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/tg/ - Traditional Games

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[ERROR] No.24742694 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Hobby thread!

Just got back into the hobby as a whole, refitted the garage as a nerd cave and I'm back on the painting and converting hype. I'll post a few and we can talk about our projects, ideas, favourite pieces and WIP's.

>> No.24742755

lighter on table, but no ash tray.

also chaos are cool, any close ups on your finished/WIP minis?

>> No.24742903

Oh, the ashtray is on the opposite workdesk! And they're black templars, I can take a few closeups in a minute?

>> No.24743067

oh.. i just assumed with them being black and gold
they were black legion CSMs

that would be cool too.

>> No.24743088

Sorry to disappoint! Fancy some proper closeups?

>> No.24743130

Bumping with Mister Lister the Sister Fister

>> No.24743160

>dem mould lines
also, metal parts? wont he fall over now cause he's one side heavier?

>> No.24743184

Yeah he's still being cleaned up at the moment, he's gonna be painted separately to his base and then mounted/pinned (doing a ramp up a rock)

>> No.24743186


Frankly, the new FW bikes have killed my motivation to do any sort of motorcycle conversion that isn't an ork chopper.

>> No.24743187

I have a few Warmachine models to finish painting (Cygnar riflemen and a command squad) and I've also been messing around with some skinks and trying to convert them into possible Tau auxiliaries.

Unfortunately my room got flooded so I had to move everything out. At least I saved the computer and my paints.

>> No.24743200

Having only just got back into the hobby after 2 years (I think?) these are totally new to me and I can safely say my dick is hard.

>> No.24743257

Last bump before I go make lunch.

>> No.24746762


>> No.24748934

Hi, I started a LOTR Uruk Hai army. Here are two of my captains (unfinished). The one on the left is the ballista commander and the one on the right is Shagrat with the mithril chain hand cut off and replaced with a Hunter Orc hand, and a shield added to his pointing arm. Was wondering if anyone had any tips as to how to paint his hair? It looks pretty dumb white/grey and I can't paint black hair for shit.

Also, do I base models before or after I prime them? What is the best material for priming? I'd like to do some sort of Rohan type brown grassland.


>> No.24749363

Just finished my Ravagore about to finish my Leviathan. I want to have all of my cryx done before my CoC come in.

>> No.24750867

>> No.24750870

Here is the leviathan i just finished about to start on a Night Wretch

>> No.24750906


>> No.24750936

nice conversion,

>> No.24751012

usually you base last, or paint the base and the model separate. you can buy primer that sprays on.

>> No.24751310


>> No.24751467

Looking very good, loving the beard.

>> No.24752082

What shall I turn 15 catachans into. Trench Raiders or Penal... in game stats are inconsequential, as they will be used in my own siege of vraks type campaign, so restated

>> No.24752584

Sir Wobblysword the Plastic

>> No.24752991

even he looks perplexed by its wobble.

>> No.24753260

Test painting shields. Im going for Brodir's Black Crew hence the black painted shields (over rawhide)

>> No.24753327

Rest of them... Big wip

>> No.24753381

nicely done anon!

i would go for trench raiders

got a box of assault marines in a lot deal, wanted to trade them off until it occured to me i never actually painted a space marine, so here it is my very first astartes

>> No.24754590

And so it begins, Trench raiders are a go.

>> No.24754888

(Decided to glue together old unbuilt drones. Hoping to have them done by Sunday)

>> No.24755189

Painting so...
So far I've gotten twelve "done(*)" and still have three to go.
Then I've got ten Stormboyz to paint
A Looted Wagon

Twenty Shoota boyz to paint
Then like...five Slugga boyz.

*not counting basing and repainting due to scheme changes

Here's the squad as the currently stand. Only have three more I have to repaint, then I get to base em' all.

>> No.24755446

And One of my Stormboy Skwadz.

Not many left to do.

>> No.24756072

>High Elf army from IoB
>Made moving trays from leftover sprues and cardboard from pizza box
>Both moving trays are too big for the Lothern Sea Guard and Swordmasters of Hoeth
Will provide pics, but its too embarrassing.

>> No.24757166

good god it's like one of those horrible post your battle station pics. Clean up man geez.

>> No.24757218

A Crusader of Denelspire! Is he from the Bones kickstarter?

>> No.24757393

might add a few more things to them.. but this is the general idea.

>> No.24757983

Its far worse once you see all of it. I have shit everywhere.

>> No.24758066

Why not clean. that amount of dust is horrible for health. and not to good for models either.

>> No.24758751

it's not dust.

