ART SUPPLY GENERAL

[Anonymous No.4267525]

Post about art supplies here. Help others and get help.

[Anonymous No.4267560]

>>4267018
Those giant ass pans are like that so they can fit those giant ass calligraphy brushes in them. Fucking Asians, man. It's not like those giant pans are even filled halfway, regardless.

[Anonymous No.4268160]

>>4267525
Mechanical pencil (micro 0.5)
5 normal pencils (H2 , B , B5 , B7 , B8) that i never use
Cotton swab for blending
Eraser

Thats kinda it really

[Anonymous No.4268290]

Waiting on new teoh watercolour video...

[Anonymous No.4268304]

>>4268290
in this video i will be using a limited palette of my shadow.
my shadow is very granulated.
lets try my shadow and a shadow from something else. they mix together very nicely.
okay thats it for my video.

[Anonymous No.4268306]

>>4267525
i have a wacom tablet

[Anonymous No.4268334]

>>4268304
based

[Anonymous No.4268348]

>>4268306
me too , wacom one to be more exact

Sadly , i still have to catch up to my trad skills

[Anonymous No.4268421]

>>4268306
I have an offbrand tablet. Works well, except a lot of programs don't work with it, so I guess it works like shit.

[Anonymous No.4268440]

Just got meself for xmuss a set of 48 fine art oil pastels as well as a few large ass oil pastel sticks. Wanna get into something more expressionist, rough and natural with em.

[Anonymous No.4268596]

This shit lifts watercolor like fucking nothing else I just tried right now
OMG it's not a youtube meme
best €1.89 ever spent

[Anonymous No.4269219]

>>4268596
These are litterally melamine sponges, and there's nothing special about them. You can order them from amazon 100 for 5 euros or something

[Anonymous No.4269339]

I only do soulless digitalshit.
Do I only need hb/2b/sketching pencil and some copic markers to move to trad?

[Anonymous No.4269376]

>>4269339
You can move to trad using any material you want anon, pencil and paper is a good start. Is there any reason you want copics in particular?

[Anonymous No.4269377]

>>4269339
Well, you might want some paper and something to do lineart with as well - if you get too much graphite on your marker nibs it can damage them.
Bristol board is great for markers, and copic multiliners and sakura microns are popular fineliners. If you want something with more line variation, check out brushpens.

[Anonymous No.4269606]

>>4269376
>copics
Because for digital colors I just use the Copic color library that already exists in Autodesk Sketchbook; I thought the results would be about the same if I use actual Copics
>>4269377
This is what I mean lol, having no knowledge I thought some markers is all that's needed but then there's brushpens and whatever sakura microns is
Not being a jerk, but I thought that trad in the long term would end up being more expensive than digital (even if results are prettier)

[Anonymous No.4269609]

>>4269219
Do they leave a residue?

[Anonymous No.4269617]

>>4267525
if this painting of paint wasn't painted with the paints that the painting is supposed to be of, then it wasn't worth painting

[Anonymous No.4269624]

>>4269606
Sakura Microns are a type of fineliner, they come in different sizes and you can use them to ink your lineart. Plus there are different brands of fineliners.

Here's what a would recommend for you:
- Some pencils
- Bristol paper (good for inks and copics)
- A multipack of fineliners (in different sizes)
- Copics, since you seem interested in those

If you just want to try out traditional work you can just start with a standard pencil and some printer paper if you really want.

[Anonymous No.4269628]

>>4269606
Eh, markers aren't cheap, but people tend to ignore the cost of hardware and software when talking about digital.
And sure, you can do digital on a budget, but the same is true for traditional - unfortunately with both options you sacrifice some possibilities and likely end up having to invest more time compared to working with higher quality products.

And you don't need a brushpen, it's just an option if you want more expressive lines. Sakura microns are just thin black pens that you can do your outlines with. Nothing all that complicated, really.

[Anonymous No.4269667]

>>4269339
there's a ton of mediums to choose from anon.
i recommend dabbling cheaply in a few until you find one you really like. don't go all out and buy 100 oil paints just to find out you hate it and much prefer pastels or watercolor or something.
if you are interested in markers copics are top of the line but pricey af & there's lots of really good alternatives that work about as well too if you do a bit of digging

[Anonymous No.4269694]

>>4267560
No? Those pans exist because they're convenient ways to store watercolors.

[Anonymous No.4269701]

>>4268596
Bleach will destroy the paper over time - sometimes within days. DO NOT use bleach to lift color. Bad idea.

[Anonymous No.4269705]

>>4269701
Strike that, I see "Mr. Clean", I think bleach. They're just scrubbing pads. Never tried one to lift color, interesting.

[Anonymous No.4269920]

>>4269339
Aren't copics refillable? nice to have a consistent set of colors and warm/cool greys to rely on over the years.

[Anonymous No.4269925]

I tried doing some watercolor, but the size 20 synthetic blick brush I got a couple of months ago seems to have lost its edge already. Should I take the plunge and take advantage of Christmas to get a real bristle one? Or should I just try something else? Shibasaki’s videos are comfy, food for the soul...

[Anonymous No.4269940]

>>4269925
Get a good quality synthetic squirrel/sable like Princeton Neptune/Aqua Elite, also watercolour brushes are made with sable or squirrel hair rather than bristle.

[Anonymous No.4269941]

>>4269339

Pencil
Paper
Eraser
Cotton swab for blending

I personally like mechanical pencils over normal ones but i think normal pencils can do the job just fine

[Anonymous No.4269983]

>>4269925
Buy a kolinsky sable round 10, and for washes a number 6 squirrel mop.
If you shop carefully you won't spend that much more than buying synthetics, that are ok but they're nowhere near the real thing.

[Anonymous No.4270352]

>>4268304
>new teoh watercolour video
>not a limited palette meme
based

[Anonymous No.4270360]

I keep hearing people talk about the "number 2 pencil" but what exactly is it? Does it have anything to do with the hardness or maybe the size?
I have pencils in different hardness, like 2b, 4b or really stiff ones like 2h but I don't understand what people mean by "number 2 pencil".

[Anonymous No.4270415]

>>4270360
i believe its an hb
since our system starts with f, which would be number 1, next along is hb, number 2

[Anonymous No.4270691]

>>4269925
you can't really cheap out on brushes that size because they will lose their snap. i would recommend like another anon said, the princeton neptune line or https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Brush-WC-3000S-Velvet-Watercolor/dp/B005JJVF2Y/ the oval wash is excellent, one of my favorite brushes currently.

[Anonymous No.4271215]

I want a cheap tabletop easel like this

[Anonymous No.4271229]

>>4271215
Just make one out of coat hanger wire

[Anonymous No.4271527]

How should I sharpen these pastel pencils?

[Anonymous No.4271561]

>>4271527
You can't sharpen them with a regular pencil sharpener or a knife?

[Anonymous No.4271562]

>>4271561
I don't know. I was asking because I've never used them before and don't want to fuck up. I guess I'll try a knife.

[Anonymous No.4271653]

>>4271562
if theyre anything like colour pencils then youre more likely to break it all inside with a knife than a sharpenenr

[Anonymous No.4271660]

>>4271562
>>4271527

I would recommend trying a high-quality sharpener first. I have a little brass german number that I use for Graphite, Watercolor, and Col-erase pencils that seems to work fine.

I'm far too lazy to bother with a knife though.

