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/tg/ - Traditional Games

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[ERROR] No.77113778 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Thinking that memes = humour edition.

>WIP Condensed OP Pastebin

>Grimdark Compendium tutorials

>Making some awesome banners

>Recasting with Blue Stuff and LEGO bricks

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints

>Learn to paint with an unlicensed doctor

>Blast The Witch

>WIP Secret Santa 2020 Album

>Previous Threads

>> No.77113842

first for unimpressive GK

>> No.77113889

Working on some stuff for Defiance. I dunno if contrast was a good choice.

>> No.77114310

WTB TSons conversion inspiration.

>> No.77114406

Do you sub-assembly your Marines?

>> No.77114494

Getting into converting for the first time after a couple years of painting. What drill do you guys recommend? Is the top one on amazon any good?

>> No.77114588

I have this exact model and it's fine. The different drills allow you to ajdust to anything I encountered, really.

>> No.77114616

No but I should

>> No.77115352

My boy got big

>> No.77115362


>> No.77115590

Rosie the burger is done

>> No.77115596


>> No.77115610

Still working on Margot, but I started slapping some paint on Duroc

>> No.77115628

When using it by itself or when mixing with green stuff, should I be using white or yellow milliput for details on miniatures?

>> No.77115632

nice work dude, the skin looking smooth as fuck

>> No.77115646

Any recipe/advice for your skin ?

>> No.77115723

Acquired several thousand points of Necrons recently that were painted in a very VERY basic style. I'm currently working on cleaning them up and giving the whole orange glow thing a bit more oomph.

>> No.77115733

Thanks, homie

I mostly used Vallejo Game Color Rosy Flesh, and Model Color Basic Skintone. A tiny miniscule bit of Cavalry Brown for the shadows like under the nose, brows, and lips.

>> No.77116163

Finally finished my first mini, learned a lot. Thanks, lads.
He was supposed to be a Storm Warden to test what metalics felt like, so his name is Wild Eye Willy.
his left eye was the pen method, his right was five failed coats because i remembered it was a random fine point pen in my drawer but not nearly small enough

>> No.77116186

Any aussies have any experience with SMS paints? I've heard good things but have never tried them

>> No.77116193

Any tips on how to wet blend colours? Im kinda teaching myself on this king tiger my friendo got me for christmas, i really want the camo to have depth and richness. Pic related is my first attempt

>> No.77116197

and this is the first time seeing the image zoomed in, now I'm not nearly as proud of it as I was

>> No.77116201

Heres the other side that hasnt been blended yet for reference, im gonna do that bit next

>> No.77116216

Sorry that photo is a lil zoomed out, heres a better pic of the blend. How do i get it 100% smooth? Ive never done this before really

>> No.77116229

I've heard a couple painting channels big em up but no personal experience, no.

>> No.77116458

>cavalry brown for skin shadows

hell yeah that's the stuff brother

>> No.77116685

Looks good for your first mini mate. You will improve a lot over time this is a great first step.
I feel the metallic legs dont work as an effect and need another colour to break them up, would be my only suggestion.

>> No.77116706

>be really proud of mini
>take photo
>looks like shit

I know that feeling too well.
It's your first mini? Looks awesome for a start. Put him down and start a new one.

>> No.77116776

Is Vahallan Winter still produced?

>> No.77116822

Almost finished with skelly

>> No.77116831

And the back

>> No.77116922


My bad, Valhallan Blizzard

>> No.77117137

Getting back into painting after 6 or 7 years re-doing all my old marines. Pretty happy with how this blood angel capt is turning out. Trying to mesh the classic rogue trader scheme with grimdark elements

>> No.77117439


looks good, you're already way better than when I got back into the hobby after a break

>> No.77117517

Finished this guy, the last of the heroes

Well done, gw does some great skeletons, I love that guys whole set.

>> No.77117631

Need help here as hovercraft is now done I need to finish this trukk, and I am not sure what front bit to do? Any suggestions as I will try to give it more spikes and plates later, maybe mount a gun in the back too

>> No.77117715

It's on the webstore, so probably yes. However its a fantastic material that doesnt have a lot of replacements so expect it to be canned and fetch $50 a pot on Ebay a year from now.

Everything looks like ass when you really magnify it smoothly. I took some pics with my D800 and holy fuck it shook my belief in painting. Dust specs and individual single flecks of metallic that found their way onto black were suddenly visible.

>> No.77117955

Cyber Beauty dress initial work is done. Never worked on 75mm scale so I am a bit in the dark regarding highlight placement. Does it look right?

>> No.77118370

working on a Weirdboy for my 40K orks, I'm playing Blood Axes so I want to paint his robes some outlandish camouflage pattern.

Any recommendations on what which type of camouflage (desert, orange-ish, forest, urban etc.) would contrast well with the skin and be suitably strange for a Weirdboy? I have been peeking at the camouflage patterns from the old Ali G movie, but those seem a bit too tricky and busy to pull off.

>> No.77119354

Still chipping away at katakros, did some progress before work. Satisfied with the sash, any critique?

