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/tg/ - Traditional Games

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[ERROR] No.21530802 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

How'd I do /tg/?

>> No.21530818

Also War40k/Warmahordes thread.

>> No.21530901

its a good start, but you have to go back and hit up those messy edges if you want to win our hearts.
a note on the hilighting, the armor was pretty good, but the cloak needs a bit of work.

>> No.21530921

im a 40k player, imp guard, so i know where your coming from. got a collection of gw tutorials on how to paints. not saying you need them, but some of these are on stuff like brush maitinance, and 2d combat dmg. think you might like

>> No.21530954

>> No.21530958

More tutorials are always nice.

Tried multiple different techniques on the cape. Wet on wet blending, glazing, etc.

>> No.21530971

Looks like Stryker has finally gained the power of bear hands.

>> No.21530984

yeah, from the back they look pretty good. you just want to define the high points a bit more, like you did on the leg wraps (the cloth ones)
over all, you did a pretty damn good job, and that black wash really made the armor seem pretty gritty.

>> No.21531047

pretty good, tidy up a few bits (top of the blue on the loincloth, general edges etc) and its solid.

>> No.21531070

Hey thanks man. I'm not sure if you guys will remember me, so here's one of the first models i ever painted, which was just under a month ago.

I actually converted his sword and pistol around. Now, i did it a retarded way and just swapped the left and right hands around, while flipping the weapons around. To fix this i'll need to later or cut away his hands and mould them with greenstuff but i like how he looks at a tabletop value right now.

>> No.21531086

More contrast on the robe. Darker darks, lighter lights. All that fancy wetblending will be for naught if you can't even see it on photo.

Clean up your metals. If that's what PP stuff looks like thinned I'm damn glad I stick to GW metallics. Touch up the edges and keep the colors nice and segregated. Try highlighting raised iron edges with a bright silver. Bronze doesn't need to be pure bronze. Sometimes a metallic highlight on a rich brown does the trick.

Face needs a lot of work. Get a lighter highlight onto the most raised areas, just so you further bring out the lines. As of now it totally just blends in with the gunmetal and bronze.

Hands off the mini. You got oils on them fingers. They stick to the toy soldier and muck up your painting. Bluetac the base to a cork or something, using a lazy susan is a massive, massive help.

Finally: don't ask /tg/ for advice past basics like this. Go to coolminiornot, those gentlemen know their stuff.

>> No.21531121

Painting thread? Painting thread.

Like my new model guys? Just finished it.

>> No.21531155

I thing a bit more of highlights on your fingers would be better. You may want to wash them with Devlan Mud before that though.

>> No.21531172

brass scorpion i finished a day ago

>> No.21531174

>devlan mud

Nigga can't get that shit anymore. Agrax earthshade is the new skill in a bottle.

>> No.21531179


He still lives in our hearts.

>> No.21531209


>> No.21531230

Dude, that colors are awful, Sovereign was deep blue and dark purple.

>> No.21531343


models are average, tabletop standard is good but too dark need some more contrasts + the female skin doesnt look that good

also the fucking snow man holy shit that looks bad, what is it? white plastic segments? u got ripped if you bought that, it does not resemble snow in any form

just go with the the bicarb + pva mix it will make it way more realistic

>> No.21531352

Recently finished 3" British mortars.

>> No.21531397

I like it , did you do the majority using an airbrush?

Heres a pic of an Ordo Xenos Inquisitor I'm working on

>> No.21531405


>> No.21531415

The snow is official games workshop snow lol.

As for the darkness, it was more of a phone camera fail. The model is quite vibrant irl.

>> No.21531424

Nope, no airbrush, though i bet it would have been damn quicker to!

>> No.21531428

and a guardsman that needs basing (the bayonet has also been removed)

>> No.21531431


i had a feeling it was the GW one, dump it out it looks so bad

>> No.21531447


might i suggest you use a dark blue grey colour like the fang on the rims instead of black? it will bring out the white snow base

>> No.21531498

Sure I'll give it a go, any tips for the snow itself?

>> No.21531531


it looks like youre using mourn mountain gw snow, i like to add 2 - 3 layers then use a very diluted light blue wash (80%+ water ratio) so it gets in the recesses, then drybrush with white to bring more contrast

>> No.21531581

2-3 layers of what?

>> No.21531629

by the looks of his post, mourn mountain GW snow.


