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/tg/ - Traditional Games

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>> No.49769864

Come on people, I want original Spess Muhreens before the thread ends!

>> No.49769990

LGS is doing 30% off on all miniatures. What Tau should I pick up? I've got a Fire Warrior squad and a Crisis Suit squad right now. Still working on an actual storage solution for these guys, though, and I haven't figured that out yet...

I don't have any spare Marines, sorry.

>> No.49770044

Where can I find 28mm "heroic scale" bucklers?

>> No.49770096

I mean, if you were a very despicable person, I'd say a Riptide. But if you're not, get a Vespid Squad, they're pretty good and original.

>> No.49770131

another fire warrior squad
crisis suit commander

>> No.49770134

Have you tried the old Empire range? I was going to say try Brettonia but you'll have to wait for those.

>> No.49770136

Last thread died just as i was about to post. Here's my progress so far, tell me what you think. Painting up an entire army under three months has been exhausting so far, but it's almost over now, and that feels just great. Right now i'm doing the chainmail highlights on my dudes, after that it's the smaller details, finishing touches on the skin and final highlights on the eyes. Then it's only a bit of sponging and i'm finally done and free of this burden.

>> No.49770172

Can anyone reccomend some good colours for the death korps greatcoats, i'd like to have them similar to their basis, the grey/blue french ww1 greatcoats, if not a little more faded and darker

>> No.49770237

Nice color choice. Unconventional for Nurgle, Chaos always needs variety.

>> No.49770257

I'm always impressed at your conversions and the difference between start and finish, since you post pretty much every step of the way.
Good work bruv.

>> No.49770333

Any recommendations for schemes to try for Wintery IG tanks?

>> No.49770458

Are there any bits makers that you can recommend for a bunch of assorted skulls, or other random stuff like small branches, symbols, limbs I can use for basing

I know most of you just search your old project leftover bits but I'm brandnew to the hobby and wanna make my bases just as beautiful as my models

>> No.49770577

Is Leadbelcher truly disliked?

>> No.49770672

I'm working on a corvus blackstar converted to proxy stormraven for my GK, since it looks much better than the stormraven. I've turned the two bolter mounts that usually go ontop of the thing into multi-melta's that will be mounted under the missiles, and plan to mount the GK book ontop but I'm not sure exactly how yet.

It also will have LED's because SM vehicles got plenty of space for electronics to do so. Hole in the bottom will be for a switch. I've still got to clean up some things (and finish other models) before I get around painting it.

>> No.49770749

By whom and what does make think that

>> No.49770772

How do you deal with painting hard to reach bits?
I've purchased a load of land speeders off of ebay and I can't separate the crew torsos so I can do all the cockpit detail such as the buttons, sceens etc, do I just blob it or what

>> No.49770809

Yeah, Leadbelcher's a fine iron-steel color. It goes well with Ironbreaker Silver and Runefang Steel highlights.

>> No.49770827

Is this some form of higher irony I'm not grasping?

>> No.49770843

I like how they're coming along. The one thing I will say is the pose on the missile launcher guy in the second pic down on the left is really odd, his legs look awful. That's probably the old chaos marine sculpt's fault and not yours though.

>> No.49771080

I honestly just recommend the french ww1 coat cause damn that was stylish.

>> No.49771170

this picture is a couple months old now but I don't think I've posted it here before??

>> No.49771210

Anyone know a good place to find Rogue Trader era minis that isn't ebay?

>> No.49771219

How would one even go about painting Celebrants with that slick fucking gradient.

>> No.49771223

Hey guys, dumb question inbound. What are the big differences between painting 15mm and 28mm. I paint flames of war on a regular basis, but my friends and I are starting up a D&D campaign soon, so they want me to paint up some reaper minis for them. Obviously I want them to look good, so what are some things that I might overlook because I'm used to 15mm?

>> No.49771278

Man thats so nice and clean. I wish I had a steady hand like that. My stuff looks like shit and people always rip the piss.

>> No.49771280

>banks of bolters

I miss when armaments made at least some sense.

>> No.49771358

more like Iron-y

>> No.49771397 [DELETED] 

I will keep to my word. Got a spare Libby somewhere

>> No.49771431

I'll keep to my word (unless I get a shit chapter

>> No.49771436

Buying bitz for the sole purpose is a tad silly. Plus if you're just starting the hobby, you'd better concentrate on painting well first, you cab make some veru good bases with next to nothing, like a texture paint, a wash and a drybrush.
That and you'll almost always have some leftover bitz from any box since GW back them to the brim to justify prices.

After that, GS, plasticard and standard basing materials should be more than enough honestly.

Noice. Shame it's unfocused, it doesn't do the model justice. Just put down your phone, fold 3 pieces of paper to make sides and a white background, and it'll be much better. If your phone is recent enough you'll have a software integrated to adjust light and colours. Mine is literally pressing a button colour correction and jacking up the lighting.

And clean the sides of your base, some hair is going too far.

Still a lovely model.

>> No.49771455

Rolled 62 (1d100)

Actually rolling this time because I'm an idiot

>> No.49771456

Like that. Shame we can't see the whole model.

>> No.49771492


>> No.49771633

Does anyone have a recommendation for basing guys that' simple and looks good regardless of the terrain I'm playing on? I did my entire Flames of War army with Rhinox Hide bases, Vallejo white pumice, and static grass, but I don't think its a good look for 40k.

>> No.49771672

that doesn't look bad m8, you just have to be confident (unless you have a nerve disorder, in which case RIP). minis can smell fear and will never reward you unless you earn their respect

>> No.49771856

Horus Heresy general hates it because of Iron Warriors, but I don't know of anyone else who does.

>> No.49771909

anon is correct
if a model disrespects you, take him, or one of his brethren and melt them in the appropriate acid/solvent
even if you dont have their respect, you'll have their fear, which is just as good

>> No.49772388

I wish, you know what the citadel paint equivalent of the colour would be?

>> No.49772671

Anvil Industry makes a few shields, which are heroic scale. There's a kiteshield and a round one. You can find dimensions here -> http://anvilindustry.co.uk/Medieval-Shield?search=Shield

>> No.49772687 [DELETED] 

I have a question, how would one do the Minotaur scheme effectively on a vehicle without a airbrush? Should I make a wash or use a large brush for the agrax gloss? I don't want to leave obvious brush strokes trying to shade it. Link is color scheme I'm trying to do. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kmnwsJVmpaM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

>> No.49773084

Well the minis will be smaller.

>> No.49773136

I'll see if I can get these dudettes ready before tomorrow's game.

>> No.49773178

Question for Citadel users, I have a plan:

>Basecoat Abbadon Black
>Layer Skavenblight Dinge
>Full-shade Nuln Oil

Skavenblight is the darkest grey citadel has. Will shading it with Nuln give me a more "varied" black armor? As in, having more pronounced shadows while still looking black?

