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[ERROR] No.32753910 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

>go on /tg/
>no WIP thread

How strange

>> No.32753952

Destroyer Lord I threw together tonight.

God, I really hate how the camera reveals every single imperfection.

>> No.32753955


Update on the captain, gold dried out too fast because of the heat, even on a wet palette. Still have to do the sword and some touch ups

>> No.32753968


Looks good, I'd do the chest symbol a little brighter to make it stick out better

>> No.32753992

Thanks. Yeah, I'll hit it up with another round of bright gold.

Bonus Despairtek

>> No.32754059


Could do with some brighter green on the crystal

Going to do the rest of the gold and green cleanup this weekend

>> No.32754227

what should I adjust on this converted seraphim model? I'm not really sold on it. this is the base I built it up from.

>> No.32754260

and this is where I have it at now

>> No.32754267

How do you get that metallic blue color?

>> No.32754281


It lacks symbols, it looks like a dark eldar scourge like this

>> No.32754325


The darker parts are Tamiya "X-13 Metallic Blue."

The lighter parts are whatever the GW Blue ink is named + the Blue Glaze over Tamiya's T-17 gloss aluminum spray.

>> No.32754369

Working on my Deathwatch Captain. First half decent GS cloak and a rather nice pose.

He's a Blood Angel but can't decide on manly bald or hairetic.

>> No.32754384


God damn rotated image. Better pic of his cloak.

>> No.32754444

just some card buidlings, having a lil break from the painting it appears.

>> No.32754939


As a side note, I wish there was a space marine head with hair + stoic face like this rather than every head having ugly yelling face.

>> No.32754944

I've been thinking about reproducing this scheme on a knight titan, but with gold as well for non-mechanical parts. What do you think?

>> No.32755011

> Tfw your vampire is a florist

>> No.32755027

How would you guys suggests doing a white robe/cloak color wise? Base coat light gray, then bring it up flat white?

>> No.32755042

Pure white should only be used as the final, sharpest highlights.

>> No.32755059

I personally use a tannish cream color over gray. Raknath Flesh from GW is what I use as the base, and after that I just mix it with Ceramite white for layers, more white, less cream as I layer.

>> No.32755069

So mix the grey/white as a layer highlight I guess

>> No.32755131


>> No.32755182


>> No.32755442

They do, or rather I have one in my bitz box. Think it's from the devvie box

>> No.32755872

So when in painting dryads, where do I go from a mournfang brown base? I'm guessing Agrax wash the drybrush what?

>> No.32756008

For wood I like to base with a dark dark brown, hit it with a medium brown, then do some woodgrain with tan and whitish tan highlights, then hit it all with agrax earthshade

>> No.32757535

Sarge Hairgel?

The heads from the Nipples Guard or Death Company are nicer imo.

>> No.32757887

You did that because you wanted to. You don't have a wife. You don't have a daughter. If you did you would post pictures of their anus holes

>> No.32757896

My workbench is starting to get crowded.

>> No.32757933

Oh my..
I seriously need to get around to painting some of these sultry eldar.

>> No.32758271

Workin on a base for a dwarf cannon and crew from KoW gonna prime and see how far I can get today

>> No.32758526

Last thing I did

>> No.32758555

what I'm working on now

>> No.32759529

Well i feel silly, that kinda looked like a sandwich of some sort on the thumbnail.

>> No.32759598


>> No.32759633

There are quite a few that are not scream though most are bald.
But luckily GW designed most of their kits to be interchangable, so if you look through the other ranges (fantasy too) you should be able to find loads of head you like.
Failing that just google 28mm heads and you'l find a bunch of aftermarket products that are conveniently scaled to be compatible with the products of the biggest company in the business.

>> No.32759658

>to find loads of head you like
I accidentally my post.
But you get the point. Just no head.

>> No.32759957


>> No.32760282

Preparing some leaves for dryads, treekin and treemen. Cut them to various sizes and spraying. Going to do em in a mix or of orange to red in about 3:2 ratio.

>> No.32760537

Accidentally primed before flocking. Waiting for glue to dry then will basecoat. Never painted stone before (actually just started painting again in general so any tips are appreciated)

>> No.32760594

where did you get those? they look perfect for wood elves.

>> No.32761032

Painting stone is quite easy, basecoat the stones with a dark color and then drybrush it with gray

>> No.32761380

What I do on occassion is noise reduction on my computer. I'm not sure why I feel the urge to impress strangers anonymously.

>> No.32761508

I guess he got them in that place they call "outside". Freaky.

>> No.32761555

Reposting my dreadnoughts because...uh, because shut up, that's why.

>> No.32761957

Ill see your reposted dreads and raise you a Word Bearing pair of... Chaplains... Yes loyalist, church is in session

>> No.32762091


They're very very dark for sallies or I'm guessing they're sallies anyway. Anyway, put some highlights on them and some orange/yellow on the flames.

>> No.32762444

woah hold on champ this is too eretic even for me

>> No.32762571

I'll counter with my own reposted trio of dark green dreadnoughts.

>> No.32762606


Is this SoB seraphim? It looks like one.

