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19020775 No.19020775 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

16 Pages and no Painting and Modelling General so here we go. What's on your Paint Table /tg/?

>> No.19020783

thicken your paints

>> No.19020809
File: 588 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_1130.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Ball = rolling

What I've gotten done today, finishing up 2 others.

>> No.19020819
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>> No.19020830
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>> No.19020870

Are there any good miniature painting guides that you guys could recommend? I've looked at a few, but I'd like to see what /tg/ has to offer. Thanks guys.

>> No.19020879
File: 643 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_1131.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

You seem to have a fork under your desk and oh my hell that's the same stuff I had to do for a FoW commission a month ago.

Also here are the other two I did today.

>> No.19020881

The 'Eavy metal guide is excellent. Look up your race specific guides and you'll find them quite useful

>> No.19020886

What are you trying to paint? Fantasy, Space Marines, Infinity, 15mm?

>> No.19020914

Hey guys, so I'm wanting to try getting into Warhammer fantasy. Looking to Ogres or Lizardmen specifically... but... I feel like I'm going to suck royal dick at painting and my units are all going to look like ass. How many models am I going to ruin before i get decent at painting things?

>> No.19020952

rolled 92 = 92

>How many models am I going to ruin before i get decent at painting things?

Probably quite a lot. Unless you've got some artistic background prior to painting models, you are going to start off terrible. This really goes with any artistic endeavor, or any hobby at all really, but as with anything perseverance and patience pays off.

Also, Simple Green. It's a cleaning product you can find just about anywhere, and it will strip the paint off of any model. Just let it sit in a jar full of the stuff for 24 hours or so, then scrub it clean under warm water. This is INCREDIBLY handy if you want to practice but don't want to buy more models than you need.

>> No.19020983


hey anon, whats this?

>> No.19020989

>buy metal model
>follow a fucking guide and HAVE FUCKING PATIENCE.
>Dont skip layers, dont fucking paint straight from the pot, dont fucking dry brush like an asshole, dont just paint with 4 colours and dont fucking undercoat in black and paint light colours.
>Did you fuck up? you're not patient enough, SOAK the model in solvent and clear off all the paint. TRY AGAIN NIGGER
>you wont ruin any models
>paint the same same model until hes fucking perfect
>pain the rest of your plastic miniatures

>> No.19021000


Malifaux. Specifically Collette Dubois and her showgirls.

>> No.19021008


Will that stuff eventually damage the models over time though? And is there a reason to buy metal over plastic? is... is that the reason?

>> No.19021012

Always depends person to person. The first sets of skills you'll need is:

First is how to trim your models. There are good guides on Youtube for how to trim and clean up models. You CAN skip this step for your beginning models, but know that it'll be a hard habit to break and will be the weakest link for any solid paintjob.

Learn how to keep your hands steady. Find a comfortable way to brace your hands to minimize the shakes, or learn to paint with the motion.

Have a plan before you paint. Look over the model and plan for what color will go where. If you're going to drybrush, do that first.

Get decent lighting. Daylight bulbs give off true light as opposed to the more common yellow tinted bulbs. If you can afford get multiple lamps. I use 3 I picked up from Wal-Mart that also includes a rotating caddy for things like brushes, blades, and clippers. I think they were $25 each.

If you're able to afford, just buy one box of dudes and go to town, see how you like it, and above all else, don't be afraid to make mistakes.

>> No.19021022

You buy the metal models because they won't be damaged by solvents like Acetone or Simple Green.

>> No.19021031
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>buy metal model
Stopped reading on the first line.

Dig into yo bitz box and slap colours on shit for practice.
No Bitz Box?
Buy a bag of army men.
Find a book on ww2 camo or uniforms and try to replicate some. Army men are great because they are large, have a lot of surface area fro practicing skin or camo and what not, and have enough small details for you to get used to painting belts and stuff.

Don't bother trying on GW models for your first few attempts. You just want to get a feel for the paint and brushes for now.

As for brushes.
Get one you can fuck up (for drybrushing)
A small one (for details)
And a "standard" one (for mixing and "standard" stuff).

>> No.19021042

this is all really handy to know, and luckily I already have plenty of lamps from my girlfriend's scrapbooking stuff

also could somebody clarify what exactly dry brushing is?

do all models/units come with metal as an option? And how much of a price difference is it?

>> No.19021062
File: 26 KB, 386x500, 14144_af.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Dry brushing refers to a practice of wiping your brush on a cloth until it appears "dry" or the paint seems used.

You then slap it across your model. It hits all the raised bits and leaves the recesses whatever your basecoat was.

>> No.19021079

rolled 2 = 2


Nah, it won't damage the model. If you have greenstuff on the model (the kind of modeling putty most people use) it can often make it soft or warp it, but for plastic and metal models it'll be fine.

The difference between plastic and metal is minimal at this point. Due to injection molding technology and computer programs creating models, a lot of plastic models now have as much detail or more than metal models; this wasn't always the case. Metal has heft, but requires extra effort to assemble such as pinning, and can chip paint easier if you don't give it a coat of matte varnish. Plastic is simple and direct, and can hold paint well without needing matte varnish--but you should probably do that anyway.

For the record, resin is like a plastic in that it can be treated the same way in terms of painting and the like.


Dude, he's a newbie. Cut him some slack.