>> No.77120241

Salamanders Dreadnought, the Hammer is from the gk baby carrier

>> No.77120363

Another view,

that thing really was a bitch to assemble, really wish there were more weapon options for the redemptor desu ( why no incidium cannon?? )

>> No.77120558

Max from switzerland.
This is your replacement secret santa. Took a while but your gift is on the way. Ill send tracking number to gobo but I'm not sure if he's still checking it.

>> No.77120559


>> No.77120597

Have the side doors open with platforms extending out from the floor held in place with ropes or chains...then you can balance orks on either side and give it a more road warrior feel. Maybe a little wooden birds nest on the roof for a boy to shoot from. The front could be a rolling pin with spikes? Just need a round bottle or something attached with plastic and then add little triangle spikes.
Add scythes/spears to the wheels

>> No.77120679

Something with orange sounds good, what about some kind of flecktarn? Pic related is tibetarn. (I suggest as I love these camos and the fact the bundeswehr has kept it for so long is cool)

>> No.77120699

Got distracted from progressing stuff I actually need to paint and started converting a Tzeentch daemonprince. Need some wings...

>> No.77120711

Yeah, using some rona bux to finally get into 40k.
Since the wash was my final step, I'll only fix the spots I missed that and leave the others. I got two more Primaris to test my gun metal gray and greens on before deciding on how I want to assemble my first-born tactical kit. Wasn't a fan of the large chunks of silver either, so I'm gonna work on dry brushing and highlights.

>> No.77120896

Doesn't really read as a daemon prince to me.

>> No.77120955

I can't do insides because of the frankly poor structure of it and no way to build inside bit, and no bits to speak off, so saddly first offer is no go. I like other bits however.

>> No.77121030

from what I understand one pretty obscure camo pattern was south african giraffe skin.
But GW has been making up patterns themselves for ages now, just flip through the IG codecies and you'll find some interesting color combiantions.

>and the fact the bundeswehr has kept it for so long is cool)
It's really good. Perfect for the kind of woodlands and forests you get in Germany.

>> No.77121044

That's OK.

>> No.77121103

>Hey, what's that moving in the bush!?
>Oh, never mind, it's just one of those short giraffes

>> No.77121398

>literally a giraffe

>> No.77121435

please continue doing the work of the emperor, without you the xeno scum win

>> No.77121574

Whatever you pick, make sure it does not match your basing.

Anyways, you could look at Dazzle camouflage of old ships.

But overall my recommendation is that you do big blocky geometric patterns and sometimes garish colors, a favorite of mine was to do a light blue base tone, dark blue-gray triangles, and then some white and black circles.

If in doubt and painting many orks, just paint an olive green or a khaki solid color without a pattern.

>> No.77121631

>Lay down texture paint (AK's Light Earth)
>I don't like the color at all, I don't think it'll look as good as I wanted or the right color
>Lay down a wash color
>This is still not looking good or what I wanted
>The shading is too dark for what I intended
>Let it dry
>Drybrush over it.
>Well what do you know? It turned out exactly how I wanting.

Forgot to add some rocks though. Whoops.

>> No.77121643

to be fair those patterns are not arbitrary. Animals evolve to survive in their chosen environments, but picking a Giraffe was a bit of an odd choice.

>> No.77121699

Took me a minute. Yeah I know but Giraffe is not that aesthetic. Reminds me of the abomination that is current US camouflage. Bleurgh.

>> No.77121789

It's just a bit on the nose to go for straight up Giraffe print. The Chinese flecktarn a bit higher up uses a similar palette, just in a bit more of a subdued way

>> No.77121823

A blocky acupat might look good and contrast with the rest of the model.
Dazzle camo would be cool

>> No.77121943

Apple Valley, MN anon, I put your replacement Secret Santa package in the mail this morning.

>> No.77121950

You could also try https://www.camopedia.org/index.php?title=Main_Page, it can be a bit much to page through but it's fairly extensive and some of the emergency services camo is pretty out there

>> No.77121981


>> No.77122003

and this

>> No.77122077

>those mordians
B-by the e-emperor...

>> No.77122102

Bottom left 31st Harakoni is aesthetic af.
Thanks for the images.

>> No.77122169

Cheers, mate. I can also dump the 3ed line drawings if anyone wants inspiration for nonstandard Guard lines.

>> No.77122271

I need to add a bit of oxide on the brass parts and then it's done. I'm thinking of adding some light dust effect on the cloaks but I'm scared of fucking up the transition I worked so hard on

>> No.77122616

>> No.77122761

how well would it work to mix the giant squig from the "Loonboss on cave squig" kit with a plastic Daemon prince?

>> No.77122855

Problebly dumb but I’d love to see it

>> No.77122869


Could do a mouth-torso with it, maybe? It's too large to serve as a head for a Daemon Prince.

>> No.77122961


unless those were reproduced from earlier editions those are from the 5th edtion rulebook

>> No.77123060


>> No.77123184

time to get a decent lamp to work under?

>> No.77123633

Tips for battle damage on black armour?
On a side note, how difficult is it to attach plastic components to resin?

>> No.77123855

Why those colors

>> No.77123856

I think it could work if you place it a bit lower and make it have plenty of jowels/double chins to connect it

>> No.77123943

I wanna paint some NL in this exact shade of blue, I feel like many tutorials out there use a blue that's either too bright or too desaturated.
Does anyone know what would be the closest paints to this shade?

