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/tg/ - Traditional Games


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[ERROR] No.19505290 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Hello fellow fa/tg/uys!

Noob artists unite in this thread (or not) to exchange painting of their models. The rest of us rip them to hell.

gnatsies.deviantart.com

>> No.19505403

Drill the barrels, finish the bases, and that'll do quite nicely.

>> No.19505480

hey thanks man, im still learning... What do you drill the bases with generally, some sort of hobby tool in particular or improvise?

>> No.19505482

Those look fantastic.

>> No.19505544

bumpan with warboss i made a while back

>thin the paints you mongoloid

>> No.19505545

What colors did you use for the leather and straps? Base and shade that is.

>> No.19505558

>>19505480
I drill the barrels, not the bases. And as for what to use there, just grab one of those handheld hobby drills. A small electrical hobby drill (such as a dremel) will also work, but will be relatively unwieldy, and if the rpm can't be set to low enough then you'll have issues with the plastic melting around the drill and making a hole much larger than intended.

>> No.19505580

>>19505545

i base coat the model skull white spray, then i leave the straps white (for ease of painting, its boyz were talking about here) and then i coat with devlan mud...

>>19505558
yeah barrels i meant, and thanks!

work in progress looted tank!

feel free to comment on my DA if you liked it :)

>> No.19505594

>>19505544
Red armour probably wasn't the best choice there for the marine, as it gets rather too much when you add the blood, but otherwise no real complaints. I'd recommend painting the entire base (after sanding), then adding a wash (such as the dip you appear to have used) and/or drybrushing to bring out the texture (might be best to do the base drybrushing first, then paint the mini, dip it all, finally re-paint the rim). And be more careful when painting the rim.

>> No.19505606

>using blood red for blood
nope nope nope
This is what you shall be using for your blood from now on my son

>> No.19505625

>>19505606

thank you kindly for that tip, what stores can i get that in? Im eu fag

tried to make a flag and failed

>> No.19505632

>>19505594

yeah im well aware: it was an old blood angel i had already painted, thats why. Now in retrospect its too much C:

>> No.19505633

>>19505580
You will most likely find that looted wagons and choppa boys are very 'meh'. Shootas and battlewagons tend to be wherw it's at.

Your work looks good for starters, though. You might want to find your way to the-waaagh forums for help, inspiration, and everything ork related.

>> No.19505637

Noob reporting in.

>> No.19505657

>>19505637

I veru much like the texture you've attained on this model. Consider to leave some detailwork out (example gun flames) to make them look more "clean" and military esque.

Thats just my oppinion though

>> No.19505756 [DELETED] 

Posted this before, but I need some advice
I think I fucked up with the blue and made it too natural (and also you can't even tell theres a darker layer in the recesses) Should I just start it over with black base and build up to a darkish grey?

>> No.19505779

Posted this before, but I need some advice
I think I fucked up with the blue and made it too unnatural (and also you can't even tell theres a darker layer in the recesses) Should I just start it over with black base and build up to a darkish grey?

>> No.19505789

>>19505779
That's a fuck awesome model. Where did you get that?

>> No.19505799

>>19505789
Reaper, also got a hammer head one and am using them for Minion's Wrastlers

>> No.19505812

>>19505789
He got it from Reaper Miniatures, think it's called a were-shark?

>>19505606
Tamiya Clear works best when you mix some brown/black into it as well. Clear on it's own is too... transparent? Bright?

There was a good tutorial for blood that used it, and I had saved on my old computer.. but I can't seem to find it again

>> No.19505817

First Space Marines I painted. Executioners 5th company.
Before those the only things I did was like 3 warjacks and around 20 dwarfs. How did I do?

>> No.19505826

>>19505817

>> No.19505831

A terrible art thread? Consider me interested.

>> No.19505841

>>19505779
Just give the blue a black wash, then mix the darkest blue you used with some grey for a nice grey blue and layer that up to a lighter grey blue. you want like 75% grey to 25% blue, you just want to give it a blue tint. that should give you a much more realistic color

>> No.19505845

>>19505826

>> No.19505848

Im horrible at doing Checkerboard.

>> No.19505863

>>19505817
Well they're plain as hell, but Space Marines so it's okay. Other than that it looks pretty good.

>> No.19505866

>>19505845
There's also a beakie with melta, but I seem to have missed him when taking photos.

>> No.19505888

Some of my older stuff here. I'm in the process of working on a few Menoth Bastions and doing a bit of touch-up on E. Kreoss.

Doing them up in leadbelcher, ruby red, and gold with some red gore. The first one I did up looked decent enough.

>> No.19505889

a reaper mini i did. trying to sell it on ebay to if people are interested in that sort of thing.

>> No.19505892

>>19505866
And that's it, a squad and a half.