>> No.21531654

My latest model, couldn't get better lighting for the photo in this dark-ass country I'm in.

>> No.21531742

Looks fucking flash, and dat face be spooky as shit.

>> No.21532212

Use Woodland Scenics snow. Shit's so cash. Pic related for comparison with GW's.

>> No.21532236

And here how it looks mixed with the right amount of PVA and water.

>> No.21532342

I've always wanted to do a Napoleonic British army, perhaps using Perry's miniatures, but I can't paint for shit.

Shame. I loved that period.

>> No.21532634


mourn mountain snow...1 layer is too thin

>> No.21532646


dude u gotta change ur rocks its ruining your whole model, it looks like a damn brick or a slab of dry putty, not natural at all,

just grab some rocks from your backyard will look better

>> No.21532740


Nice mold lines. Might want to take care of those next time with a pen-knife or a file.

>> No.21532822

yeah that's the one part I am the least pleased with, I might trying to carve it out more first though.

>> No.21532917

On a whim I bought an Almera ruined factory. Vacumformed cheapness, only cost 9.50 (British funny money) for a huge slab of a building. This is WIP, needs tidying and sanding. Felt flimsy as I was constructing it but some minor reinforcment worked wonders.
Bolt Action Tiger II and some PSC Soviets for size comparison.

>Particular duchbos

Close captcha, very close

>> No.21533328

Tip for snow bases - paint the surface white first. THEN put the snow on, and put it on in several layers with thinned glue so you get a solid coat, not a small lump.

Pic related, I use the same lame-ass GW snow.

>> No.21533535

You fucked up hard on the face and the right arm
I suggest doing something to fix those. Paints were wayy too thick. Rest of it loooks good.

>> No.21533745

nice tiger! 555 points is a lot but my 1000 point Russians could only take out a super heavy tank with sixes alone! Other than that pins would be the only other option.

>> No.21533804


666 for Vet and totally useless. I only bought it to paint, an IS-2 is half that cost but worth twice as much

>> No.21533929

since there is a bit of paint discussion in the thread.

Would any of you elegan/tg/entlemen be interested in buying some of the old GW paints.

My LGS didn't get the old paints back to GW fast enough so GW won't buy them back and the shop has about 200 bottles of paint left sitting in a box, including the old painting started kits.

I've been thinking about setting them up for fellow fa/tg/uys to buy them.

>> No.21533939


Im going to back up that statment.

Tiger II: Can kill 6 infantry a turn OR 3 infantry and a an AFV. 1 pin per weapon. 11 armour

IS-2: Can kill 15 infnatry a turn or 3 infantry and an AFV. 1 pin per MMG, D3 pins for main gun. Can demolish buildings. 10 armour.

IS-2 Superior, Tiger II inferior

>> No.21534003

my nurgle renegade militia

>> No.21534031


>> No.21534038

I've been working on a couple of Tervigons for my Tyranid army lately.

The leg in the middle is how everything will be painted, primarily blue, going to purple on the edges. All of the carapace will end up glossy once it's done and varnished. I think I want to keep the fleshy bits more matte, though.

Any thoughts/opinions on the hoof/claw/talon color? I'm thinking of just doing a dark brown, I dunno.

>> No.21534133

these are my 1000+ soviets (IN PROGRESS) I have trouble painting eyes so generally it's brown, peach, white, peach again (excluding eyes) with ink + pupils, thats why some of the copplestone minis have mime faces at the moment...

>> No.21536851

bumpin' for fuck yeah painting!

>> No.21537164

Nice rust.

>> No.21537241

Where'd ya get those Soviets?

>> No.21537271

Working on this guy this week as well as the helldrake, not looking forward to doing the flesh coloring as I am terrible at it haha.

>> No.21537288

Also some Nurgle bros I am trying to work on

>> No.21537416

Ah I remember those models.
You have improved greatly young padawan.
I personally use only washes on the face of my models as I feels they fill the gaps out nicely.

>> No.21537503

I second this.
It's also cheaper than GW's if you buy the same amount.
Hell to the yes.
CAPTCHA: hisgott atrocious

>> No.21537538

Looking good!
Pray tell how you did the Nurgle skin?

>> No.21537657

Prime white, then wash with your primary color. Then just build up layers via washing. Greens I wash green twice, then pick out areas to look gross and wash purple and brown, then paint the details, I need to finish them off soon with a gloss varnish to make them appear slimy and gross. They all start off like this

>> No.21537824

Thank you ever so much!
I've always wanted to do Nurgle demons and now you planted the seeds of painting in my mind, farewell whether you may fare good sire.