>> No.49773269

I'm moving from 15 up to 28 is the issue, not the opposite haha

>> No.49773313


>> No.49773317

Black armour is tricky. You need to decide if you want it to look reflective (extreme highlights up to almost white) or matte (sort of like your way). If you want varied black armour just change how you highlight up from black (eg. Use either eshin grey or dark reaper to highlight up from)
Pictured is a black armour I painted about 2 weeks ago, highlighting from pure black with dark reaper/Thunderhawk blue/fenrisian grey/white scar

>> No.49773351

This is only Celebrant model I was able to find.


>> No.49773390

Does anyone know where to get fancier metallics? Like actual metallic black, hotrod red, and blue-steel (like HH Alpha legion).

>> No.49773401

>FlaKvierling 38 kit finally shows up
>quickie conversion with metal FlaK43 barrels for an ADL quad-gun
>I forgot how little of a shit Tamiya gives about flash
I guess I'll have photos up sometime next month, then.

>> No.49773412

if you want to candy coat a metallic those gem paints are decent. Not sure how It'd look on a larger scale though

>> No.49773438

people like the tamiya metallics.

i just use cheap craft paint from Michaels, but I've found those a pretty good. metallic brown is a fantastic undercoat for gold, bronze, or brass.

>> No.49773703

Working on a wurrzag i got a while ago, probably one of the best quality finecast models i ever got, still wanted to change the mask (i really don't like the slit eyes the original had)

still wip working on highlights and the base a bit more

>> No.49773723


and the back

>> No.49773737

i normally just paint reaper minis and haven't really assembled that many minis before beyond the basics.

i recently bought a box of space marine tactical marines. is it sacrilege if i don't drill the barrels? i take care of the mold lines but i don't have a pin drill.

>> No.49773747

Picked up a squad of pic related - what do you folks suggest for fur colors? I want to do the squad leader as a silverback, but not sure what I want for the other two. Something a bit different could be fun.

>> No.49773816

>testing out zenialthal highlighting with glazing
>have little bottles of glaze medium on worktable
>gf comes over with friend
>gf asks why i have little bottles of cum on my desk
>her friend laughs

zombicide heroes. they just got their matte varnish so i can go back in with blood effects. hopping dulling the shine makes them look better, not liking this new method first but gonna stick with it

>> No.49773975

Looks great, I really like those round eyes in the mask.

>> No.49773993

When do I use glaze? And how do I apply it?

Thanks in advance.

>> No.49774040

What material do you use to build terrain that isn't foam? Is plasticard viable for building GW-like structures? I'd like to start working on some pieces for modular urban terrain for my LGS, and I want it to actually last more than a month or two, unlike their last batch.

>> No.49774042

after the donuts have had long enough to cool (so that the sugar doesn't stay too liquid and just run off)

you can either dip the whole donut or spoon it on more sparingly.

>> No.49774130

Take inspiration from Planet of the Apes and throw in a bunch of great ape likenesses like Chimpanzees and Orangutans

>> No.49774149


>> No.49774150


>> No.49774241

Plasticard is great for buildings. I use some cardboard too. Foam should last a while unless you guys throw it around...
Check out theterraintutor on youtube (he has some good tutorials for making buildings for 40k. Or https://www.reddit.com/r/TerrainBuilding/. They are both excellent resources for building terrain.

>> No.49774330

You use it to tint a color with the glaze color. Just apply it evenly over the surface. Shake the pot really well and don't thin with water, or it might dry with milky white spots.

>> No.49774383

>Detailed video on how to make sandbags fortifications
This pleases the IW.

>> No.49774632

glaze is used whenever you want an entire surface to be tinted with a color.

applied with multiple thin, even layers. can either use a glazing medium or a really watered down paint

>> No.49774928

Tools question. Can anyone provide a link to a good 1/8" bit for a pin vise drill? JUST the bit (or possibly a pack of slightly smaller and slightly larger bits), not a drill to go with it. I've only got up to 1mm bits, but I need a 1/8 (slightly larger than 3mm) bit for my magnets.

>> No.49775337

Too many Gaunts, i need a break

>> No.49775399

No idea, im just getting back into the hobby after leaving it for awhile.

>> No.49775424

I'm sure you can find a set like that in any hardware/DIY store.

>> No.49775456

>Is plasticard viable for building GW-like structures?

Yes, but you'll need extremely thick styrene board, or glue many pieces of plasticard together to make them thicker.

>> No.49775847

Rolled 53 (1d100)


>> No.49775851

How much of the GW Mars paint would I need to get an entire 6x4 board painted up?

>> No.49775892


>> No.49775899


A shit ton. Don't do it. Just buy generic crackle paint and use that, then spray it red. It would literally be cheaper to buy the plastic realm of battle than to do that. Maybe even the FW board.

>> No.49776091

Give me random color schemes to paint my armies with please /tg/

I would love inspiration of any kind

I've got Dwarfs, Stormcast, Ogors, Chaos Marines (unaligned) and Marines (no specific chapter) all grey still.

Once I get a color scheme going I get really into painting, but before that my armies sit unpainted indefinitely because I'm horrible at making decisions...

>> No.49776117

You'd be surprised, I've searched the local Home Depot, Lowes, and Menards, all of which came up with nothing whatsoever I could use.

>> No.49776260

Purple with silver highlights for the marines.
Grey with dark green highlights (sigils and such) for the chaos marines.
Any dwarfy colours look good on dwarfs.
Palid grey flesh for the ogres.
Throw the stormcasts into the fire with the chestnuts.

>> No.49776282

Do african-themed Ogors. Dark skin, fancy pelts, and only use bronze for the metal bits, keep most other things wood/bone.

>> No.49776455


I think it's worth picking up some thick "modelling cork" it comes in a roll usually, it looks good as rocks on your bases. Also some fine grain sand and possibly some slightly thicker grain sand too. You'll need pva glue to stick this shit down with. I also use "battlefields xp" grass since I think it looks nice.


Has a good selection of basing shit you can browse to get an idea of what you might like/need. There is lots of smaller companies like kromlech that make stuff you could use to stick on bases like mushrooms, logs, skulls etc.

If your USA I'm sure their is a similar site someone can recommend. The site I linked is cheap but holy shit I've been waiting 3 weeks now for plasticard to arrive, wish I had just bought it in town.

>> No.49776517


Certainly not worthy of piss ripping.

All I can recommend is take your time, like realy take your time. Get a good desk and chair that's the right height for painting, good daylight lamp too if your painting at night. I have quite shaky hands and I find if I plant both wrists on the desk, one holding the mini, my brush hand I hold the brush quite far up near the tip for tighter control, I can get good results. I also find it quite good to paint seated with one knee up close to my face holding the mini atop my knee, I dunno why but it's comfortable and steady.