[Anonymous No.4271987]

what watercolors should i get

[Anonymous No.4272128]

>>4271987
windsor newton cotman pan if you dont want to think too much.
If you want to think way too much then go to
https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/

[Anonymous No.4272144]

>>4271987
This video here
https://youtu.be/ic8aCSsq6SQ

[Anonymous No.4272171]

>>4272128
wow that sites extensive thanks
>>4272144
ill probably pick up the windsor newton from my nearby craft store to start

[Anonymous No.4272284]

My local art store closed down few months ago and now the closest and only art store is "Michaels" which sucks in comparison for variety and price.
The other art store which is farther got moved and don't know where it is now, unless that closed too.
Fuck artists apparently

[Anonymous No.4272488]

>>4272284
I assume because online low prices and poor artists are too good a match. Even though I much prefer to walk into a store and touch/test what Im buying I still buy restock of supplies I already used on amazon or whatever site is cheaper.

[Anonymous No.4273008]

Bros why is cotton paper so expensive...

[Anonymous No.4273051]

>>4272284

That sucks but like that other anon says, buying online is much more economic. The online store I buy for sells the artist grade oil paint I use for at least 2-3 euro a tube cheaper than the brick and mortar shops near me. That's a lot of money if you buy several tubes at once.

[Anonymous No.4273096]

>>4273008
Because slavery isn't a thing anymore.

[Anonymous No.4273528]

are there any watercolors in europe I can buy that are on the level of daniel smith?
I love daniel smith's basic set but I really need a brown

[Anonymous No.4273547]

>>4273528
Schmincke.
Maybe Winsor & Newton Professional too, what I have of their range is nice but I've never tried their earthtones.

[Anonymous No.4274159]

>>4273096
100% cotton other things arent as expensive.

[Anonymous No.4274162]

tried inking a waxy color pencil sketch with a metal nib pen, but seems like it would kinda clog up or at least stop drawing and i had to scribble on the side to make it flow again, is doing this bad long-term? also, how about felt tips and ballpoints?

[Anonymous No.4274170]

Merry christmas asg!

[Anonymous No.4274191]

Total idiot here. What do I buy to draw something like pic related?

[Anonymous No.4274201]

>>4274191
good quality oil pastels, oil based colour pencils, soft pastels. that sort of thing.

[Anonymous No.4274558]

>tfw going in a art supply store

[Anonymous No.4274589]

>>4273008
>>4274159
Because it's actually expensive as fuck to make if you want to offer a product that is archival grade and you can't just bleach recycled rags.
You need old ass steampunk machinery so paper mills are still located in traditional locations and it's not viable to offshore.
Watercolorists are anal as fuck about their paper, much more than any other artist working in other medias.
This said, the cheapest 100% cotton paper you can get is pic related from China and you can get it on AliExpress. I never tried it but some chink youtubers recommend it

[Anonymous No.4274651]

>>4274589
>Watercolorists are anal as fuck about their paper
Can confirm, been doing watercolor on and off for the past 2 years and more frequently lately, paper is just so crucial. I've tried many different kinds and shitty paper really ruins the experience and will work against you. I don't mind paying extra for good paper, I even spend quite a bit on paper that I merely use for sketching just because the medium is a challenge on it's own I don't want the paper to cause unnecessary hassle.

[Anonymous No.4275646]

What are some essential Daniel Smith colours for portraits?

[Anonymous No.4276172]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D01oeupsigo

God, I wish I had the money to afford cotton paper sketchbooks like him

[Anonymous No.4276339]

>>4276172
get a real job and you can.

[Anonymous No.4277294]

Anyone put cut up watercolor sticks into pans before? Thinking of getting the stick version of some primatek paints since they're cheaper than tube ones.

[Anonymous No.4277329]

>>4277294
>watercolor sticks
What's that?

[Anonymous No.4277346]

>>4277329
Basically hardened watercolor pigment, I assume you use them like watercolor pencils

[Anonymous No.4277369]

>>4277346
Seems like a waste, to be honest.
You'd be better off buying cheaper tube paints than waste these sticks.

[Anonymous No.4277491]

>>4277346
any "watercolor-like" medium is useless. Just straight up watercolor paint is a lot more efficient.

[Anonymous No.4277630]

>>4271527
use a razor or exacto knife

[Anonymous No.4278280]

>>4269694
With gansai style watercolors, the pans are intentionally that big to shove a calligraphy brush in them.

[Anonymous No.4278945]

Is it okay to have a little bit of colour contamination in your watercolour pans? From what I see a lot of people's palettes look like a right mess.

[Anonymous No.4278981]

>>4278945
You aleady answered your own question, if it caused any huge problems people would try harder to avoid it.

[Anonymous No.4279291]

>>4278945
Well why don't you see for yourself?
Sometimes the contamination looks worse than it actually is and if you pick up some paint from the pan it's barely noticeable.
Though I do keep my pans as clean as possible, I always rinse my brush before dumping it in a pan, the paint is expensive, I don't want to waste it by being sloppy and careless.

[Anonymous No.4279759]

Any fountain pens recommendations? Lamy Safari any good?

[Anonymous No.4279812]

>>4279759
Lamy Safari is probably the best and least fussy quality fp, make sure to get a converter and bottle of ink. Recently got a Sailor Fude DE Mannen 45 degree calligraphy nib pen with a converter and it's excellent. Cheap and not as durable materials for the case but love how it writes. You're not getting uniform width lines with this though, I still don't know how to fully control it and might not ever but the variety is nice with accidents.

My recs would be: Lamy Safari, Noodlers Flex, Sailor Mannen, Pilot Metropolitan for affordable that you can buy new.

[Anonymous No.4279813]

>>4279812
Are fountain pens suited for drawing variable line weights?

[Anonymous No.4279819]

>>4279812
the metropolitan doesnt post well and comes with a cleaner, not a proper converter. prera would be my choice over that.

[Anonymous No.4279820]

>>4279813
Not unless you get flex nibs which are either very expensive like Namiki Falcon or reasonable with things like the Noodlers Flex lines. It's more variable than fineliners but still fairly uniform. If you want variable line weight then get a flex nib, dip pen, or brush pen. The Pentel XFL2L is a great brush pen, the Pocket Brush is good too but wetter than the former.

[Anonymous No.4279821]

>>4279820
My issue with brush pens is they don't do well on cold press watercolour paper.

[Anonymous No.4279822]

>>4279819
I agree, the posting sucks on the Metro but the ink bladder is still a proper converter. Some people don't like piston converters. I'd choose the Prera over it as well but that's in Lamy range and I find the Safari to be a better looking and feeling pen. I'll remember to mention it in the future.

[Anonymous No.4279825]

>>4279821
I use brush pens, brushes with ink, dip pens, and fineliners on cold press with no issue.

[Anonymous No.4279830]

>>4279825
don't you get feathery dry strokes on coldpress due to the texture?

[Anonymous No.4279838]

>>4279830
I like how it looks but can see it being an issue. Never bothered me or I went over it again/inked slower but not too slow.

[Anonymous No.4280012]

>>4279838
That works I guess. Seems like FPs are for a different kind of drawing.

[Anonymous No.4280102]

So what paper am I supposed to use for gouache?

Most I've seen was just watercolor paper, but I've heard it'll go over anything (cardboard, masonite) as long as you gesso/prime it

[Anonymous No.4280414]

>>4280102
That seems about right, yes

[Anonymous No.4280729]

>>4280102
Bristol, watercolor paper, or crescent boards. Gessoing for goauche isn't necessary if you use cotton/linen based papers. I've played with gessoed canvas for goauche on masonite - acrylic based doesn't work so well, I'm told the animal hide based ones work better. Someone in school used one of those clayboards, and got good results. The issue is the paint adhering, and if you want to do washes, gesso isn't the way to go.

