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[ERROR] No.20837883 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

wip and painting thread! Also i made this guardsmen, what stats, or special rules should he get. Im thinking draigo's rules (he is also a wip)

>> No.20837897

>> No.20837916

He negates the effects of Hatred for enemy units.

>> No.20837926

That Guardsman seems to give no fucks.

Counts as Creed I'd say.

>> No.20837965

>> No.20839037 [DELETED] 

bump for more wip

>> No.20839097

>> No.20842016


>> No.20842265

Special rule he appears out of the warp and all haters kill them selves

>> No.20842817


>> No.20843691

That motherfucker needs to be used as marbo.

Pops up "haters gonna hate!". 1 demo charge later, there's a smoking crater where the haters once stood.

I have a company commander posed like this. I love using him because he always gets a chuckle out of my opponent

>> No.20844184


Hey I could use some advise as a beginning painter myself. I am getting into minatures and thus painting. I am getting the materials I need to start this week; just some stuff on the cheap to practice "painting in the lines" and techniques. I need a bottle of back paint as to make black wash. Readily, I can get dropper bottle of Vallejo Model Color or a pot of Citedal. I would have to order a dropper bottle of Reaper. Is there any major noticable difference in the paints? Already being in a dropper bottle is a plus for the Reaper and Vallejo. But is Citedal just better to go with?

>> No.20844224

>> No.20844231

>> No.20844676

Prowler from Infinity. The helmet stripe turned out better than I expected. I like the new Citadel Glazes.

>> No.20845339


>> No.20846342


>> No.20849338

This guy looks rad. Really digging the blue glow.

>> No.20849421

Do tell, haven't had a chance to try them yet.

>> No.20853546

Blue Glaze over white, it's helped out by my lighting, but it looks good on the tabletop.
I like putting all of them over white for all of my "glowy" colors. I do power weapons with them. All of my visors in Infinity and eye lenses on my Marines.

>> No.20855170


>> No.20855890

Anybody have a good tutorial for modelling fire?

>> No.20855945

To me it looks like a messenger running with important papers in the bag.

>> No.20856027

This thread was done in the first OP post. Everyone go home.

>> No.20856642

>> No.20856677 [DELETED] 

My Malal colour scheme but with berzerkers.

It works kinda. Bases arms etc etc need doing.

>> No.20856690

Fuck yeah, you pulled off those two difficult colours really well.

>> No.20856713

Mat Ward says: this is a combat monster - there's no other way to describe him. He's lethal against non-daemonic foes, with plenty of Strength 5 force weapon attacks to lay a beat down. When faced with hated Daemons, his Titansword becomes Strength 10, ensuring a pretty one-sided fight in his favour. Even if his enemy survives, this guy's storm shield is sure to keep him fighting. And on top of all of this, this guy is a Grand Master, able to bestow extra abilities on his allies. Want your Dreadknight to capture objectives? Draigo can make that happen. Want a Scouting screen of Dreadnoughts? this guy can make it happen. He's the best possible way to keep your opponent on his toes.

>> No.20856739


+1 to this

Run him as Creed or as Kaldor Draigo

>> No.20856904

hagefle this

>> No.20858283

WIP stolen idea from a guard thread on dakka. going to greenstuff a greatcoat on to him.. already started but it needs to be longer.

>> No.20858324

>Smiling space pirate.png

>> No.20858353

Converting a terminator chaplain into Mordrak the GK HQ, not a complicated conversion, just threw the GK termie arms on him. Still gotta paint the fine details.

>> No.20859502

Would it be madness to add musicians to my guard army?

kind of a thin red line motive, marching slowly towards the enemy.. while getting obliterated

>> No.20859860

Bump cause that is what I am doing a just finished a drummer might post pics tommorow if this tread services, I use him as a body guard but kinda useless sense I use conscripts:p

>> No.20859891

Sorry for the errors doing this on a mobile and it autocorrects

>> No.20859894


But nah, I like them. I'm also doing a purple base on my Eldar, but with light blue/bronze accents.

>> No.20859990

just finished batch of vietnam-esque Military buildings for my IG outpost, now let the Zombies from the abandoned K13 founding city come at us!

>> No.20860944

Can we come? We have ciggys and Ace of spades cards.

>> No.20860970

You'd better add musicians to your guard army.
You'd freaking BETTER do it, bro.

>> No.20861570


Kewl, my catachan sarge has malboro's on his arm

>> No.20863603


At least I know how I should make the root system.

Wild Riders based on the Dryad models. Sorry about the messy shoop.

>> No.20865843


>> No.20866381

YEAH! I can see it.. that'll look good. Now make it.... or Die.

>> No.20866648

In the process of making an army of these

>> No.20866730

I like black.. but painting it is annoying. are you going to paint black then trim with grey? or blend in grey like in the pic?

>> No.20866764

I am working on a tau army with an urban theme. Any suggestions?

