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/tg/ - Traditional Games

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[ERROR] No.27870879 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Didn't see one, so I made one.

>> No.27871108

Today is boy painting day. Wonder how long will I take to paint 11...

>> No.27871315

Drill out those barrels.

>> No.27871324

>> No.27871341


That sounded way more pedo than you intended it to be.

>> No.27871348

Doing this for a friend. It's supposed to be a Salamander.

Opinions so far?

>> No.27871389

>> No.27871406

The green looks very desaturated in that pic making him look like a Relictor.

>> No.27871450

It's bad lighting. But trust me it's green.

Then again, I'm using some eh paints. I got the green by mixing a little bit of black in it. I think I'll do another layer of the green without black just to make it more green.

>> No.27871576

>> No.27871644


>> No.27871731

Here's a true-scale Word Bearer I still haven't finished.

>> No.27871781

Here are some Cryx.

Deryliss and Mortenebra

>> No.27871808

Warwitch Siren and Necrotech

>> No.27871824


>> No.27871923

Bioshock big daddy and little sister

>> No.27872341

The green needs more layers.

>> No.27872421

Besides GW paints. Whats a good metalic paint. I have 3 and they're all bedazzled and look like shit.

>> No.27873431

>> No.27874143


>> No.27874175


Vallejo Liquid Gold.

>> No.27875503

How do I make this guy "pop", /tg/? Blonde hair? (Brown with yellow/tan drybrush)

What about the axe? What color?

His cape? How the fuck does it fit?

Also, what's with people putting there horrendously painted models on eBay for hundreds/thousands like muh painted models price goes up!

Inb4 your nails anon! Suck it they for scratching

>> No.27875542

Army painter ain't bad either, just have to shake the FUCK out of it.

>> No.27875581

WIP on my chosen Squad for my Legion.

>> No.27875879

i missed the end of the last bread so repostin' my Lahmian Necromancer

>> No.27876005

Ginger hair

>> No.27876024

Nice work dude

>> No.27876042

Excellent pose on number two.

>> No.27876057

Fucking awesome

>> No.27876733

whats wrong with the resin on those guys? they seem really miscolored

pic related my first shitty landraider that ive been working on for months, hence why its still dryfit together

>> No.27876903


>> No.27878088

I will finish Island of Blood soon, so anon, any recommendation for my next project?

>> No.27878130


>> No.27878182


>> No.27878212

Looks pretty cool, who makes that mini?

>> No.27878729

Test model for my Red Scorpions.

I've bought another grey I'll use which is slightly darker which means I'll get another step of highlights.
Also neatened up the shoulderpad around the freehand.

The actual army will use transfers though because fuck freehanding 5000 points worth of shoulderpads.

>> No.27878735


That grey is already bordering on almost too dark.

>> No.27878751


Only because of my shitty Iphone camera and the yellow lighting.
IRL it's much brighter.

Should probably have waited to post until I got home and could take a better photo.

>> No.27878756

I'm about to start making my own gaming table this afternoon. Any have any suggestions, or mistakes that I should learn from before begin?

>> No.27878765


>> No.27878773

Your freehand-fu is strong.

>> No.27878792

Why people dont even bother to wheel their pics? Asking advices and being so lazy to just hit a few buttons. Really guys..

>> No.27878802


Because Apple products are shit.

They show up fine but if you transfer them to PC or post them online the rotation gets fucked up.

>> No.27878816

drill your barrels
thin yer metalics
wash the metalics

>> No.27878836

could you give a quick tutorial what to do with chest bits to make them not look tiny on true scale minies?

>> No.27879182

Been trying to make a pauldron stamp for Fists, next post will be a tuto I made on how to do this one

>> No.27879188

The tutorial I promised

>> No.27879208

Also been working a bit on a my freehand...

>> No.27879214

... and wetblending, which are both kinda meh still. But I'm learning

>> No.27879228

Before I re-started painting last week, last I painted was in summer 2012. This was the best piece I done at that point (Jokaero conversion for a Rogue Trader army using Coteaz henchmen list)

>> No.27879245

That army also got me practicing OSL some more back then. I'm slowly getting the hang of it, but I only had a bit over a week to assemble and paint the 1000 points army for a tournament back then, so while it was satisfying to have it finished on time (unlike 2/3rd of the participants, apparently), the OCD in me isin't satisfied with the knowledge "I could have done better"

>> No.27879261

Why not just use the transfers that come with every space marine kit?

>> No.27879272

And my last post for now I guess, my favorite conversions for that RT army.

I really should take a photoshoot of them now that they're painted though.

>> No.27879282

Because I'm trying to get better so I can freehand custom chapter symbols, and other such stuff, like banners.

I'm in it for the hobby aspect mostly.
Also, I'm not a big fan of transfers, for many reasons.

>> No.27879477

I just got HE battalion box to get my army started. Could you guys give me some tips other than that thin paints?