It's ash. I smoke more than a 50-year-old retiree

>> No.24758895

i just started into 40k a few weeks ago, here is my very ever batch of models, still very much a WIP but so far im very pleased with the results

>> No.24759138

Perfect place to share my favorite new piece of terrain. Been sitting around for a couple months, finally broke down and painted it

>> No.24759163


>> No.24759177


>> No.24759217

Moving parts are fun

>> No.24759242

Shot of the roof heavy bolters.

All bits are from a valkyrie tail sprue

>> No.24759267

And lastly, magnetized roof for easy access

>> No.24759307


>> No.24759489

Up up up

>> No.24760824

My first devestator done.
First try at both plasma weaponry and a bit of OSL. Think I should've done considerably more on the helmet/torso but I am still really happy with it. Was basically drybrushing layers of enchanted blue, fenrisian grey and skull white in like...15 layers.

How's it look?

>> No.24760837

Another angle.

I'm almost giddy.
Still wish I could've cleaned that flash up a little better...

>> No.24760860


Lookin' great, Anon!

-Maybe- a little too stark of a contrast on the barrel with the 'burning' and the little slots in said barrel could also be glowing, as the 'blue area' is burning so brightly, but otherwise, yeah. Very good!

>> No.24760897

The conduction coils look great, you should put some glow in the muzzle slits aswell.

>> No.24760903

Upon searching around for tutorials offering nothing but glazes and paints I don't own, I stumbled upon a night lords havoc that had the same deal with the barrel flare.
Not sure if I'll try it again since it's nigh impossible to buildup layers in that tiny, tiny crevice...

>> No.24760954

re posting my stuff

>> No.24760990

Also this extra runtherd. This is the last unpainted ork I own, save the mob of 10 I built two weeks ago and can't afford primer for.

>> No.24761004

We all yelled at you to finish the bolters on thise guys, do it for slaanesh.

>> No.24761262

as in drilling the barrel ? not goin to happen

>> No.24761306

I had a lot of bits. This seemed like a neat idea.

>> No.24761323

Oh please don't zoom in I just now realized how awful this looks

>> No.24761352





>> No.24761374

It takes literally 15 seconds a bolter, you lazy homo.
At least paint a little black dot on the end.

>> No.24761392

>> No.24761399

>> No.24761401

>> No.24761412

I'll post the last few things I've been working on, Boss on a bike here, with big choppa. I need to go through touching up and finish some last details.

>> No.24761426

and warboss with big choppa, last time I posted him two things were suggested, one that he's too small due to being built out of a nob, and two that the brown fur of the cloak would look better gray, I am planning on the cloak getting changed over to a grayscale for the fur.

>> No.24761529

i....i.....um.....i dont......i dont have a drill

>> No.24761631

I really like the look of those. Almost makes me want to pick up a couple even when I don't play sm.

>> No.24761643


Try spinning the point of a pointy knife, works for me :)

>> No.24761657

I can't believe I'm the one saying this, but Use a little less brown bro. It's drowning out the model.

>> No.24761678

Chaos Lord i sold off recently. 1/2

>> No.24761684



>> No.24761705

jesus christ how horrifying

>> No.24761741

>dem cigarettes
come on man, be nice to your electronics, smoke outside.

>> No.24761867


So I know this gets said a lot, but thin your paints.


>> No.24761885

You should just invest 10 bucks in a hand drill and drill bits. They sell them at every hobby store and they're useful for barrels, pinning parts abd battle damage, along with a host of other conversions.
Seriously it's the next best investment you can make once you have your basics.

>> No.24761903

Turn on whitebalance.

>> No.24761920

tried to give this one a different look, might be a little bit oversized.

>> No.24761957


I purcchased a hand drill and I have trouble working with it. I think I'm not pressing hard enough because I can't make more than a dent in the bolters and pressure causes the bit to slip because I guess the drill is shitty or something.

I did manage to kinda drill a meltagun and it looks great until you shine a light on it since it's not that deep.

>> No.24761985

Make a little indent with your knife before you drill, and apply enough force that you can feel it bite.

Shouldn't be that difficult if you're not drilling metal.

>> No.24761996


I watch videos of people that drill barrels flawlessly. Should I be using enough pressure that I see strings of plastic shoot out of the hole I'm drilling immediately?

>> No.24762053

well i guess i should...i also dont own any hobby knifes or any tools

>> No.24762169

Still very WIP, painting on white primer is a little different for me, so slow going.

>> No.24762183


But won't the basing material be...plain, then?

>> No.24762213

I had that exact same desk a decade and a half ago. Fuck, it was a BITCH to assemble that crap as a kid.

>> No.24762366

Tack that onto the end of the kickstarter website URL.

Go to the add-ons section, they have a special offer on hobby stuff from army painter.

