Art Supply and Furniture thread

[Anonymous No.6904311]

Reminder that pic kinda sucks!
Sure it's kinda nice, but damn!
Anyways talk about what you're using, what you want, and ask any questions!

[Anonymous No.6904313]

And since it doesn't say anywhere, pic is the Soucolor 72 pack Soft series. I have it and it's cheap, both in price and quality. You might think Soucolor is more sophisticated than Crayola, but the latter is just plain better in terms of staying together.

[Anonymous No.6904962]

Are posca markers worth the cost?

[Anonymous No.6905748]

Anyone have any experience with Copic or Ohuhu?

[Anonymous No.6905767]

Caran d'Ache Luminance are the only colored pencils with good coverage I've used but they have their own issues. Polychromos are good too but the white pencil is a joke. It's a shame we never got Prismacolor in Europe.

>>6904962
Depends on the use, for covering ink drawings it's okay but they have an insanely small amount of ink.

[Anonymous No.6905774]

>>6905767

What issues do the Luminance have? I've been looking to buy a big set of them with a gift card I got for last Christmas. Also I don't know where in Europe you are but I know two European webshops that carry Prismacolor.

[Anonymous No.6905852]

>>6905774
You don't get a smooth shading it's like a crayon. I think they're made of oil instead of wax, I forgot which is which.

[Anonymous No.6905860]

>>6905748
Copic markers, yeah. They're good but it's hard to fuck up alcohol based markers, I think. Unless you make them $6.00 each...

[Anonymous No.6905863]

Don't be an idiot with your art supplies and have a good day, trad chads. Digital artists can fuck off.

[Anonymous No.6906420]

In the context of watercolor and gouache, is cleaning brushes a meme?
I keep forgetting to clean my brushes afterwards, mostly because I’m painting intermittently throughout the day, so I usually just rinse them in the painting water jug and forget about them, sometimes not even that.
I feel bad about it, like I’m ruining them, but I never notice them getting damaged or anything

[Anonymous No.6906455]

Stickybones are supremely expensive, holy shit!

[Anonymous No.6906471]

>>6906455
...but looking at the reviews for much cheaper mannequins and the various levels of dissatisfaction, I ought to save up.

[Anonymous No.6906492]

>>6906455
>>6906471
who the fuck uses a mannequin lmao

[Anonymous No.6906579]

>>6906420
Dunno. I've heard Sandra Hope (inker) said she just rinse her W&N Series 7 in water, use a bit of saliva to reshape it, and have kept the same brush for years.

But I've also heard other people said saliva destroy brushes.

Kind of a mystery. But I personally always clean my brushes.

[Anonymous No.6907556]

>>6906420
>>6906579
i've heard of some people say the soap is also for conditioning the hairs, not just removing dirt or medium in the case of oil or acrylic. some even use hair conditioners or shampoos

[Anonymous No.6907641]

Just buy a bottle of The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver.

[Anonymous No.6907724]

>>6906420
There is no reason to feel bad about it, you can always wash out everything completely at any time. The reason to wash them is to maintain clean colors, that's all. You should only be worried about mediums that dry permanently on your brush. Soaps are more likely to damage them, they are only useful for oil.

[Anonymous No.6908127]

I want to buy charcoal and pastel crayons, any brands I should look at?
I'm in Europe and they're not for pro stuff just for practice so the cheapest is good, it's not on good paper either.

[Anonymous No.6908275]

>>6907724
Not exactly true: drying paint can bend the hairs

>>6908127
Don't until you can handle graphite

[Anonymous No.6908348]

I’m using royal talents gouache which uses dextrin instead of gum arabic as a binder and I think I like it more than WN but it literally dries in seconds and is a bitch to get back to the right consistency.
Is there anything I can do to help that? I’m not really sure what I’m asking for, a drying retardant, adding some gum arabic or something? I just need it to be a bit more workable on the palette

[Anonymous No.6908410]

>>6908127
>>6908275
Bought Coates charcoal and Panda oil pastels.
Also bought some Gioconda artificial drawing charcoals for fun, not sure what they are.

[Anonymous No.6908766]

>>6908410
:shrug:

[Anonymous No.6909303]

>>6908348
glycerin

[Anonymous No.6910092]

Does anyone have the image of the wojak crying in front of his art supplies and screen tablet?

[Anonymous No.6910169]

>>6910092

[Anonymous No.6910199]

>>6910169
thank you

[Anonymous No.6910204]

>>6910169
>post it note
there’s the problem, he should have used 100% cotton paper

[Anonymous No.6910261]

Does anyone own a tilting table? What is it like/?

[Anonymous No.6910356]

>>6910261
it has its ups and downs

[Anonymous No.6910376]

>>6908348
Don't add gum arabic, it will make it glossy and the layers won't sit well under the glossy gouache.

[Anonymous No.6910492]

>>6910204
fr everything that wojack has is just starter gear. even cotton paper is barely passable. certainly not BiS.

