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[ERROR] No.24044052 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

General Miniature Painting/Conversion/WIP Thread.

And since the Terrain General Thread has turned into Dorito General Thread, don't feel that Terrain is unwelcome in this thread if you think that Dorito General is unrecoverable.





>> No.24044227

here's the updated front of my Kranon from the other thread, how's it looking guys?

>> No.24044244

forgot the picture

>> No.24044248

Posting some qip from the last thread. This first one is some scrap bits made into a nurgle herald. After the green stuff drys im gona clean him up and put some expanding foam on him to bulk him out.

>> No.24044275

and heres the khorne one. Gona clean up lines and add a greenstuff spine/tail tomorrow.
Also i know my group is fine with it but i know heralds are normally on a small base, is it going to be a problem later on that they will be on 40mm?

>> No.24044298

Its looking good. I would suggest puting a wash over the metalic portions. I used to paint boltgun metal on my farrow for warmachine and my mind was blown how much better it looked with a black wash put on.

>> No.24044926

id agree with this

>> No.24045025

>> No.24045162

>> No.24045370

Also, while I'm at it does anyone have any suggestions to what color horns would make him look more badass?

>> No.24045738

What colour is he going to be? You'll probably want to contrast.

>> No.24045830

Going with black legion

>> No.24045896

I am not a photographer...

>> No.24045932

Traditionally, you should go for bleached bone.

But if you want bling you could go for a gold, or if you wanted something more chaotic/daemonic you could try a cracked red or a swirling blue I guess. Just try to stick to the three main colours you're using/used on the model.

>> No.24045957

I was thinking black with gold ridges, however bleached bone with gold ridges would also kinda kick ass. will probably do bone though

>> No.24045982

Too much black already on the model I'd say. Bone with gold sounds nice.

>> No.24046014

Pretty much what >>24045932 said. Bleached bone with white highlights or blood red.

>> No.24046205

First Eldar I've painted. I've been painting Orks for 5-6 years, one would think I would be better by now but I still suck.

All of these models were painted 99% using Dollar store paint. The brand of paint I used depends on which dollar store I felt like going to. The Avengers were primed with white Krylon primer and the Scorpion was painted thickly with black when I got it off ebay.

>> No.24046307

Well, better than most of the models my playgroup uses, and they're using good brands of paint.

>> No.24046320

Absolutely beautiful. I'm supprised you got such good results with dollar store paint

>> No.24046443

What do you think of my first guardsman? He's a veteran in my Ccs. Thus the white shoulder. I'm going for an autumn camo scheme.

I used to paint chaos, so I thought I'd switch it up a bit after 3.5k or more csm and daemons.

>> No.24046478

Thank you for the compliment sir.

It really wasn't that bad. The pigment in these paints is very weak and I used that to get depth on the armor, basically I used the Crafter's "Copenhagen Blue" and watered it down to the consistency of a heavy wash. I put three layers of this on, then highlighted with a 50/50 mix of Copenhagen and Tropical blue to the result seen. The yellow REALLY REALLY sucks. Everything else was decent though.

I love the dollar store paints since they go on so flat, and watering down the black and putting it on white it sinks in and gives a hard line appearance though you cant really see it in photos.

>> No.24046487

And the back view

>> No.24046510

Very nice. i may have to try that at some point. Probably once my guard are done and I go back to tau for the third time.

>> No.24046555

Sorry bout the poor quality on that one, I just snapped the pics for this thread. if i had the patience, and it weren't 1am here, I would have used a lightbox outside.

>> No.24046567

I've done an autumn camo as well can be fun and annoying, yours looking good, but the black is showing through the red.

>> No.24046610

>tfw nobody comments on my poor lonely Tau.

>> No.24046615

Yeah I still need to do a thin coat of it again. My red came a little thin. The hair was a bitch to get right though.

>> No.24046635

Completely missed it. Lol
Looking good. How are you gonna base him? He would look good with snow under his hooves, as it would draw attention to the colors you chose, without detracting too much from the model.

>> No.24046649

They are good man, thats probably why no one has commented, Looks good nothing to say.

>> No.24046677

Eyes could be better, but other than that, very nice.

>> No.24046693

One of my foundation reds is ironically watery as fuck.. So I know that feel.

>> No.24046723

Mix your reds with white, paint a pink layer on then put pure red on top of it. It looks totally bitchin and potentially uses fewer layers than slathering on red until it looks good. I'm sure you all know this already but it works so well I had to point it out.

>> No.24046756

Only 103 of these guys to go! and 20 heavy weapon squads.

>> No.24046766

hey guys, im new to painting. are there any guides or pictures u guys know to help with painting tyranids?

>> No.24046768

oops wrong link for the second one. Meant>>24046487

>> No.24046790

Washes are your friends?
Find a scheme you like and go for it?

I'm rather biased towards brown skin and green carapas. But that's just me.

>> No.24046873

how do i use washes? im practically learning how to paint right now, so any little thing helps

>> No.24046914

Well my expirience is that you use specific washes for specific tasks. The devlin mud replacement paint (still not sure what its called as I stocked up on it a while back) is great for shading and darkening spots that look muddy. You generally apply a wash on an aria that needs to be shaded. I.e. cloth and skin. The paint is watered down, and sinks into the recesses for a shadowy look. I'm a big fan of washes on my warhammer fantasy models, as i'm doing alot of capes for my WoC.

>> No.24046945

easiest way is to slather it on, wait for it to dry and high light.
Pic related.

>> No.24046965

This 100%

>> No.24047040

when do i use thinners and and how do i use them?

>> No.24047100

depends on how dark you want your wash to be. i usually use water to thin down my washes, and do multiple layers on cloth

>> No.24047112

GW's current wahses? Just slather it on because it comes pre-diluted. ot sure about other companies' stuff though. If you want a weaker effect I always found a little water is fine.

>> No.24047129

but half the time i make my own washes.

>> No.24047143

>buying GW's paints

Water is all you need. I always paint on newspaper so I'll usually just keep adding water to a pool of paint and wiping my brush on the paper as I mix to check the consistency and colour.