>> No.27879512

I guess I should've mentioined that I haven't painted for 12 years (I was 12 years old then), so my skills aren't that high, yet.

I'm planning to do a red clothes with yellow details and/or trimming.

>> No.27879529

i haven't been painting since around june
do you guys know if my paints are still good to go? or do i have to buy new ones?
(gw paints)

>> No.27879557

I'm using paints from two years ago.

You just need to add more water and mix well.

>> No.27879562

thx bro

>> No.27880477

I used a chaos terminator chest with the hood cut off and the back of a tactical marine. I put the pieces together with a bit of plasticard between them and then filled in the gaps with green stuff. This makes the chest thicker.

I also cut the belt from the back and added more green stuff to make the back longer.

>> No.27881176

come back when you paint 30.

>> No.27881187

he said want, not what.

>> No.27881541

it's an OOP Freebooter Mage*

thanks, love doing me some freehand; next i gotta work out what i'm gonna paint on the Banner Of The Barrows for my Graveguard; google was less than helpful!

>pic related
's my other standard banner

* may not be OOP but i couldn't find it on their site

>> No.27882297

I don't want this thread to die.

>> No.27882758

Well then allow me to ask a question to try and liven it up. I picked up an Island of Blood boxset for WHFB and I'm looking up what paints I need to have a crack at them.
From what I've read/watched I should be priming them white, then painting metal, fabric and flesh in a (suitable) block colour. After I should go over them in a lighter or darker shade of colour to give it a bit more detail. Am I going down the right path or have I misthought? Bear I mind I don't have much talent or any practice, I just would like them to not look like they had a paint factory explode onto them

>> No.27882922

Sound like you've done your research.

Here's a painting tutorial:

And how to thin your paints:

Best of luck.

>> No.27883050

>That image
jesus christ. Helpful and entertaining, thanks for the laugh

>> No.27883449

>Trying to do iron hands
>just started painting a month ago
Any tips for a new painter? I already know to THIN YOUR PAINTS! but are there any others?

>> No.27883480

It's recasted by your truly, just kinda how my resin color came out.

>> No.27883533


see TWO posts above: >>27882922

There we go.

>> No.27883920

holy shit nice job

>> No.27884108


Here's an updated version.

Added brighter highlights and took the photo under a daylight bulb to show the true colours.

>> No.27884183

That looks really nice.

>> No.27884273



Got another 100+ marines plus 9 tanks and 2 flyers so it's good to know I can paint one of these fuckers up in very little time.

Had about 5000p of Ultramarines that i were going to repaint to Raven Guard but then Realized how boring their scheme was.
Much happier with this one.

>> No.27884280

just got a lot of skaven from a guy
also, 40 clanrats from island of blood
should i paint them all in one session or divide them in 2 groups of 20?

>> No.27884291


Divide them or you'll burn yourself out.

Even 20 is pushing it for most people.

>> No.27884312

woah man
also, how many fillers can i put in a unit? wanted to use my ratogres for once

>> No.27884317

No progress whatsoever.

Need to redo that purity seal.

>> No.27884445


I'd use max 1 per 20 as they are quite large.

>> No.27884505



I love the "Lego" red you've achieved.

>> No.27884554

It's primer, not done with the body or left shoulder.

>> No.27884576


I kinda guessed.

Looking forward to seeing it finished, always liked the Exorcists.

>> No.27884685

Thank you.

It may eventually get done, someday.

>> No.27884703

How id you make the chapter symbol?

>> No.27884758

Green stuff and sculpting tools.

Helped that I spent a few months drawing bones a few years ago.

>> No.27884884

Can someone explain the different model types to me?

What kind is the grey model and what type is the yellowish white?

I know what the metal ones look like.

>> No.27885067

Was given 3 metal hormagants and a gargoyle, so been painting them. 3 space hulk(?) genestealers sitting in simple green because they were coated in this piss yellow primer.
I just washed it in a mix of minwax and gloss varnish. thins the minwax better than water and protects very well. once it dries I'll be matt varnishing the body, keeping the talons and carapace glossy.

>> No.27885133

Are you talking about materials?
The gray is usually plastic, and i guess you're talking about resin with the yellowish white. But resin comes in different colors and brittleness, some are greener, some are whiter, some are more yellow.
Resin is easy to cut, but it's brittle, so it's not as good as plastic for modelling. Plastic can take more bending and return to their basic shape, but are slightly harder to cut, but still miles easier than metal.

>> No.27885154

Exactly what I meant. Thanks for answering.

>> No.27885465

what color is better for a unit of skaven? light green or camo green?

>> No.27887793

What's a good way to paint rocks? Like the one that comes with the terminator chaos lord or the one on the helbrute

>> No.27888443

I usually paint Adeptus Battlegrey (Or whatever the new one is called) then lightly drybrush lighter shades of grey. Or I just use actual rock and slate.

>> No.27889224

Quick question, canvassing for opinions:

6mm Tanks;

Prime in White, Grey, Black or Brown?