>> No.21539019

Just grab a model and have at it, and if you don't like it just strip that sucker back and try again

>> No.21539194

Just painted this. Couldn't resize. Posted from phone

>> No.21539226

From back

>> No.21539353


>> No.21539364

Rolled 84

Not a bad shot from your cell phone. Resized for the Bro-seph. :)

>> No.21539494

in hind sight i really wish i had an airbrush for an awesome sword effect, but poverty makes me paint worse.

>> No.21539513

only thing the airbrush does is make it quicker, alot quicker.

>> No.21539565

i'm pretty crappy at blending the dark blue, a lighter blue and a white. haven't found a good and even technique through dry brushing and painting

>> No.21539616

any tips?

>> No.21539644


I know it's the model, but... This is all I can think of.

>> No.21539689

here one i did with my airbrush the other day, 1st time doing it and i did 10 of them so fast.

for you just use pretty watery paint to get the blend and start at white might be easier

>> No.21539794

heres the head with my crappy cam, but for this i mixed snakebite leather to bleached bone for the horns keep it watery it blends nicer. Then to get the blend on the head to the red i used watered down dark flesh on the bottom of the horn to the head and used scorched brown in the dark deeper bits.

>> No.21539946

totally forgetting wet palette aswell, make one seriously it helped me so much, keeps paints perfect for ages. mine is just a sponge in a tub of water with a sheet of baking paper ontop

>> No.21540277

GW always paints them a different colour, however I find this only works if it's a brighter colour (more noticeable) than the carapace e.g. Leviathan's red claws and purple carapace. I don't think it looks good when the difference is a darker colour e.g. Behemoth and their dark grey claws, they look boring and ill fitting with the rest of the model.

>> No.21540722

>GW always paints them a different colour, however I find this only works if it's a brighter colour (more noticeable) than the carapace e.g. Leviathan's red claws and purple carapace. I don't think it looks good when the difference is a darker colour e.g. Behemoth and their dark grey claws, they look boring and ill fitting with the rest of the model.

So.... what color do you recommend?

>> No.21541880

What you're using will look really great. Not the same guy but that is my opinion.

>> No.21541927


Until it's time to clean it, then that's a 10min process (unless you have a crappy single-action external mix).

>> No.21541954

Thoughts guys?

>> No.21542322

ouch on the "power" sword, , but alot of metallic look to it. not bad.

>> No.21542365


Yea "free-hand" is where I fail. I am probably going to hit the sword with some rubbing alcohol and redo it. Any advice on power swords/weapons?

>> No.21542471

i started with a very thin paint brush, with a general like of white streaking kind of light lightning up, then a light blue and several dark blue marks admist the light blue like the energy is stemmed from it. but not my last attempt at it too lazy to get out camera.

>> No.21542507

So then my other model... not quite up to date started to do some highlighting after this picture.

>> No.21542578

FUCK I ONLY GOT 2 LEFT. I still have 4 Baal Red though so it is somewhat better.

>> No.21542589

I cracked my last one the other night so sad man.

>> No.21542611

Most recent mini

>> No.21542716

Why does the sword look so warped and sad?

>> No.21542718

I'm new to 40k. I've had a chaos battleforce for 2 years and I havnt started because I'm afraid to paint. I dont want my models to looks shitty. What should I do /tg/?

>> No.21542733

paint we all have to start somewhere anon.

>> No.21542783

Buy some simple green, paint, strip, paint, strip, etc.
Practice practice practice.
Also read tutorials and watch videos.

>> No.21542819

It's a six year old model it has seen some dropping and poor care before I owned it. Also it is metal.

>> No.21542821

trying to paint is the best way to learn to paint, look up some tutorials on youtube, and try. no crap your first couple models will look like shit. until you figure out washing and right paint amount and which brushes to use for highlighting and such.

Paint your most basic units first, so that way nothing lost and you dont feel shitty about not going about and touching them up right away.

TL;DR Watch Videos. Try

>> No.21543850


You can also say you're new at a local GW and get a test model to try your painting on.

Sadly this art is a skill, and you will start out with a lot of mistakes; but you WILL get better, especially if you try to improve.