>> No.24047369

thanks for the advice guys. ill come back and post a pic of my trygon when i finish him. cya

>> No.24047445



ive got about 40+ plaguerats to paint

what for base, metal, armor

shit like that.

I wanna finish this before I forget them and they just sit in a box

>> No.24047491




>> No.24047955

Was planning on doing snow, but I've never done it before.

Thanks dude.

>> No.24048069

Snow is a lot of fun, every easy and can be done very cheaply. There are many different methods.


>> No.24048142

Sort of wishing I had thought to do this before glueing him to the base, but thanks for the link. Never even though to use baking soda before.

>> No.24048250

Gluing him to the base first is not a problem. The only point I can add to the link is that applying glue then sprinkling soda on will get the soda all over the rest of the model. Don't worry, the soda will be dry, but for a while you'll have to brush off the dusty soda that ends up on the model. And that soda flies up into the air and you can taste it.

>> No.24048281

Goddamn, last thread went AWOL while i was sleeping it seems. So i have to ask again: How well does those plastic GW 40k ruins fit on large oval base? I have some ideas about doing some experimenting on minidiorama on my stormraven base so it would be nice to know if its even possible to build a section of basilica admistratum without making the base useless.

>> No.24048304

Nice, although it looks like it wouldn't quite fit with the overall smooth n' spiky-ness of current Daemons.

>> No.24048331

Did you actually give him a bald spot on the back of his head, or is it just the shitty picture?

>> No.24048494

Did those tau guys ever get around trying that black basecoat, grey drybrush fire warriors? I'd like to see some results.

I still can't decide how I'm going to paint mine and wayland's orders got delayed so I'm bored. I have a box of fws and stealthsuits waiting to be painted.

>> No.24048512

Sorry, I missed that post. What ruins are you talking about? I can't see how making "a base" have terrain on it would ruin the base, but if the base already has terrain on it or if... nope, sorry. There must be something I am missing.

It is a problem for a few reasons, but for causal play there shouldn't be a problem. I've thought a lot about the base sizes over the past ... year or so.

A character normally on a 25mm base would be put on the side of the unit in WHFB if the other models are on a 40mm base (ie Fiends). This changes the rank bonus if the character is on a 40mm base and is included in the unit's front rank. Likewise, the inverse is true for normal core if the character tried to join the unit.

In 40k, the size of your base allows you attack more people and likewise receive more attacks. Although the added distance from 40mm from 25mm is minimal, being "within x inches" for ... inspiring presence-like effects is of note. (I haven't played 6th, but it was the case with 5th... I think it's the same.)

40mm bases can be targeted by cannons/templates easier. People say this offsets the other advantages, but I personally don't see it. It changes the way the game is played and how the character interacts with other units on the field.

Causal play = Not a problem (and easily offset if it does work out that it seems like you are getting too many advantages by simply adding 10 or 20 points to the cost of the model in future games).
Tournament = Play it by the book.

>> No.24048852

Those boxed sets where you can build different shaped ruins out of (pic related). We have couple of those buildings lying around here, but its damn difficult to calculate if even 1storey building out of those on the corner of base make it useless for putting stormraven on. I have tried it out on my dreadknight base, it fits there nicely, but as i have no flyers around i cant say if the flyer stick is long enough to keep stormraven above the ruins, or will it touch it and drop out of the sky in flames of glory and death. And 26euros for box of ruins is kinda steep for just trying it out.

Well, maybe ill just buy it anyways, i can always use it in some other manner, maybe when i get enough confidence in my painting and modelling skills to do a real diorama.

>> No.24049148

well the first half worked pretty well
just mixed the second part and now i'll have to wait
maybe i can try casting the first miniature today

>> No.24049281

I'd be tempted to cut two more channels from the bottom sprue to the other arm and the neck. What you want is to imagine that water is filling it up from the bottom and you don't want water to "drop down", because if water "drops down" it can lead to air bubbles.

Note: I've only done industrial resin casts where air bubbles were only personally undesirable, not mandatory-ily. Tapping the mold is another tip that might be applicable.

Surely you could work with it, the only question is if it's easier to work with something else. Personally I'm a bigger fan of making my own terrain but I have to admit that the Basilica looks pretty nice.

>> No.24049315



>> No.24049333

Anyone got any tips for highlighting BAs?
mine always look like somebody just drew a thick line around my units. i've tried watering down the paint more than usual and doing 50/50 mixes.
i'm thinking it may be my technique?

>> No.24049757

when the second half is done i'll try to cut the black marked channels into the mold

>> No.24049779

Loving it.
Perhaps add some tiny horns, pustules etc. to it.
Remember to get rid of the hair. Perhaps change the hooves to feet.

>> No.24049849

You wont need the one leading up to the blue circle, just make sure that the channels made from matchsticks have a clear run to them and that the black lines to the arms are the same thickness, roughly, as the sprue otherwise the resin will overflow from the neck down into the arms at the same time the resin is flowing up from the bottom and you'll certainly get an air pocket. Pouring very slowly is another way to limit this.

Oh, that loincloth as well... make sure the air in there has a place to go. You might need to greenstuff the toes if they end up with air pockets, but that should be an easy job to fix with just putty instead of wacky air vents.

>> No.24049868

(the loincloth on the body)

>> No.24049959

Face looks good, he looks like some pissed off xeno-hating badass.

>> No.24050013

I'm the guy that also paints, but has no camera. My sister took it and now is living far away

>> No.24050075


>> No.24050160

I felt like saying it, sorry. Since I'm in almost every paint thread lurking

>> No.24051941


looks like pieces of sprue got loose and floated upward

still have to wait for like one hour

oh man.... why...

>> No.24052792

bumping this thread with the final molds
I'll wait additional ~1,5 hours because the second mold part (right) is a little bit too soft
maybe by then it will be fully hard

>> No.24053030

How long did the instructions say you had to wait for it to cure?
Wait about 5 hours longer than that.
And remember to cut away the flash from the airways later.