>> No.77123963

Those are from the 3.5 codex. I'm not sure where the stuff from the galleries at the links I posted were form, but I believe they were pre 5e as well (I think a few were from Imperial Armour, and others look to be older than 3e)

>> No.77124000

>Tips for battle damage on black armour?
Try this https://youtu.be/squqI5fQ9kE?t=495

>> No.77124162

Looks like a midnight blue, Kantor blue i think

>> No.77124432

Yeah, just checked my copies of the 5e BRB and IG codex, neither have those images. I'm not sure where you saw them that you thought they were from 5e.

>> No.77124559

after watching alot of videos ive almost finished my first mini, decided to paint shields separate, this a good idea or not? also any tips appreciated.

>> No.77124657

Jesus christ that's really your first mini ever?

It's better than 90% of people who have been painting for a decade. Well done. Nice contrast, nice color scheme, good use of different textures.

>> No.77124687

First flip your photos. Second: you seem to be painting a Tiger II in a lime green and grey camo, maybe don't.

>> No.77124715

I kinda like his camo desu.

>> No.77124737

well i used to paint them when i was a little kid, talking 20 years ago, 0 undercoats, 0 shades, 0 highlighting, just slap on bright colours and go

>> No.77124745

It would look good on a 40k tank perhaps. I wonder where he is going with it.

>> No.77124760

Sub-assemblying is always a good idea, especially shields. That's a very good first attempt. I think that gold you used is a bit too weak to pop, I'd personally go a warmer tone of gold or even brass. Your skulls and horns are a bit too flat, which colours are you using for them?

>> No.77124936

What's your favorite paint brand to run through airbrushes? My stuff starts coming in tomorrow.

>> No.77125154

looks ok to me

>> No.77125177


>> No.77125294

the forgefiend I'm working on
almost finished
can you see, what it's supposed to be?

>> No.77125301

only have 1 pack of game colour paints and shades, using one called bonewhite for base, then a wash called umber wash

>> No.77125406


>> No.77125516


and before you ask, yes, I was inspired by this meme-picture

>> No.77125651

If I were you I'd go with a light brown basecoat (use the same brown you used to highlight the leather parts), a wash and a bone colour heavy drybrush. It's quick and easy and gives skulls and bones a slightly "consumed" look which fits the purpose I think

>> No.77125866

A handsome result for a job well performed.
I hate that class though, his heal killed my reynauld when he needed help the most.

>> No.77126511

A few days ago I posted a side by side comparison of a bones classic figure vs a resculpt of that same figure in bones USA fresh out of their respective packages.
I finally got a chance to prime them both so I did them both up in black and gave them a rough drybrushing to bring out the details.
I did heat the bones classic figure to bend it a bit back into place, although I was not able to find a good pose for the model itself that kept the staff straight without her body bending at an odd angle, but I did no mold line cleaning of any sort in the hopes of the dry brush making them show up a bit more on camera.

>> No.77126517

Night Arrows Big Boy status

Just going to put out some tips if you're working on this guy. You need hot water, and I mean HOT water if you want to get the parts off with any kind of ease. I'd recommend getting a couple of kettles going or actually boiling up water in a big pot. Obviously, don't keep the heat running while he'd be in the water. He doesn't float, and you'd probably melt him to your pot.

The foot ball-and-socket is a BITCH to put back in place if it didn't come out correctly. I had to put the ball pin in the freezer and re-warm the foot to try and get it to work. The 'belt' that goes around the crotch area does come off for easier painting, but you'd better have a heat gun. I didn't, and I damn-near broke the thing trying to separate it. I also screwed up getting the legs separated from the hip, but I'm not going to keep trying with it; I'm just going to mask it off. I tried getting one of the pieces out using the hardest metal object I had at hand, the flash remover, to pry it out. All I ended up doing was gouging a straight line of flesh right out of my finger and scarring the interior plastic, fortunately it won't be visible once reassembled.

Learn from my mistakes.

Next steps:
Mold line cleanup
Adding the Chapter iconography (Southwestern Native American-themed Chapter)

Oh, and the gun does NOT fit the hand. I'm very seriously considering cutting it to fit properly; most of the people I see on Youtube just let it dangle awkwardly off the hand, but it looks stupid in my opinion.

>> No.77126634

Mind the lousy camera, but I got the best picture I could of my Guard paint scheme. Recently learned about isopropyl paint thinning and took the chance to re-paint some childhood-ruined models.

Love that model, nice highlighting on the armour.

>> No.77126637

good enough

>> No.77126664

Fantastic for your first mini. Keep it up and your fellas will only look better.

>> No.77126678


based and Davidpilled, the paintjob looks very solid. What was the base for the rider's model?

>> No.77126694

Rider - based
Horse - pretty good
Base - shit

Pull it off and try again. If you can't get ahold of model scatter, use CHEAP clay cat litter. Or put a few corks from wine bottles into a blender and pulse it until you're happy with the size.

>> No.77126743

post me some images that motivate you

>> No.77126751

1. What's the Night Arrow scheme, I assume it's a chapter
2. Why disassemble?
3d print file, if you google death rider commissar it shows up in images

>> No.77126818


>> No.77126843

Here it is. I posted the Chapter's Johnny a few threads ago. The collage-anon said he'd got him added, but forgot it during the latest collage OP pic.