I don't try to improve, and my technique's gotten WAY better; my new new stuff is pretty damned good for how little I try. If you put effort in, results will come, that's an immutable law. Don't be afraid to make mistakes remember: "experience is simply the name we give our mistakes"

Don't be afraid of mistakes! If you can stand criticism, whether anonymously or in person, expose yourself, if you can't, work until you're satisfied with your effort. But you need to try, there's no way around that.

We want to see your work tomorrow, so get to it! :D

>> No.21544431

Shame these guys are borderline useless as elites, they're amazingly fun to paint. Plenty of details and junk everywhere.

Seriously just let the next ork dex have krak stikkbombs, that'll be all I want...

>> No.21544489

And from behind.

Also realizing fenris grey is too bright to highlight my black. Any suggestions on what to use?

>> No.21544535

Try ad mech gray 3:1 with abbadon black

Should look pretty great.

>> No.21544578

i just stick through some car window cleaner till it doesnt spray colour anymore, only need to properly clean it once a month which just involves taking it apart and leaving it in the windowcleaner overnight

>> No.21544593

Will do.

Also these Killa Kans I finished earlier this week.
Performed spectacularily bad in their first outing but at least they were fun.
Odd that my first marine was that one on the base.

>> No.21544602

Stomp stomp fwoosh

>> No.21544605

nope although it looks like a marine I helped a kid make on beginner day. Would not leave the model alone to cure for 20 minutes came out looking like the assault marine from asspy villed

>> No.21544652


>> No.21544681

I haven't had a chance to field this guy yet.

>> No.21544684

>> No.21544691

>> No.21544698

If I could get kans for under 30$ it'd be worth it to make tripplekan.

And as a graphic example of how bad they performed on their first fight, the leader with the grotzooka fired onto a command squad. It scattered back directly on top of the entire mob and they all lost a hull point, killing one of them and blocking my own advance.

>> No.21544708

Latest model.

>> No.21544712

>> No.21544724

>> No.21544733

>> No.21544748

>> No.21544761

Besides basing, does anyone have any advice for what I have posted?

>> No.21544776

Making scenery just now, in between harlequin deliveries. 40k meets Emmerdale.

> Needs to go out and steal more pebbles from the church.

>> No.21544787


>> No.21544838

I dig the face. Seriously. I'm going to have to do a unit or two like that.

>> No.21544865

Base Scaly Green, highlight Scorpid Green.

>> No.21544984

I like them. Very characterful. If you wanted your highlights and gradients to be smoother, take more time over them using more thinner layers, but honestly I like them looking a little textured and you won't notice on the tabletop anyway.

>> No.21545041

This. Don't worry too much about stuff you're going to play with - people will bounce dice off them, they'll get messed around with in transport, and you'll aggravate yourself to no end.

I think your stuff looks fine.

>> No.21545052

You still need to get a better grasp of some basic concepts of painting. Your minis either look pretty dirty (for example, this >>21544733) or so dark and without proper contrast (for example, this >>21544691).

Try to think more carefully how lights and shadows work when it comes to your highlighting/shading: what color should the highlight/shade be and how big is the highlighted/shaded area going to be? Most of the time you do pretty well, but sometimes you make pretty bad decisions: what are you trying to do with the vomit yellow highlights in >>21544724 or the jacket in >>21544733? Especially the torso part in the latter is very lacking, even though I can see that you weren't aiming for a realistic result.

That being said, what were you trying to achieve with that mini? It's mostly blue, but its hand is for some reason of other colour. I like experimenting, but you just don't really pull it off in this one, the viewer can't tell what you're trying to tell with your mini. The sloppy paint job in the blue part doesn't really help.


>> No.21545056

Also, don't always shade with black or the color of basecoat mixed with black. It usually makes your minis look either dirty or just boring. This is where you have to do a bit experimenting and research to find out the best colors to shade each color. Same goes for highlights and the use of white (though this wasn't really a problem with your minis).

Your metals seem too dark or flat. Try to start with a lighter paint and use washes to shade, then paint again with metal paints and then shade again until it looks good. Or find some other technique, that's just how I do it.

Of course, you could always use the brush more carefully, to paint with thinner paints and make smoother blends, but this can be said to pretty much anyone, here at least. These get better with practice.

>>21544724 this guy's jacket (at least for the part under waist) looks good, at least from what I can say from that picture. The shades aren't too big and you haven't highlighted the basic red much, which is a good decision. Highlighted red tends to lead to pinkish or yellowish results.


