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42655548 No.42655548 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

WIP - No One Knows Where This Guy Came From But Oh Well Edition

Citadel Painting Guides:


Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Videos, Visions and White Dwarves:




>> No.42655590
File: 1.17 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20150922_004824.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My effort for a Tau Onager gauntlet. Think hybrid between "Impact Hammer" and Flak Cannon from unreal tournament

>> No.42655631

>WIP - No One Knows Where This Guy Came From But Oh Well Edition
Could ask on CMON. These guys are pretty good with identifying obscure minis.

>> No.42655713
File: 799 KB, 758x1290, fft_priest.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

You really should paint some white mage triangle things on there.

>> No.42655742

Those hands are almost Fable tier.
Wft. lel

>> No.42655847

That looks pretty cool! (and also like a pain in the ass to put together. kudos)

>> No.42655912
File: 1.20 MB, 1944x2592, IMG_20150921_175021.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Thoughts? My second model finished(?)

>> No.42655949

He looks mad

>> No.42655957

did a really good job in general, little thick on the tabard highlights, the face is a bit too pink but otherwise great

>> No.42655978

Not bad for your second model.
Face looks a little flushed. Like he was caught red handed doing something naughty or being drunk.

Maybe you could give line highlighting a try and see how you like the look. Would help give the model a bit more contrast and definition. Usually looks better from a few feet away that way.

>> No.42656125
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Got a bit more done on this fellow.

>> No.42656140
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Need to finish up sevatar

>> No.42656162
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I have wayyy to many models I need to finish up right now. And all I want to do is start more.

>> No.42656281
File: 400 KB, 1296x968, IMG_1070[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Dont you hate ruining a nice conversion with bad painting?

>Every time i try to fix his face i make it worse

please kill me

>> No.42656357

strip and start again

>> No.42656387

Why would my next attempt be any better, i havent learned anything from my first three failures

>> No.42656452

>No One Knows Where This Guy Came From But Oh Well Edition
He almost looks like a conversion of the original Skaven Globadiers.

>> No.42656476

practice makes perfect

>> No.42656489

Ive been painting for 3 years

If anything ive been slowly getting worse at painting

>> No.42656537
File: 985 KB, 2037x1876, hector_vs_beekee_dated.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Ive been painting for 3 years
>If anything ive been slowly getting worse at painting

Keep at it m8! It can take a long time for only a modest improvement!

>> No.42656557


Solid metal... Will try CMON

>> No.42656980
File: 441 KB, 1469x1959, IMG_2149.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

these don't look like recasts do they? guy says they aren't

>> No.42657069
File: 191 KB, 784x1586, johnny_the_foe_are_many.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>these don't look like recasts do they? guy says they aren't

I doubt it. Aren't those models in the front the Deathwing Terminators from Dark Vengeance? why would you go through the trouble to recast something so cheap and plentiful?

>> No.42657119

The Centurions I mean, they just look shiny like they're made of Resin. But now that you mention it he did say the Termies were from DV and they look the same.

>> No.42657297


Goblin shaman by Four A miniatures


>> No.42657329
File: 79 KB, 600x800, Front Detail 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Still working on my Nyarlathotep Lord of Change. Modeled his shoulder to look like a horror is forming out of the flesh on his collarbone/shoudler/upper back.


>> No.42657349
File: 103 KB, 600x800, Side Detail 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]



>> No.42658513

What paints/method did you use to do that purple armor? I've found purple difficult to get looking that good, wouldn't mind knowing how you pull it off.

>> No.42658551

Best way to strip primer from plastic?

>> No.42658618


Two soaks in Pinesol/Simple Green with vigorous toothbrush scrubbing in between does the trick for me, though it depends on your primer. I've have some that just slide off with one while others will stay on that model no matter how much you soak.

>> No.42658659
File: 816 KB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

This is my first time posting in a mini thread, and this is the first mini I've ever painted.

The plan is to replace the shield's gold trim with the same blue as the tabard, and make the fur edgings/accessories brown and black, respectively.

Input? Thoughts? Condemnations for failure?

>> No.42658685
File: 126 KB, 515x1000, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


I don't know why iPhone insists on flipping pictures when I post here, it's quite frustrating. Anyway, here's what I'm trying to evoke - a LG Hellknight of the Torrent in the new Paizo adventure path.

>> No.42658718


Mix up some of your metal colors. Right now everything is too samey.

Then consider a wash and some drybrushing to make things pop better.

>> No.42658837


A wash is using really watered down paint and just painting on details, right? I was considering doing that on the breastplate and helm.

>> No.42658949

Alright, I at the very least need it to remove the chalkyness of my primer :(

>> No.42659232
File: 2.27 MB, 2501x1836, 20150921_212826-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Found these IMEF Reaper Bones figures for half off, thought they looked ok so Im going to make a 10 man unit of them. No idea what im doing with the paint, my army is mostly various greys so I thought Id make them a little darker. Pretty neat models, messy as hell in some areas though, like underneath legs and behind guns where the sculptor just didnt bother.

>> No.42660139
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Not sure what I want to do with his collar/ruff thing, the project colours are Orange and Purple for his main colours, and light blue is going to be used to balance on the terrain (light blue glow to the runes). Any ideas?

>> No.42660328

I'd probably paint it to look like the jacket has a purple inner lining, leaving 1mm or so of black around the edge as the seam between the outer black and the inner purple.

>> No.42660406

So would you aim for his little jester collar thing to be black, but the inside of his coat to be purple? At the moment the inside of his coat is black, to contrast the white and diamond outside parts of his coat. Do you think that purple would work inside, or would it throw the orange/purple balance off?

>> No.42660417

> finished(?)

Its only finished after you did the base.
You could highlight the red of the weapons a bit more and maybe add a bit of lighter blue to the plasma pistol.
The metal areas of the weapons look a little bit plain too.

Keep up the good work anon. It looks very good for your 2nd miniature.

>> No.42660449
File: 758 KB, 2592x1552, 2015-09-22 08.31.55.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Is there a way to fix his wonky axe?

>> No.42660486

is it plastic resin or metal?

>> No.42660492

looks like finecrap

>> No.42660529

>tfw you will never be a good painter
>tfw you will never be rich enough to pay good painter to paint your shit

I'm sure I've gotten worse at painting since I started.

>> No.42660563
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Like this I think, leaving the outside black and little border for that leather look.

>> No.42660582

microwave some water for two minutes and hold the piece under water for 10-15 seconds, then bend it into shape.

>> No.42660608

Fair enough, I assume you would do it to the underside of the coat tails as well/ what about the back side of it? Leave that black? And finally, I feel that the jester's collar below i needs some sort of thing to make it 'pop', but I am stuck for inspiration. I was thinking that sky blue could work (as the overall composition has orange-violet-light blue as the colour combination) but I wasn't sure if I want to keep the blue to just the base so that the figure pops from the scene.

As might be obvious from the other stuff on the table, I normally do historic stuff. Science fiction with wild colour schemes isn't really my comfort zone.

>> No.42660626

You could just touch the bells or whatever they are with the blue.

>> No.42660651

So purple inner lining, black jester's collar, blue bells? Seems like it could work.

>> No.42660794
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Those are plastics. I own a lot of recasts and their surface isn't that even to give them that smooth shine.

Awesome stuff, very the thingish.

What the other anon said. Dip it into hot water and bend it any way you'd like. Might take a couple of runs to make it settle, though.

Okay, i'm having an internship and a couple of papers on my hands right now so i can't really commit to any bigger projects. So i've decided to do three nurgle terminators. Coming up is some green stuff goodness, especially some spore plumes for all of them.

>> No.42660795
File: 428 KB, 1280x720, 20150922_030837.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Today I finally got around to basing and priming my other two Vargeists. Not sure when I'll get around to painting them since I've already got a huge backlog of primed or half-painted models, but it's progress at least.

>> No.42660833
File: 45 KB, 600x752, 1378185741962.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So I need some slave/loafing girls to adorn larger bases

Where can I get something like slaves on the old raider models? Bonus where I can get 28mm scale chairs/tables/couches

>> No.42660840

Pretty sure hasslefree has some harm girls.

>> No.42660870

wow thanks, didn't expect a reply that fast

>> No.42661044


Kind of a shame that Dark Angels have to ally another SM chapter to get Centurions.