For $25, plus $5 for shipping if you're not making a pledge of $100 or up, you can get the Army Painter hobby tool kit, containing: a file, tweezers (for fiddly little bits you want to stick on models), sprue clippers, a pin-vice (tiny hand drill, with 5 drill bits), and a bottle of superglue.

It works out about the same as retail, but your $30 will also help with the creation of Deadzone.

>> No.24762383

Nurgle Daemon Prince I've nearly finished.

>> No.24762394

Yes, otherwise it's not drilling.

>> No.24762515

No, you can just dump on whatever you want after priming.

Well, it kinda depends on what sort of base you want. If you want a scenic lava pool with cracked rocks, yeah you will be basing before priming. If you just take a normal GW base and want to put on some sand/grass, you're better off doing it after the priming. Especially grass, because you don't want to paint grass.

>> No.24762535

Working on some Tetras , my camera seems to pick out the pink tones - they are actually khorne red / wazdaka red !

>> No.24762551

Neat idea, totally forgot pre-heresy Emperor's Children had that wing motif too. So gonna be stealing that

>> No.24762558

>buying GW painting station

>> No.24762577


>Not seeing that I was clearly in GW

>> No.24762598

Would look better if id had arms like Timberwolf from mechwarrior

>> No.24762686

not knowing that gw lets you use their paints and station to paint your minies

stay defiant, gwhaterfag

>> No.24762873

WIP terrorgheist.

>> No.24763247

What kit / model is that based on?

>> No.24763317

Only the ribcage is finished for now.

GW's zombie dragon.

>> No.24763729

>being in a GW

>> No.24764981

just finished painting and assembling 2 tervigons, just need to get em on bases now.

>> No.24765196


>> No.24765234

what did you use the get the glossy effect on the flesh?

>> No.24765508

i dunno what he used by i use 'ard coat varnish for gloss effect

>> No.24765517

Love the colour scheme

>> No.24765776

the picture makes it look orange, but it's actually red. the base color is blood red. it is suppose to look like hive fleet behemoth.

>> No.24765800

Son, you gotta blend those edges

>> No.24765900

too uch work :P

>> No.24765917

Finished my Calaban earlier in the week. Will get an army shot when I am home.

>> No.24765934

nice job on the scales :)

>> No.24766105

Working on a simple converted Aspiring champion , whom I'm using as my Chaos Lord with Jump Pack and an Axe of Blind fury

>> No.24766121

and a bonus tidbit: A pretty cool conversion I saw in my FLGS.

>> No.24766173

man, get a big bottle of Winsor and Newton - it's good stuff, and much cheaper.

>> No.24766217

Don't suppose one of you fine gentlefolk have any tips on painting feathered wings? I'm doing up an autarch (my colors are Green/White witha hint of black if you care) and every time I do his wings they look like shit.

>> No.24766242

Oh, and hes shitcast which really doesn't help

>> No.24766295

I need to know if mixing rubbing alcohol and PVA is a good mix to quickly base my minis ...

>> No.24766432

you don't need isopropyl to thin PVA, just use water

>> No.24766552

I hate it when people hold up their minis to take a photo and when they cannot into rotating their images

>> No.24766673

GW's gloss varnish. For no special reason. Slowly switching to Vallejo btw.

>> No.24766694

Vallejo's gloss is just as overpriced as GW's. For things like varnishes, you really are best off going with the art-supply stuff. It's about £5 a bottle instead of £2.50, but you get 75ml instead of 17ml, even with a good brand like Winsor and Newton.

>> No.24766812

spare emperors champion im painting to practice NMM gold and some free-hand.

>> No.24766844

Are you the same kind of people who uses car spray paint for undercoating your models?

>> No.24766880

If it's the right sort, sure. It's goddamn grey primer, it just needs to cover properly and not hide detail. If you don't buy the gapfilling sort and you do your research and get something good, you can get better results than with some of the crap sold for the model market.

>> No.24767002

Anyone know where I can get a plastic racing helmet that's approximately the size of an attack squig?
I have an idea for a conversion.

>> No.24767024

Except the composition and pigment size is not the same. Also usually not acrylic.

>> No.24767451

Except if you do your goddamn research and buy the fine-pigment acrylic stuff. It's primer. It's probably made in the same goddamn factory. Enjoy paying twice as much if you like, but I can't tell the difference once I've painted the mini. Unless of course you're using primer as a lazy basecoat of colour like the Army Painter stuff is for - you don't use car stuff for that.

>> No.24768272

looking good! are you going to do some with knives and trenchclubs also?

i only wanted to do one and be over with, but i like assault marines and as it turned out a space marine isn't that boring to paint as i tought it would be, so i build another one, with custom lightening claws

>> No.24768557

Sweet kris claws, how did you get them/make them?