>> No.27889925

So here's my first try at a rock. It's for my terminator chaos lord. What does /tg/ think?

>> No.27889951

Looks solid.

>> No.27889994

It Rocks.

>> No.27890021

A brother-in-law gifted me a bunch of his old 40k stuff, so I've been off and on cleaning it up/selling it. This was a Manticore that was in bad shape. Printed out a new set of Missiles as the fins on his were all too thin and broken off. I also printed out a hatch as the other one was missing. Filled and sanded down the seams on the track guards and added some extra bits. Just got it primed today and I'll be basing it with rust tomorrow.

>> No.27890126

Come back when you've painted 180 of the little faggots and then gotten to semi finals in ard boyz with them.

>> No.27890138


> geological pun

>> No.27890294


as long as you wash teh guns with black and paint a black dot on the end of the barrel, most people won't notice you didn't drill your barrels

i don't drill my barrels on my marines and most people don't notice because they look drilled

>> No.27891061

We notice. Please drill them out. It takes two minutes max.

>> No.27891068

Still have to create a gun arm, this one is just a placeholder. This is my Ork Riptide / Megadread, with DCCW arm, 2 big shootas, 2 Skorchas, all magnetized.

>> No.27891092


>> No.27891113

Still need to drill barrels, base them, and touch up some of the silver bits.

It's my Iron Hands kill team for my Heralds of Ruin kill team league

>> No.27891126



>> No.27891303

Posting this again to see if I can get a little more feedback.

>> No.27893843

Anyone have some ideas for how I could improve my next platoon of these guys?

I was thinking of perhaps some highlighting or dry brushing but I'm not really sure it would stand out at 15mm

>> No.27895088

Freebooter you say? I'll try shooting them an email about it then, thanks.

>> No.27895124

First up, thin your paints. They are far too thick all over really. Use many thin layers especially on red and white (The face and the armor).

You need to build up your metals through far more layers going from a non-metallic basecoat to a bronze that is highlighted, scarcely, with burnished gold. Your precision on the eyes looks good from what I can see.

The cloak needs to be basecoated in a brown and then drybrushed. Make sure your brush is completely dry before getting any paint on it for when you are drybrushing. Do >not< water that paint down, I would just get it straight from the pot and rub your brush on a paper towel until very little paint remains on it. Then drybrush. Do this in multiple layers, doing less of a drybrush (spending less time) each new layer as you get brighter.

If you want a cool looking sword you'll need to back over the blue and glaze like a madman. Don't buy into the Lahariam Medium thing that GW has going, just use a CLEAN CUP of CLEAN WATER and water your paint of choice (preferably a slightly darker colour than your brightest colour on the sword) and then glaze it over the blues you have on there. Repeat this several times until you notice a change in the smoothness of the gradient. You can actually do this up from your primer but it will take 30+ layers for the desired effect. Don't do the lightning unless you are confident in painting freehand and highlighting it freehand.

Also have 2 cups for washing your brush out; one for when washing metellics off and one for washing non-mets off. This water is also your 'watering down' water for the respective archetypes as well, so keep the cups clean as well as the water.

>> No.27895148

Well, then paints is always a good bit of advice, I find getting them to the consistency of full cream milk works well. Take your time and let your coats dry before moving to the next one. Yellow can be pretty tricky to paint, just take it easy and build it up from a light brown or and ochre base colour, Gw paints may get shit on here because of prices but they do make some nice yellows now, there's a host of other brands that are pretty damn good too. I'll say it again, take your time, thin your paints 3 thin coats is better than one thick gluggy coat.

>> No.27895169

Hey, looks like you took care of the mold line on the SB arm.
Good for you.

>> No.27895179

It will! the effort shows even on super tiny stuff.

I would add highlight to helmets in particular, if any ww2 markings can be found on helmets, add some of those but I guess that's more a 'nam thing.

>> No.27895284

when you say printed, do you mean 3D printed or just papercraft?

>> No.27895346


this was in response to


>> No.27895396

how's my grey knights?

>> No.27895467

Pretty good but you're playing GK and thus almost as faggoty as Tau.

>> No.27895497

Is it just me or are Reverend Custodiers sex on legs?

>> No.27895505


All angles

>> No.27895542

Happy to have finished to paint all my 1000 points dark eldars
These incufuckers destroyed literally everything on a tournamrnet and made me get to the first position

>> No.27895674

was going to be a crater

>> No.27896658


Seconding highlights. Don't drybrush. But don't be afraid to go brighter than you would for 28mm, the smaller the model the greater the contrast needed to pick out the smaller details.

Not a great pic of mine but it's how light I've gone with 15mm stuff in the base/highlight disparity. You can even go up to white on some colours (khaki browns mainly) in pin-prick amounts.

>> No.27897089

Just finished up this Avatar of Khaine made from the statue on the new Dark Elf Cauldron of Blood. Some people think he seems static, but I love the "Come at me, bro" pose.