>> No.19021084

Old but I guess still relevant guide:

GW doesn't make metal models anymore, but local game stores might still have them in stock. Other lines like Malifaux, Infinity, Warmachine & Hordes have most (if not all) their line in metal.

>> No.19021089
File: 4 KB, 125x126, 1316525783458.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>dont fucking paint straight from the pot, dont fucking dry brush like an asshole
>mfw I do both of these all the time
That said, drybrushing isnt always appropriate.

>> No.19021123

rolled 71 = 71

>You buy the metal models because they won't be damaged by solvents like Acetone or Simple Green.

You NEVER use Acetone, ever. Simple Green will not damage plastic models, and will strip paint off of it as easily as it will on metal models.

>do all models/units come with metal as an option? And how much of a price difference is it?

If you're talking GW, they don't really carry pewter models anymore. They've switched to their "finecast" brand, which is their rather terrible attempt at resin. A lot of companies still carry metal models however, and the price can vary; places like Reaper are very affordable on the single-model basis, as is Hasslefree. Privateer Press is more expensive, but they seem to be leaning towards plastic now.

But no, most models are either pewter, plastic, or resin, with very few instances of getting a choice between the three.

>> No.19021126

No way bro, too many people bail out of 40k because they never learn to paint. Shit needs to be learned now
I say start with metal miniatured because you can scrub the fuck out of them with cheap solvents and never have to worry. I also like how hefty they are

>> No.19021153

If you guys are seriously suggesting a fifty odd dollar squad for paint practice fodder you are bad people. Even with stripping that's just extra unneeded hassle.

>> No.19021156

rolled 60 = 60

>No way bro, too many people bail out of 40k because they never learn to paint. Shit needs to be learned now

Coming off as an angry, aggressive ass won't help him any.

>> No.19021185

Am I the only one that is learning to paint simply by painting my army? As long as it's halfway decent tabletop quality for playing, I'm happy. I don't want to be Monet, I just don't want to table grey minis and learn to paint them as I go.

The idea of painting bits over and over until they're perfect sounds really boring. I know that sounds impatient, but do understand that I mostly just want to play. When I was young and learning guitar, for example, I knew how important it was to sit there and practice the same scales over and over; however, with 40k it seems like it's perfectly acceptable in the gaming side of the community to jump right in.

I just think it's bad form to table grey minis.

>> No.19021207

rolled 74 = 74


Not exactly, just saying he doesn't have to keep buying models once he runs out of ones to paint if he's just starting put. Had I known about that when I started I'd have saved myself quite a bit of money.

Actually this brings up a very important detail about the hobby in general, and is the biggest ill-kept secret:


Go on Ebay and scour for deals. People are selling used models all the damn time, sometimes painted, sometimes not. If they are painted, then scrub that crap off and paint it yourself; if not, score. Generally speaking, you want to aim for 15% off MSRP, more if you can nail a sweet deal.

>> No.19021211

I think it's that type of mentality that breeds good painters, but not everyone starts there.

>> No.19021226

Your comment just made a weary neckbeard smile.

Seriously, even though I'm painting with that mentality I'm still scared to death of being judged brutally whenever I go to my lgs to play.

>> No.19021228
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Thats what I did, then later on I just went back and repainted them a bit. You can paint over them a couple of times if you paint in thin layers.

And then I found devlan mud and everything became ez modo

>> No.19021231
File: 209 KB, 1200x607, PIC_5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I painted one squad and a commander and played kill teams when I started. and that commander I attempted 3 times. I spent maybe 3 hours painting him in total and had some assistance along the way. Im not saying painting a dude 50+ times, you wont need to. get some guidance, follow an online guide, talk to someone in GW and it wont take long. Just dont paint 30+ plastic miniatures in a few hours and expect to be happy with them later on

heres my first army. I learned the paint by painting the same dreadnought a few times

>> No.19021265

Also, just because it makes me so happy, I have to say:

My lgs sells all GW minis, paints, brushes, codex and everything else at 20% off. I always leave happy.

>> No.19021276

rolled 11 = 11

>Am I the only one that is learning to paint simply by painting my army? As long as it's halfway decent tabletop quality for playing, I'm happy

Nah man, that's perfectly fine. It's how a lot of us learned, myself included, and really helps showcase how a person is doing. I'd say aiming for tabletop quality (as in, not Failhorse) is the best bet.

>> No.19021287

My roommate has that model! It's so fucking cool. We call him "Warboss Baka Daka"

He usually goes down first.

>> No.19021302
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just finished my grey knights

>> No.19021316
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Painted these babies in a GW with a bit of help from a mate

>> No.19021333
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>thicken your paints

>> No.19021411
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wip in progress yellow biker

>> No.19021437

new guy here again. Going to the local game place to pick up a cheap pack of lizardmen units. Probably Saurus if they have any.

What tools/paints should I get while I'm out that I'll definitely need. Keep in mind all I have at home right now is a table to work on and some nice lamps

>> No.19021450

I would answer your question and help you out, but anything I could/would say would be the opposite of helpful!

I just paint my dudes and don't give a shit if they look "professional" because I'm more interested in the game part. And I'm not even good at that!

>> No.19021455

What color do you want them to be?

>> No.19021462
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I haven't gotten a new camera yet but I'm sick of not contributing to these threads so here's a shitty phone picture of a bane thrall I did a couple of days ago.