>> No.49776761

For the Dwarfs, red for the metal armor bits, pure-white for the major bits of cloth/fur, and black for like arm-wraps or any secondary fabrics.

>> No.49776763

It's an assault transport and gunship, the armaments make sense enough for clearing LZs and providing some measure of fire support after the squad's deployed.

>> No.49776850

Vallejo make a nice metallic medium, takes a bit of trial an error but once you figure it out you can make some nice metallics for what you need.

>> No.49776862

A dot of black on the barrel is fine, no one except /tg/ meme-masters will give a shit if they're not drilled.

>> No.49776920

I really shouldn't take on another chapter but..

>> No.49777559

Progress of the slenderman

>> No.49778342

Since Iron Hands are supposed to have a blue highlight to their black armor what gw color should i use to drybrush my vehicles with?

>> No.49778381

Depends on how fancy you wanna get. For quick and dirty just use a medium grey-blue. For more fanciness start with a dark blue, then medium, then fine highlights with a might lighter shade.

>> No.49778406

So, dark reaper blue?

>> No.49778593

Dark Reaper and then some Russ Grey, and maybe even Ulthuan Grey on sharp edges if you really wanna make them pop.

>> No.49778681

Does anyone model "Extra Armor" upgrade for contemptor dreadnoughts? Any suggestions on how to go about doing this?

>> No.49778804

How would I go about painting cloth on fire?

I want to try to reach the effect in pic but on the creases of the mantle and the end of it. I tried to do a larger flame and duller but my hexwraith's horse's cloak looks like a harley davidson jacket.

>> No.49779066

Basically paint fire "in reverse" of normal painting techniques. Have the lightest colors be at the base of the flame, and in the recesses, while the darker colors are more towards the tip and raised edges.

Also lots of blending/layers.

>> No.49779143

Should I still paint from darker to lighter colors or not?
On different guides I saw two different methods, one starting from dark areas with very diluted colors and going brighter and brighter and another with just normal layers from white to orange

>> No.49779221

It's easier to start with the lighter colors, since they're near the base and recesses. Just thin each layer by a large margin so you don't get hard layer-lines.

>> No.49779295

Apparently my marines are knights of gryphone.

Never knew there was a burnt orange chapter. What's their back story?

>> No.49779412


Thanks, one last thing: last time I tried to use mournfang brown squig orange wildrider red and flash gitz yellow but I'm not sure this is the right scheme, what do you suggest?

>> No.49779432

my first time using weathering pigments. not finished yet but almost.

>> No.49779446


>> No.49779448

I kinda want to get this mentality out that having a single Riptide is "OP". It's not. They're the Tau's TEQ. It's fair if they can have one if you bring some Termies or a Land Raider. If they bring multiple and in the Wing, then yes that is pretty cheesy.

Also Kroot are shit. They're just expendable meatshields. Having a whole army oriented around them would be incredibly boring. If Tau auxiliaries had the same love that Genestealers then that would be fine.

A "fun" army to play against is something that tries to bring all the neat units into the battle in a combined arms fashion. Not just spamming any one single unit. A good Tau player would know that some well supported fire warrior unit is a cheaper and arguably better source of anti infantry fire power than the other units.

I'm so tired of hearing non Tau players complain about "muh Battlesuits or muh Riptides" They're there in the codex, they have a purpose, just like the FWs.source then any of the battle suits. Just because you get butthurt at the cheesemongers doesn't mean that the other Tau players have to stop using a particular unit. Quit bitching.

>> No.49779458

Sounds fine. Go light on the brown, and maybe even top it off with some black if it's a particularly smoky flame.

Also keep a little bit of white/pale yellow at the base of the flame.

>> No.49779489

If you settle on a color, I'd like to know. I am struggling with this as well

>> No.49779506

Rolled 4 (1d6)


>> No.49779519

Rolled 80 (1d100)

Whoops. Fuck I'm tired.

>> No.49779940

Assault cannons/lascannons I get. Missile pods are fine too, they complement either main armament.

Fixed forward firing bolters and meltas I don't get. Quite frankly, I don't even get meltas on a flyer. On something like an assault ram that uses them to soften up the hull of an enemy ship before punching through, sure. On just a flyer, especially a big fat transport ship, they might as well put a flamer on it. It's not even turreted, so you have to turn that flyer to face the target. I don't think the flyer's suppose to go toe to toe with things that need a battery of melta weapons to deal with. I you're just hovering there, grilling things at pistol range, you're a sitting duck for all sorts of shooting.

At least the Stormraven put the hurricane bolters on sponsons, so they could track more independently of the flyer's facing, though even then they arc is so insignificant that they might as well be fixed. On the Corvus Blacksugar the bolters are fixed, so that the whole flyer has to be turned and they don't, in fluffy terms, do much to compliment the assault cannons. They'd work as defensive weapons, like Valkyrie door heavy bolters, but they're fixed so clearly their function is to aim at whatever the missile pods and assault cannons are pointing at, and if you got a pair of assault cannons and missile batteries pointing at something, some small arms fire isn't adding much to that. It's like putting a .50 cal on an AC-130 to compliment the gatling guns, autocannons and howitzer.

>> No.49780211

>It's like putting a .50 cal on an AC-130 to compliment the gatling guns, autocannons and howitzer.
Mate, everyone knows that you can't realistically compare 40k to the modern military. Anyway, you're statement is interesting, because the previous 'version' of the AC-130, the AC-47, had 10 .30 cal machine guns as part of its main armament. Honestly, an AC-130 isn't a good comparison for the Corner Black store anyway. The Covered Blacksmith appears to be (and bear in mind I haven't seen the rules, so correct me if I'm super wrong) a multi role gunship similar to the Hind. In the fluff, its weapons would be able to shoot much further than the crunch says they can, meaning they wouldn't have to hover at pistol range.

>> No.49780346

Rolled 23 (1d100)


>> No.49780367

These two are my first ever attempts at painting in general let alone painting a mini besides a Tao Fire Warrior I did. This is before I get them a liquid skill wash and highlight.

>> No.49780389

Side view

>> No.49780466

>tfw feel like I'm getting worse the more I paint

how do I stop/reverse this

>> No.49780486

watch tutorials so that each time you're painting you're trying something new, learn new techniques. try something different

>> No.49780515


Not too bad anon for a first try anon. But remove mold lines before you start painting. Also, your paints can never be thin enough. Other than that, try using highlights and washes.

>> No.49780520

I didn't have anything to remove the mold lines at the time before I got impatient. I realized I'd used way too much primer when I primed them. The wash and highlight was definitely the next step.
I was pretty happy with the burn effect on the tip of the weapons and how clean the lines were, though.

>> No.49780569


3x M134 miniguns and 10x M1919 machine guns. Both in relatively similar calibers.

>AC-130 isn't a good comparison

In terms of armament it is.