[Anonymous No.6912333]

>>6908275
for natural hairs, there is hope that if put the bristles in hot water, it will come out straight and handsome again.

[Anonymous No.6912437]

>>6912333
Good to know, thanks

[Anonymous No.6912486]

>>6912437
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kD0QYA717pk
here is longer info. i've heard/read it can harm synthetics but don't have the source for that. interestingly, natural hairs/pelts are boiled before making brushes.

[Anonymous No.6913179]

unconventional art tool, the pet heat pad! I use it for my wax color pencil, it beats pressing hard to color. I got the idea from this video
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeC9xYoB1-s
she is using a flimsy heat pad which is not very safe. instead, I use K&H heat pad it feels much sturdier and safer to draw on top

[Anonymous No.6913655]

>>6909303
Thanks anon, that seems to be doing the trick.
Any tips on ratios or anything to be careful of?

[Anonymous No.6913692]

>buy a couple of new inks
>best one turns out to be, of course, the most expensive one
Over 20 bucks for 50ml but since it's archival ink it should last for decades if not centuries on paper.

[Anonymous No.6913710]

>>6913179
That's too convoluted for me, I like using transparent gesso for a stronger tone with colored pencils.

[Anonymous No.6913713]

>>6913692
What inks?

[Anonymous No.6913720]

>>6913713
Here's my latest haul of supplies. I've been using sketch ink from Rohrer & Klinger which was alright but still not great. So I got some more from that manufacturer. The dokumentus ink is the one that seems A tier to me. But there are still more inks I wanna try because there might be one out there that is even better.

[Anonymous No.6913728]

>>6913720
>5x5cm
what do you do with those? I like miniatures

[Anonymous No.6913730]

>>6913728
Gonna make the tiniest of illustrated books. I'm going to become the next Gorey and no one can stop me :'^)

[Anonymous No.6913738]

>>6913720
I have a 1litre bottle of the ink on the left, I think it's just plain drawing ink, it's quite glossy but the flow is nice. Never seen the dokumentus, seen the sketch but it seemed like a gimmick. Top ink is Dr. Ph Martin Black Star but is ridiculous expensive.
Talens is ok, all Talens products are like that, not bad, not amazing, just good quality artist's grade.
I want to try W&N indian ink next.

[Anonymous No.6913746]

>>6913738
W&N and Talens I found alright but they didn't blow me away. Dokumentus is archival ink and I like the way it flows and looks like when dried. It also should last for decades to centuries on paper.
I'll try out the Martin's ink as well. Thanks for the recommendation!

[Anonymous No.6913771]

>>6913692
Most ink can be archival. In fact under harsh conditions, some cheaper ink proved they are less likely fading than expensive ink. Only buy expensive ink for your expensive fountain pen.
If using dip pen, I suggest finding waterproof ink like Kuretake Black/Super black, Koh I Noor,...

[Anonymous No.6913777]

>>6913771
That archival ink conforms to the DIN standard. And I don't really mind expensive ink if it performs well. I want my stuff to last.

[Anonymous No.6913821]

>>6913746
Talens has indian ink and drawing ink, I honestly can't tell the difference, to me they're using the same formulation, indian ink should be pigment based and drawing ink should be dye base if I get it right.
Martin's looks luxurious, even the Hicarb has a matte finish, once dried it looks ultra dense.

[Anonymous No.6913823]

>>6913821
I'm not a fan of matte look for ink. I like a nice sheen but for a lot of inks I tried the sheen is irreguar and looks cheap.

[Anonymous No.6913827]

>>6913823
Hicarb has a light sheen, it's not glossy like rohrer-klingner indian ink, it's quite even but it depends on the concentration on the paper. Speedball Super Black is the most even ink I've used, it's not as black as others despite the name but you can't see the brush strokes, it looks like a photocopy or something like that.

Indian ink has a shellac medium, other inks may use an acylic medium, I don't know exactly the difference of drawing vs indian ink.

[Anonymous No.6913833]

>>6913827
I'm putting them on my to buy list to try out in the future.
I also don't really know what the differences are. All I know is I don't seem to like the indian inks. They also smell quite bad when they're cheaply made. The dokumentus ink seems to be pigment based. It dries really quickly as well.

[Anonymous No.6914222]

>>6913746
Pigmented inks (Indian inks in particular) are basically binder + soot ("charcoal"). That should easily last longer than the paper. Non-pigmented inks, that's another story.

[Anonymous No.6914502]

anyone recognise the brush or brand? I’m watching this guy’s videos and the brush seems exceptionally malleable, never seen anything like it, but I mainly use synthetics and hog’s hair, so that might be it

[Anonymous No.6914524]

>>6910356
Ba dum tss

[Anonymous No.6914527]

>>6914524
wat
https://youtu.be/SI6rj_ZPGSs?si=0gUJfYrig0n0tXH0&t=180
look at the hair painting segment, it turns from round to extremely thin flat brush and holds the shape amazingly well, he even uses it as a flat brush sideways and it still retains the shape

[Anonymous No.6914541]

I hate how much fun I discovered having sketching with col-erase colored pencils, just for them to discontinue most of the single colors.

