Art Supply Thread

[Anonymous No.3551700]

Didn't see one of these in the catalog, and Im on the market for some new shit.

Thinking about buying pic related, anyone know if they are any good?

[Anonymous No.3551704]

>>3551700
Which, the Pigment Liner or the Uni Pin? I've used both over the years, I like the former more cus the tip is more robust and I can refill it when it runs out of ink. The Unipin is still a quality pen though, either works.

[Anonymous No.3551707]

>>3551704
I wouldn't mind buying both actually

[Anonymous No.3551710]

>>3551707
Do it, they're both worth it.

[Anonymous No.3551713]

I'd like to try dip/nib pens, what should I buy? Where can I learn more about them?

[Anonymous No.3551860]

>>3551713
What are you looking to do with them? What kind of lines?

[Anonymous No.3551902]

This is what I carry most of my pens and my shit in.
r8 h8 masturb8

[Anonymous No.3552545]

I've got a jinhao x450 and am about to get a converter and a flex nib for inking
do you think this is a good nib?
https://fprevolutionusa.com/collections/fpr-nibs/products/fpr-6-two-tone-flex-nib

[Anonymous No.3552713]

>>3551713
The key for good dip pen drawings is more related to the ammount of pressure and the paper you use, in my experience. They are mostly dirt cheap because they are meant to be expendable, although it is adviseable to clean them as often as you can; there's a dip pen cleaner thingy too. While you can't cary them with you all the time, I gotta say drawing with dip pens is the most satisfying way to draw, and I don't know if it's the ink I used (Kuretake ZIG Black Ink 60ml), but it's the only time when I could erase over the inked pencils and the inks stood there, without fading away. And it's the only time where I'd say I got a truly BLACK color out of an ink.

If you're truly just starting, then buy something cheap. People would discourage you from buying a Speedball set but I'd say it's good to get a hang of it, although Deleter sells a nifty little starter package you can use to practice, with the advantage that it includes a holder which takes big (G Pen and Saji Pen) and small (Maru Pen) nibs at the same time. Consider that nibs have different names depending on the country of origin, there's no "standard" way of naming them. And while most are just dip and go, some nibs have a "hood" where you can store some ink so you don't have to be dipping them every second.

Paper wise, you don't want anything with texture, since it can damage the nibs quite easily. It has to be as smooth as possible, since iirc the scratching can cause paper to clog your pens too.

Ink wise, DON'T use fountain pen ink on dip pens and vice versa. Ink for dip pens is pigmented and too thick for a fountain pen, and it would clog it easily.

[Anonymous No.3553032]

>>3552713
just stepping in to say while they do have nib cleaner fluid, you can just use rubbing alcohol to get the job done. Also use acetone on the nibs when you first get them to get rid of the oil coat they're shipped with, it'll make the nib handle the ink better.

[Anonymous No.3553089]

>>3553032
not him, but would nail polish remover work?

[Anonymous No.3553128]

So: I want a brush pen and I'm thinking of buying pic related with a pair or two of refills. Is it gud?

About brush pens in general: Do they last? For some reason I have the impression that the ink on these pens doesn't last much (in comparison with the pens on OPs pic, which are what I've got now). Not thinking about drawing large pieces with it, just sketching etc.

[Anonymous No.3553134]

>>3553128
I personally like the pentel colour brush, but the pocket is good as a carry around.
I notice in the pocket the ink goes fast, but the colour brush tubes are massive and they last a long while (and are also incredibly easy to replace)
haven't tried your pic though so sadly can't comment - will have to get one!

[Anonymous No.3553178]

>>3553089
I think that has acetone, yes. I hear people use glass cleaner as well for the same reason.

[Anonymous No.3553188]

staedtler is way too heavy, and all of their tools are too rough and feel cheap.
Uni pin I suggest since it's waterproof, so you can mess with watercolors and inks on it

[Anonymous No.3553238]

>>3553032
Do you really need the alcohol? I sometimes just use spit or water for my Hunt 102, Nikko G, and Hunt 521.

[Anonymous No.3553243]

>>3553128
I'd suggest the Pentel Pocket Brush pen, and the Platinum Brush pens. I haven't tried the Kuretake ones though. From experience, the Platinum can handle Rotring Tech Pen ink no problem bu the PPBP isn't so robust so I use Noodler's Ink with it.
>>3553188
Is it really too heavy? I never noticed. I'm the type of guy to pass over the Pilot Metropolitan cus I found it too heavy when I can get what I want well enough with a Lamy Vista.

[Anonymous No.3553276]

>>3553238
with water you have to prevent rust, though... that's why you have to clean them thoroughly and carefully.

[Anonymous No.3553279]

Yes definetly I've used them for years.

[Anonymous No.3553448]

>>3553238
Like >>3553276 you worry about rust when working with water (hence why the pens come with an oil coat, so it won't rust on the trip to where it needs to be.) Plus India ink is meant to be water resistant when dried, so water would be tougher to get it off.

[Anonymous No.3554182]

Opinions on the Deleter inks? How are they on a bristol paper?

[Anonymous No.3554198]

Just started, completely beginner level, I have a hard time drawing shapes and everything else.
Can you guys recommend me some pencils and paper to buy?

Also I was wondering if buying this is a dumb idea if I wanted to just draw with pencils?
https://www.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Adjustable-Sketching/dp/B01IFV9UKG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1533622649&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=sketch+table&psc=1

[Anonymous No.3554201]

>>3554198
Buy cheap paper from art shops, which usually sell cheap sketchbooks. Buy decent pencils whose grades you like. I like mechanical H 0.5mm but maybe you'll like standard HB or 6B or charcoal.

[Anonymous No.3554208]

>>3554201
Anon I dont have a good flat surface to draw on, currently using my dresser which isnt the worst but it fucks up my leg room

How bad of an idea is it buy an easel or something I can put on my desk to tilt it at an angle? Also thanks friend

[Anonymous No.3554209]

>>3554198
For practice, even simple copy paper or newsprint is good enough. For pencils, look for staedtler or uni. And yes, I suggest getting an easel, it helps.

[Anonymous No.3554212]

>>3554208
Seeing as you don't have a table now is the perfect time to buy an easel or architect's table. It is best to draw on a more vertical surface. An easel is good if you intend to paint or work on a large scale but am architect's table is better if you want to do other things and if your don't intend to work on big sheets in big sweeping motions (Ngmi if you don't draw from the arm tho)

[Anonymous No.3554214]

>>3554209
>>3554212
Awesome, thanks for the help anons. Have a good week

[Anonymous No.3554447]

>>3551902
i had an rotring 500 and the rugged metal part got chiped an looks shinny like it was made of copper and painted in black and the paint got washed on some pointy parts. How good is your rapid pro? my 500 got like that when i stored it in a pencil bag with other pencils. Sorry for my bad English btw.

[Anonymous No.3554719]

>>3554198
i'd reccomend getting a 2mm lead holder, staedler makes one which is probably the best you can possibly get. it's like drawing with a pencil but at the same time it's cleaner and more comfortable.