But ok, lets work with the Hind. Take the two PK machine guns mounted to the sides and fix them onto the wings to fire forwards. Is this better than if they were serving defensive roles on the sides, firing independently from where the chopper pointed?

>weapons would be able to shoot much further than the crunch says

Even in fluff meltas are short range weapons. It's not good for a flyer to have to rely on short range weaponry. Lascannons would make much more sense.

>> No.49780776

Happy tanks time.

>> No.49780969

Those look great. Fantastic models too.

>> No.49781140

This guy uses Thunderhawk blue (which I don't think is made anymore) and drakenhof nightshade

>> No.49781261

I paint my Dorfs more in the same color scheme als Ultramarines. I know my thechnique isn't very good, but I like 'em. Someone with real talent could really make something pretty neat with the scheme, I think.

>> No.49781675

I just primed my whole god damn start collecting Space Marines box with a grey gloss primer.

How screwed am I?

>> No.49781729

Not him or as good a painter, but they're the PCs from Zombicide Black Plague if you care to know

>> No.49781786

For the anon who was interested in the busts I ordered from an aliexpress seller.

The quality is quite good. There are lots of extremely small detail but there are no problems with it. The only problem I encountered is how the eyes of a couple of busts, as well as their lower lip, seem to lack a little material. Nothing that can't be fixed with a little white putty.

This is the first one (without some parts that are attached to it)

>> No.49781801

Second one. again, the little problems with the eyes and the lip. Also, the thing around the head is a little messy towards the end, but overall, very good quality again.

>> No.49781808

Last one (1/2). This was the most expensive one ($24). The detail is insane, and the cast quality seems to be absolutely perfect.

>> No.49781818

(2/2). It includes two heads. The eyes and lips are perfect this time.

>> No.49781856


>> No.49782166

Yet another average to badly painted IW, this time with added mud!

Just waiting for the base to dry to wash it and ardcoat it to give that nice wet mud effect.

>> No.49782183

Solid work anon.

>> No.49782263

I only need to do the reins, which she'll keep with her left hand.

But I'm doing those with a small chain after i painted things separately.

>> No.49782274

t. Taufag.

>> No.49782336


That looks really nice.

But for the love of god, fix all of those mould lines before you do anything else.

Then before you go to prime, examine the model closely, turn it around look for any more.

>> No.49782344

So I recently decided I'm gonna go full on and paint an army of guys for 40k, however I've barely painted and whenever I watch tutorials they seem to be so... advanced? (I like The War Gamer for example but I dunno what the hell half of the things he is doing are.) Do I need to start off going for excellent painting like he is? Or should I build up and just work on a few skills at a time?

>> No.49782356



GW has their own painting guides, simple to advanced.

>> No.49782366


Also, thin those paints mate, aim for a milk consistency, several layers, build up a colour, don't slap it all on at once.

>> No.49782694

Milk consistency? Either way I guess it shouldn't be completely opaque first coat then?

>> No.49782712

I think i am improving, how do i keep improving?

>> No.49782727

That's a really nice . gif, whoever made that should be proud

>> No.49782781

This is my first time blending/ doing a fire type effect. I know a few people dont like the green/brass armor with the bright flames but give me your criticisms!

>> No.49782788

Next step would be to mearn how to use glazes and some nice blending. Look up Painting Buddha, expert lzvel but it'll get you started then it's trial and errors and practice.

>> No.49782797


It's good, it just needs highlights in brighter versions of the colors you're using.

>> No.49782813

Because when I watch the tutorial videos it looks like it's at least making a consistant flat colour whereas when I try thinning it goes watery and splotchy and shit.

>> No.49782819



>> No.49782901

Does anyone know what colours to mix to make a rose gold? I was thinking Gold + Light bronze

>> No.49783246

He's an expert, if your paint is incredibly splotchy thats too watered down, take it down a notch

>> No.49783319

Highlights done so far aren't pictured, but I've highlighted the red and the double vibroblade for Kir Kanos. Do I need to highlight the black bodysuit at all?

>> No.49783378

Well thanks for the advice. I can only hope I get better.

>> No.49783420

>Do I need to highlight


>> No.49783427

Almost done, just need to attach his weapons, do a bit more weathering and he's done. Love painting death company.

>> No.49783457

Aren't the guy that started recently? Great progress!

>> No.49783481

Follow-up question: how and with what?

>> No.49783550

Same as the red, with a very dark gray. Some people use blue to highlight black, but i don't like the effect.

>> No.49783760

Does anyone know if GW ever used a red material for their older models? I've been stripping paint from some ebay landspeeders and underneath it all seems to be a red coat I can't get off, so I just want to check I'm not being silly and thats the actual model.

>> No.49783796

I find myself in need of a gray spray-on primer in order to do zenithal priming / pre-shading. I'm curious what brands of primer /wip/ uses.

>> No.49783812

If the models you're stripping at Blood Angels Terminators then they could be from the Space Hulk board game. Those were made out of red plastic. They also had odd shaped bases, but I suppose it's possible that someone cut the figures off of their bases so they could use them in a normal 40K army.

>> No.49783814

Some of the older boxed games like Space Hulk and Space Crusade used differently coloured models, but I can't recall a red land speeder off the top of my head.
That being said, some paints are nigh impossible to remove, especially base coats.
I soaked a few models in acetone for 36 hours once and still couldn't get the paint off 'em.

>> No.49783849


Not terminators, thanks though. Didn't they do that recently with the lost patrol game or whatever its called, with red scouts so you could play straight away?

Fair enough. I think it is coming off albeit very slowly, the only indication is a slight tinge to the fairy spray. Worst case is I miss out on some fine detail, but since it's a ravenwing army I'm making there'll be lots of other details on the others.

>> No.49783854

>36 hours
Jesus christ that guy must have painted with actual cement.

>> No.49783862

Anyone have suggestions on how to do wintery weathering for tanks? Geedub have that snow texture thing coming out but I'm not sure if that'd work well on a vehicle.

>> No.49784013

Go through the stuff in the OP links and see if the Citadel tank painting guide from like ten years ago is in there.
Also look for FWs Painting Masterclass books. Those are pretty advanced desu but they're a good read.
Failing all that go find a /hwg/ and find some historical modelling guides to mine for ideas.

>> No.49784033

Finally unpacked my half finished cities of death board after moving house and ready to start working on it again

>> No.49784045

My Terror Squad sergeants, plus Terror Squad mook. Two-handed-grip guy isn't magnetized, though in retrospect I probably could have made it work. I'll probably magnetize a weapon slot under his backpack for WYSIWYG.
Chainglaives are Grey Knight halberds kitbashed with CSM chainswords.

I've also been using the bladed shoulders from Dark Eldar kabalite warriors and knives from Dark Elf corsairs to add various arm blades to a few models. I think it makes 'em a bit more Night-Lordy.
I think I'm going to paint the beakie helmet black to make it a trophy taken from a Raven Guard.
I was going to do the same with a single MKVII chest plate, painting it in Emperor's Children colours, but forgot to use one during assembly. No big loss.

