of cable or peripheral I like to keep it first party if I can

>> No.1702072

>third party cables

Aren't video cables just...cables? The ones that came in the original box aren't exactly special, right?

>> No.1702135

>>1701128
Someone told me once that it helps if you play the console while it's upside down but that just sounds silly. If that doesn't work try using a qtip to clean the lens with alcohol. If that doesn't work you may be able to increase power to the lens by messing with a potentiometer but I've never messed around with that.

>>1702072
The problem isn't with video cables really, it's the power cables. Many of the 3rd party power cables are advertised for use with multiple consoles which they aren't always designed to be used for and sometimes they don't supply the correct amount of power even when used for the right system which can either hurt the system or cause games to have problems.

>> No.1702454

Not exactly retro but I got a PS2 fat that isn't giving me rumble any more. I stuck a third party contention cable into it and it bent one of the side connectors in the PS2.

I tried bending it back and it snapped off a little portion of the connection off when I did that.

Now I don't get rumble any more on PS1 controllers when I try to play PS1 games on it.

I read on the net that it might be a fuse but I am thinking it might be one of those side connections I accident broke off.

The model of PS2 is a 3901. I've attached a picture of the part that broke off. I circled it in red.

>> No.1702457
File: 30 KB, 350x263, PS2-controller-port.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1702457

>>1702454
Derp

Forgot to include the picture

>> No.1702519

>>1702457
>>1702454
Those are just clamps to keep the controller jack secure in the port.
They don't transmit data. At best it might act as a ground, but if the metal is still making contact one breaking off doesn't matter.

>> No.1702523

>>1702519
Yeah, that's what I thought.

The controllers work but no rumble now.

I really don't see how I could have blown a fuse

>> No.1702805
File: 53 KB, 375x271, 4564564.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1702805

hi /vr/ yesterday i was trying to make the backlight mod for the gameboy color the thing is that the backlight the little piece broke (pic related)
can i sold it back? or should i use a another backlight?

>> No.1704448
File: 159 KB, 1280x720, imagen036.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1704448

Hi, need some help, I own since a very long time a gamecube, but it fell from a high like of 45 cm, also a long time ago, then, when i started it, it went directly to the menu screen, like if the disc wasnt inside, then a few months ago i opened it cuz i was going to try to turn the screw to increase the laser strength i did it both ways increased and decreased and nothing happened; I tested the console without the cover, to see how the laser worked, and the light is on it starts to spin, with the disc in, at the beginning a little slow but then it speeds and keeps spinning for a while until it gives up, and it stays in the screen menu, so I bought a new laser I installed it and it did the same!! so obviously it doesnt need cleaning, what can I do? is it the motherboard or what? HEEELLLP !! thanks in advance! :)

>> No.1704449

>>1704448
What's with newfags and not being able to read the sticky? 6th gen consoles are not retro. Why is it always Gamecube that people are trying to post here?

>> No.1704461

>>1704449
Also, Gamecubes cost less than the parts needed to fix them. Seriously, if I offered a repair service I wouldn't even bother with them.

One thing I've been curious about for a while is why the Select and Start buttons on my SNES controllers seem to fail so often. I figure either it's a widespread problem that nobody really talks about or I just have absolute shit luck with SNES controllers.

>> No.1704469

>>1704448
Try asking in the wiki forum. Some number of threads ago, the consensus was that if you needed help with a non-retro console, you should post there instead. Not sure why that bit isn't in the OP.

http://forums.gametechwiki.com/

>> No.1704563

>>1702454
>>1702457
>>1702519
>>1702523

Well, I've tried 3 different PS2 controller ports. No luck.

I've also tried several controllers consisting of PS1 and PS2 combos and nothing.

All the fuses they say to check are fine.

There is a fuse on the top side that isn't giving me continuity. It's a 0.7 Amp surface mounted one. It's number is PS409. I am wondering if this is the problem fuse.

>> No.1704594

>>1704563
>fuse not giving continuity
>wonder if that's the problem

Come on, man.

>car is on fire
>wonder if that's why my keyfob won't chirp the horn

>> No.1704602

>>1704594
There's more then one fuse. I may have missed one. What I meant is I wonder if it's a "Sure fix"

As in, the one part that would bring back my rumble feature.

The PS2 is a complex build. Especially the first three board revisions that stack on top of each other. 4 though 12 are all single board versions and much easier to work with and see all the components.

>> No.1704609

>>1704602
And when I say more then one fuse, I mean there's a fuse for practically every function on the PS2.

Hell, there's a fuse that can blow that will make the hard drive port in the back not work.

Sony really didn't want the PS2 to blow up

>> No.1704978

Query: I have an atari quickshot joystick that, when pressing the button, causes the video to become fuzzy. I am using it with a Sears Video Arcade 2 on Coaxial input. I have no other ataris to try it on, but my Genesis on Composite has no such issue, and it's the only joystick I have that causes this problem on the atari. Anyone have any ideas as to why this happens?

>> No.1705210

>>1704609
Too bad they didn't put more money into the laser diodes, then, because that was the main problem with PS2s.

>> No.1705587

My snes is yellow, what's the best way to clean it?

>> No.1705858

>>1705587
Look up retrobrite or immerse it in hydrogen peroxide while putting constant UV light on it.

>> No.1705861

>>1705587
>>1705858
The shell of course. Take it apart.

I really hope you wouldn't be dumb enough to immerse the important bits in liquid, but who knows these days...

>> No.1705878

PS1 disc reading problems, sometimes it does sometimes it doesn't.

Time to change lens or any simpler fix? I use to hit it a lot and it worked.

>> No.1705909

>>1705878
Have you tried cleaning the lens? A cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol might do the trick.

>> No.1705913

>>1705909
I have done it in the past, it improves the reading but after a couple games is all back again

>> No.1707361

>>1705913
Although quite risky/life shortening, you can change the poti for the lens.

>> No.1708380

hey guys i just bought castlevania 3 for NES and whenever i start it i can hear the music, but the screen is black. and if i press start it brings me to the start screen. after i try to start the game i get the first scene with some jumbled graphics and then it goes to black and freezes. ive tried cleaning it ive tried using the original NES and my multisystem machine but nothing helps. any ideas? thanks in advance.

>> No.1708847
File: 6 KB, 258x250, 276 copy.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1708847

HEY I'VE GOT A QUESTION

How do I fix my N64 Joysticks?
I bought the gamecube-style replacement sticks, and they feel fantastic!
JUST ONE PROBLEM
They're WAY too sensitive AND they easily snap to one of 8 directions.
How do I fix this?

Like I press the joystick a little and it goes max in that direction.
It makes it difficult to walk slowly or do power attacks in smash.
And it snapping to 8 directions makes navigating tricky parts in SM64 difficult.

pls help

>> No.1709016

>>1708380
Pop it open and look for damage.

>>1708847
Unfortunately all I know about fixing those third-party stick issues was a vague video mentioning a micro-controller or modifying an actual gamecube analog stick for use in the 64 controller.
I can't do any research on it today, but hopefully someone more knowledgeable on the matter stops by.

>> No.1709817

I got an used 32x without an AC adapter.
I also got a 9V third party adapter that fits into both my MD1 and 32x. Is it safe to use that? Does the polarity matter?

>> No.1709862

>>1709817
The 32X uses the Genesis 2 / Game Gear AC adapter.

The Neo Geo AES (10V varieties), the Sega CD, the Sega Master System, and the Nintendo Entertainment System can safely use a Genesis 1 AC adapter.

DO NOT EVER use an NES AC adapter with any other device.

>> No.1711252

>>1708847
L+R+Start recenters the stick
I only had to do it a few times for Tiny-Small World and otherwise it didn't do anything.

