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/tg/ - Traditional Games

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[ERROR] No.50948665 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

No WIP thread on /tg/?! Emperor's heresy, that's TEETH!

>Citadel Painting Guides:

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:

>Painting Videos only

>DIY Lightbox

>How to Moldlines

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy

>Stripping Paint

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation

>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.

Previous threads:

>> No.50948729


>> No.50948763


>> No.50948797

In case this guy is still wondering.

I have a background in traditional arts, drawing and painting. I paint watercolour and ink, and I went to college for vfx so I've got loads of theory learning.

>> No.50948800

Getting back into the hobby. Asked before, but in the chance I get more opinions/suggestions, I'll ask again;
How would you lads suggest putting rounded goggles onto IG minis for cheap? If greenstuff, sculpting tips?

>> No.50948821

Genestealer cult. In case nobody suggested it before. Could put hair/helmets on them pretty easily too.

>> No.50948823

Are you using any 3rd party stuff like brushes or mouldline remover from my friend?

>> No.50948834

Got some shit done today. Glued on all the various gubbins and started on the energy orb.

Still undecided regarding the breastplate.

>> No.50948919

looks v nice so far, I think either way you'll be left with a great looking centerpiece

>> No.50948964

I'm getting the Armored Claw box set and keeping them Guard, so I'll have the parts around. Already planned on using some (removing the ridges, of course) to add some flavor, but I find that having too many bandanas will make them look a tad too bandit-y, and it feels like getting the helmets onto them will be a bitch and a half.

>> No.50948965

11 6x2mm for weapon options and another 2 at the waist, although if you're going inside the little cup on the legs I'd recommend bigger. This includes the battle cannon, melta thing, chainsword, gauntlet, avenger gatling and the missile carapace mount, but not the AA gun.

3 3x1mm for the stubber / melta, another 3 for the melta tanks / ammo box for the melta / cannon.

I think that's it. Bear in mind that I made the arms detachable at the swivel joint, so there are extra magnets for that- this is necessary because you only get two shoulders, otherwise you'd be able to just turn them off (they have a bayonet mount onto the central portion.)

>> No.50948985

I was, thanks for sharing.

>> No.50949160

My clippers and pin drill have finally given up on me. Want to splash the cash on some decent new ones. Are tamiya the best bet?

>> No.50949167

Much appreciated, anon. I might use 2x1mm for the small stuff, since that's what's available, but that shouldn't be too much of a problem since as far as I can see most of the joints are not too load-bearing.

Would it be feasible to stack a couple 6x1mm magnets together for the weapon options?
Currently I have 6x1, 2x1 and 8x1, which should cover most of the options.

Am completely new to both greenstuff and magnets on my models, so I thought I'd check to see if any of my stuff was going to horrifically fail due to the wrong materials.

>> No.50949220

Started posting in the warhammer fantasy thread...but figured it's more appropriate to post the Brets here..
I got this army off ebay for 300 bucks. (let that sink in...300...dollars...full army...and to me has some really nice looking paint jobs..) I'll post the inventory first...then post some of the pics of the army.

protip: It's Bretons

x1 Leon Leoncoeur
x5 Grail Knights (unpainted...which I'm worried about them coming out crappy with my mediocre paint skills)
x2 Trebuchets
x3 Pegasus Knights
x2 Damsels on Foot
x1 Green Knight
x15 Archers
x15 Archers
x16 Men at Arms
x14 Men at Arms
x16 Men at Arms
x5 Questing Knights
x9 Knights of the Realm
x6 Knights of the Realm
x1 Lord
x1 Standard Bearer

First up, is the Standard Bearer

Feel free to give **CONSTRUCTIVE** feedback, how I can fix up the models...and how I should paint the Grail Knights which as of now, are just primed black... I'd like to to fit the theme of the rest of the army

>> No.50949253

I didnt realize just how big this thing was going to be when assembled, ive spent the past four days cutting, trimming, washing and green stuffing everything and i can finally get on to the fun part of building it.

>> No.50949254

You lucky fucker, im happy for you.

These for AoS or FB?

You are going to want to strip them (I use 99% alcohol and scrub, some people recommend dettol etc), rebase them if necessary, then reprime.

For colour scheme tips perhaps try to find the Bretonnian army book on pdf somewhere (the whfb general will have it)

Tell us how it goes.

>> No.50949279


I'll take "Ways to guarantee nonconstructive criticism" for $200

>> No.50949291


>> No.50949312

Thanks! and yea for the some of the metal models I may strip. Let me know what you think of the knights, that I post later...

Bretonnian Lord. Not a huge fan of this one.. I want to matte spray it..it just seems too bright

>> No.50949391


What is the aliexpress mouldline remover?

>> No.50949450

Two Damsels. One I painted, and the red woman (doesn't she remind you of Melisandre from Game of thrones?) was painted by the guy I bought the army from.

>> No.50949512

How'd I do? Second pic coming up in a second.

>> No.50949524

Maybe this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/9-Blades-Wood-Carving-Tools-Fruit-Food-Craft-Sculpture-Engraving-Knife-Scalpel-DIY-Cutting-Tool-PCB/32425534341.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000014.5.baLvrc&scm=1007.13338.60375.000000000000000&pvid=56e84b51-6f05-40c7-814a-887ccaf423de&tpp=1 would be somehow useful

>> No.50949525

Some more test Van Saar for my next Necromunda campaign.

Honestly, these GS Cultist bits are amazing. Just a shame I jumped the gun and got the Overkill stuff when the real kits were so much better.

>> No.50949527

Second pic.

>> No.50949534


Are you going to post every model in an army you bought on eBay in a work in progress thread?

>> No.50949536

Not bragging but I prefer my damsel... A woman in armor > a woman wearing a deep cut dress on the battlefield...even though it goes against Bretonnian lore..

>> No.50949562

Nah, just the highlights, and pics that show where I think I could use some improvment. Don't worry

>> No.50949563

is there a /wip/ recommended airbrush system out there? Hopefully something cheap but still very good?

>> No.50949578


She's looking a bit flat mate, can i suggest a light drybrush on the edges (a lighter blue) to make it less so?

Also, the lights are still blue, and can I suggest, while not slopping wash around the entire thing, maybe drag it around the recesses?

>> No.50949584

>>50949536 >>50949312
Well you guys will see me after Autism: Shopping Review

>> No.50949690

Oh...okay, nevermind I'll stop posting. This is the last one..

>> No.50949718


They're nice, some very but posting an entire army (picture by picture) you bought on ebay that is in no way WIP is a bit odd...

>> No.50949739

Like you note, the armored "damsel" would make a better Repanse de Lyonesse.