>> No.24768683

are the legs poseable? or always looks like that... I have really been wondering if I could just take some gunpla and turn them into better looking tau suits to proxy the new sizes... with a mix of forgeworld models of course...

>> No.24768927

Three of them have knifes, my trench clubs were pissing me off so I abandoned them.. tho I could dangle them from some belts.

>> No.24769072

thanx anon!

they are made from some mantic space orc claws i found in my bitz box, the krisses are actually a lucky emerency solution for me not checking if i had enough night runner claws to replace the original fingers, so i cut down some skaven swords to finsh them,

>> No.24769232

Oh man, that is horrible. Gonna go on a limb here and say you're the dirty smelly guy at the club if you're this careless at home.

>> No.24769444

or just put some of the big sheeted catachan knives/swords on their backs that would do the trick without to much work, i also like the headgear you've done on them and the guy with the armor and shield

everything is better with a big chevronned chainsword so last week i made this guy for my bloodbowl team

>> No.24769483


>> No.24769568

>6mm masking tape
>1-2mm stripes

yea that's really gonna work

>> No.24769904

during a match of bloodbowl you will be so busy hunting my rats you would'nt even notice they are a bit off

i love skaven in bloodbowl, they are a bit fragile but their speed makes for a nice playing team

>> No.24769942

My work of this week. Got my miniatures on monday. Time to get into Warmachine.

I'm excited for my first game with my own miniatures. Second game overall.

>> No.24769959

I like the idea of trench clubs tho, i've got some barbed wire to wrap around them :D

First guy is nearing completion... He's missing something, i'll see what he looks like after basing.

>> No.24769969

They look real nice.

>> No.24769990

I don't go to clubs, but I do bathe.

>> No.24770703

Ogre Ironblaster

>> No.24770716

Ogre Firebelly

>> No.24770735


>> No.24770743


>> No.24770758

My Thundertusk, called a Gravetusker

>> No.24771830

Complete with Dealwithit.avi glasses.

>> No.24772258

almost done with my counts as portal glyph

>> No.24772868

Okay so ive got a couple of tau models that ive only primed an basecoated so far but i hate the color scheme, would i have to strip the paint to restart or could i just reapply another layer of primer?

>> No.24773779

Painting over white hurts my brain.

>> No.24773994

dude, i... i don't know how to say this, and i'll probably be executed for this, but... you... you may have thinned your paints TOO MUCH. (srsly though, probably just needs a second coat)

>> No.24774096

This is just a WIP, so its all good... it'll look vaguely like >>24771830
once done.

>> No.24774317

Tanks. Because Tanks.

Did these two yesterday, and I think they turned out better than my last ones, mainly because I got more ambitious with the detailing, so it will be easy to go back and do the others after I am finished

>> No.24774333


>> No.24774373


>> No.24774574

Neat looking Rhinox, kudos on the teeth.

>> No.24775109


>> No.24775191

strip, priming again would be a terrible idea and wouldnt work

>> No.24775233

don't primer over what you have painted, if the base isn't too thick paint over that, best thing to do is strip them, but if your base is thin don't worry about it,

>> No.24775245


>> No.24775310

strip the paint, redoing the priming will remove details and may leave some of the base coats in hard to access areas, I'd rather paint with thick paints than prime an already painted model.

>> No.24775790

What do yall duders think of my fatass plague marines?

>> No.24775903

looks like a fatass plague marine :D looks good!

80% done.

>> No.24776327

Outside of puss-ing out some more shoulder pads and vents, I like it.
Neat banner.

>> No.24776368

I feel guilty about my Plague Marines being just normal CSM painted to be oozy The Cleaved marines.

But all the examples of them are never the bloated marines; but they appear to never feel their wounds in a fight so I can only assume they are some sort of nurgle marine.

>> No.24776441

The cleaved are very neat in their own right.

>> No.24776541


I am painting mine like the cleaved as well. No one else in my LGS has plague marines like that but they seem to be pretty popular on /tg/

>> No.24776643

Making some Ironguts right now, 1 of 12 is done.
Grave Guts!!!

>> No.24776650

I'm quite well aware that the face needs work, but otherwise, how did I do for my first mini, /tg/?

>> No.24776921

You've got to be kidding.

>> No.24777027

Aaaaaand I should've lurked moar. Let it be known that I have NO EXPERIENCE whatsoever in painting anything ... Also, I don't have a good shiny paint to work for the imperial symbols.

>> No.24777217


really not that bad for a first mini, mine was far worse
with a little bit of highlighting and a wash it will look totally passable

>> No.24777386

wip of a Khorne Gotebeast Chariot.