>> No.21545068

And if it isn't completely obvious, I'm not trying to be a dick or anything here, just trying to give you some tips so that you could improve your painting (since that's what you want, right?). On tabletop your minis are just fine, but I'm sure you can do better with a bit of practice!

>> No.21545286

No problem. No offense taken.
For Gorman I was kind of in a rush to get him done so I understand what you are saying. He does have a weird shine that wasn't there before I sealed the mini though. Same thing happened with how much texture is on Ossrum, that black armored dwarf. I'm getting used to this new sealer I've found. One coat seems to give better results.

That high light on the red pistol wraith is actually a green glow attempt at OSL. First time shows how badly I need to practice that. The one in with its arms in an L shape is supposed to be it going from non-solid to exposing just enough of itself into the physical plain to fire a shot.

Thanks for the feed back. If I work on something similar I'll try to keep this in mind.

>> No.21547878

You're going to a special kind of hell.

>> No.21547982

stop being a faggot and lurk the fuck moar

>> No.21551148

whats the problem?, it works lol even if it didnt the airbrush only cost £15 but it does, it works great and its like £1 for a litre of the stuff

>> No.21551164


>archer vector

Holy shit go die in a fucking fire.

>> No.21551240

Are you using GW's airbrush-pistol?

>> No.21551286

i can not stand how dumb his sword looks. wish i can get my hands on a forge world abaddon

>> No.21551345

skaven engineer.

>> No.21551360 [DELETED] 

An ogre I made over a year ago but only just started painting recently, I have no idea what colour to paint the skin or the mask so I've just stopped again

>> No.21551382

how come no one does their own custom painting?

also cygnar confirmed for awesomest jacks?

>> No.21551416

what do you mean custom painting?
I think everyone has a custom painting style?

>> No.21551423

Abaddon looks dumb in all senses. It's an old model after all.

>> No.21551476

How do you achieve that green tint on the back of the dome? Looks beautiful

>> No.21551478

err thats no aibrush thats spray and cover everything with no control, is the bd-132, it has a control screw thing at the back that sets the maximum you can pull the dual action thing back so that makes it very easy to keep it under control.

When i was looking and asking about for airbrush advice everyone was like get a like £80 one but i was like fk it try this is it sucks no matter it will cover good and save a load of time but it does good lines etc. So yeah i got another 1 same range but a 0.2mm nozzle havent used it yet but i cant see why it would be bad, that was £20.

And yeah abadon looks a bit stupid i realised that when i was painting him and i would get the forgeworld one but he is pretty dam expensive now :(

>> No.21551526

>Not a single advice to thin your paint

The /tg/ I know is dead...

>> No.21551541

use water

>> No.21551582

Not Op but i made use of that thanks

>> No.21551651

a helpful paint thread omg, we must fix this.
close one

>> No.21551695

any recomendations for a airbrush + compressor for maximum price of 250$?

>> No.21551775

honestly the airbrushes that i know as far as quality and most air compressors you going to be hard pressed to find a good deal unless you ebay, craigslist, or pawn shop.

>> No.21551797

Iawata has some really nice airbrushes.

>> No.21551820

i really like Iawata the type im looking at runs about 100$ by itself and the air compressor, well those are not cheap.

>> No.21551853

I think he means "custom colour scheme"

Warmachine players usually stick to the basic box schemes, which is unfortunate. I can't really complain though, since my local haunt (although I don't play) has a good variety of colour schemes.

>> No.21551874

Yeah that's what I meant.
Blue for cygnar, red for khador, etc etc
are yours white or is that supposed to be snow/ice?

>> No.21551880

needs a new one. or just a make over

>> No.21551903


Here's a snow cygnar that is being worked on.

>> No.21551936

White. They've got red accents, but the primary colour is white.

Need to grab some more cork and get around to basing these guys, they've been like this for a couple months..

>> No.21552067

Is it strictly GW/PP paintthread? Cause I finished a bunch of 15mm dudes and I'm rather proud of them- they had a lot of detail for that scale, and look rather nice in group I think. Still getting the hang of highlighting at that small a scale.

>> No.21552098

You think the snow/ice effect would look good on standard Khador red?

>> No.21552125

share 'em if you got 'em

>> No.21552234

Bases? Sure.

Scattered onto armour? No, probably not.

>> No.21552285


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