>Why the weird stripes?

I'm mostly colorblind; what looks like 'gold' to me looks like a weird green to others. If you see those 'stripes', it's supposed to be metallic gold.

>> No.77126865

I like it, orange doesn't get used enough and it looks great

>> No.77126887

I can tell you're colourblind by this paint scheme alone.

>> No.77126934

Oh hush
I like the scheme, but I was asking why you took the model apart

>> No.77126947


Shit, hit the 'post' button early. Sorry about that.

As far as why I'm disassembling him? It's because the rotating joints are very difficult to prime/paint without being disassembled, unless I wanted to glue him into place in a singular pose. And monopose figures are just GW's way of saying 'fuck you, you don't get to convert anything'.

I'm also very much into Gunpla, and common practice in Gunpla is to paint in assembly rather than constructed. It's just a matter of familiarity for me in that regard, apart from the aforementioned ease in painting.

Yep. Case in point? I cannot read what's in this image. I had to be told.

>> No.77126963

liking that guard

>> No.77127066

base was made from vallejo pigments Burnt umber+ mat medium

>> No.77127083


>> No.77127092

I didn't realize how much customization I'm afforded in my 40k tactical squad kit. Do you guys clip, clean, and prime all the parts and put what you don't use in a box, or leave what you aren't going to use on the sprue?
Just primed some other minis and waiting for them to dry, so I'm not exactly in a rush. Just wondering what /wip/'s habits are.

>> No.77127167

I'd clip them off the sprue for the sake of compactness, but I wouldn't do anything besides that, because I never knew whether I'd use the parts for basing material or weird conversions.

>> No.77127194

I was gathering up every Ork bomb (bomm?) I could find this morning and happened upon a box of Storm Boyz still wrapped. Snatched them off the shelf and got stupid with 'em.

This might be the Orkiest thing I've ever done.

>> No.77127215

>> No.77127258

now dats finkin wiv yer bonce

>> No.77127280


>> No.77127302

I'm sure if someone could colour adjust the sceme it would look better but as of now the colours clash pretty hard. Might be an eyesore if it's translated to actual models

>> No.77127338


>> No.77127364

The Lords of Flavortown. Burning heretics, but never their porkchops!

>> No.77127367

Why, thank you. I figure its the same Bommer stats, but a far wackier look.

>> No.77127423

it's the OG scheme of the Legion of the Damned.

>> No.77127572

Looks pretty different. Not sure what colourblindes may be at play.

>> No.77127763

See, to my eyes, that looks poop brown with a lighter shade of trim.

>> No.77127863

>poop that dark
Bro, you need to cut back on the coffee

>> No.77128182

Black is boring

>> No.77128240

Practice will teach you a fair amount, but you are on the right path & that looks beyond tabletop ready.
My tip would be look at painting capes next, and be careful with flesh (if you have any, WoC are pretty safe)

>> No.77128272

Hey guys, how are these Orkz looking? Would appreciate some CnC and opinions on what would be good colors for the straps/boots and the tabards!


>> No.77128285


>> No.77128392

>tfw planning on hoarding empty sprues "just in case"
guess i'll just leave it on the sprues then, my clippers aren't that sharp so i might have a new pair by the time i want to kit bash

>> No.77128553

Hey, my SS came in!! Thanks lurker anon! Super hyper for the models, especially the wood elf hero. Love them classics.

>> No.77128589

And going off the letter you wrote, didja order something from GeeDubs as well? Or have you heard of new models coming out soon or something?

>> No.77128592

I usually clip and trim them then put them in a baggie of extra bits based on whether they're infantry or vehicle bits. Probably gonna change that up and have a better means of storage at some point, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

>> No.77128711

This thing was a real bitch to strip. Did not help the previous owner caked this thing in paint 3 times, without striping it between. From my excavation I found out that he went from blood angels to imperial fist and then settled on white scars. This will have to do, I gibe up.

>> No.77128763

What did you use to strip it?

>> No.77128779

Not gonna lie, from the thumbnail I thought, "Damn that's some good weathering."

>> No.77128784

Looks sweet! It's like a final boss version of a gryph hound.

>> No.77128818

Denaturated alcohol

>> No.77128883

Result look good for the many paint layers it had. No molten plastic anywhere?

>> No.77129015

Nope, the denaturated alcohol I used has little to no metanol in it, I'm no chemist but I assume thats what can cause the plastic to melt. Used this >>77128818 old faithful for a decade and never had anything melt.

>> No.77129045

Cool, will get some myself then. Thanks!

>> No.77129276

when doing a pool of water in terrain, how fo i get the water to have slight color rather than be perfectly clear?

>> No.77129369

depends on what product you use. You cannot just mix acrylic paints or inks into any resin, buy you can mix them with acrylic based products, like a gloss gel medium (like the GW effect paint) or Vallejo Still Water or acrylic gloss varnish.

If you got an epoxy you may have to get alcohol inks or something like that, but it depends on what product you intend to use. Always read the instructions on what you buy.

>> No.77129438

Put an ink wash over the zenithaled cyberrat to define all the hard edges in the lit sections, but it feels like I'm just stalling.
Does anyone have any advice on the colours I should apply to the fur and skin? Albino schemes are overdone, but I'm not sure what kinds of colours would go well with dark metals I'm intending to use on the armour and the equipment.