Playing in a local escalation league, have 12 Chaos Warriors and a Hero paint up(500pts worth).

>> No.24777413

It's more the fact I am going to be plonking a few head/arm/leg/torst/gun swapped standard CSM's down on the table painted all The Cleaved-y and saying "They are Plague Marines."

I mean it fits the fluff but I am worried people will sook at me about they they aren't Plague Marines because they don't LOOK like Plague Marines.

>> No.24777546


nah fuck em, they look plaguey on the inside of that armour trust me

>> No.24777697

Its fine for blocking int he colours, get a black wash, highlight the highest points on the model.
Pic related.
sorry to all who have seen the image a millions times

>> No.24777713

sorry I mean, wash it with the black, then rehighlight using the original colours.

>> No.24777894

>Inside they are tar people

>> No.24778174


well, this is finished, didn't expect this thread to still live, but it's already in the car for a massive 8 player game tomorrow. I'll post finalized pics tomorrow.

>> No.24778363

looking bad ass, like the amour and skin for sure

>> No.24778466

Painboy I was working on yesterday, first time actually messing around with green stuff, still missing some tubing from the syringe to the backpack and a needle

>> No.24778514

Another little projekt, a dakkajet from a WW2 corsair kit

Since this pic was taken I've added a few armour plates and the propeller (from a deffkopta)

>> No.24778534

close up of the pilot and his stikkbomb rack

>> No.24778593

Thanks. I was worried the banner looked retarded. I'm not the most experienced sculptor. ..

>> No.24778728

Really like the purple highlights looks really sharp.

>> No.24778746

Gotta love orks 'n' stikkbombs.

>> No.24778838

They're so great, they fit even when they logically wouldn't

>> No.24778864

you know what, that face is perfect, just looks terrified and makes me lol

>> No.24778941

the cleaved sound like a neat warband.

anyone got any more information? id like to play one in black crusade

>> No.24779022

There's info for them in the Chaos Space Marine codex. I know that much.

>> No.24780998

Here's a guy I did.... I stripped him yesterday.

>> No.24781583

Shutup or i'll punch with a grenade hand!

>> No.24782029

You should have done it like you did the boots.

>> No.24782063

finished my Kroot-mold and created the first models
shit works better then the last mold i made

>> No.24782150


>> No.24782166


>> No.24782257

/tg/, what do u think about this shield?

>> No.24782296

How about those sternguard?

>> No.24782308

The paint job itself looks fine but i don't think it really fits with the rest of the model.

>> No.24782328

I agree, for a Salamander, it should be fire or dragons

>> No.24782343

Nice convertion, but i always got a confused, whem see a leather boots in marine armour.

>> No.24782348

Salamanders should never be on bikes imo.
They get motionsickness from that shit

>> No.24782373


>> No.24782375


>> No.24782431

that is just /tg/ sperglording.
The only reason they RARELY use bikes is that the gravity on nocturne makes learning how to bike hard.

>> No.24782466

add third camo color, yay or nay?

>> No.24782593

Looks like one of the fish dudes from CoC: Dark Corners of the world.

>> No.24782657

No on the third camo, but blackline it and itll look sweet.

>> No.24782708

Personally I think that looks sweet. Maybe chuck in some blue?

>> No.24782722

update from yesterday

>> No.24782895

Not the one who posted the model, but what do you mean with blackline, and/or how is it done?

>> No.24782938

Looking pretty fucking spiffing if i do say so myself.

>> No.24782967

Really good gold, but maybe you should put more white hotspots? And don't you think there are too much dark shadows on the hand with the sword?

>> No.24782982

Looks plenty great, but needs a bit more highlighting

>> No.24783077

>> No.24783232

Will add more white hotspots, how do you mean by the dark shadows? in between the fingers?

On the black armour or everywhere?

>> No.24783248

Between wing's plumage.

>> No.24783260

Your black armor need highlighting too

>> No.24783403

ah yeah, will go back over that.

ive highlighted it a bit, its a bit dark in the photo but will make it a bit more pronounced once done, just so i dont make it brighter than the gold.

>> No.24784007

Some Cultists I finished, except the bases.

>> No.24785606

Blacklining is when you put a thin black line in the most recessed areas on a mini, like between armour segments or where cloth/armour joins. Its used to make a dramatic, comic-book like effect (comics use thick lines whereas in realistic sketching you skip heavy lines as much as possible). On such small working areas as 28mm minis, blacklines are a good way to make the miniatures stand out at arms distance-ie in game viewpoint

>> No.24785753

dang boy, that is one sweet model. which kits did you build it from?

>> No.24787521

Sorry it's kind of out of focus. BAR gunner from Flames of War.

