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/tg/ - Traditional Games

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[ERROR] No.18396344 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

So why aren't all your miniatures painted, /tg/?

>> No.18396354

Because I just got like 70 new miniatures and I don't own any painting supplies.

I'm doing this backwards I think.

>> No.18396357

Because I can't paint for shit, and every time I try, I wind up detracting from the quality of the miniature.

>> No.18396363

I blame university exams

>> No.18396371

I'm working on it damnit. Get off my back

>> No.18396376

Because I obsess over details and can't bring myself not to paint every model to the best of my abilities. So it takes far, far longer to paint each model than it really should.

>> No.18396379

I bought waaay to many as a kid, and then painted them badly. I've stripped them all but that's the easy bit.

>> No.18396408

That and the fact that I find building/conversions much more fun anyway.

>> No.18396411

Because I'm practicing on this one. Also because I got some 5 or 6 thousand points in Tau Empire in an incredibly lucrative deal.

>> No.18396413

Do you needa layer of foundation first. I'm making snow camo and cant find a white foundation so I am just painting white

>> No.18396417

At the moment the armies I'm playing are (3k DoC(FB), 3k Dwarfs, 2k Orks).

That said I'm working on my VC regularly now (about 3 hours during the week and 3 during the weekend). If I maintain my schedule I should be done by the next big tourney at my shop.

>> No.18396426


I share this fault. Ive only ever painted my warboss and his squad of nobz, they look good but the thought of spending hours on one boy puts me right off. I cant not do it either, i cant leave it if it looks like shit, i must paint it till it looks decent which takes me ages.

>> No.18396430

it would take thousands of man-hours to paint them all and the amount of satisfaction wouldn't be nearly worth it

>> No.18396435


Wait until friday - there may perhaps be news of a foundation white.

>> No.18396453


Why not work on speeding up your paint process itself? Is there no way to work through a base/shade/layer/drybrush process?

>> No.18396460

Because I have to be motivated to do it, and after being at work my only desire is to be as unproductive as possible.

Also I'm working on it, but I'm a really slow painter.

>> No.18396467

Awesome. Painting my Tau with snow camo. Only got a squad of fire warriors done so far

>> No.18396477

Because I have 50+ men of guardsmen and the idea of sitting down and painting repetitively pisses me off.

But I need to paint them...


>> No.18396479

Because I don't like to paint, and don't give a shit about people who would force others to conform to their stupid standards in a hobby.

>> No.18396506

>implying I'm not painting things -right now-
And once I finish my fish and chips I'll do some more

>> No.18396510


Why not get a spray gun (GW or another brand depending on your needs)? You could base coat all 50 and then work on batch painting in squads of 10s.

I find if you break up your painting its much easier to stomach.

>> No.18396515

>what they'll end up like;

>> No.18396525


Despite not liking painting (and you're extremely poor attitude) - why not work to paint to a 3 color standard? It is excessively easy and shows a modicum of respect for your opponent.

>> No.18396546



>> No.18396553

I have all my miniatured painted.

But well now I got a bunch more and I'm in process to paint them. That is about once a year.

God I need to stop wasting time in the pc.

>> No.18396564

Mine are. I've done 6 Ork armies over the years, fully painted. One was donated, two are packed away, and the others before that went to the cardboard-box of casualties.

And I'm now working on Soviets for Flames of War. I only play with painted miniatures...

>> No.18396570


Make sure you wash your hand, you don't want grease on them.


Umm, this mite be a good idea, once I have money, I'll look into buying a airbrush.

>> No.18396584

You respect your opponent by being civil to him, not being a bitch when he charges 6.01 inches and thanking him for the game whether you win or lose. Despite having a painted army I have never felt insulted because someone else didn't.

>> No.18396586

Because the colour yellow can go die in warp fire.

>> No.18396601

They're not here yet.

I've got 3,000 points of Black Templar SM coming my way.

>> No.18396607

Because I have no arms.

I'm tyapring wityh meyha mouythg.

>> No.18396613

Because I hate painting. And there's absolutely zero respect to be had if your army is painted or unpainted. No, respect is knowing the rules, not being a dick, and working to enjoy the game.

And no, I'm not a powergaming faggot. I love to convert, and I'm running me some CC chaos IG, which is frankly terrible, but I like the look and I enjoy playing it. I just could give a shit about getting it painted.

>> No.18396617

>Make sure you wash your hand, you don't want grease on them.
I've learned that the hard way.

been watching old LucasArts games while painting the two. Surprisingly good background noise

>> No.18396634

There is in fact a great deal of respect shown by painting your army. It implies you respect your opponent's time as much as your own.

I guess that I'm fortunate in that my store only allows painted armies so I don't have to deal with the grays.

>> No.18396641

I don't have any minis anymore.

Looking to get back into it, though. Just the painting. Tell me, what do you think of Warmachine in terms of modeling?

>> No.18396670


Why would you want to "show respect" to people that would have you spend ALOT of your time doing something you dont enjoy just to please them? They dont deserve respect if thats their opinion

>> No.18396702

>I don't enjoy seeing fully painted armies line up against each other
>basecoats and washes are too hard
I'm not sure wargaming is the hobby for you

>> No.18396703



Part of the fun of miniatures and wargaming is taking a picture of two really good-looking armies going at it, but even if you don't paint well, it doesn't take much skill to give the models a black undercoat and then pick out a few details.