Agony. Wish I knew sooner.

[Anonymous No.6914577]

>>6914502
The guy said it is a no name brand from china, it is made out of sheep's hair. so look for a calligraphy/watercolor brush made of sheep or goat hair.

[Anonymous No.6914605]

>>6914502
>>6914577
Yup, it's a "basic" Chinese brush. There's a wide variety of them (usually, the core has different hairs than the outside, so this adds to the combination), quality can go from shitty to okay, but the price is generally low.

[Anonymous No.6914651]

>>6914577
>>6914605
thanks, I saw he showed his paints and paper, but didn’t see anything on the brush

[Anonymous No.6914692]

>>6914527
These aren't the aliexpress chinese brushes but the principle is the same, they're really good if they're well made and complete garbage if they're of low quality.

[Anonymous No.6914709]

>>6914222
From what I read is that these kinds are often acidic and eventually dissolve the paper. Archival ink is not acidic.

[Anonymous No.6914724]

>>6914692
So which are some good ones?

[Anonymous No.6914747]

>>6914724
I think rosemary has some Japanese brushes (never tested them, but would trust the brand enough)

>>6914709
Hm, I've never heard of Indian inks being acidic. Perhaps cheap ones, but the ones sold by famous brands should be alright. We have century old Chinese paintings made with ink, at a time were they probably weren't as concerned with durability as we are now

[Anonymous No.6914755]

>>6914724
The brand ones like the Kuratake that cost a lot, or the Namura ones that cost 40 bucks just for a brush. The aliexpress brushes I've tried are terrible, the hairs kept shedding and the handle started to crack with the water, the japanese brushes are still in good condition and they didn't shed.

[Anonymous No.6915142]

>>6914541
Try the Bic Evolution or Staedtler Noris.
They're not marketed as eraseable but they're the closest to Col-Erase ime.

[Anonymous No.6915144]

Fellas, I went down to my usual art supply store and there was a new girl working there and I think I recognize her from somewhere. It's so frustrating not knowing where from. Might be from art highschool...
I kind of just want to go back there and buy some more art supplies just to ask her about it. Would it be weird?


>>6914502
that's a (probably) rabbit fur Chinese brush. I use one.
>>6905767
>but the white pencil is a joke.
I think they all are, on every set by every brand. I don't get it.
Highly recommend the as a replacement the "Derwent Drawing Pencil Chinese White". it's great.

[Anonymous No.6915149]

>>6914692
>These aren't the aliexpress chinese brushes

got this set for like 7€ and they are great. All natural furs

[Anonymous No.6915160]

>>6915149
You know your brushes are legit if they smell like farm animals

[Anonymous No.6915202]

>>6915144
say “ayyy girl didn’t we hook up that time”, girls love that stuff
t. sex haver

[Anonymous No.6915203]

>>6915149
>cropping off the article name in a supply thread
Post link.

[Anonymous No.6915209]

>>6915144
>cute girls at supply store
check your privilege
I got
>ranting old guy that avoids eye contact
>classy old guy that stocks exclusively dutch stuff for some reason (we’re not dutch)
>twitchy jacked manlet I’m sure is on drugs

[Anonymous No.6915386]

>>6915209
Every single clerk at my local art and stationery stores is a cute chick aged 18-26.
The weird dudes man the guillotine and printing service.

[Anonymous No.6915429]

can i roast calcium carbonate in a pan to make quicklime? most instructions say to have it in a furnace or in hot flame, but those are for chunks of calcium carbonate.

[Anonymous No.6915450]

Any oldtimers here who have used these acrylics before? I googled them and they seem to be a long discontinued line from Grumbacher from 20~ years ago. They sell for really cheap, like $4 a tube but I'm worried that I'd be disappointed. Most reviews though have said that their paints did not cake but thats only because they have opened their paints recently. Are these worth the buy?

[Anonymous No.6915617]

I just got the micron set ranging from .003 to 12 and pen range. Plus, I also got their manga line with the small brush and gelly roll. I love them so much. The jelly roll doesn't do as I expected, though... It'll sort of white out but not all the way.

[Anonymous No.6915720]

>>6915450
Old acrylics were better made but there's a serious risk of buying old acrylics because it's plastic plaint and if they're dried then they're done for, if they're sealed then they should be alright.

[Anonymous No.6917264]

>>6915720
Yeah in fact the Grumbacher paints were undisputably the very best acrylic paint back then. Grumbacher came from the 19th century cul-de-sac era of Europe, its prestige came from the technological fervor of that period. Well, until Sanford (who owns Rotring among many other familiar stationery brands) bought the rights to the brand and they gutted the artist grade range to cut costs. That's capitalism for you haha. Where do you even get a bottle of Series 5 Cobalt Blue for $5 these days...

