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[ERROR] No.17788838 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

I didn't see one on the front page, so lets get a painting general going.
Just finished priming this whole squad with a 2/1 mix of black-paint/water. Gonna start doing the main color of emerald now. Gonna do another 2/1 mix unless y'all tell me otherwise.

>> No.17788842

moah pics

>> No.17788850

even moah pics

>> No.17788861

I'm going to be painting up either Lamenters or Imperial Fists at some point in the immediate future. I haven't done this whole painting minis thing before. What do I need to know?

>> No.17788867

Made this bitch several months ago.

>> No.17788885

And these Uruks.

>> No.17789063

OP here, just realized I didn't resize my pics. sorry bout that. Not gonna bother resizing and reposting them unless somebody expresses interest in seeing 10 black dudes.

>> No.17789066

Good question, this is my first time painting. I've been playing with around 2,400 points of dudes and I finally decided that the see of grey was depressing.

>> No.17789114


Yellow is the hardest colour to paint of all time. I wouldn't reccomend it to a beginner.

One method would be to get some (good) "yellow" spray, spray them and dip them in Army Painter or something. Gives a good shaded effect.


>> No.17789123

I wish I had a good camera and a working computer for threads like this.
Have some WIP Bloody Reaver taken with the 3ds camera.

>> No.17789126



>> No.17789143

Shit, is that a converted RT dreadnaught? I'd love one of those things just for shits and giggles. And the army painter dip looks like a glaze, too.

>> No.17789180

>The only reason anyone uses Banshees

>> No.17789191

>dem assez

I think I just felt my dick move.

>> No.17789201

you must make atleast one of those asses look as though it's been spanked recently...hard, she's a naughty girl...

>> No.17789211

Just imagine the reddish skin under those white tights

>> No.17789225

Shiiit, didn't even realize banshees are Eldar. Thought they were daemonettes/

>> No.17789246



>> No.17789276

A Space Wolf who is a knight!? With a flaming sword!

>> No.17789290

When 1 Wolf Knight isnt enough..

>> No.17789302

What is better than a power fist? 2 POWER FISTS! Add some fire and ice flavour for extra killy.

>> No.17789314

Space Wolves have boss ass Terminators

>> No.17789326

Chaos has boss ass Termis too

>> No.17789422


>> No.17789487

Fuck it bumping with a Salamander because I wanna see other peoples cool models

>> No.17789503

Why use 1 Plasma Pistol when you can use 2?

>> No.17789534

My Wolf Priest on a bike. I dont even have bikers, made him for fun.
His beard is the best Greenstuff thing I ever sculpt.

>> No.17789556

this pic
Is perfectly accurate?

>> No.17789569

Judge for yourself. Those Banshees aren't modded in any way. That is how the models normally look.

>> No.17789571

That fucking Salamander. I jelly, jelly as fuck.

>> No.17789584

I'd love to do a Salamanders army but I already have Spess Woof and 2 Mureen armies is too many.

>> No.17789610

What if. You make him the Warboss of an entire Band of Orkz. Because one day the Salamander was hit in the head and suffered brain damage.
this caused him to think the Ork Clans were his Green Armoured Troopers.
Now you can make an Ork army.

>> No.17789611

OP here, just finished (I think) the main color for these two guys. 3 layers of 2/1 mix of paint/water. It's supposed to be emerald, being colorblind I can't tell. what do you guys think of the color? Did I thin the paint enough to please /tg/?

>> No.17789635

I'm a shitty painter and get impressed by anything, but frankly
It's good. Looks very emerald.

>> No.17789636

I use him as a Lone Wolf.
I also already have an Ork army, but most of it is damaged or unbuilt since it was my first army. Stopped using it because all the fun high risk/Reward models cost way too many points to be worth it.

>> No.17789649

Not sure if trolling...

>> No.17789652

Well, you now have a reason to rebuild the army.

>> No.17789653

Well, Make him commander of an ELDAR GREEN ARMY
With the whole Brain Damage, you know what?
I'm using the Brain Damage idea, no one else take it.

>> No.17789654

Emerald is an odd choice for woofs. Why did you go with emerald? For uniqueness?

>> No.17789661


You don't always have to thin your paints. Sometimes you just need to dab it against a paper towel to make sure you're not globbing it on.