[Anonymous No.4280734]

>>4277294
Should work, you might want to get a small bottle of gum of arabic to wet the paint so it's a creamier consistency. A small drop in each pan is all you need.

[Anonymous No.4280786]

>>4280729
I had luck with watercolour ground, but shits expensive. I just stick to small pieces for gouache now.

[Anonymous No.4280893]

>>4268596
Shit bro thanks for the tip

>>4269339
Try buying mid tier small sets of various media to see what you like. Drawing supplies tend to be really cheap as opposed to paints. You might enjoy gouache, it has a lot of the advantages of watercolor (water based so easy to clean up, mostly done on paper rather than canvas, doesn't require a bunch of other shit like mediums and varnish and solvents) with a lot of the advantages of oil (can be opaque, can fix mistakes and rework things easily)

>>4280102
I tried it on canvas panel in a pinch when I forgot to bring paper and it worked reasonably but I still prefer paper. I mostly use "mixed media" paper or 90 lb thin watercolor paper. Heavier paper is good but I've been doing some design work that requires using a lightbox and 140 lb is too opaque.

[Anonymous No.4280935]

I have a whole liter of Liquitex Matte Medium (pic related). Any ideas? I mainly use markers, but I do have a bunch of glitters, pearl powders, etc. from resin crafting I do too.

[Anonymous No.4280952]

>>4267525
Can anyone recommend a good quality sketchbook to use with pencils and fineliners? I'd just get hot press watercolor paper but hot press is hard to find around here

[Anonymous No.4280957]

If anyone else is ocd about single pigment paints then I present a website that lists brands of paint by color for watercolor and gouache:
https://singlepigmentpaints.com/

For some reason it doesn't have acrylic and oil.

[Anonymous No.4281076]

>>4280952
strathmore make a 100% cotton mixed media book, but that seems like overkill if all you want is pencil and ink. try loose leaf premium laser copy paper, you can get it from 210-300gsm and it's smooth as bristol.

[Anonymous No.4281673]

Probably buying one of these makeup organizer cases soon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NRLMMQ5/

Gonna report back on how much it suffices art needs, if anyone is interested.
Seems to have a big pocket on the cover that might or might not be able to fit A4 paper inside. (the medium one is bigger than A4 apparently, but you never know since it's not made for such usage)

[Anonymous No.4281689]

>>4281673
This looks neat but the brushes look like they'd take a banging unless you have covers on them.
A hardback case might be better imo

[Anonymous No.4281729]

>>4276339

[Anonymous No.4281826]

Can this sort of stuff only be done on 100% cotton paper?

[Anonymous No.4281859]

>>4281826
Cotton paper is more resilient, especially if you work really wet.
Though it can probably be achieved with cellulose paper if you don't go over the same places twice. It also depends on the brand and the weight of the paper.

Anyway, you plan on doing portraits?

[Anonymous No.4281935]

Thoughts on Bee Watercolor?
It's like 50 sheets for £15 on Amazon

[Anonymous No.4281968]

>>4281935
well I ordered a pack, hoping it's good

[Anonymous No.4281977]

>>4281968
You are guinea pig, if it's good come tell us and I'll order too

[Anonymous No.4281998]

>>4281826
No, but it's way easier.

[Anonymous No.4282034]

Anyone tried ampersand boards? I wanted to get some illustration board but might try these. Claybord for gouache/acrylic and Aquabord for watercolor.

[Anonymous No.4282038]

>>4282034

[Anonymous No.4282185]

Is there a difference between Copic Original Markers and Copic Ciaos aside from the colours you can get?

I want to get into traditional art and bought a couple of Ciaos which work really nicely on some fancy paper I have, but was wondering if it was worth buying more Ciaos or go for Originals.

[Anonymous No.4282199]

>>4282185
the ink is the same, but you can't refill ciaos.

[Anonymous No.4282244]

>>4282199
Oh, so do they work the same? Can I still buy both?

[Anonymous No.4282256]

I'm a tradfag, I've been using brush pens for my drawings and would like to know if there was any material/pen that can create pitch black shadows like you'd see in Sin City

[Anonymous No.4282285]

>>4282256
When you scan your work, open it in an image editor like GIMP, find the "levels" setting, change it to darken the black (I like around 0.70 but with yours I had to use 0.30). Also using your brush pen for such a large area of black seems like a waste of time and of the brush pen to me. Just use a paint brush dipped in ink and you can cover areas far quicker. But remember to clean the brush or it will get rock hard if using say india ink cos of the shellac, tho I use a water brush with a cap and it stays moist. Too much ink (=moisture) and the paper will curl, especially if using flimsy paper. Heavier holds up better

You can reduce visibility of those strokes that are marring your drawing by using something that makes, well, big strokes. Using stronger ink. Or use a tool which you can blend. Markers could work. Could also use paint, acrylic or layered gouche/watercolor but careful with the moisture.

[Anonymous No.4282325]

>>4282285
Thank you very much, I just so happen to have a (admittedly old) case of brush cleaner lying around.

[Anonymous No.4282401]

>>4282199
Where did you get that information from? You can absolutely refill Ciaos. I have been doing so for years.

[Anonymous No.4282405]

>>4282401
https://copic.jp/en/support/f2-12/

I'm dumb and forgot the rest of my post. That link is the refill guide for Copic markers. You can even see the reference for how much refill ink a Ciao needs.

>>4282185
The real difference is the availability of colors, size (how often you'll have to refill), and uh size again (how big the marker is).

[Anonymous No.4282538]

>>4282199
That's bs, I have refilled ciaos numerous times.

[Anonymous No.4282589]

>>4282185
Technically Ciaos are probably the best choice per dollar because they're the cheapest and can be refilled. However they come with the least amount of ink from the start and aren't available in all the colors that Sketch has.

[Anonymous No.4282791]

>>4281859
Yeah but fantasy ones

[Anonymous No.4282814]

Probably the wrong board but I'll ask in this thread anyway since /toy/ doesn't have a garage/resin kit thread atm.

Anyone give me a rundown on basics for acrylics and airbrushes? I want to finally learn painting and assembling resin kit figures this year but I've never done it before and don't want to fuck up a $50 kit on my first attempt. I know you either use acrylic, enamel, or lacquer but since the latter two apparently give you cancer without proper safety equipment I'll stick to acrylics for airbrushing.

[Anonymous No.4282906]

>>4282814
afaik you mix a bit of paint with a pouring medium or get one thats already pouring ready, and go for it.

[Anonymous No.4282912]

>>4282814
probably better luck >>>/tg/wip

This seems to be the best airbrushing video I've been able to find
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2a9xuDa7gfs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0A9Ju61Xz4

I don't know much about it either but interested in seeing vids of how they paint miniatures sometimes. This was posted in another thread recently but was actually useful for myself with gouache.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

[Anonymous No.4282999]

>tfw go to art supply store to get holbein tubes only to find they've been bought out by some cheapfag
Get daniel smith if you have so much money ffs

[Anonymous No.4283170]

So I've seen a few reviewers saying that transparent red/brown oxide is better than burnt sienna/umber respectively. Is there anyone who can shed some light on why?

[Anonymous No.4283226]

>>4283170
Some people prefer all of their colors to be as smooth and transparent as possible, others enjoy a bit of granulation. It's really a matter of preference.
Well, that and the fact that traditional earthtones can really suck in commercial paint lines, even the very expensive ones. Not entirely sure why, but if I had to guess it's because natural resources are limited and can shift somewhat in color, so companies are stingy with the pigment (even though earthtones are cheap) to keep colors consistent for a long time.