[Anonymous No.6917553]

>>6917264
I've bought some vintage gouache and the quality is completely different from the modern brands, these are all artist's grade and the vintage gouache was much more buttery, very smooth, the pigments were much more rich, I've been trying to find a burnt sienna as good as the one from that vintage gouache lot I bought but no luck. Even premium brands today aren't as good as the old stuff but you can't be dependent of the old stuff as it will run out and you won't be able to buy again.

[Anonymous No.6918187]

any recommendations for a heavy duty .5 mechanical pencil? i break everything i touch

[Anonymous No.6918204]

>>6918187
Rotring 600

[Anonymous No.6918226]

>>6918204
the vintage rotrings are good, but ever since production moved from Germany to Japan rotrings are worse than chinese mechanical pencils, and for some reason this only happens with rotrings because every other mech pencil produced in Japan is awesome. I don't know where ppl get the idea that rotrings are good
>>6918187
pentel p205 can take a beating and will last forever if you don't lose it. Staedtler 925 if you want higher quality but idk about its durability

[Anonymous No.6918237]

>>6917553
I don't know why but most modern burnt siennas aren't really as good as it was back then. I'm reading an old book from the 70s about mixing colors and the guy's burnt sienna had such a beautiful rich earthy hue. The one I have from Liquitex just looks like junkyard rust tinged with some black paint LOL

[Anonymous No.6918247]

>>6917553
And most modern yellow acrylics apart from cadmium and lead chromate (beautiful but unusable because its sensitive to sulfuric compounds) are just plain garbage because none of them are naturally opaque. They're really good for watercolor however.

[Anonymous No.6918268]

>>6918187
zebra m-301

Bit short but I've used them for a long time. The ink pens are okay but write nowhere near as nice as a cheap pack of Bics, or two packs for the same price, but they are pretty solid too and cheaper than the pencils.

[Anonymous No.6918273]

What should I use to put whites back on top of black ink?

[Anonymous No.6918353]

>>6918273
white ink

[Anonymous No.6918355]

>>6918273
wash wel egge shelles with the skinnes within side remoued, and worke them vpon the stone, with distilled water. and the fresher they are the better. stir the poulder in a coppe of water, and pour off the water which suspendeth the finer particules to keepe, and let descend. and work the grosse particules againe on the stone, til it al be fine. let drie of himself, or, draening the water after the poulder descend, drie the dowe vpon a tile or a plaister brick. keepe it where dust will not touche it.
and whan you will use of it, temper it with the best gomme ammoniack, or ammoniacum, dissolued in cleare uinegre, strained. paynt with it. it commes out good.

[Anonymous No.6918419]

>>6918355
Ok, but what do I use to put it on top of black ink??

[Anonymous No.6918721]

>>6918226
Rotring didn't go to shit when they moved to Japan, they went to shit when they got acquired by Newell.
Then they moved to Japan and the japanese manufacturer has merely maintained the already lowered quality.

[Anonymous No.6918737]

>>6918273
short term/dont care about quality, just use white out. this is if you digitally scan and adjust values, etc. the white out yellows and looks like shit long term. kinda like how sharpies have shit ink quality and brown over time. if just want to splatter some stars on black or add some white back though, thats easiest. best is just be better inker and have the whites planned out. can tape over area before hand to prevent any ink getting on it or just better line control. there is white india ink you can use if you want a less crappy version of white out, but it will still look bad in person/noticeable to anyone that looks at it long enough or with discerning eye. but wont yellow like the white out. if have mixed media paper, gouache is also an option since its opaque but will be relatively 'thick' and 3 dimensional and stand out that you have a layer, even a thin one, on top.

[Anonymous No.6919757]

>>6918273
provided you didn’t fall for le printer paper meme, you can just scratch it out

[Anonymous No.6921636]

bump

[Anonymous No.6921884]

>>6904311
Small sharing.
I discovered today that the tinbox can help preserve colored pencils for longer. I bought 2 packs of Polychromos few years ago, put one pack into a pencil bag and keep one pack as it is. Today the ones in pencil bag have grown moss while the one in tin box still as good as new.
I hope it helped.

[Anonymous No.6922146]

Recommended sketchbooks with smooth paper? I just feel better using smooth printer paper with 2B pencils and would like to have a similar feel in sketchbooks. Books with some tooth is good for ballpoint for me, but need something for pencil.

[Anonymous No.6922162]

>>6922146
just bind printer paper, retard

[Anonymous No.6922852]

>>6921884
Say you live in Vermont or something.
Otherwise what the fuck miserable conditions do you live in that cedar wood not exposed to the environment grows moss?

[Anonymous No.6922891]

>>6922146
If you cant find a sketchbook like the one you want get bristol board and then do this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ue52htX3j0k

[Anonymous No.6924962]

Any of you guys living in India? How's the art supply down there? Say, can you easily buy Western oil paints?

[Anonymous No.6925968]

>art store guy tells me I might want to start making my own paint because the supply’s going to shit

[Anonymous No.6926091]

>>6924962
good afternoon sir! my cousin he made a small machine using a pipe, electric motor, and screw for pressing the oils out of seeds. usually he use for mastard but he also use for linseed from madhya pradesh. he made his paints for oil but now he stop because the police took all his mongoose brushes and now he is in jail.