>> No.50950240 [DELETED] 

>buying shit from aliexpress

Sorry, but it's stupider to think you're "being thrifty" and wasting money on garbage quality tools. Anyone who has paid more for premium hardware knows what I'm talking about. It's like driving a $500 car that, yes, will get you to work, but it's going to break down and can't compare to an actual good car.

>> No.50950389

Can anyone help me identify which kit or 3rd party site this bolted bit came from?

>> No.50950404

>Number 10, Everything

>> No.50950427


Tigrus Pattern Bolter, comes in Betrayal at Calth or from Forge World's Tigrus Bolter pack.

>> No.50950439

>oh hey, a dude who does little battle reports
>subscribe before watching the video
>opens it up and hears this fucking loud as hell whap noise that shakes my headphones
never unsubbed that fast before.

>> No.50950472


thx famalam


The dude makes nonstop weird fucking noises throughout his batreps, but it's hard to see anyone else that does Killteam batreps.

>> No.50950507

Looking good.
He needs the breast/nipple plate though as not to look too much like a generic Devil with Angel wings imho. Makes him unique.

>> No.50950623

>being an alt lite cuck

>> No.50950776

What colour do you guys think would look nicer for the cloak; red purple or black?

>> No.50950836

I've got an idea to give my upcoming Mordians some flavour. Rate it.

The bastards are known for their lockstep marching and firing lines. I want to support them with heavy weapons, but that doesn't really suit the idea of advancing and firing because you would need to tear down and set up weapons. But I need those weapons dammit. Specifically, I want mortars.

My idea is a 60mm base with two mortars on it, being loaded by a Servitor with a power claw. Gamewise, it's on the "proper" base size, but visually and fluff speaking it makes more sense to have a slaved machine operate the weapons so there's no wasted manpower. Plus, Servitors are dumb. Walk, stop, load and fire are simple orders.

What do you think?

>> No.50950911


Black or red. If you wanted to do purple you should make the crest purple and maybe the plasma too.

>> No.50951190

red inside, black outside

>> No.50951209

I have a question related to ventilation. Given that it's winter, and most windows are covered up in the house, what precautions should I take

>> No.50951218

At the very least, wide open rooms with doors open.

>> No.50951241

>windows covered up
Mud hut?

>> No.50951409

not the same person but we have giant wind sheilds on our windows during winter because its fucking deadly outside. i know his pain

>> No.50951447

Hope you're wearing a dust mask and wet sanding/drilling, and have good ventilation and are working far away from carpeted/sleeping areas

>> No.50951475

Further to this >>50950836 which of these Commissars better suits the fancy boys in blue? If you know of a better Commissar, I wouldn't mind seeing it.

>> No.50951502

>I know that the guy on the right isn't a commissar but I'm playing him as one, no bully.*

>> No.50951612

I like the idea, sounds rad

as for the commissars >>50951475
There's that guy with the book and the power fist which I think is pretty fucking classy

>> No.50951653

or this guy

>> No.50951661

Ohhhhh good call!

>> No.50951725

Just got one of these in, I dont even run the other Commissars I have but Im going to start now just because he's so dope.

>> No.50951937

I'm definitely going to go with him. I love fluff and lore stuff on the table, and he looks like he's reciting some sort of war doctrine.
But I would go with >>50951653 for my Kill Team (HoR) because he's much less passive looking.
I've also picked up the 2nd Edition Warzone starter set for the 40 Imperial Militia to use as my Stormtroopers. Pic related.
Plus, I can use the other 40 Bauhaus guys as Stormtroopers for Steel Legion or Kreigers.

>> No.50951997

Yeah the other one is high on my list too. I always assumed the one with the power fist was reading from the Uplifting Primer.

>> No.50952013

It would be hilarious if he was reading from the primer. The Mordians would probably think he was being condescending.

>> No.50952086


As opposed to?

>> No.50952136

use brush on primer, use gel super glue in place of plastic glue

>> No.50952191


Oh yeah! Da *uvva* Imperial ladz!

>> No.50952221

I had no idea they had metal minis and that they looked so cool!

I only saw that plastic kit they have which is kinda lame, if bloody cheap

>> No.50952226

Working on a farsight scheme still

>> No.50952232

Trenchers are my absolute favourite miniatures.

>> No.50952417

I only use brush-on primer, so all good there. Is gel super glue especially brittle? Will I be waiting till the next epoch for it to dry? Plenty of experience with super glue, but not the gel sort.

Can do. Place isn't particularly stuffy and an open door to the room isn't an issue.

>> No.50952667

Not that anon, but i just use Loctite Gel Control superglue. The gel is just handy for things that may not match up 100%, say, a shoulderpad. Liquid would just go on the arm in a thin coat, while a bead of gel would make contact then form and dry.

Sorry if that makes no sense. Also, ive noticed its easier to clean excess glue off with the same logic. Harder to peel liquid glue off, while a gel you can slice off easy

>> No.50952885

Anyone have cool converted 40k sorcerers or 3rd party?

Nothing in a google search really inspired me

>> No.50953038

Plasma Destroyer and Conversion Beamer scratchbuilds

>> No.50953099

Quick picture of mine

>> No.50953136

Rip tomb kings

>> No.50953155

>I had no idea they had metal minis and that they looked so cool!

You say "had" like it was past tense. You can still get them. Da Prince August ladz own the rights to the original "classic" Warzone/Mutant Chronicles models.

>> No.50953181

Finally decided to finish these guys. Up next is metals

>> No.50953250

Nice, that's one of the dark angel vet bodies I take it

>> No.50953368

I've got a wide variety of fantasy minis to paint, rather than an army with just a few colors. Can I get edge highlighting by just mixing a bit of white or light grey with the layer paint? I've already run bone dry investing in as many colors as I've got, and getting a lighter shade for each would ruin me.

>> No.50953395

Proud of your boy.

>> No.50953454

Re-workin my chapter master for the 10th time after grabbing the bitz once more and learning how to propperly thin my paints. REALLY fucking proud how the new one (right) has turned out.

>> No.50953486

The first one seems more reasonable. The second one's power cables throw it off for me since they usually don't go straight into something, there's usually a coupling end where it meets a surface. The second one just looks like a few spots are kinda crooked and the parts don't join well.

>> No.50953522

Where'd you get the left model?

>> No.50954208

Got this dude for 6$ preassembled and I think he's primed..is he?

>> No.50954267

He is.

>> No.50954285

Thanks! super newb question but I saw the base was no longer black and couldn't tell still.

>> No.50954317

Can somebody post some custom made orkified trukks? my friend doesn't believe they exist

Also if that guy who made a kill kan with an axe bottle could post his model

>> No.50954336

I cant even stand to see orks anymore. Every time I look over at my 4000+ points of painted okrs, and remember how utterly garbage tier they are on the actual board, it erodes my enjoyment of converting and painting them up that much more.

Thru shitty rules writing, GW has slowly made me start to hate orks. That takes monumental effort considering I have played them since the start of 3rd ed.