>> No.20866776

Probably going to Trim with a light Grey

>> No.20866782


>> No.20866791

Also here are the bases I have been working on. Do you think they fit?

>> No.20866814

They seem pretty cool

>> No.20866827


Can't use ranged weaponry in close quarters, which is what urban tends to imply.

>> No.20866831

Suggestions? Keep up the good work?
Maybe gothic them up a bit.

>> No.20866879

Stealth suits reporting!

>> No.20866881


Urban Tau would use carbines, but carbines < rifles in the new edition

>> No.20866902



>> No.20866935

I'd blend greys if I were you (charadon granite being the highest you go). It looks much more natural than pure black IMO.

>> No.20866957

is purple an eldar favourite? i've got black base (covers up my shitty painting better) with purple and light blue as the highlights.

>> No.20867001

and the pic I stole the idea from.

>> No.20867071


Wow. Monster thread. Cheers for the interesting material!

>> No.20867695

Hey guys I am doing digital camo for tau and I am not sure which color scheme to use. Which do you think is the best?

>> No.20867749

it depends, what do you want, City fight or Savannah fight?

>> No.20867760

Paint them neon blue

>> No.20867809

My urban camo guard use dark grey base, light grey, blue grey, and white blobs, digital camo is going to be a pain
I don't remember what colors and i'll post pics later

>> No.20867833

The digital camo is just going to be on my tanks. It really isn't that hard. The picture cam out bad because I was rushing (I did it in like 10 minutes and didn't thin paints or wait for them to dry completely) I would really be doing it with a airbrush to get full coverage.

>> No.20867839


>> No.20868095

Still a WIP and admittedly not my best work, but it's still fun non the less.

>> No.20868190

just gotta find my camera.

>> No.20868194

That is some nice soft tones right there. >>20863603

>> No.20868337

sorry for the shitty phone pictures

>> No.20868338

Just edge highlighted the armour and I think that alone makes it look miles better.

>> No.20868351

Thanks. Hopefully but the next thread I'll have a unit including a counts-as Noble on a Stag and a counts-as Spellweaver on a unicorn.

>> No.20868393


>> No.20868404

the pictures look even worse than i thought they would...

>> No.20868451

If your at-home board is gothic grey buildings then the grey, if the board is a Wild West or those hacienda/Those Cliff-Dweller type of place then the oranges/reds.

I think the oranges/reds looks awesome in a digital theme. If I had a clean slate then I'd make a board similar to pic.

>> No.20868456

Rolled 8

Finishing up Draigo. Shitty pics, sweet model.

Any advice on the force sword and lettering on the banner and the script on purity seals? This is my first marine model and I've never had to do anything like that before.

>> No.20868476

fuck why do my fucking pictures always look so bad compared to the models

>> No.20868489

Because it magnifies everything over ten times, mistakes and all.

>> No.20868493

I feel that, but the model it self looks like it looks good

>> No.20868514

there are a million little fucking black areas where the paint didnt stick jesus tits this is like a closeup of a supermodel's face where you can see all the blackheads and nasty hairs and shit

>> No.20868599

on the plus side champ.. his eyes look very glowy.

>> No.20868645

Thanks, man. Ironically they took me all of two minutes to do, since I was just kind of blocking in colors to see how the finished model would look. I guess the washes sat just right and I kept it.

The banner took me a couple of hours, and it's the ting I'm least proud of. It took so long because I'm just going balls-to-the-wall with the whole "thin your paints" thing. I think the armor itself has nine or ten layers of silver alone, then the blue and brown and brown-black and silver highlights again probably put it around twenty.

>> No.20868677

I'm glad this exists.

>> No.20868684

This is why memes are cancer. It's equally, if not more detrimental to your model if you over dilute your paint, you should thin it to the point where it still covers very well, but wont leave any visible brush strokes. Thinning paint to a 'milky consistency' is some of the biggest bullshit advice out there.

>> No.20868775

I agree that I went a little overboard but there are some spots where the difference is really noticable, like on purity seals and the shading between the raised lettering. Three or four layers would probably have done just as well for most of the model. I'm using his as a test while I wait for more models to be shipped to me, so regardless of what was necessary or not I think I learned a lot on him and I can't wait for my dreadnaughts to come in. (hooray forgeworld!)

>> No.20868812

It's always good to learn something, and I do agree that many thin layers do look extremely effective, however for me there's too much room for error, and I'd rather layer on four or so colours, and achieve something of similar effect.

>> No.20868845

What are the vagina looking things in this picture? I don't have a Tyranid Codex available to look at, and all I remember there being are toxin sacs and adrenal glands...

>> No.20868850

Adrenal glands, I think. They're upside down.

>> No.20868872

Oh... then... those things I thought were the adrenal glands must be... armor plates? Is that what those tiny bits are?

>> No.20868890

The little ones are toxin sacs.

>> No.20868901

Looks less like running and more like casually strolling through a battlefield.