[Anonymous No.6926104]

>>6926091
pants is hard job sir

[Anonymous No.6926125]

what’s the go-to color for monochrome paintings in watercolor?
I tried raw umber, and siennas, but they’re not dark enough, and I don’t like black

[Anonymous No.6926134]

>>6926125
Burnt umber should be a touch darker than raw umber. Neutral tints tend to be slightly purpleish.

> not dark enough
Shouldn't matter that much

>>6926091
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Anonymous No.6926136]

>>6926134
>Shouldn't matter that much
idk I feel like I run out of value, the raw umber feels a step darker than my toned paper out of the tube (I’m using white paper, just making a comparison)

[Anonymous No.6926174]

>>6926136
>idk I feel like I run out of value
Lots of paintings use a narrow value range, and you can always (it's a good exercise) learn to compress and shift your value range.

[Anonymous No.6926362]

>>6926125
payne's grey
generally greys and deep blues are my favorites for monochrome watercolor

[Anonymous No.6926380]

I joined an oil painting class

We can't leave anything but the canvases at the workshop. This is a retarded question but how do I carry my stuff there? How do I keep it organized? I was thinking on buying a regular plastic toolbox but I'd like to hear how do you store and organize brushes and paints and liquids like paint thinner

[Anonymous No.6926509]

What's your preferred way to use charcoal? Two of my General's charcoal pencils have broken leads and they're now unusable.

[Anonymous No.6927001]

>>6926136
there are complete drawings that use lower values, like red chalk or even metal point. umber should be sufficient for a monochrome painting.

[Anonymous No.6927098]

>>6918419
Vse a brushe as fyne, or with a quilll wryte withal. but certes it neuer cometh so prettily as whan the whyte be lefte unmarkt for beinge mayhap more raised and hauing more coolth it draweth attencion to the artificeres deceit. and sith to adde the whyte atop shews less skille and wisdome it is neuer held equally in esteeme, as the stone caruers are in greater esteeme held than the cley moulders are in due proporcion to their artes demaunds. curious it be that in hauing more arte yet the arte shews less the artificeres arte.
but whan the opvs will permit it, take a knife as the scriueneres use in rectifyinge their penn'd letteres, and scrape a littel of the surfais. if the opvs be on parchament, it is better done, or yf the ynke be made of particules, not the sorte which staineth the paper. if that be not anough than ply on the whyte inke of whych receit i have wrote.
but yf you want whyte to wholie couer the blacke, annoynt the part with the tempera of gomme ammoniacke or with tempera of egge glaire, to wit, the licqeure that remaineth in whippynge the albumen, and a litel honie with some of the egge white poulder. and yf the glaire has had occasion to purtrifie no tempera is more meete for this purpose. now whan is halfe drie, throwe, or daub with a soft drie brushe the poulder egge white vpon it. and duste off the exess as the gilders doe with leaf golde. you may after the while softlie burnyshe, plaising an other sheete betwixt the opvs and burnish. and so the poulder shall sit ouer the tempera, as the golde sits ouer the bole, and the whyte shall be more pure and without so grosse a relieve.

[Anonymous No.6927100]

>>6918419
Vse a brushe as fyne, or with a quilll wryte withal. but certes it neuer cometh so prettily as whan the whyte be lefte unmarkt for beinge mayhap more raised and hauing more coolth it draweth attencion to the artificeres deceit. and sith to adde the whyte atop shews less skille and wisdome it is neuer held equally in esteeme, as the stone caruers are in greater esteeme held than the cley moulders are in due proporcion to their artes demaunds. curious it be that in hauing more arte yet the arte shews less the artificeres arte.
but whan the opvs will permit it, take a knife as the scriueneres use in rectifyinge their penn'd letteres, and scrape a littel of the surfais. if the opvs be on parchament, it is better done, or yf the ynke be made of particules, not the sorte which staineth the paper. if that be not anough than ply on the whyte inke of whych receit i have wrote.
but yf you want whyte to wholie couer the blacke, annoynt the part with the tempera of gomme ammoniacke or with tempera of egge glaire, to wit, the licqeure that remaineth in whippynge the albumen, and a litel honie with some of the egge white poulder. and yf the glaire has had occasion to purtrifie no tempera is more meete for this purpose. now whan is halfe drie, throwe, or daub with a soft drie brushe the poulder egge white vpon it. and duste off the exess as the gilders doe with leaf golde. than remoue the white outside the parte annoynt with a cleyish masse of breade crommes. you may after the while softlie burnyshe, plaising an other sheete betwixt the opvs and burnish. and so the poulder shall sit ouer the tempera, as the golde sits ouer the bole, and the whyte shall be more pure and without so grosse a relieve.