>> No.19021472

going with what seems to be the traditional blue skin + gold/red aztec stuff

mostly wondering what colors are recommended, but also what kind of brushes and modeling tools I will need

>> No.19021481

What ink did you use on the gold? Shit looks like old fashioned Chestnut ink.

>> No.19021483

Looks like he's coming along.
Just be patient with the layers.
I'd like to see him again after a few more layers too. He should look great when it really starts to take.

>> No.19021503

I feel bad since I am not really the person to answer beyond a medium brush for the main work. A small brush for details. A brush that can be fucked up for drybrushing. Some snips and superglue for actually assembling the models.

Thanks bro I am finishing up this layer and then waiting for a chance to pick up some goldenrod style color for him as layer over that and then the final yellow color I think.

>> No.19021538

Super glue, side cutters and an art knife are the most important tools you'll need.

For paints, avoid Citadel paints if you can. Vallejo, Coat d'Arms, P3 and Reaper are all a better bang for your buck. That said, if you can't get them and your only other option is ordinary craft paints then get Citadel.

>> No.19021588
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For blue?
Pick something dark for a base. (I don't know the new names so bear with me please) I'd say a nice Regal Blue coat is very rich and "Blue". You could go classic Ultra as well. Don't use Midnight though, it's more purple then blue (unless you want a purple bascoat).
Other than that. Get a good white. Not a primer, I mean for mixing on highlights. With a good eye and some mixing you can make your highlights just fine (or you can drop the money on a tin of Lightning blue as it's super light), especially if you're just getting used to painting.
Get a black for basecoating metal or corrections (depending on if you do out to in or in to out. By that I mean start with skin and work towards the details or stat with details and do skin last) but it's not really necessary.
For red, I always basecoat Gore or Scab (can't fucking remember anymore I'd have to see the tins) as it's dark and rich and I build up to blood then blazing orange for the highlight. I find for red you want more layers as it's a colour that really "shines" while with a darker blue you can get away with being somewhat lazy.

For gold. Oh gold...you can be lazy and do shining with brown ink, or you can do Burnished to Shining highlight with silver?

God damn it's hard to remember colour recipes. But something like that, try to find like 3-4 colours and use others as highlights. When painting, 99% of the time, the dude using less colours to their full potential will look better than the guy who used a hundred colours once each. Although of course, there are exceptions.

>> No.19021592

From what I can tell looks good. Armor looks nice and good blending on the dress part.


If you want to start off cheap, here's a guide for how to mix all the different colors with only 5 starter colors:


You'll need brushes, you'll want to start cheap with a set from Michaels or somewhere, just make sure they're brushes that end in a point, and not the type you use for watercolors.

You need primer, a cheap good one is Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2x Primer. A Golden Daemon winner I know uses this for his minis. You need snips, something you can get on the cheap also at Home Depot; small ones that will be used to cut the models from the sprue they'll be on. A hobby knife for additional trimming and scraping off mold lines (Later on you can also invest in files to help with mold lines). A small $1 pallet for mixing colors on, also a cup for water to clean brushes with. Super glue for obvious reasons.

I think that has most of the starter stuff. Anyone else can fill in what I've left out.

>> No.19021615
File: 164 KB, 1000x750, desktop.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My first models, in various stages of completion. Trying out a bunch of approaches on these eight boyz before I batch paint the rest.

>> No.19021634

You dont necessarily need a palette if you have an old cd/dvd you cant use anymore they work quite well too.

>> No.19021647

Oh and multi-surface windex for cleaning brushes and palettes after you are finished.

Sorry for the double post I am tired and obviously not firing on all cylinders

>> No.19021648

True, I just prefer one since it's only a buck and things are more...contained I guess.

>> No.19021714


very good work OP, keep it up.

>> No.19021716

Don't buy a palette.

Get a cheap plastic container, some sponge and some baking paper and make yourself a vastly superior wet palette.

>> No.19021743


Plastic glue can eliminate the need for greenstuff for filling in smaller gaps between plastic pieces. Once you get the hang of using it, that is.

Drills. These are for drilling out gun barrels and the eventual pinning you'll have to do. I bought all my drillbits for around $4, you can get them at crafts stores. You'll also need to buy a handle for the things, or you could do what I did and just sandwich them between toothpicks and superglue.

On that note, toothpicks. The things are handy if you like using Citadel paints, as you can just scoop out tiny, controlled dollops without having to dip in any brushes.

A fucking lamp. I couldn't paint shit without mine, as our house has horrible natural lighting. Also good if you don't want to limit your painting time to 'when the sun's up'.

>> No.19021793

I think it would look better with some small weathering on the helmets. They look a trifle bright to me. Looks good otherwise.

Does anyone here use a matte/lacquer spray-on topcoat? What kind should I get?

>> No.19021825
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Crazy fuck whos painting plastic 1/72's here. Haven't gotten any more work done on my dwarf test yet, need to clean some small paint cups to mix the browns I need for wood and leather, but I have no decent solvent to clean the pots with and i've been too lazy to try running water and scrapping yet.

Have my finished necron necromancer instead.

>> No.19021833

I've been using the Army Painter Matte Varnish, it's what's readily available to me and it does the job well. Only one I know if just god awful is purity-seal.

>> No.19021860


Noted, have it scheduled for when everyone's skin is done.