>> No.32762658

More progress on my shield/power generator. I'm putting on some polish and looking for any feedback you guys have

>> No.32762689

Another view, showing the ladder

>> No.32762690

How much would I have to pay you to make me one of those?

>> No.32762717

I have no idea what it is or what it does but I want an orky one.

>> No.32762753


As if. They are the leaf foliage 'fall' set from Woodland Scenics. And yes they will be for my dryads.

>> No.32762762

Looks good! Did you make that yourself?

>> No.32762816

It's supposed to be the Void Shield Generator from Stronghold Assault.

>> No.32762832

They're a homebrew chapter with some slight ties to the Sallies, so they're meant to be darker.
What highlight colors would be good for them?

>> No.32762838

>those blades
it looks fucking silly
but i like it

>> No.32762845

Eventually I'll offer them for sale. And not at a price like a certain company I can name sells them for. That day is coming closer but I gotta learn some more things to finish putting together the instructions. Then I gotta figure out packaging and an order process.

Thanks! I did. I designed it in Inventor and Autocad, then used a laser cutter on 1/8 inch MDF wood and 1/32 inch chipboard

>> No.32762863

I call your dreadnought bluff!

>> No.32762865

They're the rudders off of Dark Eldar raiders.

>> No.32762908

That middle one looks silly.
I like it.

>> No.32762928

I'll raise you a Scourge with cool wings

>> No.32763116


What's goblin green called these days? It's a nice and visible green but it's not so bright that it becomes a glow effect like moot green.

>> No.32763117

These look great, good job. I love the base of the Apostle.

>> No.32763144

warpstone glow

>> No.32763214

Been working on making these guys into Pink Horrors, the middle guy needs some final touches or is otherwise done, the guys on the side need some washing.

>> No.32763227

I only have one model with wings

1 v 1 me faggot, Ill bust your purple slaanesh ass, swear on me mum

>> No.32763260

Forgot the ass buster

>> No.32763306

that is some impressive greenstuff work with the axe, is it all greenstuff?

>> No.32763354


Looks greenstuff press moulded to me

>> No.32763503

Very nice, I'd never thought to use chipboard. Where did you get your MDF?

>> No.32763637

Soccer went well for the dutch, dayum

Bumping the thread and then I'm off, going to need a lot of sleep to do his backpack without fucking up everything. How the fuck are DV models starter models. Sure, they're easy to glue together but they are SO goddamn much harder to paint than regular kits.

>> No.32763915

Thank you! I get it from a local lumber supplier, but I'm looking for other sources because they're resisting the idea of cutting the standard 4' x 8' panels down to the size I need on a regular basis.

Chipboard was actually suggested to me by a friend. And looking into it... it's actually pretty appealing. I can get a case of 500 sheets that's already a good size. If MDF proves to be not worth it, I'll probably end up going with chipboard from here on out.

>> No.32764061

I usually get my MDF from http://woodnshop.net/, though shipping is pretty expensive for something that heavy.

How consistent is the thickness on chipboard and how durable is it? From what I'm seeing, it comes in gobs of thicknesses.

>> No.32764378

The chipboards I got are very consistent. And it's the same durability as a cereal box. So If I were to design something made entirely of chipboard, I'd think about doubling up on the thickness where possible to give the model more overall strength. But I'm no expert on the material by any means. I've mostly been learning as I go.

I got mine from here https://www.esupplystore.com/Chipboard-Pads_c_612.html

But like you said, shipping is expensive.

I have to go for tonight but I'll check back on this thread another time. Thanks for the support so far, everyone!

>> No.32764420

Thank you for the tips, and again, that shield generator is something to be very proud of.

>> No.32764714

Update on this. Might not be the most exciting wip but I've always wanted to post in a thread like this haha one more drybrush for the stone then I'll do the sand and rocks. Any advice to make the rocks look different from the stones? Alternative colors maybe?

>> No.32764840

Making the rocks mostly dirt-colored would differentiate them nicely, I think.

>> No.32764964

makin dat progress

>> No.32765417

Posted these in the last one, but right at the tail end of it. My WIP Etolis Mortants for my Bauhaus army.

>> No.32765462

I'll soloall three of you heretics!

>> No.32765519

So, I just bought some Krylon white flat to substitute GW's skull white spray. Would I be alright to use it to prime my Khan on moondrakken?

>> No.32765573

I don't see why not. Just do a test model, can't be any worse than the white spray gw uses. Shit never seems to go on smooth for me.

>> No.32765643

That cloak is awesome, but that sword is too boring to dominate the model like that. You'd better paint one hell of a force sword effect to make up for it (not that I could)...that cloak is awesome though.

>> No.32765657

Oh yeah? You and what army?

I see your slaaneshy Ape booty in the background you doubleheretic.

>> No.32765685

It goes on fine but putting any citadel or vallejo paints onto the krylon has problems (in my experience)
it rubs off very easily, even washes.

>> No.32765690

I can't help it but these guys are somewhere between the village people and those corny 90s techno videos.
Kind of wanna play that music when I look at them.

