[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / g / ic / jp / lit / sci / tg / vr / vt ] [ index / top / reports / report a bug ] [ 4plebs / archived.moe / rbt ]

Due to resource constraints, /g/ and /tg/ will no longer be archived or available. Other archivers continue to archive these boards.Become a Patron!

/tg/ - Traditional Games

View post   

[ Toggle deleted replies ]
[ERROR] No.11389617 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Het /tg/, quick question- Anyone ever use "cheap" paints, like Apple Barrel and Americana brand stuff? I saw some over at the local Michael's, and thought they might be worth a shot, but I'd like to get some opinions before I commit to a ton of paint I might not even use. Thoughts?

>> No.11389637



Dammit, I hate typos.

>> No.11389789

I use apple barrel for testing paint schemes, give it a try if you dont like how it turns out it washes off fairly easily.

>> No.11389871

bump for intrest

>> No.11390030

Are you kidding? Absolutely

Some people claim that shelling out for GW-cost paints is the only way to paint a good miniature. While, certainly, the paint may be a bit better for blending and the like, I have never had any issues with using cheapies found at various dollar stores.

They are just as well for flat basecoats, and the like. This is especially so if you're just starting out and already know that shit like Dry-blends, Wet-blends, etc etc are beyond your skill level. They work just fine for the oft-looked-down-upon-by-elitists Drybrushing, and even simple paint washes work decently when using them.

Exhibit A: made primarily with Painters' Acrylic brand paints, with a splash of Reaper, here and there.

Process was Basecoat Cheapy-acrylics, Full-mini GW Wash, Repaint panels with cheapies, apply highlights as mixture of cheapies.

Time consuming to be sure, but the result isn't as bad as some make it out to be.

>> No.11390059


Oh god those are the most hideous mechs I've ever seen!

>> No.11390072

GW paint is SHIT except foundation and wash

I hear people swear only by AB paint. but if you're not satisfied, use simple green

oh and you can also use $1-3 spray cans and some wood stainer too

>> No.11390082

man battletech minis look like ass.

>> No.11390114


>> No.11390821

I tried these out once, since they're dirt-cheap at nearly ever Wal-Mart I've been to. They seemed to do just as well as Citadel paints, but the finish was flatter. It wasn't really noticeable until you set a Citadel and AB painted model next to one another, but the Citadel models are quite a bit glossier.

I think this is a complete non-issue if you use a proper finish coat.

>> No.11390827 [DELETED] 

You're not a /b/tard. /b/tards have worse spelling and usually stink of faeces and failure. You're just a fa/tg/uy pretending to be a /b/tard for trolling purposes.

>> No.11390837 [DELETED] 

>Tripfag thinks he is entitled to an opinion

>> No.11392107

Alright, thank you /tg/, I think I'll try them out. Flatness shouldn't be an issue, but I'll be sure to deal with it. Thanks for the input, and sorry for the late reply!

>> No.11392749

That's partly why I'm not that big a fan of the Citadel stuff.

Mind you, I really like their metallics if I want to get a really chrome finish, but they're best reserved for that role. Otherwise, especially when painting 'mechs up, I like my paints to be as flat as possible.

>> No.11392854

Is there any particular type of cheap brand /tg/ recommends? I assume the non-glossy stuff?

>> No.11392860 [DELETED] 

not really.
yea, it will be fucking tall, thats kinda the point.
its main purpose is necrominda use, so there wlil be plenty of bridges attached anyawy, this piece will be connected with various other terrain pieces, using modular bridges, pic related.

>> No.11392968

I use cheap paints form Micheal's and Walmart all the time. I stick to using GW paints for most of my small details but I start with a Apple barrel black that I thin as my base coat then continue from there.

The big thing is to make it really thin, sure it will make it so you'll need more coats but if you want to keep the model's details the paint needs to be thin.

I tend to stick to citadel for metallic paints and washes.

>> No.11392984 [DELETED] 

For 4 bucks?

Go for it man, wyh the fuck not.

Should be an interesting read.

>> No.11392988

Make it with the same mateirals used in those crates from mass effect and youg ot yourself some indestructible armor.

>> No.11393002 [DELETED] 

The perfect response to this accordin gto a spambot?

