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>> No.4306372 [View]
File: 90 KB, 648x364, H-Stat_small.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4306372

>>4306045
The service manual is on Shmups, but i've uploaded it it here for you - https://my.mixtape.moe/unlasm.pdf

Also google the service manual for the PVM-2730QM - same set for EU and Aus. Those two manuals cover most revisions of the set, ones with S-Video and without, and with SCART or the weird-ass D25 connector on the US 2530. I think you can still get SCART adapters for those, in fact your images look like you're using RGB. If not, try to get S-video at least, it’s tons better than composite.

There is no OSD. 10 screws around the back of the case release the shell. Size, position and geometry adjustments are limited to pots on the D & D2 boards. Bias is two pots on the C board, gain is two on the B board. Convergence is D3 and the H-stat - the latter being the fat red resin block with the knob on it that sits between the flyback and the Anode cap. Pic related. The adjustments are labelled. A thin flat-bladed screwdriver will fit through the holes from the reverse side of the boards, so you never have to move them. Get an insulated one, because you have to make the adjustments while the set is on. Read the service manual to figure out what you want to play with, and in particular, what order to do the convergence adjustments in - these are pretty good, but can't fix things if the rings around the neck are in the wrong spots, which is a whole other bag.

If the HV is arcing or crackling around the red resin block, be careful. And the B+ is exposed in a few spots, but if you don't try to touch the boards with metal or your hands while the set is running, you'll be fine. Do it one handed and only lean on the plastic casing around the tube at the front, if you have to.

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