With an airbrush or using a black or white, most models can be painted in a rudimentary fashion pretty quick. More to the point, if you're there to play the game, it makes identifying what the enemy has pretty easy.

I don't want to have to individually search a sea of fucking grey blobs to try to pick out the heavy weapons squad on the field.

I'm not saying I won't play with an unpainted army. That's not fair to the new guys. But if the same dick showed up to a match with the same army for the fourth week in a row with the same unpainted army?

Dude, you're playing a god-damned miniatures game. Spend a couple hours painting the things.

>> No.18396707


Because the hobby is a social hobby - I want to return the work effort my opponent has put into his army.

If he put effort into painting his army, so should I. It may not always been fun but it is worthwhile as A) its part of the hobby and B) its an issue of mutual respect.

>> No.18396712


Actually it's because I got bad primer. It ended up too too black. Someone suggested me Duplicolor spraypaint, but haven't gotten around getting it.

...also I'm not to sure how to paint. Do I just assemble then paint or paint the pieces then assemble? Though I kinda already assembled my first squad so the question is kinda pointless at this point in time. Also I have no idea weather I should just glue in that last bit on the necron guass rifle now and insert the rod later or glue it in when I painted everything.

>> No.18396724

> So why aren't all your miniatures painted, /tg/?

YOU FOOL OP! Everyone knows if you paint your last mini you'll die and instantly crumble into dust on the spot. At my current rate of collecting verse painting, I should be good until some time in the 2300's...

>> No.18396743

Because I stuck to 28mm like a fool. Now that I switched entirely to 15mm and "vessel scale" (be it sea or space) I am no longer plagued with thousands of details overloading my senses. I am efficient, I am fast, I am painting the forces at a speed undreamed of by those still shackled by the false prophet of 28mm!

tl;dr: smaller minis equal faster output.

>> No.18396755

Because I paint like shit. I'm thinking about investing in some washes. One for the metal parts (any suggestion?) and devlan mud. Also, I'm nearly done painting my first ever Leman Russ. It looks alright on table (like... all of my models) but horrible with a closer looks.

At least, there is not much left to paint. I've got AoBR orks + 10 boys and a nobs and a brand new IG battleforce + 5 guardsmen to paint.

>> No.18396758

Can't help you with the Necrons, but you generally want to assemble, then paint. Priming in the sprue generally isn't a problem, but general consensus is that you want to paint the full model.

>> No.18396760


Assemble first, then paint. That way you can use the hobby knife to remove the flashing on the edge of the model from the sprue or the mold.

But stick the rod in when you're done, unless you plan on painting it.

BTW, what did you use for your base coat?

>> No.18396790

I just finished assembling an Elysian Veteran Sergeant that could double as Straken and actually managed to give him a realistic amount of webbing (holster, shotgun bandolier, ammo pouches, knife, snacks--fuck, I forgot the water bottle.)
And I have an essay due tomorrow.
Get off my back.

>> No.18396799



>> No.18396805


Oh gosh, this a thousand times.

>> No.18396833

15mm? Eww.

You're gross and you should feel gross. :P

For guns, I like to stick with a slightly watered down black wash, but that's just me. Then again, I tend to abuse the hell out of black washes, so...

>> No.18396836

No one said it was hard. But I model and play wargames for fun. Why would I ever do something I hate a whole bunch just to please people I could give a shit about, and often don't show the same respect(looking at you, all those people who don't know the rules/make up shit that's wrong)

See, it's that kind of elitism that bothers me. Never mind the fact that my army clearly has a lot of time put it in, what with 50-60% of it clearly being big conversions, just because I didn't bother painting it I'm not showing "respect" to the other guy.

It'd be like saying if you don't do your own conversions you can't play your army. Painting is optional, always has been.

>> No.18396877

All my miniatures are painted.

If they're not painted, they're not used.

I still have a shoebox stuffed full of blisters, but I'm working on other stuff right now. I can't afford to work on them yet. I want to get all my plastics done ASAP. Might be shipping off to Glorious Nippon, but that's not yet confirmed. If I do get accepted, my pewters are going to have to stay behind, for the most part.

I play with painted minis because, for one, I know that finger-grease and paint chipping would sabotage the miniatures any point from priming to completion. The other reason being that I want people in the area to get interested in the game, and playing with bare minis doesn't draw much interest.

>> No.18396896

No good camera around and my iPod camera won't show those tiny details, especially since the guy is primed black. Also, the pose he has doesn't help (It's sort of a half-crouching shooting pose with the powerfist making a "Coe at me" gesture)

>> No.18396929

What's not to like about taking a bit of time and effort to make the conversions you've put work into making look good and unique look better?

Painting doesn't take THAT long unless you're doing it Golden Demon levels of right, and most people don't obsess over it that far.

Part of the reason you're going to get looked down on (and people will always do so for unpainted miniatures) is because wargaming is partly about awesome, miniature models looking great in a miniature battlefield.

I agree with you about the rules 100%. No miniatures game is so complex that you should forget the rules, and if you're new enough that you might there's no excuse not to have the appropriate codex and rulebook on hand.