Current project is rebasing a bunch of previous edition Chaos Raptors onto 32mm bases. Thank goodness for dremel tools; saves a lot of time making slots. In theory.

>> No.49784063

And I forgot my picture.

Quite possibly.

>> No.49784190

Working on an Infardi from Gaunt's Ghosts but I'm stuck now. I know I need to highlight the green robe and weather the metals but they're all meant to be heavily tattooed and I'm afraid of fucking up his skin completely. Anyone have any tips?

>> No.49784215

Just be careful with your wash. Don't glob it on and let it run onto things you don't want washed. This is all just a matter of control.

>> No.49784273

Rollin', hopin' for Raptors.

>> No.49784286

Thanks! I'm just a painting scrub trying to improve.

>> No.49784352

His skin and robe have already been washed, I'm looking for tips on how to do tattoos specifically.

>> No.49784377

What army is best if I want to paint A LOT of human faces?
Also I hate cadian helmets so it really limits it...

>> No.49784397

Space wolves.

>> No.49784425

Limited to 40k or what?

Imperial guard with optional heads done by a different company?
Genestealers with focus on the human cultists?

You could paint up a horde of soviet conscripts for Bolt Action. Minis are roughly Cadian size, so you could even convert them with lasguns and some other 40k bits

>> No.49784710


The biggest difference will be having to do eyes and the face. Bigger means mistakes are more visible and you have to paint more detailed, but as a trade off you also have a lot more room to paint on which enables you to use techniques like wetblending which is hard on smaller scales.

>> No.49784802

Tempestus Scions using the beret'd heads are about as nice as GW produces short of Genestealer cults or 3rd party head swaps. There are also Victoria Lamb miniatures if price isnt an issue.

>> No.49784807

If i get a fun one i might add chip it between my current and next.

>> No.49784826

roll 1 d6

>> No.49784841


We love to rag on kits with bad mold lines, like the Berzerker kit and older SM kits. Just post it and we'll reminiscence together while arguing about which kit was the absolute worst. Gundams don't count obviously or there would be no competition at all.

>> No.49784846

p. embarrassing my man, it's in the sticky

>> No.49784848 [DELETED] 


>> No.49784868

Rolled 1 (1d6)


>> No.49784888

Haha, and you rolled a one. The Dice Gods do not look kindly upon you this day.

>> No.49784897


Just like you would any other paint, but it's just transparent. It's ideal for tinting like the others said, but also for creating smooth transitions in layers, as well as smoothing over harsh transitions between existing layers. They're pretty magical.

>> No.49784918

I'm actually up for trying a clean edge highlight, Bangles is friends of the BTemplars right?

>> No.49784959


Hawk Lords for the marines, they're fabulous like the old Emp's Children but they're raven guard successors so they're also all tacticool with a heavy focus on aerial based tactics.

>> No.49784983


They were eaten by Hive Fleet Leviathan in m37.

>> No.49784997


Looks really, really random and unrealistic. Look at some pictures of actual decrepit abandoned sea containers for a better feeling of where to place the wear and tear.

>> No.49785009


Compare older paintjobs to newer ones and see whether it is true would be your best bet. Look at your mistakes, look up on how to prevent them in the future or post your models here for C&C.

>> No.49785145


The red could actually do with some reddish orange highlights, it's not very visible right now so don't be afraid to put in a little more color.

In a lot of places like the boots, there seems to be black primer peeking through.

>> No.49785163


I think it came out pretty good, you really nailed the glow but the flash is making the model look a bit strange.

>> No.49785209


BT will back up any loyal servants of the Emperor, but they really fucking hate psykers with a passion (ironyyyy). They'll fight alongside brothers of the blood angels, they just don't like to be near librarians.

>> No.49785263

Where did you get those trees?

>> No.49785275

first model i've fully painted
am i shit

>> No.49785278

Gryphonne IV was, but afaik the Knights escaped and became fleetbound.

>> No.49785295

also the back

>> No.49785317


Has anyone heard from them since? Sounds like genestealer trickery to me.

>> No.49785456

Also - that feeling is because you are starting to notice your mistakes, which is a good thing. It means you are getting better

>> No.49785517

This would look much better if he wasn't fighing on Pepe's daemon world.

>> No.49785738

As said, the base needed a wash and a varnish. Hereshow it looking now. Better I hope?

>> No.49785799



The effect is nice but the armor itself is already almost black, with a black base with a black trim. You would have been better off going colorful or even just pale on the base.

>> No.49785801

I'm the poster of

These are 2 of my hexwraiths, one painted badly (first attempt at fire) and one a bit better, made with more layers.

The latter is obviously better than the former, but it's nowhere close to >>49778804 's pic.

How should I correct this?
And if I wanted to keep the fire the way it's on the left hexwraith, is it painted okay?

>> No.49785835

I still have to retouch a lot of things and fully finish all the armor, i'm doing averything in chunks because the model is magnetized to i have 2 heads and 2 sets of arms to match up so some things need to catch up, also i think i need to add a little heat glow on the sword guard by the blade.

>> No.49785844

Best leadbelcher spray equivalent that can be found at a store and not necessarily online in Canadialand? Recommendations?

>> No.49785853

I know, it's a recurrent problem and it pisses me off!

How would you fix it? Could it be that I leave too much glue when comes the assembly stage?

>> No.49785897


No, it's probably because you're too busy positioning the hands on the gun to look at the shoulders connecting properly. Use poster tack/malleable gum to do dryfitting before you even prime. Nothing wrong with using a little greenstuff to get the positioning right, but it has to be done before priming.

Get a drill and some paperclips while you're at it so you can saw arms into pieces and glue them back together in cool poses.

>> No.49785903

That sculpt is just lovely. Wow.

>> No.49786226

When I thin my paints it becomes a wash basically and I have to do like 6 layers for a base coat. What do?

>> No.49786309


I know the mud is realistic, but it reminds me of the black beans at Gloria's Salvadoran Restaurant.

>> No.49786369

Git gud

>> No.49786418

Is there a way to take apart a resin forgeworld model without risking breaking it by tearing the pieces off? I considered acetone to kill the superglue but I don't know what that would do to the resin.

>> No.49786498

It would melt it.

Not just warp, but melt. As in, you'd be left with a puddle of stringy, grey goo.

>> No.49786535

oh dear

>> No.49786599

Yep, by the time the glue melts you'd at best have a model ruined by a gentle poke with a finger, if not a decent slime proxy.

>> No.49786622

Well on a related not would that be a good way to simulate melta damage for a destroyed vehicle objective marker?

>> No.49786711

It breaks the bonds and pops the model apart.
Leave it in a sealed tubberware tub in there over night.