>> No.1711262

I guess this is kinda light in the mod territory, but what all do you use to make/get end labels for the cartridges that don't natively come with them? Having unlabeled N64 cartridges is making it so I have to leave them sprawled out, and I hate wasting so much space.

>> No.1711571

If I remove the top cover of a fat PS2, can I safely disconnect the fan as well?

>> No.1711637

>>1711571
The PS2 isn't a retro console. Your question would be more well-received on the wiki message board. The link to the wiki is in the OP.

>> No.1712221

>>1711637
>wiki message board
That place is dead.

>> No.1712270

Okay, I've got three questions. 1. I want too buy a docking case for the Turbografx but when I put the docking case in the Turbografx. Do I only need too put an AC power supply in the docking or both? 2. I've a PAL Turbografx, if the docking case would only need 1 power supply. Could I put in the one that came with the console? 3. How do you call the CD players that normally come with the docking case?

>> No.1712350

>>1711571
you'll have to use small pliers or take the psu out for easy access (for my fat fingers)

although v1 models will require more disassembly


keep it retro please

>> No.1712418

>>1712221
If you make a post that needs attention, just post a link in one of these threads, I suppose.

>> No.1712486

>>1712221
That's the catch-22 with the message board - if no one posts on it, it looks dead, and so people won't post.

I suggest doing what >>1712418 said: make a post and share the link here. That could help jump start the forums.

Posting should be enabled without registration with a captcha. If it's not working, say something here and I'll fix it.

>> No.1712574

>>1712350
What I mean is whether or not there's risk of overheating when you you remove the top cover and the fan. Seems like the fan's function is to move the hot air out of the console. With the cover removed hot air doesn't accumulate inside the console and with the fan off the console will run quietly.

>> No.1712784

>>1709817
Here.
I tried the 32x with the 9V and I only got a black screen when turned on. When I put a Genesis game in the game is visible barely on the black screen.
The 32x seems to be the problem, is it dead?

>> No.1714432

My gameboy color speaker is broken. Can I get a compatible speaker replacement without buying a a another gameboy?

>> No.1714613

I'm in the process of troubleshooting and repairing a large number of playstation 1s and I've run into two primary issues with these.

Broken spindle hubs and in the case of the majority of my PSOnes, broken lid/disc tray tabs.

What I'd like to know is if anyone knows a good/reliable source for PS1 laser assembly components. I've tried ordering a lot of replacement Spindle Hubs from rambogames to repair some broken laser assemblies but they either break trying to attach them to the spindle motor (takes a herculian effort with one's thumb) or I end up pressing them to the base preventing the motor from spinning.

I'm considering the possibility the lot I got was bad/generic chinese shit in the first place or that I wasn't installing the spindle hubs properly in the first place.

As for the lids, I know any chance of repair on physical damage to the disc tray/lid is slim to none (especially with the broken tabs from the shell not in my possession). I'd like some advice on this if anyone has any to offer. I've even tried looking for full replacement PSOne shells but those searches didn't turn up anything.

And before anyone mentions it, I'm not buying any pre-assembled/salvaged PS1 laser assemblies because the sellers that have it *cough*richspsxparts*cough* charge more for them than a used, albeit fully-functional PS1 in the first place. Either that or they need to be ordered in large wholesale lots from generic chinese manufacturers on alibaba

>> No.1714628

>>1714432

No. 1714613 here,
Did a quick search on ebay and supposedly (according to the listing) this model speaker should work in the GBC (probably generic but it's not like the OEM speakers were praised for their quality anyways).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-2-GAME-BOY-COLOR-GAME-BOY-ADVANCE-SPEAKER-GBC-GBA-REPLACEMENT-SPEAKER-/181302229407?pt=US_Video_Gaming_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item2a3674799f


As for installation, I'd look up some disassembly videos and you'll probably find something in there that shows how the internal. speaker is wired to the PCB.

Odds are you'll have to desolder the broken one and solder the new one in so I hope you've got the right equipment for it.

>> No.1714630

>>1714432
>>1714628

Scratch that, found some cheaper OEM (claimed at least) ones here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pieces-Brand-New-OEM-Speakers-for-Nintendo-Gameboy-Color-GBC-Game-Boy-Advance/400678754634?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D23772%26meid%3D7861759616152027075%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D10164%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D181302229407&rt=nc

>> No.1714701

>>1714628
>>1714630
Pro tip, the speakers are two wires to hook up

>> No.1716841

been having a rough time with a nes i bought from a goodwill (front loader). wont power on,not even a blinking light. I haven't seen much information on repairing them at this point; mostly all the information i can find is on the blinking light issue. Now i've read that at this point they aren't usually considered fixable, but ive cleaned/looked inside and the board seems to be in perfect condition. I tested the power supply, which works. The only information i could get on this is that the voltage regulator has needed changing in some similar situations. Is this a difficult solder? Do you have any ideas of what it might be?

>> No.1716969

>>1716841
Flashing light is the CPU resetting. Too tired to think straight, but you may need a DMM. Or feed the NES 9VDC and bypass the bridge rectifier. I dunno, it would be a task I'b be hard pressed to bother with, if it was happening to one of my own systems.

>> No.1717289

I've got a Sega CD Model 1 (front-loader) that works just fine, until I listen to the audio.
Every second or so the audio breaks or muffles, almost as if someone is plugging the audio in and out.
I've read online that a fix for that would be to replace the capacitors on each of the boards, but since there's very little documentation on the Model 1 unit I'm not too sure.
Anybody else had this problem? If anybody wants pictures of the machine I can post them.

>> No.1717547

>>1717289
Replacing the caps on an old system like that can't do anything but good for it, and around this time I believe, Sega was having bad luck with defective caps.

>> No.1717565 [DELETED] 

I recently fucked with the potentiometer on my Dreamcast and got it to read games. However, I'm concerned because it makes a really, obnoxiously loud sound whenever I load a game, whether it's a Dreamcast GD disc or a burned CDR. I'm worried that I may have turned it up too much, or something. Basically, I'm wondering if overdoing it with the potentiometer is A) possible B) bad and C) a problem that would create this noise

I have attributed the noise to the age/condition of the console since I found it under an old entertainment center, and it's kinda wonky anyway (controller ports). I'm not really expecting it to last longer than playing through Sonic Adventure once.

>> No.1717741

My friend bought a few nes games at a convention, and 2 of em refuse to work, maybe someone here has an idea?
>ghostbusters & Airwolf
>tried on 4 consoles
>thoroughly cleaned the contacts with very fine sandpaper and alcohol
>blinking red light on the console
>title screen flashes for half a second on the tv
Thanks in advance!

>> No.1717898

>>1717741
Turns out the 10nes chip was the culprit, I sliced the leg and both games boot completely now.

>> No.1718282

>>1717547
I was looking at this pack to get all the capacitors and replace them all in one go.
http://console5.com/store/sega-cd-v1-cap-kit-frontloader.html
Or would it be a better idea to use a multimeter to find the faulty capacitors and replace them individually?

>> No.1718347

>>1718282
I'd say get the kit and double check them as you go.

>> No.1718670

>>1717741
>thoroughly cleaned the contacts with very fine sandpaper and alcohol
>sandpaper

Holy shit, never do that.

>> No.1719521

I bought an original pokemon red today. When I get to the title screen, the pokemon are black boxes, when I start a new game oak is a black box and the game crashes when he gets to "This is a pokemon"

I'm assuming the battery is dead?

