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[ERROR] No.21882376 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

So /tg/ I unfortunately got sucked into 40k. I have the AOBR marines which I dipped blue pretty much, a tac squad that came with a drop pod which was shoddily built and probably won't ever be painted, and now some Dark Angels from DV. I got the other models cheap but probably won't ever use them because I pretty much have done shit with them so far.

I want a new start with my dark vengeance models (I know I can strip the others with simple green and I might go back to them someday just not yet) and so I have a couple questions.

What should I use to base the models with? I like the looks of the slate and all the little resin pieces in the 40k basing kit but is this just a total waste?

2. What's the best way to prime miniatures? It seems like even if it may be slow wearing a latex glove and spraying each mini individually would be the way to go.

3. Is there any difference between the "plastic glue" GW sells and good old super glue?

Pic-semi related, what I want my DA to look like (minus the robe since they're just for now regular tactical marines)

>> No.21882447

>>21882376
Get Gale force nine for your glue. You'll never want for an adhesive ever again

>> No.21882536

Plastic glue is not superglue, and by extension, GW Plastic glue is not superglue, but just use superglue if you are happy with it.

you should be fine priming your models in small batches, I do mine on the bottom of an old egg carton, generally do 4 at a time or so. I just stick them all to one end of the carton with blu-tack and then hold the other end while I spray them.

>> No.21882601

>>21882376

1. It's worth it but it's expensive. Don't pay MSRP. Slate can be gotten from elsewhere, but those resin bits and base toppers are priceless and a pain to make yourself. If you want to be cheap, you can use your own bits and sprue rubble and stolen/picked/bulk slate instead.

2. Priming is fast. YouTube how to do it. If one by one is still too slow, affix them in a line and blast the whole row.

3. Plastic glue melts plastic together. Super glue is just super glue. Don't buy Citadel brand anything, except miniatures and paints.

>> No.21882649

>>21882601
So where can I find just "plastic glue"? Should a big hobby supply store like hobby lobby have it? Does it make the plastic have those discolored white spots like super glue seems to?

>> No.21882786

>>21882649

Superglue shouldn't be discolouring your models, it's never done so to mine and I've never used anything but super glue

>> No.21882803

I have a question about the Dark Vengeance models. I'm painting up the Dark Angels, right? How do I get a nice clear white on the symbol on the shoulder pads? I tried everything, thin layers, thick layers, it just looks chalky and weird. I used a grey primer, by the way. Maybe I should just prime the models white and not touch the symbols.

>> No.21882827

>>21882786
I am guessing he uses about half a tube per marine.

>> No.21882829

>>21882803

no, don't ever prime white unless you want particularly bright models, definitely not with dark angels.

Really what you should be doing is working up through a grey shade or two beneath your white.

>> No.21882910

>>21882649

If you're looking for the melting permanent kind, it's called plastic cement, usually. If you want regular glue for models, just use anything called super glue. For either brand, one drop is enough. This shit is not like your Elmer's PVA glue you used in kindergarden.

>> No.21882915

>>21882803

Painting white sucks. Learn to live with it. Probably going to take you 5-10 layers at least.

>> No.21882978

>>21882915
>>21882829
Well that sucks. And it's such a tiny fucking surface too. Suggestions for another color I could use that's easier to paint?

Greyscale?

>> No.21883021

>>21882915
the GW white base is pretty good from my experience.

>> No.21883085

>>21882376
1. Buying basing materials is a waste of time. Take a trip to the country, enjoy nature's bounty, fill some ziploc bags with grass, dirt, etc. For centrepiece models, mix in spare parts from sprues. You'll have some of your own, but for that extra touch, you'll probably find people with bits they aren't using at your FLGS.
2. Not necessary. Do them in batches. A properly-ventilated room can be hard to find, so you might wanna just put down some old newspaper outside and prime them on that.
3. I confess that I don't know for certain. The impression I got was that GW glue is less corrosive. It won't stick as fast or as firmly, but there's less risk of damaging the model.

>> No.21883536

>>21882376
>What's the best way to prime miniatures?
Don't remove the minis from the sprue. Wash them with soap (to remove the un-moulding agent that they use). Use an airbrush with standard GW paint and water. More water means more layers needed, but also thinner layers that don't fill the details.