>> No.32765730

Interesting that you used chipboard, I tend to find it is far less durable than mdf.

>> No.32765747


>> No.32765811

my thoughts exactly.

>> No.32765939

Well I'm done with this. I forgot how much time it takes to make a good base. Not bad for a piece of cardboard. Now to paint the damn minis that will go on this thing.

>> No.32765962

Kinda regretting this color scheme but I'm already too far to turn back.

>> No.32766021

I know you didn't just say that! Hold me back bro! Hold me back!

>> No.32766155

Calm down, Dave, he's not worth it!

>> No.32766472

Why are you using metallics on a wet palette?

Here's my current WiP - 20 Harpies kitbashed.

>> No.32766570

How should I base them? I mean - flying base or regular 25 mm base?

>> No.32767805

Internet went down today, so I spent the time painting.

>> No.32767829


>> No.32767842

Why would the death company be holding anyone back?

>> No.32767865

Got all the caverns of roxor heroes done. Gonna order the core set soon, I think. Forgotten King's pledge manager is at the end of the month, so I might hold off and buy everything from that.

>> No.32768110

Still have no idea what I'm trying to accomplish. Even less of an idea what to do on the guns.

>> No.32768334

Needs bigger boobs.

>> No.32768391

You should put hot rod flames/stripes on it.

>> No.32768648


They just don't look right.

>> No.32768856

Podium guy I painted about a year ago, I tried to touch him up, but he's not as good as DV dude.
It's a wash of red/orange. I intend to redo his staff lighter, and his top peice of staff is Magnitized so I can weapon swap him.

I'm happy with both peices, but I'd like to be happier. I just had to draw the line at some point and settle. I am open to suggestions. Basing will help too.

>> No.32769323

Anyone know what the Anon with the skinless haemonculi coven has been up to?

>> No.32769430

Am I the only one that thinks it looks kinda like Ripley?

>> No.32770053

How many retries does a person get with metal models if they strip the paint?

>> No.32770161

as many times as you can strip it

>> No.32770215

Good. Because I realized I suck at painting today and want to give it better shot sometime down the line.

>> No.32770365

Just tried out magnetising for the first time.

Magnetised the combi-plasma hand of a tac sergeant so I can swap it out with other combi-weapons/pistols.

Next step: magnetising a rhino/razorback so I can swap between rhino and razorback.

>> No.32770829

Why magnitize them? Rhino only has the doors instead of the gun, and they fit in the same place. You can just slide the gun and top off, and put the doors in that place.

>> No.32770925

That hatch is what I'll be magnetising.

If you mean I can just leave them unglued and swap them, I know but I don't want them falling apart. That's what the magnets are for.

>> No.32771036

are you gonna paint them?

>> No.32771111

Here's some WIP mobile terrain. A simple broken building with random crap found lying around in my workshop.

>> No.32772208

Very cute, but maybe you can correct the eyes black outline with flesh

>> No.32772226

Union workers eh? Looks nice as shit, in a good way.

>> No.32772244

Metal models are better and safer for stripping than plastics, since they don't break easily.

>> No.32773080

Got a Titan restoration project on the go, got one on the cheap but it was badly painted and needed pinning.

So far I've re-done the base and started airbrushing panels. Today I'll try to get it pinned

Should hopefully get some pictures up today

>> No.32773201

I just tried to use some liquis mask. After 5 minutes repairing my brush, and 10 minutes trying to use a bit of wood from an ice cream stick, I gave up. Is there any way to slow the drying?

>> No.32773289


That's... kind of... oh wow. The red or the purple would have worked just fine with a blue or grey

>> No.32773389

You could try to use a darker purple with highlights. From almost black to your current color

>> No.32773406


Or the exact opposite for the cloth on your troops, keep this purple as your base and mix purple with light grey to make it stand out more.

>> No.32773638

I have to take photos of my latest, and retake some of other miniatures, but here is one I painted this year.

>> No.32773649


>> No.32773660


>> No.32773699

I lke them, how did you do the basing?

>> No.32773716

Is it possible to thin paint too much? I've noticed that when I feel like I might have used too much water that the paint just pools in the small gaps like a wash would. With sufficient layers would something like that smooth out?

>> No.32773858


Errrr yes, you want it to flow, not become water. For different effects, use different viscosity. For example, your wash-thin paint is ideal for blending BUT you have to wipe off the excess paint on a palette before you use it or it will run into recesses and fuck up all your precious detail.

Thinning your paints for beginners is more about keeping your details crisp and not showing brush strokes.

>> No.32773888

But /tg/ told me to thin my paints.

>> No.32773908


And you should, just like you should continue to breathe and use your brain. Obviously it's not going to end well if you pour a liter of water on a drop of paint.

>> No.32773909

And you absolutely should. In moderation.
It's usually said to be best thin to the consistency of milk for most regular painting.

With some practice you'll find out how and when to thin for what you want to do.

>> No.32773926

>consistency of milk
What consistency does milk have?

>> No.32773943


>> No.32774059

>go to fridge
>pour yourself a glass of milk
Now you know what consistency milk has.