Darker colors are usually thin enough on their own. Lighter colors sometimes need thinning and are a horrible bitch to paint.

>> No.17789663

I'm not...I'm being completely serious. I'm colorblind, first time painting, etc. Here's the B&C painter mock-up of what I'm going for. It seems to me that the painter either made the color much darker, or the Vallejo paint is much lighter...I dunno.

>> No.17789665

Fuck that I'm gettin Newcrons. Newcrons look awesome.
Not sure what colours I wanna do though.

>> No.17789671


>> No.17789672

Pink, Orange and Green.

>> No.17789674

You'll get there after some washes, methinks.

>> No.17789677

Doing a custom chapter. The SW models just had the best models to capture a barbarian feel for SMs.
Good to know, imma put that in the doc of painting tips I have.

>> No.17789685

Can you not see Space Wolves normal colour?

>> No.17789687

I mostly am suspicious as the minis in that picture look unpainted. Perhaps I am secretly colorblind as well.

>> No.17789699

Speaking of which: Has anybody ever used Vallejo inks? I have the fleshtone shader, green shader, black shader, and umber (brown) shader. Wondering how/if I should use them. I have a basic idea, but I'd just like to be certain before I use them, y'know?

>> No.17789704

Nah, I know they were grey once upon a time, then they went a sort of robin's egg blue, and now they're kinda on the fence between the two.

>> No.17789710

Those would be ugly as fuck Necrons.

>> No.17789712

That looks... REALLY good.

Would you recommend that for this tau commander, /tg/?

>my commander, he is a CHAR

Also does anyone know the best method for REMOVING flock on the base? I just realized that putting brown gravel/dirt and then bits of snow on top of that looks WAY better.

>> No.17789726

That's the joke. Though if you used neon green, orange and purple you'd have Maximum 80's Toy Necrons

>> No.17789735


>> No.17789742

god FUCKING DAMNIT AIF ASDFjawepgjnerignripn
I'm horrible at painting and I decided to make an Ork army as my first.
I'm having a lot of fun building models and all, but jesus christ. I can only paint the skin and weapons, once that's done I don't have the ability to paint anything else
They're just a bunch of Carl Sagan's Running around.
I'm going to try a few myself, but have you guys had any experience with having other people paint models for you?

>> No.17789748

Maximum 80s Crons sound kinda awesome actually...

>> No.17789760

Here, imma post two more pics of just one of the guys so that my iphone isn't bugging out trying to focus on both. One with flash one without.

>> No.17789763

now without

>> No.17789819

Ork + Lighter fluid = Hilarious

>> No.17789832

Every Ork army needs a THE RED ONE.

>> No.17789846

Badrukk is the best Warboss stand-in. I hope next Ork codex makes him more usable.

>> No.17789859

These guys are so fucking cool jesus christ fighting a skeleton with a flaming sword god damn so boss.

>> No.17789927

Bumping in hopes of help and more people posting there stuff.

>> No.17789932

This Thread has inspired me to make an Eldar Army
Of Banshees

>> No.17789941


>> No.17789950

not him, but lighter fluid would probably melt and discolor the plastic a bit. Take a look at the ork's left arm.

>> No.17789976

Well I think I could post some of my high elves. Warhams fantasy is fine too?

>> No.17789985

I'll bump to that. I wanna see some sweet models that arent shitty 3DS quality photos like mine.

>> No.17789995


>> No.17790004

Only meant for a single period, not two.

>> No.17790012

Has anyone tried painting some Corsairs of the Dark Elves?

>> No.17790019

Currently varnishing the figures mounted on the plastic caps.

>> No.17790020

A fantasy is fine too.

>> No.17790040


>> No.17790096

looks like green stff,aka looks like emerald

>> No.17790114

Only the upper six models in the picture are varnished.


Like what exactly?

>> No.17790153

They are not glossy at all... even with flat varnishes my models still have a little shine on them that pisses me off but yours look so smooth and clean and exactly how i want mine to look

>> No.17790197


>> No.17790204

>> No.17790226

>> No.17790248

>> No.17790291

I had the same problem when I was using Vallejo matt varnish, which wasn't really matt at all.

I'm using 'Daler Rowney Soluble Varnish Matt Acrylic' now, after reading about it on the Steve Dean forums.
Just stir it for about 30 seconds and than shake it for a minute before use.
Gives a perfectly matt finish and I never had a single problem with 'frosting' either.