>> No.24787600

Anyone know where to get some good count as models to use as Neophytes in a BT army? Looking for something like medieval men at arms or something like that.

>> No.24787692

How much do warmachine players care about your conversions? like if i made an army with like a rusted and diseased look and covered them in Nurgle iconography do you think people would mind?

>> No.24787959

Warmachine players don't mind at ALL. In fact it's most often encouraged.

so long as your model can be discerned as "oh, it's this warjack/ warbeast" without constant questioning and head scratching, you're good.

>>24781806 for example is a khador gun carriage that's been converted into a frigging tank. A frigging TANK! It used to be a horse pulled cart!

>> No.24788091

Nice to know, I keep hearing stories about how warmachine players will go apeshit if you so much as paint your army a different colour, nice to see something to the contrary.

>> No.24788166

No, no, the only ones who would go apeshit are autists with severe issues.

That'd be the same as someone getting angry at you for painting your Warhammer, flames of war or infinity force a different colour than the default one. It's retarded, and doesn't really happen.

Most people paint their armies a different colour. Black on menoth and white on khador are quite common alternative colour schemes.

>> No.24788322

Well it's definitely nice for an aspiring Warmachine player to hear that all those bad rumors and horror stories were just that.

>> No.24788383

There's just one caveat: Must be the right chassis, must be the right weapons. Apart from that, go nuts.

>> No.24788421

Fallen test model

>> No.24788444


>> No.24788455

which wash did you use on the gold?

>> No.24788457

I like it!

>> No.24788472

Terrain, terrain and more terrain is all I am working on at the moment.

>> No.24788475

these are good.. but mold lines
very nice

>> No.24788511

Not shown: tons of in progress bits of crates, trees, bits of hardboard waiting for things to be glued to them, laser-cut buildings needing to be worked on...

>> No.24788575


There's little. All the 3.5 dex says is that "nobody knows what's inside their armoured shell" or something like that. So... yeah.

>> No.24788606



>> No.24788686

I hope, now it's enough magmatic?

>> No.24788689

The gold itself it 50:5-ish Rhinox Hide and the old Shining Gold then a light highlight of Shining Gold. The vertigras is watered down Sotek Green, to apply it i had a small amount of non-watered down SG on the tip of my brush, this gave it a thicker effect in some areas and thinner in others.

>> No.24788705


>> No.24788743

Much better, though you might want to add a few white spots to the hammer to make it really pop.

>> No.24788778

scouts, man.

>> No.24788845

I don't really like the scout models. Plus buying 16 is pretty expensive just for meat shields.

>> No.24788871

then you're on you're own.

>> No.24789152

you could use some imperial guard with different heads to stand in as scouts/neophytes, i am sure you can find medieval heads in an online store's bit section

>> No.24789278

or you could use the the actual Breton men-at-arms.

>> No.24789305


Aren't the imperial guard models the giant handed gorilla people though?

>> No.24789388

That's what I was looking at actually

>> No.24789443

just finished these

>> No.24789473


>> No.24789516


>> No.24789531


>> No.24790245

they came out nice!

i finished my lightening claw marine

>> No.24790342

neat, only
>Thin yer paints

>> No.24790356

these look nice, tha skin is creepy.
White is a bitch to paint, you have to layer it very very thinly. Purple looks real good tho.

>> No.24790412

Still hoping to get back into the hobby, just need the time.
Work and videogames take up most of it..

My last project were Eldar Corsairs for a tale of gamers which kinda died.

>> No.24790470

That one right in the middle looks just like Rihanna

>> No.24790651

As long as there are THIN YOUR PAINT threads, nothing is too embarassing.
We will still love you, anon.

>> No.24790909

>we still love you
only If he lets me blow him :3

>> No.24791119

how about no

i know anon, it's actually highlighted from noesis whiet (by rackham color) to skull white, maybe i need to give it a light bleached bone wash to blend it more together

when i want to i can do white, but this one took some more time to paint then some space marines

>> No.24791271

Yeah that looks good, you must have been to excited lol

>> No.24791859

thanx! someone must have laced my drink with acid when i dreamt up this colour scheme, but it suits the unusualness of the model i think,

my usuall models to paint are mostly guard, mechanicum and khorne/undived chaos, so sometimes i need something to do al lot of crazy colours on

>> No.24792221

Cool Gnoblars, most people I know don't paint theirs, let alone use them.
Are those Vampire Counts arms on them, like Ghoul arms specifically?

>> No.24792322

Personally, I would go for a third camo colour to break up the pattern.

>> No.24792368

Aaah painting on black... so much easier.