>> No.27897107

And the back side. I was surprised at how well the model fits on a 40mm base despite being as tall as a Wraithlord.

>> No.27897162

$25 clockwork Heldrake painted in about an hour made from a Reaper Bones Wyrmgear model. I don't play Chaos Marines, but another player has been using two empty monsterous creature bases as his Heldrakes and I like to actually be able to see what I'm shooting out of the sky with a giant fiery god rocking a lascannon.

>> No.27897183

Finecast Razorwing flock was $16 and had lots of feathers missing and required much in the way of cleaning up mold lines. The two Khymerea were alright for $19 as the only bubbles were on the underside that can’t be seen once they are based. Then comes the Reaper Bones minis with several bat swarms and again as many hell hounds at $15 for the lot. With Games Workshop no longer organizing tournaments or competitive play, there’s really no reason to pay over six times as much for an inferior product line and despite Reaper Bones being made of bargain basement rubbery plastic, they at least do a better job at not having bubbles or miscasts on the shelf than Citadel Finecast.

>> No.27897206

I think he needs more contrast, like so not everything is lava

>> No.27897234

>dat ass
but nice paintjob tough.

>> No.27897254

stop painting badly
NMM is pointless without flawless gradients and a color palette that ranges from black to white.

>> No.27897296

>stop painting badly

>> No.27897342

Pretty sure he's going for a molten look, m8. Especially since the sword uses actual metallics.

Get yer head out of your ass.

>> No.27897353

Test model for a commision army that I might paint for a club mate.

>> No.27897375


Been waiting to see what this looks like as a conversion; I like it much more than the regular one, even though he looks like he must get terrible neck pains from the weight of those huge horn-blades. Nice job on him.

>> No.27897380


Salamanders are bright green. You need to add a LOT more yellow to that blue

>> No.27897385

Is there a way for me to remove a model form a base that has been super glued? I'm new to the hobby and didn't realize if you glued your model to the base before you put the sand on it, it looks like the guy has sunk into the ground.

Also, how can I get rid of the >nubs on this guy, I have a finger-nail file but is that too rough?

>> No.27897392


Oooh I could use these as chaos mechanicus

>> No.27897397


I feel like the cape should be redder or more purple and the chainmail on his shoulder more... metallic

>> No.27897399

do you have any heroes? Because you gonna need some heroes I can recommend this BSB conversion if you can stand to sacrifice a archer.

You use the body of one of the spear thrower and cut up 2 of the archer banners to create one big banner pole (pinning is advised) that can be decorated with Silverhelm flags, Spearmen half banners and the big banner from the archers.

>> No.27897407



>> No.27897408

I'd color the feet something other than blue. Tau are blue, so it looks like your futuristic soldier is fighting with bare feet, which seems a little primitive for the greater good.

>> No.27897420

>so it looks like your futuristic soldier is fighting with bare feet

That's what I thought is the case.

>> No.27897427

goddammit that pic went awry.

anyway, been working on this guy today. got bored and wanted to to try something new for my archon.

>> No.27897430

He's a space marine, he weighs like 2 tons.

He has an excuse.

>> No.27897434

Can I superglue models straight on top of sand? Because I don't like the fact that they look like they're sinking into it.

>> No.27897435

That's gonna be my fallback reason if there's no easy way

>> No.27897482

Why do the tau have an adversion to shoes?

>> No.27897541

They have hooves. Shoes are made to protect feet sicne they are made from soft tissue. Hooves don't have such issue.

>> No.27897566


Better than mine.

>> No.27897580


That is probably the poorest quality photo I have ever seen in a WIP thread. Seriously, we can't even give you feedback from that. You might as well not have posted it.

>> No.27897636

How's this for a Slaaneshii Deamon Prince?
Tabletop he's going to be kitted with Deamon of Slaanesh, Black Mace, Power Armor and Wings.

I'm thinking of naming him ”Rah'pete'rah'in”. It feels suitably deamonic and fitting for a slaaneshii deamon prince

Only reason he doesn't have actual wings on him is because i bought him second hand and the previous owner had already glued on the backpack.

>> No.27897692


>> No.27897702

....but they have HOOVES. why the hell would you wear something over hooves? maybe a horseshoe/tap plate sort of thing nailed to the bottom, but thered be little point covering them totally

>> No.27897716

Trolling that is

>> No.27898814


camo with light green highlights or poison weapons

>> No.27898824


White or Grey is best for that dirty green camo look. Brown if you want them to be brown.

>> No.27898830

Rapetrain disapproves

>> No.27898913

sorry, had to take it with the zoom from the table where i was playing.
here is another pic so you can go fuck yourself steve
also, i did the incubi in 30 minutes to get all the army painted, i think i'll give some highlights to them

>> No.27898957

I saw something similar to this a week or so ago with a forgefiend as the base.