>> No.42661152

>Hot water
>then bend it into shape
Not that anon, but i'm having trouble with this technique.
I tried this with an Autarch's star lance and straightened the sucker out. I kept it flat under a book and left it overnight. The next day it was straight, cooled and sturdy, and I fixed it to my model.
Within a few days it was sagging and when the week was out it was back to its original S-curve shit.

Fuck resin, seriously. Is there another way I can resolve this?

>> No.42661200

another way to do it is to straighten it, then cut the shaft somewhere halfway in where the bend would be, and put a pin in there

>> No.42661210
File: 676 KB, 2048x1536, DSCN9309.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Now that I've got the first couple layers down on these two, might as well fish for feedback.

I'm planning to get the dark green on Jain Zar's sash built up and highlighted, then finish Farsight's panoply of aerials with a mix of grey and white. Any thoughts?

>> No.42661228

How would you guys do chem-dogs? i really do t know what colour i want to do their fatigues and vehicles especially

>> No.42661240
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This is getting along. There's some hazard stripes, posters and cleaning up left, as well as some water effects.

>> No.42661258
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>> No.42661303


There is no thing such as pure resin. resin is a mixture of several components. each company mixes its stuff a little bit different, so if you are unlucky, you got some really bad or fucked up mixture and it will stay bad.

>> No.42661316

fatigues are brown on these pics.

The article also says they are good in city fighting, so painting their vehicles in that way might be a good idea.

>> No.42661358

Paint them the way YOU want. They are your dudes after all.

There is no reason to believe a regiment in the 40k universe would wear only one type of uniform, no matter where they fight.

If they are send to a forest, they wouldn`t run around in blue-grey urban camo, but in an urban enviroment they probably would.

Think about on what planet you want your dudes to fight and design them accordingly. There is a reason why there are exemplar pictures of notable guard regiments in all sorts of camo patterns.

>> No.42661414
File: 114 KB, 528x960, fucked up resin.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

That's not really how it works, if resin isn't mixed right then you would know it from it leaking oil and looking marbled. That and I don't think GW has changed its resin in quite a while.

>> No.42661424

Thanks, will try it out when i can. Will the water not affect the paint?

>> No.42661438

Shouldn't do, but bending will most likely.

>> No.42661441

There is a difference between a wrong mixture and a right one and between a "good" mixture and a perfect one.

>> No.42661682

Let me tell you something from my workplace. We do injection molding.

Technically, the mixture is always the same. In reality its some underpaid dude like myself mixing it. Sometime the mixture is bad, but still good enough to be used. (because telling the boss that there are 150kg of granulate wasted is worse than throwing away 1 out of every 50 pieces because they are to warped from softener).
Sometimes you get a 25 kg bag of bad material from your supplier and you have to send the whole 10 tons of granulate bag because it might all be contaminated. Sometimes you can`t because the parts are urgently needed in the production so you use that stuff anyway.

If we start a machine after setting it up with a new tool we are supposed to stay next to the machine and check every part that comes out for the first 50 injections. (we do parts for medical machines used in hospitals, so thats rather strict).
Having stress often causes the workers to check maybe 10 and then doing something else, coming back later and throwing away one or two hand full and leaving the rest as it is.
I can't remember the last time i really checked the whole 50 under the microscope like i am supposed to.

I can only imagine a company like GW (well known for its greed) is paying even worse and having certainly worse quality standards than a supplier of medical equipment.

So saying, "they haven`t changed their mixture" means basically nothing.

>> No.42662131

Dude, I've good news for you. The fact that you can realise your work is currently shit shows that you have possibly improve your perception of what good work is.
That right there is improvement.
The next step is get over the whole "my work is so shit, ahbloobloobloo" crap and realise every. single. artist in the world who made it had to go through that phase.
I was watching a very nice documentary the other day about Da Vinci and how people seem to forget that for 16 fucking years, he just vanished into mediocrity, working his ass off to get good.

Point is, you're improving. Sometimes it's the brain that does it, sometimes it's the physical skills. Now you need to absorb what it is that better artists do that you need to be doing.
And then get practising!

For me, I haven't painted in several years, but last time it happened, when I did pick up my brush, I had actually improved my skills! Beause I had thought long and hard about what I wanted to do, technically.
Right now I want to do some NMM and OSL. I know how to do it in traditional media, but I never tried on a mini. So instead of diving head in and setting myself up for disappointment, I'm researching the damn thing and I'm practising on the computer my rendering (shiny surface, lighting, etc). Hopefully that'll at least set me up for something not too horrible, because I'll have a battle plan besides "paint it grey, with shadows and highlights".

Also being in a stimulating environment of peers is a great way to improve and stay motivated, so you're in the right place.

Now get to it!

>> No.42662155

That dark red on the Tau suit is absolutely fantastic, mate. I love it! So smooth, it really works without being visually distracting like you usually see.

>> No.42662201
File: 990 KB, 2136x711, Lord Castellant WIP.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Going to base and add some of the smaller details soon but this is my Sigmarine Torch Holder so far.

>> No.42662408


Needs highlights on the green, the beard is pretty high up on the face, plasma pistol glow, shading the metals properly, going over the cloak highlights with a mix of the base and the highlight colors to smooth out the transitions, metal on those things on the backpack but overall it's pretty good.

>> No.42662463

Looks pretty sick dude.
Would love if you could post a tutorial on how you made it

>> No.42662508
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All my finished stuff! Just feel like putting photos up

>> No.42662529
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>> No.42662541
File: 1.10 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

aaaand the guard

>> No.42662552

Brother Vinnie has a 'victims' range...

erm. yeah.
And you can get furniture from 4grounds.

>> No.42662600


Pretty good, just need some pupils imo

>> No.42662603

Don't believe those guys, the face is amazing. And if they think that's too red they have never seen a sarge yelling at something.

>> No.42662620

Looking good, although a little bit plain, some Highlights wouldn't hurt. But still, pretty good!

Cool shit, especially the tanks. Do you just store them on top of that board? Must get dusty pretty quick.

>> No.42662742

yeah i need to get into the highlights they are pretty much all 'tabletop ready' but i do have alot left to do. they are stored there but the dust doesn't seem to be much of a problem, i put them like this to motivate me to paint the rest of my guard and the beginning of my daemons :P


>> No.42662962

>two coats of testors dullcote later
>still shiny

I'm so fucking sick of trying to find a matte varnish that actually works. I either get ones that do fucking nothing or ones that do matte, but also frost up fucking terribly.

>> No.42663078


I brush on Panduro matte, works perfectly. Don't use spray cans, half the time they have shit results or completely wreck your shit.

>> No.42663146

I've tried both bottled and spray cans.

>> No.42663168


I hear liquitex is quite good too, but panduro is pretty cheap and kinda awesome. I do 2 coats of gloss and 1 coat of matte. I threw a dark vengeance test marine into a wall which was above a stairwell. Not a scratch on it.

>> No.42663219

>I hear liquitex is quite good too
Liquitex matte varnish is literally one of the ones I've used which ruined a couple of my models, which is especially annoying because literally every one of their other products I've used including their gloss varnish has been great.

>> No.42663241

Using just paint and water gives bad result. You have to use specific wash paints or add thinner

>> No.42663456

looks great even with a tiny picture

>> No.42663491

They definitely do recast DV models

>> No.42663529


A friend of mine, pretty good painter, uses AK Interactive matte varnish applied with an airbrush. Looks so good, the first time I've seen his models, I though they were not varnished at all.

>> No.42663576
File: 77 KB, 384x313, shrug.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Do you guys basecoat your metallics? Like itf you're going to paint something in metal, would you do grey first? If brass, would you brown?

I find it doesn't make a difference whether I do or not, so I usually just go straight for the metallics and save time.

>> No.42663618

Depends on how messy I was before I get around to metals.
Most metals look better over black. For gold I'd consider basing brown.

>> No.42663862
File: 88 KB, 400x356, cloth.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Help me please. I need some kind of flag/cloth to attach to this. Where kind I get one?

>> No.42663913

Bretonnian knights have big banners with ends that split into four. Easily able to cut one banner up into 4 thin billowy strands like you drew.