>> No.20868974

Only just started putting together a 40k. First model I've painted in over 7 years probably.

>> No.20868992

Please tell me you aren't painting over straight resin

>> No.20869009


Nah I do a thin undercoat on the areas I'm working and proceed from there, I don't like using spray paint can never get it even enough. I also paint them with oils.

>> No.20869175

Oops, I meant
>Is that what those things with the tiny bits are?
Messed that one up, big.

>> No.20869608

Question: What is /tg/'s opinion on cheaper, hobby-oriented paints at Hobby Lobby such as the Americana brand?

>> No.20869799

Workin on my chaos demons. Trying to stay simple and fast for table top quality. This is the first of my tzeentch "bloodletters".

>> No.20870367

Fine for large work

>> No.20870870

Well bras, I HAD an awesome idea for a kitbash... ordered all my bits and everything in my excitement. Fast forward a few weeks to the present, and I finally get my bits... but nope.
None of it fits together in any way.
My dreams are shattered.
I will never bash a kit.

>> No.20870993


use the power of greenstuff and plasticard with these kitbits.. fix your dream.

>> No.20871123

Brother tell me more

>> No.20871645

I am new to the miniatures (and painting scene). Could you elaborate?

>> No.20871768

Well, it's not just fitting. It's sizes. Necron heads are about half the size I expected.

It was a fairly simple thing. I was going to mix Necron bits with Gretchin bits for... some kind of result. In my head it looked amazing, skull-faced Grots with warscythes and necron swords...
Because of the size of the Necron heads, though...

Why not greenstuff some skull heads?

>> No.20873296

Q: What are you attempting to kitbash?

Q2: Are you playing orkz?

Q2b: If not, why the fuck not?

Kitbashing orkz with everything is just fun.

>> No.20873580

got some more kitbashin stuff I've been doin.

>> No.20873591

And last and most recent

>> No.20873594

latest thing i painted

>> No.20873604


Guy you posted that like two weeks ago.

You're highlighting wrong. Your guy looks like an anime vomited him out.

>> No.20873634

How'd you change the pauldrons?

>> No.20873675

Knife. Pauldrons are the same though, i've simply cut off the DA symbol. tough to get smooth (which is to say I didn't, entirely) but its not overly obvious

>> No.20873678


This looks gorgeous


You're a moron, he filed down the DA symbols and plasticard over them

>> No.20873730

Another picture from a different angle would have been good. Thanks for answering, though.

>> No.20873850

well at that point, the pauldrons didn't look all that great, so i was minimizing focus on them. Look beter now that i've worked more on them and put on transfers

>> No.20873925

My first red scorpion! Just finished him up. Thinking he could use some spice, maybe a red panel on the bolter (where it's black)? Also, waiting for transfers from FW.

>> No.20873942

>> No.20873955

>> No.20873960

might i suggest you try your hand at highlighting? Black or dark colours in particular benefit from it since the black(dark)ness typically swallow up details otherwise

>> No.20874001

you know, i sorta tried to do a drybrush highlight (works on rhinos) and it left me hangin kinda. Gonna try real edge highlighting, but afraid i'll fuck up the model so far

>> No.20874056

Highlighting is important, but I think scaling and cropping the image would be nicer.

>> No.20874063

I'd also try to clean up that yellow trim on the shoulder pad.

Just a little bit

>> No.20874203

Eh, you'll be fine even if the highlights are a little messy. If you just want an army on the table quick then I wouldn't bother. You can always do the final highlights later on once you have more practice with the brush, but you shouldn't be afraid to try your hand at it.

But I would recommend sorting out the cropping and scaling of your images.

>> No.20874210

I just finished the organ pipes and some kit bashing to the gunner to give him a decent head and a sword. Its for and csm emperors children army, I think ill add a sex slave on the next one... Tomorrow ill sand, touch up, and prime this.

>> No.20876300

its a natural part of edge highlighting that you make your stuff too thick and have to correct. in fact calling it 'correcting' is almost misleading as its more of an expected step2

>> No.20877669

I like.

>> No.20877681

Wow, very nice, do you have any close-ups?

>> No.20878058


>> No.20880059

Made some progress, however these pictures are very demoralizing, they enlarge everything, making each mistake and imperfection a heck of a lot more noticeable. Ah well, I'm sure they'd look alright at the correct scale.

>> No.20880796

Resized to almost tabletop size... guessing.
I'd post my own pics but all I have is old stuff.. that i've spammed this board with for to long.

>> No.20881311

I like it. How did you do the red?

>> No.20882010

So my question is how do off brand acrylic paints do for modeling? You know, mid-quality paints that are actually meant for canvas? I asked a guy at my LGS and he said that it all depended on how finely ground the color pigments were.

>> No.20882038

Not too well. Usually you need to thin them down quite a bit, and even then their actual quality varies.

You can definitely make them work, but you'll need to experiment and work out the kinks, first.