>> No.24053086

instructions said 6 hours
i've waited 7 hours so far

>> No.24053151

Oh, okay.
Go for 8 or 9, since the cure time is so fast.

>> No.24053856

Aww yeah, at last my army is fully painted. Cos I lack the proper equipement i cant provide any pictures yet, gonna try to get some photoshooting done tomorrow for your pleasure. While waiting, take a look at my first mini painted, this was done 1½years ago. Im still proud of those force swords ive done, altho rest of the mini could do with some more work...

>> No.24056128

Beginner here with first attempt at skin. Looking for advice on how to make it look better.

>> No.24056475

Ouch... It's hard to tell, but the left looks good. You'll have a fair bit of work to make sure that the airways are completely free of any flash and once the first cast has been made you'll want to keep the model as it is so you know if you need to clean out some areas of the cast. I'm thinking the hands are gonna be an issue). Either way, with a bit of greenstuff it should be an easy fix. The body looks pretty solid, which is the main thing.

You've drybrushed it, right?

It looks like leather. That is what leather looks like. The drybrushed layer is slightly too light in tone (or too heavily applied) compared to the darker basecoat, but it's perfectly tabletop worthy. You could go for a light wash (Earthshade) to fix this, but it seems like that's a common answer for everything.

For living skin... well, drydrushing doesn't really get the right effect. For living skin, drybrushing looks ok from a distance, but any level of inspection reveals that drybrushing. Wet Blending, your standard base-mid-hightlight blocking or airbrushing is the only way I've seen living skin done that looks right to me.

>> No.24056636


Yeah it's a basecoat of Bugman's Glow drybrushed with Ungor Flesh. My paints are somewhat limited at the moment but I'll try to pick up some Earthshade and see what that does.

Quick question as well, what exactly is a "glaze" paint in the citadel range? I have a pot of Bloodletter glaze and it looks similar to a wash but I haven't tried it on anything yet.

>> No.24056743

I haven't used the glazes. I've got an idea but in reality, I can only guess. Hopefully another Anon can tell us both.

>> No.24056753

1/76 EW Nutrocker kitbash, using a M48 turret.
Painting's done for the tank itself more or less, so onto the weathering, crew & stowage!

Two things more wargaming tanks need- weathering & stowage.

>> No.24056802

I want to see how this looks finished. Thanks for posting the different steps over the past few threads. It's been really interesting.

>> No.24056804

muh own Chapter.

Shading on black not finished on three of the five.

>> No.24056890

No worries. So long as it gets more people into Maschinen Kreiger, and more people weathering their AFVs, I'm happy.
I should get it done before I have to head back up to uni on Sunday...

>> No.24057356

Test model for my Imperial Fists army and an Imperial refueling station I made.

>> No.24057384

"Brother-Captain! The xenos seek to capture the refuelatus!"

>> No.24057429

Don't think I can be bothered rolling up 8000 green stuff rivets tonight...

>> No.24057451


love the girder on the base

>> No.24057484

nice work, but the refueling station needs some kind of shrine/gothic stuff/skulls if you want to call it an 'imperial' refueling station ;)

>> No.24057531


Not sure about skulls, but I totally think there should be graffiti

>> No.24057533

buying GW's paints is the only way I can support my FLGS. Sometimes I go full retard and buy GW-brushes and hate myself for it a month later.
Also the white GW spray is the best one and they have some nice colors for the lazy (armageddon dust)

>> No.24057579




Wanted to keep it as neutral-looking as possible.
Added a few signs like these to make it "40k" though.


Grafitti is a city-thing, not something you find in the middle of the desert.

>> No.24057602

I like it. The gothic theme is actually much more subjective to the architecture of the planet that is often implied. It's mostly prevalent on Shrine Worlds and Forge Worlds. I doubt too much ceremony would be put on for a simple refueling system in the middle of the desert.

>> No.24057666


>> No.24057754

That's the kind of heresy that is destroying 40k.

But I think the fuel tanks look great, >24057579. It's incredibly hard to get something that looks like it belongs in more than one setting. Your fuel tanks look generic enough for ... any setting I can think of, but not perfect for any setting, which is as good as it gets, really. And the skill that you've put into it, makes it a beautiful piece. Well done.

>> No.24057831

I'm having an issue getting hills that sit on top of tombs/cairns where the hills can be removed and the tombs can be removed and the hills placed back down straight on the board to make more gradual hills... hard to explain.

You know when your knuckles hurt and you have to crack them to make them work properly again? That's what is happening to my brain. I am so close, I just need to click my brain.

>> No.24057858

Whats everyone's opinion on this guy? about 90% done.

>> No.24057923

looks good, you should add some highlighting to the carapace plates. and maybe give the face some more light paint, just to make it pop.

>> No.24058042

good effort on it! But it lacks of patience, sit there and spend the whole day painting, enjoying yourselff

>> No.24058194

Thanks for the feed back

Yeah a few things on it could look a bit cleaner and sharper then they do.

>> No.24058236

- Brush technique is good.
- Mold lines on the multi-melta + right arm (and on the bottom of his right shoulder pad, where the red dots/eyes/pustules are) should have been fixed.
- Bottom groin and top thigh pad armour (etc) should be darker tone to represent shadow.
- One more highlight of a lighter green on the zenith of the green body (ie, the brow, top of the nose, the area near the horns/smokestacks, etc) would bring the green in line with the contrast of the blue armour (the armour goes black->tiny bit of darkblue->SKYBLUE, the green goes black->dark green->forest green->slightly-lighter-forest-green).

- The painting method of not blending the bases-mids-highlights and hard shadows are a personal favourite of mine.
- Colour choices aren't good. You shouldn't worry about this criticism if you're happy with the colour scheme.

>> No.24058405

This was very helpful.

As far as the color. I really like the bright blue and the bronze. I plan to change it up alot as far as flesh colors go.

>> No.24058438

Painted this guy yesterday. he isn't even on a base yet.

>> No.24058470

Yeah, the armour and the flesh don't really gel in my opinion, but that can be a common criticism when someone looks at a single model. If someone looks at a whole army of the colour scheme then it looks a lot more uniform and thus "works".