>> No.42664015

Nice soldier token, i really want that one for my collection.

>> No.42664080

For dirty metal it's always drybrush warplock bronze> drybrush leadbelcher> AGRAX EARTHSHADE > light drybrush of leadbelcher again and then pick out some of the edges in runefang steel.

That's how i do it anyway.

>> No.42664484


Thank you. Does anyone have general advice for painting bone minis?

>> No.42664530
File: 782 KB, 3090x1751, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Washes and Drybrushing, the model.
Expect to hear from me at the end of the decade.

>> No.42664531

You can make one out of a piece of folded over paper. The catch is to make sure the pallet is wet enough to manipulate. When it's dry, coat it with matte varnish to seal and protect.

>> No.42664553

Also note that there are composition differences between paints.

Talking by experience, Vallejo inks, game washes and model washes are different.

Inks are liquid but with a lot of pigment. As the name says they are like ink.

Game Color Washes have less pigments and these are pulled to the deeper zones when the wash dries.

Model washes seem to be much more liquid and are pulled by capillarity easily, meaning they are good for such things as armor piece separations.

These differences can be easily noticed by just dropping a bit of each paint in a paper.

>> No.42664567

It's really nice to see a guard army fully painted. Nice work Anon.

>> No.42664661

*paper, not pallet

>> No.42664865

weather is shitty here, rain and stuff.
so no priming.

gonna finish the fifth stormboy today.

>> No.42664945
File: 229 KB, 413x413, 1442471052665.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Do you ever look at the models you've yet to paint and see the regular troops and the like normally.. but then you glance at the "centerpiece" models in the army and get real worried your skills aren't up to scratch and you'll make it look terrible?

And it's bad because it ties the whole thing together, man.

>> No.42665024
File: 2.36 MB, 4128x2322, 20150919_213547.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Got my hands on some Classic Ork models for Da WAAAAAGH Boyz. Trukks, old school Burna Boyz that look like they're holding flamethrower guitars, as well as some other stuff to put my army closer to completion.

WIP Trukk. It still needs its wrekkin' ball.

>Also I know this is a rules question and not a WIP question, but does the Wrekkin' ball count as a ranged attack where it gets D3 shots or is it a weapon that scores auto D3 hits?

>> No.42665113

You brave soul

>> No.42665117

Also it doesn't help that I have this autism for fully assembling a model before I even prime.

I really should take apart my two Tomb Kings sphinxes and my DP's wings before i prime but.. I'm so afraid I'll damage them further.

>> No.42665152


>wrekkin ball
ranged attack at 3" with d3 assault attacks.
No autohits, why did you think so?

>> No.42665180

Basically use the gw online store, check the cavalry thingy and have a look through there.
There are a bunch of kits that come with flags. You could even use a standard from a skeleton warrior box since those are really tiny. When you found a bit you like you can buy it via bits sellers or ebay.

The alternative would be plastic card, bent over a flame into a flag shape, GS or another putty rolled out flat, cut to shape and then dried in a billowing shape or using aluminium foil or sheet metal of some kind.
Some people like to use old paint or toothpaste tubes cut open and spread out.
You can of course also use paper soaked in pva, but it won't be as sturdy as the other things.

>> No.42665217

love the stubble on head and chin/face. Possibly a bit red on the rest of the face, unless he's supposed to be super pissed off. Highlights.

>> No.42665268

That's not wonky. That's a highly aweomse seppuku sengoku nippon jedai samurai axe! The bow makes it more able to slice through armourplas 10 inches thick!

>> No.42665286
File: 2.47 MB, 4128x2322, 20150919_213519.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Just because I figured a wrekkin' ball may be a bit of a crap upgrade if I roll to hit, and I also figured a wrekkin' ball doesn't need much accuracy. Though ranged attack means I can swat flying units out of the sky.

>> No.42665346

Theoretically yes. Just use your full orky kustomizin' potenchul and fix the ball in the middle of the trukk, on a pole, so you have a 3" bubble to hit shit diagonally above ya.

>> No.42665380

Not him but wouldn't that be a dick move though? modelling for the purpose of gaining an advantage.

>> No.42665428
File: 1.08 MB, 1437x1584, Spyrer.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Very WIP of my Spyrer Matriarch

>> No.42665441

>do you ever look at the models you've yet to paint and see the regular troops and the like normally.. but then you glance at the "centerpiece" models in the army and get real worried your skills aren't up to scratch and you'll make it look terrible?

yes I do. I have plenty of cheap orks from ebay. I do them in small groups to not burn out myself and slowly improve. Hovever, my 1st purchase was Stormclaw set, and I'm still lookin at Grukk and saying to myself:
>maybe not this thime
>maybe after another batch of boyz I'll be better
>maybe when I get some experience with GS and plasticard I'll make cool base for him
>maybe I should buy airbrush 1st to gib him better and smoother coats
Same with any bigger model I wanted to buy (like battlewagon or gorkanaut).

>> No.42665599

Why so?
3" is a very limited range. The standard hard point for the trukk model is on the right side, so you are limited to attacks on your right.
By shifting the hard point, you are basically only shifting your point of attack.
I wasn't talking about a fuck huge crane arm, just another installation point.

Since there are no rules for custom vehicles, you can do whatever you want, in my opinion.
Heck, some units don't even have a model, but rules, so you are forced to scratch it.

>> No.42665622

Is dat sum Necromunda?

>> No.42665634

Fair enough if you put it that way. Just thought it might be shifty to allow yourself the attack on flyers for example when realistically the flyer would be several hundred feet off the ground.


>> No.42665664 [DELETED] 

Also gonna use it as a count as DeathCult Assassin for my Inquisition army.

>> No.42665718


Also gonna use her as an acolyte in my Inquisition Army. I'm thinking count-as Deathcult Assassin.

>> No.42665740

The rules aren't fit for either flyers, nor weapons.
There are huge gaping rule holes regarding both, your point of relative height of flyers being one, another being the shady vehicle weapon firing zones, turret field of views and so on.

If you want to really cheese the argument about the wrekkin ball (in a really, really that guy way), one could claim, that the small crane on the original trukk model has a field of motion, when assembled without glue. This will not only narrow down your "3" radius" to "3" 180° range on the right side", but also to the field of motion of the crane hardpoint. In other words, maybe 15° to one o' clock of your trukk. Which sucks.

>> No.42665771

Hey whats the name of that green stuff thats not the GW green stuff, its cheaper and i cant remember what its called

>> No.42665789

Or the galeforce9 greenstuff?

>> No.42665887

Thats it thanks

>> No.42666005

Very good point. Though I'm glad I don't really use vehicles much aside from a Land Raider and 2 Rhinos. Their boxy natures makes LoS real easy.

>> No.42666006
File: 2.19 MB, 4128x2322, 20150922_130118.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]




>Pewter Burna Boy I just painted up the other day

>> No.42666065

Sweet stuff man. It would be awesome to play against a Kult of Speed army army all with chrome teef and lips like they sprayed it on.

>> No.42666103

>Land Raider and Rhinos
Also easy to define armor segments for em.

Not so easy to say where side armor ends and front/rear begins on a falcon...

>> No.42666150

Yeah I can imagine. Though I DO have a scratchbuilt Night Scythe out of cut-up CDs.. It's gonna be fun deciding what fucking facing it is. Might mark lines on the rim of the base and measure LoS

>> No.42666284

They all do have chrome teef and lips like it's sprayed on. I'll show you on my next model I show off that has teefs. Be on the lookout.

>> No.42666693
File: 17 KB, 358x480, 425756_md-.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

so im thinking of repainting my first ever miniatures. Has anyone ever done this or is it a rite of passage to keep your first miniature you painted , well..... painted?

Also post pictures of your first miniatures too if you got any

>> No.42666728
File: 34 KB, 800x450, 478844_md-.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My tech priest, im not too happy with it so im thinking of repainting it?

thoughts WiP?

>> No.42666755

In that case, that's awesome. I will be lurkin'

>> No.42666774

If your latest miniature is better quality, then go ahead. If it's your 1st, then keep practising and go back to him after you get some skill and experience.

>> No.42666776

I wouldn't repaint them unless you wanted to use them for some sort of game without buying the model again. I'm trying to strip paint off some plastic warjacks with simple green that I want to paint and its a pain in the ass, much harder than I remember with 40k minis.