It has no effect on the finish at all? Been considering ordering a can, myself.

>> No.19021906

There is a tad of shine versus paint on matte sealers, and one of my friends says out of 3 cans, all of them had the propellant run out before the product. I got it since it was the only one that the two stores I go to had other then Purity.

>> No.19021926


>had the propellant run out before the product

I have this exact same problem with my primer sprays and it is a pain in the ass. Any idea on how one would go about 'reloading' a spray can?

>> No.19021946

I don't think you can. Hopefully you're just using spray that's cheap enough where having a couple extra cans on hand is feasible.

>> No.19022244
File: 244 KB, 1028x820, highelfmage.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Just finished this last night, not really statisfied but it's the best of my abilities.

The base still needs some work though

>> No.19022331
File: 249 KB, 1824x1368, Demon_Prince1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My demon prince (have to finish the wings still though).
Currently working on chaos spawn and when those are down.. like 50 tyranid models.

>> No.19022348

buy a cheap airbrush and compressor, even if you just use it for priming and topcoating it will save you a ton in the long run.

>> No.19022357
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One thing I will add to painting tips is this: washes. They can be used as the main coloration for a model if done right.

Take this guy, for example. Temiya white primer with bleached bone on the head and reagal blue on the soulstones. The rest is all blue wash with a few decals thrown on.

>> No.19022363
File: 86 KB, 384x640, IMAG0005.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

less blurry version

>> No.19022370

If that ain't a heavy duty Wraithlord.

>> No.19022392
File: 146 KB, 567x426, SANY0024.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My first Warmachine model. Been painting Warhammer 40K for about 5 years now.

>> No.19022517

The cloth bits look fine, but I think the metal parts look a bit flat and the gold is a bit splotchy (I know how gold can be a pain). A simple wash should be good for the metal bits.

I can't recommend Vallejo Model Air metallics enough when it comes to gold. I have the gold and brass ones and they give perfect, smooth coverage in a single coat over black.

>> No.19022548
File: 299 KB, 1877x869, Adams front.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Whatever you do though DON'T buy a fucking GW spray gun. Those things suck balls.
When it comes to painting tanks, I found this to be very helpful- http://www.scalemodelguide.com/guide/painting/painting-sequence/
Worked well for my spider tank.

>> No.19022583

>Whatever you do though DON'T buy a fucking GW spray gun

I don't think it can be stressed enough that you shouldn't buy a single thing from GW besides the models themselves.

>> No.19022598

Hey now, the paints are good too.
Before you say they aren't, even scale modellers- the people who do all crazy dioramas and crap, just for display purposes- say GW paints are good. They also like Green Stuff.

>> No.19022624

GW paints aren't bad, but the alternatives are better.

Green stuff is a repackaged two part epoxy called Kneadatite that you can more of for cheaper anywhere else.

>> No.19022710
File: 164 KB, 574x960, My Mek.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My mek I am not the best painter but I don't try to be

>> No.19022733

>They also like Green Stuff.
Green stuff is just your usual kneadite shite. You can buy like two meters of it for the price of the tiny bit GW gives you.

>> No.19022770

Assemble either 5 burnas or 5 lootas, said.


>> No.19022793

Have any suggestions on which spraygun to buy?

>> No.19022815
File: 1.77 MB, 3602x921, loota.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.19022824
File: 1.25 MB, 1952x3264, IMAG0016.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Scratch-built orks you say?

>> No.19022832

Zog me.
It's bootiful.

>> No.19022836

Hey uh, hey guys?
I think maybe you should like, gimme some advice on how to paint Tau?

I mean like, if you want. You dont have to.


>> No.19022843

Paint them like the covenant from halo.

>> No.19022854

See the paint scheme in >>19022363?

That's called tidal camo from GW's "how to paint vehicles" book.

White base then take a big brush and start dabbing wash on(make sure you do it so it leaves spots, not an even coat). You now have your vehicles covered.

>> No.19022856

They don't really have an overarching color scheme, as far as I can remember.

>> No.19023153

What's your advice on painting horses?

Currently struggling through painting up about 40 cavalry, the rider's I'm fine with; I've just never been able to work out a decent set of horse colours.

>> No.19023240


Here is the rest of the guys, I really like painting this scheme. Not sure which colour to make the horses yet though. any sugggestions?

>> No.19023243
File: 159 KB, 820x615, Army start.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Forgot pic WOOPS.

>> No.19023465

White horses!
Shadowfaxes everywhere.

>> No.19023916
File: 216 KB, 763x613, Zwischenablage120.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Basing test with shitty new static grass.

>> No.19023920
File: 226 KB, 754x604, Zwischenablage119.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

And with the static grass I previously used.

>> No.19023998

Whats the brand for that old static grass. Those bases look freaking awesome.

>> No.19024049

The flowers really make those bases (and the miniatures with them) pop, great work there.

>> No.19024064

Army Painter 'Field Grass', there are some MiniNatur tufts glued onto this that might look they are part of the static grass at first though.

And I bought the grass I'm using now a few years ago, I hope they didn't change the formula or subcontractor since than.

>> No.19024084
File: 198 KB, 845x274, shott.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So damn many of these to do.

>> No.19024149

Looking very nice, just some of the faces could use some more highlighting.