Have you considered using zombie dragon/terrorghiest wings?

>> No.27898966

needs more dicks

>> No.27898992


also make the runes on the blades bright green or something, it just looks wrong now

>> No.27899048

What's your story anon?

It looks like you slapped the minimum 3 colors on these guys so you could play in tournaments.

The guy on the right has green on his horns and you can tell it's from sloppily painting the back trophies.

>> No.27899067

i did slap the minimum 3 colors on these guys so I could play in a tournament.

>> No.27899095

Back when I made that, I'm not sure if that kit had even been released. They light look neat on him though.

>> No.27899123

I really think that guy could be given a nice dynamic pose with a few cuts on the arms and waist, provided one did not want the COME AT ME BRO look

>> No.27899220

My problem with that model is the knees are too close together. Men have narrow hips, their legs angle outwards, plus a wider stance gives you better balance.

Good paint job and conversion though.

>> No.27899227

Does anyone have experience with cheap spray paints? Walmart kind or anything similar. I have a shitton of nids to paint and my scheme is tau ochre base highlighted with bleached bone. The base needs a few coats and takes way too long for what it is. GW doesnt have the color I need, so I though about these instead... spraying all my gaunts to step 1 would take off dozens of hours of work, but I'm not sure if they work well with models

>> No.27899282

Can I cheat when painting white for tabletop quality by just using primer and then going into the 2nd colors?

I'm looking for this kind of result, the person said that's what he did

>> No.27899304


>> No.27899313

Just used Pic Related on some marines and they turned out perfectly fine. Just make sure you shake the can real good and that the humidity/temperature isn't too crazy.

>> No.27899315

Primer plus two other colours is three colours in my book.

>> No.27899396

Try Rustoleum's Camouflage line. Very flat base, good coverage, a lot of earth tones. May have a good match in Wal-Mart, runs about $3 a can. I use the black as my primer for every thing.

>> No.27899457

Looks more like South Korea.

>> No.27899493

looks too gosh darned anime/gundam
Like it came straight out of a cartoon.

>> No.27899538


>> No.27899539

that's part of the tau aesthetic, and why some people like them

>> No.27899583

Gosh darned weeaboos liking the same things that I like

This really rattles my johnnies, tell you what.

>> No.27899599

Primer is just the substance that makes paint still to the mini. The white part IS paint. As long as it's a even coat, go for it.

>> No.27899632

Oh crap did I miss an email somewhere?
My apologies man, it must have slipped my mind due to work or something.
Refresh my memory would you?

>> No.27899634

>plays a game involving little toy men in robots pretending to blow eachother up
>complains it's like a cartoon

>> No.27899635


>> No.27899690

I asked a while back how much progress you made on it and such.

also, I am waaay sorry for the lack of cash from my part,l works been bad for me until recently

>> No.27899740

I haven't touched my Magnus at all. Was I supposed to?
I may have lost a bunch of emails when I cleared my inbox at one point, and some of those may have been commissions.

>> No.27899809

ah, I see. yeah, I sent you pic related and asked you to make as good a "look-alike" that you could.

think it could be done, or am I asking for too much?

>> No.27899865

Latest build, ccw marines for Carcharodons

Here's a closeup of the sergeants

>> No.27899893


What did you use to make that thing?

>> No.27899899

Some other guys
the next step is magnetizing their backpacks for jump-foot versatility

>> No.27899925

Hey guys, new to the hobby here. Do you guys know off-hand what type of paint the Citadel brand paint is (i.e. Acryllic, Oil paint, or some other variant.) Also, if I don't want to use Citadel paint, what's a good braind to substitute?

>> No.27899927

Other guys

The shame when I realized I forgot the shoulders on the guy on the far right...

>> No.27899943

A Hellpit Abomination, Daemon Prince and a few Juggernaut parts

>> No.27899946

Wide shot of all, sorry about the blur, I was trying other ways of taking pictures and it didn't work out so good


>> No.27899966

In what scale? Marine? Huge?

>> No.27899985

I think Vallejo get's thrown around as an option. I personally use WHSmith's own brand, which costs £2 for about 20 tubes.
Just make sure you really thin that stuff if you want to use it and the quality comes out fine. You won't win any awards, but it'll still look good on the table.

>> No.27899989

Because Marine scale is obviously easier to recreate

>> No.27900008

think terminator sized

>> No.27900011


>not Star Krakens


>> No.27900016

Holy crap those are awesome

>> No.27900018


Wasn't magnus a giant?

>> No.27900048

Well that's "Marine" size then.
You can kinda gauge his height from this old pic
Thank you. I've been in a bit of a creative slump lately though, having hit a brick wall with my Lord of Skulls conversion and not really feeling up for painting my Grey Knights.

>> No.27900055


>Star Krakens

Thanks but no thanks

>> No.27900133

As a rule of thumb fillers should never fill more than 20% of the original unit. And fillers should never be static things like rocks, trees and buildings, except if they are little, like a pool from were your skinks are emerging or tombstones from were your zombies are raising.