[Anonymous No.4283251]

>>4283226
So TRO/TBO should be more consistent by virtue of being synthetic pigments?

[Anonymous No.4283284]

>>4283170
Don't listen to that trash. You should only be concerned about lightfastness, and apart from primary-secondary colors where you should go for the highest chroma to achieve a wide spectrum of mixtures, it's all personal preference.
>>4283226
>>4283251
earth colors aren't made from natural resources since a long time, it's all synthetic oxides. Therefore you can get a paint from a manufacturer that nails it, or it's just so-so.

[Anonymous No.4283290]

>>4283284
I'll probably get TRO since it's what James Gurney and mind of watercolor use.

[Anonymous No.4283348]

>>4283170
It's a more interesting color to have on your palette and some artists prefer working with a mostly transparent palette. Some artists want a very simple neutralizer/grey color so they'll pick a "regular" earth tone like burnt sienna/umber. Some artists want a color with more character and chroma that can mix more things like greens too. In this space you might see colors like quin burnt orange, Indian red, Venetian red, TRO, etc.

It's up to artist preference and goals. As you get more experienced you'll settle on your own preferences.

[Anonymous No.4283425]

>>4283284
That's only half true, some are synthetic oxides, some aren't - but you're right that it's kinda strange either way considering that there are synthetic options available.
Like I said, I'm only guessing at the reasons for many of these paints being weak in commercial paint lines.

>>4283251
No, other earthtones are also consistent, a lot of them just aren't very good in most brands. Like I said, I'm not actually entirely sure why, it's just a tendency I've noticed overall.
If you want to go with a regular burnt sienna, I recommend looking at some swatches for the brand you're intending to buy from. Jane Blundell's blog is great for that.

On the other hand, transparent red oxide is more saturated which can be good, but also extra work to dull down if you need a more neutral brown, that can be a hassle for beginners especially.
>>4283348 explained the advantages and disadvantages pretty well.

[Anonymous No.4283540]

What material is Yoann using in this picture?

[Anonymous No.4283586]

>>4283540
Acrylic - one of the tubes says "cryla" and most of the other tubes are liquitex, a brand that's mostly known for their acrylics (I'm not sure if they even do anything else).

[Anonymous No.4283796]

>>4283425
I'm planning to have both red and brown oxide in my palette so brown oxide can be my neutral brown for mixes. Not sure if they do well on watercolor portraits though. So far I have confirmed ultramarine, lemon yellow, monte amiata natural sienna, quinacridone red, pyrrole red, payne's grey and ivory black. Mostly planning to do fantasy portraits and sketches. Any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.4283826]

>>4283586
Liquitex also do acrylic ink and acryla gouache but yeah they are basically all the same thing with different fillers. They even boast you can mix anything from their range together.

[Anonymous No.4284330]

>>4283796
You seem way more concerned with pigments and paints than actually painting. Either of those is fine for portraits or any subject.

You seem to be missing a warm yellow and a cool blue. Something like a nickel azo yellow, gamboge, quin gold, or hansa med/deep. Something in the realm of pthalo blue green. I wouldn't use much payne's grey or ivory black in a portrait. I'd also swap out the quin red for something more like quin rose or quin coral for skin tones mixing with a tro. Tro works really well with darker violets/magentas for making dark skin tones.

[Anonymous No.4284592]

>>4282256
Buy a bottle of ink and use brushes not pens/markers

[Anonymous No.4284597]

>>4283540
The Jo Sonja's and Matisse dry to a matte finish, but Liquitex are satin finish, so odd mix.

[Anonymous No.4284651]

>>4282256
paint. flow acrylic or acrylic ink, assuming youre used to working with the fluidity of ink.
i think my scanner did some auto levels here, all i did was resize it though. failing that, just find a xerox machine, thats probably how sin city was done.

[Anonymous No.4284712]

>>4284651
Sin City was not made with a xerox machine, lol.

[Anonymous No.4284724]

>>4284712
its modern enough to have been levelled digitally? i dont keep up with comics.

[Anonymous No.4284968]

https://eshop.spd.org.sg/collections/journals/products/watercolour-sketchbook

Is this worth the price? 100% cotton paper sketchbook

[Anonymous No.4285133]

>>4282405
>>4282589
So I can get the 180 colours with the Ciaos and then if I wanted the rest just get the normal copics?

[Anonymous No.4285249]

>>4284968
Doesn't say what their source of paper is but 100% cotton at 190lb is hard to find in sketchbook form for S$35 / $25 us dollars so prob a good deal.
For comparison, you could get 10 sheets of 9" x 12" (A4) Arches 300lb 100% cotton for $31 (us dollars) on amazon.

[Anonymous No.4285251]

>>4285249
says here in a 2015 review it was saunders paper, not sure if they've changed it since
https://www.parkablogs.com/picture/review-spd-painters-journal-300gsm-watercolour-100-cotton-sketchbook

[Anonymous No.4285577]

I'm looking for colored pencils that blend well.
Prismacolor the way to go?

[Anonymous No.4285616]

can you fill an eyedropper fountain pen with watercolor? if so and even if not ill probably go for pic related. anyone experienced on these fancy sticks?

[Anonymous No.4285646]

>>4285616
It might work at first but it would probably get clogged very quickly. You would get very weak color with the amount of water required to keep it running. I dont see any advantage to using watercolor over fountain pen ink either.
As for the eyedropper aspect; I'd advise against it. It tends to be a leaky mess and the amount of extra ink is insignificant. On top of that, refilling is much more of a hassle than your standard plunger mechanism. If you're new to fountain pens I recommend a Lamy Safari or Pilot Metropolitan. They're both cheap but solid. The platinum preppy is the bic pen of fountain pens. If you're really keen on eyedropping the Noodler Ahab (or noodlers other flex nib) is a good choice, but I found the nib too scratchy for my liking.

[Anonymous No.4285688]

>>4285646
My plan was to order 20 something of them and using them with colored ink or watercolor. I'll reconsider if they're really that awful. I just need them to spit out a straight line and good quality color that's it.

[Anonymous No.4285782]

>>4285688
The nibs on the preppy aren't too bad as long as you don't go with the extra fine (kinda scratchy), but the plastic body isn't very high quality and the snap cap wears out or cracks quickly and then your pens will dry out. You'll have to replace them after a couple of months. Okay if you want to just test if you even like fountain pens, but not something that's going to last.

[Anonymous No.4285812]

>>4285133
Bingo.

[Anonymous No.4285939]

>>4285251
Going by this review, seems good to go. I'm cynical these days, so I always expect the worst, especially something coming out of asia, but this seems to be the real unicorn deal. And it's from a charity, which explains the cost, as much of the labor is paid for from the government, probably.

[Anonymous No.4285946]

>>4285688
Check out fountain pens on alibaba. You cant get sub $1 unless you buy like 500 but there are some decent ones for 2-3 bucks if you look around.

[Anonymous No.4286046]

>>4285939
Just want to point out one thing. I thought it said 190lb but its 190gms which is 90lb. For this paper weight you can actually just get strathmore mixed media sketchbook with 100% cotton.
It is cheaper and has more paper.

[Anonymous No.4286168]

>>4286046
Hmm, haven't seen that before. Yeah I might just go for strathmore. Honestly I do prefer 300lbs but it's hard to find 100% cotton paper sketchbooks around here in Singapore.