>> No.32774094

Milk consistency. If you were to swirl it in a cup, I would go up the side, and slide back down without splashing, Nor will it leave liquid on the sides.

>> No.32774122

Is it possible to sell these things I have a few Space Marine heroes assembled and unpainted. Need money to buy a laptop.

>> No.32774454

Space Marines usually always sell for decent prices and unpainted minis are pretty good too, provided they are assembled properly and not covered in glue or have been damaged.

>> No.32774499

so... are there any dos or don'ts when you base a fllying stand?

>> No.32774513

Don't use superglue. It clouds the plastic.

>> No.32774533

good to know

>> No.32774677

Some kinds of superglue don't cloud it. Vapor-free? I can't remember the term.

>> No.32774945

If you want to keep the transparency of the stem, wait with gluing it on so you'll have an easier time priming and painting the base. Make sure to make room for the stem to actually glue onto the base when doing this method.

Also, dry-fit the position and orientation of the stem before committing to anything. You don't want the center of mass to be off on such a top-heavy model.

>> No.32775139

duly noted

>> No.32775157

Reposting my deffdread and stormboyz. Because i can.

>> No.32775179

>> No.32775210

Cant wait to paint these fuckers.

>> No.32775261

the one holding a sword bugs me. That gun is way to big and heavy for him to just let go with his other arm like that

>> No.32775290

I hope you're going to shoplift them and aren't actually going to pay $71 for 5 guys.

>> No.32775310

You could always model him to have his gun resting on the ground. Makes him stand out a bit more, too.

>> No.32775341


Its on a massive strap with a tripod so hes not carrying it.


I recently found a game store near me and everything is 10-20% off.
These cost me £25, which is obviously expensive, but the sprues are ridiculously good.

The place i found is great though.
Just imagine GW, but cheaper, more stuff, and no kids or faggots in fedoras.

>> No.32775394

This isn't the same as usual WIPs in that it isn't a plastic model, but I'm hoping to get to work on this in the next day or two. The card has some damage near the bottom but I haven't altered in years so it will serve as a good practice card, any ideas what I should do with it? Currently it is just going to be extended art alter, but any ideas would be appreciated.

>> No.32775439

You could extend the picture and paint over the flavor text, showing the river of souls below.

You now, take the Charon/River Styx theme a step further.

>> No.32775486

and one of the souls trying to climb aboard the ferry

>> No.32775881

only space marine flyer i like the look of (Thunderhawks are kinda okay too)

>> No.32776162

That could be a really cool concept, I want to keep the rules text in place (decreases chances of getting into an altercation with a THAT GUY who objects to a staple being textless that isn't a textless print) but I could possibly do an extension at the bottom of the rules text frame to have a hand reaching up into the text box, and have more hands/souls/whatever trying to get in the ferry. With the color palette of the base image, would other anons suggest pale, geisty style souls, or dark souls (dark like the sculler, dark like my soul etc. etc.) or greeny colored like the lake around them?

>> No.32776199

>> No.32777280

For normal minis I don't do the black outline at the eyes, but for the SDE minis I am, because I want them to look more cartoon-y and I want the eyes to really stand out.

>> No.32777293

Update on the titan ; got it pinned and standing again , looks a bit weird without it's base but you get the idea.

Also got the base coat on the upper half + weapons.

>> No.32777310

As you can see the original paint job wasn't the best.

>> No.32777344

Is that scratchbuilt or a recast? It looks weird.

>> No.32777669

Neither, it's the wolf version (see pic). Could be because the shin / groin panels aren't attached ? Most bits like that are currently off the model for painting.

>> No.32777693

Derp forgot the pic

>> No.32777857

Can anyone recommend a good paint brush brand?

>> No.32777876

Depends on your experience level.
Deltas are pretty reliable for people of all skill levels, they aren't great but they get shit painted well.

I personally love Westarts, you have to look after them (they won't bounce back to shape unlike some cheaper brushes) but if you look after them they will last you for years.

>> No.32778206

On the subject of these ladies, and my entire Bauhaus army for that matter, I need some advice on highlighting. The normal troops have Vallejo Medium Blue for their fatigues and I'm not sure what color to do highlighting on them with. I have P3 Cygnar Blue Highlight, but not sure how well that would work. Is there a good Vallejo color that would look okay?

Same with my Venusian Rangers, except their pants are P3 Ironhull Grey.

>> No.32778267

Just checked, Westarts are a local company so you likely won't have access to them. I would say go for Deltas, they are a good middle of the road brush for someone not needing to invest in serious gear but not wanting a shit brush that sheds even when cared for and fails to hold paint properly.

Assuming you are painting miniatures you probably want 1, 2 and 4 size round brushes, and a 4 or 6 flat brush. That should be more than enough for someone looking to dip their toes in more than a citadel starter brush, when you get more experience look into different sizes (0, 00, 000 and so on (smallest brush I currently use is a 5/0 Delta round), some more flats possibly (especially if you want to start getting into terrain) and a filbert, bright and fan (for specific things, if you need to ask why you would use them you probably don't need to use them yet).