>> No.1719532

>>1719521
hell no. clean that bitch out with brass cleaner and iso alcohol

>> No.1719537

>>1719521
The battery is only used for saving. Garbage graphics is indicative of poor metallic or mechanical connection between the cartridge and the handheld.
Check for grime on the contacts, then clean them with a swab dampened in isopropyl alcohol.

>> No.1720730

>>1719521
It's more likely that the ROM chip has dry solder joints.
As the game inits, starts, loads several but not all graphics correctly is a good indicator that some parts of the ROM are inaccessible (these containing these graphics and code at the point where it crashes).

>> No.1720815

>>1718670
Fixed 2 games and some other electronic toys already with just that. I have 2000 grit polishing paper, I'm not going at it with something coarse.

>> No.1721945

>>1720815
Alright. I use #0000 fine steel wool

You'd be surprised at what people rub on games

>> No.1722332
File: 10 KB, 500x281, 2C27150A-BE03-4E0F-630069157FF278BC.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

Is there any way to mod a front loader NES to add a multi out that handles video and audio?

>> No.1722424

>>1701763

Yes.

>> No.1722436
File: 428 KB, 1600x1200, Atari-2600-Paddles-004.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

Cleaning potentiometers?

I pulled out some Coleco Telstar consoles that work perfectly except for the pots. Plus I also have some Atari paddle controllers that I'm sure probably need a cleaning. I'm a bit of a cheapass and don't want to go out and buy a can of contact cleaner unless I have to. Fortunately while searching around, I see people saying to dip it in isopropyl alcohol, and I have a bottle of 91%.

ANyone got comments on cleaning before I dunk them?

>> No.1722437

>>1722424
Thanks anon.

>> No.1722459

>>1722436
I've had mixed results cleaning the pots on Atari paddles. Sometimes a little contact cleaner makes them work like new, sometimes I just end up replacing the entire pot.

Best Electronics sells a replacement pot that's better than the original. I hate ordering them them since the owner is a real cocksucker and their webpage looks like it's from 1995.

>> No.1722682

>>1722332
Yes, if you don't mind sacrificing the RF output like in your image. The pain in the ass is getting a Nintendo multi-out port suitable for installation. Not worth the effort in the LEAST.

>> No.1722817

>>1722682
Due to the advancements in 3D printing it's actually becoming more and more affordable to print out plastic parts like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Tn0cwSjLN8

>> No.1722832
File: 356 KB, 957x718, Fusion 3.64 - Genesis - Monster World 4_2013-05-01_22-06-18.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1722832

So I was trying to do the 60hz and region switch mod on my mega drive 2 but I'm not very good at soldering and can't get the solder to stick. My soldering iron is probably not hot enough or something.

So now I have a half-modded Mega Drive 2, seems like the PAL game I had isn't working, gives me some region lock message. My JPN game works but I can't tell if it's working in 50hz or 60hz. Guess I'll just leave the thing open for now till I get some better iron or something. Either that or I stick to emulating Genesis on my Wii.

>> No.1722985

>>1721945
That's usually why I need to clean mine in the first place... That Airwolf my friend bought had 20 year old cola or something in it, it cracked when I opened the case and even had gunk and splatter around the chips.

>> No.1723010

I ordered an mm3 and I'm about to go get it from the post office. I have a little experience soldering, but only one attempt with a pcb, it went alright but looked terrible. and it wasn't as complex as a PlayStation board. any advice for soldering very small components. i have a helping hands too

>> No.1723158

>>1723010
should i document the process, and maybe make a video for the wiki. might be helpful for people to have an average Joe approach to it

>> No.1723175

>>1723010
Hold down the socket on the mainboard before pulling for ribbon cable for the laser assembly out. Re-attaching that son of a bitch was the antithesis of fun. Remember to heat the element you'll be soldering the wire to, not the solder itself. There are tons of soldering videos on YouTube.

>> No.1723320

>>1722832
Are you using flux?

>> No.1723548

>>1723175
good call on the ribbon, I'm pretty heavy handed with things(mechanic) and i don't always take the correct approach to this stuff.
>>1723320
I've never used flux aside from plumbing. i believe this solder is made to use without it, if not I'm fortunate enough to be getting good results without it. is it something i should look into? I've got a couple things i want to do with my genny.

also, how do tell which pin is which on the chip? I'm assuming the pin with an imprinted circle next it is pin 1, and if it is what's the sequence of numbers from there? I'd guess 1-8 counterclockwise around the chip

>> No.1723557

>>1723320
No. How important is it that I use flux?

>> No.1723565

>>1723548
>>I've never used flux aside from plumbing. i believe this solder is made to use without it,
You should always use flux with solder, it ensures the solder actually stays stuck. A lot of solder comes with flux in the middle of it these days though but it doesn't hurt to have a flux pen anyway for difficult cases like this one.

>> No.1723706

My GC controller is not working
It's cord has a tiny hole near the plug, so i was wondering if i could somehow cut that segment and reconnect it?

>> No.1723724

I just picked up a Dreamcast with Ecco and MDK2. it plays MDK fine (crashed once, but ran fine after) but it can't read Ecco at all. Ecco's disc is in much better shape than MDK, oddly enough.

Any ideas what to do? I read about adjusting the laser's pot, but it seems lime that'd only make sense if it wasn't reading discs at all. same goes with cleaning. should I give it a try anyway?

>> No.1723745

>>1723724
It's reading a music CD right now fine. Seems to just be the Ecco disc, but there's literally not a scratch on it. It looks like it's never been used.

>> No.1723778

My Gameboy has columns of what seem to be dead pixels at either side of the screen.
What might be the problem?

And where do I get a tri-wing screwdriver to open it?

>> No.1723886

>>1722985
90% alcohol will lift it off without being too abrasive

>> No.1723887

>>1723778
Amazon

And it's a common problem. They used glue instead of solider to connect the ribbon cable to the screen. Over the years its dried out and its lifted up. You can re-heat the glue but it's VERY easy to over do it.

>> No.1724282

>>1722682
I have a dead N64 lying here, I intend to take the multi-out port and install it on the NES, or it's there any problem?

>> No.1724291

>>1722817
funny, for some reason I only see this kind of mod for Top Loader nes, I just want to use the same SCART cable for my 3 nintendo consoles (nes, snes and 64).

I will install the NESRGB board and I'm planning on use a dead N64 multi out on that NES to output the RGB and Audio signal and use the same cable for all consoles.

Another question would be, will NESRGB board output stereo sound too, or just mono?

>> No.1725275

>>1723557
Flux ensures that the solder sticks to the parts you're trying to solder together, when used properly.

It's possible, when it's not sticking, to just keep the heat on and it'll eventually stick, but you're almost guaranteeing that you're going to damage something with all that heat.

>> No.1725295

>>1724282
>>1724291
>dead N64
I bet it isn't. Unless it shows signs of overclocking.

>> No.1725298

I have a frequency modded PAL MD1 (which means either EU 50hz or USA 60hz) and I'm willing to get CD and 32X expansions. If I was to get an european Mega CD would American/Japanese games still work at 60hz when appropriately switched? And what about getting a Sega CD or Japanese MCD? Would 50hz work then?

What about 32X? I saw some cheap Super32X and I plan to use flash cartridges at either refresh rate, is the region of the adapter relevant?

>> No.1725314

>>1722817
I was meaning to post that video

I wonder if I could convince the guy to sell just the jack and the back panel

>> No.1725317

>>1724291
I don't think the NESRGB board deals with sound channels. You'd have to preform a stereo mod on top of it

>> No.1725327

I'm new to the retro scene, and had a question:

If I bought a game, for simplicity's sake we'll go with Pokemon Gold, and a CR1616 battery, is it just as simple as remove old battery, solder old on?