>> No.20882068

Alright, thanks. I figured that it wouldn't be the best course of action but I can't seem to force myself to pay $6 for 6oz (I think, not a whole lot weather I'm right or wrong) of one color of paint.

>> No.20882173

Thank you, I first started with a basecoat of mechrite red over a white undercoat (very important), then I washed with devlan mud/any brown wash, layered on a mix of mechrite and blood red before a final layer of blood red. In itself this doesn't look too great, I feel that edge highlighting is really necessary to make this look work, and so I began mixing blood red with an orange, roughly 50/50, and edge highlighted most edges, then I went back with a higher ratio of orange to red mix and only hit the more prominent edges, still considering going back with a pure orange, as I did with this model (sorry about this, I seem to post it so much).

>> No.20882230

I forgot to mention, if you're looking for a really bright red, I recommend starting with a base that's as close as possible to the final colour you want (mephiston red over mechrite/khorne), as this reduces the number of coats you'll need to apply (it's surprising, what with the sheer numbers of thin red coats you need to apply to achieve a solid colour, how quickly the layers build up).

Also, thanks for the re-size, makes me feel much better about the whole thing.

>> No.20883735

You could paint a Ferrari.

I've made the root base for 6 Wild Riders. Just need to get the Dryad bodies on. Figured I'd do the Noble on a Stag and a caster on a Unicorn once I've worked out the kinks with the rank and file. Looks pretty messy now, especially in the photo, but I think it'll work.

>> No.20883895

here is some of my finished minis

>> No.20883912

>> No.20884002

I'll go ahead and post some IF's I've been working on.

First off, Captain Lysander. I haven't put him on a proper base yet.

>> No.20884119

Second, the closest thing to complete sp far.

>> No.20884139

A couple more not-so complete marines...

>> No.20884198

One day I hope to have blending as nice as yours. Great eyes too.

>> No.20884292

--And a couple of Beakies for good measure.

Thanks! I used a rather cheap airbrush set for this. It takes a lot of the toil out of painting yellow.

>> No.20884322

Why would you paint the plasma coils yellow on yellow marines? I mean they already look yellow, there's no contrast.

>> No.20884609

was I insane changing the top scheme to the bottom scheme?

>> No.20884629

I'll dump some

>> No.20884633


>> No.20884642

I want to post my entire army but I'm way too high right now
I mean I'll do it if asked

>> No.20884650

some of my plaguebearers. The Plaguebearers of the Black Plague

>> No.20884664

Not at all. Green may be dull, but it makes a lot of sense for most regiments.

>> No.20884667

Also my Bloodthirster converted from a Balrog.

>> No.20884680

Hi how high are you high how are you hi how high high how?

>> No.20884692

Yeah, the old color scheme has more character to it. Green is overdone.

>> No.20884711

My Horrors of Tzeentch.

>> No.20884712



>> No.20884728

I don't know if anyone is being sarcastic or sincere anymore.

>> No.20884729

And one of my Bloodcrushers

>> No.20884733

I haven't painted them blue yet. Like I said, they're unfinished.

>> No.20884736

How do you mean?

>> No.20884748


I like the black and red contrast, awesome

>> No.20884757

And some Bloodletters. Same color scheme as the rider of the Bloodcrusher of course.

>> No.20884759

Oh shit here we go

>> No.20884760

>tfw nobody compliments me

>> No.20884777


The gold reminds me of Grendals mother of beowulf and those bases are fucking sick brah

>> No.20884792


Post a picture and i'll give you constructie critisism

>> No.20884801

And my Soul Grinder of course.

>> No.20884818

And thank you for all the support man! Means a lot.

>> No.20884826

No, you're not crazy. Now my SWAT Guard are a little more unique.

>> No.20884834

They are horrors of Tzeentch that are in MLP colors. Is the statement that MLP is a horror of Tzeentch or is the guy a fan of MLP? Fuck if I know and Fuck if I care. I just know that those paints could be thinned down a little bit more for better detail.

>> No.20884894

Swat guard!? try
these and pic related
Track guards for riot shields.
note: these have been painted and are less spidery now

>> No.20884895

Balrgo bloodthirster, eh? So would you say he's a... Balthirster?

>> No.20884978

Much as I like that, I'm still a beginner. And I like the standard flak armor look.

Here's the Sergeant to make your eyes bleed a bit.

>> No.20885032

I don't know if I like the shield or not. I'm trying to go for a bit of am Egyptian theme.

>> No.20885051

thats fairly good, no paint from one area on another area. attempted weathering. only thing I dislike is the basing.. but if thats waiting to be painted, disregard.

>> No.20885101

why not go with Blue instead of that green.. be better contrast.

>> No.20885129

That's actually "completed". Used black as the base for the whole model then painted additional layers on the armor. I then drybrushed/painted then finger smudged silver to show wear on the armor.

It shows up better on other models and on the side of the Sergeant.