>> No.32778280

>> No.32778355

So I'm looking to get into painting minis, mostly for DnD, but also because they're just cool. I have a couple laying around, but they're far too nice to practice on. Where can I get cheap minis to practice on, that I could possibly use for DnD? And can you link me to some guides on how to paint minis, like what I actually need, or offer any tips?

>> No.32778374

Oh, and I'm hoping to spend under $100, as I don't know how much I'll actually be into this after I try it.

>> No.32778403

One more thing, if painting with acrylics (as most here do) I would recommend you go for synthetic brushes. Hog's hair brushes are great for working with certain paints, but acrylics can have problems with them, whereas most synthetic brushes available have protection against some of the shit in acrylics.

tl:dr: Basically put, get a synthetic brush you are comfortable with, probably a 2 or 4 round. If you want to get several, get 1, 2 and 4 round and 4 or 6 flat. Look after your brushes and they will look after you. Don't be a lazy fucker, clean your brushes, make your shit pretty by keeping your brushes pretty. Don't break the bank, if you had to ask about brush brands you aren't at the level where the difference between a 5 dollar brush and a 20 dollar one is evident yet.

>> No.32778410

you could check out the reaper bones line. They all appear to be reasonable priced and fitting for DnD

>> No.32778415


Reaper and follow youtube tutorials. For starter stuff just pick up some army painter stuff. The quality is decent and the price is good.

>> No.32778434

Alright, thanks. Can you point me in the direction of some of the better youtube videos? I don't want to wander around, find some videos, and then find out later that they taught me everything wrong.

>> No.32778447


Buypainted is nice but really, it's rubbing a brush with paint on a surface

>> No.32778450


>> No.32778484

This looks like exactly what I was looking for.

Is their paint any good? It'd be nice if I could order everything from one place, though it looks like they don't sell any brushes

>> No.32778634

Alright, so I'm looking at buying the Army Painter Mega Hobby Set to start with, and then a couple of Reaper Bones minis. Would this be a good place to start?

>> No.32778775

Bought the big ol dryad and treeman box today. Slowly working through it. The aim is a 2000pt army in a month.

>> No.32779973

Is there anyway to strip citadel paint without killing the plastic. I just got back into the hobby and inherited some ghastly models from my brother. Any tips?

>> No.32780002

Fairy power spray bath overnight, then scrub with an old toothbrush

>> No.32780104

Wolf Titan is best titan.

>> No.32780127

Any kustom Ork Smasha Gun, Traktor Kannon, or KMK's yet?

>> No.32780147

>tfw playing Orks too long I spell custom with a K

>> No.32780345

Brake fluid works perfectly, but take care with that.

>> No.32780422


If you're in England, dettol (the brown shit) strips it amazingly well, I'm talking 5 hours and it's practically new. People will tell you it stinks, I don't have an issue with the smell, but if you're afraid of that then do it outside.

>> No.32780681

I am, so that's perfect. Is it in any hobby shop or somewhere particular?

>> No.32780716


It's hand sanitizer/wound disinfection stuff

>> No.32781148

Fairy Power spray is somewhat easier to get a hold of and works just as well. I know I struggled to get brown dettol locally

>> No.32781333


Really? Every supermarket and convenience store I've been to has the stuff, can't imagine it as hard to come by.

>> No.32781740

What's a good way to clip off the Mantic bases on their deadzone models without jacking up the feet?

Also, what's a good alternative to Army Painter primer?

>> No.32781788

Use your hobby knife.

Use airbrush.

>> No.32781843

>Also, what's a good alternative to Army Painter primer?
Go to your local department store and ask for primer they are about 5$ per-can where I live...

>> No.32781893


I can't quite seem to cut them off since they're on the mini circular bases that slot into the main base. Am I just stupid? If you've got a video or guide that'd help immensely.


Not in the budget atm.

Got a particular brand? The hobby store right next to my house sells the Citadel/Army Painter for like 5 bucks.

>> No.32781921


What's wrong with army painter primer? Works fine for me.

Anyway, get a good hobby saw and you can do precision cuts really well

>> No.32781926

I tend to use an airbrush as >>32781788 suggested but I've heard Halfords primers are good

>> No.32781986

I really like the outline. I meant it could be less "chaotic"

>> No.32782005

>The hobby store right next to my house sells the Citadel/Army Painter for like 5 bucks
Daym, must be nice... But like the other anon said, why change the brand if the price is not an issue?

>> No.32782027


Just looking if there's a cheaper/better option.

Also, is it called "Hobby Saw"? I just want to check, I'm getting ready to walk to the LGS to buy the stuff.

>> No.32782070


Yep, fine tooth hobby saw. X-acto makes good ones. Don't skimp out on the saw, it'll last you years and crappy ones snap like twigs and damage your models and maybe your eyes

>> No.32782092


I don't plan to. I'll look it up online, sounds expensive at the LGS.

>> No.32782113


Will that work on Restic? I've heard issues with sawing actions creates rippling on the material.