[Anonymous No.4286235]

>>4285616
if its anything like filling a waterbrush with premixed colours, youd have to keep shaking it once a day because it will separate from the water.

[Anonymous No.4286284]

I'm looking into finally getting my first screen tablet.

Since I'm familiar with Huion, I've been looking at the Kamvas and Kamvas Pro, but not sure how important parallax will be.

I kind of want the Pro to minimize dealing with that, and it has side buttons; but it's 16in screen for the price I'm looking at. The non Pro has a bigger pane of glass in front that seems to cause a lot of parallax, but its also 20 inches which is about the size of my current tablet; is the parallax frustrating to work with? Is it worth going smaller screen at reduced parallax?

[Anonymous No.4286288]

>>4286284
you'd have better luck asking in >>4261114

[Anonymous No.4286291]

>>4286288
thanks I should've ctrl+f'd instead of eyeballed the catalog

[Anonymous No.4286554]

>>4286046
The binding is the selling point for that price. I wouldn't mind trying to make one, if I had the time, but having it done, at that price - don't think it's a bad deal.

[Anonymous No.4286843]

do fountain pens usually have inconsistent ink flow? Bought a preppy and it produces dry strokes at random times. Is this normal for all fps or is it just the preppy

[Anonymous No.4286851]

>>4280952
I do a lot of pencil and pen and ink, honestly your best bet for an every day carry is to buy a bunch of cheap ass sketchbooks, preferably heavier weight, and just use one that has a paper that doesn't feather your pen lines. I have a scrap sheet i put behind the page if im going real heavy on the ink. you'll end up getting a few that you'll have to relegate to pencil only, or learn to make something good with feathery pen lines, but once you find the right dirt cheap sketchbook you can just buy a ton

[Anonymous No.4286908]

>>4286843
The only fountain pen I used consistently is an old Lamy 27, I did some maintenance on it myself and it writes like a charm, though I had some bad experience with bad ink which dried too quickly and clogged up the canals that lead to the nib. So now I exclusively use Lamy ink in it and that works great, it's always smooth and the lines are consistent.
I don't know about the Preppy, there could be multiple factors influencing your lines, it can be the ink, maybe your pen is clogged somehow and requires cleaning. Or maybe you don't hold the pen properly all the time.
It's definitely not usual to have inconsistent inkflow in fountain pens.

[Anonymous No.4287055]

>>4286908
yeah it's my first fountain pen, i noticed you have to hold it at a certain angle and draw with your arm to get the ink to flow rather than using your wrist and fingers as it messes with the orientation of the pen

[Anonymous No.4287063]

>>4287055
so what youre saying is, its a fountain pen thats useless for writing with.

[Anonymous No.4287066]

>>4287063
Idk, the guide here says to hold it that way.
https://www.jetpens.com/blog/how-to-write-with-a-fountain-pen/pt/271

[Anonymous No.4287613]

>>4285812
Awesome, thank you so much for your help!

[Anonymous No.4287617]

>>4286843
No, good fountain pens are very consistent. Buy Pilot.

[Anonymous No.4288482]

Fuck, turns out preppy ink isn't waterproof. There goes my plans for using it for pen and wash pictures.

[Anonymous No.4288628]

does anyone use ecoline bottle watercolors? I'm not sure what paper to use them and not get contamination between near colors.

[Anonymous No.4288629]

>>4288482
Get a platinum carbon fountain pen. Its cheap and uses the platinum carbon ink which is waterproof.

[Anonymous No.4288653]

>>4288628
I use them in all my works, I would say any watercolor paper should do, I really love using 300g paper

[Anonymous No.4289727]

>>4288629
>platinum carbon fountain pen
found teoh's review https://www.parkablogs.com/content/review-rotring-art-pen-vs-carbon-desk-pen-vs-platinum-kdp-3000andp-1000an-desk-pen

[Anonymous No.4290322]

Can I use gouache on wood? I got some of these little circles and want to paint on them. Do I have to prime the surface with something?

[Anonymous No.4290386]

>>4290322
Probably not a good idea, gouache can be reactivated any time so if you’re doing commission or finished pieces they need a frame with glass. Oils can definitely be used with a primer tho.

[Anonymous No.4290402]

>>4290322
If you don't want the wood sucking up pigment you need to prime with gesso or watercolor ground first but you are going to lose the wood texture then.
Experiment first I would say.

[Anonymous No.4290514]

>>4290322
I would say prime it with acrylic gloss medium and then paint it with acrylics

[Anonymous No.4290517]

>>4290322
Try his method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6Gjgdl6Fvs

[Anonymous No.4290521]

Does anybody have advice for shopping for pigments online? Hard to obtain things that specialised out here in the middle of nowhere, so online ordering is my best option, but I don't want to be fucked on some poor quality, uneven pigment setup for some dumb thot's makeup. What should I be looking for in storefronts? Just looking to mix them with linseed oil to make up some oil paints.

[Anonymous No.4290525]

>>4290521
https://shop.kremerpigments.com/en/
I heard these guys are pretty reliable

[Anonymous No.4290570]

Anyone have experience with fude nibs? Are they easy to learn to use?

[Anonymous No.4290724]

>>4288628
never leave works with ecoline in the sun btw

[Anonymous No.4291328]

>>4290402
Transparent ground exists

[Anonymous No.4291583]

>>4288628
Looks like they're dye based watercolors. I use ph martins watercolors which are also liquid dye watercolors and I normally use arches or fabriano watercolor papers. If you get contamination make sure the area you're painting near is completely dry before working more, I suggest using a hair dryer on its lowest heat if you're strapped for time and need to speed it up. They shouldn't contaminate too much if you're careful with your brush strokes, dont use a lot of water and the first edge is dry.

[Anonymous No.4291589]

>>4290525
Kremer is based, so is Guerra https://www.guerrapaint.com

I suggest visiting either if you're ever in NYC, it's like a painter's version of being a kid in a candy store

[Anonymous No.4291822]

>>4290570
I have one and it's become my go to sketching pen. It's great because I can fill in areas with the thick part like a brush while still getting thin lines all in one pen.

[Anonymous No.4291839]

>>4291822
Nice, I'm thinking of getting the Duke 209 plus some ink to use in sketching in my journal. Any ink recommendations? Looking at De Atramentis document brown

[Anonymous No.4291878]

>>4291839
I have the Sailor Fude DE Mannen in 40 degrees with the Sailor converter. I would love to try De Atramentis but it's far too expensive for what I want to pay so I mostly have Noodler's. I was eyeing their Document Fuchsia. I also wanted the brown but again, too much money. It's unfortunate that there really aren't any waterproof and archival red/orange/purple inks for fountain pens.

I primarily use Noodler's #41 Brown and Noodler's Bulletproof Black, I also use Polar Blue and sometimes put that in a spare brush pen I have. I use all three inks in a few pens I have.

[Anonymous No.4291903]

>>4285577
They work well, are widely available, and priced reasonably.

[Anonymous No.4291921]

>>4291878
I'm worried about using Noodler's inks because while they say they are waterproof inks, I have heard reports that they have some issues with strathmore paper, which i use.

[Anonymous No.4292165]

>>4291589
>>4290525
I'm afraid that being in rural Australia leaves a trip to NYC unlikely, but I will see if either deliver to the middle of nowhere.

[Anonymous No.4292586]

>>4291921
>>4291878
Bit the bullet and bought both the duke 209 and the de atramentis ink, it seems to work great but i get ink on my fingers, possibly from gripping the pen too low? Is this a common occurrence?

