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/vr/ - Retro Games

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>> No.5728683 [View]
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5728683

>>5727735
Here's a link, ignore where it's from, I don't want to lose my 4chan street cred: https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/56pw7c/how_to_make_diy_scart_to_bnc_breakout_cables_for/

Some posts in there give a sort of tutorial and links to the monoprice.

>> No.5501601 [View]
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5501601

>>5496770
In time you'll grow to not like the pvm for gaming and use it only to watch old movies, tv shows and anime. You'll learn that large consumer tvs are much better for playing games. They look better and you can sit across the room.

So yeah, you screwed up in a way, but you won't realize it for about a year, then you'll kick yourself for letting that 36" Toshiba, Mitsubishi, or Sony pass you by.

>> No.5447035 [View]
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5447035

>>5443787

Let me preface this by saying in all honestly a large 29" or bigger consumer CRT with component is much better for gaming. PVMs are like a 9/10 high maintenance women, looks impressive to friends but a 7/10 can fuck just as well, less drama/stress and probably also knows how to cook.

13" "broken" bvm for $90 shipped. When turned on an "overload" light and shutdown. This means brightness and contrast were cranked up too high and the built in protection was tripping. I got it, opened it (no key so had to take off the bezel), adjusted the pots and it's worked perfectly. Literally it wasn't adjusted was the only thing wrong.

9" pvm with RGB (some don't have) for $35 shipped because it was "parts or repair only." It wasn't broken, just it didn't display "static" when turned on, though the power light worked. Basically the seller was dumb and thought a PVM had a tuner built in, also the black levels are so good that you can't tell it's on.

20" medical PVM with utterly flawless geometry and all the "splash guarding" for the knobs. This one cost a lot, $600 shipped. I feel I overpaid for this, but it's a very nice set with an extra card installed, so it's a little better deal than would first appear. No ragrets.

The 20" (UPS) arrived perfectly, boxed surrounded with foam, then that box was boxed in another box filled with foam. This is the best way short of freight and pallets. 13" came in double boxed but it was a lightweight used outer box. The box was exploded (FedEX) with the rack mount bracket poking through the inner box. The rack mount ear was bent, but easily fixed. This one scared me as the outer box looked literally exploded but it didn't really hurt anything.

9" was covered in cardboard and boxed in a sturdy box with packing peanuts, it was in the same state as me so minimal shipping, gas was higher than shipping. No damage. 9" is too small to effectively game on but it's small enough that it is probably the best for shipping.

>> No.5103252 [View]
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5103252

>>5102190
I honestly don't remember. It was my first and only playthrough, I was off work for a few days so I just played the hell out of it then. I don't remember much about the game, it was probably 2 years ago but I do remember learning about having power ups right before the end (went in blind without manual or anything), so I ended up using basically everything I had.

>> No.4918884 [View]
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4918884

>>4909924
>if the image looks fine to me, should i even bother messing with it.

No. It's a rabbit hole. If it looks good, just use it. It's easy to fuck things up, so if you do, make sure your write down all settings that came from the factory.

>>4912009
>Audio Technica LP120 is the way to go
This is sound advice. Honestly it's a great unit for the price. I got a different stylus for mine, shure brand but I forgot the model.

>> No.4726017 [View]
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4726017

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