[Anonymous No.3554783]

>>3551700
I like to use Faber Castell for sketching, they are cheaper than Copics and Staedtler while being more sturdier than Sakura ones.

[Anonymous No.3554808]

good tube watercolors? also brush brands and paper?

[Anonymous No.3554840]

>>3554808
Winsor Newton, Winsor Newton, Winsor Newton.

Well the watercolors at least, especially if you want anything to do with gouache. Brushes just don't matter with watercolor the same way they do with oils and acrylics because the water is always going to be doing its own thing, so brush work is a lot less apparent. Paper does matter a lot more than acrylics though because you don't want to overwork it, but generally anything billed as watercolor paper gets the job done, you just need to remember to tape it down to a board if you want to get rid of wrinkling as much as possible.

[Anonymous No.3554883]

>>3554840
I’m looking for a brush that stays stiff for more than 2 plein air pieces. Or am I just garbage at brush care?

[Anonymous No.3554919]

>>3554883
Hard to say without knowing what brush you're using. Even cheap synthetic brushes should last a bit longer than that, though it also depends on how you're painting. Steve Huston goes through brushes quite a bit from what I hear because of his scrubby brush work.

[Anonymous No.3554955]

>>3554883
I usually just wipe my brushes lightly over a wet bar of soap and mold it back into shape and dab it dry before letting it air dry fully. It's worked ok so far for me, maybe it'll work for you?

[Anonymous No.3555256]

I'm trying out various drawing stuff. Up to this point I tried Koh-i-Noor's sepia blocks (bought ages ago, rediscovered this year). I like them, they're kind of consistently buttery and don't make any problems. Also bought Derwent's willow charcoal, it scrapes and creaks like a motherfucker, a chalk on a blackboard has nothing on this monster. I hate the feeling of it. The third and intermediateis a "Mungyo soft pastel" which has "dry and powdery" in description which is an understatement. More consistent but still gives you random bouts of resistance. Extremely texture revealing, even on smooth paper. Lastly I tried a Derwent charcoal lead for clutch pens. Starkly inferior to graphite, breaks off in chunks mid stroke.

Now, does Derwent's compressed charcoal feel just like the sepia blocks (seemingly identical format, picrel. A Mungyo would probably explode upon contact with paper if it was that thin) or is it scratchier? I'll have an opportunity to order it along with other stuff so I'm considering trying them. I'm working on a really limited budget and don't want to make multiple orders.

[Anonymous No.3555262]

>>3555256

PS what was surprising was that the goddamn sepias outperformed the clutch leads. You'd think they'd pick the most unbreakable, smoothly ground shit into a 5.6 mm tube.

[Anonymous No.3555285]

>>3552713
>Ink wise, DON'T use fountain pen ink on dip pens and vice versa.
I'd generally agree with the vice versa part, but I've just recently tried Noodler's X-Feather and have fallen in love with it. It's pitch black and the lines stay crisp even on shitty copy paper. I tried it with a G-Pen and it's still a great drawing ink; it flows very well, but still stays crisp on cheap paper. I'd use a different, thicker ink on Bristol board sure, but it makes copy paper less of a pain in the ass to practice/doodle on.

>>3553128
Brush pens with an actual bristle brush last as long as an actual brush would (years if you're gentle), but some are made of some kind of plastic foam that just keeps wearing down. I believe that Copic is foam. Jetpens has a few guides about them:
https://www.jetpens.com/blog/search?bq=guide%20brush%20pen
I'd second the medium Pentel Color Brush. The Pocket brush is a good pen, but it doesn't come to as fine a point as the Color brush, and the ink is thinner which makes it hard to get drybrush effects. The color brush has really nice, viscous ink. Peter Han has some kind of paid tutorial about using that pen that is on cgpeers (I don't remember where I got it, but it's out there for free).

>>3554198
2B pencils are good all around pencils. Buy some of those and a set of grades from a good brand. Also, some cheap, soft pencils with big cores like Prismacolor Ebony pencils. Get a pad of smooth newsprint and a sketchbook with some slightly toothy paper. Some other tools you'd want are: a spray can of fixative, kneaded and plastic erasers, and erasing shield, and blending stumps/tortillions. A good drawing board/table is nice, but you can always get a 4'x8' 1/4" masonite for ~$6 and cut that (or get the hardware store to do it for you) into some drawing boards to fit your newsprint pad and sketchbook (get some binder clips too). You can lean those against your desk and prop them up in your lap.

[Anonymous No.3555303]

>>3554955
>>3554919
Thanks for the tips, I was kind of exaggerating about how long they last but yeah I was just rinsing till water ran clear and air drying.

[Anonymous No.3555382]

If I'm new to sketching should I buy a ruler for lines? or try to just get good without one?
Also do I buy something for circles?

[Anonymous No.3555392]

What are must haves for getting into oil painting? Brands appreciated. I have access to a well lit and ventilated space.

[Anonymous No.3555402]

>>3555382
A ruler is handy for learning perspective and shit. I never needed a compass or anything for circles, in shading spheres you should be concentrating more on form and values not the line of a circle.

[Anonymous No.3555493]

>>3555392
Gamsol, pallete knife, the silicoil jar, proportional divider if you don't want to focus too much on drawing. Good brushes, (just something like princeton brush is good enough to start out) check out drawmixpaint website it has a really good guide.

[Anonymous No.3555547]

>>3551902
That mouse looks kinda uncomfortable
but I suppose it mimics pen a when drawing on computer

[Anonymous No.3555558]

>>3555382
Sketches should be lose. Like >>3555402 said though rulers are good for perspective but just for sketching I wouldnt reccomend it for doing lines. It could stiffen your work if you're new to sketches.

If you were doing something like inking though it would be a little different- I would recommend rulers for lines at that point since it needs to be more clean. For circles I would reccomend a circle template and elipse template instead of a compass. But just like with the ruler you should only use it for the last stages and not for a rough sketch
I hope this helps

[Anonymous No.3555625]

>>3555558
>>3555402
Thanks wholesome /ic/ posters

[Anonymous No.3555895]

>>3553134
>>3553243
>>3555285
Thanks, anons. I've decided for the Pentel color brush. Started looking for it in stores yesterday, but looks like I'll have to buy it online.
Another question: is there a specific brand of ink I should refill it with, or any quality/not cheap ass ink will do? I've read pic related is good, and it's relatively easy to find where I live.

[Anonymous No.3555920]

>>3555895
Fountain pen ink works, as does pigmented ink. I've filled mine up with some Daler-Rowney Kandahar ink, Rotring Technical Pen ink, and some watered down pigmented ink for some grays for years and it hasn't crapped out on me. Cleaning it once in awhile helps a lot too but I forget to clean my Color Brush but it still works fine.

[Anonymous No.3556550]

I'm looking for a good quality travel watercolor set, travelling to Amsterdam soon and I want to get some artwork done along the way. I like the look of Schmincke sets but they are a bit pricey.

Any recommendations?

[Anonymous No.3556675]

Is there any good pencil bundles on amazon I should buy for sketching?