>> No.19024297


Here's a tip for you. NEVER touch your model with your hands during painting. The fats and oils on your hands will make the paint stick really bad and it will rub off easily. Use some blue tac and stick it to an empty paint bottle or something. Surgeons gloves (nitrile/latex) can be useful too.

>> No.19026661
File: 501 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_1132.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Progress today and bump

>> No.19027259


Woah, what's keeping those models from snapping off their bases? Looking good so far.

Has anybody else found the lighter colors for the new Citadel paint range just a bit too chalky when thinned down?

>> No.19027510

They have a very tiny pin going up about a 1/4' up each leg and through the whole base.

>> No.19027560
File: 287 KB, 1024x768, IMG_6539.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

The Scourge squad I finished last week. Haven't had the time to paint anything up this week, too busy.

>> No.19027774
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Wow, since I don't have a decent solvent for cleaning my mixing cups I decided to try brute force. used a curved flat ended carving tool to scrap most of the acrylic out of the cups, then running water and a pipe cleaner sort of thing to scrubs it out, worked pretty damn well. Also worked for cleaning my water cups edges which were caked with acrylic from not getting emptied or clean often enough.

Anyways, bout to get some more work on this dwarf going. Decided my best bet for the wood on the shield would be to mix white with some sienna and then wash it with sepia ink. I kind of want a dark wood to contrast the metals, but I feel like a lighter wood would seem a bit more realistic, and after the wash I should get a medium darkness with good detail.

>> No.19027781
File: 138 KB, 1152x682, purplecrons.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

bright colored necrons. Assembly line painting 30 more necron warriors and an Annihilation Barge.

>> No.19027858
File: 527 KB, 864x645, necronbarge.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Here's the Command Barge that goes with them. Too bad my cell phone camera is complete crap. I'll take better pics when I get the other barge done.

>> No.19027991


Hey Jim, nice seeing you over here.


Dig the concept, but Your purple could use some edge highlights and needs more layers on some places. Necron Lord's armpits for instance. The greens on his halberd could use some more layers, as well. Go for a pure skull white highlight on everything that is a light source to further enhance your glowy effects.


General glow tutorial and some neat battle damage effects, leading to my next point: the white's a bit too white, you may want to add in some battle damage here and there.

>> No.19028089

Quite new to the hobby. Any way of removing glue from your model? I slapped weapons on some terminators, but i want to replace them. I think cutting it loose with a sharp knife is my best bet, maybe you have some ideas?

>> No.19028131


What kind of glue? Dried superglue snaps off with some pressure, no worries. You may then attempt to scrape the stuff off IF it is on a flat, unexposed contact point. Otherwise, get some of that superglue dissolving solvent.

Plastic glue on the other hand is more or less permanent. Nothing you can do about it if it goes out of control.

>> No.19028210


I'm not sure what kind of glue. Although it did break after i accidently dropped a termie from the table. It's arm snapped of from the body. So i guess it's not that permanent. On the other hand, i don't want to fuck up my models.

>> No.19028236


I like the glow effect, but do Necrons not come with the translucent green bits anymore? That's sad if they don't.

>> No.19028255
File: 1.52 MB, 3264x1952, IMAG0135.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Lelith and a custom Farseer.
The Farseer needs alot more work, Lelith is pretty much done.

>> No.19028273


If the glue is hard and crystallized at the contact points, it's superglue. Plastic glue melts and joins two pieces of plastic together. So there's no way in hell that a plastic model assembled with the stuff will just snap off after a fall.

Scrape off any excess glue with a hobby knife, shouldn't be too difficult if you're careful.

>> No.19028291

Does anybody have any good guides for scratch building Titans for the 28 mm WH40K game? It's something I'd like to get into but I'm not really sure where to start.

>> No.19028303
File: 236 KB, 1068x1557, img4c6ac1e40d87b.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.19028321


Allright, thank you.

>> No.19028340

>not gonna be able to paint for close to 4 months
>feels terrible

Moving sucks...at least I'll have Florida.

>> No.19028368
File: 625 KB, 1653x1213, DSCI0106.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Pic won't be up long because I am disappointed with the rider. The primer made some weird pfft sound and sprayed grit onto the model (well, namely the rider, the horse was fine). I just painted it anyways and now it looks like ass.

>> No.19028386
File: 19 KB, 241x230, laughingalchoholic.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Slaaneshi Whore Lord is moving to florida
Hory shit did, anywhere near Fort Walton or Pensacola? We have a great pair of game stores here.

>> No.19028387


Papercraft with plasticard. I can upload some old templates to mediafire if you want them.

>> No.19028409


>> No.19028424

If you are referring to TBS comics, That used to be my FGS, and if that is so it's possible you already know me.

>> No.19028441

Hot damn another fa/tg/uy from TBS? Fuck year. How long ago though? I only moved here about two years ago.

>> No.19028478
File: 41 KB, 500x333, pic112955_md.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


That would actually be wonderful. I've tried it before a bit and was mildly successful, but it's really difficult to cut plastic like you do the paper and then make the pieces fit right after. Any advice for that?
If you've got any Admech stuff, that'd be awesome too.

>> No.19028509

ah I moved away about 3 years ago so you probably showed up round the time I was there on my New Orleans vacation.

Look forward to makin' your acquaintance, Have you talked with Warren at all? He's the guy that taught me to think outside the box and showed me proper color theory basically functioning as my mentor when it comes to painting.