[Anonymous No.4292721]

>>4292586
I don't own that particular pen so I wouldn't know if it has any common issues, but generally you don't hold fps right at the front but a bit further back. I think part of the reason why people tend to have nicer handwriting when using fountain pens is that they kinda force you into good habits or else they just don't work properly.

[Anonymous No.4292766]

>>4292586
No, you shouldn't. However, be aware of how you put the cap back on and take it off. Not sure about the pen but sometimes they'll leak a bit of ink with pressure or temperature changes (in and out of pocket, travel, general tossing around), and you might get ink on the cap when you take it out or put it back on if you're not careful.

[Anonymous No.4294034]

>>4292766
Gotcha, will be careful.

[Anonymous No.4294080]

>>4292721
I see, yeah I noticed that you always have to hold it at that sweet spot angle to get a consistent ink flow.

[Anonymous No.4294948]

what's a good mechanical pencil? Is the Kurutoga 0.5mm fine?

[Anonymous No.4295377]

>>4294948
I use a Graphgear 1000 7.mm, it’s good but I struggle with sketching lightly with it.

[Anonymous No.4295590]

is it worth it to buy a pasta roller for polymer clay?

[Anonymous No.4295619]

>>4295590
If you're really into sculpting, yeah. For A few small pieces a year I'd say no.

[Anonymous No.4295830]

>>4295590
Not quite. It is worth buying a pasta roller for pasta, and then using it for polymer clay. Just clean it properly afterwards, you filthy anon.

[Anonymous No.4295860]

>>4294948
I have the Staedtler Mars Technico and it's pretty good.

[Anonymous No.4295918]

>>4295590
Up to you. I bought some wooden dowels years ago, in different sized, and just make my own sculpting tools - I learned that it's way better in college, when i took a lost wax casting class, and worked in sculpting wax, we made all our own tools with round bar and a small forge. I just whittle the shapes I want in wood, and use larger chunks to roll clay out.

[Anonymous No.4296865]

Anyone know a good tracing tablet?

[Anonymous No.4296969]

Would using pen brush to ink and then pencils to shade and render be a good idea? Also recommend me a good pen brush for a beginner, I know that it's not exactly easy to use but I'm willing to learn, fineliners are way too thin for me and I want to have control over what kind of a line I'm making at all times, making it thinner or thicker whenever I please. And what's the difference between a fountain pen and a fineliner? Sorry if some of these questions seem retarded, I'm /beg/ as fuck

[Anonymous No.4297008]

>>4296969
you really don't mix ink and pencil in that way. the finished piece will either be rendered in graphite or in ink.

this is an easier to use brush pen than the pocket brush but a little more dry.
https://www.amazon.com/Pentel-Fude-Brush-Medium-XFL2L/dp/B000THNGVO

i'd say pick up a cheap synthetic watercolor #2 round and a cheap bottle of india ink or kuretake sumi ink so you can play with an actual brush.

[Anonymous No.4297190]

what are some good gouache/watercolor brushes. I am looking for a med/small round brush and a good flat, preferably natural hair. Got any recommendations? For paint, I heard Daniel Smith and Schminke are good.

[Anonymous No.4297357]

>>4297190
I use escoda versatil travel brush size 6 for my work on paper size legal, short and A4. For larger ones A3, i get whatever large round mop brush is available.

[Anonymous No.4297975]

whats a good, decently priced 100% cotton watercolor paper i should use as a beginner?
i was told from various people that despite being a beginner with watercolors, i should learn how to use them on 100% cotton paper.

good advice or no?

[Anonymous No.4298142]

>>4297975
good advice unless all youre planning on doing is plopping colours onto little illustrations.

[Anonymous No.4298152]

>>4297975
Watercolor paper is 100% linen or cotton. If it's not, it's not true watercolor paper.

Arches is the best, in my opinion, and a 12 sheet pad is $20. If that's too much, Canson (the own Arches) and Strathmore pads are fine, too. Get glued pads, then you won't have to worry about stretching or taping it down - and if you want to do large washes, get the heavier weights.

[Anonymous No.4298302]

>>4269624
>Microns
So these?
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1355433
Are they really not designed to be refillable?

[Anonymous No.4298309]

Bros... I've fallen for the brown ink meme

[Anonymous No.4298362]

>>4269624
warning about copic color markers though, they're not lightfast. i think a lot of people who get into markers don't realize it's for designing an idea

>>4298302
copic makes a refillable fineliner labeled sp but most people that use fineliners expect them to be disposable and just buy new packs.

[Anonymous No.4298530]

>>4298302
I like pigmas and no they aren't refillable but shit costs like $2 here so I don't care.

[Anonymous No.4298619]

>>4297975
If you use expensive paper as a beginner, it's hard to go wild and experiment with the million things you don't know yet, when each doodle costs a hefty price. All you need is masking tape, a wooden board, and the heaviest cheapest paper you can find, and use that until you've gotten comfortable with watercolors. It's hard enough to get rid of the ''each piece must be perfect'' mentality as is, without each piece of paper being precious as well.

[Anonymous No.4299236]

>>4298362
>warning about copic color markers though, they're not lightfast. i think a lot of people who get into markers don't realize it's for designing an idea
Are you that stupid bitch from twitter?

[Anonymous No.4299398]

>>4298302
a refillable technical pen is a rotring. those are not cheap, because theyre designed to be completely disassembled for cleaning, which needs to be done every so often, usually with their own cleaning fluid.
unipin and steadler also make water-proof cheap throwaway fineliners.
>>4298309
was almost me, but im currently stuck on really thin lines after years of being a .3mm lover.

[Anonymous No.4299621]

>>4298619
I'm pro and I like to dick around on blick mixed media sketchbooks. They're sturdy enough to handle watercolor but thin and cheap enough to be accessible to a beginner

[Anonymous No.4299870]

>>4298619
That's good advice for saving money and all, but if you're trying to learn watercolor, at some point you have to learn how watercolor paper works. It's a completely different experience than cheap pulp based papers.

[Anonymous No.4300072]

>>4298309
so did I, and I love it. It's not good on white paper, but it looks good on yellow or pearl white paper

[Anonymous No.4300075]

>>4299621

I'm going to second those Dick Blick Mixed Media sketchbooks.

Before going all digital, I used to use AquaBees to use a variety of materials, but found them to be cost-prohibitive, assuming you lacked a coupon.

For what you pay, you're still getting a solid sketchbook if you want to mess around with different media. 5/5 would draw in again.

[Anonymous No.4300357]

I'll ask here too. I need advice for a fineliner ink pen

I have bought pigma micron pens, and i like them. Unfortunately i have finished the ink of the 005 pen, so now i have to use 01 instead. It's fine but it's not as precise as i would like.
What i need is a fineliner ink pen that is refillable, so this shit doesn't happen again, and i always have my 005 available. I also need to know what ink to buy, because i don't know shit about this stuff. What do you use?

[Anonymous No.4300379]

>>4300357
just buy open stock 005s so you're always ready. the nibs wind down on the refillable so you end up having to replace those along with refilling. you'd want technical pen ink like rotring which comes in a few colors and is waterproof (can also be used to refill brush pens). 005 is a size 0.2 mm, so you'd have to get something like a staedtler or rapidograph/isograph technical pen. they require maintenance and cleaning along with needing to be generally upright for drafting purposes instead of at angles like writing or drawing.

[Anonymous No.4300414]

>>4269983
I saw an escoda Kosinski yesterday round, not sure what size...$314.00
Yikes.

[Anonymous No.4300489]

I made a piece entirely out of cut up vinyl stickers, What do I use to seal it? To prevent the stickers from curling up.