>> No.77129570

I believe it does melt resin though, just a heads up.

>> No.77129636

Not him but fair lol. I like it, even if it doesn't read as a prince exactly to me either. I'd put a pair of arms on it from the thaumaturge.

>> No.77129662

Capybara yellow-brown. That way he pops against the dark armor without it being the same-old grey/white.

>> No.77129690

Just finished some Roman Hastati, how do they look

>> No.77129694

Margot progress tonight

>> No.77129711


>> No.77129738

And some phalangites

>> No.77129858

I cannot read the word hastati without being reminded of how it sounds in Rome TW

That being said , those models are patrician AF, what kid is that ?

>> No.77129890

Victrix Rome's Latin allied legions, you can make principes, hastati, extraordenarii, rorari, and triarii, 60 models in the box it's amazing

>> No.77129916

Meant kit not kid , fucking hell I cant type

>> No.77129927

After fucking forever I finally finished the Forgefiend, this is my first mini for my new CSM detachment for DG

>> No.77129946


>> No.77129992

This doesn't read like Nurgle to me in the slightest, which is kind of a shame. Paintjob's a good one, though.

>> No.77130050

I know, but I didn't want to paint another army or detachment as green or black (CSM), I just wanted to use my snow and ended up with a kinda white/bone scheme.

Choosing a scheme is the most difficult part for me.

>> No.77130065

And here is the back.

>> No.77130111

A scheme isn't the same as a theme. The pre-HH DG scheme and the Pallid Hand warband is basically what you've got, which it works wonderfully. Just saying that you could've weathered it a bit, add some DG iconography, do minor kitbashes and the like so it actually reads as a DG model.

>> No.77130129

If superglue got onto my model in the wrong place and I didn't realize until I was almost finished, how the fuck do I correct it? Apparently when I put the branches on my Huntsmaster some of the superglue went through the branches and down into his left eye socket.
Do I need to cut off his head to fix this?
Also excuse the mess, I kind of lost motivation to clean him up before posting until I figure this out.

>> No.77130147


>> No.77130169

I get you, I'll probably end up using them as solo CSM anyways, new rules are trying to get rid of soup. But anyways, thanks for the tips.

>> No.77130297

So something like this? I really like the suggestion anon, thank you.
It's also a bit of a reversal in tertiary flesh tones as well, given most rats and mice have lighter noses/skin compared to their fur, while the capybara has dark tertiary colours.

>> No.77130326

thats a huge ass guinea pig

>> No.77130830

I just want to make 160 axe attacks.

>> No.77131045

working my way through some 3d printed dwarfy bois

these guys are an absolute joy to paint, possibly because they're hand sculpted and not covered in absurd amounts of unnessesary detail.

also has my first go with Vallejo metal colour on this guy. having used citadel and p3 gunmetals for so long these paints feel like an apithany. The steel caps on the boots aren't even washed or highlighted and it was over a fucking white undercoat.

>> No.77131096

Aye up Faggots.

Painted these two tonight as they struck me and I couldn't stop until it was done.

Let me know what you think.

>> No.77132805

Nothing to contribute.

>> No.77133026


>> No.77133081

I'm kinda curious about what that thing would taste like. Probably gamey.

>> No.77133111

Brief googling implies "pork"

>> No.77133202

Nice, what did you use for the gold armour?

>> No.77133213

Looks great

>> No.77133295

More progress, dropped the purple cause it looked like SHIT.

>> No.77133304

And the back.

>> No.77133405


>> No.77133415

Fukin nice dude

>> No.77133427


>> No.77133486

>First mini
>Eyebrows and eyes

Very good.

>> No.77133495

>Historical autism
>in wip

This is why I used to bully you off tables to play our fantasy games anon, you autistic freaks need to chill or shut the fuck up.

>> No.77133832

where's my Dawn of War soundboard

>> No.77133946

Air intakes that double as flamethrowers and a double big shootas in the back. Maybe a cow-plow prow as well. Run it as a buggy, or one of the nu-buggies.

>> No.77134285

>> No.77134349

These just look like they're basecoated. They're sorely in need of some highlights and shadows to give them more definition. I can see you did a little highlighting on the pants on the asses, but that vast expanse of yellow is a boring undifferentiated undefined mass, and the metal is also very plain.

Awesome. The OSL is subtle and nice. The highlights are a little start without much blending, but perfectly good for a gaming standard - I bet they look fantastic from any normal distance. The basing is simple but classy, and fits the subject perfectly. The finish is shinier than I prefer - gloss varnish? Maybe hit them with a layer of matte varnish to dull them back down.

Very cool. Did you read that how-to-paint gems infographic and decide to try the star sapphire? It looks good.

>> No.77134720

my friend who does car models lioves them, im wanting to try them soon

>> No.77135124


Love the blue, really pops.

>> No.77135168

Working on the cloak for the chief librarian.

>> No.77135189

Please stop making me coom

>> No.77135372


>> No.77135400


>> No.77135449


Really nice job, you should feel proud. I am debating airbrushing all my cloaks when I get to it, but idk. feels like cheating.

>> No.77135482

Thanks, I'm doing it with a brush to learn how to blend properly. If you don't need the practice then I see no reason not to just use an airbrush.