>> No.20885431

Does look better. I'm lucky I had that blue here.

>> No.20885493

I'll be checking my mail later in the week... for my check.

>> No.20885519

you should paint them so their armour looks like faience, if you're going for an egyptian theme.

>> No.20885577

reminds me of that awesome thounsand sons army, has kroot converted into jackal men one of the dreds has a mummy coming out of it, another was has a sarcophagus front.

>> No.20885611

I'm trying to avoid looking like Thousand Sons.

>> No.20885779

And some more Plaguebearers. In more normal colors this time around.

>> No.20886065


>> No.20886182


>> No.20886288


you call that yellow?

if you are airbrushing it you have no excuses

>> No.20886323

But I already did
I was the khornate daemon prince, vindicator and landr aider.

>> No.20886389

And my Daemon Prince. Extra arms added on. And all the heads are magnetized so he can switch heads depending on how he feels.

>> No.20886419

They're very spiky. However the pictures are a little blurry to make out to much detail. But I kinda like the super spikyness.

>> No.20886421

I think they come into the category of "can't see shit captain"

>> No.20886545

He's a bit older. I'm starting to not be too proud of him anymore.

>> No.20886560

was in the Aussie whitewarf issue no 327 Matthew Cleaver was the guys name.. found him at http://www.area52.com.au/galleries/gallery_index.htm
dunno if his armies in there.. sorry D:

>> No.20888995

Can someone help me? I've just bought GW inks for the first time in nearly 8 years, and the product has changed.
The guy at the store told me that I don't need to water the new ones down. Is this true? While I feel like he was probably correct, my better sense of judgement tells me not to trust a word GW says when it comes to this shit.

>> No.20889242


dont need to but if youre paranoid, after taking in ink from the bottle just dip in in water

>> No.20889332

They're pretty much just paint+glaze medium, rather than an actual glossy ink. -very- different from the old inks (personally, I preferred the inks).

You don't need to water them down (and it's much thinner than when you did the same with an ink), but it's not a bad idea either. Treat them as you would a glaze. Because that's what they are.

I suggest finding an old, junk model to test them out on. They take some getting used to.

>> No.20889388

So I need some help with color choices.

I'm made a Chaos wizard type guy based on pic related, with some appropriate bitz work (like a giant fucking dagger where I shaved off the twin-tailed comet).

The idea being that this guy's a Chaos Sorceror (in the "isn't a psyker but knows the runes and incantations" sense) whose job is to help summon Daemons. Like, if Bloodletters are needed, he's got that dagger to slit throats while chanting praises to Khorne, or he could read from his scrolls to get Daemons of Tzeentch to show up. Potion bottles might contain Space Cocaine or Space Aids to summon Daemons of the other Gods.

For tabletop purposes, he'd count as a Comms Relay when playing Daemons or CSM with Daemon allies (or the other way around), probably while standing in/around an altar or a giant Chaos star.

The problem is I don't know what color scheme to do for his robes. Red or black are the most obvious for Chaos Undivided, but I already have a ton of dudes using those colors. And brown is more for the cultist rabble.

TL;DR anybody got good pictures of Word Bearers or other Chaos Undivided guys who aren't wearing too much red or black? (muted red and grey seems like one extremely feasible option - sort of pre-Heresy or during-Heresy Word Bearers)

>> No.20889556

Sorry, I don't have the pictures you want, but I was just wondering if you painted his rainbow colour-wheel belt-buckle as the eight pointed Chaos Undivided symbol.

>> No.20889575

Finished this badboy yesterday. It's the first one of 500p Chaos Mutants with some Marines I guess. Not sure about the base yet, I think I'll stick to a simple desert-style with citadel texture

>> No.20889579

Dayum son, that looks freaking sweet.

>> No.20889590

flaws I know about and may or may not fix:
>The shine of the shade I used for the bone-shoulder
>the grenades on his back, maybe I'll paint them red, yellow or black or even brown

>> No.20889612


I'm leaving it alone pretty much, since they're so similar. the one on his back got a generic chaos star from the decorative bitz for chaos vehicles.

it'll probably end up red or orange-ish. and obviously not a rainbow. or maybe quartered or alternating colors based on the four gods. (Khorne - red and brass, Slaanesh - purple and gold or silver, Nurgle - green and brown, Tzeentch - blue and pink)

>> No.20889800

Can you show me some professional painted minis?
I don't play qith minis, but i'm a painter and am curious.

>> No.20889942

I don't know what /tg/ thinks of it, but I would recommend to check "cool mini or not".

>> No.20890013

>Imperial Aquila above the Icon of Khorne
>Imperial Aquila on Land Raider treads
shiggy fuckin' diggy imperial corpse-worshipper

>> No.20890066

Reflecting the glow of the sword on the mini, that's fucking genius. And it's really well done.

Thanks, that has really good quality painting.

>> No.20890318

Finishing up the basing on my Spartan Phalanx. After that I'll need to stick some more white hands on their gear.