But look at it from my perspective. I come to the table with the rules known and my miniatures painted, because that's generally what people expect (unless you say "Hey, I just got this and it's not fully painted yet,"). I expect my opponent to know the rules for his army and to take the time and energy to make his army look decent, just like I have.

You can't spew that bullshit about elitism and then turn around and get pissy about people not knowing every aspect of the rules by heart. That makes you a god-damned hypocrite.

>> No.18396955

Rustoleum satin black. got it because it was cheaper than the GW sprays. Retrospect I should've done a little more research on what sprays to get.

Mind you I only used it on the 3-man CSM pack, didn't coat my whole armies with it.

>> No.18396980

>So why aren't all your miniatures painted, /tg/?

look closer you idiot

i play space sharks, they ARE grey. and these ARE painted, i didn't clean mold lines and drill boltgun barrels so I could slap some details, highlights and decals on bare plastic and call it a day

now feel free to drool over the mix of old marks of power armor, old bolters and heavy weapons, and abundance of beakie helms - there's a reason it took me a year to collect 1000 pts of this army, and not for lack of disposable income

>> No.18397011

Perhaps..you should have added shading and highlights?

>> No.18397028


You can, because it's a miniature GAME. Not modelling. I'm there to play, not to make things look pretty. I'll paint them at my own goddamn pace.

>> No.18397029

>What's not to like about taking a bit of time and effort to make the conversions you've put work into making look good and unique look better?

The painting portion. Seriously, I do not like to paint. At all. It makes me angry to do it, and I can't stand to do it for any length of time. My painting isn't even all that bad(not what one would call good, but certainly not horrible), it's just that actually doing it pisses me off.

And I'm not going to be pissed off for the 120 models my army has. Especially since I could really give a shit if my army is painted or not.

And you misunderstand me. I get mad at the people who get pissed about painting but don't know the rules. Some guy who doesn't know the rules because he doesn't play often or is a kid or whatever doesn't bother me at all. It's when people insist on a stupid standard but don't hold to another, far more reasonable standard that I get annoyed.

>> No.18397033

Yeah, paint is important. Picking the wrong one can mean the difference between having to strip a figure because it's caked in crap and being able to proceed.

Personally, I've found that the Citadel Sprays last long enough to be worth the cost, but that's me. I'd definitely shy away from anything meant for masonry. :P

>> No.18397050

I'm a terrible painter, just awful and way too perfectionistic. Instead of being happy with a model with a passable paint job with a minor flaw (not inside the lines), i'll attempt to correct it making it a horrible paint job overall.

>> No.18397057

>mfw when I noticed it would take me about a decade at good pace to finish everything I have

notably 100 or so points of metal Cygnar I can't even bring myself to look at.

>> No.18397425

>having to strip a figure

Newbie painter. How would one do this? I've got a model I screwed up on (badly). Plus it seems like generally useful knowledge.

>> No.18397572

There are a variety of methods. Personally for safety and effectiveness I use Castrol Super Clean - it's an engine parts degreaser that you can find in most automotive sections of larger retail chains. It works very well on plastics and metals, and you can leave plastics floating in the stuff for weeks without worrying about damaging the plastics. (It will however apparently weaken or debond cheap super glue bonds. It doesn't do squat to epoxy from my experience.)

Get a clean glass jar, pour in some C.S.C. and leave your minis to soak over night (or weeks at a time if you're busy). You'll likely start to see paint flake and peel off in a matter of hours. Wear some rubber gloves (and a cheap pair of safety glasses) and use an old tooth brush and running water to remove the last bits of old paint.

People also recommend DOT3 break fluid for your car to strip minis. Use that shit ONLY as a last resort. You can literally get cancer just from reading the label on that shit. Don't spill it on ANYTHING - especially your own skin. It destroys auto paint jobs, clothes, carpeting, relationships, you name it.

>certain recyclops
Hmmm captcha, you could be onto something...

>> No.18397600

cuz im a lazy fuck and STO eats all my time... damn MMOs

>> No.18397618


1. Simple green
2. Let mini soak overnight
3. Apply toothbrush
4. ?????
5. Profit

Especially the profit part, buying poorly painted minis for crazy cheap on E-bay is how I have most of my figs.

>> No.18397634




I wouldn't even use brake fluid. If I've fucked up a model that badly, I'll buy a new one and eat the cost rather than touch that shit.

>> No.18397760

Will simple green do anything to greenstuff?

>> No.18397785

Because I keep buying shit tonnes second hand that there's no way I can keep up with the repainting of.

>> No.18397805

Not the same guy.

But do you know the format for Simple Green? I don't want to spend money for a gallon when I'm going to apply it on one model (the imperial pilot from 4th edition, gonna paint it with my guard's scheme and use it as a veteran with shotgun and demo charge).

>> No.18397829

>unfamiliar with Simple Green

"Simple Green is a brand of cleaning products produced by Sunshine Makers, Inc. [......] In 2001, Crystal Simple Green was used to clean up an oil spill in the Baltic Sea."

Hooooly shit-!

>> No.18397832

Thank you! I see people on other forums recommending that shit (DOT3) all the time to newbies like it's baby shampoo or some other largely harmless substance, the dumb-fucks.