>> No.27900172

Premade or sculpted?

>> No.27900185

Those look boss, except for emps... not sure I agree with your choice for the sword

It comes with the chaos termie lord box

>> No.27900201

Given the size of the model, a normal marine is up to his chest at best. He is quite tall.

And well, I did start work on some Black Templars assault terminators.

>> No.27900209

NMM is shit anyways.

>> No.27900221

How big are Forge World making the primarchs?

>> No.27900230

That's an old Emps. This is the current one.
And I will never find the courage to paint him.

>> No.27900264

At least prime it so we don't see the different parts.

>> No.27900273

Do you have a flickr page? da account? etc?

Do you do vehicle conversions?

>> No.27900311

I'm sure you can find someone who would do it for you free of charge, If my painting skills were up to par I would offer to do it myself in a heartbeat

>> No.27900390

This. Just priming it would make it 1000 times better.

>> No.27900435

as long as you use the picture here>>27899690
as refernce, I'm more than happy with marine sized.

>> No.27900448

DA: http://assberryfaggot.deviantart.com/
Horribly outdated blog gallery thing I never update: http://adeptusscriptarius.blogspot.fi/
I sometimes do vehicles
If I prime it I might as well paint it. I just worry I will end up ruining it
I've had terrible experiences with having others paints my models in the past.

>> No.27900474

I can't really promise it'll be done soon or anything, but sure. You can send me extra details via email so I can put them in storage.

>> No.27900487

Beastlord im creating because none of my area stores ever have the actual model (also i wanted a lady).

pic from phone

>> No.27900561

Aren't female beastmen just breeding machines? Or am i thinking of skaven? DO beastmen even have females? Aren't they just mutated humans that went innawoods?
Anyway, i don't like it, and i don't want to know why you thought it'd be a good idea to put tits and necron weaponry on a goatman.

>> No.27900581

time is of no concern to me. I've sent the mail as well.

thank you, mate.

>> No.27900595

Wait, scripty? You're back?
Fuck yes!

>> No.27900612


She's a strong half-goat half-minotaur and she don't need no man to tell her what to do MMM M

Pic related, a beastwoman

>> No.27900625

Just do what every MMO does and slap tits on it.

>> No.27900631

Skavin; no they changed that; because muh representation; warscythe is clearly a gift from morrsleb and my bits box

no prob if you dont like it, Im hoping the color scheme will pull it together. It will be my first attempt at NMM gold and bronze

>> No.27900678

I've been "back" for a while. My pace just isn't what it used to be.
Received. I'll look into it when I can.

>> No.27900704

Knife under boot and pop it out? That's what i do and it has a ~80% success rate. The 20% is when either a the whole leg comes of when i get one foot free, or when some of the base comes with.

>> No.27900727

again, thank you.

>> No.27901082


Well, bases themselves are cheap so if you want it to be as riskless as possible, invest in a modelling saw.

Just saw the base to bits, cut off the rest with a knife. Then just make a base and glue the whole thing on. Other methods will likely damage the model or at the very least the paint.

>> No.27901889


First, thin your paints. Looking pretty thick there.

Second, slow way down. You clearly rushed these models to the tabletop instead of taking your time and making them look good as opposed to just passable. The orange guy in the middle is all kinds of fucked up. Need to go back over him and clean, clean, clean. Lots of colour bleed, poor definition, bad contrasts.

The purple guys on the left and right might look good if you took the time to paint them properly. The scheme is not inherently bad. Also, what exactly did you do to the leftmost model's sword? Christ that looks terrible. There's no breakage in colour. It's just a big somewhat-blue blob.

3/10 anon, apply yourself.

This is Steve.

>> No.27902144

About to paint up my friends kharn and ive found the perfect base decor!
From the old fantasy khorne champ

>> No.27903019

So I finished my White Scar, and have moved on to making some objectives tonight. Got three painted up, one undercoated (will start to paint that tonight) and the other two are drying sand. Going for an ash wasteland feel, as my Scars will be based this way. Used some of GW's basing kits, along with spare bits and bobs I have left lying around.


>> No.27903048


>> No.27903073


>> No.27903100


>> No.27903138

Perennial favourite, Number Five!

>> No.27903162

thumbnails on cellphone. Looks like there's an icing pipette...

what is this, a picture of cookies?

>> No.27903186

And last, but by no means least, 6.

If you're wondering why I did the photos seperate, I tried doing them together, but when I put it onto my computer it wouldn't open, upload etc. Although that may just be my laptop.

>> No.27903381

Working on a small haemonculi detachment to add to my growing Dark Eldar force

>> No.27903400

Cookies are as good an objective as any, I suppose.

>> No.27903416

And the ancient's skin jacket. I'm quite proud of the effect I've achieved.

>> No.27903530


Might want to touch up the stitches with a white of some sort, they look a bit indistinct at the moment.