[Anonymous No.6927196]

>>6926380
honestly i just threw everything in a bag. just be careful when you have glass stuff like glass palette which is a popular choice. for the brushes you can buy a roll, or make one pretty easily with some cloth.
i didn't bother with the thinner. i just use more brushes so i don't have to change colors for them.
have some paper towels or some rags too.

[Anonymous No.6927893]

Hey anons, does anybody else here like to make artworks with cheap / shity art supplies? I don't know but i feel so free and if i fuck up i don't feel so bad. Plus it push / encorage me to experiment.

[Anonymous No.6928760]

Is there any good fountain pen I can use for both writing and drawing?

[Anonymous No.6931449]

bump

[Anonymous No.6933781]

>>6927893
a thriftie receit for a blacke incke, at not mvch cost and most exellent, and proofe against spoiledge, and without the need of coperas.
take the waste rindes of poma granata, and brake them vnto piezes, and leaue them in raine water and ashes of wyne lees, a space of viij daies, in the sonne. yf the sonnes raies be hid by wintres sombre skie, leaue it a weeke.
now in other too uessals, separatelie prepaire one of distilled vineger, and the whyte of egge. and shalt not styr them but leaue them be. whan the egge whyte hath its form lost but rather seeming married himself into a ioynt substaunce with the uineger, now denser than the uinegares natiue thinnesse, yet more rare than the whyte of egges wonted densitie, strein it thro a lynnen clothe, without mouing. and in yet the other vessal, uineger withal the filinges of iron, or olde hookes whych are yet nothing goode, and cloues cracked under the pestel.
now in a caudron or pot, seethe the pome garnate rindes in its steeping licqeur, recitinge the iiij mysteries, addynge water againe whan euer the heate consumeth the water. then thro into it the uineger with the cloues and yronne whych haue steept, and lo, hastelie the liquor staineth himself blacke. and know that the longer you seethe them the blacker the yncke comes out. strain when it more then pleaseth you.
and for to brynge r it to the right and workynge temper and fluuium, pore the egge whyte-uineger to the blacke liqueure. you may thro some more alum faeces, viz. the ashes of wyne lees, or els salt petre. and so shalt thou haue atramentum without oake galles and without uitriol, nor yet gomme of arabij.

[Anonymous No.6933791]

These go hard

[Anonymous No.6933838]

>>6904311
What I want? A graphite pencil that is black with a thin core diameter.

Where I live, the shops have the Staedtler Mars Lumograph Black, and the Faber-Castell Pitt Graphite Matt, which have a thicker core than their normal counterpart

[Anonymous No.6933862]

>>6933791
I got one and was very pleasantly surprised, it actual takes watercolor very nicely for sketches, and it’s dirt cheap

[Anonymous No.6933957]

>>6933862
I think those are the same paper as Sakurai's (same format, same kind of cover). Washes shouldn't too wet, but yeah, that thing takes anything.

>>6933838
Why does a think core matter? Sharpen with a blade and sandpaper and it shouldn't matter.

[Anonymous No.6934170]

>>6933957
Using a blade and sandpaper is not practical, and even worse using them if not at home; without considering that, where I live, every kind of knife is illegal outside home.

I guess I'll get one of those sharpeners for long point, independently if I get a thin core pencil or not

[Anonymous No.6934178]

>>6934170
>where I live, every kind of knife is illegal outside home

What an absurd law.

[Anonymous No.6934190]

>>6934170
>Using a blade and sandpaper is not practical, and even worse using them if not at home
It's the less wasteful, cheapest, most versatile way of sharpening all pencils. It's quite a standard. You only need the blade to remove some decent amount of wood, and then use the sandpaper. When outside, you should only need the sandpaper.


> where I live, every kind of knife is illegal outside home
Which country? How do you buy knives? When I said blade, I really mean utility blade btw. A well-sharpened pencil is probably way more dangerous, as in, life-threatening, than a utility blade.

In my country there's a law preventing people to carry blade that could kill people (> 10cm or so), but small blades are alright.

[Anonymous No.6934214]

>>6928760
Yes chinese fountain pen Jihao or whatever is called with the G nib pen. With Pilot Carbon ink.

[Anonymous No.6934239]

>>6934178
Oh, there is more. If the blade is sharp on both sides, you need a firearms license, or you can't even keep it at home.

>>6934190
>Which country?
Italy. Most people believe that having a small knife (something like less than 5cm) is fine, but that is actually a sort of myth. Every knife can't be outside home.
>How do you buy knives?
... Every knife can't be outside home without a proper reason. A valid reason is: "I have just buyed it, and I am bringing it at home *shows receipt as proof*"
>I really mean utility blade
Any blade

[Anonymous No.6934273]

>>6918187
Twsbi Precision RT
The most vulnerable part is the lead sleeve and the heavy weight of non retractable "heavy duty" pencils work against themselves.
The twsbi's retractable sleeve is literally solid when extended unlike all the other retractables I've tried. picrel is my collection with my rating out of 10

[Anonymous No.6934383]

>>6934239
Seems like multitool/swiss army knife are tolerated enough. Just don't use it in front of everyone when you haven't bathed for 2 weeks and still wear that Halloween Joker make-up and that should be alright

>>6934273
I don't understand why. A 2mm clutch does all I ever wanted to do. Why.