>> No.24058486

Looted dreffkan!

>> No.24058501

love the ymgarl face

>> No.24058532

That's really nice. I like how subtle the fleshy bits are.

This is actually the opposite of what this >>24057858 anon is dealing with. On a single model the differences between the fleshy bits and the orange parts of the carapace are more obvious. In an army, the fleshy bits might lose some of their distinction.

>> No.24058555

Yeah next to a few other deamon engins and some CSM i think the green wont seem as off as it might on its own.

Haha the reason I went with green first was cause I have painted quite a few orks..So i felt comfortable trying green first.

>> No.24058583 [DELETED] 

The old stuff if everyone has not seen it before.

Currently thinking about converting KV-2 to ragnarok tank and Wirbelwind to hydra, ideas?

>> No.24058617 [DELETED] 

And the manti.
Thinking about selling these on ebay, any ideas how much will they go for?

>> No.24059803

I've seen you post this a couple of times, do you have the other picture? Could you give us a quick runthrough how you made this? I love the rust effect on the tanks.

>> No.24060154

What happened to lady clares tank posts!?

>> No.24060559


>> No.24060635

got my stygies 8 vanquishser finished...
"the compensator"

>> No.24060712

primed black, basecoated with a few layers of desert yellow with bleached bone striped camo

>> No.24060743

Google yields this:

Glazes should be translucent; meaning that when applied, it will be tinting the colour underneath. A glaze should cover and tint the entire surface it is painted on. A glaze is meant to stay where you put it.
Washes should be transparent on most of the surface that it is applied, at least the upper areas, and ridges, and opaque in the lower areas and crevices. A wash is meant to ‘sink’ into the areas it is applied, and to pull away from the upper surfaces on which it is applied.

>> No.24060818

details painted black, black lined around stripes for more of a pop. ended up swapping two fingers with open hand. washed with watered down flesh wash. red and white insignia stripes on either side to match the rest of the army

>> No.24060905

painted details and commander, added stowage. Tip for extras: smoke launchers and other accessories are best painted separately then glued on... nothing rustles my jimmies like repainting over brown or silver that got on the hull

>> No.24060922

Either the tripfag deleted them or a janitor/mod did.

If the tripfag did then maybe s/he realised that s/he wasn't posting anything new and that her/his post could easily be dismissed as advertising with a flimsy addendum of asking for "converting something to something else" ideas.

If a janitor/mod was responsible then maybe the ebay remark was frowned upon.

S/he hasn't added anything in -this- thread, but in the other threads there were a few posts where s/he gave advice and such.

Is this the one that has the blacklined camo with red/white motifs/detail?...

Apparently so. I love this scheme. Have you tried that camo on the foot sloggers? How did it work out? Can we get a close up if you have? Does the blacklining need to be ridiculously thin?

Yes, capcha. It is a item it suave as fuck.

>> No.24060968

"Gunner, see those guys? Why aren't they dead yet?"

>> No.24061092

here's the rest of the army. well, most of it. Camo on tallarn is not really eye-catching to me. I like them more rag-tag with solid colors. i use bleached bone on the smocks and pants with light watered down fleshwash on them, just like the tanks. weathers them nicely without making them too dark for desert troops and helps when doing batches of infantry to speed it up

>> No.24061160

stowage. Desert rats gotta keep plenty of gear on hand for those long treks across the sands

>> No.24061199

and viola! i'll put it on a lascannon hull but this one's here so why not?

>> No.24061466


>>dat camo
>kinda looks like desert DPM.

/k/ommando here. I am well jell.

>> No.24062055

>green stuff rivets
Get one of these. Get some plasticard/sheet styrene. Punch out as many rivets as you need.

>> No.24062617

thats a cool idea.

>> No.24064606

all the rivets on the turret and hull mods are actually plasticard rod sliced like a carrot. try evergreen scale models. the rod and tube assortment, item number 217. use a hobby knife to slice a butt-ton of dots. Make a little super glue puddle, and poke the knife tip into a dot, touch it to the glue, and place it where you want. instant rivets!

>> No.24064685

demolisher is another of mine, this one for my traitor guard. the footsoldiers of my iron warriors csm. first time with weathering powder, worked out well

>> No.24064698

I'm going to be starting a Warhammer table for my apartment soon. Trying to decide on a theme. A local store owner that went out of business is trying to sell me his old table. It's basically just a green board with a ditch running through it. I'm toying with the idea of getting it and building a jungle board with an imperial outpost or reclaimed city ruins. I play imperial guard and the only foreseeable opponent will be my girlfriend's Nid army so I'd like to play into the theme of both of our armies. Any ideas or suggestions?

>> No.24064763

reclaimed city ruins with nid stuff growing all over the place on one side, and burned nid stuff on what would be the reclaimed side, piles of ashes and nid pillar things black with smoke and soot. make it look like a city being fought over by nids and guard

>> No.24064814

speaking of which... finished this asshole a month ago. Wanna stay sane? DON'T build a storm eagle

>> No.24064844

a few extra details will make it golden, but it's pretty much done

>> No.24064907

just realizing i have all the before pics on my phone...

>> No.24065095

I tried this.. but screwed it up and didn't put the glue on the model... Made a nice little puddle of plastic rods and gluehahahaha

>> No.24065108

I wish I got to build and paint vehicles more. When I get a new vehicle I drop everything and get it done in no time and enjoy the time spent doing it. Then I go back to painting tifes of guardsmen...

>> No.24065158

smear it around so the glue doesn't snag the dot off the knife tip

>> No.24065306

Look at that glorious yellow bastard! nice work.

>> No.24065485

Some odds and ends. Working on Space Wolves and Dark Angels battle group that are forced to work together. Space Wolves are the primary force. The idea is to do a drop pod assault with foot slogging Wolf Guard termies while the Dark Angels do Termicide with a Termie Librarian, 9 man Deathwatch team, and combi-melta scouts.

Was thinking of making two champion/veteran models to have duel at the end of the game too.