>> No.49786713


If you have any Liqiutex or Lahmian Medium, use that to dilute your paint until it's quite thin and translucent. I wouldn't recommend water for this, as it will become too runny and difficult to control.

Beyond that, painting tattoos is essentially no different than free-handing anything else. If it's a complex design, break it up into simpler geometric shapes and build up the design slowly.

Obviously, besides thinning the paint with a medium, apply it carefully and over multiple layers so you maintain translucency. Put it on too thick, and it will look like warpaint (which is totally valid, but it isn't the same as tattooing). If it comes out too strong, you could glaze over the tattoo with your original skin colour/thinned wash to tone it down.

Also, just out of curiosity, are you planning on making an army of Infardi or just this one mini? I've always thought they were a cool concept, and it's a shame that they tend to be completely overshadowed by the Blood Pact in terms of Sabbat Crusade Chaos army collections.

>> No.49786744

Get a very fine sharpie

>> No.49786852

The good thing about busts is how they fill them with emotion and beautiful elements. The wizard, for example, has an owl on its shoulder. The first one is called "after the battle", and even though it can't be seen in the picture I took, it has a saddened and realy tired look. This is another one that I want to buy whenI finish my current ones.

>> No.49786886

If you add paint retarder (for example, Vallejo's), you can easily erase any mistake with water

>> No.49786908

That was me. Thanks for posting.
Detail looks really nice.

Now my only concern is that i can't paint something like this properly.

>> No.49787161

Keep in mind they are huge, without parts that are really hard to reach.

>> No.49787169

As a mentally stunted 40kid, I'd never realized there were minis out there that work as pieces of sculpture, with the aesthetic and emotional scope of that artistic form. It's just lovely, that's the only word I have. I eagerly await your bust projects, anon.

>> No.49787188

Thanks buddy, I'll keep that in mind!

I already have everythint you mentionned and have done a little tweak to break the BaC standard pose routine.

>> No.49787192

Please help a beginner out

>> No.49787328

That looks exactly like my grandfather, that's fucking surreal.

>> No.49787331

In the example you give, the cloth isn't fire-y. There are some fire parts that shed light on the cloth. the orange glow in the example you give is more subtle. Also, more orange-ish. It is also softer,.

>> No.49787342

>As a mentally stunted 40kid, I'd never realized there were minis out there that work as pieces of sculpture, with the aesthetic and emotional scope of that artistic form.

Emperor's Teeth, anon! I bet you didn't also, know, then, that there were such pieces crafted from the lore of WH40K and WHFB universes!

>> No.49787357

Don't go straight from cloth black into flame. Have a hard line of ash grey before the flames start. Also start with the lightest colors of the flame - white and yellow - before tipping it with orange, red, and black.

>> No.49787372

alright i need some advise a few month back i got my hands on these meltas/plasma guns and i wanna use them with my Cadian models anyone has a good idea how i could get them onto my models. (only the meltas for now) by now i am trying to combine them with the two arms as shown on the photo but bevore i cut up more unnecessary things and might ruin them id like some input. the melta so far fits although there are some gaps (might work if i cut a bit of the melta backside) at the shoulders and the handle, so i guess i won't get along without any greenstuff

>> No.49787378

Whoops, meant to reply to >>49787192

>> No.49787407

I have nothing against the bigger models, but I have fun trying to get lots of detail into a tiny model.

>> No.49787419

Should we tell him?

>> No.49787445

>Space Wolf


>> No.49787595

Are you guys ready to say good bye to your wallets?

>> No.49787744

Very nice for a first model.
What you should be looking Into next is removing mould-lines on the miniatures, (they naturally appear after sculpting) and high-lighting. Just hit the edges of the model with the belly of the brush.

>> No.49787801

Chevrons are hard to paint, you're on a solid path to becoming good at this.

>> No.49787862


Nah, it's not that hard. First you draw two lines with really medium thinned black paint until you have two nice black lines exactly where you want them. Then fill in it in black.

>> No.49787873

First time painting. Any tips?

>> No.49787891

2 more

>> No.49787916

No idea how to do skin tone. Should I strip it and start over?

>> No.49787953


You're close. Find a good wash and try it out.

>> No.49787963

Just cover everything with a middle color, then apply a wash (watered down paint is not a wash). Finally, apply some highlights without drybrushing

>> No.49787969

>Squad of Karsrkins
>81 MOTHERFUCKING...oh yeah kiwis dollars
For a secons I forgot it wasn't in pounds. Why is it that NZ and Australia's website are always the firsts with the new stuff?

And I just took a trip to Nostalgialand.

>> No.49787983

I already used mournfang brown for the lighting shed by the fire on the cloth, should I add the grey under the brown layer or over?
Also why should I paint the light spots firsts? Isn't that the opposite of layering?

I know, I want to get my edges of the cloth to look like the color of the flames in the example?

>> No.49788002

Does anyone have tips for painting scripture? I'm painting Word Bearers but I can't get the scripture small enough. My paint also dries incredibly fast on my smaller brushes.

>> No.49788044

>I know, I want to get my edges of the cloth to look like the color of the flames in the example?

Then jsut tone it down and make it brown->orange->mix of orange and yellow instead of a LOT of red-orange-yellow

>> No.49788059

paint retarder, maybe

>> No.49788083

I read something wrong. Get to yellow at the end of the gradient.

>> No.49788110


Micron ink pens and patience or expensive brushes, medium thinned paint and a lot of practice.

>> No.49788120

Same as in the hhg thread anon.

Try very very thin black pens. I think they're called micron or something like that.

https://youtu.be/MjQS4houOb8 [Open]

When in doubt, look to based Duncan. Start at 5.20.

>> No.49788131

>Why is it that NZ and Australia's website are always the firsts with the new stuff?
it's because of him, anon, thank him...

>> No.49788148

What wash would you recommend? I've just been using watered down apple barrel paint for washes

>> No.49788198

Anything brownish should do. If you just water down paints, the result is dirty, since the wash doesn't create a smooth shading. So you either buy washes from GW (best ones I have tried) or use some thinner (vallejo sells it in small or big dropper bottles) instead of water

>> No.49788246

I can vouch for microns. They are good for writing on paint because the tip is a soft, flexible tube rather than a ballpoint.
For large, solid designs (tried them for decorative marking on ork shirts once) the finish is slightly but noticeably more glossy than black acrylic paint, but they are perfectly suited to script on scrolls and banners.

>> No.49788256

My new airbrush arrives on Sunday.

What are the odds I will discover something I forgot to buy that will prevent me from using it at all?

>> No.49788262

Jokes on you I already have 27 kasrkin and
>METAL models

>> No.49788338

There's a Duncan video on exactly this.

>> No.49788339

How long does it usually take you anons to paint a mini? Focusing on 1 guardsman usually takes me after priming, from base,to layer, to shade without highlights, 3 hours.

>> No.49788354

>Metal models
Oh me oh my.