>> No.19505907

>>19505892
And now I see that I forgot the tactical markings and chapter symbols. Derp.

>> No.19505931

Yep, I'm pretty shit at this.
I've based my Immortals now but it looks more-or-less the same. I'm glad I picked Necrons. I enjoying painting them, but they are damn easy to paint.

>> No.19505940

Anyone know some good cheap primer I can buy in the UK?

I have been using the vallejo airbrushable stuff, but it doesn't really "stick" to the model in the same way GW primer did, so masking tape pulls it off.

>> No.19505954

this is my struggle with White Scars

>> No.19505975

>>19505940
Sandable primer like krylon or any type of extremely cheap Car sandable primer will work
I use dupli-color and it works fucking great. The only down side is you have to shake the fuck out of the can to use it, but it only costs me about $5 American to buy the shit.

One of the left is primed with the black and the right side is the white. It cover damn good Personally I like the white for infantry and the black for vehicles.

Picture quality sucks though as I only have a camera phone

>> No.19505989

>>19505831
Zoom out!

>> No.19506016

>>19505989
He only has like three teeth in his head.

>> No.19506044

>>19506016
looks like you got the eyes right for the first one, but the next two you didn't
the trick to eyes is doing the color, and then cleaning it with the skin tone (like painting the eye lids so the eye is eye shaped instead of a blob)

>> No.19506052

>>19506016
I painted these back in like 2010, sheesh

>> No.19506163

We's Da Orks And You is NOT!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2fxUvbHzoo

>> No.19506605

just five more to go..

>> No.19506707

>>19505931
I'm going to say this now: Metallic paints are hard to do as a base color. You should either layer up with more silver paints, or perhaps drybrush it on a black base coat.
>>19505954
Have you tried the new white base coat GW made? Sure it's pricey, but I hear great things about their new white, yellow, and silver base paints.

>> No.19506883

I have only got three pictures atm of any of the stuff i have done.

I have only been painting for a very short time and beetween that and exams have not had a great deal of free time.

So please ... be gentle....

>> No.19506894

>>19506883
Jesus, resize your picture.

>> No.19506913

>>19506883

>> No.19506935

>>19506894
That aside, they actually look good. I would happily use these miniatures.
Can't really think of anything constructive to say, oh well. Time to go to sleep.

>> No.19506938

>>19506913

>> No.19506955

>>19506894

Oh yea sorry. Never really posted these before so never notticed they were massive.

>> No.19507211

Just started, first model I've painted. Thoughts? I know its not amazing, but any tips would be appreciated

>> No.19507250

>>19507211
get a better picture
folding a piece of paper under and behind it will give a nice photo studio for taking pictures, and won't get that weird colored glow from having other objects bouncing light onto it
also get a lamp for light( I'm missing that so I had to use natural light which is alright I guess)

>> No.19507408

>>19507250
one thing to add; "incandescent' bulbs should be avoided, if you can

you want "white" light, rather than "yellow" light.

>> No.19507438

>>19507211
I was excited when the thumbnail looked like the rider was using a keyblade.
It's still nice, though.

>> No.19507479

>>19507250

are these yours?

Space reich!

>> No.19507564

>>19507479
Ye, love these guys but their poses are very static out of the three bodies you get per sprue.
Also integrated bases are a bitch to remove (accidentally cut off one guy's foot so I just replaced it with a stock of a gun, no one will know the difference)

>> No.19507583

>>19506016

Dat face

>> No.19507776

Tip for people trying to paint eyeballs:

Don't.

Try just putting a small darker than the rest of the flesh tone around it line across the eye instead. Because big googly eyes look somewhat silly, it's difficult to get them to look right, and at tabletop viewing distances you should not/won't really be able to see them anyway.

Tip for things with big eyes like horses: paint them dark, probably just straight black unless you're doing something alien looking and want to emphasize that, and just put a tiny dot of white on it for the shinyness.

>> No.19508248

Alright, so I've been off of work for two weeks. And I've been making a shit-ton of terrain. Please let me know what you think, and improvements that can be made.

Incoming
1/28
This is series of village houses I'm working on. They're all WIP, but mostly done, as you can see they need doors and finishing touches.

>> No.19508272

>>19508248
2/28, From the top. They all have removal roofs. The one on the far left is a storage shed and the others are houses. I need to make some shelves, tables, beds and accessories.

>> No.19508287

3/28 Here's the internal view of the storage shed. I need to make barrels, sacks of flour, and detail some weeds and vines in there.

>> No.19508308

4/28

Top of the one house. You can see the wooden flour. Any questions about their construction or methods?

>> No.19508325

5/28

The inside of the other house. As you can see this one has diagonal wooden flooring and a fireplace, that needs to be completed with a grate and some simulated fire.

