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/vr/ - Retro Games

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>> No.3814154 [View]

>>3813971
You can test caps with a multimeter sure but there's a few issues with doing that. Most multimeters can't test the cap's capacitance under proper load. You'll get a general idea if the thing is totally shot but edge cases might be missed. Second, you'll have to remove the caps from their circuit to test them properly, which is time consuming. It's often better to replace all caps if you're replacing one, which is why recap kits exist.

I'll be putting together kits for monitors on my store, when it opens.

>> No.3813775 [View]

>>3813550
Very likely some passive components are failing. Your signal processing looks fine, so probably not anything on the B boards. That leaves G and D in my opinion. Worst case scenario the flyback transformer needs to be replaced, but that's not the first thing I would work on to be honest. The nice, slow fading makes me suspicious of capacitors, both electrolytic and film.

>> No.3813514 [View]

>>3813358
Oh lord 8c has its own /vr/? I need to see the depth of this depravity for myself.

>> No.3813298 [View]

>>3812874
>CRT discord
I missed that somehow.

>> No.3812131 [View]

>>3811972
Open it up and look at the sticker on the tube. It should have a model number you can google.

>> No.3811970 [View]

>>3811959
Do it faggot.

Can I have your stuff?

>> No.3811783 [View]

>>3811617
Classic S curve geometry issue. I'm surprised there wasn't something in the service menu for it.

>> No.3810704 [View]

>>3810645
I kinda doubt they're actually there. I think these warehouses are full of consumer sets and very few pro ones. I do want to go take a look though.

>> No.3810698 [View]

>>3810570
Well if you have the time and wherewithal to recap it, then it's time to head over to Mouser or Digikey and start putting together a parts list. If you'd rather sell it off and move on, that's totally rational. You could try finding a TV repair guy but good luck getting one old enough who knows what he's doing.

I'll probably start offering cap kits for PVMs and BVMs on my store whenever it opens. I just made a list for the deflection boards (D, D1) in PVM 20L5s and 14L5s (very similar guts) but haven't had the chance to order it and test it.

>> No.3810617 [View]

>>3810608
Sounds good to me, I'll go take a look. My current iron is a X-Tronic 3010. I've been meaning to pick up a small hot air gun (I have a large one, but it's very unfocused) and a desoldering gun.

>> No.3810526 [View]

>>3810449
If I remember correctly, the legs on the NES PPU are fat fuckers. I've seen folks install sockets and it looks pretty doable if you're decent at soldering and don't go nuts.

>>3810442
Depends on who's buying. A smart guy with the skills to bring it back to life might pay like $20 max for a actually busted PVM. I'm probably going to pick up a big old 20 inch Sony HTM for free because the power supply is "shot" which is code for "it don't turn on no more and I ain't got no idear why."

>> No.3810435 [View]

>>3810384
Like >>3810417 says, it's actually relatively easy. You can use a solder pump (cheap, works well), a desoldering gun (not cheap, works really well) or desoldering braid (really cheap, doesn't work perfectly). Just be careful to keep from exposing the PPU to too much heat for too long. Only enough to liquify the solder and remove it, no more.

>> No.3810427 [View]

>>3810426
Got posted twice on reddit. I kinda want to take a trip to one of these warehouses for video.

>> No.3810364 [View]

>>3810275
Could be a number of issues. The absolute worst case scenario is the tube dying. The only temporary solution for that is a rejuvenation. I hope that's not your issue. I hope your problem is something less dire, like cabling/connectivity issues or even caps drying out on the signal processing board(s). What model PVMotherfucker do you have? You're using the RGB/Component inputs, right? Have you tried other sources?

>> No.3810165 [View]

>>3809961
I'm hoping it's all in Canada bucks.

>> No.3809756 [View]

>>3809742
Guy just loves him some big, fat, uncultured consumer Cathode Ray Tubes. No appreciation for Production Video Monitors of color, I tell you waht.

>> No.3809551 [View]

>>3809494
Someone took their time to write a coherent post describing their reason for being here? Grab your cross and nails, boys. It's time for a crucifixion!

>> No.3809496 [View]

>>3809367
>gatorland
Fuck yeah I bleed orange and blue.

/r/crtgaming is okay but I prefer these threads.

>> No.3808810 [View]

>>3808801
There's a guy who works at GameSpot who's gotten into PVMs and might have one for sale. You need to integrate yourself into the hipster scene.

Or I'll ship you one but it's kinda expensive. Funny thing is I get a lot of my monitors from LA and NY.

>> No.3808753 [View]

>>3808691
Where's here?

Also, anyone got hot ideas for a CRT shop domain name?

>> No.3808512 [View]

>>3808454
Without additional filters and sitting within a few feet of the monitor? Yes. Further than a few feet away and using any type or blur filter: no.

But it's comfy bro.

>> No.3807926 [View]

In case anyone else is interested, here's my list of caps for recapping the D and D1 boards (deflection boards) for Sony PVM-14L5s. This might also be mostly accurate for PVM-20L5s, since the parts list is largely shared between the two.

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=a316f47620

About $35 total. This is only the electrolytic caps, not the film caps or anything else on the boards. I'm mostly confident the film caps on my board are good, but I'll probably desolder them and test their capacitance anyhow just to be sure. Film caps are a pain to find matches for.

>> No.3806620 [View]

>>3806616
Sure but you're going to want a very specific output board because HDMI isn't going to fly with any CRT you buy.

>> No.3806129 [View]

>>3806107
>doesn't trust auto-termination

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