Most seem to include charcoal pencils and other weird shit that I'm not quite sure what they even do. I'm down to buy them I'm just not sure which one

[Anonymous No.3557470]

my question is about mechanical pencils and lead shades.

so if I want 24 shades of lead in sizes ranging from say 0.1 to 1.0mm

that's quite a lot of pencils. do sets like that exist?

>>3556675
whats a good pencil bundle anon? you mean coloured?

[Anonymous No.3557499]

>>3556675
i think you'd be better off with something like a 2mm or 5.6mm lead holder

and you
>>3557470
would be better buying those pencil bundles. I do not know if they sell bundles of lead refills like they sell bundles of pencils. I think the other anon is talking about those sets of pencils which come in tins and include one pencil per every (or almost every) shade.

[Anonymous No.3557516]

I want to buy a metal mechanical pencil. Am i deluding myself if i think that metal feels much better to me than normal pencils? I need something to sketch with that is on the thinner side and a 0.5 or 0.7 mechanical pencil would fit that description nicely, but i can't stand the feel of plastic. Help

[Anonymous No.3557527]

>>3557516
so just get a metal one.

when I was a kid and only had one mechanical pencil id shave the tip with sand paper to get thinner lines.

[Anonymous No.3557534]

>>3557516
As an engineering student, sturdy and well-built mechanical pencils literally give me erections.

[Anonymous No.3557558]

>>3557527
My problem is I don't know which one to get. Help please?
>>3557534
as a chemical engineering student i simply want to cry

[Anonymous No.3557559]

>>3557470
Do 0.5 leads even come in such variety? I think especially on the B side they'll just be too soft to maintain such thin leads.

[Anonymous No.3557590]

>>3557559
0.5mm Pentel offer 12 grades. just quoting what I read from blog

don't know if they offer packs tho.

http://davesmechanicalpencils.blogspot.com/2006/04/lead-size-hardness.html

[Anonymous No.3557600]

>>3557590
on uk site, only offers 7 0.5mm
https://www.pentel.co.uk/products.asp?group=8

cant find any other site with a bigger range.

[Anonymous No.3557619]

well I cant find such thing as a variety pack, seems you have to buy them all individually.

[Anonymous No.3557625]

do you think having nice things makes you more determined to draw?

it would be like, right ive bought the most expensive pencil. least I can do is make an effort to draw with it.

[Anonymous No.3557706]

How bad can they possibly be? 4 for $10, 3 synthetic sables and whatever the fuck a synthetic squirrel is. Can't be worse than regular synthetic, right? They feel almost like a dead rodent.

>>3557625
You end up using your walmart sketchbook and mechanical benis because burning through 2 dollar pencils on bad sketches doesn't feel good enough to warrant it.

[Anonymous No.3557840]

>>3557625
It depends for me. I love nice designs, and do genuinely get excited to use different supplies based on their design and value. By that affect, I do draw more.

But I don't only get excited over expensive things. Buying cheap printer paper or newsprint paper when you need to just draw is the best over any sketchbook. Your not afraid to mess up pages, cause I'm even afraid to put junk in Walmart sketchbook. My newsprint has been a godsend.

So I say if you want it, go for it. Just be honest about why you want it so you don't waste money. For example being /beg/ but buying a screen tablet is probably a waste of money.

[Anonymous No.3557876]

>>3557625

Nice supplies are just genuinely nicer to use. Most artists will be picky after they use the medium for an extensive amount of time because they have a greater understanding of different brands and their own preferences. The extreme comparison would be using a Crayola watercolor set versus an artists grade set; it's still possible to paint a masterful piece with Crayola, but it may be a struggle in unnecessary ways because of how you handle watercolors that can't be done with cheap paint.

The quality of the art supply can also go down if you're using cheap brands, which can be more expensive or wasteful in the long run. For pencils, its extra clay in the graphite, for paints it's less pigment and more filler/binder, for WC paper it's less cotton, and for brushes it can be the glue binding for the bristles.

[Anonymous No.3557917]

>>3556550
Check out Marco Bucci or James Gurney’s plein air setups on YouTube. You pretty much just need some brushes, a portable pallete and a water tin. Just let your tube paints dry out in the pallet and reconstitute when you paint.

[Anonymous No.3558304]

>>3556550

If you do plan to do what >>3557917 suggests, get some gum arabic too for mixing since some might be a bit too runny.

[Anonymous No.3558638]

Are fountain pens good for inking?
I used to mess with them when I was a teen but there was always that risk of it throwing up all over the paper.
Did I just have a crappy pen?

[Anonymous No.3558654]

>>3558638
>Are fountain pens good for inking?

Yes.

>Did I just have a crappy pen?

Yes.

[Anonymous No.3558674]

>>3558654
Can you recommend some good ones?

[Anonymous No.3558679]

>>3558638
Very good, some of the best even. Of course, some of the really good flex pens are expensive, but you can have some pens like the Noodler's pens that are cheap and can kinda flex so there's still a good bit of line variation.

[Anonymous No.3558684]

>>3558674
What's your budget? Got any preferences? Cartridge/converter? Eyedropper? Piston fill? As hard as a nail, some flex, very flex?

[Anonymous No.3558688]

>>3558679
Awesome thanks.
I’m going to try inktober this year and I currently only have pencils. No pens except for regular ballpoint with blue ink.
I’ve gone digital for so long I forgot the joys of traditional

[Anonymous No.3558690]

>>3558684
I honestly don’t know the first thing about pens. I want a pen that I can get a good amount of line thickness variation.
And something that won’t leak in my pocket.
My budget is about $50. I can go more if need be.

[Anonymous No.3558698]

>>3558690

https://www.gouletpens.com/collections/flex-soft-nib-pens

Have fun, Anon.

[Anonymous No.3559181]

>>3558638
anything a fountain pen can do, a set of dip pens can do much better, and for WAY less, and with better ink.

[Anonymous No.3559199]

>>3559181
Not as portable though and it's no as fickle with the maintenance and keeping it inked up. I love my dip pens but damn am I lazy to clean them, hence my jump to fountain pens and brushes.

[Anonymous No.3559356]

>>3559199
you still need to clean your fountain pen and your brushes, though. Ideally you should clean your fp at least once a week, although some people only do it when they change inks.

Get a Jinhao though. I'm thinking about getting one myself since they seem to be reliable and very cheap. Consider that most of these supplies have chinese counterparts, not bootlegs but stuff made by the same companies who manufacture the actual supplies, and the difference in price is mostly justified by the logo they put in it. It happens in every industry.

[Anonymous No.3559365]

>>3559356
I know you should clean your fps and brushes, it's still a good deal less than dip pens, which is what I like.

I'd give a lot to find a decent Chinese counterpart to the Rotring Art pens and the Namiki Falcon though, don't think that'd happen. Not anytime soon.

[Anonymous No.3559367]

>>3559365
Just get a pilot metropolitan.

[Anonymous No.3559371]

>>3559367
I have one, I use it good but I use my Kakuno more now though.

[Anonymous No.3559405]

>>3559365

There's no chinese knockoff of the namiki yet because of the gold nib.