The only thing I've ever had C.S.C. not strip well was some old Ral Partha minis I painted 30+ years ago as a newbie using Testors enamel model paints. I finally had to use DOT3 on a few of them. I was just extremely careful doing it with full gloves, safety glasses, etc. (CSC did get most of the Testors off most of the minis.)

Pic related... Dat Testorz, dat damn brown Testorz...

>> No.18397884

enamel is a nightmare.....had to deal with some testors blue/ dark blue enamel on some minis...took 3 soaks in simple green minimum

>> No.18397885

>Thank you! I see people on other forums recommending that shit (DOT3) all the time to newbies like it's baby shampoo or some other largely harmless substance, the dumb-fucks.

It's our way of helping Mother Nature. If you're too damn dumb to figure out how to use brake fluid, you deserve what you get.

>> No.18397986

Next time try some Castrol Super Clean, with the acrylics, primers, and enamels I've stripped off of metal and plastic minis (and even a few resin models) the CSC has given superior results over Simple Green and Pinesol (which can weaken plastics) and Easy Off oven cleaner. Not to mention it's less than $10 for a gallon of the stuff which strips A LOT of minis.

Dude, I'm pretty sure Mother Nature and Darwin have all the help they need...

Now some of the old Humbrol enamels were very good, even if my painting skills and techniques were rather lacking at the rip old age of 12. Pic related...

>> No.18397991


>the format for Simple Green

What do you mean by that? Regardless, its cheap and useful for other shit around the house too. Buy the gallon, use the rest to strip more minis or clean up greasy/oily spills, mop, whathaveyou.

>> No.18398001

I'm not good at it, and so it's very discouraging. I do what I can, but it's a chore to get to a 3 color scheme.

But anyone who thinks wargaming = painting is retarded. I got into it for wargaming. What part of that says "painting?" None. I do enjoy the modeling part of it, but I've gotten more than my money's worth out of it playing with an army of largely primed and 1- or 2-color models. I prefer to spend my time on the actual war and/or gaming part of it than the painting, and since I'm a sporting opponent who'll point out which guy has what, no one has a problem with it.

Seriously people... lack of will to paint shouldn't discourage you from a hobby. Especially if the other person is going to judge you on that. Tell them to go to art school if they want to judge someone based on that.

>> No.18398014

Cause im working on bases atm.

>> No.18398015

They are all painted.
They came that way.

>> No.18398058

I don't know what you're talking about, every assembled model is painted.

>> No.18398070

On a note to the simple green guys.

If you don't have the cash, something that works equally well is LA's Totally Awesome cleaner. You can find it at most dollar stores. Works just as good as simple green. Costs a dollar.


>> No.18398147


One minimum strength Infantry platoon and a armored sentinel doesn't count. Thats like calling a patch of hair on your chin a beard.

>> No.18398164

Let me guess, Nurgle?

>> No.18398165

No offense bro, but did you just take a dump on a base and call it good?

>> No.18398174

Goddamn clicked the wrong pic. I am most certianly not amazed

>> No.18398198

Not everyone has been collecting for months and have sacraficed their social life to paint their little plastic army men. Fucking elitists I swear to God.

>> No.18398209

with a heavy weapon team in each squad those LoTR bases are pretty perfect for guard

keep on truckin'

>almost there now..

>> No.18398216

ork mud bases actually, this is a mount for a custom force field generator thats wip atm.

yea not the best but im not the best with bases, and the generator has alot of work to go. I just didnt want to clutter up my big mek unit and also have a model that I can tack behind a vehicle to show which one the mek is in.

>> No.18398249

Because they're not assembled yet.

>> No.18398259


I was definitely thinking that was a good looking fresh mud style base, but it does look like someone smeared fresh shit all over a base.

I know what it is, but I cannot unsee...

>> No.18398267


>> No.18398274


now that's that I call a shitty base.

what's the story behind that one?

>> No.18398282

because I own 9 armies.

To be fair though I have fully painted 4 armies prior though and 2 of my currents are over the 80% mark.

>> No.18398287

Because when I water down my paints, they go on looking like water-colors. And multiple coats don't do shit.

so I get discouraged and quit

>> No.18398292

>>18398274 here
ah, gotcha!

>> No.18398295


Are those Star Wars minis on 40k bases, or are they converted Citadel minis? And what does that AT-AT count as? A Titan?

>> No.18398307

the story is the camera flash brings it out with some of the colors you dont see well in person. But It was in my lame attempt to make a fresh wet mud look, to sculpt a base with greenstuff, paint it dirt esc then give it a gloss varnish to keep it having a wet look.

>> No.18398339


Stormtroopers for counts-as IG!?

I like the cut of your jib.

>> No.18398357

WotC Star Wars minis all. Except the tanks.
The AT-AT is a Warhound Scout Titan.

>> No.18398374


What else needs to be done to complete those? If you dull coted them afterwards, they would look amazing.

>> No.18398376


It dosnt look bad, it just needs something else to break up the uniformity. Like a patch of grass/un-completely mudded ground or some more debris in the mud.

>> No.18398384

Hello, are you me?

>> No.18398388

Because I want to expand my Dark Eldar force before settling down and painting them.