>> No.20892446

'Ere is Da Red Gobbo, leader of da Grot Revolushun!

A guy at my LGS just gave this figure to me out of a box of random bits he found in his attic. I told him Red Gobbo goes for $40 to $60 online. The one he gave me was new in package. He tells me to keep it anyway as long as I wasn't selling it. I hope the paintjob does the little guy justice.

>> No.20892469

Here's the back of his coat. Looks like he looted it off of a rogue trader. The detailing was nice for an older metal mini. I like the dynamic pose and knife cutting through his back pocket.

>> No.20892470

I'd say, looks good. Probably better if the picture wasn't blurry.

>> No.20892571

The camera I'm using is shit for macro. I'll be getting some cash in at the end of the month and plan on getting a new digital camera with it. Any suggestions?

>> No.20893146

Painting Vladimir von Finecastein. This was before priming.

>> No.20893153

This is it right now. Sory about the greenish background.

>> No.20893163

I'm trying to paint the fur. I don't like the result.

>> No.20893294

I think the fur is ok, maybe you should have highlighted with a darker color.
I like his skincolor, how did you paint it?

>> No.20893430

It's just a basecoat of Dheneb Stone with a wash of Badab Black, then a light wash of Leviathan Purple to get the dead skin look. It still needs highlights.

>> No.20893721

The fur's great, it's infinitely better to give such a textured surface overly stark highlights and retain detail, than to highlight with a dull colour and loose all of the texture.

>> No.20894701

Yes this is awesome, Its amazing what colours uruk look good in. colour me impressed.

>> No.20895094

Anybody here have links to some decent tutorials for a beginner painter ?

>> No.20895129




Also, youtube, coolminiornot and google.

>> No.20895172

>want to get this beautiful color when painting reds
>always prime black
B-But I hate white primer.

>> No.20895356

I feel that, but tbh black primer is lazy man primer.

>> No.20895414

Yeah, that is why I dislike non-black. All the crevasses that I want black are usually hard to get to and takes a lot of work to fill in all those areas.
I also generally like going dark to light while painting.

>> No.20895452

are you me?

>> No.20895769

>dark to light while painting.
And you can't do that with white priming because...?

Actually, black priming is good only if you want to build shadows. Sadly, nearly all who use black priming then use it as if it were white priming, even going as far as covering all the priming with a solid color, making it all absurd.

>> No.20895823 [DELETED] 

>dark to light while painting.
And you can't do that with white priming because...?

Actually, black priming is good only if you want to build shadows. Sadly, nearly all who use black priming then use it as if it were white priming, even going as far as covering all the priming with a solid color, making it all absurd.

Non-stop flood detection!

>> No.20896296



>> No.20897250

As strange as it is to hear, black primer is a really old fashioned way of painting. What with washes being so abundant now, any shadows you need can be made in a matter of minutes, because of this, I find it the opposite to the lazy mans primer situation, white/coloured is the lazy mans primer, black is for old men.

>> No.20897453

Dunno what you think is old man. but most of the old (80s) wargaming books they exclusively prime with white. White is usually used for light colours black for dark.. I remember this starting around the 90s in whitedwarf mags.

>> No.20897481

True, it's just that black shadows remind me of black-lining.

>> No.20897548

Anja Wettergren has a good technique undercoat black spray a few small burst of white to bring out details.

>> No.20897599

I've been wrapping up a lot of miniatures lately... A LOT. Unfortunately, I've been having the worst luck at getting the right lighting outside to take good pictures with my crap camera.

Oh well. You get what you pay for.

These are no longer WIP. They're done.

>> No.20897660

Working on this guy, heaps of fun so far

>> No.20900908

This shit is taking forever.

>> No.20904079

And done. Gonna do a simple desert base for them.
Now I have a tactical squad, a captain and a dreadnaught to do.

They look so much better in person, let me tell you...

>> No.20904091

contemptors my favourite kit ever. Dat poseability

>> No.20904442

I'm sure they do, what really makes something look good in photos is edge highlighting, why don't you try your hand at it on an old test mini, see if it's your style, it makes power armour look a hundred * better.

>> No.20904491

I've been trying different pallets of paints as i go, dark blue/red.
This is my first army, got a few fire warriors
but they are a lot worse in quality

>> No.20904524

The one of left is my friends
mine is the one on the right.
I asked him how he got the shiny surface and he couldn't tell me how, any ideas?
What do you think of the colour scheme?
(before you mention the over bright silver, I've toned that down so its not as bold)

>> No.20904625

What shiny surface?

>> No.20904674

He most likely got that dull sheen from using a different primer/different paints or from his wash. If you want to re-create it, I suggest watering down some gloss varnish and slather your model in it.

>> No.20904718

Well done. It's a pretty bad photo, the colours are totally messed up compared to your previous pics, but it's easy to tell that the models themselves are tidy and crisp.