[Anonymous No.3559778]

>>3557917
>>3558304

Thanks for the replies, I've had gum arabic for ages and never knew what to do with it. Going to buy a small watercolour set tomorrow, cheers

[Anonymous No.3559796]

>>3558638
Lots of mods for G Nibs exist, if that's what you wanna do. I'm partial to using one o those nibs onto a Noodler's Ahab, with additional deeper cuts to the feed to get the flow going for my needs (and without the need for an overfeed). For other options, like crowquill, you gotta either /diy/ that shit or go to a vendor like Ackerman for one of their specific pens. Good luck with the latter though - too many problems with customer service, and high potential for the order to be outright cancelled without your input. Should be reviews out there for that seller if you wanna test your luck & can't mod a cheapo fountain pen.
Hell, you could even try to mod an acrylic paint marker for that if you really wanna. You just gotta be open-minded and experiment, ya know?

>>3559356
To be honest, keeping the ink flowing is what matters more if one is very lax with pen maintenance but uses the pen often. The section & feed does impact this lazy behavior, so maybe it ain't the best thing to be a lazy bastard with your $100+ fountain pen or vintage pen from the 1920s.

[Anonymous No.3559843]

>>3559796
you just reminded me of when I was a kid and would draw the infinity sign over and over like that

[Anonymous No.3559908]

Not really a follow-up to the original post ( >>3516101 ) or the reposted image, but one of the side thoughts I had about this mod. Still going to keep a look out on performance with acrylic ink despite current comfort levels with it thusfar. A couple of anons had mentioned trying it out, did you two have any luck with your pens?

>>3559843
kek
The figure eights and fox & dog sentence do get a bit old after a while with fountain pen testing/line variation displays

[Anonymous No.3559929]

>>3559796
Tachikawa has a FP which has a G pen built in. It's obviously not as flexibe and it's somehwat cheap, but it does give some line variation. It takes cartdriges though, dunno if you can apply a converter to that one.

[Anonymous No.3560035]

Hello art supply general, i was wondering that, as I am a relative begineer to ink, what should i start with first? Is there a starting point, or should i simply experiment first?

[Anonymous No.3560116]

>>3560035
Play around with what sounds good to you. Some cheap pens are a nice start to see if you like the general idea. Pens like the Uni ball Vision Needle or Air.

For dip pens, you could try those Speedball packs that offer six nibs and two nib holders.

You can also try the Pentel Color Brush for brush inking. It's even better since you can refill it if you get into brush inking, I suggest looking for a pigmented ink that can used for airbrushing and technical pens as well as brushes and dip pens so you can use it to refill both the brush and use it with the dip pens. You should find pictures on the bottles themselves or the information listed online.


All of these together should cost you a good bit of cash but you'll have a reasonable experience with all the major styles of inking.

[Anonymous No.3560313]

>>3560116
Those packs are often aimed at calligraphy though. Calligraphy nibs tend to be thicker and give lines intended for that style, which might work for you, but it might not be what you want if illustration is your main goal. Those tend to have a little reservoir built into them so they can store more ink, which is again needed for calligraphy.

I'd actually reccomend a crow quill/mapping pen, or "maru pen" as it is known in Japan. The line is very thin, but it's flexible enough to give you room to experiment with what you want to do. But still, Speedball is good enough, and it's not like you will want to preserve them or something like that. If a dip pen is not working anymore, just replace it.

[Anonymous No.3560318]

>>3560313
https://www.dickblick.com/products/speedball-sketching-project-set/

This set isn't explicitly aimed at caligraphy, it can be for drawing, and it has a wide and diverse enough set of nibs for him to have a feel for what dip pens offer.

[Anonymous No.3561467]

>>3557516
The Caran d’Ache fixpencil mechanical pencils have an aluminum body, and metal innards. I think the only part that is plastic is the lead sharpener. There sort of light in weight though.
Koh I Noor also manufactures metal mechanical pencils. I’m not sure were you’re located though, and the mechanicals aren’t sold in all markets.

[Anonymous No.3561799]

>>3557516
If you want something that feels like a precision metal instrument, get a Rotring 600. I used to prefer the feel of something with a little heft to it, but I've since come to prefer things being as light as possible. Then it's easier to change your grip and keep your lines light. Pic related.

[Anonymous No.3562399]

>>3559929
Is it marketed separately from their school nib pen or was it the same product? Saw it online for an okay price, but I'm on the fence with it. Sounds like it'd be a great cheap base for some of those hacks where g pens are added to fountain pens. If the cartridges can be refilled via ink syringe, that'd make it a pretty damn good deal. Thanks for the heads up anon

[Anonymous No.3562405]

>>3553134
I've got those, but the tips split in two giving me a double line, and I can't get them to stay together again

[Anonymous No.3562445]

>>3561799
you just remove the clip thing? it comes otu easily but i'm a bit autistic about just removing it, might do that then. I have some cheap sakura mechanical pencils which are very good too, a bit longer than the p205 though.
>>3562399
apparently the cartridge can be refilled. the ink it comes with is not that good from what i've seen... they come in F and EF, but since this is an asian fountain pen I'd wager the lines are thinner than western pens of the same measures

[Anonymous No.3562785]

>>3562445
>it comes otu easily but i'm a bit autistic about just removing it
I was very autistic about that too, and even went as far as to epoxy the clips onto most of mine. I've since changed the way I grip the pencil. It's still a normal tripod gripp, but I let the pencil rest on the webbing between my index finger and thumb instead of on the bottommost knuckle of my index finger. Not having the clip there, it's much easier to spin the pencil between lines.

>>3559908
>A couple of anons had mentioned trying it out, did you two have any luck with your pens?
Hacking together a maru nib fountain pen is still on my to do list, but 70 hour work weeks are killing my free time. Some day.

I'm planning on doing the Jinhao + G-pen mod soon though. This seems like the best deal on eBay at the moment https://www.ebay.com/itm/172788369644 so I have a few of them on the way now.

[Anonymous No.3565075]

>>3561799
how quickly can you change leads in these?
or am I going to need half a dozen with different leads in? say I want to lay down grids light, then go over in darker thicker line weight

[Anonymous No.3566556]

Bought six drawing books for 60 cents, all centered around trees and the american landscape. Thought they looked really nice and they are quite big too.

[Anonymous No.3568493]

>>3557625
Buy good enough for sketching, and make damn sure you ruin every page you want to sketch on, hell, dip it in some coffee, just a corner, just so the idea "This page is perfect, I will make a masterpiece" Gets out of your fucking skull, otherwise you will hesitate to ever use it.

I highly recommend news print in a2 sheets, If you can cut it, go for it, but get a nice cardboard back that can support a2, use the full sheet and make a sketchbook out of that, with news print it deteriorates over time, so you have no illusion of it lasting.