Right now I've only got around 500 points worth, and that's if I kit them to the max possible. Normally it'd be around the 200-300 range.

... That, and I'm still trying to decide on a scheme that would look good.

>> No.18398408

yea I learned my lession with this base, albiet thankfully its more of a 'token' then an actually useful peice of kit, but for my nobz etc I know to add more details, gonna try battlefield debries, possibly sculpt a few sandbags, some wood planks for trenches, random bits from ig and sm, etc.

>> No.18398411

burnt orange yo, looks great on armor.

and I'm dump a few pics in between writing some shit.

>> No.18398412

But that would imply I have any other units to paint.

>> No.18398430


So are you using Vader as a Lord Commissar so he can Force-choke his officers?

>> No.18398455


>> No.18398462

Yeah, I was thinking a burnt orange/gradient black or an off-color bleached bone look.

>> No.18398501

bleached bone can look really good especially if you know how to make blue a bright color and use it sparingly.

>> No.18398514


Idk if you have a plan or anything but popsicle sticks make awesome wood planks, just chop/break em up, glue into place and hit em with some washes.

>> No.18398551

huh I like that I may have to steal that.

>> No.18398603

popsicle sticks are too big for 40k scale. Get wooden coffee stirrers from starbucks they are about the right scale.

>> No.18398644


Popsicle sticks are pretty easy to split, lengthwise. Besides, >>18398514 looks pretty good to me.

>> No.18398649

I think what he did looks fine and pretty damn good.
Only an autist would say something like, "POPSICLE STICKS ARE TOO BIG FOR HEROIC SCALE 28MM."

>> No.18398668

For the Bleached look armor would be Bleached Bone and I was planning on highlighting the cloth in either Fortress Grey or Rotting Flesh, while doing the eyes of the helmets in a Blood Red highlight; hair would most likely be Skull White with flesh being off-colored.

You may have just made my decision, you glorious bastard.

>> No.18398686

the more i painted the better i get ( I hope) and that means I need to go fix up the old shit before I continue.... that and I play guard. repainted Gandalf.. wait a few months and he'll need repainting hahahahHAHAHAHAHHhashaha ho ho.. hee.. he... fuckit

>> No.18398698


Because wood is only cut into one size ever amirite?

Plus you can cut the sticks along the grain pretty easily, as I did with the topmost ones and the posts holding in the barbed wire (pipe cleaners with the fuzz burnt off.)

>> No.18398712

compare them with; >>18396515

Tightening up the highlights on the armor, finishing up the gold, doing the eyes.. and highlighting the black

It's a bit of a hassle, but the end result is worth it

>> No.18398720

Only a retard would save and subsequently post a thumbnail. Your argument is invalid.

>> No.18398774


>> No.18398822

whoah. watch out. we got ourselves a genuine Autist!

>> No.18398837

>>18398014 here, geeze those popsicles look good, used them on the bed of a trukk for my army.

>> No.18398843

Holy crap, yo, is this your first time in the web? Ease up, bro, take a chill pill. I don't know what rustled your jimmies before you got in here but sweet baby Jesus just take it easy.

>> No.18398847

>> No.18398871


To be fair saving thumbnails is for retards.

>> No.18398878

You now realize this thread has derailed into calling people autists over popsicle size.

"It'll be fun," they said... "You won't ever need another board again," they said...

>> No.18398891

>> No.18398903

To get the thread back on topic; because I just put it together last night.

>> No.18398911

gonna need to eventually pick up one of the running peasants from the giant set for this spider.

>> No.18398921

Painting threads attract bitter jealous autists. Can't into artistic skill for the life of them so they hate.

>> No.18398922

because mass effect 3 came out and it was glourious, up to a certain point everyone is sick of hearing about.

>> No.18398934

I have 320 skaven left to paint and well damn its a daunting task.

>> No.18398936

Orcs & Goblins. For all three major systems (WHFB, WH40K, LotR / WotR). With the goal of 3K+ points for each.

Guess why they aren't all painted?

>> No.18398948

>> No.18398953

Buy 5 bottles of devlan mud an airbrush and some foundation paints.
Spray them all a flesh tone. pick out the cloth in a foundation, paint everything else that needs to be metal.
Cover it all in devlan mud.

>> No.18399010

I have about five thousand points of Chaos all painted and based. It's not hard for me to field a fully painted army.

I have hundreds of sprues, half-painted and half-finished "projects" in boxes from about half a dozen different armies though.

You never really finish anything in this hobby.

Also, I'm actually replaying ME3 and don't feel like painting right now.

>> No.18399029

unfortunately... i mix paint colors for each regiment, fur, cloth,metal YAY.

>> No.18399038

>> No.18399086

'cause while I think my painting ability is passable, I hate doing it. Plus, since I avoid playing in tournaments, or any kind of organized play that would require some kinda painting score, it's a non-issue.

>> No.18399118

>> No.18399135

Pleaseeee!!! Post your Menoth and tell me how to do that beautiful green!

>> No.18399205

haha alright no problem.

So How I start off is by base coating with krylon matte white, but that is mostly because I do all of my miniatures with a white basecoat now, it means I can't be lazy later on.