>> No.50954352

Tell your friend he is stupid. Or literally type in google images "ork trukk" and look at the thousands and thousands of examples there.

>> No.50954375


Here is one better even. A trukk turned into something completely else.

>> No.50954408

>Can somebody post some custom made orkified trukks? my friend doesn't believe they exist

Tell you friend orktamus prime says he would lose that bet 10 out of 10 times.

>> No.50954419


>> No.50954448

Thanks bros. Now he's asking if it's possible to use any of these in the tabletop game, so can you?

>> No.50954490

Every god damn one of them.

The only times it becomes questionable is when you model for advantage, like making a trukk the size of a bastion to LoS hide your models. like 75 precent of the reason you play orks is to make your own wacky shit, because it sure isnt to wreck house and win all your games. They havent been good in a long ass time.

>> No.50954584

Well doesn't that make it possible to get an army of trash looking axe cans with angry faces and bring them to a table?

>> No.50954614


>> No.50954642


Good job, anon! Definite progression, and I really like the look of the new one.

>> No.50954651

As long as they're roughly the correct size, and they received a good amount of time and effort spent making them look good, I'd have no problem. A friend of mine made a full Tau army out of Legos. It was pretty boss.

But if you're proxying a whole army out of cardboard cutouts or something, obviously that's a problem.

>> No.50955432

Hey W.I.P. With the new year coming up My friend sent me this "bingo" card as a challenge for the upcoming year (considering I finished this years challenge of 1000 soulstones worth of malifaux miniatures) I've got a few things cooking already but I'm having trouble with the "Bust" idea. Other than the ones that come in the Relic game can you guys think of any cool looking ones?

>> No.50955649

In some cases yes, but not all. Colours like red aren't highlighted with pink. You're either going to get a crash course in colour theory as you do this or get some funky looking minis.

Try to find one of the charts that suggests highlights and then aim to mix the colours on there instead of just adding white.

>> No.50955768

I'm stealing that Bingo.

Have you tried Scibor's busts? I really want to try one of their dwarves, and they recently had a very cool lovecraft one.

>> No.50955828

>bingo card
Go for it dude, seems like a really good way to motivate yourself to do at least a couple projects. Just remember the rule that you can't count one project multiple times.

I kinda want to make a couple other challenges to possibly make a second bingo card in case I get done with that one though.
The deep one is interesting, but I'm not super taken with any of them honestly...not much is jumping out. Which I find is the main problem with busts in general.

>> No.50955837

>tfw ordered the minis I need to start my two conversions on sunday
>still hasn't arrived

welp, guess I'm only Lurking this new years.

>> No.50956006

Hello painters.
I need advice.....or help
How to paint the dificult to reach area
Lets say that i have assembled model of speshhhhmarine that hold the bolter. How to paint the Aquila or others details that are on armour and behind weapons ?
I watched some tutorials, but they didn't help me.

>> No.50956020

remove breastplate
keep nipple horns

>> No.50956025

Usually it's easiest to just leave the bolters off, and glue those in place after painting the rest.

>> No.50956026

alright think I found one I might be able to have some fun with.

>> No.50956031

Those are looking pretty good, where are heads from?

>> No.50956049

Hey /wip/, anyone got a good method for painting blonde hair? I'm working on my character model for an IKRPG campaign, but most of my experience is painting bald shouty men and green shouty aliens.

>> No.50956053

blond blond or platinum blond?

>> No.50956058

Blonde blonde

>> No.50956076

He sounds like Gale the Snail in male form.

>> No.50956087

Assuming you are starting black, build up with a light brown or dark yellow (averland sunset is a good one) as the base color, build up to a bright yellow (flash gitz yellow or cygnus yellow if you are using P3), hit it with a sepia or earthshade wash, then hit the high points with flashgitz and you should be done.

>> No.50956088

Right, I'll give it a shot. Cheers.

>> No.50956093

Cheers mate.

>> No.50956104

The red dress damsel is my favourite he figure

>> No.50956110

for me it is the buk a fistin'.

>> No.50956245

*Gw figure

Autocorrect can fuck off

>> No.50956306

>Did five Kriegers a few months ago
>Had a bit of a break
>Was about to paint the rest
>Looked up prices for a mortar team on Forge World out of curiosity
>Everything gone up about 50%
>Squad of ten gone up from just slightly more than Cadians to £43
>Thanks brexit
>Can get one of those big boxes of an army for £50
>Almost cheaper to start a new army than it is to continue collecting Kriegers

Damn it /tg/. Thanks Brexit. I've always considered a Templars army so I might pick up that box. Anyone else been fucked over like this?

>> No.50956359

Yes, but what to do when I want to repaint some models ? And they have bolters.

>> No.50956376

Glue the model with plastic cement and the bolter with super glue.

Then just snap it off.

>> No.50956379

how the fuck are you supposed to do yellow?

I tried citadel and vallejo, but every time it's really rare color that most of the time just floods entire area and doesn't actually stays were it was supposed to stay.

While I can kinda paint entire armour with it, any detailed work is pretty much impossible.

>> No.50956385

Anyone got a recipe for leather (stuff like belts/pouches) with citadel paints?

>> No.50956390

You need less paint on your brush. Touch it to a paper towel so you can see the bristles before you touch it to the model, instead of a blob of paint.

>> No.50956397

do you think I'm retarded?
Of course I'm doing it, shit isn't working either

>> No.50956406

base Rhinox Hide / Mournfang
wash Agrax
layer Doombull Brown
highlight Tuskgor Fur

You can also make microscoping scratches with Pallid Wych flesh on extreme folds and areas of stress.

>> No.50956420

>do you think I'm retarded?

You're the one who can't paint yellow.

If you just can't control it, try a /slightly/ thicker mix, and that's all I can really say that isn't 'git gud'.

>> No.50956508

Probably shouldn't be using a glaze then.

>> No.50956548

You're definitely doing something wrong. It just hard to tell what from your description.

>> No.50956640


Why is he so perfect?

>> No.50956721

wait. how many thin coats was I supposed to apply?

>> No.50956803

Because they adapted to their audiences, the realised not taking themselves too seriously is the way to go.

And Duncan is best husbando by sheer essence of living.

>> No.50956808


Save yourself some time and apply one thick coat

>> No.50956847

Thus is writ in the book of Duncan;
First thou shalt obtain thy brush of an appropriate size for thine task,
Then thou shalt daub this brush in thine paint and bring a part down on thine palette.
Next, thou shalt add to this a portion of water or some other substance to this, and mix;
Making the two THIN, but as one.
Next, thou shalt dip thine brush into this admixture, but be warned that you do not carry too much upon thy holy instrument.
Then, and only then, thou shalt apply TWO THIN COATS of thine admixture, allowing the first to dry before applying the second.
Two shall be the number of coats applied, and the number of coats shall be two.
Five is right out.