[Anonymous No.3568500]

>>3557876
Its about pigment at that point, at least for color and blendability, generally

cakes<art cakes< premium cakes< Lowest quality tube

and right there is where you want to be, lowest quality with good results

there are 2 pencils I use, 1 is a color pencil that has black pigment but has low gloss, I use that because graphite cant get real black, and I use a thick core ebony pencil, because I can strip the wood and get an inch of graphite out and shape it in a way that makes it good to use,

Find the cheapest way that gives you the highest quality

you want color, you got computers, learn on that as color is VERY expensive to learn

you want to learn inks? get a pentel pocket brush and when it runs out, either refill with your own ink or use it as a dip brush, as it has one of the best synthetic edges you can buy.

You want to learn how to draw, get a pencil and draw, remember to map shadows so you get 2 times the conture practice out of it while being able to finish a drawing without pissing away time rendering.

[Anonymous No.3568504]

>>3555262
dick blick
look up soft willow
some people like charcoal hard, some like it soft, hell you could even make your own, grind it to a power and paint with it if you wanted.

[Anonymous No.3569071]

I have a few brush pens but I want to learn to ink with a actual brush. Any suggestions for that and ink that goes well with brushes?

[Anonymous No.3569086]

Copic multiliner, Pigma micron or staedtler fine liner? I have micron sepia and it's alright but in the scott robertson video on ellipses he is using a Copic multiliner and the result is amazing. However they are 20$ each on amazon and no local store have them. What are your favorite pen anons?

[Anonymous No.3569243]

>>3569086
Don't know how relevant is this to you, but in my experience pretty much all multiliners will end up fading when you erase over them, even if it's just a little. I've tried multitudes of erasers and papers, and also adding less pressure, but they def. fade away too easily. I don't think they apply enough ink for it to not fade...

Also, Copics at 20 bucks each? That's pretty weird, I live in a shit country and they are still like 2 bucks each. I think you might be looking at SPs, which are refillable and more expensive.

[Anonymous No.3569275]

>>3569071

If you have the money, you can use what most inkers swear by, Winsor & Newton kolinsky no.7 or you can be cheap and just buy a decent synthetic brush. I personally like the Escoda Prado series because they're really springy.

Speedball Superblack is great and cheap, Dr. PH Martins hicarb has a deep, rich matte black, FW and Liquitex acrylic inks have great selections if you want to use colored or metalic ink, sumi ink has a bit of glossy finish in it if that's something you're into.

[Anonymous No.3569339]

>>3569243
Thanks about that, I'll stick to microns then. Yeah they were SPs

[Anonymous No.3569461]

Hello, I am completely /beg/ tier, but I was wondering, when should I start to break into ink and such, and what would be some good beginner ink tools to help learn the medium?

[Anonymous No.3569477]

>>3569461
For fineliners you really can't go wrong with microns, you can buy the pack of .20mm-.5mm for like $15 I think.

For brush pens, prismacolor has some cheap ones, pentel has the pocket brush pen which is considered one of the better portable ones. Websites like Jetpens have samplers of a handful of brush pens as well for ~$25

[Anonymous No.3570059]

>>3569275
Alrighty, I'll look into them. I want to learn to hatch and such with a brush so I'm hoping for one with a good springy tip.

[Anonymous No.3570524]

>speedball india ink recommended because it's waterproof
>it's not waterproof one bit
Returned that shit for some black magic instead.

[Anonymous No.3573797]

I recently got a $50 gift card to Michael's
I want to make comic books
what should I buy?

[Anonymous No.3573929]

Yall and your pens ain't nobody posted markers

[Anonymous No.3573948]

>>3573797
do you know how to draw yet? if you want to make comics and cant draw the human figure in like 50 different poses without reference, then just get a canson mixed media sketchbook, maybe something that has thicker paper if you want to ink your work, and get a pencil and start drawing. jim lee's youtube channel is actually a good resource for tips and tricks. he does artbook critiques and basically redlines how to make sequential art look better. check out vza on youtube as well.
if you already know how to draw id order deleter comic book paper from amazon and some micron pens. they have like a set of 10 that are pretty good

[Anonymous No.3573981]

>>3573929
I bought some markers, Zig Kurecolor warm and cool greys sets. im not decided what im gonna use for colors.

I like the copic numbering system so you can match saturation of different colors.

I also bought posca mixed whites for highlights. seen some nice stuff done with them.

non of these have arrived yet.

[Anonymous No.3574082]

Hello /ic/, I don't really know if my question would apply here, but seeing as I am going to replace my chair soon, are there any especially good chairs for doing art? If not, can you recommend any regular chairs?

[Anonymous No.3574163]

>>3573981
I like prismacolor but that's only because I'm familiar with them and fuck they're expensive

9 times out of 10 I'm using grayscale for the sheer spectrum that you can create with ten markers as opposed to the hundreds of colors and shades you would need to build a similar range of depth with color. Plus it looks cool

[Anonymous No.3574164]

>>3574082
a good chair is a good chair, unless you have one of those raised angle desks. then you want a raised stool

[Anonymous No.3574189]

>>3574163
I think you should lay down edge lines with a fineliner first before you marker. it was hard to tell what that was from the thumbnail.

I wish they did like a set of 12 reds, and 12 greens etc that matched the spectrum of the greys.

[Anonymous No.3574210]

anyone have a suggestion for a cheap raised angle desk?
>>3574164
your post reminded me about those. i find my drawings are always elongated way further than i intended and its actaully a very real problem

[Anonymous No.3574224]

>>3573797
For getting the most bang for your buck:
-smooth bristol pad, 11x14 in. is best size.
-Microns, either for creating panels or inking the whole page if you want.
-If you want to be super traditonal, get the Speedball mapping nib set and Speedball superblack india ink. Its good to also buy a cheapish round brush for thicker lines or filling in black.
-Alternatively, you can also just use brush for the inks.
-a clear grid ruler, preferably beveled.
-something for fixing mistakes: Presto whiteout, daler & rowney pro white, Copic white, I have no idea what's at Michael's but they have to have one of those things.
-good mechanical pencil or non-photo blue pencil, take your pick. And obviously, an eraser.

[Anonymous No.3574230]

>>3573929

I used to love chartpak markers because of how juicy they were and the amount of area you could cover. They were really great for more design styled sketches, where you need areas of flat color.

But honestly, I grew out of markers except for carrying one mid tone grey Tombow for sketches. They're expensive and i usually finish my work with only lighfast mediums or digitally now.

[Anonymous No.3574281]

>>3570524
some inks take longer to dry than others. i've read that inks take like 5 hours to get completly dry on your dip pens.

[Anonymous No.3574289]

>>3574189
Thanks. I've been more adamant about that recently. Drawing was from two years ago and the image posted sideways but you know. Thanks for the feedback

[Anonymous No.3574292]

>>3574210
You really gotta get your face over the table

[Anonymous No.3574424]

>>3573797

>>3574224 is mostly what I'd suggest. The Michaels nearest to me has a pitiful dip pen selection. There's a Speedball Crow Quill pen + acrylic ink blister pack, a set of drawing nibs, a set of calligraphy nibs, and that's about it. Dip pen nibs wear out, so you'll need to start buying them online anyway (japanese maru pen nibs are a great analog, and there are much better nib holders for those). Get the drawing set if they have it, but just a Hunt 102 crow quill has been a popular choice for illustrators for decades. It takes some getting used to though.