Just thought I'd do some research on the matter. I recently acquired a few battery reliant games and wondered what proper procedure was. Most web tutorials I've found on Google seem too simple to be true.

>> No.1725329

>>1725327
Solder new on*

I shouldn't be allowed to post before getting fully caffeinated.

>> No.1725334

>>1725327
>retro scene

>> No.1725425

>>1725327
Soldering on a battery is very difficult, I just taped mine in, works like a charm.

>> No.1725527

>>1724291
>funny, for some reason I only see this kind of mod for Top Loader nes,
He made a generic one for the regular nes as well but it doesn't look as stock as that one does.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdzr19thxRY

>> No.1725613

>>1725425
If generic soldering is difficult for you then battery soldering is very difficult.
But it's actually more simple than you think, if you follow 2 simple rules:
1. Keep the soldering time as low as possible, don't solder the battery longer than 30 seconds.
2. Let the battery cool down.
Bonus rule: Common sense.

One thing to mention is that the surface of most battery is too smooth for solder to stick on.
Carefully use sandpaper or similar to make the surface rough.

>I just taped mine in, works like a charm.
It works for now but how long?
Well, i promise that you're going to find that out by surprise.

>> No.1726078

>>1725425
If you're incapable of restoring something to its original state, you shouldn't be trying to 'fix' it.

If you're worried about soldering onto the battery, you can buy tabbed batteries. You're better off doing that anyway.

>> No.1726141

Hey guys. I'm no expert on old tech or repairs in general, so bear with me.

I own two original (brick) Game Boys, and they've both started making this awful buzzing noise. It's always there, and always a constant volume, regardless of whether I turn the sound off completely or on full blast. When I plug in headphones, the noise starts coming through them instead, so clearly it's not a problem with the speaker.

Surprisingly, there's barely any information about this online. The only thing I did find (a sketchy community answers section on some tech website) basically said it can't be fixed. Is this true? Am I just going to have to live with this?

>> No.1726169
File: 36 KB, 600x419, 1361902954252.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1726169

>>1726078
>If you're incapable of restoring something to its original state, you shouldn't be trying to 'fix' it.
Why do you care how someone else fixes his shit? What's wrong with it if it works, you probably can't even see it since it's inside the goddamn cartridge.

>> No.1726170

>>1726141
Do you use them with batteries of with AC adapter? Mine will make a buzzing sound when I use the AC adapter.

>> No.1726194

>>1726169
Well, I don't really.

When they start recommending that other people do it wrong is when I start to care.
That and when I'm sold a "great condition" game, and then I open it up to find some shitty tape job

>> No.1726203

>>1726170
I was using the AC adapter. Really, that can cause it? I never would've guessed.

Unfortunately I don't have enough AA batteries to test it, but I'll keep that in mind.

>> No.1726215

>>1726194
>>1726078
I fix em so that I can play them, when I get doubles in a lot I give em to my friends. And even if I ever were to sell a game with a taped battery, I'd put it in the description, because I'm very honest when buying or selling stuff.
Still, I can see your point, considering the condition of some items I receive...
But with this, I don't even remember which game I did it with, and the battery has 4x the capacity so it should last 15+ years.

>> No.1726735

PS1 SCPH-7501. Plugged into wall after being stored for a while, made a high-pitched whining noise and refused to turn on. As I recall, it didn't make the noise again when I tried it again later, but still wouldn't power on.
I assumed it was an internal power supply failure, but I'm not very experienced with these things at all. Thoughts?

>> No.1726857

Tried to open up NES to clean pins, but the screws in the pcb were super tight and I accidentally stripped a screw.
Anyone know how I'd get the screw out now?

>> No.1726938

>>1726735
bump

>> No.1727059

>>1726857
Always tighten a screw slightly before trying to remove it.

What kind of stripped are we talking about? Nothing but a round hole left or is it just rounded off a bit?

>> No.1727110

>>1726735
>>1726938
Might be the fuse

You're going to have to open it and check to see if the fuse blew

>> No.1727116

I got a Dreamcast VMU that has a vertical line in the screen. Is this reparable or is it fucked?

>> No.1727276

>>1726203
Same guy here.

I just got some fresh AA batteries, and it seems the AC adapter was the cause of the buzzing. But I've come across another problem: only one of my Game Boys turns on when I use batteries. The other works with the AC adapter, but when I put the exact same set of batteries from the other GB into this one, it won't turn on.

It worked fine when I bought it 3 years ago. There hasn't been any obvious damage to the battery compartment. Any ideas as to what's going on?

>> No.1727296
File: 120 KB, 575x400, 162588-gameboy_07_slide.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1727296

>>1727276
it might be the contacts. They're kinda cheaply made and corrode over time.

I'd test the game boy while open so you can see if it's getting the full 6 volts from the batteries

I circled the two contacts. Don't test while the Game Boy is on

>> No.1727316

I just found an old pokemon silver version and my gameboy color, the problem is that it didn't have a save on it and I know that usually means internal battery for the game is dead but I can save right now and it works (at least for the hour since I found it). I have 2 questions though, is there any chance my game won't be erased after some more time and is there any way to replace the battery in the cartridge?

>> No.1727323

>>1727316

The save will vanish sooner or later and the battery is super easy to replace.

You'll need a gamebit (smaller size; Amazon) and new battery (preferably a tabbed CR2032). And a soldering iron.

Or you could tape a new battery if you really want to.

>> No.1727351

>>1727323
Aight thanks nigga, i have a watch battery but no gamebit, the save actually vanished just as I wrote this so it looks like I'll have to shell out for one after I try jamming everything I can find in there trying to budge it loose lol

>> No.1727364

>>1727059
Not quite a round hole, but rounded off enough that I cant use a flathead

>> No.1727371

>>1727316
No, Your game will be gone the moment you turn it off and yes there is a way to replace the battery

>>1727323
Taping is the super geto way and isn't a good method

>> No.1727380

>>1726735
Was it stored in a place with humidity? That could have blown a fuse. That's how I killed my NES.

>> No.1727385

>>1727380
A NES has a fuse?? Where exactly?

>> No.1727393

>>1727385
I don't know if the NES has fuses, but it died when I plugged it after being stored in a place with a lot of humidity. I still don't know if I can replace something to make it work again.

But I'm sure the PS1 has fuses, I just don't know which one is the one you need to replace.

>> No.1727398

>>1727393
Yes, the PS1 has one main fuse

the NES on the other hand doesn't, at least I don't think it does. I haven't seen anything mention it.

And you might have popped the 7805 regulator

>> No.1727473
File: 26 KB, 300x300, 520_31_02_stripped_screw_TL_01_MWR.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1727473

>>1726857
Stick a rubber band in there to get a better grip.
https://vine.co/v/bU61aqq2YOp

Or if you have a Dremel, cut a slot so you can use a flathead. (pic)

>> No.1727949

>>1727364
Well they take phillips standard. Try one of those with the rubber band suggestion from >>1727473.
That may give it enough grip to get it loose, though you're gonna have to use a good amount of force to keep it from jumping out. Again, try tightening it a slight amount before loosening. That frees the threads up easier than just trying to take it out.


If you just wind up finishing it off and stripping it completely, you can use a drill to carefully bore the head off the screw, and then use pliers to unscrew the leftovers. Key word on this is carefully.

>> No.1728508

>>1727473
>>1727949
Okay thanks guys. I'll keep this in mind next time I try

>> No.1728925

So I acquired a SNES Gold(C), model SNS-001 for $15 from a flea market. I expected it not to work totally, but it seems to be problem.

All Mode 7 content is stretched and scaled improperly. The intro to Super Metroid jumps around, Iggy's platform in Super Mario World is twice as wide as the screen, and Yoshi's Island just gives me a black screen.