>> No.17790300

>> No.17790310


>> No.17790334

>> No.17790345

>> No.17790347

>> No.17790353

>> No.17790356

Aand that's about it.

>> No.17790371

OP here. I've been staring at these two guys sense I finished their main color. I just read GW's "How to Paint A Space Marine" again and I'm considering on trying the drybrush technique to the green and then applying an ink to it. The inks I have are Vallejo's green shade, umber (brown) shade, black shade, and fleshtone shade. Just wondering how I would do the ink and which one I should do (I think it may be obvious green) or if I should do more than a single ink color. Also, should I dry brush first then ink or the otherway?

>> No.17790418

Here's some Iron Warriors. Painted these when I was about 14 (5 years ago), hence why whilst they're not too shabby they're missing cool newer bitz. I took a few years out of the hobby so it would probably take me a while to get back to this level. Since they're shiny the pictures aren't brilliant either.

I haven't had a decent camera in ages, I'll have to get some shots of my grey and bright orange Tau.

>> No.17790432



Fuck you, man

>> No.17790445


>> No.17790461

One of five Obliterators I made around a similar time out of the SM terminator kit, since the CSM wasn't out yet.

>> No.17790476

>> No.17790485

Okay, you're guys are awesome. And this one? This one is just over the top. I love it.

>> No.17790492

The Basilisk, now not useable of course...

>> No.17790500

CSM used to be able to use Basilisks?

>> No.17790513

Little bit more recent, about two years ago. Some Thousand Sons "on loan"

>> No.17790517

I would apply the wash first which gives shading, and then do the drybrushing for highlighting.

Vallejo washes are stronger pigmented than their GW counterparts in my experience, which is why I usually delude them even more with a bit a water before use.
And yes, try the green wash first.

>> No.17790526


Iron Warriors got one less fast attack, one additional heavy support, and the option to take Basilisks and whatevertheSpaceMarineRhinovarientwiththeDemolisheronitiscalled.

>> No.17790551

Did this a few days ago

>> No.17790557


Just Iron Warriors, back then different legions had a bit more difference between them in rules. They were like the SW/BA/GK of the day in that everyone thought they were overpowered (they were). IW could also could swap two (redundant anyway) Fast Attack slots for Heavy Support ones.

Obliterators were nastier (more weapons) and tougher so you just spammed them, had minimal squads since not just Troops could capture markers, and took a nasty Daemon Prince.

>> No.17790572

My 1k Sons Sorceror. Proud of him and how well the "spell" coming out of his hand holds

>> No.17790575

That looks fantastic, man!

>> No.17790576

Alright, how much would you suggest I water it down?

>> No.17790584


Staff is a Thunder Hammer with an Empire Wizard's staff on top. Added some length of plastic rod to it too IIRC.

>> No.17790588

Those are nice, these are my WIP Oblits

>> No.17790594


>> No.17790601

>Alright, how much would you suggest I water it down?

As much as you can. Think skim milk or grape juice.

>> No.17790605


Jesus, is it magnetised or pinned?

Looks like something classic from the Lizardmen range.

>> No.17790610

Just a little bit, maybe 3:1 Paint Water.
I don't have the Vallejo green wash though, if it deludes the effect to much you can still go over the miniature with the pure wash after the first one has dried.

>> No.17790616

The cutest little fella I ever made, chassis is two of the CoD "boilers"

>> No.17790621


Araldite super-strong glue, that's all

>> No.17790679

This guy was a test for my Tau army, which is currently just being knocked out as quick as I can.

>> No.17790723

>moot in charge of paying for servers

>> No.17790817

Dear God people! Learn how to paint!

>> No.17790852

I'm trying!

>> No.17790864


Implying leaning isnt a process that you perform over time.

Sorry we arent all blessed star-childeren that sprang from the womb with god given perfection.

>> No.17790896


>mfw most of the models in this thread are well painted
>mfw this guy isn't even a troll, just sad and alone.

>> No.17790997

My Blood Angels rhino.
Got moar stuff to put together and paint

>> No.17791025

dirty sombiatch

>> No.17791040

First 28mm models since having eye surgery. Pleased with the way they came out considering.

51st Highland Division Scottish seperatists for 1938:VBCW

>> No.17791046

Chapter Champion, meant to be a show piece, may be painted tomorrow, I got a Newcron Cryptek and a Setinal to be painted and assembled.