>> No.18399226

The next thing I do is apply scorpion green from the citadel line, in the areas I want to be green. I usually go 2-3 parts water to one part paint but everyone is different, and that white absorbs color rather well.

>> No.18399262

I then use 1:1 green ink from the P3 line, over the areas of green. You can kind of be sloppy with it here but just remember the more areas it gets into now (that you don't want.) the more you will have to clean later.

>> No.18399311

damn post ate my pic, anyway.

I then do the flesh usually, taking a basic skintone and applying it to the fleshy parts. then going over it with a wash of ogryn flesh, and touching up the high points.... unless it's a commander or some other special guy I really don't pay attention to the skin much, chances are unless they are going into a painting contest my opponent won't see them very long anyway.

>> No.18399416

So after the flesh I move onto the gold trim, I use an off brand of gold since my alcohol based Vallejo has long since dried up and put a bit of the badab black wash over it, simple but I like the effect.

>> No.18399459

Finally I move back to white (for the trim), but it's from the GW line simply because I get a little more and I find Vallejo's White thins out too much and takes like 7 coats.

and that is a basic guide to how I paint my menoth.

>> No.18399581

Thank you Whore Lord!

>> No.18399663

bitch please

>> No.18399688

oh no i was just having some fun

once someone did mutter under his breath about 'kids and their unpainted armies' after glancing at my table, despite the fact that i have rust weathering and they're more of a battleship grey than the flat dark grey of the sprues

he apologized after i asked him to take a closer look, and i didn't hold it against him - his salamanders were extremely well-painted.

>> No.18399691

np I got a small speed paint guide for my night goblin if you want it.

>> No.18399781

I painted something!
Too bad my ability to take pictures is crap, and that makes the mini's look crap. (IMO, they were just decent before hand.)
>Captcha: under betwder
Is Captcha giving me advice again?

>> No.18399906

and whammo; biggest hurdle is done. There's a couple places I was a bit sloppy I'll need to fix (sarge's bolt-pistol pauldron.. the highlight isn't right), but right now my hand is killing me

Just the metals, blacks and eyes to do. I'll get a chainsword for the Mk6 when I buck up and buy the tactical squad I need for these guys.

Fuck, jump packs make it so much more tedious. A bitch in assembly, and a bitch to paint. They're lucky they look so cool when it's all said and done

>> No.18399966

I like the model, I like the file name.
Classy all around.

>> No.18399991

Yes please!

I'm probably going to start with HE (and fantasy in general (and mini-wargaming in general)) this weekend so, some painting guides will be useful.

>> No.18400024

How did you do that gold trim?

>> No.18400057

alrighty then, Also I Would go check out /rs/ for the CMON painting guide it's got a bunch of good tips for beginners and anyone who really wants to extend their style.

So as you can see from the first picture I prime white.

In this second picture I take some lime green from Vallejo, and water it down to about 2 parts water to 1 part paint. Now on more recent goblins I use the same Scorpion green from GW as I did on the Menoth stuff. The point is I'm always using a bright green.

>> No.18400089

in that image?

It's just Calthan Brown as a basecoat with a single layer of Shining Gold

for the finished product I do a light highlight with Mithril Silver. Sometimes I'll need to clean up my highlights with a bit of Shining Gold... but...

>> No.18400095

so the Third step, I took some turquoise from Vallejo and watered it down to about 3:1, Mainly due to how dark the color was, when applied it made a brightish blue that I really liked, I would wind up using this on my Blue 'un (the one of the big spiders) later.

>> No.18400118

I'm >>18396755 and I'm done with my first ever leman russ. I'm pretty proud since it's the first vehicle I did (excluding a recon sentinel). The paint job is pretty crappy, but at least it's done.
Now, one boyz and five guardsmen to do.

>> No.18400130

SO what color do we make a moon? I decided I didn't want red as a main part of the color scheme so I decided to go with yellow which fit with the theme rather nicely. This yellow was achieved with an ink by Vallejo called transparent yellow, the same color can be achieved with The P3 yellow ink. and it is simply one thin coat, as the white base will soak it up.

>> No.18400180

moving on I decided to add a tad more to the icon by adding some wood coloring to the stick, that color by vallejo is Natrual wood, and P3 makes a similar color called rustic tan, both are a really good brown to build bone up from as I have done many times.

I decided the sword needed a bit of color, so I decided to add a spot of red to the handle, it proved to draw the eye rather well but I still find myself asking if I should have gone with another color.

>> No.18400236

So I couldn't leave the Yellow alone, next I used the same yellow ink to make this little buggers' shoes yellow, same as the banner a thin layer of ink over the white worked just fine.

so then I added a bit of black to the caps of the banner, it's GW's chaos black watered down to a 2:1 ratio, it went on smooth and I only needed 2 layers.

Now as a small aside I painted this little guy up as a class project to show a speech class how easy and effective powerpoints could be if used properly, I also wanted to show a myriad of different colors to interest those I had talked to earlier about miniature painting.