>> No.77135518

>> No.77135590


J...Jackie??? What's this from? Is there others??

>> No.77135656

thanks for the pointers guys, started out with a nice orange and brown Flecktarn inspired pattern. I'm honestly pretty happy at how it looks currently, so I'm not sure whether I want to push it further with added smaller dots.

>> No.77135778

That's pretty good, but don't forget about the base, that needs some love too.

>> No.77135810

I honestly can't think of a better way to deploy storm boyz, fucking hell.

>> No.77136415

Just finished this kitbash

>> No.77136683

Even the grinning ork skulls approve.

>> No.77136825


>> No.77136897

It al fits nicely, but the pose looks very childlike to me. I think that has to do with his akward squat and arm position.

>> No.77136981

Lads, I'm hungover and just want some comfy small channels to watch.

People like Scruffy Crow or Hapsburger Donkey, these channels can he hard to find when they get like 300 views and have as many subs.

>> No.77137079

this is not the youtube general. Make a new thread if you want to talk about YT, but keep it out of here.

>> No.77137268

Working on the trukk/buggy continues

>> No.77137296

Rude freak

>> No.77137322

it's rude to derail a thread with off topic shit.

>> No.77137350

3D printed

>> No.77137375

>been working on taking the normal demon prince kit and making it nurgly
>decide I want to make it a "lesser unclean one"
Milliput dwindling fast friends. By the end there may be no gw plastic left

>> No.77137477

Do you use filler?

>> No.77138130

looks too big from this angle, but at the same time, the legs look tiny even if you disregard the 'uge 'ead

see pic related

>> No.77138604

this is cool as fuck

>> No.77138619

Beats my Battle for Skull Pass miners.

>> No.77138674

almost finished with these

>> No.77138697

I am planning on converting this into a nicer-looking Chaos Lord, with removal of some parts and adding one a few others. Pondering on what to do as an alternate head if I do switch that out, as well as the arm. Maybe it can be run as a sorcerer too/instead?

Is the idea good? Any tips or ides to run with it?

>> No.77138713

Yeah, it's really well done but needs more gross bio stuff to really say "nurgle" beyond the rusty trim.

>> No.77138783

I've seen a few shots of wips of this mini without the cloak and the legs look RIDICULOUS without it due to the absurd top-heaviness of the sculpt and spindly terminator thighs.

>> No.77138810

picrel "keep on truckin'"

>> No.77138861

I feel like the legs could be "bloated out" with greenstuff or such if that would be the case, thought you are right in that it looks a little barren. The fact that the stomach looked almost "stapled on" doesn't help it a lot either, sadly.

Good color scheme on yours though, really diggin' that brass

>> No.77138890

I just stole the example from instagram, can't take credit. Stomach bothers me too, in general I think it's got a lot of questionable sculpting

>> No.77138935

I don't disagree, but there has to be some way of salvaging it, I'm certain!

>> No.77139184

I think shortening the legs could help, or doing some sort of slug lower torso instead of legs, or maybe even leaning into the weird insectile gangliness and lengthening the arms to match.

>> No.77139244

>slug lower torso
hmm, I do have a spare Beast of nurgle which it may work with, but then he'd be much, much larger than a chaos lord.

>> No.77139287

>>77129276 here,

one more question:

i want to make a small stagnant pool of water with epoxy resin.

how would i go about making this liquid not crystal clear? i have primarily acrylics and citadel washes at my disposal.

could i get away with heavily washing the bottom of the pool (before pouring) with greens and browns, then pouring the resin, then hitting above with a gloss wash combination? or is there a better way?

thank you for the information!

>> No.77139316

Got a lightbox as a gift for the holidays. Seems to help with the issue I've had of colors getting blown out when taking photos of minis just on my desk.

Finished this scratchbuilt skrapjet project, finally - barring a base for the thing, will have to corral a friend with a 3d printer into printing one of the buggy bases for it since GW doesn't sell them and all the 3rd party ones I find online are either super sketchy looking sites or MDF which I'm not a fan of.

>> No.77139317

That's the thing tho most NL tutorials use kantor blue which is dark but not very saturated

>> No.77139373

I think I found the color I want is Necron Abyss which GW doesn't make anymore, looking around online for an equivalent people recommend various vallejo colors but it's hard to find pictures of those on models to confirm which one is the closest

>> No.77139438

Painting Skeletons is fun but the purple looks like trash. What colour do I paint the shields?

>> No.77139601

Depends on how open the model is, but I usually do anyway because it's easier on my hands, which aren't the smallest I'll admit.

>> No.77139705

Finished up my freebootas and got started on some bad moonz

>> No.77139730

any advice on highlighting camouflage? Washes dont quite get the job done

>> No.77140351

>any advice
maybe open any link in the op before asking for advice ya?

>> No.77140817

Anyone know what kind of paint can give my Tyranids this kind of color?

>> No.77141343

those colour shift paints from green stuff world would probably work

>> No.77141366

I was thinking of doing this too! I think a loincloth would really help make him look less top-heavy

>> No.77141432

Pumpkin muscles
Ink over TMM with airbrush can also get that result

>> No.77141616

Rounding out this box for Ramah task force. I know they arnt considered the best in game, but the models look really cool.