>> No.32782153


Expect to spend some 20 bucks on the saw alone, but it'll be one of the best hobby related investments you'll ever make

>got some DV sets cheap from some retard who wouldn't sell his metal DE models to me separately
>already had DV
>now I have fucking FIVE dark vengeance dark angels sets and three chaos ones

Hobby saw lets me cut off arms, weapons, heads with minimum damage to the models. Essentially I'm building a huge varied army for almost no money thanks to my trusty saw.

If only I didn't suck at painting!

>> No.32782205


>> No.32782252

What method did you use for the skin on these?

Having serious trouble with orky skin for my boyz

>> No.32782288

Am I the only person who thinks these are ugly and stupid looking as sin?

>> No.32782292


Ha, yeah I know right!

They're my practice models, got a ton of them for almost free. My real army will be dark eldar. I did shave them down and brush primed them but that leaves a much brighter spot on the paint somehow, which mainly shows in the pictures but not really in real life.

>> No.32782305

Razor saw is another term for it.

>> No.32782313


They're a bits kit, much like the commander for space marines. They don't have to be pretty, they just have to contain a lot of bits.

>> No.32783068

You know you can just put primer on the card, right?

>> No.32783763

Painting this spooky guy.

>> No.32784651


Makes me want to get a wight king

I don't play fantasy

>> No.32784784

Is this good?

>> No.32784859


>> No.32785046

That seems perfect, have fun cutting, but be careful with resin, you dust and breakages and such.

>> No.32785596

I painted some bauhaus guys myself

>> No.32785640

Fantastic work.

I'm painting up some Perry miniature.

>> No.32786796 [SPOILER] 


>> No.32786799

Is that from one of Perry's african ranges?
I honestly hadn't considered painting them white

>> No.32787343

Yes it is.

>> No.32787368

Which one? And if I may pry, what's that model going towards? Barbarians are relative to my interests

>> No.32787487

Painting them to be slaves of mordor, from the Nurn Sea area, where the food is grown for the Orcs.

This is an old pic of what I use to paint them like.

>> No.32787529


There is a guy thats painted them up like greek peltasts too, they are white.

>> No.32787544


Heh, can't even catch a break in a different universe

>> No.32787588

bretty cool, bruh.

>> No.32788407

>> No.32788500

These are a grey knight squad im usuing for a deathwatch campagin

>> No.32788518

Looks good, that one on the right still looks really black, though the left is a good choice.

>> No.32788554

also broke two hammers.

>> No.32788568

Is that rust? That'd better not be rust.
If that's rust I'm going to be most displeased.

>> No.32788623

Hey guys, know any decent youtube channels?
I'm specifically after a primer on mediums.

Why all of those goddamn mouthbreathing social retards think it would be a good idea to 'bless' the world with poorly edited, poorly thought out, poorly lit, overly long fucking videos aaargh

>> No.32788674

nooo, god no, its dirt from xeno fighting, its why the snow is dirty too. Also they arent actually grey knights, they are just models for the players to use if they havent brought their own.

>> No.32788680

are they supposed to be in the snow

>> No.32788762


>> No.32788800

No, it's blow. I imagine the campaign is some sort of 40k Scarface parody, these are the miniatures immediately after the mountain of coke scene.

>> No.32788807

I think the armour and weapons are done really well, but the eyes look really flat. You should use a darker blue tone to put some depth in there.

>> No.32788921

If they're in snow it makes the dirt on the guns look out of place in my humble opinion.

>> No.32788965

I did initally, but it the flash kinda hides it. Just never really been good at doing eyes just. those and hands.

>> No.32789016

Picture this enviroment.

>> No.32789104

How fiddly is learning those programs? I'd really like to design a 40k M113 for a Chimera and a Panzer III/IV for my chaos forces.

I can do fine with pen and paper but CAD programs make me feel like an old fart trying to learn to use a computer.

Thinking about giving up and just commissioning somebody to do it for me.

>> No.32789124


Are the DZ minis prone to breaking?

Also, dust?

>> No.32789158


Putting that much work into slaves....

You sir are either a masochist or love painting.

I applaud you either way.

>> No.32789177

You do not want to inhale resin dust.

>> No.32789212

I see.

>> No.32789237

>trying to get me to post my daughter

creepy dude

>> No.32789388

You should ink in between the stones with a brown/black mix or soemthing.

SDE represent. Nice work.

Metallic nids are a funky concept, I like the execution.

Electric! (That's good)

>> No.32789443

What'd you do to make that grey armor look so good?

>> No.32789826

I did some blending dude, also I use lacquer paints/ if you want i can link you the stuff i used?

>> No.32790314

I heard there was a walker rumble going on, can I join? (sorry for the flash, lights are crappy in my room)

>> No.32791470

I'm OCD I can't have the center pieces of my army looking too much better than the rest!

Of course now I have an incomplete army that I hope one day I'll dig deep and get finished

>> No.32792141

Praetorian swordsmen + UA done.

>> No.32792323

and I'm retarded

>> No.32793026

Anybody got a good resource on airbrush brands?
Starting to think it's unavoidable if I want god-tier jobs on vehicles.