>> No.50956861

Often a lot more than two, but let's not scare the kids away.

>> No.50956872

Hail Duncan!

>> No.50956895

>Five is right out.


>> No.50957053


Not that guy but they are from Mad Robot Miniatures.

>> No.50957083

> Warhammer TV literally embracing /tg/ memes

>> No.50957173 [DELETED] 


Thin ya paints

>> No.50957352 [DELETED] 

I've literally been posting one lol

>> No.50957364

I been posting one for the last couple of days

>> No.50957395

>Other than the ones that come in the Relic game can you guys think of any cool looking ones?

A Forge World Space Wolf bust slipped through my fingers years ago. I've regretted it ever since.

>> No.50957406

Magnus is ripped.

>> No.50957506

old spice magnus.jpg

>> No.50957953

advice on prepping and painting scibor?

>> No.50958012

You'll need a saw to get rid of the channels left over from casting. At least if you bought a mini and not just some bits.
Other than that it's just like any other resin mini.

>> No.50958031

Any recommendations?

>> No.50958065


Always remember to thin your paints!

>> No.50958179

I have some great brushes for 0,5$ a piece and also pliers and magnets. Some ideas what to buy from Chinese myfriends are on: http://pandahelper.com/modeling-tools-brushes-wargaming/

>> No.50958235

I was trying to grab a pic where he's pointing at the camera and staring at it but he only points for about .2 of a second and I gave up.

>> No.50958634

>One of the first times using my airbrush
So far, apart from the utter pain of cleaning, i'm in love with it

>> No.50958660

Like so?

>> No.50958825

Oh yes. Now it just needs some fancy graphics saying 'Thin Your Paints!' and it's perfect.

>> No.50958846

I really hope we get some new EC heads one day. Just finished this guy.

>> No.50958874

God, he's so cute.

>> No.50958881

>I really hope we get some new EC heads one day.
You could use third party bits.
Spellcrow, MaxMini and others have EC bits.

>> No.50958990

I need to drill some 30mm holes for magnets and my largest drill bit is is 8mm - what do?

>> No.50959005

pop an engraving bit in your drill and go to town.
or just buy a bigger drill bit.

>> No.50959015


I need to clarify, the biggest bit my drill can handle is 8mm. I've got 10mm bits

>> No.50959034

but that is heresy

>> No.50959072

use something like this?

They're called hole-saws, basically a normal drillbit with a much larger diameter saw-bit attached to it.

>> No.50959167


That seems perfect, thank you. I'm not very familiar with drills and stuff, the one I've got uses a 3-jaw chuck, so would this just work with it?

Im not going to be drilling the whole way through my models obviously, so I assume I'd make the hole to whatever depth I wanted with the hole saw and then cut away the inner piece?

>> No.50959348

the drill side is probably entirely standard, so I assume that'll fit your drill just fine.
I'm not exactly an expert on these things, I'd recommend visiting a DIY shop and explaining what you need it for.
It looks like these sets aren't terribly expensive, so getting one locally shouldn't break the bank.
As for creating shallower holes, yes I assume you drill the hole to the depth you need then break out the tools to clean out the lug in the middle.

>> No.50959406

Not a trukk, but I will post this here anyways

>> No.50959440

I made the mistake of trying to make up a colour scheme as I went.
I wanted a CSM chapter of Persian themed maths, luxury, and Satan but first attempt came out too bright alongside other problems.

Anyone want to help juggle ideas for colours? I was thinking sandstone armour, but it looks too clean and I couldn't make it look Stoney/weathered enough. I also made the mistake of gold trims with completely hid the work.
This is my first time painting in a year. I'm pleased to say that I'm using thin enough paints now. Hands still too shaky for great edge highlighting.
Photo probably huge because I'm mobilescum.

>> No.50959488

Good android app is 'reducephotosize' for resizing your photos.

You need to make sure you clean the sprue gates from the model, and try to fill gaps, such as his left shoulderpad.
Historically, purple was a luxurious colour, right? Try that with the gold maybe

>> No.50959495

sup /wip/. I had an idea for doing Ancient Greek-themed Sisters of Battle, but I'm a relative noob to this stuff, so I seek advice. The general idea is to remove or trim down the robes of the armor and replace it with hoplite-style leather skirts and to give them all those sexy Greek helmets. What's a good place to find decent Ancient Greek Miniatures? How difficult is pewter to work with? What tools will I need? Alternatively, are there any good places to get SoB proxies that aren't made of pewter/won't destroy my wallet?

>> No.50959549

Thanks. I got these preprimed and assembled on eBay because I'm poor and also trash at construction. I'll see what I can do to improve them though.
I was juggling purple. It looks more "evil" which is good. A full purple armour I think would be sore on the eyes though, and might lose some detail to the dark. Maybe using it as accent could preserve the "luxury" of the colour.

>> No.50959648

Actually crikey all of the models are horribly put together. I've just noticed. Every single connection is a giant seam. Id complain about leaving a positive review but really I should be thankful they're usable for $14 all.

>> No.50959693


Sounds like you'd be better off doing a kitbash job than trying to work with the old metals.

Maybe try using Sisters of Silence (or female dark eldar) as a base, plus Greekish space marine bits.

>> No.50959793

Quick makeover of han solos gun for a new years party
Lightings not fantastic and first time really trying this, but critisism is welcome as next project is an old rifle my newfew doesnt want for a big boss cosplay

>> No.50959859

Check out Warlord games, they have a nice historicals range.

>> No.50959912


the proportions are not the same as in 40K though

>> No.50959934

very little does, GWs 28mm Heroic is weird stuff.

>> No.50959952

That's a good idea. I might also check out RagingHeroes when their SoB-look-alikes finally release. Thanks anon!

All I really need are for the helmets to look good when placed on a GW model.

>> No.50960039

Foundry is also a pretty good place to look at for greek historicals.

As far as plastic kits go there only really is a female Eisenkern trooper one I can think of.
They wear powerarmor and are sometimes used to convert SoB.
Maybe if you use some aftermarket products you can style them as greek themed warrior women.

Microart studio sells a set of heads and torsos designed to go onto GW woodelf kits.
Scibor also has hoplite warrior styled helmets.
Puppetswar also has hoplite heads of undetermined sex, as does MaxMini(they are called skulltribe iirc though).
Hasslefree has hoplite shields in their conversion section.

If you plop the Microarts heads into regular SoB models or onto the Eisenkern ones doesn't really matter, if you've done that you're basically already halfway there imo.
It's gonna have a huge impact on the overall impression, especially if you paint the armor bronze.

>> No.50960056


It's them being cheap skates when they started. Marines too short, then they had to make human soldiers even smaller so effectively Imperial Guard soldiers don't have waists.