>> No.17791066

that was painted a few years ago, and left on a shelf. My BA army was more dark BA than Bright blood.

>> No.17791068


Nice, I like them, care to tell me more about the game?

>> No.17791070


Ok, so who are you on http://gwargamesp.18.forumer.com/index.php?showforum=4 so I can steal your secrets to good looking models?

>> No.17791104


Alternative history 1938 Britain, a civil war occurs when Edward VIII refuses to abdicate over his marriage to Wallis Simpson. The Anglican Church opposes this, the government falls apart and Oswald Moseley becomes Prime Minister at the request of the king. Liverpool declares itself a free state (backed by Soviets), Wales, Scotland and Cornwall all want independence and it all goes to hell in a handbasket!

(The main game forum)

>> No.17791114


Its not really a game as such, more of a setting. There are no official models for it. So choose your own models, choose your own rules.
Basically its a "What if" universe, where the what if is "What if King Edward VIII had not abdicated"
And what you get is fascists, Scots and Welsh separitists, the Church arming up, Commies and men with pipes. Lots of pipes.

Fraid Im not on the forum old bean. I should be really though.

>> No.17791120


Oh and thank you for the kind words to a blind old man

>> No.17791146


I suggest you toddle along, your stuff looks very nice and there are some other Scots players on there that would be glad to see you.

How are the Artizan models, incidentally? Tempted by the fella with the kilt/Thompson for my 'Pan-Celtic Legion', our gaming group is just getting in to it and we're going to base it on our part of Wales.

>> No.17791327


>> No.17791347


Theyre nice. Not the most detailed models ever but theyve got a lot of character, will certainly purchase more

>> No.17791380


Will have to make an investment in that case, thank you for that my fellow VBCW-er! Hope to see your stuff on the forum some time soon, not so sure the fellows on there even know /tg/ exists!

>> No.17791465


>> No.17791533

One more, a little detail.

The 51st were nicknamed The Highway Decorators (HD: Highland division) and The Ladies from Hell
I chose them because an ancestor of mine was in the 51st, Private Charles Melvin, who won the VC in the 1st world war.
Look him up, he was pretty crazy. He never thought he deserved the VC he got.

>> No.17791544

My fave Librairan, used a Chief Librarian Ezekiel model and removed the Dark Angels banner.

>> No.17791568


Pic related, mistyped verification first time thanks to hoof hands

>> No.17791586

And my Ares. Before you mention it, the Dark Angels emblems are there because the Dark Angels were the designers of this Land Raider model, and I figured it was fitting to retain some recognition for them.

>> No.17791607

Love the model. I was there the first/last time you posted it and the DA emblem caused a lot of butthurt.

>> No.17791639


Hooooo boy. Lets see how this one pans out...

>> No.17791645

How much did that cost? Looks epic!

>> No.17791697

Hey, should I use a straight up white or a bleached bone white to lighten up a color to use it as a highlight on the same, unchanged, color?

>> No.17791701

Well, it cost:

1 x Land Raider Kit £40
1 x Vindicator kit - £30
1 x Crusader weapons sprue (for the assault cannons, can't get Crusader Land Raider because you need the Lascannon sponson mounts) - £12
1 x Land Raider reinforced armour kit - £20

So all-in-all it cost about £102, but since you can also make a Rhino from what's left, you can deduct the £20 a Rhino costs. So about £80-something.

>> No.17791716

Oh and I forgot to mention, you'll need 4 heavy flamers from a Baneblade kit, fortunately for me a friend gave me 4 of his.

>> No.17791748

I don't know if you're still here, but I need your advice (or anybody else's) on inks and drybrushing and such. I'd like to try and do a sort of tattoo on the armor with a blue paint, and I can't decide where I should do it inbetween the main color, the ink, and the highlighting drybrush. I've been looking at this sight and this is what I'd like to do, both on the flesh and the armor. http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:http://www.wiltrichs.com/tutorials/painting-tat

>> No.17791774


Wow, that is impressive. Hope your VCBW fellas achieve just as much!

>> No.17791815

Definitely after the drybrushing, which is more messy and not very precise.
I wouldn't do it before applying the wash either, which will tone down the paint.

Painting freehands is btw. not exactly a easy thing to do, even for more experienced painter.