[Anonymous No.4301376]

>>4300489
Resin?

[Anonymous No.4301573]

>>4300414
Yeah, Winsor & Newton series 7 are also quite expensive brushes, where you can get the smallest size for 10 euros, and the largest can cost up to 200 euros.
I've bought a few Kolinsky brushes from different brands, usually a bit smaller in size but they do make a big difference.
As for synthetics, I have an Escoda Ultimo brush, I like that one a lot, it's a bit like squirrel hair. Holds a lot of water for a synthetic.

With watercolor I've always painted a bit small, it's a bad habit, but I found that you get so much more control if work a little bigger. Though that would require bigger sheets of the already expensive paper and bigger brushes.

[Anonymous No.4303095]

Are stiff brushes better for picking up gobs of dried tube watercolour from pans? I'd like to do stuff like nathan fowkes and james gurney with their wc+white gouache stuff. Would you recommend princeton aqua elite?

[Anonymous No.4303608]

>>4303095
use more water, a lot of times they're painting from a palette or something more akin to well-palettes and not anything with pans. it's good to carry a spray bottle around to activate without getting your brush dirty. you shouldn't need "stiff" brushes and there shouldn't be gobs of dried watercolor.

[Anonymous No.4303655]

I love the grip on the clear point, and the eraser, but the side button makes me think it would be irritating for drawing.

[Anonymous No.4303688]

>>4303608
Yeah im deffo thinking of transitioning to well palettes and tube paints. My worry is getting them onto planes, I'll probably have to check them in if I want to go painting overseas.

[Anonymous No.4304844]

>>4303608
>>4303688
Would squeezing tube paint into existing pans i have lying around have a similar effect?

[Anonymous No.4304896]

I've was given this unpackaged unmarked brush with a piston mechanic in it that looks very much like a waterbrush, but to fill it you dip it in liquid and twist the pen to pull the piston up, and can twist to push the liquid back out like an injection needle. The tip consists of the same synthetic fibers as a waterbrush. It seems like it won't clog easily and flows liberally because the feed to the brush is big with no small parts, due to the piston. What's it called? How should I use it? I normally use waterbrushes with watercolor or ink, and also have ecoline.

[Anonymous No.4304905]

>>4304896
Never mind, I already found my answer. I was searching for ''twist brush'' like a tard when ''piston water brush'' showed me all I needed to know. It's just like any other water brush except you're supposed to have more control over the flow, making it easier to do flat washes/areas.

[Anonymous No.4304911]

>>4303655

i use these. i like em.
have a smaller 0.5 thats pencil sized also.

[Anonymous No.4304919]

Does anyone have experience with paper for dip pens? I'm not sure what I should be looking for (using a g-nib btw).
I tried printer paper to disastrous results

[Anonymous No.4304929]

>>4304919
Depends on what printer paper and what ink you use. I get heavier than usual stuff and use india ink and it works fine. I'd say get the heaviest cheapest paper you can find, last I bought was 210g. Depending on your ink you could even work on watercolor/mixed media paper no problem. When you want to get fancy and work mega smooth use Bristol. Also take into account that you will spill and fuck up your paper more at the start when you aren't used to the pen yet.

[Anonymous No.4304942]

Are mixed media paper sketchbooks the best for watercolor+gouache works? 300gsm/140lbs?

[Anonymous No.4305046]

>>4304929
Thank you! I'll do just that.

[Anonymous No.4305051]

>>4303688
>Each tube of paint must be less than 3.4 ounces (100ml), and all tubes must be packed in one clear, zip-top plastic bag (1 quart) along with any other liquids and gels you are carrying on board.
This is TSA, check your local rules before flying

[Anonymous No.4305084]

>>4305051
That'a for carry-on right? I'm thinking of just checking them in with my clothes and stuff.

[Anonymous No.4305115]

>>4305084
NAYRT but yes, that's carry-on. Your airline will have the regulations for what you can have in your checked bag on their site. Paints aren't going to be an issue, but if you're packing aerosol sealants, that might be.

[Anonymous No.4305119]

is there any way to get straight lines with watercolor/paint? Is there a special ruler? A regular one makes such a mess

[Anonymous No.4305120]

>>4281689
>>4281673
Reporting back, in the end I didn't get it, and cleaned some space for my stuff in my wardrobe.

[Anonymous No.4305121]

>>4297190
For watercolor I use jackson's kolinsky-tajmyr sables, which are almost the same thing as escoda ones just cheaper. The day they arrive check if they hold the point when moderately wet, if not photo the brush and complain. When I first got into the watercolor I bought some escoda's but I didn't know that the point of expensive brushes is the brush point. Now I have 2 expensive brushes which can be only used as mop brushes.

[Anonymous No.4305191]

>>4303655
I used these a lot before I got a Graphgear recently, they aren't the best but they're fun to draw with. It's a shame I don't see these brought up here so often.

[Anonymous No.4305216]

>>4305120
Nice and neat kit

[Anonymous No.4305782]

>>4305119
tape

[Anonymous No.4305819]

>>4305191
How do you keep the eraser from spinning around?

[Anonymous No.4306365]

>>4269628
>the cost of hardware
I already own a good PC anyway.

[Anonymous No.4306401]

>>4269606
fuck microns use a maru pen, the line variation is the best

[Anonymous No.4306529]

>>4306401
I just used a maru nib the other day for the first time, it's real tiny man. Good for detail but you'll wreck your hand if you do everything with it. Use big nibs

[Anonymous No.4307043]

>>4304929
>>4304919
Also, heavy paper alone won't do it, you have to be a bit more careful about what you choose. I've had good experience with ink on lighter paper but paper that is sized to be a bit more resistant.

Had some paper that was labeled as "watercolor paper", it was heavy 270gsm paper but it acted like a sponge. Tried to ink with on it but that was a mess as the ink bloomed on every stroke. (heck the paper was dreadful to use with watercolor too)
So you have to experiment a bit. Maybe look for some wet media sketch pads or something like that and try out various brands and types of paper.

[Anonymous No.4307049]

I was wondering whether house painting primer could be a substitute for gesso, but google suggested it can flake when wet and wont be flexible. should I stick to gesso? (already bought more, just wondering)

[Anonymous No.4307053]

>>4304919
premium laser copy paper, it has that velum finish like bristol and can be up to 250gsm.

[Anonymous No.4307059]

>>4307043
>Had some paper that was labeled as "watercolor paper", it was heavy 270gsm paper but it acted like a sponge
Hahaha I was working on paper like that yesterday, all my other ordinary paper and watercolor paper is fine, but this one pad just sucks it straight out of the nib and bleeds everywhere. It was one of those cheapo "Top Artist Quality" pads you can find lying around non-art stores. I can still use it for scribbles or to flatten out watercolor drawings that are starting to buckle. Lay that pad and some books on top, come back later, drawing is flat

[Anonymous No.4307064]

>>4307059
Yeah same experience, the paper sucks in the pigment right away so you can't work on it any more but the paper also becomes really damp so the blooming effect only gets stronger the more you work on it.
It sucks but when it comes to watercolor I'd rather pay a bit more for good paper.

[Anonymous No.4307110]

>>4307043
paper like that almost put me off of watercolour.

though being told I needed to spend so much on full cotton would have been just as bad.

[Anonymous No.4307124]

>>4307110
Full cotton paper is nice but I don't find it essential for a lot of practice I do. I get by with some high quality cellulose paper. But bad paper can really kill your motivation, especially if you don't know that the paper is the problem.
When I first started I used whatever I could find and didn't realize the paper was working against me. Fortunately someone pointed out my error and once I tried proper watercolor paper I was sold on the medium.