>> No.24793268

Don't matter if you're black or white.You need to do more coats of thinner paint. It looks well thin there. I always do atleast two coats of any colour. Really the only difference between black or white is the end tone, the paint shouldn't look thinner on one or the other as you should be working to make it consistently smooth/thick enough so that you can't see the colour from underneath at all (unless you're going for high lights)

>> No.24793303

Damn they're cool. how did you get the rifles, are they just splinter rifles? You should really finish this army, cool idea & execution. Never seen a Corsair list in like 12 years of 40king, so theres that to.

>> No.24793318

From what i've found, white is more work, look at the greens, maybe i'm just better at painting on black,

>> No.24793395

If you use 2-3 coats of well mixed paint/water ration (like 2:1), eventually you'll reach the point of the colour not showing what's underneath. You're right its a bit more work but you should be doing this much work anyways if you want a nice looking mini. Not trying to hate on your painting or nothing mate, you're neat enough you just need another coats and they'll look sweet as.

>> No.24793476

Besides the green rust on verdigris, what can I use Sotek Green for? I'm painting up some Kasrkin stormies with a black uniform but I'm kinda stuck on the armor. I got Thunderhawk Blue, Shadow Grey, and Sotek Green. Any advice on what I can do with these?

Fluff is the Stormies are part of an Elysian detachment that goes into both urban and jungle combat zones.

Pic somewhat related. Though I'm now tempted to make the jumpsuits gray/green and the armor black.

>> No.24793510

Those are just the first coat.. not the finished mini.

>> No.24794471

three almost down 7 left.

>> No.24795339

So you and me (>>24793476) are the ones still painting here?

>> No.24795485

Yeah looks that way.. but I'm always lurking :(

>> No.24795827

Oh well. I'd post a picture, but I have no camera. So far I decided on matte black armor and a 1/1 mix of Sotek Green and Thunderhawk Blue for the clothing. Looks good, but I'm not liking how highlighting the edges of the armor has turned out. Think I'll stick with leaving highlighting only for the uniform. Makes the armor look darker, I feel.

>> No.24796030

Highlighting black is always a bitch.

>> No.24796134

Well, I did it. Used the thinnest of highlights with Shadow Grey and called it a night.

>> No.24796622

Second plasma cannon done, went a fair bit heavier on the lighting this time. Hopefully I'll get it right on the third. Working on a lascannon devestator now.

>> No.24796645

shes gonna blooooooooooooooow

>> No.24796652


>> No.24796662


I think you should tone down the OSL.

>> No.24796751

I plan to on the next guy.
Perfectly happy with the glow on the cannon itself, just doing the armor glow that's considerably harder. Not sure if I should be applying the mid tones instead of the brightest.

It'll help if I ever add other plasma weapons anywhere to practise with, but I can't see it happening playing Salamanders.

>Waiting for ink/glazes to dry.

>> No.24796788


Apply the outer tones because they are the same distance away as the far edges of the glow.

>> No.24796793

>any plasma at all

Nigga, you're doing it all wrong.

>> No.24796943

You think a starving artist can afford 4 metal multimelta devestators at 20$ a pop?
That and I just wanted some means of fighting other marines, as I realized that I'll never see anything but CSMs and various imperial ones at my local hubs.

>> No.24798600

4 aaah aaah aahh, Getting sick of painting guard now :/ I know they are going to look real good when they are all finished and together but fuck sake its boring.

>> No.24798625

>I know they are going to look real good when they are all finished and together
>yfw they don't
>all that wasted time and effort

This is why I will never risk starting an IG army.

>> No.24798675

I'm not worried, I have backup squads who do.

>> No.24798694

>Buy Dark Vengeance set
>Has Dark Angel Space Marines
>Shave off Dark Angel icons from their pauldrons and remove any trace of said Dark Angels with a razor blade
>receive free vanilla marine force
Life is good, only primed the tactical squad.
Thinned my paints by the way

>> No.24798806


You didn't even need to take that effort. Some guy painted the DA icons gold, the helmets and shoulder trim white and the rest blue and they looked exactly like Ultramarines Sternguard.

Iconography barely matters. It's all color schemes.

>> No.24798871

But they would still be identified as DA.
I wanted to make a custom chapter out of them anyway. Besides, took little effort and nicked thumbs to make it work.

>> No.24799020


I don't even like that vocaloid chick but that image makes me want to put my dick in her mouth

>> No.24799568

Just in case you are still here.
I built it from a chaos daemonprince

>> No.24800175

Babby's first guardsman squad. I forgot to thin the wash on the back three and obviously the guy on the left there still needs to be finished up. I think I'll have a smoke and get on it. Can't really take a better picture and tried to resize it so it's not in whatever retarded resolution my phone did, but if it's still to big, let me know I guess.