>> No.18400306

Now, As you can see I've added metal to this miniature, I really only used one type which is boltgun metal, but in my opinion a light silver is the painter's best friend when it comes to metals because it can be used to make just about anything. For the sword I watered it down to 2:1 making it kind of difficult to work with but I managed it, just be aware that metals will thin out if watered down and might require 2-3 coats.
On the caps I couldn't get the watered paints to stay on the little nubs where they belonged so I did not thin them for the very small detailing.

finally I watered down a bit of leather brown for the small tie at the top of the stick. I just made it a darker brown so it would stick out from the actual stick...I feel I could have made it green and gotten away with it but decided against it.

>> No.18400329

Hey guys it's time to play spot the difference, This picture is the Before picture before I applied washes in key areas to show how they bring out detail.

>> No.18400383

and this is the after picture...

Now, as you can see I applyed washes in several key areas the first being the skin of the goblin, the second his staff and finally his shoes. I liked his cloak enough not to run a wash over it and make it darker.

For the skin I used Thrakka green, stick got a wash of ogryn flesh, and the shoes got a nice coat of Gw's sepia wash.

and that is it, other than the small detail of bleached bone on this gobbo's teeth. in total with pictures and everything this model took me 45 minutes. But if I wasn't taking pictures and I was streamlining the colors I can get an entire 50 man unit done in about an hour and a half or two hours.

Also I got an A+ from everyone except for one bitch in the class. Incase anyone cared.

>> No.18400393

fukkin captcha eatin' mah pics.

>> No.18400432

This looks pretty awesome, I love seeing step by step photos.

>> No.18400435

The difference is too small to be of use.

>> No.18400463

huh It seems I did a separate step for the green wash, sorry about that take a look at the difference between the one before the "before pic"

again sorry about that.

>> No.18400506

That's really good, although personally I think it could use more detail (eyes, teeth, etc). But maybe that's just me.
Either way, It's a good way to paint an entire goblin army.

>> No.18400507

Seems to have a somewhat lighter color of green.

>> No.18400523

I got some upcoming works in progress, none of them painted yet, but stuff I'll have up probably after I get done moving back to the states.

If you guys want to see upcoming projects.

>> No.18400554

because i have like 5000 pts of marines and i keep adding onto it.

>> No.18400558

that's the point, it was to show that side by side the washes will not only usually improve the colors but draw out detail.

I try not to do eyes on rank and file dudes unless I feel they NEED them, again it's not like unless they are a special character that they are going to see much time on the board anyway. But I do agree with you on the teeth I wish I had taken a picture of them after I had gotten done.

>> No.18400566

I can see the difference pretty well. The green wash gave it a greenier look, before it looked a lot like yellow. Tho' I don't like the wash in the staff and shoes, it looks like you put too much in it.

>> No.18400654

Any High Elves?

>> No.18400665

nope sorry as a general rule I don't play elves, though I might consider painting a few up if I can get a few cheap, just different ideas of color schemes I think of while looking at the the high elves...

Though come to think of it, I do have some glade guard laying around...I don't really want to paint them as I planned to use the horses for conversions.

>> No.18400679

Because I suck at painting, especially bare heads, and I can't really bring myself to do it.

>> No.18400684

decided to just get it over with;

Sarge's eyes need more work, and I need to re-highlight some of the red of his helm, but my fine-motor skills aren't up to it right now. Oh, and all the barrels WILL get drilled.. once I find my pin-vise or borrow someone else's

One thing I really like about this squad; Every trooper has their kit in the same spots. A melta bomb, some grenades, and three small pouches. The sergeant is different.. but.. I had run out of the small pouches and the melta-bomb unbalanced the figure when placed in the same spot.

But yeah! Really pleased. I loathe edge-highlighting, but it just works with the Ultramarines.

>not painting your miniatures

>> No.18400701

Just finished this converted Dreadclaw. I'm on spring break and I'm going to try to put out a vehicle or two a day until I have to go back to school.

Except right now I want to go play Skyrim.

>> No.18400723



>> No.18400734

shit, I just noticed I forgot the helmet-lamp on the beakie and the gems on the power sword

...I'll do it later

>> No.18400755

So, any good, popular wargames that don't need any mini painting?

>> No.18400768

Good job on those, very clean and excellent for TT standard

>> No.18400771

choose 2

>> No.18400772

There was AT-43, but that died last year.

>> No.18400795

Warhammer 40k

>> No.18400804

mission accomplished

thanks, buddy

>> No.18400831

It died? What a loss, it had an interesting setting.

>> No.18400835

because I gave up on miniature gaming the better part of 15 years ago.

>> No.18400847

>I gave up on being a supreme badass the better part of 15 years ago.

>> No.18400894

So I got a question guys, if I were to start a miniatures blog would any of you read it? or are there too fucking many as it is?

>> No.18400914

I would

>> No.18400937

I might it would depend on what you paint, how you paint it, how often you update, and if what you say is interesting.

>> No.18400961

alrighty then. Probably get around to it once I get some stuff photo'd that people haven't seen on /tg/

>> No.18400962

Because I'm lazy, I haven't had a chance to play a game with them in almost 5 years, and they're on the other side of the planet right now.

>> No.18401014

Because spend a very long and hard time trying to paint my minis and they end up not looking all that great. I try to paint them all, but I'm to afraid paint my vehicles.

>> No.18402132

Hello, will you accept a collect call from devlan mud.