>> No.11393009

Uh... rules for combat and skills? It's your game, why ask us to come up with stuff for you?

>> No.11393012

>> No.11393021

I agree with this bot.

>> No.11393025

OP, there is nothing wrong with Americana, Delta Ceramcoat, or most FolkArt. But with most paints, I like to give them a good shake in the store and make sure the paint isn't too thick or watery.

I only use two GW paints anymore - Black Ink and Chainmail. Chainmail is only for my Warmaster High Elf Army, and Micron's 0.2mm pens are steadily replacing my inks and washes.

>> No.11393047


Thin them like fuck. Got it.

>> No.11393058 [DELETED] 

Wel lif threes anything wiht ECM of his own he can set that to ECCM to counetr thta C3net-braeker bubble.

>> No.11393066

They're okay for larger surfaces but I prefer actual miniature paints for their finer pigments and saving time with good coverage and not having to do 100 layers because they need to be thin even more than miniature paints.

>> No.11393129

There's not really any huge difference between cheap brands of acrylic paint and expensive GW-esque brands. They tell you that the model-makers brand is better to get you to buy it.
Truth is, Apple Barrel works just as well and is much cheaper. The colours might dry a little darker than you had hoped over the undercoat, but that's easy to fix just by putting on another thin coat.

>> No.11393158

There is a huge difference is the concentrate and finest of pigment. Also better paints also use liquid pigment.

>> No.11393172

In addition model paints dry faster, making it easier to paint more layers faster.

>> No.11393215

yeah I like delta ceram coat paint I use the bright greens on my catachan guard army for all my tanks and stormtroopers to give the armor a sort of soviet summer camo feel to it

>> No.11393500

This is a Gneisenau from WotC's War at Sea Line. The darker gray is FolkArt, the lighter gray and white are Delta Ceramcoat, and the rest are Americana.

>> No.11393550

>people think GW paints are worth a damn

vallejo or P3 is best

>> No.11393586

pic related

>> No.11393621

I use Apple Barrel almost exclusively. Other than a few issues with two bottles several years ago (the paints ended very thick and glossy), I've actually had very good performance from them. They dry very quickly, go on very thin, and for the most part actually have a good pigment level. Some of the lighter colors will require a few coats if there's a dark layer underneath, but due to their thin nature, you won't lose detail if it takes three or four coats to get the consistent color.

Additionally, if you take care of the paints (No excessive heat, close them up right away) they can last several years. If they do start to dry up, they first develop a sort of goopy consistency, but you can actually pour in water, shake the bottle, and you've just reconstituted your paint.

They generally cost about $1 US, though I have seen them go up to $2 for the 2 fl.oz. bottle. Most generic crafting stores will have a wide variety. Combined with the low cost, it's easy to collect very specific shades, making it easier to reproduce a specific color, even if you do find yourself having to mix it.

The main limits of these sorts of paints have to do with drying time and pigment content. While they dry quickly, this means you cannot employ advanced wet blending techniques. They do make an "extender" to mix in to lengthen the drying time, but in my opinion, it negatively impacts the "thinness" of each coat of paint.

The pigment content, though sufficiently uniform for basic brush applications, does not dilute uniformly. This means they do not perform as well for washes and ink-style applications. This also means they do not work well in airbrushes, so for large flat areas, you are limited to brushes, which even with the thin coats can still lead to brush textures.

>> No.11393649

Wow that looks like shit

>> No.11393657

Not sure if it's a case of THIN YOUR PAINTS or actually poor model, I know those are pre-painted and sort of rubber-plastic so it could be low-detail from the start.

>> No.11393685

Did you paint it before or after you gooped on about an inch of clay all over it?

>> No.11393710

It's probably just psychological, but I like the color choices Apple Barrel and other more "standard" paint companies put out. The selection isn't overly weighted toward grimdark, which makes it easier for me to visualize and mix the exact colors I want.

>> No.11393778

It's a 1:1800 model, and the superstructure is pretty warped. Here's what the original model looked like.


>> No.11393791

>cheap acrylics for model painting
>acrylics for model painting

>> No.11393885

>Citadel paints aren't acrylics

>> No.11394366

>He doesn't use acrylics

Name (leave empty)
Comment (leave empty)
Password [?]Password used for file deletion.