>> No.27903548

what "made in 30 minutes for a tournament" means for you
also, i can accept everything, but don't touch the archon. i didn't make that, but i can assure you it's a top painted model. for fuck's sake, did you actually apply or just copypasted "thin your paints"?
that's the only line i keep reading in every painting thread, it's not even a good advice

>> No.27903568

Or metal staples, more painful is more DE

>> No.27903706

Looks sweet, would enjoy having it's minions kill my guys. thought about making some patches a different colour? I hear tau blue is the 'in' colour this year.

What does /tg/ think about these generators i use for scenery and objectives? made them from old party poppers and string, using my webcam so quality is shite, sorry about that.

Thinking about making another, but more ork-y

>> No.27903758

>it's not even a good advice

Can't tell if troll...

And he says "made in 30mins" because even on a low quality pictures it's easy to pick out mistakes, looks like you only painted any given part once and decided to never go back over that part if you missed a spot.

>> No.27903929

It's a picture of an objective. It's a spore mine floating along. Some skulls and an overlord torso on that one too. Here's it with some paint on now.

>> No.27903990

>don't touch the archon. i didn't make that, but i can assure you it's a top painted model
>top painted model
You have a loooong way into this hobby, pal.

>> No.27904039

It looks like a cookie. Even MORE SO now that you've painted it chocolate.

>> No.27904290


God Dammit...... Now it really does look like a cookie.

>> No.27904329

Hey, look on the bright side. Cookies are a great objective.

>> No.27904371


Select "compliment", then try to find a match for your main colour in the wheel.

>> No.27905014


I like that, cheap and effective.

>> No.27905069 [DELETED] 

Thinking about ripping off the Ogre standard cow skull and replacing it with a mallet - using this guy as an OK Butcher/Slaughter Master.

>> No.27905093

Thinking about ripping off the Ogre standard cow skull and replacing it with a mallet - using this guy as an OK Butcher/Slaughter Master.

>> No.27905141


Come now guys, I think the green mascara and dark black over whatever was under there looks fine. I'm not sure why the sword is on fire or why the back of the sword is glowing though.

>> No.27905469

Mind if I guess the parts?

>Head from Space Wolf pack
>Circlet from Space Marine command squad
>The double-headed eagle on his back looks like a plastic standard top but the light grey makes think it could be a finecast chaplain crozius
>The shoulder pads have to be from Marneus Calgar
>Chest is Blood Angels sanguinary guard (no idea where the Aquila on it comes from)
>Right arm from metal Grey Knight or Draigo
>Claw from metal Chaos terminator lord
>Body is Games Day Archaon on foot
>Base is Archaon on horse
>The sword looks like it came from the Grey Knights and another standard top
>I can't tell if the cape is from Calgar or not but it looks finecast
>And lastly it looks like there is a metal Aquila on his claw and hips and I don't know where those came from.

Outstanding conversion

>> No.27905515

Started this one last night. It's either going to be Seraphim Superior or just all of my Seraphim's backpacks. Haven't decided yet.

>> No.27905832


>> No.27905945

Anyone know of any good alternative guard models? Especially ones themed around a drop trooper motif? I don't know if I really like the Elysian models...

>> No.27906033

Completely different type of WIP, but rules for scratch builds and things I want to scratch build. Also, mostly untested and vehicle heavy.

>> No.27907070

Why aren't you just using VDR?

>> No.27907189

Sculpted that whole thing? If so, that's incredible.
Are you the guy that was sculpting Aztec marines stuff?

>> No.27907387

The only sculpted thing i see in there is the purity seals/ribbons and they're fucking horrible.

As a whole, the pack is a nice conversion though.

>> No.27908505

Yes, made from a 3d printer (form1)
I'm also working on Tau and Sisters this week.

>> No.27908574


Are you telling me Form1 is good enough for dem warhammz?

>> No.27909797


Now if only you have a camera with the same resolution of that printer.

>> No.27909870


If you look at high quality images of Form1 printed stuff, they are fairly smooth but still have visible stepping and ridges that need to be sanded. His shitty photography and paint is hiding the obvious signs of 3d printing.

Still way better than any other 3d printer I've seen, especially the garbage I've seen posted on /tg/ like the stovetop dreadnought or the squishednaught, both complete with stepping so bad they look like a Mayan pyramid.

>> No.27909908

Techmarine on bike! Just gotta add some 'pimp' to his plate and he will be done

>> No.27909919


Wacky wavy inflatable arm biker.

>> No.27909943

mah nigga

>> No.27909944


Cracka, you ain't no pimp till you put one of THESE bad boys, on one of THESE bad boys.

>> No.27909963


Nah dude it's a librarian contemptor.

>> No.27910918

Hey guys, it's that douche with the Gurren Lagann models again. want to model Gurren in the middle of a big roar, so I've split the face to open his mouth. Trouble is I'm not really sure how best to bridge the gap that's going to be left in the sides here. Ideas?