>> No.18402147


>> No.18402178

Because I am a lazy, lazy man.

>> No.18402263

use grey foundation

>> No.18402367

I want desert bases for my High elves army. How do I do it?

>> No.18402384

For the cheap, get Styrofoam, grind it down/rub it with sandpaper, and paint it sand colors.
Or buy the shit/grab and glue down actual sand.

>> No.18402400

Ok, let's try it another way - what colors in what order should I apply for a desert base? I'm thinking more of a Tomb Kings than that pic above

>> No.18402556

basically it depends on how you want it, red sand brown sand, yellow sand?

I would start with a lightish brown as the base color, leather brown would be a safe bet, and work up with a mix of leather brown and bleached bone until you finally drybrush with bleached bone on the highpoints, rocks, bumps, ect.

>> No.18402619

That's what I do too, I want to try yellowish tone and the only yellow paint I have is plague brown and snakebite leather

>> No.18402759

Much as it ains me to say to get a yellowish tone I would work with 3 colors Bubonic brown as the base, being mixed slightly with desert yellow, and then begin mixing those two with bleached bone until you can get it to such a point where you can drybrush the bleached bone.

>> No.18402789

But all my minis are painted.

Working on a 1000pt Sa'cea Sept Tau army. Probably going to expand it, because they're really fun.

I like stealth suits. Come at me bro.

>> No.18402815

'Miniature Wargames' and 'Wargames' are not synonymous, the former is just a sub genre.
Any kind of Hex&Counter wargame won't need painting obviously for example.

>> No.18402831

In a 500pts skaven list I have 85 models and i'm trying to get this list to 2000pts... DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA HOW MANY RATS I'M LOOKING AT! I GOT RATS COMING OUT MY ASS!

>> No.18402871

Bought all my chaos on sale and have about 80+ marines to paint. I am hesitant to paint any heavy weapon's squads though with the impending codex drop.

>> No.18402900

All of my models are painted, I just did a shit job of it.

>> No.18402917

That said, I don't feel too bad about my Ogryn, though.

This one is converted from a warhammer fantasy model, with the gun being made from various bits, and the stomach hole being fixed with Greenstuff.

If the models were a TAD bigger, I'd have much better painted models. I'm not quite so good at the fine detail stuff.

>> No.18402935

I'm trying to paint my defiler but the damn thing keeps stinging me with all it's spiky parts.

>> No.18402938

>Down syndrome gaurdsmen

>> No.18402950

use something like a rod to stick the defiler on it so you can hold the rod and not have to handle the actual defiler.

>> No.18402956

Because I hate painting gaunt after gaunt after gaunt. It is fun for the first 30 gaunts, but after about number 50 it gets a bit boring. I refuse to let quality slip.

>> No.18402975


Charadon granite, rotting flesh, badab black would be my guesses as to what would produce that colouration.

>> No.18403088

You know, when it comes to painting stupid large numbers of Nids, an air-brush is hugely time saving, and it doesn't have to be $300 double action brush with a high end compressor to do the job well. I use $30 dollar brushes and an inexpensive compressor from Harbor Freight that gets the job done well.

>> No.18403157

>posting Joani on /tg/

Oh you.

>> No.18403188

Let's see, my 2000 pts IG (mech-blob mix) is almost done, I need to finish like 10 models, I just can't bring myself to painting Straken, because I'll probably ruin the model, and I'm currently sick of painting IG. So now I'm working on my CSM.

>> No.18403189

I was painting my stuff, but then I moved and I'm still waiting on my supplies to get here.

>> No.18403206


>> No.18403217

An alternative scheme for Plague Marines I was using. Which one do you think is better, /tg/?

>> No.18403260

you love it and you know it.

That's gonna be me for about a month or two. ugh...

>> No.18403287


Lol, thanks.

Good to see this thread is still going. We need to do something like tale of four gamers.

>> No.18403310

I wouldn't mind doing that if I wasn't having to pack all my shit up to move.

>> No.18403351

My army is basically all painted. I've started on a "refurbishing" of the vehicles in my army using ForgeWorld Type-II Eldar stuff. This is a WiP pic of the final tank, a Wave Serpent, that I'm working on. Should be done by tomorrow.

>> No.18403520

looks nice, I wish I could do freehand like that.

>> No.18404204

In the same situation here. Plus I'm horrible at painting.

>> No.18404253

Which Vader mini is that?

>> No.18404294

Honestly I'm kinda worried. I've never been that artistic and I take a lot of pride in my models. I dont want to screw up and bring the quality down.

That and my army isn't even finished. Damn expensive plastic

>> No.18404392

Because while I can happily spend 10-20 hours painting a nice HQ model or vehicle, I hate painting squads of troops.

>> No.18405809


I've got an Iwata Revolution CR. Its double-action and only cost $100. It hasn't failed me yet.

Also, my compressor was only $30 on sale at Harbor Freight. Built in moisture trap, but I got a separate one just to be safe since it can get pretty humid here in the summer.

I woudn't want to basecoat anything without an airbrush. But then again, because I use an airbrush, I wait until I have a few things to basecoat before I do it. Its not worth the setup & cleaning time to get the airbrush running to basecoat just 1 troop.

>> No.18406853

not painted as not even assembled yet.

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