Also, the video signal is slightly greenish and blurry compared to my other consoles, and this is thru S-video. I can adjust the phase on my PVM to compensate, but it never looks quite right. (I would go for RGB, but I heard it's pretty blurry)

>> No.1728992

I have a bunch of random Saturn games which won't run properly on my Saturn. They usually play fine but then freeze somewhere or they fail to run at all. What's the best way to repair a lot of disks quickly and easily?

>> No.1729020

>>1728925
>RGB
>Blurry

Au contraire, mon nigga, it's the crispiest image possible. Anyway, I'd advise you to check for faulty capacitors, and use different cables and TVs to test it.

>> No.1729064

>>1728925
Standard open it up and look for obvious issues answer. It's the best way to start.

>> No.1729428

>>1729020
I have a wii hooked in thru component, and it's super crisp. I was just under the impression that SNES has blurry RGB output.

>> No.1729889 [DELETED] 

You guys can probably try in about 2 minutes. HK's shutting down the server and doing a hard reboot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6ht5sP5P6U

>> No.1730071

>>1727116
Bump

>> No.1730171
File: 3.56 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140630_225621.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1730171

Anyone got an idea why this Pokemon Silver my friend gave me isn't working? Cleaned the contacts thoroughly.

>> No.1730192

>>1730171
The traces above the contacts look spotty. Make sure they're not broken.

>> No.1730196

>>1730192
I see some copper or rust actually. Do I blast it with brasso?

>> No.1730214

>>1730196
Well, they are pretty important.
Try to clean off anything that doesn't look like the green masking and clean copper. If you do find breaks, you'll need to patch it up with solder or jump it.

After you've gotten it working, you'll want to use clear nail polish or something to cover up the bare traces so they don't get corroded.

>> No.1730226

>>1730214
>you'll need to patch it up with solder
Shoot, how small of a tip you need for that? And how could I jump it?

>> No.1730235

>>1730196
>Do I blast it with brasso?
Sure, if you want to remove the traces entirely.

Try writing over them with a pencil to see if that fills in the gaps enough. You can always remove it later.

>> No.1730245

>>1730171
Anyone know of a good way to repair solider mask on a trace like this? I was thinking something I can paint onto the board to cover up exposed traces

>> No.1730250

>>1730226
You shouldn't need anything smaller than the average tip.

Jumping involves just bypassing the trace with a wire. It's the messy way of doing it, though, and you have to keep wire placement in mind.

Here's a video with some info on trace patching and some basics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPLD3fYfEYc

>> No.1730261
File: 3.23 MB, 3264x2448, 1404183705471.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1730261

>>1730171
These traces are most likely cut and are going to need to be repaired

>> No.1730283
File: 3.59 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140630_233545.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1730283

>>1730261
A better pic of that side, are they cut?

>> No.1730312

>>1730283
Only way to tell for sure is with a multimeter

>> No.1732870

>>1730245
Bump

>> No.1732931
File: 1.70 MB, 3264x2448, ds hinge.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1732931

dunno if i should post here considering it's a retro board, but i would like some help on this. lately this happened to my nintendo ds lite. what should i do?

>> No.1732938

>>1732931
new body

>> No.1732952

>>1732931
They say the hinge is where Nintendo had to hold the DS Lite to dunk it in the holy river of Nintendium.

You need a new upper or lower body replacement, can't see too well, make sure you don't cheap out though, I think china makes fakes of it.

>> No.1732961

The sega saturn model 2 dont spin the cd and in the bios/cd player screen is slow as hell. When disconected the optic drive cable flat runs perfect.

>> No.1733212

>>1732931
Unfortunately there is no repairing a broken hinge on a DS of any sort.

You'll need a new top shell for a break in that location.

>> No.1734182

Just bought some PS1s that aren't cosmetically great so I can swap the laser assemblies for my better PS1s.
It was literally just working. Now it won't read anymore. What the fuck just happened.

>> No.1734185

>>1734182
Just wait for PSIO.

>> No.1734801

>>1734182
check your connections, something could have come loose.

>> No.1734826

>>1723557
>>1725275

This. I used 60/40 Resin core to do an SNES Mini S-video restoration, and putting flux on both the wire tip and the area to be soldered did help.

But do you know what also helped? PRACTICE.

If you're soldering something different, or new. Or even just smaller than you're used to. Or you're new to soldering? PRACTICE.

Hell. Practice for an afternoon. Hold off your project until the next day. Or the day after that. Get in practice, then get lots of rest. The next day, I promise you, that shit will come to you like you were born of the solder, and other men are just molded by it.

>> No.1735263

>>1734826
I de-soldered a SNES game with relative ease. I was surprised that it came off so well.

Then I went and tried to de-soldere a NES game and it was a nightmare.

Did they use some sort of different solder for the NES? The NES solder just wouldn't flow onto the wick I had and that's with liquid flux

Do you have any tips on how to loosen old solider? I've tried added new and it seems to help a bit but nothing seems to really pull it off in one go.

>> No.1735952

>>1722436

You can clean out the pot with alcohol but that'll leave it very dry.
Contact cleaners usually contain some type of lubricant.

>> No.1735956

>>1732931

No matter how carefully you handle it, be it in a couple years or a couple dozen, this is the ultimate fate of every DS lite.

>> No.1735968

I've been using windex to clean my carts because I figured the ammonia would dry faster. Is isopro 100% better?

>> No.1735979

>>1735968

Yes.

Fewer additives that stay behind after it dries.

Dry time isn't really an issue with carts.

>> No.1735984

>>1735979
Will isopro fuck up labels though? Windex seems pretty safe for cleaning plastic, and it doesn't dissolve labels or the ink on them. When given a light wipe at least.

>> No.1735985

>>1735263

If you're just de-soldering through hole components from a PCB, I'd recommend using a de-soldering iron.

The cheapo Radio Shack one will do fine.

>> No.1735994

>>1735985
I used that one

It quickly fell apart and chipped

>> No.1736016

>>1732931
I've owned four DS lites. All four have had a break in the right hinge. All of them. I am not a clumsy sort. I have had other, singular handheld pieces of technology for many, many years. For example, I only last week finally got a smartphone after nearly eight years of the same candybar handi and we all know how easily mobile phones can break.
Despite my best efforts to keep the thing happy and health, the DS lite, however, is shoddily made and breaks if you so much as give it a stern gaze.
The only repair is to replace either the screen case or body case or both depending on which hinge is actually broken. This is because the hinge itself is not a separate part but rather an extension of the case itself. Once it's broken, that's it, sorry to say.
I do wish this wasn't the case, but alas! It is. Thankfully, you can get an original DS for pennies nowadays and those are battle tanks in comparison.

>> No.1736236
File: 15 KB, 274x304, 1390685275309.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1736236

>people on ebay selling for parts consoles for $50 a piece

>> No.1737286

>>1736236
How long until 3D printers affects this because people can just print a new case instead of having to buying a dead unit?

>> No.1737425
File: 2.77 MB, 2304x1728, IMG_0302.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1737425

I'm having a problem with a Yoshi's Island cart.
The game plays exactly normal except for two things:
1) The file select has little vertical bars that come down half the screen.
2) On underground levels, if you hit a help block, a tile will fill the screen as far down as the bottom of the help window as soon as it closes. The same effect applies if you pause, only it will tile over the entire game screen.

I've tried cleaning the cartridge up and bottom, and my other cartridge (A Super Game Boy) works absolutely perfect. Here's a picture of the popped open circuitry, if that helps. I'm, frankly, completely unfamiliar with the SNES and Yoshi's Island because I could never find one for a good price (finally did), so I have no idea where to start beyond the obvious. Google was no help.