>Is there any difference between the "plastic glue" GW sells and good old super glue?
GW glue is a polystyrene glue. It dissolves plastic on both side to merge the two bits you want to glue. This means it's pretty strong for plastic/plastic fixation, but doesn't work on plastic/metal or metal/metal, and can damage tiny bits.
Superglue is cyanoacrylate-based glue, which has an high tensile strengh (difficulty to pull peices from one other), but low shearing strengh (difficulty to snap pieces from the side). Also, it's only effective when the glue's thickness is low. It makes an intermediate layer, so it can be used on metal and.or plastic. To solve the shearing problem, it work best with a metal rod inserted and linking the two parts you want to glue.
For big holes you want to fill, you can use epoxy glue. It's a two-part glue that create an epoxy polymer. The problem is that it takes time to harden (1 day in the past, nowadays it's a matter of minutes)

>> No.21883747

>>21883536
>Don't remove the minis from the sprue. Wash them with soap (to remove the un-moulding agent that they use). Use an airbrush with standard GW paint and water. More water means more layers needed, but also thinner layers that don't fill the details.

Whatever you do OP, don't listen to this

>> No.21883779

>>21883747

Seriously, I never get people who paint on sprues.

>> No.21884427

>>21883747
>Whatever you do OP, don't listen to this
Why ?

>>21883779
>Seriously, I never get people who paint on sprues.
Hell no ! I'm not saying to paint on the sprue. I'm saying to *prime" on the sprue. It's quicker, and with less inaccessible areas.
Painting is an entirely different matter. Shading and highlighting needs to take into account where the surface is located in the finished nini.

>> No.21884433

>>21884427
>nini
*mini

>> No.21884519

>>21883085

>Take a trip to the country, enjoy nature's bounty, fill some ziploc bags with grass, dirt, etc.
>grass, dirt, etc.

>basing your minis with grass and dirt
>2012
Shiggidy diggidy doo da

>> No.21884533

>>21884427

Because that's not priming. Primer keys the surface of the model so that it holds regular paint better. What you're talking about is undercoating, which primer can also do although not always fully.

OP: for the DA insignia, I go Rakarth Flesh -> Pallid Wych Flesh -> highlight Ulthuan Grey. It's a warmer shade than pure white and a lot easier to get looking smooth. You could also try Ceramite White; I've seen that go clean over black undercoat in one or two layers.

>> No.21884555

You should be able to find polystyrene glue anywhere there's a model shop. My local art shop sells tubes of the stuff, which is damn convenient.

>> No.21884566

>>21884427

But when you remove them from te spruce and scrape off the mould lines won't it look like shit?

>> No.21884587

>>21884566

*the
*sprue

Fucking autocorrect, Apple can go die in a fire.

>> No.21884700

>>21884566
Just add some paint on the joints where the plastic is showing. If your paint layers aren't too thick, it won't matter.

>>21884533
>Because that's not priming.
from my experience, that's enough, and airbrushing makes thinner layers than a spray can. I guess one can add some primer agent to the paint though.

>> No.21884787

>>21884700

And that's fine, but understand that minis that aren't properly primed are going to be more susceptible to chipping and paint rubbing off through handling. It's not always a problem, but OP should be aware that there is a difference.

>> No.21885143

>>21882978

I use Wolf Grey (Vallejo's Space Wolf analog) and it works awesome for both a basecoat for lighter colors and as a pseudo-white.

Remember-for painting black and white, it's about looking like it's white, not actually being the white color.

>> No.21885169

>>21884700
you can get primer for the airbrush? such a weird decision to make, but whatever.

>> No.21885466

>>21885169
No idea. Probably more likely to be something to add to a standard paint.

>> No.21885647

>>21882376

I'm in a similar position OP. Got the DV set, the 5 space marine paint set, and a can of black GW undercoat. I took everything off of the sprues (got a few bits mixed up for a while because i am an idiot), then glued everything together using the GW poly cement (left the bolters off). I then undercoated everything outside, about 5 models at a time, then started to paint my normal marines first. I'm just dry brushing caliban green with the GW medium drybrush, Looks pretty neat I think. I've also found painting the white is shitty, might try watering it down a lot and doing lots of layers.

>> No.21885663

>>21885169
Yes you can. I use Vallejo black primer in mine and it works great.

>> No.21885664

>>21882601
I actually really like Citadel Plastic glue. I wont fucking pay MSRP for it.

>> No.21885672

Prime/basecoat = Army Painter Angel Green spray.

yummy

>> No.21885694

>>21885647

Here's a pic

>> No.21885934

>>21885694
Word of advice :
- use the macro option of your camera. Your pic is too blurry
- don't send directly the pic of your camera. Use whatever soft you like to rotate and resize it.

>> No.21886183

>>21885934

True true, I just rushed because a friend turned up, I might take some better ones later

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