Are you talking about matt vs semi-gloss?

>> No.20904891

Getting places with the torso and arms, but nothing looks good yet. Not worth taking a picture of. Although, I did some roses for the Caster. She's meant to have a climbing rose growing over her.

I think they are too big, but I can't make them smaller.

>> No.20904907

Its most definitely from the wash. Just try giving it a quick black was thin on the open spots heavier in the recesses

>> No.20907346

>Dem roses

>> No.20907614 [DELETED] 

Where's that post from way back? ... Ah, here: >>20884728
>I don't know if anyone is being sarcastic or sincere anymore.

>> No.20907627

Where's that post from way back? ... Ah, here: >>20884728

>> No.20907736

They look good.

>> No.20907940

last thing I painted, not a brilliant photo but oh well

>> No.20908217

Noobie question.

I'm really new to WHFB and I've got a about 10 Ogres finished now. I bought that GW seal spray stuff to protect them. And I'm wondering

1) If I spray too much of this on there, is it going to make my models look weird? i mean obviously I'm going to be using it sparingly but I don't want to spray it on and then find out it made all my models look shitty.

2) Will it fuck with the static grass on my models? because I already did the bases and I don't want those to get messed up either

pic related, it's too of my ogres

>> No.20908276

DE Executioner mockup?

>> No.20908459

There's a risk the spray could create a frosting effect, wouldn't risk it if I were you. And yes, it ruins static grass.

>> No.20908473

You'd be better off with a pot of matte varnish, or gloss first for protection, then matte for finish, although I think matte is enough.

>> No.20908779

Spray gives a smoother finish than brushing with varnish. Brushing is good if you want to give a good protection to the model, applying a pair of gloss varnish layers, and a few matt ones to remove the gloss.

You should take into consideration that varnish blurs the colors, and can make some metallics lose shine. The blur can help to give a better final result.

>> No.20908943

I think I might end up doing that, thank you. I just want to make sure I protect the paint from chipping and such, but I don't want my guys to get ridiculously shiny

>> No.20909006

Thank you.

>pelvic alsoIf
Yes, Captcha. My pelvis would be all soft for that nice anon.

>> No.20909060

You could make a mask for the base to keep the varnish off the static grass and just spray the actual model.

The frosting side effect from spray varnish is usually from extremely high humidity or something. As long as you do your research (sorry, I don't know specifics about it), or test on a spare model first, you'll (probably) be fine. There are also methods that "fix" the frosting effect.

>> No.20910017

Thanks for the input, I'm still not completely sure how to get that small sheen on my models.
I layered them from Base > Layer > Shade > Gloss
and the gloss (keep in mind, my friend was using my paints for the one on the left) does nothing to give a sheen to my models.

>> No.20910419

Gotta write this down. Mite b cool.

>> No.20911969

Okay, here's a SWAT styled Chimera I painted. Any helpful tips appreciated.

Body is braced for impact.

>> No.20911984


>> No.20912003


>> No.20912023

And finally the back hatch.

>> No.20913043

Nothing at all?

>> No.20913125

Might wanna outline your scratches with black. It'd make it look like actual scratches or paint being rubbed off instead of just metal being painted over.

>> No.20913244

Any tips on how to do that? All I can think of would be trace around it in black.

>> No.20913302

Well usually you'd paint black patches then paint the metal over it. But you can just outline it black then touch it up again with Metal.

>> No.20913422

Ah, I see. To show scorching and impact. Got it.

What about on the already black parts though? Doesn't seem like it'd work so well there.

>> No.20913490

Either leave it as is, or you can try panting in inside of it black as well.

>> No.20913516

Alright then, thanks. I've only ever added metallic scratch marks to black before, so this is a good lesson.

>> No.20913601

Hey tg,

I just ordered some models and paints today for my first 40k army (grey knights). I'm pretty fucking excited to get them and start painting them. I got a terminator box and plan to pick up draigo king of the sues soon as I want to make a draigowing army, other hq choice is going to be a malleus inquisitor, I plan to it flavour it as the inquisitor (so far unnamed) trying to find a way to bring Draigo back with limited success (ie the battles in which draigo is present)

anyways there seems to be some talented painters in here and I was hoping to get some tips for painting grey knight terminators and painting in general.

Also I want to get a second psycannon in my unit, any ideas on how I could convert a psilencer?

>> No.20913838

me again. I had completely forgotten that my LGS had a big sale recently and I picked up a shitload of different paints and supplies and I grabed a bottle of 'Ardcoat as well for pretty cheap.

Is this stuff any good? Would it be better than spraying them?

>> No.20914274

Cry brushing with a lighter blue over the blue would also be a good idea. also dry brushing grey over the black. I have a black and grey tank, worst mistake I ever made in regards to painting my tanks.. i'd go with completely blue if I were you. then paint black scratches with a small line of white underneath.... I'm a tank painting noob as well.