[Anonymous No.6934406]

>>6934239
I sharpen my pencils with pic related, it small enough when held I honestly doubt anyone would even notice and you can just slip it into your wallet when not in use, so unlikely cops would even find it. Plus you use it for like 30 seconds a day, tops

[Anonymous No.6934410]

>>6934273
I find it difficult to draw with metal pencils because of the weight. I guess I have onions wrists.

[Anonymous No.6934780]

How in the fuck do I use a Gelly Roll?

[Anonymous No.6935113]

>>6934780
you can use the white jelly roll to highlight graphite drawings or toned paper. for ink, it can be used as a whiteout. they are generally for detail or accent colors/outlines but there is no correct way to use them.
>>6926509
same, mine is broken i think i will to grind it into powder and use the powder to fill large spaces.

[Anonymous No.6935136]

>>6935113
Thanks for the gelly roll advice. Figured out I was pressing into the paper too hard and it was mixing with the dried ink, so it needs a very light touch and it'll work much better.

[Anonymous No.6935176]

>>6934410
mech pencils just suck in general, literally the only reason to use them if you use rulers/curves a lot

[Anonymous No.6935209]

>>6935176
they're good for line art and no mess

[Anonymous No.6935227]

>>6935209
explain to me how using a pencil results in worse lineart or “mess”

[Anonymous No.6935234]

>>6935227
mechanical pencils have consistent lines and don't need to be sharpened

[Anonymous No.6935236]

>>6935234
it’s like you literally don’t even draw

[Anonymous No.6935241]

>>6935236
yup you dont throw wood and graphite everywhere and the dull point doesnt suddenly turn sharp when you sharpen a pencil

[Anonymous No.6935244]

>>6935234
That’s a fancy way of saying they have more limited capability and adaptability.
>>6935241
I can’t tell if this is sarcasm, but you don’t and it doesn’t.

[Anonymous No.6935254]

>>6906420
if you leave them in water, the glue binding the bristles will loosen and the brush will fall apart sooner. some natural brushes will be especially delicate. a brush can take a lot of abuse, though. i for one like the stroke of a slightly damaged, warped or dirty brush

[Anonymous No.6935346]

>>6935234
In my experience, with mechanical pencils, the line varies as the lead gets used. Which means you need to turn the thing regularly, or use is vertically. In the former case, a regular pencil or a clutch should provide an overall better experience

[Anonymous No.6935653]

>>6934383
Why I have so many? I like collecting them and holding a well made one turns me on

[Anonymous No.6935712]

>>6935653
I don't understand.

[Anonymous No.6935940]

I dont know if this is the right place to ask, what term(s) do I need to know on looking for gel like acrylic paint? I am using it for a simple thing, and the dollar general one is too thin and runny and whenever I smear over existing pain it just moves it and doesn't cover what I want covered originally. I guess thickness similar to pic related or maybe gel like?

[Anonymous No.6935947]

>>6935940
That's heavy body acrylics, you can get a thick matte medium for the impasto look like a gel medium, better to check on Liquitex their medium line.

[Anonymous No.6935958]

>>6935947
Thanks anon, I have a simple use, and I figured dollar general cheap stuff would work, but when I tried to use it, I just smear existing paint away instead of tryin to layer it and thicken it.

[Anonymous No.6935959]

>>6935958
okay im retarded and already explained this in my previous comment.

[Anonymous No.6936144]

>>6915203
>>6915149
Did a reverse image search they're on aliexpress
>Brush Chinese Brushes Calligraphy Painting Watercolor Pen Writing Set Ink Sumi Drawing School Supplies Practicing Bamboo

[Anonymous No.6938556]

Any recommendations for non-shit but cheap brushes for learning gouache?

Everyone just says get a dozen rando synthetics but thats like $80 from the local art store and 99% of the amazon listings are probably scams.

[Anonymous No.6938613]

Anyone spotted any decent amazon black friday deals?

[Anonymous No.6938637]

>>6938556

The dollar store here sells servicable synthetics, try some place like that.

[Anonymous No.6938663]

>>6938556
just get a size 6 or 8 and a size 2 rounds, pretty much any synthetic will do, get a cheap van gogh or something, they’re like 1 euro and they’re fine, gouache doesn’t really care, the brush just needs to not be too hard or too soft
once you get a hang of it, you’ll know what brushes you’ll need for larger paintings, but the 2 brushes are all you need for studies up to A4
optionally get a wide flat just to cover the paper if you’re applying a wash first

[Anonymous No.6938709]

>>6938556
https://www.dickblick.com/products/princeton-velvetouch-synthetic-brushes/
https://www.dickblick.com/products/princeton-snap-series-9650-golden-synthetic-brushes/

[Anonymous No.6939957]

>>6935176
mechanical pencils are great if you draw with lines mostly, such as doing hatches.
>>6935346
i just keep it in the same position, or i test out the what the line looks like on a scrap piece at whatever position to see if it will be thick or thin. it's not a problem once you learn how to manipulate the tool.
if mechanical pencil leads change line quality as it draws on the paper, then woodies have even greater inconsistency.