And now the minis have gotten significantly bigger in both AOS/FB and 40K. Sigmarines are huge, most of the new chaos guys are huge, Orruks are super big. But Space Marines still are victims of the old design decisions and obviously GW doesn't want to -re-do the entire damn Space Marine range to make them true scale.

>> No.50960551

Working on the gunner for my next raider. Also impulsively cracked open and assembled a box of ungor raiders for a planned aos project, but feel guilty about starting something else when this years-in-the-painting DE army isn't even finished. That aside, anyone else not get anything from their secret santa?

>> No.50960576

Thanks, this was really helpful.

>> No.50960590

I would get an army quick shade and just brush it on ALL your models

>> No.50960817

Thought id post this for any nurgle-fanboys
>Microwave white glue for 30 seconds
>Easy grotesque skin

>> No.50960905

That's really freaking cool

>> No.50961176

Are any of the GW brushes good? I can get them for 30% off from my lgs.

>> No.50961181


That's amazing!

>> No.50961226


Fuck. I kinda want to try this for HH Night Lords. Just hang some of that off their shoulders or something because I'm shitty with GS.

>> No.50961302

They're better than PP but worse than W&N S7. If you can get them for cheap then sure, why not.

>> No.50961325

I made a Dreadnought on the 3D printer a while ago and finally got him together and primed.

Not the highest quality print, had to fill in a few gaps with greenstuff. Still not a high quality model at all, but hey, I didn't pay a single cent for it, well other than the tuition I paid to be in the class of the professor who let me use his printer, and the cost of the greenstuff, primer and a 40mm base piece to put this guy on when I'm done with him.

What do you think?
This was more just a "hey anon, help me set up my 3d printer and test it and I'll let you keep what you make" rather than wanting to get a high quality model, keep that in mind.

>> No.50961354


Oh wow
>5 minutes later

Wife: Are you microwaving glue!?
Me: er... yes
Wife: Of course you are.


Looks like you gave a plastic dreadnought an acetone bath. Possibly useful for terrain... possibly.

>> No.50961356

chopped up, it could make a cool scenery piece or basing material, as it looks like it's been through a nuclear explosion. With a bit more greenstuff it could also potentially make a cool nurgle dread, but otherwise this thing looks way too shitty

>> No.50961365

Brilliant idea.

>> No.50961379


That is usable only as scenery, perhaps as the recent victim of a phospex orbital bombardment. Please never post any pictures of it again.

>> No.50961390

Which thread can i look at to catch up with this meme?

>> No.50961391


Which ones should I grab? I already have some cheap brushes, but GW are probably better.

>> No.50961426

> Aaaaaaaw wook at his wittle wegs

>> No.50961466

Main problem with GeeDubs is the price
At 30% tho they're a fucking steal

>> No.50961480

Are they smaller than a normal Dreadnought's? I don't actually play much Warhammer, I've been meaning to get into it for a long time, that 3d printed dread was my first model before I bought a squad of Marines.

>> No.50961493


I'll save you the trouble

>Look at my lovely painted Knight
It's really nice, that scenery looks like a little church
>Autistic reply about it not being a church
Still looks like a church
>Autistic angry reply about it not being a church
it's a church bruh
>Autistic angry reply about it not being a church
Are you sure its not a church
>Autistic angry reply about it not being a church

That's it

>> No.50961510

It looks half melted, frankly, but not the worse thing, I suppose.

>> No.50961523

Yeah I was thinking of painting him to look like he's covered in mud or something to cover up the printing errors and such.

>> No.50961554

He's gonna need a lot more than mud. Seriously anon, that thing looks like a Dread carved out of a potato by a retarded pigmy tribesman who has only just had the concept of a Dreadnought explained to him in a language he doesn't speak.

Use it as awesome terrain, or go mental with greenstuff, tentacles and that cool microwaved white glue trick and turn it into a nurgle dread.

>> No.50961575

Please help me find a recaster. I want a big squiggoth

>> No.50961620

The gargantuan Squiggoth?

Z has it I think.

>> No.50961626

My Genestealer Cult Leman Russ, all magnetised and still a work in progress

>> No.50961637

A bit more done on this thing. I did a light brown enamel wash that doesn't show on camera, painted the icons and lenses, heat weathering whateveryouwanttocallit on the barrels, got the bags all painted and put some decals on a few of them. Next is ak streaking grime, an oil wash, exaust stippling, then pigment work on the tracks and lower body. I just want to get this done, its starting to drive me mad.

>> No.50961650


Nice scheme, looks nice.

I got something from mine, that really sucks.

Maybe contact the organiser so we can blacklist that person for next year.

>> No.50961665

Is weathering powder a good way to get like a covered in ash kinda look an armor? I noticed Forge World has some literally called grey ash

>> No.50961704

Tried speed painting. 2 hours start to finish. Usually takes me 4-4 1/2

>> No.50961709


>> No.50961740

Pro prop-design anon here.
Decent enough first attempt.
The metallic drybrushing on the black is sloppy and too heavy. makes the gun look cartoonish up close (might look good at a distance though)
Metal on the muzzle looks bad IMO. Needs a wash. Helpful hint: for good looking weathered Iron, basecoat in a red or reddish brown prior to putting on the metallic. The brown grip looks good enough, but pic is blurry.
6.5/10. Good enough job, but it's no 'heroic'

>> No.50961749

Z has both the Gargantuan and normal Squiggoth

>> No.50961755


Alright, found the catalog, but how do I get an email?
Yes I know its a super secret club thing but please.

>> No.50961764


Fair. So far, I think I'm getting a large base brush for immolators because I don't have an air brush, the smaller base brush, and an artificer layer brush.

Honestly, I don't know what the rest are good for. They have two shade sizes, two dry sizes, and various layer sizes.

>> No.50961815


This is you right?

>> No.50961817

Please nothing. Do the work.Search Yoyhammer. The info is there. May take you a while but if you really want it you'll find it eventually.

>> No.50961820

oh ok, since you said please mr. GW man we'll just blow up the spot real quick here

>> No.50961835

>Mfw some kind anon posted the info on the AoS general and I emailed Z the other day, still waiting on a reply

Don't be a bully anon, the whole "DO IT YOURSELF" is mean.

>> No.50961857


Then take it from your sent items and give it yourself.

He clearly states in every communication

>Do not share my information


>> No.50961863

Do it yourself is what keeps the doors open. That anon wasn't kind, he was a fucking idiot.

>> No.50961864

>Yes I know its a super secret club thing but please.
it really isn't lol, just fags that wanna make themselves feel special

>> No.50961868

[email protected]?

>> No.50961889

How did you make the bricks on the base?

>> No.50961895

Yeah that's the one I used. Is it bad?

>> No.50961902

No, I was just asking.