>> No.32793035

Eventually. These were just prototypes. There's been plenty of flaws that I don't spot in the design programs, but that are uncovered once I actually assemble the model. This one is incredibly close to a final version though.

I'm unsure how to answer that because I used to use AutoCAD professionally. I took an introductory course in both AutoCAD and Inventor back when I was going to school.

I got a job doing land surveying and eventually drawing maps for lots and subdivisions in AutoCAD. I didn't touch Inventor again until I started doing this laser stuff. But since Inventor heavily builds off of concepts in AutoCAD, it was very easy for me to pick that back up and learn more things with it.

To me, it's much harder to brainstorm ideas and eventually come up with how I want the model to look like than it is to operate the program simply because I have a few years experience doing harder things with them.

If this helps at all, my opinion is that 3d programs like 3DS Max and Maya are built with artists in mind. AutoCAD and Inventor are built with engineers, architects, land surveyors, etc. in mind. It's "looking good" vs "I need to be able to input precise measurements". For making models with a laser cutter, precise measurements are required.

In summary, and as a TL;DR, If you're not a person that is comfortable with math in general and geometry in specific, logic, solving problems/puzzles, and able to think of 3d objects in terms of angles and distances, then I'd think that you'd find these programs to be very fiddly because these two programs are built for those people.

>> No.32793130


>> No.32793281

finished these a while ago, would like to hear your thoughts

>> No.32793302

cheers for that

>> No.32793312


>> No.32793556

needing a good wash
outside of that its p good
a little bit of outside the lines
and he has a thousand yard stare going

>> No.32793719

You can, but an erase job leads to a smoother finish in my own experience.

>> No.32794635

I'm trying to give a new life to this ass-old miniature.

>> No.32794807


....I'm sorry, I've really got nothing to contribute. You've got a nice bu-model. The colors look nice together, doesn't look like it's thickly painted. It might need a little touching up, but nothing serious. Not ass bad as some I've seen. What's the bottom - I mean, problem?

>> No.32794842


>> No.32794959


>What's the bottom - I mean, problem?
The boots. Light-grey higlights don't look that well.

>> No.32795077

What model is that? I think I might have one that looks similar to it, maybe the same set.

>> No.32795097


It's an old warzone model - etoiles mortant sergant - if I remember well.

>> No.32795137

I have an Iwata airbrush (around 60€) and I'm very happy with it. If you have big miniatures, you wont regret buying one

>> No.32795171

Interesting. I have a lady who looks a lot like that, but she's got her sword out instead.

Veeeeery interesting. Thanks anon.

>> No.32795196


It could be one of the regular girls/etoiles mortant hero.

>> No.32795228

Working on the Knight Titan tonight.

>> No.32795231

Aw shit, look at that. You're full of awesome things today.

Gold star anon, thanks.

>> No.32795240

Just thin your paints

>> No.32795259

good start on the eye. make a slightly brighter center of the center

>> No.32795260

Anyone want to give me feedback on my Giant Rats?

Working on a variant "Hell Pit" army I'm writing custom rules for, updating from old WD310.

I'll post Throtlings if anyone is interested.

>> No.32795278

Might be my favorite.

>> No.32795313


>Bases are custom milliput from a GS mold.

>"Straw" is an old disposable paintbrush dyed with Army Painter brand "Strong Tone".

>> No.32795317

Well played anon, I do already thin my paints, but putting a primer layer over the glossy card surface is unneeded waste when you can do an erase job on the ink printing and be left with very nice card to work with. Paints need to be thin anyway, so as not to thicken the surface of the card.

>> No.32795490


They look good. Quite glossy though, did you dip them., or is it just the lighting?

>> No.32795549


I don't like your attitude anon, this is /tg/ not /b/, i like to think we are more civilized on this board, from now we are enemies anon, begone with you uneducated dog.

Also a warboss i painted a few days ago.

>> No.32795704

But erasing the card is much more time consuming, and you can get as good results with primer

>> No.32795713

Very nice fur

>> No.32795717

Postan my WIP Necromunda Ash Waste Nomads.
The undercoat makes it a little tricky to see.

I can try and get some better photos if anyone cares enough.

>> No.32795727

Don't listen to him, the correct thing to do would be to just ignore asshole like that. We ARE better on this board.

>> No.32795984

This. Keep the outline, it looks awesome.

>> No.32796055

Does anybody else see the smiling asian face on the destroyers midsection...

>> No.32796070


He just saw a loli or something

>> No.32796226

So for my 1500 point list, I have a Librarian and a Chapter Master, both on bikes, but the default models are so... bland. I was thinking about ordering the Raven Guard upgrade pack from Forgeworld, but which Libbi model would I want to use to place on a bike base? I was thinking about the one with the Force Axe on the GW website, but I can't seem to find the pieces before they're all cut out. Thoughts or recommendations? I'm planning on making them sexy as fuck.

>> No.32796608

>Time consuming
Yes, but I am willing to put the time in

>you can get as good results with primer
I personally cannot, the results I get from erasing work out better (especially on cards with lighter backgrounds than the one shown). I wouldn't erase on a black background, for example, but for lighter backgrounds I would.