They also had a medium Pentel Color Brush, which is a fantastic brush pen.

Dr. Ph. Martin's Bleedproof White is a great white paint/ink. You'll need to water it down a bit to use it like ink, as it's more of a gouache consistency.

[Anonymous No.3574428]

>>3573797
Next time tell people or family to give you money/bank card/amazon card because Michael's overcharges a ton. You really don't want to buy anything from there unless you've got the 40% off discount.

Others gave you a pretty good run down, although check all the prices online before you actually buy. Look up artists that you like and see what tools they use. My Michael's has a horrible selection for anything art so I just use it to buy Arches watercolor paper occasionally or something that isn't really expensive like small brushes/rolls of paper/cardstock/discounted sketchbooks.

[Anonymous No.3574438]

>>3574428
>You really don't want to buy anything from there unless you've got the 40% off discount.
I forgot to say that and it's definitely true. They almost always have a 40% off a single item on their website that you can pull up on your phone and show the cashier. Probably not worth buying one item a day for you, but definitely do that if you can. A few items (that pentel brush pen) are actually cheaper with a coupon than Amazon.

[Anonymous No.3574469]

>>3551700
Does anybody knows of a good nib brand that isn't fucking Speedball?
They don't do any quality control on their shit, so their nibs end up flimsy and don't fit in the holder.
Also, manga nibs are out of the question. They're of good quality, but wear down rather fast.

[Anonymous No.3574501]

>>3551700

Staedtler's are great. They last forever and are nearly impossible to clog.

They're everything Microns SHOULD be.

I used to use them all the time when I did a lot of ink drawing. Nowadays I don't use them much, because I mainly do digital art, but if you need to ink or design anything on paper, that's the tool for it.

[Anonymous No.3574518]

>>3551700
Are staedtler's marsgraphic duo a good alternative to copics?

[Anonymous No.3574590]

>>3574469
>manga nibs
That could mean more than one type of nib. Spoon nibs, for example, last much longer than G nibs.
>They're of good quality, but wear down rather fast.
Compared to what? Every nib has a lifespan, and until someone starts making shape-memory alloy nibs they'll lose their springines if you flex them a lot. You can keep a second pen around to take the punishment of making very bold lines.

To actually answer your question, there are a few books in the artbook thread that deal with pen and ink supplies. I don't know offhand which ones. I do have Gillott 303 and 404 nibs on my wishlist and are still being made, and I vaguely recall reading something good about them, somewhere.

[Anonymous No.3574715]

>>3574469
Yes and no
I suggest you go looking on Ebay, Etsy Google ect. There aren't much notable brands in general that make pen nibs there mostly from Germany/ Europe.

There's lots of obscure websites that specialize in fountain pen nibs and stationary supplies

[Anonymous No.3574717]

[Anonymous No.3574718]

[Anonymous No.3574720]

[Anonymous No.3574721]

[Anonymous No.3574773]

>>3574518
id say no those don't look at all like copics.
there are a few alternatives to copics, google for comparisons. but that's not it.

[Anonymous No.3574910]

>>3574518

No, they are watercolor markers similar to Tombow, Le Plume, and Koi markers. Copics are alcohol based, so similar markers would be Prismacolor, ShinHan Touch, and Blick Studio Brush markers.

I can't say anything for the actual brush tip though.

[Anonymous No.3574948]

>>3574469

Jetpens carries some of the more well known calligraphy nibs, Brause 361 Steno Blue, Brause 66 Extra fine arrow, and Leonardt EF Principal. I've tried these and they all have satisfying and manageable flexibility, would highly reccomend.

Gillot nibs are fun to try out, but the softer ones can be hard to control and can easily railroad. Hank Ketchum famously used the Gillot 170, a now unmanufactured nib you have to search for on ebay, which can give you those almost brush stroke thick lines.

I think Speedball is not that bad to be honest, they either manufacture or distribute Hunts nibs, which are good beginner's nibs.

And manga nibs have great QC, so I have no idea how you're wearing yours down so quickly. I assume you're either not properly maintaining your nibs or use too much pressure while drawing. If nibs wearing out too fast is an issue, Zebra has the titanium coated G nibs, which are suppose to be extra durable.

[Anonymous No.3574988]

>>3574590
>Compared to what?
A common G nib of any brand can draw up to 20 meters of lines before becoming dull.
When I tested out G nibs on my stuff, the nib wore out after 3-4 comic pages.

That's why I said that manga nibs are out of the question. I can't be importing a whole set every time they wore out. They're of very good quality, but they don't last for shit.

Ironically, western nibs (like the Speedball ones I mentioned earlier) are of inferior quality, but last way longer that their Japanese counterparts.

>>3574715
>>3574948
Thanks. Didn't knew about Jetpens. Gonna check them out.

[Anonymous No.3575413]

>need to order drafting supply from india
>its probably going to have poo on it.

[Anonymous No.3575578]

Concerning pens, can you guys recommend me a good refillable fountain pen? The budget shouldn't be too much of an issue, but I would like to not be gouged.

[Anonymous No.3575633]

>>3569086
I have Copic multiliners and Staedtler pigment liners. I would recommend the later one because they survived being uncaped for days, didn't dry within years and stood very well being handled by children(I found out later and the nib was almost destroyed but it was able to draw fine after a couple of doodles)

Anybody tried that one shark fountain pen from Jinhao? They are dirt cheap and I'm interested because they carry a converter already.

[Anonymous No.3575637]

>>3575413
What are you ordering?

[Anonymous No.3575706]

>>3575578
What are you after in a fountain pen is the first question. Flexible nib, if yes then by how much, if no then how fine do you want it. Where do you live since that can affect your choices, etc.

[Anonymous No.3576988]

>>3575578
Try a TWSBI piston filled. DeAtramentis doc black ink.

[Anonymous No.3577026]

>>3554182
For me the Deleter 4 works great on bristol and comes out ridiculously dark and smooth if you paint it on right.

[Anonymous No.3577030]

>>3574717
>>3574718
what'd pen you use for this? would really like to know. and if you have any instructional references to be able to letter like that, that would be cool too

[Anonymous No.3577316]

>>3575637
isomars mini drafter. maybe.

[Anonymous No.3577378]

>>3575578
Pilot Metropolitan is a good base. Comes with a converter

[Anonymous No.3577855]

>>3575578
>>3577378

The Pilot Kakuno also a good beginner's pen, and the nib has a a really cute winking face.

Has anyone tried the TWSBI Go yet? It looks janky, but I'm still really interested on how good it is as a low investment, everyday pen.

[Anonymous No.3578450]

Hello my /ic/nels. I'm going to buy some shitty printer/scanner AIO and I was wondering whether any of you had any words of wisdom on the matter. Laser/InkJet etc.