>> No.42667068

I used to use the wrapping around bottles of bubbly. It's thicker than aluminium foil, so it keeps the shape well, and you can just prime it, paint it, like a metal mini.

Otherwise, what's wrong with using green stuff? Or possibly white milliput (it's really strong once dry)
Only challenge is getting a _really_ thin layer of either. I mean, you just put them between two sheets of paper or something it won't stick to, and then you roll it. But I'm not sure how thing you can go, honestly.

>> No.42667193

Milliput isn't green, though. It's got white, brown, grey, black and some other, but not green.

I think you might be thinking of Kneadatite, which is another name for Green Stuff.

>> No.42667220

Dude, no way I would ever touch my first miniature. It's important to remember where you came from. Always nice to look back and see the progress, you know?

>> No.42667317

I would do this but I want to repaint my whole Tau army in a different livery. That said I COULD keep my Thousand Sons as they are.

>> No.42667392


I recommend you stop posting that picture, it's extremely discouraging.

>> No.42667457

The importance of it is mostly to paint cleanly within the "lines" of a model. The result looks FAR better than if you painted over it completely and added shadows to the recess. Not painting over the recess itself makes it stand out more.

That said, I'm not that good personally. I rely on the ULTIMATE CHEAT CODE: a 1mm black liner pen. Makes things look cel-shaded sortof, and stand out beautifully. I'm doing my necrons with it right now and I am loving them.

>> No.42667533
File: 481 KB, 1896x620, DSC_0188.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Just got these guys for 12.4 dollars. Don't play IG but might use them for inquisition henchmen.

>> No.42667570

Are Vostroians still produced??

>> No.42667642

Idk, they are still available on the gw site. I got them used on a Swedish auction site.

>> No.42667771
File: 256 KB, 600x2500, 1313178773240.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


You misunderstand me anon. The 2014 model isn't bad, I'm not saying I could do better, and I'm not trying to be an asshole or anything, but it's very underwhelming for having been the result of 24 years of painting practice. Of course painting like in pic related and some of the other jaw dropping paint jobs you see on Golden Daemon winners is very atypical, but new painters can certainly aspire to do better than that after 2 and a half decades of painting.

>> No.42667847

How should I paint cloth? I usually paint lizardmen which have no clothing at all, but I'm doing a Wight king right now and I don't know how not to fuck up the cape. I don't know how to make nice gradients, how to make it look reasonnably fluid, etc.

>> No.42667851

No no I actually agree with you. I didn't want to say anything about the timeskip because yeah don't want to seem like a dick or nothing.

So I misunderstood you. My apologies.

>> No.42668137

with glazes

>> No.42668219


Every single time I see this model, I imagine all the time spent free handing and blending and getting those lines straight and I just wanna fucking kill myself.

>> No.42668243

I've always had luck with a basecoat of Grey > NULN OIL THAT BITCH > Drybrush only the top of the model with P3 Quicksilver.

Yes, I'm a filthy heretic that uses both citadel and formula on the same model

>> No.42668456

and tipz'n'trickz on sculpting hoods and tabards?

>> No.42668519

> Step 1, get a good knife
> Step 2, obtain based Chinaman's contact info, google-fu required
> Step 3, order a metric ton of Space marine torsos from him, for about 50c each. About 100 to 500 should do

Wait 2 weeks..
> Take your crafting life and slice the cloaks off of the torsos, you might need a serated knife to do proper sawing.
> Take a pot of boiling water, and a bowl of ice-water.
> Use the boiling water to heat the resin, then mold it by hand around your models to make hoods and tabards. When you're done, heat treat it by dipping the finished result in ice-water to harden the resin
> Laugh at retards that still use expensive clay

>> No.42668533

Meant to say cloaked marine torsos, specifically the one from the "Space Marine Commander" box set. You'll also need a Respirator so you don't get cancer from sawing open resin models.

>> No.42668965

Dust mask works just fine seriously you don't need a respirator unless you are running a fucking belt sander on this stuff

>> No.42669284

the trick is that to improve, you need to learn. And to learn you need to realise you need it in the first place.
Putting 10000 hours into painting is not gonna do shit to improve your global skills if you only ever do the same thing again and again and again.
You'll just be like one of those street artists who do planets and trees and shit with their spray cans. Sure it looks cool, and they are amazingly fast at it, but they're stuck in that one thing they can do.

You need to think and experiment, to improve. Then you paint. Then you go back to analyzing and thinking, etc.

>> No.42669296


Yeah, an airbrush is ideal but you need room to spray and of course, an airbrush.

>> No.42669328


Consider me jelly. I am not sure why you bothered assembling them all the way but I have some of the different riders (there's like 7 different kinds) to use as psykers in an ork tellyporta and just those already have more details than the entire sigmarine line.

>> No.42669386


Yeah, Kneadite is the non-rebranded name for greenstuff. Milliput is coarse as fuck and kind of brittle. It's alright as filler for a skeleton, but don't bother trying to sculpt fine detail with it. A hundred other putties do that better.

>> No.42669414


>Axe is bent
>red is off, like way too dark in some places and way too bright in others.
> Most other stuff is black or metal

It's like you only have 5 colors and black wash. This is a beautiful model, you can do so much more with it.

>> No.42669487

Milliput has got colours for a reason.
White is extremely smooth and perfect for sculpting blade and weapons. It really holds well and once dry you can work it with a knife, sharpen it, sand it, etc.

>> No.42669526


Lucky sod, they're worth twice that and they sell easily too.

>> No.42669538

>Milliput is coarse as fuck and kind of brittle. It's alright as filler for a skeleton, but don't bother trying to sculpt fine detail with it. A hundred other putties do that better.

People, don't listen to this man for he doesn't know what he's doing.

Milliput essentially is like clay. You can add water to make is smoother. You can add even more water to make it into a paste that you can use to fill gaps.

To do fine detail you should wet the surface you are applying milliput to and then carefully put the milliput on. Suface tension will make it stick and you can move it around until you worked it into whatever you are working on.

Personally I don't like using for fine detail because I'm used to other materials too, but you can totally do that.
It also has the advantage that it dries rockhard. You can sand and cut it until it has sharp edges. Even more so than brown stuff for example.

vid kinda related

>> No.42669602

To add to this gentleman of good taste, it's weighty due to it's curing process. It DOES harden like stone and gives the model that nice strong feel.

>> No.42669615


Eh, maybe my bar was old and half cured already. I'll try some again, hopefully a "fresh" batch. The store I bought it at also sold me vallejo paint which was 10 years old.

>> No.42669819

funny you say that about the paints, i only did have 5 colors and a black wash?

>> No.42669871

it looks like a fallout powerfist.

>> No.42669897


Check out ebay lots and your local trading pages, I just snagged 90 brand new current GW range paint pots for 30 euro. You can't even buy 10 pots from GW for that money. Anyway, remember to first do the deepest and hardest to reach areas and work your way up. Black shade doesn't really work on most things, you're better off with the brown shade or a colored shade for most stuff.

>> No.42670261

Any decent brush recommendations?

Using citadel brushes atm but they seem shit.

Also, where to find general miniature brush use and cleaning tips?

Thank you WIP.

>> No.42670413


army painter is decent, model train stores have cheap brushes great for speed painting buit short lived. Top of the line are stuff like windsor & newton, they make both pure sable and hybrids for acrylics

>> No.42670507

so you shouldnt use pure sable for acrylics which what all the paint is.

>> No.42670524

Try Army Painter brushes.
They work fine for the price.
I paint about 99% with their regiment brush, which also works for washes on medium sized areas or quick full washes of whole minis.

If you want, just get cheap synthetic brushes from your local DIY/hobby store for drybrushing, because this will kill any brush in the long term.

Don't ever buy brushes in sealed packages (bundles of your brand of choice are ok), because you want to check out each individual brush and its hairs, but especially the ferule, which is the metal thing holding the hairs.

Do not buy broken brushes (duh).