>> No.19028511


Aight, hold on as I upload these monstrous rars.

Ad Mech stuff as in? I've got a TON of Imperial tanks of varying affiliations, but nothing specifically AdMech, I'm afraid.

>> No.19028545

I don't know any Warrens. I usually stick to the TBS in Fort Walton so maybe that's it. Anyways, we're friends on steam so I'll throw you a message or two that way at some point, and stop taking up room in the thread.

>> No.19028547

I can recommend the imperial armot masterclass volume 1 by forgeworld, haven't got my hands on volume 2 yet. google massive voodoo, great source for articles aswell

>> No.19028575

Try using a bigger contrast, and maybe try your hands on actually blending the colors

>> No.19028613
File: 22 KB, 370x250, 1290850734900.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

main comp is packed up so I won't be on steam for a while. my Email is [email protected]

>> No.19028717




These two are a relatively smaller filesize. The Imperator was much larger.

Unfortunately the templates for those are currently unavailabe due to lost USB's.

You can print these out on regular paper then make the transfer to plasticard as you please. I'd say that cardstock would be enough for some of the smaller parts, actually.

I haven't had the chance to try these guys out on plasticard just yet, but let me relay some general tips. Cut on multiple passes if you need to, always re-remeasure to be sure, and layer up those plates for best effects.

And rivets. Never forget your rivets.

>> No.19028790
File: 206 KB, 800x600, 1318695307792.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Admech stuff kinda like this. I wish Scripty was here ='(

>> No.19028830
File: 226 KB, 632x610, Dorf.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


He didn't turn out too bad for an ungodly tiny test piece. I'll wait a few days for the paint on the shield to dry more and try another wash of the sepia ink, it's probably too wet and absorbing the wash preventing it from filling the cracks as well, but I didn't want to wait and tried anyways.

>> No.19028847
File: 82 KB, 600x442, img4a23549c89dbd.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Thank you very much sir. Bad news about the Imperator class ones, I've never even someone try to scratch build one of those. At least not very well.

>> No.19028900


They are far too big. Go Epic scale if you want a believably rendered Imperator, that other template I had wasn't too hot to be honest.

And I have no idea what's going on in that AdMech group shot of yours, but I like what I'm seeing.

>> No.19028971
File: 62 KB, 441x588, 441px-Warmonger.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Yeah I know they're pretty big for the 28 mm, but I'd still love one lol.
Where's a good spot to find Titans for Epic scale? I've never played it, but I'd love to put together a giant army of a Titan Legion and it's supporting forces. Possibly 2, just so I could teach a friend to play as well.

>> No.19028988

Super new guy who was here last night again. Went to the local game place and they have a whole rack of Citadel paints, some basic tools and pretty much a basic unit pack for each faction of Warhammer fantasy and 40k

Ended up picking up the How to Paint Citadel Miniatures book and some basic tools/paints/brushes. Going to go back Friday and pick up a box of units and some more paint and get myself started. I'm actually starting to lean back toward Ogres for my first try though

>> No.19029029
File: 598 KB, 800x863, cote2d.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Oh and I think that Admech shot is something I found on coolminiornot.com
Yeah I know they're pretty big for the 28 mm, but I'd still love one lol.
Where's a good spot to find Titans for Epic scale? I've never played it, but I'd love to put together a giant army of a Titan Legion and it's supporting forces. Possibly 2, just so I could teach a friend to play as well.

>> No.19029068


If you bought the new book then aw snap son, that wasn't too useful a purchase. But I guess the wealth of reference material might come in handy.

Those starter kits come with simpler models, as per the 'babby's first minis' concept. They've got pegs and holes at the joints, and are very easy to assemble.

Personally, I've only needed to use the old GW starter brush and the newer detail brush for all my basic paintwork, so you may look to just buying those two for starting up.

>> No.19029097


Can't help you with actual mini purchases, I'm afraid. Don't know much about Epic scale, myself. Try going to online sites like warstore and miniature market, they might have some in stock/special order.

>> No.19029174

What's wrong with the new book? Been reading through it and it's been fairly helpful so far, as far as learning basic stuff

>> No.19029181

I recently received my 80 warzone soldiers,

and since the first model I tested my colour scheme on required me to mix up a rather dark green wash (I'm painting them with washes) I had to mix one up myself.

SO I went to my FLGS and bought the darkest looking green shade/wash I could find. something-Camoshade, and it didn't work since it's too light. so now I have to mix up this same colour again and again.

>> No.19029314
File: 260 KB, 1296x968, IMG_0166[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

can any of you identify where this piece came from/what it is? I found it at the bottom of the package when a bunch of the minis I ordered arrived. It sais 'Reaper' on it so I figure it's from Reaper Miniatures, but I don't know what model it's from.

>> No.19029337


Not so much 'wrong', more of 'easily available everywhere else'. That's why a scan of the new book isn't highly demanded, it's information a lot of painters already know. The old book is more useful I think, and should be readily available in PDF form.


Bookmark that link, the shit on there is fucking gold.

>> No.19031340
File: 20 KB, 350x372, 06115_shieldmaidenc_ds.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

This is actually the Spiked Chain weapon from a reaper mini. Pretty cool bit, if you'd like I could probably hunt down the mini too. But it would take a while.