>> No.24065500

I know that feel, bro
i've painted so goddamn many of these guys.... traitor guardsmen are a bitch. all these greenstuff gasmasks... but i'm close to a hundred now. been my pet project for the past year. too bad i got sucked back into tallarn and orks again, no time to work on the other russ and medusa for these guys that have been patiently waiting for their turn.

>> No.24065517

forgot pic

>> No.24065603

good inking brah, i like the theme. You should have the champs each looking over with scowls, like they're mean-mugging eachother from across the battlefield.

pic unrelated, more wip iron warriors. They're all done now, but in cases

>> No.24065648

I'm in the process of making a board but nothing has changed since I last posted pictures. Keep an eye on on these painting threads because, considering how much time I've thought about it, it only makes that someone else can learn from my mistakes.

P.S. Jungle would be bloody hard to do right.

>> No.24065684


>> No.24065780

thank you. I'll get the whole army posted some day. they're mostly done. had them on the GW seattle battle bunker facebook, won best painted in a 1500 pt tourney Conversion for the gasmasks is cake, and although a hundred is a fucking nightmare, small batches of ten at a time is fine. regular cadian helmet, slice off the chinstrap. cover his face with a thin layer of greenstuff, then push two plasticard rivets in as his eyes. a slice of thicker rod for the filter, where the chinstrap was, to cover the mouth and slightly over the tip of his nose (small pegs from GW sprues are perfect, I knew holding onto that sprue would be worth it.)

>> No.24065795

Just wanna show what my mates did one day... I was there giving some "artistic feedback". And this is reason why my grey knights' bases are done urban-style. Lucky me, that board is stored in my closet.

>> No.24065953

Man, I gotta make Krieg masks.

For 6mm.

>> No.24068718

Step one: Buy lots of styrofoam blocks
Step two: Carve them into six-eight blocks of about an equal share in area to the tale you plan on playing upon.
Step three: carve styrofoam blocks into the shapes of hills, rivers, or city streets, etc.
step four: make it so that you can feasibly connect them in many different directions.
step five: paint them in desired colours, then create basic terrain pieces such as buildings or trees.

You now have a table which can be changed many times, and which can have many new pieces made for it. Now all you need is to invent some ingenious way of storing it all. Perhaps a shelving unit in a closet. If you make your basic terrain a certain size, it shouldn't be hard.

>> No.24068725

Do the lines line up to have a 4' by 4' board without the Imperium insignia? Cause you gotta think about the future.

Actually just a terrain piece would work to cover the insignia. I'm thinking a Starcraft style helipad.

Well, looks like I didn't need to bump the thread before bed.

>> No.24068800

cleaned it and tried the first casting of a model
the hands are no problem but the kilt on the front is way to thin

>> No.24068853

Nice results.

>> No.24069137

black = copy
grey = original

the problems are the pointy parts of the armor

>> No.24069248

I'd be more bothered by the fact that they'll all be standing in the same pose.

>> No.24069255

>not wanting your minies to have a shield wall formation, all same uniforms and weapons

do you even discipline?

>> No.24069278

Does that look like a shieldwall to you?

>> No.24069300

use your imagination dude


>> No.24070626

My kommando boy conversion

>> No.24070640

Blood axe shoota boy

>> No.24070641


>> No.24070686

Where'd you get the helmet?

>> No.24070727

Woooo conversion thread! 100% WYSIWYG convert up in this mother!

Quick question: Which Imperial Guard flyer would most accurately portray a TIE Fighter? (2+ cannons, 2+ hull points, no carry capacity)

>> No.24070748

I got it from a Tamyia German soldier kit

>> No.24070766


None unless you resort to Forge World; in that case, the Imperial Thunderbolt or Lightning seem equally good for that.

The only "main game" (i.e. non-FW) IG flyers are the Valk and Vendetta, which are both fatties with transport capacity.

You could ally up some SM and take the Stormtalon, though.

>> No.24070800

First, nice doubles.
Second, naturally, they would by Forgeworld.
I'll see if anyone at my store has the appropriate book.

>> No.24070851

I'd post some pics but my camera is shit.

>> No.24070886

...hey, I recognise those models from Ailaros' IG Battle Reports!

>> No.24071873

how long does it take greystuff or greenstuff to fully cure?
if i nick it a little with my finger nail i'll get a little nick

I wanted to use the greenstuff as a mold for little spikes

>> No.24071975

>dat happy wee green face

>> No.24072059

How do apartment dwellers prime?

I just received my first paints and batch of minis, and judging on all the warnings on the cans with primer this is some toxic shit.

Is there any way to do it indoors, or should I just go all the way outside and do it?

>> No.24072079

Do it outside or get a spray booth.

>> No.24072186


>> No.24072222


Takes about a day/overnight, but I've found it only ever goes as hard as very soft plastic. It doesn't set like resin or anything, so you can still make a mark in it with a stiff finger nail.

>> No.24072223

anyone know where I can find a cheap black paint for the bases of my models. don't wanna waste my Chaos black on the base. or what would I look for when searching for a substitute?

>> No.24072449

This is the first mini I ever painted this picture is about 5 days old, havent taken a newer one yet. I'm working on the base right now it's also the first base i've ever done and i'm not very happy with it.

>> No.24072458

from the back

>> No.24072498

now THIS guy. he is my third attempt at painting a mini after my second went really meh. personally, he is my favorite this picture doesn't do justice to how cool he looks. inb4 learn how to take pictures of your minis

>> No.24072502

shoulda taken pics from a couple more angles

>> No.24072733

in the process of painting this at the moment, it's taking a while, there's so many little cuts, open sores and other squishy stuff to do

>> No.24072850

Painted the sergeant for my sternguard for a game tomorrow, but I doubt I will get more some basic coloring done for the rest of his four mates.
Painting with a bandaged thumb is pretty shit, even if it's only the offhand.

>> No.24072864

Also, why do I see the worst of mistakes only once I post a picture online?

>> No.24072877


>> No.24072880


So'kay, I do as well.

Also, sexy copper marine.

>> No.24072929


I would like achieve a similar look on my Thousand sons (the dirty copper). would you tell us the steps.