>> No.17791834

hmm, might be a project for when I have my own place...

>> No.17791845


Whats even more impressive is that two other guys from the same village, Kirriemuir, also won the VC. I believe this makes it the settlement with the highest proportion of VCs per head in Scotland, possibly the UK.
Charles is on the right here

>> No.17791859

Alright, I know it's a difficult thing to do but I'd like to take a swing at it. Why not, right?
Do you think I should apply any other washes to the mini when I've gotten all the brass, furs, and all that done? I also have a brown ink, a black ink, and a flesh ink.

>> No.17791869

Hey, if you like Scots and also happen to like WH40k, check these out. http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/240539.page

>> No.17791905


Funnily enough I painted up some Scottish themes SMs a few years ago. They sucked compared to these.
Good times.

>> No.17792134

bumping. Hoping somebody can answer my questions about mixing a color for highlights and whether I should use multiple inks.

>> No.17792323

>Black and Red and Blue
Just as a /co/mrade, generally you don't want to have black and red unless your army is from a charred hellworld or a batman book, and black/red/blue can be a bad combination just from the really toyetic feel that blood red and ultramarines blue can give.

If you're dead set on black/red/blue, I would suggest actually using space wolves grey, a really light blue, to give your army more contrast. That way you have one dark color (black) one medium color (blood red) and one light color (space wolves grey) to really make the army pop.

In fact I kind of recommend that to everyone, design your units around three core colors, one dark, one medium, and one light. Skin can count as the light in most cases.

Really, I encourage you all to take a look at how superhero characters are designed, color wise, and take inspiration from either superhero comics, older gundam shows or other works with colorfully designed characters when it comes to picking colors for your army.

>> No.17792528

Alright, here are the two guys after I finally manned up and put the green ink on them. First layer was a ink/water mix of 3/1 and the second layer I just added 2 drops of the ink to the pallete because it didn't seem dark enough. first pic without flash.

>> No.17792552

Second pic with flash.

>> No.17792565

Ooh, does anyone use UV paints on their models so that they glow under blacklight?

>> No.17792568

Forgot to mention that I don't really see much difference until I used the flash, and even then I don't know if that's what I really want it to do. Makes it look a bit more like a goblin green or something...

>> No.17792584

I wouldn't be surprised if someone somewhere has. Probably only did it on the trim and details rather than the main colors though.

>> No.17792599

>red black and blue don't work


>> No.17792611

No...Fuck Dah Poe-Leese!

>> No.17792612

Well sure but it would look great if done right.

>> No.17792618



>> No.17792639

>Didn't go on to read that I recommended red, black and light blue

calm down and read the rest of the post rather than the first half a sentence.

>> No.17792661


Hey woad paint marines guy, I remember you from my Super Dungeon Explore minis painting thread. How's it coming? Since the thread is done I laid my trip down in the halls of my venerated ancestors, where it waits in darkness to be needed again....its power is too grave to use lightly.

>> No.17792679


No I did read that though I still disagree and personally think red black and space wolves grey would look phenomenally worse.

Not to say contrasting colours don't look good. Just that the contrast between red, black and any kind of light blue fits poorly.

>> No.17792696

Well, I've finally stopped putting painting off and have been dedicating time to it. Got an entire squad primed black and now I'm using two dudes as practice. Finished painting the two's main color of emerald and now I'm working on the ink. Dunno if I like the way it looks though. What do you think?

>> No.17792740


Neither or either, depending. You want to think about what color you're highlighting, how bright you want it to be, and if you want any change in color between the base color and the highlight.

Pure white will be a more obvious, clear highlight that's colder/cooler. Bone or similar will give a softer, less-clean, less-obvious highlight which is also warmer.

A good rule of thumb is to highlight cool colors with white and warm colors with offwhite/bone. And just remember that an offwhite is also yellower usually.

Of course, you can just use premixed lighter colors in a pot, most miniatures paints have those anyway.

>> No.17792799


Well from what I can see the paint looks nice and smooth and the color looks ok. You need to take the pics under a better light or by a window (preferably on a hazy overcast day or through some white blinds or curtains, not direct light. Obviously you have to take what light there is, but that's the ideal.