>Pic possibly related, not sure if it's reaper.

>> No.19031389
File: 34 KB, 229x350, 02823_G.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

And never mind it must have been a different mini, this is the one I had in mind.
Sorry for the doubles.

>> No.19031667

How do you guys manage to get so much color on such small minis? I feel bad that the most I can make look good on my marines are purple and gold.

>> No.19031686

Also, if anyones looking for a good site to buy minis cheap, without hunting ebay, I buy from here for 25% off

>> No.19031693

MAGIC oooo ahhhh ooooo

>> No.19031738

Hold your hands steady.
Use a Fine Detail brush.
Have a good source of light.
And if you're really hardcore. Get a desk lamp/magnifying glass combo that jewelers and stuff use.

Always be patient, never rush. That's how you make mistakes and start to cut corners.

>> No.19031776
File: 99 KB, 709x337, necron.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

my test model for my necrons
the poor guy has been repainted 10+ over the last 3 years

>> No.19031870


I bought a magnifying lamp for this purpose. The light it comes with is a flourescent thats way too blue and worthless for painting. I have a daylight flourescent I use as my main painting lamp that works fine, but the magnifier can get in the way and cause shadows.

As for the actual magnifier itself, you'd be shocked how hard it is to actually paint under once because all your sense of space becomes completely wrong, so you have to relearn your hand eye coordination for under the lense.

I assume if I bothered practing and trying harder it could work out well, especially on the damn 1/72's. But between shadowing, lighting, movement and object holding issues it becomes a massive hassle. Honestly I find straining my eyes works better.

>> No.19031955

Depends how you use it. Obviously you'll have to make adjustments.
But if your way works for you then keep doing it! I don't claim to have all the answers, and painting is more about doing what you find comfortable then following the "rules".

>> No.19031988

A bit blurry, but a nice skeleton theme.

>> No.19032146
File: 671 KB, 2194x2103, DSCI0578.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

yea, I'm not at my computer, so I had to use my phone
the torso is actually blue it just looks black in the picture

>> No.19032275

Whats a good way to make the exploding spears for rough riders? I have a bunch of Ig bits, but none really seem to fit save for just slapping a grenade on the end

>> No.19032464

Am I the only guy who keeps all his empty sprues?
you never know when you'll need rectangular plastic pieces

>> No.19032478

Use a camera, not your cell phone.

>> No.19032746

don't have a camera on me
I actually created some necron wraiths using sprue to make blades and the tail along with a mutilated necron warrior

>> No.19034855
File: 678 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_1136.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

And here's everything in this commission job together. Now I get to start working on my own stuff...at 9:30 at night. Great.

>> No.19035440
File: 657 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_1138.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Don't die on me thread!

Got here a bunch of 'jacks I gotta base for a convention I'm PGing this weekend.

>> No.19035503
File: 234 KB, 1200x900, converts1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.19035515
File: 86 KB, 487x493, 050912011955.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Since I like how the testors copper turned out on the dwarf I decided to try it out on the medieval melee necrons. Just did some dark brown for wood on the shield and hilts, and did copper for the pauldrons too. Once I get some better blue paints I want to try doing the marble effect for some more detail, but I doubt I will be able to do it real well at this scale.

Any other ideas to make them more necron-esque? I'd like to do an insignia or add more glowing green but I don't really have any good spots to do such.

Also god damn is it hard to get sharp and detailed pictures of minis this small. Zoom out for better focus, loose detail from size, get closer, get blur. I really need a better camera.

>> No.19035546
File: 419 KB, 1600x1200, GEDC0549.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.19035625

EVERY FUCKING TIME I see this image I try to figure out why my desk has Gray Knights on it.

>> No.19035872
File: 817 KB, 2804x1433, GEDC0587.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I will admit that I lol'ed.

>> No.19035911
File: 980 KB, 1600x1200, S4300019.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Look at the desks and tell me they do not look alike

>> No.19035913
File: 427 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_1139.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

OK, putting it to you /tg/, I need a color scheme for Coleman Stryker. I barely use him, but I need him painted for my Battlebox. What would you like to see?

>> No.19036028
File: 173 KB, 900x1200, GEDC0732.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Yours seems to be real wood, while mine is just a MDF prefab desk.

>> No.19036048
File: 194 KB, 1200x900, GEDC0738.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I love the plastic striker, much better pose then the classic metal model.

I see the green jacks in the background, I could see trying a cammo look for the coat or at least keeping with the green.

>> No.19036085
File: 191 KB, 900x1200, GEDC0733.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Any hoo I've been starting to paint my wyches that I've changed up to be death cult assassins. I'm going with Inquisitional colors but I need to decide on the red and black or the harlequin alternating colors.

>> No.19036096
File: 2.12 MB, 3648x2736, DSCN0960.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I let painting ADD take me where it wanted tonight, so these guys all got a little paint on them at some point tonight.

>> No.19036112

wow where's that cherub from?

also I like where the croc has gotten

>> No.19036156
File: 2.18 MB, 3648x2736, DSCN0962.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Cherub's from the old witch hunters box set from GW (I think you can still buy them via their site). The Gator is actually for a buddy, I also did his gatorman posse recently.

>> No.19036192

I've only played against the gators once but they ate me alive.

I'll need to look into the which hunters kit.