Maintenance and cleaning 101:

- Keep the ferule dry, or at least prevent paint from soaking up all the way to it.
This will kill the brush.
- Store em tip up (when dry), tip down when wet.
Use the brush guards you get with most brushes.
Anything else will kill the brush.
- Leaving paint in the brush will stick hairs together and clump up inside the ferule.
This will kill the brush.
- Rinse the brush with water once in a while while painting the same color for longer periods.
While you are painting the paint will slowly creep up the brush into the ferule.
This will kill it.
-After painting use cold to luke warm water to clean brushes. Hot water will damage the glue inside the ferule.
Guessed it? This will kill it.
-You can use a little bit of saliva and your tongue to get a nice brush point after painting (and after cleaning, of course).
Your spit will harden the brush a bit when dried, and keep the point until next session.
Just clean the spit out of it with water before using paint again.
-Letting washes dry in your brush will kill it.

>> No.42670625


Well, supposedly the brushes are meant for inks and oil paints so something as coarse as acrylic paint will be hard on them wear and tear wise but they're still amazing brushes


AP is decent mid range but be careful to check the tip because some stores still sell old stock with dried out coarse bristles that won't hold a tip well

>> No.42670631

Thanks. This helps.

To clean, how? Shake the brush around in a cup of water, not touching the bottom or sides?

When painting, paint with the very tip? or the body?

Also... General Q... WN size 00 or 000 required for fine detail/highlighting?

>> No.42670808

If you want to be tidy and do a clean job, get two water containers, use one for cleaning after metallics, and one for after nonmetallics.

Touching the walls of the cup can help you get the last bit of paint out of the brush.

>When painting, paint with the very tip? or the body?
Depends. When you have diluting down, you can have the paint in a state where you can use the very tip of the brush like a pen, and paint for as long there is paint left in the mid and upper parts of the brush, without using much pressure at all.

With some colors and brands you can have it less diluted, use a bit of pressure to fan the hairs out more, to cover more area with each stroke, but without leaving streaks.

Less diluted paint and using the side (maybe the very mid of the brush) is a common way to do highlights on edges.

>brush size and details
OK, this is a hard one...
I would recommend that you train doing "details" (let's say the typical space marine helmet eye) with a regular sized brush.
Using a finer brush is kinda another level of painting, because you can throw all the stuff you learned with regular sized brushes out of the window.
Shorter/less hairs mean less paint in your brush to paint with, and also the capillary effect seems to be much faster.
Which also means the paint dries a lot faster in the brush.
This means you really need experience diluting paint or maybe using a retarder or additional thinner.

Using a fine detail brush without knowing how can be like spackling paint onto the miniature, which looks like shit.
I had painting sessions on hot days where the paint dried inside detail brushes from the palette to the mini...

>> No.42670898

The problems you state with small brushes is what I've also been experiencing.

I don't feel I have adequate control with larger brushes, and smaller brushes leads to paint drying in the brush very quickly. Which leads me to rushing highlights, which leads me to screw it up.

I'm thinking perhaps a size 0 may be more suitable so that more paint will be held, and hopefully the tip small enough for neat highlighting lines

>> No.42671049

It seems the Army Painter regiment brush is size 1.
Size 0 seems awfully small to contain enough paint for larger areas, but that's my personal view.
If you can handle it and the minis look fine, go for it.

I'd also say from my experience that the brush size doesn't matter (queue phallic joke here) for details, as long as the tip has a good point and you have a steady hand.

However, bigger brushes tend to do more collateral damage when you paint in tight spots.

>> No.42671086
File: 74 KB, 812x879, Goblin Horde.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So I recently fell into a batch of O&G. And I want to make this list.
Problem is, so far I have 5 boxes of Night Goblins, 2 boxes of Orc Warriors, a Black Orc Boss (shield and axe fineshit version) and the Orc Warboss with Big Boss, and evidently 4 Fanatics.

I would love to run the list, but I don't know if I can, and would like to add in some Black Orcs.

My question is sort of 2 fold, 1. Can I run this list legally? 2. How can I paint this horde to look awesome, but not like a standard green skin horde?

> Also play the 'realistically' painted Lizardman army and the shit tastic Beastman army.

>> No.42671170

1. I don't know, I don't play WHFB
2. Get a nice army scheme, and prepare to paint goblin green a lot I guess...

>> No.42671200
File: 73 KB, 640x960, 12032424_10153770163188900_1397161032_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My start to my Ad mech forces

>> No.42671225
File: 193 KB, 1024x615, 1432658825449.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I've been seriously considering painting like this, but I don't know if I can with hoods. . . And in black/grey instead of blue.

>> No.42671240

Well, I'll be using this brush only for highlighting, maybe a few details.

Larger areas typically will be done with my shitty citadel layer brush until I get something more suitable.

What if I pick up a WN size 0 and 1?

>> No.42671241
File: 58 KB, 423x564, BSB front.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

pic of my recently assembled ogre BSB.

>> No.42671263
File: 70 KB, 423x564, BSB side.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

and a sideshot.

>> No.42671283
File: 81 KB, 508x676, Slaughtermaster front.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Slaughtermaster with lore of Heavens

>> No.42671284

Link to shop pls, this is important for my own AdMech
(The mask should be a full face mask though, her eye looks kinda wonky).

If you want to mass produce goblins, I would look into a quick and dirty thing like "paint all the goblin green => paint all the robes in one color => DIPWASH"

I googled a bit, and brush sizes don't seem to mean a thing, since they aren't standardized.

Just buy each size, try it out at home, use the ones you are comfy with.
Use the others for wash/brush duty.

>> No.42671291

I like how ridiculously big it is and how much LM stuff was put into it. Great job.

>> No.42671327

Thanks! I really emptied the bitzbox when doing him. actually the tilted stance of the banner was necessary to make him fit in the toolcase I use for transportation. He's just to tall!

>> No.42671367

Is there anywhere I can just buy a cheap back door to a Vindicator? getting one soon that's missing it

>> No.42671372
File: 74 KB, 564x423, Mournfang champ.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Here is pic of my mournfang champion. Im going to add chains as reins later. The rest of the crew will be riding stegadons.

>> No.42671549

google exclusive miniatures, shes listed there with another female techie of a far future

>> No.42671669
File: 3.24 MB, 5312x2988, 20150726_122653.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Don't stick to just metalics or metal. I used grey, washed it then drubrushed for this guy's armor.

Also any advice for the sword? It's shit.

>> No.42671770
File: 321 KB, 1079x573, brushes.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

the wn's are 0,00,000

>> No.42671812
File: 891 KB, 2592x1552, IMAG0884.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Finally getting some work done on the knight.
First time using decals, and i have learned to hate them already.
Coulld have ended alot worse i suppose.

On to paint the top torso plate ! ...tomorrow

>> No.42671832

from the thumbnail they looked like some radical shades.

>> No.42671846

or a very Imperial bra

>> No.42671851

Sorry to disappoint mate

>> No.42671866


>> No.42672012

Any tips on how to make cables out of greenstuff?

>> No.42672060

Roll them into sausages.
If you want the 40k powercable look roll them over something like a comb after that, which will give you characteristic ribbed texture.

You can also buy tools for that. Masq Mini sells one and another one goes by the name of tentacle maker.

>> No.42672186
File: 128 KB, 977x353, tau color scheme.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How neat would it look to paint Tau based off this color scheme? Spray them dark purple, do armor and pads blue with pink secondary, and maybe do other details in yellow/white?

>> No.42672284
File: 519 KB, 999x799, cowabunga.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Go for it. I expect tau without helmets to wear red ribbons around their head or smoke cigars though.

>> No.42672402
File: 846 KB, 2858x1180, lib.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I've based him and painted the right eye since these pics were taken, but you get the idea.

>> No.42672412
File: 23 KB, 500x375, 1440095791269.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>470 wounds

>> No.42672450
File: 493 KB, 1837x1031, DSC02800.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Also posted these here a while ago

>> No.42672520
File: 398 KB, 720x1280, IMG_20150922_200325.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I decorated the base, thoughs?

>> No.42672535

Do it nigger

>> No.42672542
File: 395 KB, 720x1280, IMG_20150922_200331.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Made a shitty spear as well

>> No.42672945

I only have one squad of Fire Warriors with one without helmet but I'll make it happen for him.
Aight. It might be a while before I get started as I'm at college with no access to paints for two weeks

>> No.42673011

I'm in these threads quite regularly, so i'll be watching for ya nigger.