>> No.49788395

How do I rebase glued models from their bases? They're either plastic-glued to shitty GW old texture paint-topped bases, or superglued. Do I just take a scalpel to try dig their feet out?

>> No.49788424

Either that or try to dissolve the glue.

>> No.49788430

Well if I don't stop it's probably 3 or 4 hours from cutting up the sprues to finishing the base which I do last for a model like>>49785738. Then again there are washes, the base needs to dry, then wait for wash for the base to dry and then varnish it.
So I'd say in effective painting time I'm at 3 hours, if not 2 and a half.

>> No.49788482

Depends. Are they metal and do you care about the base? If they are and you don't care, just dunk it in acetone and have a clean mini with just some plastic goo at its feet to start over.

If you want to keep the base and it's superglued, freezer can help break the bonds. Can't do shir for plastic glue, you'll have to ruin the model's soles.

>> No.49788498

Are you trying to save the bases as well, or just the models?

>> No.49788521

Plastic models, I wanna save the models, not the bases, tried shitty GW texture paint and it's garbage. Just dug one out now and it hasn't got damaged. Phew.

>> No.49788594

Also any ideas for a brick/cobble base for Space Marines? Ideas in general, I've greenstuffed up a brick-textured street base, should it be wartorn with rubble, clean for like a parade, etc. What materials would people recommend? Is stuff like sand suitable to act as crumbled debris if it is wartorn?

>> No.49788607

Worst case scenario: use cutters to clip away the bases piece by piece, then use a coarse file to get the final bits off the feet. Or carefully use a hobby knife.

>> No.49788654

I've basically finished my Royal Guard Champion for Imperial Assault, but I slipped and got ardcoat somewhere I didn't want it, and it's pretty obvious. Do I need to re-spray the whole thing with matt varnish, or is there something I can do to fix just the mistake?

>> No.49788690

get thin hollow rods of plasticard and cut them into halves, then break the halves into pieces a few cms long- you now have gutters

>> No.49788714

cut thin hollow tubes of plasticard piping into halves, then cut the sections into short pieces. embed these in your cobbled road and you now have gutters

>> No.49788728

sorry i had a BSOD as I posted and the refresh didnt show my post

>> No.49788734

holy fucking shit, i just read the OP bit on ventilation - what GW products fucking do that? jesus christ

if i get this water based paint on my skin does it still do that? what about airbrushing, and i breathe it in - that has no solvent? i use a mask for when spraying primer. this has scared the bejeez out of me

>> No.49788897

The non-toxic acrylic paints and washes are pretty safe if you are just brushing them on. Use ventilation whenever working with any glue or plastic cement (ESPECIALLY plastic cement) and when using any vanishes or weird stuff. You could drink the non-toxic paint and it wouldn't cause you too much harm, but it might still make you sick in other ways.

Goes without saying, but never use spraycans indoors. They sell these vent hoods to make airbrushing indoors safer, but I would just airbrush outside. If you are putting weird stuff in the airbrush, wear gloves. You might also want gloves even when not putting weird stuff just so your hands don't end up covered in paint.

If you ever feel dizzy, lightheaded, or otherwise impaired, get fresh air immediately and when you've had a breather open windows and vent your painting station.

>> No.49788906

It's acrylic paint ya dingus it's completely harmless.
The only dangerous stuff is sniffing glue but even toddlers know that, strong alchohol based stuff, like acetone, wear gloves, open windows and dispose of it safely and finally spray priming which should be done with windows open or ideally outside.

>> No.49788974

airbrushing acrylic paint without ventilation can both make a mess and screw up your lungs over time from inhaling paint particulates

>> No.49789034

Why is starting over so expensive?

>boat loads of simple green
>paints for whole armies
>new brushes
>so much fucking super glue
>get a can of primer that doesn't make it dusty

My guys look fine on the table, why is it eating at me to start over from a thick shit 7 year old paint job on 2 armies? I don't even have the time to paint a lot. God damn it /wip/ you've set my standard too high for a skill set I do not have.

>> No.49789037

Eh, I don't have the luxury of a good enough weather for airbrushing so it's a no go anyway for me.
But I'll keep it in mind if I move to a more suited place.

>> No.49789071

you can buy an indoor vent hood for airbrushing that goes in your window. Just combine it with a dust mask and some gloves

>> No.49789126

>Reuse old simple green/dettol, no need to throw it away each tomz a model os clean
>clean your brushes with brish soap, it's almost a miracle
>Fair point for paints, but plan in advance and don't buy what you don't need
>Use plastic glue, revell's plastic glue little thingy lasts for several armies
>Get a black brush primer from Vallejo, takes more time, but can do a lot more model without any other incovenient

As to skill, it comes with practice. Just think about what you do and how to get better. A good very small brush can also help a lot. I basically use 3 brushes to do everything now. 1 to base the texture paint and brush prime, 1 to basecoat, layer and wash and 1 last to do extremely small details like lenses.

>> No.49789315

I made them with woodland scenics trees and their fall colors foliage.

Also updates, what you guys think so far?

>> No.49789346

Hory shit, dats pretty.

>> No.49789360

when im painting (for usually about an hour at a time) i have sunlight coming in onto my workstation, right onto my paint rack. where i live its usually between 15c and 30c outside. my question is, will this direct sunlight damage my paints? i find the setup convenient and i'd hate to have to rearrange it.

>> No.49789414

hey dudes

i found an Orruks box I bought back when they were first released and never built, tryina paint them up as spooky ghost-orcs in heavily worn armor

the oxidation effect on the armor looks better IRL, but how could i improve the ghost effect?

>> No.49789431

one from the front

>> No.49789456

Do any bits retailor have better looking cadian heads?
I hate the new helmets, but I want to retain the sci fi theme and not give them a M1 or m36

>> No.49789485


Forge World Cadian hazardous environment heads

>> No.49789486

try anvil industries, or kromlech, or a bunch of others

>> No.49789500


Don't store paints in direct sunlight.

>> No.49789620

if it's superglued, pop em in the freezer for a couple hours, then use a scalpel to get in a few milimeters between the model and base, then something like a file to try to lever it out

worked for me but i was doing nurglings

>> No.49790360


>> No.49790390

>storing an x-acto in a OOP tuff-stuff eraser


>> No.49790444

how come I barely ever see Necrons on WIP?

I want some love for my rusty skeletal niggas

>> No.49790526 [DELETED] 

I'm in the process of building/magnetizing a pair of Calth Contemptor dreads.
The thing is, I need the magnetized bits to be be just the weapons, not the whole arm/shoulder, since I'm also magnetizing a FW conversion beamer.

If anyone here has tried something similar, would I need to glue the BaC weapons, fully assembling them, before making a cut to do the magnets?
I just don't see how I'd manage it withe them unassembled.