Exhibits B

>> No.20914279


'Ardcoat sure protects it, but it adds a giant glossy coat to it which usually makes your models look like ass. Unless your models are metal I wouldn't worry about protecting them with spray, unless your carrying bag is made of sandpaper.

>> No.20914308

Well I'm going for a SWAT black/blue look to keep in line with the look of my Guardsmen.

The grey over black transitioning to silver sounds good though.

>> No.20914498

Also, what would be a good model/conversion to make an ordo malleus inquisitor in terminator armor?

>> No.20914594

Take terminator armor, use a helmetless head, and paint it gold! Voila!

>> No.20914836

GSing all the tapestries and fur would help also
also a pretty easy sculpting job

>> No.20914987

I wasn't necessarily implying I intended to make the inquisitor in the picture, it was just the only pic of an inquisitor in large armor I had (although I'm pretty sure that's artificer armor as opposed to terminator), I don't have any modeling experience but adding a fur lining might not be too hard and might help to distinguish my model from a standard paladin, so thanks.

>> No.20915040

Oh yes, I should have realized that, but also 40k logic is DOES HE HAVE SCOLLS ON HIM? YES? HE'S IMPORTANT! DOES HE HAVE FUR? HE'S EVEN MORE IMPORTANT
and god help the enemy if he doesn't have a helmet

>> No.20915052


if you handle your models a lot, its best of hitting them with a varnish of some kind

'ardcoat sucks though
use the vallejo options

they also offer matt, satin and gloss

you will need an airbrush though >.<

you'd really only use 'ardcoat if you were airbrushing it, otherwise you'd paint it onto details like gems/glass or cyou'd cover a surface to prep for decals

>> No.20915061

>By god, look at the number of skulls he's got on his armor... Squad broken!

>> No.20915075


get Grey Knight terminator legs
grey knight terminator backplate
sanguinary guard chestplate

this will give you a good base to work from anyways

>> No.20915086

>nipple plate

>> No.20915093

not that guy but, so varnish an area then apply decal? then apply more varnish?

>> No.20915300


ideally with decals what you do is varnish the surface you want to apply the decal to.

You then either put the decal in water or ideally a softening solution (microset for example), once the decal comes off its backing paper, place it on the varnished surface and then hit it with more decal softener (usually use microsol for this), let it flatten out and then leave it for a while. The softener will melt the decal onto the surface. Once it is dry you varnish over it again, and then matt varnish the entire model.

This is how people achieve the painted on decal look.

>> No.20915459

nice, thanks. my decals have always peeled off, so this is very helpful info.

>> No.20916611

>That guys face
>I don't even

>> No.20917224

Just finished this for a friend.
Top side

>> No.20917226

Back side

>> No.20917230

Air Caste pilot in his ejector bath-tub.

>> No.20917234

and the underneath, my friends tau are night fighting specialists so he thought night sky type holographic projection would be cool camo for the underneath.

>> No.20917781

I like that idea, it's similar to what deep sea fish do.

>> No.20917914

dat lib, still sitting in GW cabinet, been there for a while

>> No.20918008

How do you clean your palette?

>> No.20918019

Hot water and elbow grease.

>> No.20918272

so my guard army is almost finished what do you think i could add to it to improve it sorry for the quality
inb4 remove something

>> No.20918282

>> No.20918297

>> No.20918318


>guard army
>no leman russ

>> No.20918331

>no leman russ

>> No.20918336

Hi peoples.
I'm stripping some models, using the Pine Sol method, then brushing it off with a toothbrush and some water. However, this black, sticky gunk keeps getting in the toothbrush, and it makes it almost impossible to use well.
Any methods to get rid off this?

>> No.20918346


Do you live in Sweden and did you buy that Basilisk pre-painted?

>> No.20918350

i get mixed feelings with russ should i add one?

>> No.20918367


>> No.20918379


It looks exactly like one I painted a few years back, down to the red markings and everything.

>> No.20918392


>> No.20918414


Do you have a shot of the rear?

>> No.20918469


>> No.20918474


>> No.20918482


>> No.20918485


>> No.20918503


Thanks, looks good.

Really thought it was the one I'd painted for a guy, looked so similar.

>> No.20918504

Don't use water until you've completely stripped the thing, you rinse the model with neat pine sol/dip it back into the jar it was soaking in. Water is the reason for the gunk, however soaking the brush in the pine sol every so often will remove most of it.

>> No.20918516

Vostroyain paint scheme

>> No.20918521

Have something cool in return.

>> No.20920320

cool, can't wait for my guard to be finished. half a million left to paint.

> dem eyebrows.. I know.

>> No.20920706

>dat sword

>> No.20920708

Bit manly, but all Gw sculpts are (providing it's a GW sculpt), it's impressive how detailed you got the faces.

>> No.20920762

its an old eeer heartbreaker or something model from warzone, camera sort of lost the rose I put into the cheeks.... I really tried to make her feminine lol

>> No.20922562


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