>> No.77141675

Lizardman roundup wip army shot. How are we doing guys?

>> No.77141682

i have a 2 part epoxy resin,
thank you >>77129369, just bought alcohol inks. will post results later!

>> No.77141709

They are actually pretty decent in N4 now, or so I have been told

>> No.77141746

loincloths and other things like it can help with that
example being this mini that I commissioned ages ago from scripty

>> No.77141788

Heres some detail. Not sure if they'll all be bloody yet.

>> No.77141807


The models look pretty meh, but the way you've done them makes them cool.

>> No.77141819

Looks nice. I think the gun on the mid-left guy is a bit rough and sketchy compared to the rest.

>> No.77141828

Seconded on colorshift.

>> No.77142096


Totally accurate, it was actually the he first of the 4 I did after a lengthy painting hiatus. Unfortunately I also got some superglue on it too, and that made it look a bit rough on top of that.

>> No.77142107

Fuck citadel pots. Paint droppers master race

>> No.77142288

>didn't shake a paint+primer nearly long enough
>my boys came out fuzzy
>got a rustoleum 2x matte primer
>put a thin coat on correctly
For any other newfriends who still haven't gotten used to spray primer, as long as you can keep it to thin coats you can fix mistakes. I don't think I lost too much detail on him.

>> No.77142363

Colonel Autumn mostly done. Trying to get better at painting quickly so some day I might actually finish this backlog.

>> No.77142628

This makes me remember how much I hate zenithals. Don't get me wrong, they are great, but I just can't live with the knowledge that what I end up doing will look worse than what I started out with. It's either glaze it and end up with shitty desaturated shadows, or paint the whole thing and make it look bad again. Art is pain.

>> No.77142673

metallics on nids don't actually look that good imo

>> No.77142786

Really? Are there any pics online of nids painted with color changing stuff?

>> No.77142804

i'm not too big a fan unhelmeted space marines right now, so he was my sacrificial model to test my basic skills

>> No.77142812

Keen to see progress on its skintones

>> No.77142826

Heres one I found

>> No.77142869

I too feel the whole zentithal highlight just gets painted over. I do think it helps my process, and of course it's required for contrast paints, but it's really a shame there isn't a better way to simply keep the levels.

>> No.77142889

The blades look bad but everything else looks ok

>> No.77142934


I'm liking the dark colors with bright highlights. These really pop

>> No.77142949

I actually want to squash it like a bug.

>> No.77142993

Just looking through my paint pots, Stormy Blue might be the colour for you. Haven't got anything to hand I can do a tester on, but I remember Dr Faust uses it a lot as the base for his blues, so this might give you an idea of how it'll look
The other Vallejo dark blues I have to hand (Dark Blue, Imperial Blue) are a bit desaturated and purple

>> No.77143063

Putting some zappies on my dragsta. What do you guys think overall?

>> No.77143121


>> No.77143144

Looks good, I like the detail on the base

>> No.77143169

I feel the colour scheme is bad which is why the colourshift doesn't work. Black is a bad choice here.

>> No.77143186

Amazing. Never change.

>> No.77143191

Actually working on a grot as well with green stuff to give him doc brown hair. Popped out of the house but I'll take a pic of him when I get back.

>> No.77143232


>> No.77143367

The other side btw

>> No.77143420

My man, how many of them do you have? I have the same strat but with blood warriors instead.

>> No.77143580


>> No.77143590

Anyone with a Patriot 105: I have an iwata hose adapter for my newly acquired 105, but just about every time I unscrew it, the valve screw(circled part) from the airbrush also comes out with it. Is there any way to better secure it?

>> No.77143747

Has anyone tried or seen what it looks like to cut off the little "lip" at the top of Primaris knee pads? Wonder if it's worth to cut and file it down

>> No.77143896

I tried drilling my barrels but the muzzle cracked

Any tips?

>> No.77143910

Brother I have Fallen

Shoulder decal still needs to be done

>> No.77143927

use a smaller drill bit or plastic glue the muzzle back together

>> No.77143954

What am i looking at?

>> No.77144147

I am waiting on a pack of steel legion in the mail and wish to make molds for personal use only. Does anybody have that pdf about casting? Do you think it would work to reproduce steel legion minis? Any tips for materials/methods?

>> No.77144349

Thanks, and my laziness appreciates that the bases are pre-formed, for maximum slacking.

>> No.77144590

I didn't use to sub-assembly infantry and characters, but I do now typically. Mono-pose characters and units from box-sets actually make it pretty easy to do, same goes for if you magnetize the model.

>> No.77145053

Is there a technique to paint those symbol creversses? I want to make them bright blue after I finish green blend to make them look glowing.

>> No.77145108

You can do bronze since it won't clash with the colors, or different shades of red

>> No.77145143

nothing special just thin your paint and let if flow into the recesses.

You could play around with additives that break surface tension, inks or an oil pin wash for these kinds of things, but that's overkill unless you have trouble holding a brush still.

>> No.77145195

How to remove the seam mark for this one? I brushed some tamiya plastic cement and I’m not sure if it’ll fill up properly

>> No.77145276

I have bottle of vallejo flow improver thou i don't really know what is it for. Should I use it or just stick with water?