>> No.19036229

I actually got this one as a metal model. FB answered first though and he's getting painted up Gal-o-sengen style.

>> No.19036304

I'm not finding the cherub, they've been putting things from the witch hunters selection. Shame though its like they hate sisters of battle.

>> No.19036393

>Open photo in paint
>scale down to 50%
>save, THEN post
>everyone loads them 200% faster

Seriously folks.

>> No.19037189

I use the small side of an old sowing desk, that holds a bunch of other shit.

>> No.19038422
File: 314 KB, 1470x828, currentcryx.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Got a pic of my painted Cryx so far.

>> No.19039639
File: 607 KB, 900x1031, Seether.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

rolled 63 = 63

I would've liked it if the damn Seether had came with BOTH back-spikes, but the guy who commissioned me for it didn't seem to mind so. Whatever.

Cryx are fun to paint but hell to put together.

>> No.19040187
File: 101 KB, 1460x480, wwsk2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Did some Warpborn Skinwalkers recently

>> No.19041660
File: 487 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_1142.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Finished up Gal-o Sengen Styker this morning.

>> No.19041678
File: 412 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_1143.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

and back

>> No.19042069
File: 783 KB, 1536x2048, IMAG0166.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Mortis pattern dread that I've started working on

>> No.19042079
File: 683 KB, 1224x1632, IMAG0125.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

inb4 drilling , i know , it's on the to-do list

>> No.19042684
File: 78 KB, 800x600, Gren 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I like these a lot, especially the contrast on the Stryker mini.

Finishing up the rest of my Axis Grenadier squad like pic related, now that I've decided on a paint scheme. More folks should get into Dust Warfare/Tactics, it's a ton of fun.

>> No.19042742


>>Galo Sengen Stryker


>> No.19042756


So I listen to the D6 Generation review of it yesterday, are the infantry models really that bendy?

>> No.19042781

What's the deal with Dust, are the minis prepaints and you just touched it up, or do they come fully unpainted?

>> No.19042802

They come assembled, primed, and with decals already on.

>> No.19042864
File: 1005 KB, 1952x3264, IMAG0081.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

They can be made to look pretty awesome

>> No.19042918
File: 1.10 MB, 2100x2800, Sicarius again.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I have nothing to paint at the moment.
So have a pic of my shitty Sicarius.

>> No.19042968


If you decide you wanted to strip him I can vouch that Simple Green works wonders on acrylic paint, and even enamels. Took a bit of time to eat through a clear coat of future though.

He honestly doesn't look that bad though, but the light blue lighting was indeed too much, looked better before you added it. I know that feeling far to well though, I'll have something looking great and decide to try to add more detail and end up fucking the entire thing up. Either I try to go over it or fix the new issue, or I leave and deal with it. Some times it even grows on me and I come to like the accidental effects. Feels bad though.

>> No.19042997


I appreciate the advice man.

In a few years when (hopefully) I can do passable lighting effects, I'll give it another go.

>> No.19043145

I'm thinking about picking up one of the walkers to use as a leman russ, But with it being the odd tank out of four existing GW ones, it'll be hard to convince my group that I'm not just trying to save money on models
well, mostly the looks of it, but the price point doesn't hurt

>> No.19045892

>>19028303 it always bugs me that those giant ass
robots of doom have less guns than a bane-blade

>> No.19046096
File: 45 KB, 800x600, AxisHeavyWalker1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Yeah, they've got a light grey undercoat on them, and they are a bit bendy, but still sturdy enough to paint without having to worry about accidentally bending the paint off the models. Nice thing about the models is that the torso's come with just a plug holding them together, so torso swaps are super easy. And as >>19042864 said, they can look pretty damn good when folks take the time to paint them up right.

There IS less detail on them than, say, GW's models, but there's enough to recognize who's what, so to speak. I want me one of these, a KonigsLuther heavy walker. My Axis needs moar GERMAN STEEL.

>> No.19048827
File: 400 KB, 1024x768, Pitch.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Blood Bowl pitch

>> No.19048832
File: 426 KB, 1024x768, Dugout1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

One set of Dugouts

>> No.19048842

The other Dugouts

>> No.19048850
File: 478 KB, 768x1024, Dugout2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

4chan ate my picture

>> No.19049201

That's most excellent. I love seeing good home-built terrain.

>> No.19049231


No where I can torrent? I'd rather not pay 60 dollars.

>> No.19051223

wow, those are pure shit

>> No.19051538

Vallejo paints going up slightly in price.

Time to splurge on some now.

>> No.19054439
File: 607 KB, 1200x655, HaqqInfinity.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

just based the Farzan and Fiday

250 points on the dot. Gotta grab two more Muyibs for a round 300

>and then buy all the other hassassins because oh my god gotta catch 'em all

>> No.19055608

So I'm doing a few necrons as a bit of a project, and plan to give every model legs like Szeras has (The spider like ones, to look cohesive as a personalised army)
What would be the best way to go about this? My Finecast model has a bit of detail flaw, and it seems like a difficult set of pieces to resin cast. Any advice?

>> No.19055647

There also appear to be around 7-8 air bubbles visible at the shoulders, is this ground for GW to send me another model, or will they just tell me to liquid greenstuff it?

>> No.19055667

If you email them they'll send a replacement no questions asked, but if it's just a minor thing don't be a little bitch, green stuff it.

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