>> No.1737431
File: 2.85 MB, 2304x1728, IMG_0306.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1737431

>> No.1737552

>>1737425
>>1737431
>Here's a picture of the popped open circuitry, if that helps.

Ok, if you're going to take a picture of something, make sure you have it properly focused so we can actually see it.

>> No.1737557

>>1737552
Shitty camera and shitty hands, I'll see if I can invent a tripod

>> No.1737558
File: 756 KB, 1836x3264, Turbo Everdrive without USB port - top.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1737558

>>1737552
>if you're going to take a picture of something, make sure you have it properly focused so we can actually see it
LIIIIKE THIIIIIIIS!

>> No.1737583
File: 3.07 MB, 2304x1728, IMG_0309.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1737583

>>1737558
You people and your fancy cameras
>>1737552
Busted out the proper tripod, this should be more helpful.

>> No.1737585
File: 3.01 MB, 2304x1728, IMG_0311.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1737585

>> No.1737654

>>1737585
>>1737583
Those pins look very tarnished

Also FX games use a grounding pin and the contact for it is on the lower left (The gold little box). You might want to see if that has any tarnish on it. The Pin is in the plastic shell and sits against that box

>> No.1737659

>>1737583
>fancy cameras

BlackBerry Z10. Hardly fancy, but better camera than the shit they slap in the iPhones.

>> No.1737674

>>1737654
It's got a pretty high luster, actually, and the only really bad pin as far as I can tell is 17 and it's just a speck. I've been going away on it, but it isn't moving. Frankly, I can't tell if it's worn off some of the metal or if it's just a stubborn speck. Suffice to say, it ain't coming off with q-tips and alcohol. Is there something stronger that wont risk the metal I should try?
>>1737659
A blackberry can do that? Why on earth did the iPhone win? And hell, this isn't even an iPhone; it's some Canon budget model that I won in a raffle a few years back.

>> No.1737680

>>1737674
I use #0000 super fine steel wool then 90% alcohol to clean it off then I wipe it with the dry side

>> No.1737683

>>1737680
I was gonna say, I'd be afraid to try #0000 because of metal loss
I'll give it a shot I suppose. The SNES tries to make contact at the midpoint of the contact, right? I mean, it does seem to be having trouble booting this particular cartridge so I suppose it is probably the contacts, but in this lighting it looks pretty lustrous.

>> No.1737687

>>1737683
The metal loss is really light if there is any.

#0000 steel wool shreds really easily and is used to polish silverware.

>> No.1737701

>>1737683
>>1737687
Also the SNES uses all the pins with an FX game. You'll notice that the board has an extra 16 pins for it compared to other games.

I'd try to see if the grounding pin is bent or tarnished. It should be in the plastic shell of the game. It makes contact with the outside of the cartage slot

>> No.1737710

The wiki says "any video gaming hardware" does that also mean DSs? Because my girlfriends is having a problem.

>> No.1737716

>>1737710
Its mostly retro, but I don't see why you couldn't ask

>> No.1737724

>>1737701
Pin 49 looks untraced to me, but that's being picky. I tried the #0000 on all the pins, they're spotless. I also scrubbed a bit on the FX grounds, both the shell side and the PCB side. While it is having some bootup problems that my gut says should be connection-related, I also can't shake how *very* consistent this bug is. It's operating the exact same way every time, and at least in my familiar case (NES-cart to NES-pins), it wouldn't be this regular.

Do you think pictures of the specific two bugs would be helpful?

>> No.1737726

>>1728992
Anybody? CD repair stuff?

>> No.1737732

>>1737716
>>1737710
Well it's a DS Lite and when she turns it on and the screen flashes white and instantly turns off again. Any ideas anyone?

>> No.1737742

>>1737724
Yes, I do think pictures of the glitch would help

You might have to clean the SNES cartage slot. If you can tell me if your SNES has either a metal sticker or molded FCC warning on the bottom I can tell you what model SNES you might have and how to go about cleaning the cartage slot

>>1737732
Hmm, that's a good one. I don't know what might be wrong with it. Might want to try it plugged into the wall and see if it turns on to rule out the battery not charging.

>> No.1737743

>>1737732
When it flashes on and off like that, it means the self test detected an issue. Most of the time it can be fixed by just opening the thing up and re-seating cables, especially the ones for the screens.

>> No.1737752

>>1737726
You're going to have to take it to a place like a video rental store and get them resurfaced if they're scratched. Also, hold disks up to a light source and look for any pinholes of light coming though the disk

>> No.1737753

>>1737743
I'll look into that. Thank you.
>>1737742
She has tried that and it still does it.

>> No.1737756

>>1737753
Other then what >>1737743 said I can't really comment on what might be wrong

>> No.1737757

>>1737732
I agree with >>1737743

I've taken my Lite apart for fun a few times, that kind of thing is a sign that not everything was connected properly. Just open it up and make sure everything is hooked up properly. Just don't screw up, the top screen ribbon cable can be a bit of a pain, so be particularly careful with that one most of all. Other than that, it's a simple thing to take care of. While you're at it, you can also fix the L and R buttons up if they are problematic. There's a guide here: http://gbatemp.net/threads/kipmudzs-solution-to-malfunctioning-dslites-shoulder-buttons.335590/

>> No.1737761

>>1737757
Sorry, just saw >>1737753

I've never heard of the problem being like that before. Best of luck with it.

>> No.1737764

>>1737742
It's a moulded on FCC warning
I uploaded and annotated the images here, because it'd be a bitch on 4chins
http://imgur.com/a/EoI2b

>> No.1737769

>>1737764
Well, you have a good chance at being able to open the SNES and get under the cartage slot. Some, SOME, of them with the molded on FCC warning have removable cartage slots.

And if this was any sort of other game that didn't use the FX chip I would say its the video encoder.

I think FX chips have their own video encoder and just pass though the image to the system

>> No.1737782

>>1737769
>>1737764
Also if you have a multimeter you can go and check all the surface mounted components such as resistors and that capacitor

>> No.1737784

>>1737769
I'll give it a shot
believe it or not, I at one point found STEEL WOOL HAIRS in that cartridge slot, and I had to vacuum the damn thing out. I think I got it all, didn't see any more with a magnifying glass, but as far as I can tell the Super Game Boy is unaffected by any of this.

Actually this console came to me in bad cosmetic condition in general, it looked like someone had burned the top with a waffle iron before I scrubbed off the damage. It's still slightly visible.

Think the FX chip might be damaged?

>> No.1737793

>>1737782
I hadn't cleaned its innards yet
it will now be cleaned
Oh my god this is so much hair

I'll check it with the multimeter in a bit

>> No.1737798

>>1737784
It might be. I have really no idea. If you have any other FX chip games such as star fox I'd try that in the system too.

Also, you might have more steal wool fibers bridging something in the slot.

>>1737793
Hair can do it too.

Especially cat hair. I had a NES that wouldn't work with any MMC3 chip game (such as Mario bros 3) and it turns out one of the issues was cat hair in the slot as well as tarnishing

>> No.1737801

>>1737798
>>1737793
>>1737784

And Pro Tip. Using caned air to blow out the slot is better then vacuuming

>> No.1737810

>>1737801
It was kinda a panic reaction to vacuum, but can it is now

>> No.1737816

>>1737810
If you can pop the slot off the board (if it has a removable one) you can blow it from under the slot

>> No.1737818

>>1737816
it looks removable, two silver screw flanking each side

>> No.1737820

>>1737818
Well, that holds it down to the board. You can pop that slot off most likely once you have the entire board off

>> No.1737848

>>1737820
big old hunk of hair wedged between the connector and the pins on the actual board
how did it even get there
already found spider eggs

think there'd be anything wrong with attempting to power it on before reassembling the shell?

