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[ERROR] No.18671245 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Hey there /tg/ first time poster.

I've finally gotten around to getting a miniature for my (pathfinder) Paladin of Torm.

Anyways, this is more about painting miniatures. I wanted to ask if /tg/ has any tips or suggestions for improving what I've done so far. (I fucked up the face I think.)

>> No.18671263


>> No.18671273


Serious answer: thin your paints. Always. Thin. Your. Paints.

>> No.18671280

>I fucked up the face I think
>the face
You fucked up a lot more than that son
That aside, Jesus his legs are skinny

>> No.18671283

alright mate, first off do you know how to prime a miniature?

>> No.18671297

It actually doesn't look like your paint was too thick, which is surprising for a first-time painter. So kudos for that.

The main problem here is lack of definition. You have nothing but solid, flat colors that causes the detail to be lost in the
uniformity. Applying some "shadows" of darker colors in recesses areas (like the folds of cloaks) and some
"hightlights" of brighter colors on the very raised edges can create a much more natural looking appearance that helps to
show off the details of the model.

>> No.18671309

What would I thin my paints with

And no, I don't know how to prime. this is the first time I've tried this.

>> No.18671341

It depends on what paint you're using. Different paints require different mediums to thin them--some require specialized thinners, some can be thinned with water. So telling us what paint you use would help.

>> No.18671392

Glass bottles are Testor's enamel

Hopefully I haven't broken some inviolable law about mixing paints.

>> No.18671413

alrighty then, on your next miniature go buy a can of matte white krylon spraypaint, and coat the model in it, don't clog the detail just a nice white coat to cover the metal.

second, go buy a pallet and an eyedropper from walmart or a cheap store. this will allow you to put your paint somewhere and add water to it assuming you are using acrylics.

now, it does take practice for brush control, so I can't help you much there I would recommend picking up a bunch of cheap second hand miniatures because you are probably gonna suck for a while. most people do don't get discouraged.

I HEAVLIY recommend reading this PDF, not only does it guide you though basic practices but can also help with advanced methods.

the Important thing is don't give up, if you want any help in the future I would be more than happy to give you some pointers. you can reach me at this email: [email protected]

>> No.18671446


take those testors and chuck them out the window, you won't be using them any more.

>> No.18671497

The Citadel paints can be thinned with water. The Testors ones, being enamel paints, require special thinners--and
honestly, I would highly advise against using them on miniatures. They create a very glossy finish that, while fitting
for the model cars they were designed for, looks terrible on miniature figures.

>> No.18671516

I think another piece of the problem was the brush. basically going in blind, I picked up the second smallest one in the (comic) store. When I got everything started, the brush seemed fucking huge, which blew my mind


>> No.18671599

If heading to walmart for aformentioned items pick up a fuck off huge set of brushes, they are like $5 a bag, learn which ones you use most, and buy better versions. I can already tell you you will want a #2 horse hair. I use one for everything but detailing. It is also the type I have to buy a new one of often because I use it so much.

learn what you are comfortable with and you will be painting better before you know it.

>> No.18671794

A region on a mini can be done quickly and well with three variations of the same color: a BASE, a HIGHLIGHT and a SHADE. These can be applied in any order you want, really, though usually base or shade first is easier.

To paint a quick face that will look good from a distance, you can take a flesh tone paint and put it everywhere, then look at a black and white picture of a face in pretty harsh lighting. Where shadows are cast, put in a dark brown. Where the light brightens up the features, put a tiny dot of white. It will look fuck ugly up close, but when you step back a few feet ("tabletop distance") it reads clearly as a face.
Don't bother dotting your eyes.

What I've done with this image should show what I mean. The lighting in the original came from the side; unless you want to do consistent lighting across the mini, try to get the lighting to be symmetrical. I've evened it out.
If you keep zooming out your browser, the face on the right will look more like a face, while the one on the left will look more like a NASA photo of an asteroid.
An understanding of contrast will do you wonders as you learn to paint.

>> No.18671799

Another tip is to stick your model to some sort of stand with sticky tack (a wooden dowel works, but anything's fine so long as you can grip it). This will allow you to have a firm grip on your model and rotate it around without actually having to put your fingers on the model.

If you're painting an unassembled model, you can try basecoating and painting basic colours before assembly; this will allow you to get angles that might be awkward on the fully assembled model.

>> No.18671869

Also, I always say on these threads, eat before you paint (and carefully get all the grease off your hands), because if your stomach is empty, especially if you drink coffee, you'll be more shaky. An excellent way to deal with shaky hands is to hold the mini in one hand and the brush in the other, with your wrists pressed together and your elbows on the table or your forearms against the table edge.

>> No.18672032

Citadel paints would you use water
Or a paint thinner

>> No.18672055

water, usually the ratio is 1:1

>> No.18672073


Earthworm Jim?

>> No.18675711

This is cool

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