>> No.50961910

Just cut craft foam

>> No.50962038

Happy new year guys

>> No.50962044


>> No.50962065


>> No.50962246

He is, but I can see moldlines and crap that need cleaning up, like on his thigh and his collar.

>> No.50962330


Happy New Years, m8

>> No.50962393

So I've been at this a while and seen the chinamen pop up in conversation. I'm not too interested in resin, or ordering stuff from Made In, but do these guys make everything that was ever made, or just kind of a crapshoot? I'd love to get a Greater Knarloc one day, is that even a good idea to attempt in this field? Will it be fucked? Regular knarlocs would be neat too

No im not asking for the email or a catalog, just curious as to selection.

>> No.50962411

is this Zs current Email?

>> No.50962421

because i want gorgon infantry troopers.

>> No.50962424

Any good alternative skull helemets/heads for Legion of the Damned marines?

>> No.50962436

Wip Thread bloated out by cunts begging for recasters, thanks guys, you're a real credit to team.

>> No.50962459

Hi guys,
First: Happy new year from France.

Second: can you help me with some advice; I am currently starting a Lamenters squad ( https://1d4chan.org/wiki/Lamenters ) and I have two issues with painting them
-> Getting the correct shade, the GW guy gave me null oil (As I was starting from scratch given that all my paints were dried) but I think that for the armour it's too black. What shade could I buy for a good orange/yellow effect
-> How do you get a good light yellow. I use Averland (base) then go up to Yriel Yellow then Flash Gitz Yellow then I do the edge with screaming skull. I can never have a good plain yellow. Either it's not homogeneous or it get this green shade if by gods you have some trace of black (with the nuln oil it's happens)

>> No.50962466

You too, anon!

>> No.50962501

the lamenters yellow glaze might help you out with that
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A89Z5Ogu0Qc or this, since fists have a similar yellow

>> No.50962515

1. unless you're using gloss washes, you're going to want to wash yellow with sepia.
2. Unless you're spraying yellow (with a rattlecan or airgun), I find the best looking yellow is to paint an off white or brownish color (I like Menoth White Highlight from P3) then build up the yellow with a couple coats of Lamenter's Yellow Glaze, then highlight with either Menoth White Highlight or Menoth White Base.

Happy new year, Frenchy

>> No.50962544

Ty mate.

Do you have an idea for the green shade that I get when I put some yellow. I mean It's annoying cos I can put move layer but with time it slowly remove some details or clog the shoes/chest in some crevice/recesses

>> No.50962579

>green shade
clean your brushes better?
>remove some details or clog the shoes/chest in some crevice/recesses
Thin those paints

>> No.50962582

Ty (x2).
What is the difference between shade and glaze except that one make darker and the later make lighter?

>> No.50962592


Emma was so horrible

>> No.50962608

Shades are designed to flow into recesses (Gloss shades are better at this than the matte shades which tend to stain whatever surface they end up on).
A glaze is designed to be added over another color to change it's overall hue without flowing as much as a shade.

>> No.50962650

>clean your brushes better?
No that's what I thought first but I literally took a new brush and with Yriel yellow when i put on a grey surface it get yellow Yes, but with a slight greenish tone.
I tested and it seems that it appears if the surface is not completely white. Moreover when I use nuln oil and make some mistakes, when I want to put some yellow over it it get much more greenish

Ok, thank you I did some war hammer before but I never did more than just base colour and some dry brushing, but the video and kill team got me starting again and those technique seems feasible.

>> No.50962837

ARe you supposed to drybrush tin bitz then boltgun metal or mix the 2 and drybrush that?

>> No.50962852

Diggin' the coats.

>> No.50962994


Two amazingly painted / weathered, vehicles ignored, no feedback but tons of recaster shitposting

Never change /wip/

>> No.50963108

Both of those tanks have been posted every day for almost a month. Whatever input there was to give was given a couple threads ago.
want me to shitpost my old minis again?

>> No.50963116

i think its more like if a model is posted and its good enough to meet /tg/'s standards, and you dont ask for any advice in particular, it tends to slip by. people arent gonna rag on it for no reason, nor are they going to congratulate you for the sake of it, i guess. for what its worth, i think the weathering is top noth, but some of the detail work needs to stand out more, almost everything on the second tank is a shade of blue and the only focal point is the stowage, but good job regardless :)

>> No.50963118

I know its a bit lame just coming asking for help but i've been searching for this model for hours with no avail - I hoped someone here would know what it is and if I can even get one anymore.

>> No.50963140

if you want a really 'yellow' yellow, try Averland sunset. it's a base, so it's thick enough for the other layers underneath it to not show through. it hink yriel gets that dirty or green tone from being applied so thinly you can see the previous layer through it, which it IS intended to do.

>> No.50963181

dont forget
>now anytime a large base has anything resembling a building, it's automatically a church

>> No.50963229


Well, not that I posted that message but the Leman Russ is mine and was assembled over the past two days and this morning it was grey plastic, so not sure why you think it's been posted for a month

>> No.50963249

It was far more autistic and angry than you make out and it went on for multiple threads because he was so damn salty about it.

>> No.50963361


Canopic Beast from the SMOG range, sculpted by Allan Carrasco.

>> No.50963403

Depends on the brightness of the colour in constrast of the base.

>> No.50963432

I was there, the anon kept asking for it, posting same pic for a week with lines like 'and I'll go ahead and say its NOT A CHURCH'

then sperg on anyone that said 'oh, thats what i thought it was on first glance'

>> No.50963479

for god's sake fix that blue on the exhaust
and apply washes to the recesses and the metal and then drybrush the model with a light blue

>> No.50963506

You should spice up the chest. Put the Tzeentch sigil or something there.

>> No.50963530

well we are out of the EU

>> No.50963589

>NEW from Milton Bradley
>Bop 'em Sock 'em chaos skulls!
>can you bop all the skulls before they devour innocents!
>ages three and up

>> No.50963604

managed to get a little bit done on this guy today. I'll be brightening up the metallics for a more gold look and then doing the plasma pistol next (not 100% on the colour for that but either orange to match the eyes or normal plasma blue)

>> No.50963637

Strange question.

Where can I source heads that would closely resemble Draenei while fitting with the Guardsmen/Fire Warrior/Guardian end of 28mm scale and not the Marine end? I'd be cool with just "remotely decent looking males and females with horns", really.

>> No.50963656

Sadly that's a typical problem with yellows.
They generally have very little covering power, so even when using a normal paint (a "layer" or whatever GW is calling them now) you'll still get transparency. Put it over something with any amount of blue in it and you'll get ... green.

Personally I generally just paint white then yellow on top, if I want a pure bright yellow over another colour.

>> No.50963662

Is the blue on the backpack staying blue? it looks out of place. Matching green or even white would look better IMO.