Also, google for the guy who painted his tau in a TRON-esque scheme, should be quite good for inspiration

>> No.42673859


Not really my wip desk though, but Ill get to that later. Also need a collective shot but eh.

>> No.42674706

Amazing! Thank you

>> No.42674820

I'm a super amateur painter who is learning to thin his paints, and I fucked up a priming really badly.

I used old Citadel White Primer that I had a can of from way back when, but it came out really bumpy, like sandpaper.

What did I do wrong? How can I fix it, without the models coming apart in some kind of industrial cleaning mixture?

All help appreciated

>> No.42674839

Happens to all of us bro, I've been painting for years and my poor skitarii weep.

Just get some Simple Green. It's safe on plastic minis and it should come off with some time and a good scrub

>> No.42674938

Are you using decal solvents?


>> No.42675016

You either used the primer too close to the model, or you used the primer outside while it was wet outside, either one will fuck up the priming and leave the sandpaper texture.

>> No.42675047

Thanks for the encouragement! I'm not looking forward to reassembling them all after the glue goes to pieces..

Too close? Someone was telling me it was too far. What's the right distance?

>> No.42675077


use isopropyl to remove the coat

also about 20cm should be ok to spray

>> No.42675207

>Priming white
>fucking -50 humidity
>Need to strip all my fucking pathfinders from last time
>fire warriors are either stripped or new
>It still goes on like shit
>feel like I have to hold it up to the fucking nozzle to get anything
>meanwhile black prime shoots out like pent up ejaculate

>> No.42675295


>> No.42675325
File: 62 KB, 395x344, PrimeAxiom.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So, I want to take my Prime Axiom and make it look more like a tank than a semi-futuristic robot.

I know I wanted to modify the Accelspiker into a chaingun, and while I'm not totally sure what to do with the Tow Cables, I figured more traditional looking guns would be fine.

I'm kind of struggling on what to do with the base(instead of the floating idea), and what to replace the arms with(though I was considering the same basic idea as the siege weapons on Dreads).

I thought about treads, but I figured it'd end up looking like that silly ass CSM thing that I can't remember the name of.

>> No.42675442


Shake your cans? Like, shake it vigorously for at least 10 minutes if it's been in storage. Do figure-of-eight motions.

>> No.42675460

>I thought about treads, but I figured it'd end up looking like that silly ass CSM thing that I can't remember the name of.
That model looks completely ridiculous already. Whats it for, Warmachine?

>> No.42675496


Jesus fuck, I normally think warmahorde stuff looks fine but that thing is an abheration of poor taste

Imma gonna guess it's the shit-elves faction?

>> No.42675545

From their new robo-faction actually.

>> No.42675563

Warmachine. Convergence, they're the transhumanist style faction.

>> No.42675617


>Google'd convergence of cyriss

WOW, that shit is just as bad as the new Khorne garbage. Did they start adding Lead to all the miniature designer's sodas lately?

>> No.42675667

I actually like the medium sized infantry, and their warcasters are pretty neat.

Really though, I think they struggle to make good looking models for Warmachine. Look at the Gargs for Hordes, everything but the Wold Wrath are great models.

>> No.42675753
File: 1.79 MB, 3264x1836, 6c269648-4c25-4aee-8cfc-2ece05d35dbb..jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Dry brushing herald and prince right now

They are really coming along

>> No.42675830


Well, the World Wrath is stylistically consistent with the rest of the army and the game, I feel the derpiness is in line with the campyness.

But I agree the gargs are pretty neat.

>> No.42675890

Like, I think they feel obligated to stick to the humanoid robot aspect of Warmachine even though they could do whatever the fuck they wanted with it, while with Hordes they can go crazy and do so. The fucking Hydra looks amazing, I think.

>> No.42676079

Thought this would be the best place to ask.

I've been thinking of building a 30k army, but instead of using bolters, I was considering using the skitarii galvanic rifles.
Is such a conversion possible, or are the arms molded onto the gun?

>> No.42676126

The arms are molded onto most of guns, There's one galvanic and one radium per box that are not molded to anything.
if you give me a bit I can take pics.

>> No.42676158

Citadel sprays are ass.

>> No.42676541
File: 205 KB, 382x768, spyrer3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

more work done on the Spyrer Matriarch

>> No.42676996

Pretty much done with the Herald

As he is China cast he didn't come with a correct base, so I will need to drill into one and glue a transparent stand into it so it is finished

>> No.42677025
File: 2.19 MB, 3264x1836, b857df14-7246-4a87-bddc-087804d5b3bb..jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Forgot pic

>> No.42677178
File: 185 KB, 1055x947, 2015-08-03 15.28.36.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

A legend among freebootas, Da Big Boss.

>> No.42677453

Love the worn down and ruddy paint/plaster effect you have going on for the walls.

Is this mechanicum factory just for regular 40K or a specialist game?

>> No.42677545


Solid Squig?

>> No.42677754

From my experience, old sprays can get gritty just through age. Get some cheap camo primer for 6-7 dollars at the store and try that out.

>> No.42678196

That chainsythe. The chainsword is way too straight, look at the chainswords in the CSM box, some are Saber like, two sided, much more suitable for a polearm.

>> No.42679096

Necromunda. There's some posters and graffiti going on there, as well as the water effects in the pools at the end of the conveyors. Now just to get the others to agree that the yellow moves one inch per turn Anna the blue moves them two...

>> No.42679154

Just in time with the new Tau release coming.

There's a part of me that, for the longest time, has wanted to do a fan comic that is just MGS with names and people replaced with 40k stuff.
Solid Snake is a Kommando.
The Genome Soldiers call themselves the Sons of the Emperor
Mantis is a Tau
The Hind D is a Valkyrie. Or a Storm Raven. Still not sure.

>> No.42679369
File: 2.15 MB, 2560x1920, 20150826_163729.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>somebody repost your old boyz and says he want to paint his models like this
I've never been so flattered.

If you need any tips, I'm here to help ya anon :3

>> No.42679468

Your camera is a suspect recast at tis point

Jesus Christ, that 90s marine

>> No.42679540
File: 1.36 MB, 3264x1836, 20150922_235745.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Got into pre-weathering my first chem-dogs chimera, trying out that fancy liquid greenstuff technique.
pretty happy so far

>> No.42679558
File: 609 KB, 2127x1482, CAM00525-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

<<some skeltals I mashed together today

:0 those look incredible

That's a big gun

>> No.42679586
File: 1.21 MB, 3264x1836, 20150922_235803.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]



>> No.42679629
File: 1.16 MB, 3264x1836, 20150923_000642.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.42680472

is there a nice guide on how to paint 40k ruins?

>> No.42680554

check their youtube channel, there is at least one video where that gw guru paints an imperial ruin

>> No.42680625

>too tired to prime yesterday
>100% humidity today

Well, fuck.

>> No.42681113

Man, it must suck being a wargaming hobbyist and living underwater.

>> No.42681126

That pose looks very awkward.

>> No.42681154

Shit, i couldnt paint most of the summer in NC, 100% humidity for months.

>> No.42681197
File: 261 KB, 1920x1080, Picture 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

SO! Just got into painting my guard army. About 15 or so models down, 90+ to go.

I made the rather dumb mistake of 'priming' them with a beige spray paint instead of actual primer, thinking that this would make the tan cloth easier to deal with. Pic related is one of my best results so far.

The biggest trouble I've found besides that is that I can't get flesh tones right. I'm using Vallejo Game Color paints with washes mixed primarily with nuln oil (this model has four: standard nuln oil for the metal bits, mixed with khaki for the cloth, mixed with cayman green for the armor, and water mixed with either bronze or elf fleshtone for the flesh...I've been experimenting and none of them look that great so i didn't bother to keep track).

Anyhoo, looking for advice. Also wondering if I should strip the models...in a few cases the spray didn't go on right, and in a few others it went on so thick that the models don't have eyes anymore.

>> No.42681241

Flesh tone looks great for a mass army.
I think you are too hard on yourself.

Also using that many washes? I would stick to brown wash on everything when doing 105 models.

>> No.42681301
File: 324 KB, 1920x1080, Picture 2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>I think you are too hard on yourself.