When you say you used 2/3 water and paint or whatever, bear in mind you don't want paint to be so thin that it runs or drips freely. Just thin enough to be smooth and not clump or cake on. Just add a drop of water every so often to keep it flowing smoothly (I have to do this constantly b/c my room here is heated with damn space heaters and is dry as fuckall, your mileage may vary).

But hey that's why you do test models, to iron this all out before committing to a ton of figs or anything important or expensive. Hereafter refered to as PROTOTYPES.

>> No.17792957

Well, would you call the emerald green I'm using a cool color, or a warm color? I think it's cool. I was planning on mixing the whichever white color was suggested with some of the emerald and using that color as a highlight. The mix I was using for the paints was 2/1 paints/water. As for prototypes, that's what I'm doing. just starting with two dudes, not even doing heads, arms, backpacks, etc. on them.

>> No.17793069


The pictures aren't brill but they're more Dark Grey, Bright Orange and Turquoise, inspired by Metal Gear Solid which had some stealthsuits like this.

>> No.17793133

>paints great looking minis
>walls are unpainted

could u please explain OP?

>capcha: semento

>> No.17793139


Green can usually go either way, a pure green (like fresh grass) is about half cool blue, half warm yellow. I'd see what other colors will be on there and then decide. If there is a lot of warm brown leather and red hair and flesh colors, go cooler to contrast.

I assume by "colorblind" you mean red/green colorblind. It's shockingly common, some people don't even know they have it until late in life, how that can be possible, I have no idea. Doesn't a stop sign or traffic light cause you to notice something's odd?

SPECIAL BONUS FACT: humans and a few other primates are the only mammals that can see red/blue color differences rather than only blue/yellow differences, or just monochromatic.

Most animals that see at all, see in black and white or just shadows and light. Humans and (IIRC) a few other apes can see red/green. So can some birds.

Butterflies can see all colors including colors WE CAN'T EVEN SEE. Lovecraftian horror colors that we can only imagine, or see if we are on Slaneeshi senso-drugs. They call it the "visible spectrum" but it really is the "pathetic meatbag humans' visible" spectrum. THE MOAR U KNOW.

>> No.17793155


Time correctly delegated?

>> No.17793160

DAMNIT! Now I can't read that without assorted dinosaur noises in the back of my mind...

>> No.17793180

Well, thank you. My mah has been trying to get me to paint the house again but whenever she brings it up i just get real quite and make faces at her 'till she leaves.

>> No.17793242


Does this help, meowth?

>> No.17793256

Well, the colors I'm planning on using are emerald for the main color, bronze for most metals, ruby red for any of the stones and gems that the space wolves have, a (mid)night blue for the woad tattoos, bones/teeth done normally, furs done with more of a focus towards brown, straps and belts and such in a leather brown, skin will be a bronzed fleshtone, and hair will be all over the place with browns, blacks, reds, and maybe the occasional limed blonde.

>> No.17793329


I'd keep the green a cooler green then for contrast. Highlight with more bluish greens or white, not yellowish greens (like snot green for instance, that would be bad).

>> No.17793364

mfw I noticed most of the models posted up until your comment weren't even painted at all.

>> No.17793399

So I ought to highlight the emerald green with a mixture of emerald green and plain ol' white?

>> No.17793491


Or some paler blue-green. I don't remember the names of GW paints offhand but maybe jade Green? Try a few things on the prototype models to see which one you like.

>> No.17793537

Sprayed Black painted some details blue and metal some tracks. Easy as fuck.

>> No.17793602

Excuse me...but why're you painting in your bathroom? And I'm using Vallejo colors for painting these guys, maybe you know those colors better. And lemme give you a list of all the colors I have right now, maybe I can use one of them. Dead White, Bonewhite, Night Blue, Emerald, Chainmail Silver, Black, Scorpion Green, Goblin Green, Bronze Fleshtone, Sombre (Shadow) Grey, Leather Brown, Black ink, Green ink, Brown ink, Fleshtone ink, and Ruby red by Coat D'arms. Planning on going to my LGS to pick up Bronze and maybe a few other paints if you recommend any.

>> No.17793898

What paint(s) would you fellows use for wood colour of gun stocks?

>> No.17793902


>> No.17794411

Okay /tg/, tell me honestly, how do the two bases on the left look?

The paint actually looks pretty good under normal lighting, the flash really hurts it.

>> No.17794539

without flash

goddamn my room is dark

>> No.17794558


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