>> No.32796676

Seeing as this ends up being the de facto modelling thread, does anybody do replacement legs for CSMs? I'd like some running legs and also some more handsome ones for the FW Plague Marines, there's only a couple of usable ones from the beserkers sprue and there's no near-straight legs with decorative armour that I'm aware of.

>> No.32796733

Buy lots of the Chosen from the Dark Vengeance starter set, cut them apart at the waist en-masse and use them along with Forge World Mk IV for an army of Marines in non-shit poses?

>> No.32796753

Anvil industries
might give you a start

>> No.32796798

>but I can't seem to find the pieces before they're all cut out.
It comes in two pieces.

>> No.32796835

Three, including the backpack.

>> No.32797048

Cheers for that, haven't bought anything for maybe 4 years now, getting an itch to paint some stuff.

The bits market has blown up big.

>> No.32797072

I've seem the plague marine upgrade kits converted using mk2 armour. Looks sexy af

>> No.32797151

Yeah, damn. 3rd party arms, maybe some of the really old school backpacks if I can find any, 3rd party backpacks on this would look amazing. They would be a great vehicle to improve my painting skills too.

>> No.32797173

My fucking negroid. Love these, especially their little toes.

>> No.32797412

Here is my attempt to convert to a Loota

d-does it look tabletop ready g-guys?

>> No.32797577

Desperately calls for some drilled barrels.

>> No.32797680

I'd go with the Dark Vengeance Chaos backpacks if you can get them

>> No.32797772

most stuff is done, still have 25 warriors, 10 wraithguard, 3 wraithlords, 2 scorpions and 14 jetbikes to go

>> No.32797785

Damn nigga, just need some exodites and FW toys to top it off

>> No.32797804

I have a cobra mostly painted and am in the process of prepping 2 scorpions for basecoats.

Exodites are a good idea though.

>> No.32797963

Mournfang Cavalery in progress

>> No.32798141

How are you going to paint the pilot? Or is this just tac'ed together?

>> No.32798157

Methods for orky skin with the upcoming dex?

I know there's a shitton, looking for some more detailed method for my boss and such.

>> No.32798309

No tac, but it is just a mock up. The pilot is just placed in, nothing hard to reach is glued yet, same with >>32775881. Wings in the first one are even just being held up by paint bottles

Actually finished the cockpit details earlier and glued it, will take another picture at some point

>> No.32798694

you mean Ridley, right?

>> No.32798877

No he means Riply that metroid thing.

>> No.32798933

>tfw you only like to assemble and prime

Fuck ...

>> No.32798945


>> No.32798948

>tfw only like painting if it's spending lots of time on a single unit
>never, ever assemble before painting

I have so, so, so, so many unpainted, unassembled troop choices

>> No.32799010

which is called RiDley

>> No.32799025

>never, ever assemble before painting
I could shot myself in the foot for doing that with my CSM.

Might do that with my nids ... and VC units, but not with a small amount of models.

>> No.32799118

Bumping for answers. As a complete airbrush nub it's hard to properly judge sources.

>> No.32799276

painting before assembling is for shit stain plebs.

you're only excused for not gluing something like a gun across the chest or something like that, before painting

>> No.32799537

Anyone got a suggestion for a good/cheap hobby drill and hobby snips?

Also, where can I get clear bases for the cheap?

>> No.32799553

sub assembly method is patrish

>> No.32799574

>hobby snips
craft store, jewellery tools
as for the drill, I dunno. You want powered or a pin vice?

>> No.32799705

I need to paint some Renegade Ogryns. It's time to stop putting off trying to paint realistic skin, anybody got good guides?

>> No.32799770

so /tg/, tell me what you think, I've been thinking of doing a twitch stream while I paint, good idea, bad idea?

I need distractions to help me paint longer and bullshitting on chat seems like a good idea.

>> No.32799800

Never mind, just had to fiddle with the search terms a bit.

>> No.32799863

>Brother Skaven Warlord!
>Brown army


>> No.32799887

Thread's probably dead, but I finished a bunch of these today

>> No.32799897

I imagine it's because Rattus rattus is a dying species, so he'd rather paint them like R. norwegicus.

>> No.32799906

But-but all the brown! Brown everywhere!

>> No.32799907

norvegicus* '
it's getting late

>> No.32800020


>> No.32800071


I reckon the narrow palette is effective. Bronze, black, brown fur, wooden shield.

>> No.32800118

effective but it is such a sore on the eyes

>> No.32800123


>> No.32800136

I like em, that glossy seal makes them look like they're covered in chaosy ick

>> No.32800169

Crop these before posting to save everyone else time.

Highlighting scheme is unusual, but good.

>> No.32800187

Could be fun to be honest.

>> No.32800246

Thanks, sorry about the size

>> No.32800256

fuck, did it again

>> No.32800270

got some more done, all edge highlighted and I added a flaming skull to the top hatch (was going to do an arrow), Need some way to hand embellish the skull or find some way to make it look less flat

>> No.32800283

theyre so.......gooey

>> No.32800357

Warning; massive, annoying picture attached.

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