>> No.27911055

this is my first kit i've done, its a tau pathfinder team, minus the 2 smaller drones. i wanted to do a kind of arctic, ice world looking paint job. what do you guys think?

>> No.27911860

>post in thread
>thread dies
every time

>> No.27911918

It's pretty good but thin your fucking paints.

>> No.27911969

what kind of a ratio would you suggest for that? i was using about a 2:1 paint/water combination

>> No.27912651


Stop giving that advice when it isn't needed.

Learn to paint yourself before you open your mouth.


I think they look good but tbh the blue could use another layer as it looks kind of patchy due to the white basecoat shining through.

>> No.27913058

This my fifth model I've painted in my life. Just trying out what kind of color scheme I want to do for my HE army and I think i'll go for something like this. Still need to do some details and try to do some shadowing and highlightning.

>> No.27913061

damn dude

>> No.27914056


Yeah the scheme is great but something is off about that blue.

>> No.27914074


That's a really good start. But if you want to put light colours on a black basing, paint those parts white first, it will turn out much brighter.

>> No.27914166

That's not NMM(which is a shitty fad btw) that's an attempt at a molten metal scheme.

>> No.27914212


NMM looks good on non-metallic colors (lol).

Like this. Don't know if it's actually NMM but looks similar.

>> No.27914217


The flame colors are in the wrong order.

>> No.27914225

Ok, thanks for tip!

I was thinking if I should paint armor in bronze/brass color. Would that look any good?

>> No.27914272


Damn, those are badass.

>> No.27914287


Ooh, 9th company Ultramarines?

Looking pretty great there.

>> No.27915328

Those bikes...somewhat feels like TRON.

>> No.27916300

How are you giving them swords? or are you just counting them as hammers?

>> No.27917069

They just count as hammers.
Everyone in the army has swords, so I wanted to give the terminators swords as well.

>> No.27917109

That's a brilliant use of the Goblin King, even if I like the model as it is.

>> No.27917151

Close, but not quite.
The eagle is the Terminator Librarian's staff top
The shoulders are from Sicarius
Chest aquila is from a VenDread
Cape is from the Space Wolf Terminator box with all the fur removed
Claw decoration is the skull and laurels from Lysander
Otherwise, spot on.

>> No.27918339

>Would that look any good?
Yes. My elves are bronze armour with red skirts and yellow trim, and I say the colours go very well.

>> No.27918418

First time painter/collector: Just got a lot of paints today for my Crimson Fists but haven't built up the courage to try an paint any yet. They are primed already but I still don't know some things like tap water:paint ratio and I don't think I have fine enough brushes to do highlights yet.
I'm going off of a tutorial I found online. Would post link but 4chan thinks it's spam.
I have the reds, blues, metals, and washes so far. Should get the rest and the brushes soon.

Does anyone know what the ratio is for water:citadel paints?

>> No.27918594

Each paint of each brand is different. You need to add water until you get the consistency of milk. That usually is 1:1, sometimes 2:1, sometimes 1:2, sometimes more. Search how to thin your paints in google.

>> No.27919031

What about Washes? Do I thin those too?

>> No.27919091

Depends, I usually thin them a little but most people don't.

>> No.27919138

I haven't played 40k in a long time and I haven't done any hobbyist stuff either but god damn I want to paint and model a Riptide.

>> No.27919169


>> No.27919446


>> No.27919550

If you prime white, then I suggest you apply a thin black paint base on the metal parts. This way the metal will be richer and deep.

>> No.27919586

>not grey

>> No.27919645

Just curious: Did you buy the whole charriot for him?

>> No.27919681

He probably plays Delves and Eldar and assembled the medusa option. Or he just picked it up from a friend or from ebay.

>> No.27919683

You need finer sand then.

>> No.27919709

Th-thin your sands?

>> No.27919719

Easy on the highlights there dude.

>> No.27919915

Well I just wanted to know.. Ive looking for it on bitz sites with no luck yet

>> No.27919982

Reading comprension disorder..?

>> No.27920022

Lol no.
I dont know what kind of sand are you using, but the effect you describe usually comes with a too big grane sand.

>> No.27920116

VDR? Also, there is a crapload more that didn't upload (and refused to last night)

>> No.27920349

>priming white

>> No.27920531

More like, Hot opinion fagtron disorder.

>> No.27921514

dude. freaking sweet.

>> No.27921634

ig heavy mortar with horseteam

>> No.27921684

Practicing battle damage and dirty-ing a marine.

>> No.27921756

scratch building a warhound with paper, and a template i found here some time ago

>> No.27923132

My first mini since I was a kid. How'd I do? Were my paints thine enough?

>> No.27923164

That's really good!

>> No.27923213

And by thine I mean thin.

>> No.27923260

Thanks. He looked aweful at first but, then I put a ton of washes on him.

>> No.27923292

And the front.

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