[Anonymous No.6940008]

>>6939957
>then woodies have even greater inconsistency.
With thicker/longer leads (like, 2mm width), you tend to use the side of it more (thinner leads can't be used this way too much, because they will tend to break, or to get used too quickly). Which keeps the tip sharp longer

The fine tip is only useful when rendering, where I think both mechanical and wooden should behave similarly, or for very precise mark making.

Again, this is true but for technical drawings.

[Anonymous No.6940526]

>>6940008
you can have point that lasts a few lines with a 2mm lead provided you draw mostly with the side or continually grind down the sides to a taper on a scrap paper or sanding block. it keeps the point sharper longer so long as you don't actually draw with the point much. that's not more consistency.
i can simply turn the mechanical pencil side ways so that i'm not drawing with the flat facet if i want a very sharp and darker line such as for accents. but even the flat facet of so thin a tool is good for line drawing since it's not a question of how sharp a tool is but how consistent the range is when you want to use it for line drawings. i vary the line from thick to thin with pressure for example. i can make consistent sets of hatches where the first stoke has the same quality as the last. the point turning into a chisel form is actually something one can deliberately do for consistency in line.
it's not only for technical drawings or very precise mark-making. western drawing tradition starts with pointed drawing tools or at last hard and thin enough that the lines are not broad. it builds an intuitive control of lines.

[Anonymous No.6940637]

>>6940526
Note that I consider a 2mm clutch equivalent to a wooden pencil. When I say mechanical pencils, I mean those .3 to .9 tiny leads. Not sure this was clearly understood.

>western drawing tradition starts with pointed drawing tools or at last hard and thin enough that the lines are not broad. it builds an intuitive control of lines.
Pierre Noire, Sanguine, Charcoal? All those are naturally bulky. Metalpoint is an exception.

Anyway, you do you, I'm just tired of those endless discussions

[Anonymous No.6941107]

Why does the Micron 08 always have a scratchy feel to it?

[Anonymous No.6941158]

>>6940637
>Not sure this was clearly understood.
it was.
>metal point is an exception.
lines gradually thicken as artists moved away from it, along with the quill, which shows it formative influence on western drawing tradition. sanguines were harder and even then were first continually sharpened (usually not by drawing with the side) to draw with the point. natural black chalk which was commonly used early is also harder on average than graphite. soft charcoal as we use today was originally for temporary and often fixed with a harder/finer drawing material. pierre noire is just a type of synthetic pastel/crayon which exist in different qualities using different recipes.
>you do you
i will. only point out you're exaggerating the inconsistency of mechanical pencils while understating that of thicker leads.

[Anonymous No.6941213]

>>6941158
> sanguine
https://cdn.kastatic.org/ka-perseus-images/209f16267cff7e017e715f74c9027c1fcc2f3015.jpg
https://medias.gazette-drouot.com/prod/medias/mediatheque/75159.jpg
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/Ej1ORlHXgAIm8Ac.jpg:large

For the fine hatching yeah, the tip is used, but there's plenty of thicker lines. Some broad hatching (grainage) is precisely done with the side of the sanguine.

> you're exaggerating the inconsistency of mechanical pencils while understating that of thicker leads.
Maybe. I'll try to practice more extensively with mechanical pencils, but I definitely stand by what I say regarding thicker leads

[Anonymous No.6942776]

>>6938556
you might only need two brushes, tops. mop brush for any washes you might try with the gouache (i use mine like oil paint, so washes arent something i do), and a flat brush.
unless youre painting flowers in a folk art style, you are unlikely to need a round.

[Anonymous No.6943319]

>”reading” frazetta’s rough works
>expect to see some mention of mediums used at least
>no mention of what medium I’m even looking at with any given image
>just fly-by idol worship memery praising him for using cheap paper, le #2 pencil, and literal mickey mouse branded watercolors like that’s a good thing
jesus christ, no wonder every scan of his work looks different, shit’s probably shifting into the invisible spectrum by now

[Anonymous No.6943350]

>>6943319
The obsession with lightfastness and shit is entirely new.
Most artists mixed their paints with whatever shit they had lying around. Egg, milk, breadcrumbs, coffee, blood, alcohol, car oil...
Modern illustrators and cartoonists also most likely trashed over 80% of their production.

[Anonymous No.6943379]

>>6943350
the “obsession” is at least 100 years older than frazetta, m8
people were calling turner a fucking retard for doing dumb shit with his paints because they wouldn’t keep

[Anonymous No.6943405]

>>6933781
found yowre booke

[Anonymous No.6944256]

>>6943319
Frazetta works are already cracking, the watercolors were done with Disney school sets, he used the cheapest tools.