Perhaps if I showed you some of the bad ones.

>> No.42681353

So why not just use a darker brown wash? I don't get why this is a confusing mystery for you

>> No.42681380

>Big Boss
>Barely Nob sized, like as if done from the weedy boys-kit nob

>> No.42681400

Not a bad job, but it's a shame you didn't convert your own as making your own customized leaders is one of the more fun parts of the hobby. With Heralds, especially Tzeenchian ones, you have so much room for creativity.

>> No.42681415

Alright, I'll give that a shot.

Another question: none of the models I've done so far have any direct highlighting. I've looked at tutorials for it, and it just seems too...brushy. Can infantry models like guard get away with no highlighting?

>> No.42681420

Fill the mouth with black wash now, problem solved.

>> No.42681426

Is he eating his binocular?

>> No.42681434


No, just narrow depth of field. Blame the camera.

>> No.42681465

no, he got blessed with oral diarrhea by papa nurgle

>> No.42681496
File: 77 KB, 600x600, 578531.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>hobby is about painting shit
>too brushy


>> No.42681507
File: 306 KB, 972x1336, 0923151158-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Yaaay finally got the motivation to paint up some drones today.

>> No.42681617


I don't fucking know, man, I just don't like the way brushed-on highlights look.

>> No.42681657

You could try getting an airbrush?

>> No.42681659
File: 856 KB, 1600x600, stillnocluewhatiwanttodowithhissleevesorbellsandshitorgun.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Todays progress. Still really not used to this scale, but thinking that something of a respectable tabletop quality is slowly being achieved.

>> No.42681776

Hell, if you think that's 'respectable tabletop quality' you should see what some people bring to my FLGS.

>> No.42681792

The symbol on the drones is a nice touch.

>> No.42681848
File: 769 KB, 2048x1536, DSCF2782.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Not sure if a compliment or an insult? I normally work in 15mm for wargaming miniatures (like pic related) and in larger scales for "proper" scale models. 28mm is newish ground to me, so I'm not sure if what I am doing is barely competent, decent or awful. Kinda flying blind here.

And since you had a look at the image, any ideas for the weapon/ammo feed? It is in a shitty state because I frankly just mapped out the gem things and did some very basic edge highlights so that I could get a sense of shape for painting the rest of the model, still quite open to how it should be painted.

>> No.42681919
File: 1.57 MB, 3920x2204, DSC_0469.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Dude, that's really solid work, cheer up. I'd give the flesh a wash with fleshtone or whatever you feel appropriate. Perhaps some drybrushing on their pants and a few highlights on his armour should really make your guys stand out. Don't bother the few thickly coated guys, they really don't show if they're surrounded by 50+ thinly painted ones.

Oh, i like those runes.

Yesterdays progress on my terminators. Working full time is a bitch.

>> No.42681970

Oh no it's good, really nice, I've seen people walk in with sprayed on basecoats and models that look like they were just dipped in a pot of paint. Obviously tidy up the gems a bit but on the ammo holster you could try putting some metallics to break up the black?

>> No.42682042

Ah, thanks for the compliment though, I'll try to stay on target of further improving though.

The gems will be fully repainted I think (they are only one thin coat of light brown (which is best orange ever made (yay nested brackets))), I have a rule in recent years that not a drop of metallic paint goes on any of my models below 1/48 scale, and unfortunately for me I stick to my rules (restriction breeding creativity and all that). I am probably looking for the weapon and ammo feed to follow a unified base colour - trim - gems concept, with most likely orange gems (to match the soulstone and anti grav belt). I was thinking that gloss black base colour with purple furniture could work, if that was the case then maybe making the ammo feed classed as trim for more purple would work? Additionally, I'm not sure if I want his sleeves to remain black or take on a colour, and what glyph I should put on his kneepad.

As a non 40k player I'm also not sure if his hands should be paler (being Eldar and all), and what I should do about the bells/sharks teeth/tiny swords on his ruff.

>> No.42682313 [DELETED] 

>Doorbell rings
>Two huge packages left at door
>Turns out that they were just salesmen supplies for someone else in the household.

>> No.42682935

>Hotline Tau-va
i like it
do it and post pictures pretty please

>> No.42682960
File: 775 KB, 2789x1569, PART_1433890859160_20150609_185849.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I (now) have 3 of your pics. I love the muscle details on the arms and faces. I won't be doing exactly what you're doing, it'll probably be black or grey instead of blue, but those are some pretty fantastic Boyz, man.

> Sorry for the Fuckhueg pic, but that's my 'realistic' LM paint scheme. lots of washes. lots and lots of washes.

>> No.42683020

holy shit i totally want to do a Cadian PM squad now

>> No.42683525

As someone who has just started tzeentch daemons with strong lovecraftian intent, this excites me greatly. Keep us updated anon.

>> No.42683537

could I get a close up?
I personally think the blood is a bit to much

>> No.42683550
File: 608 KB, 1000x750, IMG_2493.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Alright, this is as far as I have come. 1 squad down, and the HQ. Got my Robots up next and will finish with the Breachers.

>> No.42683575


Was that the best location you could think of for taking a picture? lol

nah but lizard skin is good for reals

>> No.42683616
File: 953 KB, 753x1857, vip2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


At the same time assembling some Skitarii for my combined force.
This one is just about ready after magnetization, which by the way was a fucking bitch to complete! But now It stands as a Dragoon, that can fully convert to a Ballistarii, including the frontal shield that many people have trouble fixing, so yea... pretty damn pleased (and tired!).

>> No.42683684

There's a thing called 'the weathering magazine'. You can get it for two or three bucks as pdf online or google around and pirate it. One of the issues is about snow and ice.
Might be cool to have a look at for AdMech stuff.
Had to think of it while looking at the tracks on those gundrones.

Cool theme for an AdMech army though. And i like the colors.

>> No.42683820
File: 786 KB, 2886x1623, PART_1433890855993_20150609_185801.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Absolutely !
The blood was a last minute, off the top of my head thing. Hot glue for the body of it, painted red with Blood For the Blood God.
> Might be the wrong pic, can't make out my own thumbnails. May post another in a second, monitoring multiple threads on/tg/ and /k/ right now.

>> No.42683837
File: 784 KB, 1000x1333, IMG_2385.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Heres a close up. I think it looks pretty damn gritty. I do the tracks with an old school drybrush of metal, but when weathering, I go over them with a sandy-phaste, remove excess with my thumb and when dry I apply weathering powders of different browns, watered down a bit. The end result is what you see here. I really wanted it to match the weathered look of the rest of the model, and that the Mechanicus don't really care much for these things, just use them till they break.

This picture gives a good look on the tracks, and while the GW snow flock looks a bit unreal this close, it looks great from an arms length and on a the snowstorm terrain mat I have.

>> No.42683847
File: 3.04 MB, 3270x2559, carnosaur blown up.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Had the best light at the time. and using a phone for the camera . . . I'mnotacleverman.jpeg.

> inspiration pic.

>> No.42683902
File: 240 KB, 1423x701, example.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Just fold a piece of A4 paper in half and use paint pots to hold it down,

Like so, this was my example but my lamp for the right side blew when i turned it on to take the picture, which was brilliant.

>> No.42684064

What heads do you have on your big Robutts?

They look different from this angle, and better, than the GW ones

>> No.42684210
File: 1.10 MB, 2304x1728, acrylic nail powder and liquid.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

You good sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. You have my gratitude.

> Someone mentioned Ice?

>> No.42684231

That's fucking cool, man!

Neat trick

>> No.42684400

Maybe paint up a bit of flakboard to cover up that bullet hole. Would seem a bit more guardsman like to me then.

Otherwise nice work

>> No.42684419
File: 120 KB, 800x741, gallery_24018_2875_106950.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Got it from here, actually. Guy used his GFs Acrylic Nail Powder (blue, obviously), and added water, then just let it dry. If I wasn't going 'burned out industrial' look with my dudesmen, I would use this on every base for my 40K models.

> Have more 4chan how to's.

>> No.42684594
File: 4.18 MB, 2988x5312, 20150923_203414.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm currently building a hammer for a Knight to stand in for a Thunderstrike Gauntlet. I've got the base for it set up like the image, although I'm not sure how to produce the head. I've got some spare parts off the kit (namely the Battlecannon ammo hopper, shield and a barrel from the Errant cannon) along with various assorted bits. Just looking for ideas to sound off really.