>> No.19508348

cool houses

>> No.19508349

6/28
All three with their tops off. You can see two figs for scaling in the foreground.

>> No.19508368

7/26, Here you can see some of the detailing on the back of the house to give it texture. This was achieved by using household spackle and lightly applying it with a junk brush.

>> No.19508387

8/26

This is the big graveyard. It's 16, 4x4 modular squares that can be rearranged in many different shapes and forms. Mostly paper mache for bases.

You can see the edges of the dungeon tiles i'm working on.

>> No.19508403

9/26

Here's the fuckhuge pile of styrofoam that my friend dropped off the other day. It was for shelving and now it's for terrain. WEE

>> No.19508416

10/26

Here's the current dungeon I'm working on. It's a sandstone/rocky dungeon.

>> No.19508443

11/26

Detail on a one of those pieces .

>> No.19508456

12/26

Looking down that passage.

>> No.19508467

13/26

More detail at the painting/drybrushing/graining.

>> No.19508508

Okay this room is unpainted and unadorned.

1) This going to be standing pool with a flowing waterfall over the edge.

2) This platform leads connects to either a up or down passage piece.

3) This is a natural rise and a natural choke point for the room

>> No.19508532

15/26

Here's a gradually rising plateau with some trees. It's about 13 x 6

>> No.19508541

some Night Lords I painted, camera didn't focus on all of them so oh well. Drilled the barrels with a craft knife.

>> No.19508543

16/26

Looking up the slope of the hill.

>> No.19508560

17/26

Another shot up the hill.

>> No.19508562

>>19508308
>>19508308
how did you do the flooring? and do you know of a way to cut it for a circular base for basing?

But keep on dude, I fucking love terrain building (architect fag here) but since the LGS I play at has a ton of stuff there's no need to make more

>> No.19508575

18/26

A tree shot. These are made from dowels, furnace filters, spray glue, paint, and green flocking..

>> No.19508634

>>19508562
Here's a solo tree. The base is a nice 2x2. You'll see in the next how they stand.

As for the flooring, it's pretty simple, coffee stirrer sticks. They are the right thickness, two togther are just about inch. They were painted all black then drybrushed brown.

You could easy cut for a wooden base by tracing your outline and then cutting to scale.

>> No.19508656

20/26

I found my trees were very top heavy and tended to fall over with the slightest breeze, so I weighed them down with some heavy, but very narrow washers.

>> No.19508672

Here's a group of two that can make a nice platform or halfwall in combat

21/26

>> No.19508679

>>19508634
thanks man
thought about doing something similar to that, just wasn't sure if it would look right

>> No.19508687

Here's a smaller chunk of rock with a tree and some small ruins.

22/26

>> No.19508703

>>19508679
23/26

A small stand-alone piece to give the players some height or advantage.

You'd have to cut at an angle and sand down to get perfectly circular, but it's entirely possible.

>> No.19508725

24/26

Here with another stand alone piece of ruins. You might be able to see some vines coming up.

>> No.19508735

>>19508725
woops forgot image

>> No.19508749

25/26
Here's a knight I painted as a living statue. You can see the base is a soda bottle cap

>> No.19508753

>>19508703
was talking more about the looks of the actual planks, but cutting it is not problem now, just thought it was going to be something tougher

>> No.19508757

>>19508749
So, uh I can't count. That was the last one, any questions/suggestions.

>> No.19508794

>>19508757
What scale minis are those and where'd you get them?

>> No.19508835

>>19508794
Those are 28mm scale. They were purchased on the cheap from Reaper Mini's who are awesome

http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Bones/latest/77008
http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Bones/latest/77011

>> No.19509196

>>19508749
I know its metal, but you probably should have cut the base off to make it more statue like. So instead of looking like a mini on a bottlecap, it looks like a statue on a pedestal

>> No.19509332

>>19509196
Nah, it's plastic. But I like having them be able to move like Golems or living statues. and that requires a little more solid base.

>> No.19509409

>>19505841
Tried that (without the black wash, sadly, because I don't have one)
I think its passable, but I should have made it more grey
Though I still have the hammer head to work on, so hopefully I can get that one right

>> No.19509437

>>19509332
ah, maybe a more round base instead?
Either way, just nitpicking, its all great stuff

>> No.19509520

>>19509437
This is something I really like doing. It allows me to decorate my passages with statues and also (if I want) gives me enemies to attack players

>> No.19509574

>>19509520
I can only assume the look on their faces is priceless, especially if you spring it on them after they're already past them, trapping them on both sides

>> No.19509731

>>19509574
This especially works because my current dungeon is Castlevania themed
Hidden enemies
secret rooms
demons, demons everywhere

>> No.19509832

>>19509731
do you have chicken demons in the walls?
And do you make your PC's walk like they are constipated?

>>
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