I swear I have a damn hobby drill somewhere around here...

>> No.24800223

Done the single lascannon guy. Fucked up the litany on the banner dealie pretty bad but he still came out okay as a whole.
Might go back and redo the steel on the cannon or add some scorching to the barrel later.

Should just assembly line them to cut down on the drudgery of painting entire minis one at a time, like do the unit's skin, then clothes, etcetc
At least with horde armies this seems to make it go quicker.

>> No.24800247

>Cutting off the noses of the lasgun barrels
That....that works suprisingly well.

And one more.

>> No.24800278


Yeah, we totally needed to see 2 pics of this pile of dookie

>> No.24800304

Least he thinned his paints a bit.

>> No.24800388

Said those lasguns cut short look good... stealing that idea. Also nice work they look good.

>> No.24800428

I started doing batch painting.. but as I went along I kept seeing stupid gaps in shoulders and stuff so had to greenstuff.. fucking hate catachans.

Nice work on btw dunno what>>24800278 problem is.

>> No.24800444


I like it. It's a Salamander, and it's far better than most people's paintjobs on /tg/.

>> No.24800510

Funny story, I actually started doing it just so I could fit them in my case without having to cut out additional foam squares. Then it turns out I actually liked the look a lot better than the huge ass muzzles. I miss the bayonets, though.

Anyway, here's their Chimera.

>> No.24800813

Transporting akwardly shaped minis is always awful. I had to buy specific foam for my burnas.

The photo is quite garbage regardless. Though I will always refute paint thinning shouts as I spray my black guys green, wash and edge, rather than slopping 5 layers of snot green on.
Hopefully tomorrow it will be nice and I can get proper photos. Just have a single plasma cannon and their crappily posed sergeant to go.
Then I have NOTHING TO PAINT, which is fucking depressing. I can't afford the primer I need to do my other tac squad and ork mob...

>> No.24800891

My tau, got sick of seeing all yellow or blue tau so decided to create a darker 'night fighter' tau army. Guy on the right was my original scheme, realised it was way too dark so the guy on the left is my WIP revised scheme, thoughts?

>> No.24801219

Kind of along the same lines, I was think of painting pic related as my first army. But I'm just getting into 40k, so I have no idea if this would screw me over.

>> No.24801634

Grey and black is a pretty effective, if basic scheme. The trick is to pick a shade light enough that it's easily differentiable. (I think Army Painter Uniform Grey or whatever GW equivalent would work nicely.) But it shouldn't be too hard.

>spray black
>paint fatigues grey
>watered down Nuln Oil
>go over the higher areas of the fatigues with the same grey again
>maybe highlight the fatigues white, the armour a darker grey

You might want to use a silver or bronze on the symbols just to give the models a little more colour, though. Lots of people have tried to recreate the Starship Troopers scheme for IG. As far as tutorials go, I'd say that'd be your best bet.

My heart bleeds for our one LGS's Dark Eldar player. All those bikes, all those spiky bikes.

>> No.24801664

>Starship Troopers scheme for IG
Which is perfect, because I want to include Gue'vesa as well. Awesome. Thanks for the tips.

>> No.24802398

I felt the black was too dark/ left the models feeling unpainted so to speak, if you've got the patience maybe mix up a dark grey to make the shadows stand out a bit better? Then again my fatigues were quite dark so you might not have the same problem.

>> No.24802902


They're just the corsair guns from the Forge world set, I mixed in Dire avenger parts as well as guardian parts. My Eldar bitz box was huge

The missile launchers here are repear launchers.

>> No.24802926


My Corsair princess was made from a fair few kits too.

I'll finish them off some day. Just need to re buy all my paints since they dried up, and have to find the alternative ones from GW's new paints

>> No.24803765

>> No.24804715

Take the opportunity and swap to Coat d'Arms (if you want easy compatibility with old Citadel) or Vallejo Model Colour. Don't keep throwing money at GW paints that dry up and now use a system totally different to what you're used to.

>> No.24804792

Can you go into a little bit more detail about the new GW paints, anon? I'm curious and interested in this

>> No.24804857

They're designed to make it easy for new painters, with specific paints for each step of the process - I don't know exactly how it works, but there's 'base', 'shade'. 'layer 1', 'layer 2', 'dry', 'glaze' and 'edge' paints - I'm told they work very well if you follow their guides, but they're far from a 100% match to the colours in their old range.

>> No.24805187

Really like the flame, though honestly the brass could use some oxydization effects on it to distinguish it from the warm brown wood panels.

>> No.24805217

But is there any drawback?

>> No.24805262

I dunno - like I said, I'm not an expert on it, they brought it in after I stopped using GW paint.

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