>> No.42684831

Most people will go with a colour much lighter than the base so you often end up with something that imo looks a bit chalky.
Also if the paint is not very wet you'll end up with a similar problem.

You could do the highlighting with a shade only slightly lighter like for example the suite there >>42661210
(most people would have gone with something silly like pink or orange, here)

Also even if you are drybrushing, you can keep the paint wet, just don't make it a wash or you'll fuck up all your shadows, is all.

>> No.42686055
File: 73 KB, 720x960, 12025554_10153771827903900_1350686317_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

start to my new tau paint scheme

>> No.42686236

Looks a little bit nondescriptive now, but go on, I can see a good yellow work with blue tau!

>> No.42686351


The tau weapons aren't power weapons though right?

>> No.42686502
File: 78 KB, 612x816, 8d77b3edaf194d6aa549dd27087bcfd0_66977.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

what im going for

>> No.42686560

Not who you're replying to, but I like that scheme. Really crisp sept markings, and I like the highlights. Is that frosting on purpose...?

>> No.42686636


>>42686236 here!
On the other hand: Yellow and red isn't that good of a contrast for an organized army like tau. My subjective opinion btw.
The colors "steal importance" from each other, and are somewhat dizzying to the observer, because both are warning colors.
It works great for orks imho, but looks somewhat too aggressive for tau.
If you know what I mean.

>> No.42686721
File: 1.16 MB, 2592x1552, 2015-09-23 23.18.49.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Redoing my dwarves from a long time ago. These are all from the old dwarfs vs night goblins starter kit. The most right dwarf was painted 8 years ago, the rest last week.

>> No.42686809

the yellow clothed dwarf looks best of them, u assume it's the most recent?

>> No.42686836


Not bad, if a little dusty. I'd pick a better color for the base though, barely any contrast there.

>> No.42686938


Well, he's the only finished guy of the newly painted bunch

>> No.42687376

Don't like that chalky look, myself.

That's the problem I was on about in >>42684831

>> No.42687422

that's what happens when you drybrush it on.

It works better if you make a glaze for smooth surfaces and do 2 stage edge highlighting everywhere else.

>> No.42687427
File: 39 KB, 600x451, 259461_sm-Crisis Battlesuit, Fire Warriors, Tau.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

It's a value problem. If you keep them of different values your eyes shouldn't bleed. It's definitely a no-no on a webpage, but on a painted mini, with the right shades, it could work.
I'd go for a dark red, something burgundy. Like in pic related.

>> No.42687465

Absolutely, that's what I was trying to explain in the message I referenced.
Drybrushing has its place, but it will pick up any texture, so you better know what you're doing.

>> No.42687483
File: 277 KB, 3306x2728, Ronald-McDonald.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Not what I'd think of when thinking of good schemes tbh.

>> No.42687519

looks like the new lego play kit

>> No.42687520


You better love it bitch

>> No.42687556

Let me see...
Also black.
And grey.
And wait, if they don't wear helmets... also blue.
And an off white/blueish white for lenses.

Damn, green is missing!! This scheme sucks.

>> No.42687585

that's not burgundy, that's a normal, striking red.
Looks dull, because the pic quality sucks.

>> No.42687629

see what you did there

>> No.42687740
File: 38 KB, 400x581, image%3A7365.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Murderclowns freak me out, mcdonalds tau serving the greater good is just too spooky for me

>> No.42687794
File: 32 KB, 464x450, space buzz.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

For a while I considered doing an IG stormtrooper army fluffed around Space Command.
How weird am I?

>> No.42687840


Hehehe do iiiiit, especially the white green candy cane will be glorious

>> No.42687943
File: 55 KB, 600x450, bombshell helmets GDF.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I even found some helmets for them.
Was considering casting some home made jump packs with the wings and using them as drop troops. I made custom parts for IG regiments before, but never could make up my mind.

Maybe I'll get back to the idea some day.

>> No.42687946

Get a better camera?

>> No.42687977

Use skitarii weapons for the mars attacks look

>> No.42687985


Oh man, that's going to be a great project

>> No.42688137
File: 662 KB, 1654x1450, crowe.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Also finished up a couple of Castellan Crowe models today. One for me, one commissioned by a friend. First time working with resin. Fucking hated it.

Thanks anon!

>> No.42688226
File: 755 KB, 3264x2448, IMG_20150923_183159.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How do you guys paint your rank and file/blob doods without going crazy? My guard are taunting me, but I think this is what I get for doing twenty at a time.

Also, What is a glaze and why are infinity painters obsessed with them?

>> No.42688264
File: 308 KB, 992x1034, 1442602620821.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hey guys.

I'm working on city bases for my ad-mech. I could do with some advice. I'm aiming for a generic imperial city; roads, sidewalks, tarmac/asphalt roads and marking, all the normal stuff. The lack of art for this doesn't help though.

Other than kirbside and storm drains and the likes, I'm not sure what to have for the bigger models to made the bases stand out. I'm going to take a War Convocation so I need some cool shit for my knights, crawlers, dragoons, etc.

I thought that some walls on the bases might be good but I'm drained for inspiration. Can anybody chuck a few ideas at me?

The city is a regular, undamaged city. I want it to make it look like the ad-mech have dropped and are walking into the city to investigate.

>> No.42688358

>How do you guys paint your rank and file/blob doods without going crazy?
>My guard are taunting me, but I think this is what I get for doing twenty at a time.
Yes indeed. 10 is my personal maximum. Thought doing 25 orcs a time in yellow was a good idea. Total hobby burnout for the next few years...
>Also, What is a glaze and why are infinity painters obsessed with them?
Transparent paint. Successively painted you can get very smooth transitions with a lot of control.
Dunno what you are on about with the Infinity players, but the miniatures are a lot finer and much more detailed than GW plastics. You need to be a better painter to make them look okay so it's not surprised they'd tend to go for more advanced techniques than drybrushing.
Though tbh glazing is easy as fuck and unless you are painting bases or scenery dry brushing is just a bad habit imo.

>> No.42688364


Power aggregates/generators, shield pilons, defensive turrets, small fences, decorative statues to the omnissiah, destroyed street lights, broken food dispensers in a work area.

Just some stuff off the top of my head. I'd take a walk around the city and think what would still be there in 40k, how do people get around and where do they work etc

>> No.42688388


If they drop inside a hive city, I suggest you take plasticard and cut metal plates for the bases.
You could also take any imperial bits (like those loudspeaker skull things for the bastions) and glue em on.

Make easy tarmac/asphalt by spreading structural paste over the bases.

If you have bigger bases (like striders, crawlers, and the cult inf on tank treads) you could go for broken walls (cut stones from styrofoam, arrange em, glue em), ditches and barbed wire they drive over.

No city should look pristine, especially when admech goes down to investigate. there's only war yatta yatta!

>> No.42688427

You could add mosaic floors or stuff like that to the bigger bases. Think something like church floors with aquilas.
You could also fork out for some FW brass etch and add little eagles to EVERYTHING. Saw a guy who did diamond pattern sheet metal with aquilas with the smallest ones. Looked awesome. You could do that for a 1x1 inch square and cast it over and over to use for basing.

>> No.42688462

Slow and steady. I posted the guard army way way up^^ took ages

>> No.42688558


slow and steady does the job.
I'm still proud because I finally finished my fifth loota today. Bought the kit maybe... two years ago.

>> No.42688575

I have pask and his punisher staring at me every night.. I need to get it over with so I can reward myself with a hellhound

>> No.42688631

>pask and his punisher staring at me every night

sorry, don't have a reaction pic fitting for that...
The unimageinable, imperial horrors.

>> No.42688801


Man up and buy the metal one.

>> No.42689443

What are those clear domes from? I'm looking to do an effect and that's just the piece I need

>> No.42689561
File: 190 KB, 600x600, bombshell miniatures infinity 33007lancerclipperp.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

As the filename says, Bombshell miniatures.
They have a retro future space game these were made for, but you can buy them separately.

They have a bunch of random other miniatures, most notably pin ups as the name suggests, some could be useful for Infinity or stuff like that though.

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