>> No.50963674

nah, it's just unfinshed, the blue is primer.

>> No.50963684

dont come here again

>> No.50963692

Thank you AlaskANON 1/3
Waiting on me when I came home.

>> No.50963708

I've found the best paints to layer up a yellow from are:
for a dark yellow, a brown like mournfang
for a bright yellow, ushabti bone
for a yellow yellow, averland sunset

>> No.50963718

Thank you AlaskANON 2/3

>> No.50963751

Thank you AlaskANON 3/3

>> No.50963765

What kills it for me is that it really fucking does look like a wonderfully made 1/200 scale church (or whatever scale that is)!

>> No.50963774

Probably the most fun week I've ever spent on /tg/

>> No.50963776

>Canopic Beast

Ah sweet, thanks man. Now to find somewhere that'll ship to the UK, if at all.

>> No.50963914

Have you not seen Alfonso Giraldes' "Abyssal Warlord" bust? That thing is fucking glorious.

>> No.50963934

Forgot motivational pic...

>> No.50963959

Great scheme! Only thing is that you should hold the camera back further and put a solid piece of paper behind the mini to help the camera focus better. Too much distance/stuff in the background makes it hard to focus.

>> No.50963963


Oddly enough, I just glued the same bit that is the "spire" to my Knight's base, as a signal beacon for the small stubber nest I've got there, along with the dead Marine no longer manning it. If I'd gone for a broken box instead of a metal crate and snow instead of mud, that would be pretty much it.

>> No.50963999

The difference is that having stuff like a body and a weapon on the base enforce a sense of scale, so your spire may never be confused for a church.

>> No.50964007

ill hopefully be picking up the scibor one myself, but thats mostly because im a big fan of his works.

>> No.50964031

a big fan of lovecraft, to specify, not scibor moulds, they seem to be very hit and miss in terms of quality.

>> No.50964032

Yes, but it's a bit odd that I finish doing that (well, still got to do the marine properly, glue him down and paint the thing) just as I find out about that meme (new to /wip/). One of those coincidences.

For a second there I thought he'd done a Knight to be an epic-scale Emperor Titan and gone for the extreme end of the size spectrum.

>> No.50964046

so did everyone else, and the guy couldnt handle the fact that it was his fault instead of everyone elses that that is what people saw

>> No.50964637

So which shoulder pads do you all think I should go with? Tan, red, purple, blue and black.

I think I need two of these choices one for vets and command, and one for grunts.


>> No.50964688

I would say Tan for grunts, red for vets, Purple for command.
If you're set on only 2 colors then red for grunts, purple for vets/command.

>> No.50964730

hey /wip/, i like to think i take care of my brushes but i tend to run through them in only a month or two.

for something like a citadel, modfx or armypainter brush, whats the life expectancy with decent care? so i can gauge if i'm wrecking them faster than i should.

>> No.50964792

I have plenty of colors. I just wanted to reduce the amount of variation so to not turn into a rainbow guard regiment.

>> No.50964802

If you're thrashing your brushes that badly, you are definitely not taking good care of them.

>> No.50964824

Three colors aren't bad, if done tastefully. Your red and purple aren't terribly dissimilar either, so they work well together.

>> No.50964841

>run through them in only a month or two
FUCK. Citadel brushes die quick if you don't take care of them, but not that fucking quick. How many minis are you painting in that time period?
I'm a commissions dude and I only end up buying a new pack of brushes once or twice a year.
I give the bristles a little acetone bath once every 3 or 4 months. To keep them extra clean. (DO NOT get acetone on the brush-handle)

>> No.50964877

thanks guys! yeah i was having some trouble with the camera - when i try the paper, it just makes the pictures come out really yellow and dark. it's a daylight bulb which may have something to do with it.

>> No.50964907

> thinks that looks good
Child please

>> No.50964963

in a month i might paint 20-30 infantry and one or two vehicles.
i always rinse and dry them to the point of there being no coloured water coming from the brush to my drying paper, and once a fortnight i clean them with that masters brush soap stuff. what am i doing wrong?

>> No.50964987

how do you store them?
Do you ever leave them sitting in the water pot for any amount of time?

>> No.50965065

I can't stop laughing anon. Damn you

>> No.50965165

Wait, I'm still using IDK(etc) can you point me in the direction of the new one? I can do the legwork myself after that.

>> No.50965176

i mean, theyre not murdered to unusability, but i cant do any detail work with them anymore. i usually just store them horizontally next to my palette.

>> No.50965178

WIP for my skitarii tribune kitbash. Thoughts?

>> No.50965207

are you licking your brushes?

>> No.50965212


>> No.50965250

It's definitely a start. What're you aiming for in the end, rules-wise? The main flaw I can see is that the torso area, from the waist up, is WAY too long. If you extended the legs with spacers, that might make up for it... but then you'd have a very tall Skitarii, and that may not be what you're looking for.


>> No.50965269


should i?

>> No.50965279

looks like you're getting paint too far up the bristles. if even a little bit dries near the ferrule, over time your bristles spread and get all shitty like in the pic

>> No.50965282


Honestly i'm not quite sure about what i'm going for rules wise. Figured i'd probably just use the Heavy phosphor blaster and claw as is from what they were pulled from, but i've never done anything like this before so i don't really know what i'm doing. Help?

>> No.50965299

Thank you, you madman. And happy new year.

>> No.50965305

yes. Lick that god-damn paint. Learn to love the taste!
Seriously though, saliva is good at keeping your bristles tight and sharp.
t. commission painter anon

>> No.50965317

Not him, but I spiral them between my lips after cleaning in water. Keeps 'em pointy

>> No.50965328

Don't fucking stutter post you putrid faggot.

>> No.50965345

Skitarii Vanguard, from the look of it. Well, the best you get is melee weapons and things like the phosphor pistol... none of which I personally take. But you could run it as a Phosphor Pistol and one of the special melee weapons; Taser Goad, Power Sword (don't do this please), or Arc Maul. I don't know what would best fit the claw. I build my conversions with their final purpose in mind usually, so I don't know as well how to assign a unit's gear to the model rather than the other way around.

>> No.50965391


Well if it helps to clarify the purpose here's what going on. My local gw store is running a league next year, and if we bring in a kitbashed custom model by the deadline we can use it legally in the league. Its just kind of a for fun type thing, but it really caught my interest so i'm doing this. It's intended to run as a custom HQ for my skitarii. I'd like to give it good rules. I don't wanna make something broken, no power gaming in the league or else, but i want it to be decent. Thing is like i said, never done this sort of thing before sooo yeah i'm just kinda trying to figure things out right now. I'm pretty proud of it. I know it's nothing special but i think i did okay for a first attempt.

>> No.50965412

Hold up, they're letting you *write your own rules* for it?

>> No.50965512

Happy new year

>> No.50965544


Within reason, yes.