>> No.24072961

Can you take a pic of that next to a normal mini, I've always wanted to know it's scale compared to the other forgeworld greater daemons

>> No.24072963

So, I'm getting ready to pain my first sentinel tonight and after looking at it, I've primed the legs and the pilot and a panel(that one to mostly play around with coloration) Any tips? I'm using Valegho paints and will be using distilled water for a thiner. I've got a gray, black and rust wash as well.

>> No.24073090

there ya go

>> No.24073137

Not much to it, black basecoat, then mix some Balthasar Gold with a bit of Runelord Brass, use that generously, apply some very thinned Abbadon Black mixed with Hashut Copper (...I think. That pot has no label, so I'm not too sure) over that, touch up with some dry Runelord Brass, slather everything with Devlan Mud, and you're done.

>> No.24073174

>touch up with some dry Runelord Brass
>Runelord Brass
Disregard that, I suck cocks. I meant Sycorax Bronze

>> No.24073207

Aren't FW monsters too big to play 40k/WHFB with them?

>> No.24073245

Can't say much about Valegho, never used those, but as a general recommendation you'll want to thin your paints rather too much than too little, at least in the beginning. Strt out on the largest, smoothest surface of the mini and get a feel for the brush and the paint.

>> No.24073248

I don't really play that much, more just into the painting, I don't think there's much of a problem with it being bigger, at least it fits on to a dreadknight/trygon size base.

>> No.24073264

I've played this at my local GW before

>> No.24073352

Yeah I've heard that, I figure I'll get the panels slapped together and ready to go for painting before anything else. Though I'm debating the merits of making it an up armored sentinel right now.

>> No.24073501


>> No.24073512

...was wondering when someone noticed that. Though yeah Vallejo paint.

>> No.24073541

i like you
dollar store acrylics are great
and its nice to see someone paint well without using 4$/bottle paints

>> No.24073565

I'll have to keep this in mind. Do you use washes?

>> No.24073772

so i can use any acryl-paint to paint my models?
because getting a big bottle with like 120ml for 2€ is way cheaper then getting 12ml for 4€

also totally unrelated to this topic:
can i reuse old silicone molds somehow? i may have one where 1mm of model's knee is poking out
i fear the mold will break when i take them apart

>> No.24073795


theyre just acrylic paints.

>> No.24073866


thanks, Doc.

>> No.24074212


>> No.24074304


>> No.24075121

You can reinforce silicone molds with silicone glue. Go to your hardware store and look for a "Window Glue" or a bathroom type glue.

>> No.24075151

you mean silicone caulking?

>> No.24075252

We call it silicone paste here, but I think it's the same. The big thing is that you don't want any leaks in the mold and you want to check the repair frequently because the movement, degradation, etc, might break the glob of glue apart from the mold. The glue's dirt cheap so you can go to town on it.

I've heard some people use the paste as the actual mold, too. But I doubt that it's strong enough for a mold.

Pic NOT related, but close.

>> No.24076010

you want to GE silicone 1 if you're making molds, use glycerin to reduce it to a pourable consistency (precise ratio is best obtained by experimentation, but glycerin is a key factor in accelerating the mold's cure time to reasonable lengths.

Also, did someone say stowage? current razorback WIP, how'd I do? aside from breaking a handle when i picked up the model, that is.

>> No.24076042

How easy does the plastic glue undo for models? I have some guys that I want to put magnets into but they were already glued. Or am I fucked?

>> No.24076068

you're fucked, it's a solvent and melts them into one piece of plastic

>> No.24076141

Plastic glue melts the plastic and welds it together. A small amount is easily broken apart, sanded down and it's done. More glue and you might need some putty when you rejoin them.

You're not fucked as long as you have basic putty skills. If you have to use a knife to get the parts apart, then you'll almost certainly need semi-decent putty skills.

>> No.24076415

just use a small saw and replace and gaps with green stuff

and stop using plastic glue

>> No.24076502

>that feeling when you have to paint all the guardsmen

Where do I start? I have seen people paint everything black before doing more, is that good?

>> No.24076557

black base makes khaki pants infuckingpossible to paint

>> No.24076613

what do you recommend? I have never done this before.

>> No.24076623

nope, just layer of foundation dheneb stone and anything you want over it.

>> No.24076681

First ever Rhino, pretty much done.

>> No.24076720

Nice, but you might want to dull the brass sections a bit with something like Agrax Earthshade. Otherwise they'll stand out over the rather muted main colors too much.

>> No.24076748

What do you guys think of this paint scheme?

>> No.24076824

Yea, I haven't decided yet if I want it more or less shiny and blinged or dull and weathered. I'll have a lot of Deathguard rhinos too so I was thinking I'd make them really dirty and worn to have a bigger contrast.

>> No.24076847


Very uniform and clean. Nice little touches like the pigmenting of the feet to simulate earth and dirt. The pink really suits chaos. It harks back to to my memories of oldschool chaos.

They're great.

>> No.24076908

Remember to prime first.

>> No.24076910


I'm inclined to say a little TOO uniform and clean, although I'm not certain what I would change to fix it.

>> No.24076928

will any primer do? I don't have any right now.

>> No.24076929


I'm not sure if it's just the photo, but something about your weathering is making it look like the tank underneath the paint is made of wood...

>> No.24076955

I personally have used GW primer in both black and white and it seems to be okay, if fairly overpriced. Although my white primer seems to have separated in the can. I've also head of other brands being used but have no experience.

>> No.24076969

I guess some more wild colour to the topknots could make a change. Flat out 80s glamrock style yeea.
Probably just the photo, it's just a standard black and metal weathering.

>> No.24077005

*sigh why do people waste a dread on their first model...paint the troops choice you're least likely to use first...

>> No.24077024

who uses chaos dreads anyway?

>> No.24077037

though, you have done a marvelous job for your first mini. Experience and technique toolkits need to be developed over time and many minis before you work on centerpieces.

>> No.24077093


Its hard to say as a lot of "improvements" may just be aesthetic choices. Sometimes it feels like nothing is ever finished and more can be done. I think the test it that you are happy.