[Anonymous No.3579973]

>>3578450
laser best for bw text. they take a toner which can be expensive to replace.

inkjet. that what you`ll likely find.
get something that you can use cheap copy inks in.
how do I do that u ask. you go to ebay, cheapest inks, look at models theyre compatible with

[Anonymous No.3580030]

Anyone know of any metal dip pen nib holders? Dont care for wood or plastic

[Anonymous No.3580042]

>>3578450
Ink cartridges is a scam, don't fall for it you nigger.
Buy Ink tank one instead, you won't have to buy ink cartridges every week.

[Anonymous No.3580414]

Has anyone bought art supplies off Aliexpress? I'm looking at some cheap watercolor pencils and whether they are comparable to entry level stuff like Derwent.

[Anonymous No.3581094]

>>3580042
>>3579973
Got an Epson Ecotank 2650 for half off! Fcuking pleased with my self even though it's only a shitty printer.

[Anonymous No.3582527]

>>3566556
post scans, that looks gorgeous.

[Anonymous No.3583840]

cant really contain my excitement.
the art gods were looking out for me that day.

[Anonymous No.3584476]

wtf is a rotary drafting board used for?

[Anonymous No.3584978]

>>3551704
You refill your pigment liners eh? What kind of ink do tend to use, have you tried different inks?

[Anonymous No.3584986]

>>3584978
I've used Daler-Rowney Kandahar on it and it worked fine by my experiences and that of my friends who I lent it to. I think I've used Speedball Superblack in it too but nothing else. In theory, fountain pen inks might work with it but I haven't tried those yet with it.

[Anonymous No.3584992]

>>3584986
alright cool, gives me something to work with once this set starts running out(i really do like the .05mm and .1mm in particular

[Anonymous No.3585031]

anyone fuck with smocks?

thinking about building a smock that can carry all muh brushes and memesupplies so that I can paint weird faces in exotic locations.

Also does anyone know how to sew?

[Anonymous No.3585040]

>>3584476
so you can use that edge or a square or whatever from any angle without a more complex mechanism

[Anonymous No.3585044]

>>3585031
if you have a sewing machine, like maybe borrowed off your mum or something, then sewing is pretty straight forward. well it's easy anyway but with a machine it only take a few minutes, you just look up a pattern online or buy one when you're buying the fabric.

[Anonymous No.3585469]

>>3580414
i did, i got watercolor markers, dont really recomend

[Anonymous No.3585725]

>>3561799
it is an offense to remove the clip

[Anonymous No.3585787]

>>3585725
Some of those Rotrings have their lead indicator dials set to the wrong grade too. I am a hardcore badass.

[Anonymous No.3585870]

what charcoal pencils do you fiends use?

[Anonymous No.3586061]

>>3551700
Anyone have any opinions on tables?

My shitty ikea table just went from having one telescoping leg that doesn't work to 3. Trash time.

Should I get a drafting table? Double down on a work table What do you do artes on?

[Anonymous No.3586079]

>>3585870
I don't use it, but did pick some derwent ones up in 3 shades. and desu they look the same shade to me. just saying.

[Anonymous No.3586914]

How are speedball pens vs pilot or rotring?

[Anonymous No.3586930]

>>3586061
How long have you had it? I have the same table and its been great

[Anonymous No.3586932]

>>3586061
>>3586930
Wait, do you know that the black ends and the lower part of the legs can be tightened by rotating them around?

[Anonymous No.3586934]

>>3586930
Like 15 months with 8 months of daily use. One of the telescoping leg components seemed like it got fucked in a move downstairs, and then I was trying to finally fix that one without having to take the shit off the table when I realized that the one opposite of it had slowly extended out, so then when I was trying to adjust that one the telescoping thing seemed like it got stripped and stopped working, so then I was looking at a 3rd one to see how it functioned and then it now it's not tightening either.

And I'm planning on basically getting rid of everything in my living room anyway this week so if it's still fucked after I flip it I'll either try and jerry all of them or just get something else.

I thought I'd appreciate being able to have a slanted surface that big more. Plus I wanted to mount a big ol hospital arm thing I have for monitors but I idk if it could handle it.

[Anonymous No.3587032]

>>3586914
PIlot and Rotring make fountain pens, I don't know if Speedball does. What do you mean by "How are speedball pens vs pilot or rotring?"?

[Anonymous No.3587241]

>>3568504
For vine charcoal I like this.
https://www.enasco.com/p/Jack-Richeson-Soft-Vine-Charcoal-Sticks%2B2100232?searchText=vine+charcoal

It's for the light and medium values in a full charcoal drawing.

[Anonymous No.3587270]

>>3557876
>possible to paint a masterful piece with Crayola
if you tried this the work would inevitably become about the struggle of using such shitty paint than whatever work you had planned.

[Anonymous No.3587274]

>buy expensive supplies
>never use them because feels wasteful at current skill level
>stick to shitty materials
>avoid using good paint because feels wasteful on shitty materials

fuck budgeting mindsets.

[Anonymous No.3587299]

>>3587274
I know this feel. I bought nice pad but don't have owt to put in it so I just stick to my printer paper.

[Anonymous No.3587300]

>>3587032
i think speedball makes calligraphy pens. those are way thicker though.

[Anonymous No.3587308]

>>3587299
it's getting stupid. i will have to carefully think it over if i want to use a $5 sketchbook over scrap paper, on the off chance i just want to scratch out random ideas.

[Anonymous No.3587314]

>>3587308
well I think once I get something good on shit paper I can re do it on nice paper.

or once im good enough to make everything awesome ill just move to the sketchbook.

im just not good enough for either atm.
I do like buying new art tools tho. that's addicting.

[Anonymous No.3587316]

>>3587314
You can buy acid free card stock for about 5 bucks or so. It mimics illustration board and only has trouble with large amounts of water. But it can take a beating with pens and ink.

[Anonymous No.3587320]

>>3587032
I meant the general quality associated with the brand.

[Anonymous No.3587328]

>>3587320
Speedball's quality has dipped over the decades but Pilot and Rotring's still going strong from what I know.

[Anonymous No.3587348]

>>3587328
certainly not true of the ink, speedball still makes the best fast black.

[Anonymous No.3587430]

Hoping this is an appropriate thread for this question.

Recently won a Cintiq pro 16 in an auction because it was cheap, and it works, but Wacom never made a stand for it. Is there a third party stand that anyone could recommend, or should I just figure out how to make one?

[Anonymous No.3587556]

>>3587270

....yes, that's what my point was. I would also like to add that Crayola isn't acid free or lightfast, which is the another detractor for using cheap supplies.

[Anonymous No.3587707]

What are the general pros and cons of mechanical vs wooden pencils, and can someone recommend some good pencils from both categories?

[Anonymous No.3587853]

>>3574718
note the unitorm lines
This is done with a flat tip that either doesnt flex, or is VERY stiff and not meant to flex.

You are looking at something like this
https://www.jetpens.com/LAMY-Calligraphy-Pen-Nib-1.9-mm/pd/4364#index=0
however the ones I am thinking of are folded brass.

you can also do this with a fine liner and a brush, though this is far more work and without a steady hand will show in the end result.