>> No.50965558

Any ideas on how to weather to make it look like a lot of people stand on it

>> No.50965610

More dirt & grime on that deck; also drybrush some gunmetal in there, to make it look like the paint's been knocked off

>> No.50965780

Finally got some primer so I could start on my night lords.

How is the base coat? I'm never sure how thin it should be.

>> No.50965863

seems fine, IMO

>> No.50966341

what colour should i paint the little circle in the standard? red? parchment?

>> No.50966422

Mix your semen with lahman medium. Paint the resulting mixture into the circle. Let your little dudes carry your geneseed.

>> No.50966538


>> No.50966603


How's my lightning? First time trying it and my brush isn't exactly stellar.

>> No.50966644

>How's my lightning?
not that good, but that might be passable at an arm's length
I'd look up some Night Lords tutorials. I think Duncan has one.

>> No.50966731


I already watched the Duncan on it. My paint seems like it dries hella fast, and idk what the problem is.

>> No.50966767

>My paint seems like it dries hella fas
you aren't thinning it enough, for sure.

>> No.50966829


If I thin them down any more they're water.

>> No.50966855

Thinned paints dry quicker.

>> No.50967446

Alright, so I was directed here by /wmhg/ - yell at them if this is the wrong place.

I'm wanting to get into casting parts for wargaming (mostly terrain, but who knows), and I have a few questions:

Are there any good resources for me to get started with this?
Does anyone know what kind of plastic/resin other independent casters (i.e. not GW, Citadel, etc.) use?
Are there any pieces you'd specifically be looking for? Barricades, buildings, etc.?

Any help would be useful.

>> No.50967465

Its not Duncan tier, but its not complete shit or anything pretty decent anon. Keep it up.

>> No.50967613

>Are there any good resources for me to get started with this?
Op has a pdf I think. Google is a good resource too. Not even taking the piss, but the information isn't hard to find.
>Does anyone know what kind of plastic/resin other independent casters (i.e. not GW, Citadel, etc.) use?
That probably varies depending on the company. But they usually add grey/black pigment into the resin, so if you buy something off the shelf your cast will usually be white, cream or transparent. Doesn't matter for the product for.
>Are there any pieces you'd specifically be looking for? Barricades, buildings, etc.?
Personally I'm drowning in my backlog.
If you are casting scenery you should consider that it takes a lot more resin than minis. One of the reasons FW stopped selling their awesome scenery was that in order to be reasonably priced they had to deal with a smaller profit margin.
If you are going to sculpt stuff yourself I think some ethnic heads would be nice. There isn't really much in that area. There are only two companies that offer 28mm heads that don't come with a complete kit.
If you are thinking about recasting only do it for personal use. You don't want to get into legal trouble over plastic soldiers.

>> No.50967624

Here's an old /tg/ guide to casting, covers the basics.


Plastic is used with injection casting and requires very expensive machinery and moulds, so you won't be using that. Resin or metal are the options a home recaster has.

>> No.50967702

I'm shit at image editing, someone pls make a better version. Thought this could work well as an OP image.

>> No.50967708

That's good for me.

>> No.50967940

>OP has a PDF
Will check out tomorrow
>Resin depends on company
I just see a lot of the same-looking kind of gray, vaguely flexible plastic being used and wondered if there was a specific "standard" they used or if it was a coincidence.
>Scenery takes more resin
Understandable, yeah, but AFAIK there's some ways to work around that.
Don't think I have the skills (or patience, or time) to do figures/organic objects yet, but we'll see where this takes me.
Nope, a thousand times nope. I'd rather make shitty vaguely-facsimiles than directly rip off any models; I'd rather GW legal team stayed away from me.

Currently, I'm working on some fairly generic things to get back into modeling (pic related) and am hoping to get these cast when I get the proper molding material. Dunno if anybody will want them, but I don't doubt I'll get better at it with time.


Neat, thanks. Skimming through, it looks useful.

>injection molding is expensive
Yep, I know, I wasn't planning on doing so. Unless I somehow get access to a CNC and piles of money, I'll just stick with 2-component plastics.

>> No.50967979

Oh, I have something I'd like to see, don't know if anyone makes anything like it.

Semi-transparent, flexible blast template markers. The phosphex launchers I use in my 30k army leave behind flaming dangerous terrain in the shape of their blast markers and something like that would be fantastic for marking them out.

>> No.50968105

Mfw your YouTube feed is basically mine.

>> No.50968118



>> No.50968170

O mate, I'll try that thank you for the advice

>> No.50968191

this here is one layer of flash gits over a layer of ushabti bone, with i think i used a white primer. might have been silver primer though.

>> No.50968203

silver primer to clarify, so ushabti as a base over any kind of primer works fine.

>> No.50968251

Don't forget the second gunman incident.

>> No.50968327


>> No.50968396


>> No.50968407

OK, It does give a nice yellow.
--> What shade do you use Reikland fleshshade?

--> Do you need multiple layers to get this result?

--> How much should I thin my paint. I saw that it's important (ty Duncan). But I never know how much I should, like just the tip of the brush or put like 1/4 of water (a drop then mix on pallet)??

>> No.50968429

yeah, i usually use reikland on yellows.

i'm lazy, and i'll usually do one layer and then touch it up if i accidently get some other paint on it by mistake.

it's hard to tell someone how much to thin their paint, and 'consistency of milk' is kind of vague. you want it thin enough so it will go on the model without blobbing on detail such as bolts of rivets, but not so thin that it forms into beads and drops and runs off the model. you'll get the hang of it with practise. for some things you'll want to thin more than others. i used to try to thin paints when painting flags and shit and it was a nightmare. after that i didnt even thin or shit like banners and scrolls.

>> No.50968462

heres flash gitz over ushabti on an infantry model.

>> No.50968480

Is this ork using a squigg as a flail?
But yeah it's nice ty

>> No.50968502

it's an old pewter model my friend gave me, it's meant to represent the Attack Squig wargear, i think.

>> No.50968505

Looks proper spooky

>> No.50968717

It takes me two days to paint something 1/3rd as good.

>> No.50968767

Who is Duncan?

>> No.50968798

fuck outta here

>> No.50968867

He's Games Workshop resident Tutorial painter, he does regular videos on Warhammer TV, their YouTube channel, they're surprisingly good and watchable and clearly demonstrate many basic techniques.

>> No.50968874

Currently in the process of converting a raider into a trukk

>> No.50968919

hi max

>> No.50969608

Do any of you guys have an idea where to get a mini of a Cairn Terrier? Or something that looks like it? It's also cool if it's a weredog or wearing a spacesuit, I just need something that looks like the right breed.

>> No.50969771

Found this with a search:


Don't know if it's good scale or anything. hope it helps

>> No.50969974

Wow... page 11?!?


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