Personally I would add some dark gold to the the little details here and there or on a set of horns or two. Its something I have thought about doing with pink horrors and from what I've seen it adds contrast without getting too busy.

>> No.24077149

Because it's bigger therefor a tad easier to get your bearings on painting. I did that with a crisis suit I have, painted him start to finish so I have an example to go off of for my second one. I'll post a pic when I get my camera back.

>> No.24077527

This is the best primer I have used.

Thin it with Acetone (you should buy acetone anyway. It's a very useful household solvent). Brush it on with a large, soft brush. Crisp. Define. Done. Easy to strip.

Spray primer is too hard to get a good coverage without losing all the detail, Black Primer to too dark and White Primer is too light.

Tamiya Surface Primer (or Similar Brand™) is the perfect choice. You cannot fuck it up. Unless you manage to fuck it up, in which case you're likely to fuck up everything in your life forever.

>> No.24077612

can i just say... fuck the fleshly mutations on the armour of the Chaos Chosen in the Dark Vengeance box.

>> No.24078468

I haven't painted the guns and support shit yet, but everything is magnetized and it's awesome.

>> No.24078510

What does /tg/ think?

>> No.24079135

Very nice.

>> No.24079268

Try using cheap car primer.

I recommend Krylon as they make quite a large selection of colors and are dirt cheap. Usually around $4 *With tax* at walmart.

Always goes on smooth, never blotchy, always good coverage.

There's always a cheaper equivalent to hobby products. I will admit Tamiya clear red has the best blood coloring ever. I will defend that though.

>> No.24079285

I love it.. I love you.. lets make babies

>> No.24079794

Spray? I know it's just me, but I've never been able to get spray to work. It's find for terrain but whenever I put it on minis: Disaster.

Aerosols are also just expensive in New Zealand. I think it's because shipping it over requires effort.

>> No.24080319

it's like $10 bucks from the warehouse. But get your stuff from http://www.slavetopainting.co.nz/

>> No.24080467

Post noted.

>> No.24080490

Where in NZ are you?

>> No.24080600

Christchurch. You?

>> No.24080629

:( Hamilton.... good news tho, slavetopainting is based in chch

>> No.24080691

Hamilton would be great. All those houses being semi-neglect and exactly the same design would translate well for tabletop games!

Do you know how hard it is to do an Earthquake themed board? Very Hard. That's how hard.

>> No.24080774

Okay. Let me preface this by saying I'm a pretty terrible painter, and your skill is far above my own.

It's flat. Very, very, flat. You've got two complementary values of blue, with a contrasting shade of orange. So, that's good. You've got that shit under control.

However, the orange is just in one spot. Contrasting colors draw attention, but you haven't got it drawing attention TO anything. It's just there, distracting from the rest of the model.

So, where you go depends on how you paint the guns and shit.

If you paint the guns orange as well (or a complimentary color to orange that also contrasts the blues), then what you want to do is spread the orange around on the actual suit itself, so that it plays off the guns.

Or, if you don't paint the guns orange, and paint them some non-contrasting color (black, blue, metallic silver), then you want to add another complimentary color to break up the blue, so it's not so monochromatic. (Note: monochromatic is perfectly fine, as long as you have different values of the same color, like your dark/light blue.)

-random color theoryfag

>> No.24080776

just make a hamilton board... then get a hammer out!

>> No.24080972

Hastily made photoshop related.

>> No.24081109


>> No.24081111

Second hasty photoshop also related.

>> No.24082134

orange guns, sensor thing not orange but with orange gems.

>> No.24082262

My crisis suit really looks bad in comparison. Then again, I kind of luck the mucky, dirty look on him

>> No.24083395

I haven't gotten around to painting the guns yet, but they were going to be the darker blue (i'm using Russ Grey and The Fang). I don't have a proper brush to do sept markings on my guy yet. The ones I have are too flimsy and I want something a little more firm to paint orange sept markings with.
As for the color remark, I just stole Tau's Sa'cea scheme because I have a thing for darker colored helmets on the guys.

>> No.24083442

Well, I just sent this down to be primed, plan to paint her tomorrow. And yes, that IS the riptide.


>> No.24083466

Took three hours to pose, mind you a lot of that was playing around. Seriously a fun kit. Used a metal rod to get him to balance on that one foot.


>> No.24083467

That appears to be the most precarious and unstable model I have ever seen.

>> No.24083473

Don't get too discouraged, I've had a few years of practice, this is my third collection I'm doing. I lost my first set (was really bad looking) in a move to california. And i sold my last set last year on ebay to fix a broken tooth. If you don't already have them get washes, they help out tremendously. They're kind of hard to do on battlesuits because of all the flat panels. For the most part your guy looks pretty good. highlight the edges and outer corners of the suit and he'll pop out more.
BTW I'm jealous of the traditional colors you're doing, cuz I never could get the browns to look good. Mine always came out in a butterfingery look, so I fell back on the other favorite scheme.

>> No.24083497

Man though, I gotta say GW is getting good at making easy to build kits too. Looking at all the pieces, I expected this to be a nightmare, but it was actually ok


>> No.24083531

>easy to build
thank goodness, I'm going to be getting one in like 2 months.

>> No.24083534

Painted some Infinity shit.

>> No.24083544

I mean, yeah, I could have had it walking, but I had this indescribable need to go further. It was going to be a glorious center piece. Had to be.


You'd be honestly surprised. A couple metal rods in the leg, and the body is pretty light. I gave it some tests and unless someone throws it to the ground its should stay up for a while

>> No.24083561

What primer and colours did you use to do it? Mine comes too dark

>> No.24083680

Look into brush-on/airbrush primers. I use Vallejo Surface Primer with good results. I hear Tamiya makes a good one as well. Another alternative I've heard of people using is acrylic gesso. Google it up for more infos?

>> No.24083708

Cheap craft acrylics such as Apple Barrel. Your local mega mart (Wal-Mart) or disount store should have a good selection.