>> No.49790663

fenrisian grey

>> No.49791060

Because they're so simple people are really critical of them. Also unless someone does a cool effect no one feels it's worth posting. Also no one plays them.

>> No.49791071

Didn't have a chance to paint his week, so here's last week's model again.

>> No.49791149

This green is death world forest right?

>> No.49791162

Pretty much.

>> No.49791182

Okay thanks, last question.
This blue is the fang? I can't really tell.

>> No.49791309

Thanks bud. Final updoot for tonight. Still gotta do the silver lining on his clothes and a sepia wash on all the ruffles to give them some age but I think ol' slendy is coming along nice. Should I keep the tentacles reddish or should I drybrush the same off white for his skin over them?
Suggestions on dress colors for the little girl?

>> No.49791317

>forgets the picture like a retard.

>> No.49791361

The flesh effects you already have are gorgeous. I'm not sure about the girl. Maybe yellow? That would contrast pretty well, I think.
Is it a sun dress?

>> No.49791382


>> No.49791390

Pale yellow or pale blue are both good contrasting colors and classic sun dress colors.

>> No.49791408

oh no it's just the hobby knife that i bought has that style grip

>> No.49791429

I finished one third of my munitorium crates kit.
i think i went way too hard on the weathering.
dry pigments are difficult to use. I should watch some tutorials.

>> No.49791462

Just looks like a normal dress imo. Thank you for the kind words on the skin I was worried people wouldn't think it looked right considering I haves used that combo in a while.

>> No.49791544

Nihilakh necrons and ceramic necrons are usually impressive though

>> No.49791631

Looks nice anon, fits the style you have going.

>> No.49792047

Hey WIP anons, I'm looking for some advice. I'm gonna start painting my Mighty Lord of Khorne, and I want to make part of his cloak look like brown leather, but I don't know which part (top or bottom) would look better.

My Khorne dudes are pretty muted in colors, with dirty metal armor and browns/grays/etc for clothes. I want to make my Lord's cape red because Khorne, but it has two distinct sections on the model. I want to make the other half a brown leather appearance.

Do you guys think it will look better with the bottom (and inside) of the cape being leather, with the top part over his shoulders being red cloth in a decorative sort of way, or should the red cloth cape be underneath, with a leather part on top for a more practical, protection from the elements way?

Pic showing the two parts for reference.

>> No.49792079

I'll stop being lazy sometime to make a white box, but for the couple models how do you pick out primer that isn't ass.

>> No.49792080

The top section of the cloak is more irregular, and has rings in it, which would make more sense for leather. The lower part of the cloak is more wavy and uniform, like a textile.

>> No.49792141

did you drybrush the entire model silver or is it just the light

>> No.49792190

The light's just exposing my attempt at edge highlighting, and some spots where paint got rubbed off being manhandled.

It's better looking at a distance.

>> No.49792197


>> No.49792287

What's the best way to clean up the edges of a base if I accedentally painted over it? 8 can scratch it off with my nails but that's kinda dumb, and an exacto starts cutting into the plastic. Would a sponge work?

>> No.49792288

Rolled 47 (1d100)


>> No.49792297


>matte grey

>> No.49792556

Thanks anons, sorry for late reply but I went to bed.

I'll give my vallejo drying retardant and some lahmian medium a try.

To answer >>49786713, at most I'm planning a kill team of them, I just re-read honour guard and I really liked how they were described in it.

>> No.49792782

Got some 2" threaded tubing I can grab from work. Think some sort of terrain could be made from it?

>> No.49792828

Silos come to mind, you could also split the pipe in half to make channels of some sort.

>> No.49792841


That might work. I meant to post the pic. It's getting tossed into the dumpster tomorrow.

>> No.49792845

What brush should I use to stipple fleshtone at the edges of warpaint to make it looked chipped?

Also when I highlight warpaint should I use regular flesh highlights if I want it to look cracked, or should that be more the job of stippling?

>> No.49792868

Looks like it'd belong in a power plant or engine room.

>> No.49792882

i recommend using a piece of sponge for stippling.

>> No.49792887


Maybe, though they're big. Like, 5-10' long with a 2" diameter. So they'd be more part of structure than inside one

>> No.49792946

Yellow or light blue, there's plenty of red already and it would make her seem less innocent, she wouldn't pop with green and purple would be too dark/ close to red if light.
Personally I'd go with light blue.

>> No.49793017

Just finished up my Armies on Parade display for tomorrow. Hope it turns out better than the lighting where I took these shitty pics

>> No.49793048

Even on skin? Same premise?

>> No.49793058

Nice dred mob! Paint job looks decent (Deffskullz? If so, represent!) and I actually like the warm lighting.

>> No.49793110

Same here

>> No.49793146

Yar it's deffskulls. I like a heavy weathering style that kills the colors in this lighting.

>> No.49793258

Tried some new stuff like the blood splatter which looks a lot better in person and the white mohawk. I'm still struggling with the shoulder details in white and gotta clean up the blue a lot.

I'll probably get BFTBG tech paint to get the gorey look for the bloody areas.

I'm happy with how it came out though with my Abb Black / Meph Red mix on the knife arm.

>> No.49793274

Tips on making a shitty army look better on a table?

I just gave the yellowing snow of my really old guard models a one over with white and a very soft blue wash. They all kinda pop more as a group and look much cleaner.

I think the armor paint is a bit thick to wash and highlight but I'll try it

>> No.49793335

Jesus did he shove his whole arm through someone?

>> No.49793451

Someone huge, I bet.

>> No.49793467

That was the idea

What better way to make sure they're dead than to punch and rip through them.

Actually I was just thinking that he stabbed someone so hard that he picked them up as he's impaled them and the blood began pouring down his arm.

>> No.49793494

Where's the girl from?

>> No.49793653

i fucked up on the assembly on this model, at least the paint is ok

>> No.49793667

I still have touch ups to do

>> No.49793945

I mean that doesn't even really seem possible, if you think about it. With body organs, cartilage and bones

I mean im no doctor but it was like one clean chunk

>> No.49793954

You know the rules

>> No.49794111

I've just started painting. I've been using cheap Walmart paints. Would I be able to mix this with those points to make a wash or should I look for something else?

>> No.49794119

I prime base and paint it black

>> No.49794171

If you are going to make washes from walmart paints using thnner I would at least try to use thinner from a brand that sells hobby products

>> No.49794580

Privateer press, go to their store and search "nightmare"

>> No.49794767

just an fyi you should use the citadel technical Blood for the Blood God paint for the blood effect

>> No.49794792

That's what I said i'd do :V

I'll probably just redo the paint, it's easy enough to fix.

>> No.49794932

Is painting Imperial Fist yellow as hard as people keep telling me? They're probably the best legion for me, on account of the Templars not existing back then.

>> No.49794949

i can paint yellow with proper basing. red is my bane though.

>> No.49794973

New thread?

>> No.49794989

yellow a shit

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