[Anonymous No.4307150]

>>4307124
Hows the strathmore 400 190lbs watercolor paper?

[Anonymous No.4307352]

>>4307150
140 lbs i mean, 300gsm

[Anonymous No.4307368]

>>4307150
Don't know. I don't recall seeing Strathmore paper being sold anywhere though I always go to the same shop because I want to see and feel the paper before buying unless I'm sure about what I'm getting.

I've tried Hahnemühle, Fabriano, Canson, even Arches and some locally produced papers. I like to try all different kinds but it's hard to pick a favourite but I really enjoyed the coarse Fabriano paper but that is very expensive so I'm still a bit hesitant to buy it, same with Arches which I like too.

[Anonymous No.4307403]

>>4307368
Hahnemuhle cellulose paper good? I tried their watercolor journal once and its kinda similar to the strathmore but less heavy. What about fabriano 25% cotton?

[Anonymous No.4308544]

>>4298530
they are refillable just remove the top bit from the pen and it'll show the bar that soaks up ink. Use a dropper with your fav india ink and bang. I used my teeth and turned it so I don't want an excuse that you don't have a tool to do it. Unless you got no ink then start using dipping pens idiot.
>$2
wish I can say the same.

[Anonymous No.4308552]

>>4269606
Ignore literally every anon. Buy these on Ebay
>pic related
pros:
-cheap
-refillable
-variety of cones (aka nibs)
cons:
-if you are in the US or w/e and the only ones you can find are in Argentina then shipping will cost ya round 20 bucks
----
also as a heads up for those of you interested in these kinda pens. I use fountain pen ink so I don't have to clean it. Rapidograph ink clogs over time. If you are wondering why i didn't add this to the pros and cos just remember this is a one sided fact

[Anonymous No.4308636]

Anyone know where I can find this palette (Holbein Opaque Cake Color)? There are listings on Ali Express but I don't want any cheap Chinese knockoff shit.

[Anonymous No.4308686]

>>4271527
i used a metal file on mine, had a few break using knife/sharpeners

[Anonymous No.4308772]

>>4308636
probably ebay from japanese sellers

[Anonymous No.4310234]

>>4303688
>>4304844
Nayrt but yes, just let them air dry for a while before you go anywhere and then rewet as needed. I have that exact palette, I use it for working tube gouache plein air or otherwise not at home and it works fine. but the first time I used it I didnt let the shit dry and it got messy, nothing too bad but ended up with random streaks on the tray/rims

[Anonymous No.4310559]

>>4271215
Yea, pretty sure that's just some cheap wire you could get from coat hangers and you've already got a decent photo to lift the design. What's stopping you.

[Anonymous No.4310566]

>>4271527
Knife
Sandpaper
A brick or course rock
Crappy old pair of jeans

... probably 50 other ways that cost all of a nickel.

[Anonymous No.4310570]

>>4274558
Can't remember the last time I've actually bought anything. It always seems to cost twice what it should. If anything I'm just in their taking head notes of the quality level on products I might purchase online later.

Still a good way to meet some cool people though if you're extroverted enough to talk to the store owners.

[Anonymous No.4310591]

>>4310570
I find they're on par with online plus delivery.
I was asked "what do you paint?" And didn't realise they meant landscapes or portraits etc. Just kinda stood there dumbly until they explained and then said bit of everything since I'm still learning.

[Anonymous No.4311777]

>>4308552
are those isographs? they look like they are. I use cartridge based rotrings and I'm ok with them but I'll be looking into those. Rotrings can get expensive as fuck but at least they buy them where I live, but I haven't found Isographs yet.

[Anonymous No.4314136]

Daniel Smith or Schmincke?

[Anonymous No.4314347]

>>4314136
I use both and Winsor & Newton.
When it comes to paint I'm not that attached to brands. I might prefer certain pigments in some brands and other colours in other brands.
It all comes down to experience and preference.

[Anonymous No.4314714]

Ok why even buy other colours of gouache if you can just mix white gouache into any watercolour to get the equivalent opacity of coloured gouache? James Gurney and Nathan Fowkes are the biggest advocates of this method, but I see Gurney occasionally buying other colours of gouache too. What's the thought process behind deciding whether to buy a gouache or watercolour tube of the same pigment?

[Anonymous No.4314720]

>>4314714
intensity of color, adding white always cools and lightens.

[Anonymous No.4314763]

I'm painting with the Zorn palette today. I have titanium white, some blue, ivory black, cad red light, but NO yellow ochre. I do have yellow ochre pale and yellow ochre light. What's the best way for me to mix my own yellow ochre?

[Anonymous No.4314998]

where can i buy copic ciaos for a decent price? a lot of retailers run for like 200 with the only place that sells them for half that price is amazon.

[Anonymous No.4315029]

>>4314998
you need to specify a location. typically the sets are the same price as open stock or possibly slightly cheaper on a place like amazon. you don't need entire sets but they're good basis for your collection. in the us, blick or amazon are good resources to buy from.

[Anonymous No.4315065]

>>4314714
Because if I want a strong color I dont want to dull and tint it by adding white. In contrast, you can always thin out gouache with water to make it less opaque without losing too much intensity although at a certain point it would be better to use normal watercolor for full intensity.

[Anonymous No.4315154]

>>4314763
Just get the yellow ochre.
Or maybe experiment with the pale and light variant and see how they work with the red and black.
I don't recommend mixing it yourself.

[Anonymous No.4315328]

>>4314763
Take the yellow ochre light and add a touch of black to it, if you're using oil paints you may need to thin it out a smidge too to get the right hue

[Anonymous No.4316252]

>>4315029
Maybe once I get a pay check I might invest in a 36.

[Anonymous No.4316256]

>>4315029
I live in north America.

[Anonymous No.4318322]

>>4314714
t. white is a pain in the ass to rewet. mixing it into everything would make reusing the mixes also a pain in the ass.

[Anonymous No.4318736]

>>4314714
Because it's way easier to work fresh from a tube than anything with dried gouache. You don't want to rewet gouache really. You can do things like keep a wet palette in a tupperware container but mixing gouache with watercolor and drying in pans is a bit of a waste. Others mentioned drawbacks like changing the properties of the color too much. When you premix a lot in advance you better know with certainty what ratio you want. The white gouache is an on the spot thing.

I've seen people mix white watercolor for pastel-like colors. I've never see a use for white watercolor otherwise. Felt gypped getting Chinese white in my first Cotman set.

Some decent vids on mixing white and black watercolor mixes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1ZqCXOaR8w&t=1m
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aVBaDq4AHk&t=1m7s

[Anonymous No.4319489]

Is it really worth it for me to keep white in a watercolour palette? I find myself not wanting to use it, I prefer to control lightness with how heavy or light a wash I do, and don't like the opacity that white gives a mix. I would likely replace it with Payne's Grey if I remove it.

[Anonymous No.4319492]

>>4319489
There’s a whole branch of watercolorists that believes using anything opaque is not “true” watercolour painting.
Twats, but use whatever the hell you want really

[Anonymous No.4319714]

>>4318736
>>4318322
Oh, I meant stuff like pic related where he takes watercolours and mixes them with white gouache on the palette before putting it onto the paper resulting in opaque brushstrokes, not premixing watercolours and gouache in pans.

[Anonymous No.4320832]

>>4311777
>isographs
yes they are isographs. don't forget to buy an ultra sonic cleaner if you are going hard on possible ink clogging inks