>> No.24083714

I was going to go for something more along these lines. Also some markings on the sides of the jetpacks, but like I said. Need a different brush to work with at the moment.

>> No.24083725

cool thanks.

>> No.24083762

how do you highlight? I'm very new to painting

>> No.24083797

I used Krylon indoor/outdoor white primer (cap indicates color bullshit, I go for matte white.). white undercoats bring out the colors better imo, black makes them too dark. I lightly spray it from a distance in short bursts so I don't immediately kill the fucking thing with paint (too much). If I'm just lightly sprinkling the thing I move in closer to get a better coat on it. I think I picked up my can for like less than 3 bucks at my wal-mart.

>> No.24084021

Pretty much I get a tiny bit of paint on the tip of my brush, do two strokes with my brush (one stroke on one side, and another stroke on the other.) to get rid of some of the paint, and apply it down the corners of the edges of the model.
Before doing that though I looked at my model a long time thinking out where I wanted to do the highlighting at. I did more than what I show in this pic, but it's where I wanted to focus painting, as most of the time you see the models from top downward angle.
Fun fact, I not only did the helmet darker, but his jetpack and shoulders darker too to make him look smaller.

>> No.24084213

Ah okay. What would you used to highlight if you were doing my brown/default tau? A 50/50 mix of white and the brown itself?

by the way, excellent drawing. Helps me a lot.

>> No.24084388

My wip heldrake, thoughts?

>> No.24084411


>> No.24084486

not to sure how i feal a bout this

>> No.24084498


>> No.24084521


>> No.24084542

Well I use the citadel paint line because the warstore likes to ship me old dried up vallejo. So I go down to this shitty game shop that happens to sell the paint. I used Fenrisian Grey to highlight my Russ Grey, and on The Fang I did a mix of that and White Scar.
But yea, you can get that effect with a 50/50 mix of the brown and white for the lighter brown. I'd see about a 75/25 mix of the darker brown and white respectively first before going with a 50/50 mix. Just my thoughts.

>> No.24084584

how'd you do the skin on the back?

>> No.24084656

Blood raven looted Khorne berzerker from a few days ago, this time with a wash of black over the whole thing and a coat of white on shoulderpads afterwwards.
Any tips?

>> No.24084716

>>24045896 here. My two prototypes before I did the sergeant, plus I based all three. Only 9 more guys to go!

>> No.24084721

Wow that photo makes them look way worse than it does in person.

>> No.24084758

it is said that camera's do add on 10 pounds.

>> No.24084872

>it looks good, aint no waste.

>> No.24085169

Yeah, cameras tend to bring out all the hidden mold lines, patchy paintwork and the tiniest specks of dust and hair on a model.

>> No.24085177


of paint.

>> No.24085211

That's some advanced optical illusionary tips there.

Using those types of methods are really awesome.

Interesting model. I do not know how I feel about it but I really respect the level of conversion you are putting into it.

Same as Heldrake response from above. The turret can't turn over the new hatch, can it? Well, it's not like the tanks in 40k are serious anyway. I do like the back a lot.

Your painting is good. I have half a dozen of the old monopose Berserkers. I wish I had more of them, so it's a bittersweet feeling.

The snow is very nicely layered. The chin is the same colour as your highlight, so it's a bit off putting. Getting a good shot of your models is very difficult without a lot of experience and sometimes specialised equipment (i.e. lightbox, natural light, macro capable camera, etc). Did the snow "dust up" the models? You might want to brush them down every so often; if it's soda then it can't be good for the paintwork.


>> No.24085264

>optical illusion
Yea, I would like my tau commander to stay on the field as long as possible, so I don't want him to look threatening. Otherwise he's gonna be on the opponents shit list. I was going to do something similar to my two hammerheads.

>> No.24085293

Whoa. That's some military intelligence theoretical shit right there!

(the closest I came to that level was "herp. gonna paint my scouts in camo to match the board")

>> No.24085417

the turret turns well over the front hatch, now if i put a driver there like i think a may do on my the other squads chimera.

i had silly notation to counts has my squad of storm troopers in to commissar and have a chmirea with two (driver and commander) commissars sticking out the top.

>> No.24085439

also apparently it's bed time , total English fail up there.

>> No.24085652

I brushed them down lightly already, but I was waiting for the snow to dry more before I do a heavier brush.
Any recommendations on the chin, or should I just make it the same color as the rest of them?

>> No.24085776

I think anything other than the light blue works.

>> No.24086157

If it'd stop fucking raining tomorrow this guy will get primed. Genuinely the most fun thing I've built in awhile, so many good bits leftover and so fun to convert. Has a pair of scorchas mounted on his second set of arms but they're off for thr time being, along with the engine(s).

Thinking of leaving the bosspole off entirely...

>> No.24086226

You guys ready?

Some converted grey knights into nurgle terminators.

>> No.24086238

Plague Marines up in this bitch. Givin you space clap.

>> No.24086246

Three finished units and Typhus

>> No.24086256

Close up on Typhus.

>> No.24086262


that lightning on his scthe shows you have skill and a steady hand.

So why havent you done oxidation on all that copper / brass, mang?

>> No.24086270

I also made Deathwatch models for all my players in the RPG.

>> No.24086279

For one thing, brass doesn't corrode, it's they use it on boat fixtures.
And for second, that metal all used to be clean and shiny. Now the metal itself is diseased.

>> No.24086283

Second deathwatch pic.

>> No.24086296

an idea for a colour scheme. looks kinda farsighty

>> No.24086315

It does corrode in the right environments...its just resistant

>> No.24086345


it's a shame, they just look a tad unfinished is all.

>> No.24086369

hmm. Maybe you're right. Dry brush a little orange maybe?

>> No.24086433

Sounds good. maybe a wash?

>> No.24086442


I'd do a dirty wash of devlan mud + a tiny dab of chaos black.

Highlight the edges with pure, whatever brass / copper paint you've used.

>> No.24086448

Looks great, but I couldn't help myself.

>> No.24086509

We've reached the reply limit.

>> No.24086578

New Thread


>> No.24086597

Nice OP.

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