>> No.1737851

>>1737848
No, you can power it on without the top half of the shell on. Just be sure to not touch anything as you might blow the fuse

>> No.1737856

>>1737851
Also before working on it again, turn it on without the power plugged into it to discharge the system

I'd clean the pins under the slot with 90% alcohol and a tooth brush

>> No.1737873

>>1737856
one of these pins looks like a little brown circle had been burnt into it, it's the 10th pin from the left on the front side of the snes
think that might be it?

>> No.1737880

>>1737873
you might be able to scrub that off.

Is it on the cartage slot or is it on the board slot?

>> No.1737889

>>1737880
boardside
so far no luck

>> No.1737904

>>1737880
patience conquers all, it's off

>> No.1737905

>>1737889
hmm....

A picture of the board and the spot would help

>> No.1737914
File: 126 KB, 456x447, 1386570988275.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1737914

>>1737905
>>1737904
Good

That might have been the problem.

You could test it now if you wanted.

>> No.1737915

>>1737905
it's gone now, but it was a hollowed circle about the diameter of my 1.4mm flathead screwdriver head, from the point where the pins have the little slot cut into them (individually) to halfway down the pin
in any case, gone

>> No.1737918

>>1737914
shall do noble techpriest

>> No.1737921

>>1737915
>>1737915
>>1737918

Ohh, alright.

And that was on the board? Huh, I didn't know the board side pins have the splits

>> No.1737934

>>1737921
The pin itself is a snaking pattern, right, starting with a small curl, with a long vertical stretch, bending to a short horizontal and again to the short vertical - all of those bends lead the piece farther away from the middle. On that first curl, it's got a little hollowed out section for a millimeter down from the end of the curve.

little circle burned juuuust below that little hollow

>> No.1737936

>>1737934
Mind taking a picture of it?

>> No.1737959
File: 3.99 MB, 1600x1200, looked like this.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1737959

>>1737936
It looked roughly like this, only less like mspaint

>> No.1737971

>>1737959
And there's a hole in that now? That might need to be repaired

>> No.1737981

>>1737971
not a hole, just a little burn ring on the surface of the pin that I cleaned off
when I say slot, I mean the ones that are meant to be there, the ones above that little brown circle

>> No.1737986

>>1737981
Well, if there's no hole then go ahead and test it

>> No.1738037

>>1737986
No change, even though this is now a significantly cleaner SNES

>> No.1738045

>>1738037
hmm, alright

If you have any other FX games, test it with that. Also testing on another SNES would work

>> No.1738063

>>1738045
Sadly, don't have either of those on hand; I'll have to look into that sorta thing later. So now I'm racking my brain as to what else I haven't checked. I'm currently comparing mine to a reference image of a Yoshi's Island PCB to see if there's an obvious difference.

>> No.1738109

>>1738045
Do you think those graphical errors only occur on stages where the background is being handled by the superfx chip?

>> No.1738120

>>1738109
Its entirely possible but I have no idea really

You should poke around with a multimeter and check resistances and traces

>> No.1738860

>>1737701
No it fucking don't. Using the 21Mhz SNES master clock (pin 1) for the SuperFX is just an option, which is always unused. (I think early globtop Starfox carts use that)
U4 and X1 is a separate oscillator for the SuperFX.

I also want to point to a older comment from me (the only post ITT containing "dry solder joints"):
>>1720730

>> No.1739961

>>1738860
Well, what ever. I was just trying to help.

That is also a possibility but Its hard to tell from just pictures so that's why I said check with a multimeter

>> No.1740018

>>1739961
I did eventually check up on it with a multimeter, for what few elements are on the cartridge. They all looked in line.

>> No.1740029

>>1740018
Alright

I'd check for dry solder joints like >>1738860 said

>> No.1740084

>>1740029
I'm no solder expert, so what I say's spotty; but I don't see any give in any of the pins and none of them look particularly dull...and to my knowledge that's the tells for dry solder joints.

>> No.1740103

>>1740084
That's not always a tell tell sign of dry solder. Solder can look fine on top but really be dry underneath the pin

>> No.1740114

>>1740103
What do you look for then?

>> No.1740120

>>1740114
Just touch the legs of the chips with a soldering iron for a second or two. It's easier than trying to figure out if any of them are cracked and does no harm of you don't smear it around and bridge anything.

>> No.1740126

>>1740114
You don't look, you check for continuity with a multimeter.

That's the sure fire way to be sure somethings connected

>> No.1740195

>>1740126
>>1740120
They're all continuous, I tested 9 resistors and 18 capacitors, as well as a handful of traces on the back.

>> No.1740234

>>1740195
That really is strange if they're all conected and it still isn't working

I am thinking maybe the SNES is having problems with FX enabled games. If you can get your hands on a Star Fox cartage that would be great.

>> No.1740240

>>1740234
It might take a while but I might end up getting another copy of Yoshi's Island to test with. I'll see then. For some reason my gut says it's the SuperFX chip itself that's gone wonky, on account of it only breaking on some levels where it does tricks with the background - backgrounds with multiple layers, like waterfalls and arches and whatnot.

>> No.1740243

>>1740195
You tested the only the resistors and caps?

Don't ignore the ICs, they're not immune to joint issues.

>> No.1740245

>>1740240
If you supect the FX chip is at fault you could test all the pins on it to see if they're connected.

Also, what's the capacitance of that surface mounted capacitor?

>> No.1740268

>>1740245
I do see a misolder here, actually. If you look back up to >>1737583 and follow pin 40 to the IC, there's something strange going on with the solder on the IC (if your eyes are straining, it's the bottom pin on the right side of the chip - right next tomarking 56.

>> No.1740273

>>1740245
the end result is high resistance

>> No.1742323

bump

>> No.1742754

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with LRC meters and testing capacitance

I was wondering what hertz should be testing at for smaller capacitors

>> No.1742823

>>1742754
Small capacitance = higher frequency. Turn the frequency up until the capacitance stays pretty stable.

>> No.1742884

>>1742823
Alright

my LRC meter can do 1k. That seems to be alright for smaller caps.

I know this is going to sound stupid but LCR meters can test caps in circuit right?

I bought the same LCR meter as that guy that does the top loader mods (GameTechUS). Too bad it didn't come with a manual

>> No.1743258

>>1742884
You can try but if there are multiple caps in parallel you might get strange results.

>> No.1743376

>>1743258
Yeah, I do

Is there any way to narrow down what cap in a parallel might be bad?

>> No.1743407

>>1743376
You really can't do much except test each one as far as I'm aware. It might just be easier to just replace them all if the capacitor bank is large enough.

>> No.1743435

>>1743407
mmm, alright

I wish there was a way

>> No.1743438

>>1743435
>>1743407
There's like 5 caps in a Sega genesis 2 that I'm wondering about

I suppose I could add up each value and see if it comes anywhere near the value I get

>> No.1743449

>>1743438
You could try that but it probably wont really help in singling out a failed cap.

>> No.1743464

>>1743449
True

Do you know of a guide that goes over LCR meters and testing for bad caps?

>> No.1743496
File: 16 KB, 360x360, ST-DIP-NPN-Silicon-Power-Transistor.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1743496

>>1647325
I had the same problem on my SMS from a junk store. I had to replace the power transistor on the motherboard. Looks like this. Near the power plug input.

>> No.1743501

>>1743496
It should be a 7805 5V DC like most of the old retro systems, right?