>> No.77145465

to be honest I have no idea. I never used it. Google says it's supposed to improve the flow of the paint and delay drying time while using an airbrush.

If you got the stuff, just try mixing it with some paint see what it does.

Water works, but will not change how the paint behaves in any meaningful way though though. Try and see if that works for you.
May sound odd, but an old school way of making your own washes is using a bit of detergent or pva or varnish depending on what you are after. For a pin wash like this you could try a bit of dish soap.

>> No.77145569

I've used it before... decent, but not 100% required. Would recommend not sucking the brush whilst using it though; the stuff I had acted like a local anesthetic.

>> No.77145624

Prime it and have another look, you'll be able to see if it's worked it's not much more easily

>> No.77145647


>> No.77145669

If you've got it, the GW oxide paint would do it no problem

>> No.77145678

Do you prefer the subs or the dubs when it comes to Angel Giraldez?

>> No.77145855

>>>/trash/ is the eceleb board not /tg/

>> No.77145898

Just finished up these cheapo reaper minis for some NPCs for my D&D game. Any finishing touches?

>> No.77146175

Finished my Troggoth Hag conversion.

>> No.77146293

Just converted up this guy to run as a warboss

>> No.77146319

can also run him as a killa kan. no idea what clan I wana make him though

>> No.77146590

So Im gonna be working on this Enclave Scientist next, and I'm a bit unsure of how to get that helmet dome just right. I think I could manage something decent going with Retributor Armor and a Reikland wash, but anyone have any suggestions?

>> No.77146856

Paint the rims. Otherwise nice. I'm jelly you get to play in person.

>> No.77146888

gloss varnish.

>> No.77146987

Blocked in the base tones last night, and I'm not happy with most of it. Frustration got the better of me too, so there are a number of spots where I put paint on too thick.
I've got replacements in mind for the skin and hair, and what I think might be a reasonable replacement for the overly light brass, but I'm not too sure on any of them.
I'm also at a loss for what to do with the bandages, the beige colour just does not work. Any suggestions?

>> No.77147060

I think the dwarf needs a stronger contrasting color somewhere on the model. Looks unfinished right now. Otherwise paint the rims and they look great.

>> No.77147738

The beige works, you need to incorporate it on other parts of the model, like somewhere the clawed hand. It and the fur are nice warm tones on an otherwise pretty cold model and contrast nicely. The fur might be a bit too saturated, maybe add a hint of grey in? but honestly, I wouldn't scratch the colours just yet. You'll only see if they work after you paint the cables. Honestly the clawed hand elbow area looks pretty awesome already.

>> No.77147774

>> No.77147930

Bronze with heavy verdegris (aqua/blue-green) will complement your scarlet nicely. Faded goldenrod or a quartered scarlet-and-gold could also look good as a warmer palette, but if you're planning on rusting up the sheilds it'll look like crap. A weathered leather color with scraps of green or one of the above paints sponged on might be cool.

>> No.77148384

Looks good, like the colors.

>> No.77148526

Fucking sick man. Whats that bashed from?

>> No.77148656

Thank you.
The base model is a Creature Caster Plague Angel:
I got one for backing their kick starter so long ago, but by the time it arrives I had moved on from playing nurgle armies and had no idea what do to with it for the longest time.

Complete aside, that nose is the only thing I've ever sculpted out of greenstuff that I'm proud of.

>> No.77148950

Yeah nice job. I love the forgeworld troll hag, but your creation is fucking scary lol

I havent gotten down the "decent, or even visible" image yet, but this is my current wip. Gonna do a whole family, 3 rockgut for sons and an old fantasy sourbreath as the manlet dad for the bbw wife.

>> No.77148958

That's pretty deep and you'd have to remove quite a bit of material before that's gone. Fill it in with some milliput thinned with isopropyl and then sand it smooth after it's dried. I wait about 24 hours for it to dry before sanding. Start with a file, then 400 grit and finally 800 grit sandpaper. like it was never there.

>> No.77149134

The big reason I use zenithals is to actually make out the detail while I'm working. Unlike inking a mono-color primer, it doesn't re-activate randomly and soak up through the layers. It also does subtly tone things if you do it starkly enough even if you're not glazing.

>> No.77149421

Fucking love it.
There was, in fact, a time were I was considering an Ogor gut plate "bra" for a legit forgeworld hag. I am glad such considerations are behind me.

>> No.77149568

Any comments or criticism?

>> No.77149669

Highlight the edges of the decals on the griffons armor. Make it pop more. otherwise good shit

>> No.77150152

Got round to painting up the first models from my SS, puts me up to 8 Cerastus owned and painted now. At some point I'm going to have to try and use all of them in a game...

>> No.77150389

I did this one for my friend a while ago. She's a Yuan-ti Pureblood, I might try to make her eyes dark brown. It would make more sense for her character.

>> No.77151437

>those eyes

>> No.77151438

It looks pretty cool like that desu, like a drop pod that's seen continuous service for decades.

>> No.77151582

They make these titans smaller every year

>> No.77152301

I think in game you load him up with healing trinkets and pray for big heals. Rng will get ya sometimes tho

Here is the set

>> No.77152342

These from the board game or printed?

>> No.77152405

so where'd you get those? the board game isn't out yet

>> No.77152875

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