>> No.1743689

>>1743501
>most of the old retro systems, right?
More like most of electronics in general.

>> No.1744002

>>1743689
Since when??

>> No.1744019

>>1744002
I saw it in TVs, radios, amps, some power supplies.
This a general purpose IC which can be used in all kinds of electronic devices. But nowadays manufacturers go for more modern and efficient regulators.

>> No.1744025

>>1743496
Hey. Had this problem on my Sega CD, actually. Looked like 4 or 5 people had replaced the fuse to no effect before I got it.

>> No.1744803

Took my nes apart to clean the connector and now it wont power on.
Is there a fuse or something inside the nes that i could have blown?

>> No.1745010

>>1744803
Just to be sure, you're sure you wired the power wire to the power connector and not the reset wire to the power connector?

>> No.1745838

>>1743438
>>1743449
>>1743464

I replaced the biggest caps first (220 uF) and the Sega showed a spark of life and showed me the TMSS about 1/4th of the time I cycled the power. Is this still a sign of bad caps?

Right now I am looking to replace the 100 uF and 47 uF caps that where in parallel

>> No.1745864

>>1745838
It could be, never hurts to replace an old capacitor anyway. Also Sega has been known to use bad caps.

>> No.1745869

>>1745864
Yeah, I know Sega is notorious for bad caps.

The only reason I am hesitant to replace all the caps is because of cost (its a model 2 Sega) and that there's are a fuck ton of 10uF 10V caps that I really don't want to have to replace.

Ah well, at least liquid flux makes it slightly easier to lift caps of the board.

>> No.1745882

>>1745869
>>1745864
Also, I am wondering what frequency I should be testing caps at. I have 100 hertz, 120 hertz, and 1k hertz.

I know that people test ESR at 10K, but I am wondering what the ESR of caps under 1k would show as. I went for a cheaper meter (the the that GameTechUS on YouTube uses)

You wouldn't happen to know any charts out there at show typical ESR under 1k, would you?

>> No.1745958

>>1745882
No idea generally the lower the frequency the less accurate the reading will be. The ESR gets higher as the capacity gets smaller, a 47uf might be as much as 20ohm depending on the brand and kind

>> No.1745973

>>1745958
hmm, alright

My meeter has Dissipation as a secondary stat when testing capacitance. In the GameTechUS videos he called is ESR. I am wondering what that number should be for each cap and at each frequency

>> No.1747205

Just got a hold of a PC Engine Duo for cheap. It plays Hu Cards just fine and the sound works great, but it fails to read CD's. The spindle works just fine and I can see the laser adjusting it's focus, though the laser itself doesn't move from it's starting position on the track. I'll be picking up some security Torx bits after work later today so I can take this thing apart.

>> No.1749521

Hello /vr/ I've wanted to put a nintendo ds backlight into my game gear for quite some time now. I've replaced the capacitors and gotten all of the necessary components such as NDSi bottom screen and LM2577 converter board. I originally saw this mod here: http://www.smspower.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13132
and someone completed it on youtube but not in a tutorial but only showing the finished result: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oo-R7GwZKW8 and the other tutorial is in french: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxT_peqtUMk.. Has anyone done this before? Would really like some feedback or assistance before I begin.

>> No.1751541

bump

>> No.1751620

I've got an issue with a Sega CD I am trying to hook up into my Genesis.

I am in Brazil, so both should be PAL.

Symptions:

-The red led from the Genesis does not light up. I believe I see it flash on when I turn it on sometimes, but doesn't stay;

-When I turn it on, it gives me the problem, saying that the game inside isn't a NTSC game. There's no game inside;

What could be wrong?

>> No.1751651

>>1751620
I am 100% positive the Sega CD is PAL, because it's signed on the bottom by Tec Toy(Brazilian company that distributed SEGA stuff on the 90s), and it's all in portuguese as well.

My Genesis should also be a PAL version, since it works with my BR carts.

It's weird that the warning screen claims that it's a NTSC Sega CD, when it isn't. Even more weird is that the led does not power on.

>> No.1751682

>>1751620
>>1751651
Two BRbros on /vr/? Wow, we're a really rare breed around here.

>> No.1751889

>>1745973
Bumping my question

>> No.1752741
File: 146 KB, 1400x1400, stahl ssvt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1752741

Since it seems like I'm going to need to modchip both my Dreamcast and PSX, and possibly also replace a controller port on my Genesis, does anyone have any recommendations for a decent, relatively inexpensive soldering iron?

Are those cordless cold soldering things any good? Seems like they wouldn't be.

>> No.1752747

>>1752741
What is inexpensive to you?

>> No.1752751

>>1752747
Around $50 or less, say. Assuming you can get something that would be suitable for IC work at that level.

>> No.1752752

>>1752751
IC work is more about practice then the iron

Anything from Weller or Hakko you couldn't go wrong

Look for around a 25 - 30 watt iron with changeable tips

>> No.1752759

>>1752752
Thanks brah.
I was at Radio Shack earlier this week and it struck me that if I wanted to buy one I had no idea what to look for.

>> No.1752789

>>1752759
No problem


and for the love of god practice on junk before jumping in

>> No.1752790

So just today I won the auction for a PC Engine Duo-R from YJA for a very nice price. System works, comes with a multitap and two controllers (the original Duo-R controller as well as an Avenue 6 Pad), it has some yellowing which I'm going to see if it just scrubs off or I'm going to need to attempt to make retrobrite for the first time.

What I'm a bit more scared about are the capacitors. I've seen some horror stories with the TurboDuo/PC Engine Duo. I've seen how bad the traces can be eaten by the electrolytic fluid and I cringe. From what I've read the Duo-R and RX have much higher quality capacitors, so is this something I have to worry about?

The only reason I ask is because there are 71 capacitors listed in this wiki (http://console5.com/wiki/PC_Engine_Duo-R)), and there are a number of them that are surface mount caps, which from my experience with GameGears are a huge pain to pull up, and very easy to pull a trace up.

tl;dr waiting for PC Engine Duo-R to come, should I be worried about the capacitors? Do I need to replace them all?

>> No.1752792

>>1752790
For such a specialized system it might be prudent to get a meeter and test each cap to see how they're holding up

>> No.1752815

>>1752792
well, i'm more concerned with leaking caps, the idea of having to scrape away at a trace to solder to isn't something I really want to do.

>> No.1752820

>>1752815
I know that.

You'll be able to tell what caps need replacing and might be at risk of leaking.

>> No.1753176

I just replaced the 72 pin connector on my NES because i was getting a flashing red light whenever i put a game in. Now im getting a white screen even if a game isnt in the system. Sometime though if i push some carts down a certain way without the cart tray in the system it will work.
Any ideas on what could cause this? I have cleaned the contacts on the motherboard and connector already just to make sure they didnt cause it.

>> No.1753241

So, I pulled my Famicom out of storage that worked perfectly fine the day before I put it away and found that it gave me the dreaded white screen of cleaning. I cleaned the actual cartridge slot and the connectors on the game rather thoroughly, but nothing has changed. Everywhere I look on the internet it seems like this is supposed to be the end-all to this problem but I have no clue why it started doing this in the first place and why it continues. Is it time to look for a new Famicom, /vr/?

>> No.1753252

>>1753241
Hmm, doing a bit of the wiggling thing has given me a few different weird colors; blue, a lighter blue and a really light green. Are these signs that it's still just really fucking dirty?

>> No.1754374

>>1753176
The replacement connectors are really cheap. You should have refurbished the Nintendo brand one and keep that one clean

>> No.1755405

>>1754374
I just stuck the old one back in and it works sometimes if i push the game to the right. Whats the best way to refurbish these things?