[Anonymous No.3587854]

woops

>>3577030
see
>>3587853

[Anonymous No.3587923]

>>3587707
pros of wooden:
-cheap
-sold literally everywhere
-can use the entire tip, so you can make cool effects with it
-comfy as fuck, very light, and you can get a grip if you feel like it

cons of wooden:
-dirty
-too expendable
-can't carry anywhere as comfortably as a mech pencil
-you really need a sharpener or a knife, and you need to keep it sharp for it to work properly

pros of mech:
-comfy, in the sense that ust a few clicks bring more lead
-uniform line
-can be carried everywhere
-cleaner than a wooden pencil for sure
-if you need different leads, you just replace those instead of getting another pencil

cons of mech:
-need leads
-cheap ones might be... well... too cheap, and might jam or break too easily
-the good ones can be expensive... not *that* expensive, but still
-the uniform line can be a con if you're more into artsy stuff

I don't think too much about wooden pencil brands, but if you need trusty mechanical pencilsthen get the Pentel p205/207, which is probably the most trustworthy mechanical pencil ever made. I'm currently using a Rotring Tikky 0.5 and it's very comfy desu.

-

[Anonymous No.3588215]

>>3586061
I had a screw cut in half from that brand before. Cheap is expensive in thw long run

[Anonymous No.3588220]

>>3587923
tl;dr wood is good for tones, mechanical pencils are good for lines

[Anonymous No.3588264]

>>3551700
The solution to scratchy dip nibs FOUND

PS: Dont try this witg your expensive fountain pen nib. You were warned

[Anonymous No.3588550]

>>3588264
And for your expensive fountain pen nibs

https://www.gouletpens.com/collections/pen-tuning-supplies/products/goulet-micro-mesh?variant=11884649545771

[Anonymous No.3588746]

>>3588264
Scratchy? what's a scratchy nib?

[Anonymous No.3590835]

>buy nice pencils from japan.
>afraid the sharpen them for the first time.
but they look so pretty

[Anonymous No.3590866]

>>3588746
A nib that scratches
the paper

[Anonymous No.3590979]

>>3590835
>10B
>10H

[Anonymous No.3590995]

>>3588264
what pen holder are you using with the maru nib?

[Anonymous No.3591032]

>>3588264
I don’t get it. Is that sandpaper?

[Anonymous No.3591045]

>>3586934
please pet that good cat

[Anonymous No.3591117]

>>3588746
sometimes nibs can scratch the paper because either they are too sharp or the paper is too feeble

>>3590995
not him but i'd guess it's some kind of western holder perhaps? japanese ones have a distinct look to them

>>3591032
using sandpaper is often reccomended along the burning method due to how they are packaged. you have to use fine sandpaper iirc

[Anonymous No.3591199]

>>3587707
Buy an 2.0mm mechanical pencil, is the best of both worlds

[Anonymous No.3591222]

Where do I get a featureless board to draw on? The plywood I got has its own wavy texture and it shows when I render.

Maybe something synthetic?

[Anonymous No.3591324]

>>3587032
I'll speed your ball

[Anonymous No.3591327]

I need a drawing Pad, Something to clip printer paper to and just draw.

Suggestions/ links plz.

[Anonymous No.3591334]

Want to do traditional animation, can't find 3 hole animation puncher anywhere.

FML

[Anonymous No.3591352]

>>3591327

[Anonymous No.3591402]

>>3591352
link!

[Anonymous No.3591467]

>>3591222
I have one of these and I enjoy it but was a bit pricey. It was cheaper than the smaller ones but I would definitely recommend 24x18 or 21x16 over 26x20. Anything wooden and cheaper is just shit that's going to warp or will come pre-warped and be unsatisfying to use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001700RFU/

[Anonymous No.3591473]

I can only find spiral bound sketchbooks but the spiral part blocks my ruler and it's driving me crazy, are there any better sketchbook designs I can buy, or should I just buy a hole puncher and get a ring binder to store my drawings

[Anonymous No.3591478]

>>3591473
or maybe there's some kind of lase pointer ruler that I'm not aware of

[Anonymous No.3591480]

I just bought a 72 pack of Prismacolor Premier Markers for $100 because I figured they'd be good to mess around with in lieu of dropping a grand on copics. So long story short how the hell do I use these damn things, anyway!?

[Anonymous No.3591643]

>>3591473

Bound sketchbooks or pads of paper.

[Anonymous No.3591758]

>>3591467

how about something that'll fit on an easel?

[Anonymous No.3591852]

>>3591480
gee, if only there was instruction online somewhere. must suck to be you and have to ask and wait to be told everything in your life.

[Anonymous No.3591860]

>>3591473
use a 6" ruler?

[Anonymous No.3592505]

What's better, Faber Castell or Prismacolor?

[Anonymous No.3592581]

Thinking about trying 3 different papers for pen+ink.
Tomoe river paper
>mainly see it used for caligraphy but looks like it could be good for ink drawing
Deleter paper
>mangaka use it so how could they be wrong
Rhodia paper
>I see hipsters using it a lot
Anyone have any input on any of these?

[Anonymous No.3592586]

>>3585031
Would be extremely easy even if your sewing skills are rudimentary. Just google sewing an apron and let your artistic intuition guide you in editing the pattern for your convineince

[Anonymous No.3592608]

>>3592581
I haven't tried Deleter but I liked Rhodia more between it and Tomoe.

[Anonymous No.3592614]

>>3592608
Why is that? Just curious. I heard tomoe paper makes the ink dry pretty slow, and also that the paper is really thin and some don't like that.
I don't know much about Rhodia other than that it's popular with hipsters.

[Anonymous No.3592667]

>>3592581
All these brands are great paper for inking, since none of them feather or bleed easily. It just depends on how thin you would want the paper, what you plan to ink with, drying time, etc.

Tomoe river is incredibly thin and feels almost like tissue or rice paper. Its great for sketchbooks with a lot of pages without feeling bulky and they're ideal with fountain pens since the drying time is slow with other ink.

Deleter paper feels good to ink on, similar thickness to smooth bristol 1 or 2 ply, and usually has convenient bleed marks printed in nonphoto blue. Great for most inking mediums.

Rhodia paper is also good, usually considered a good calligraphy practice paper since its cheap and widely available. The thickness of the paper is similar to copy paper. Also great for most inking mediums, but the drying time is notably slow.

[Anonymous No.3592685]

>>3592505

Faber Castell is better than Prismacolor in terms of quality, but the price for certain products are inexplicably higher.

[Anonymous No.3592733]

>>3592614
It's exactly cus it's kinda thin and it dries slower. Rhodia has thicker paper and it's easier for me to find, especially in larger sizes.

[Anonymous No.3593225]

>>3591327
I think Penco do one, otherwise just find some board and buy one of their clips

[Anonymous No.3593327]

>>3591334
anyone know of places i can buy em?

[Anonymous No.3593502]

On the market for a Lead Holder with some weight to it.
Any recommendations? Don't really want anything too expensive.

[Anonymous No.3593528]

so I'm look to buy some sketchbooks but I have no idea what the differences the grams make, 90 120 200, which one should I buy if I plan on doing mostly just pencil or felt tip pen sketching

[Anonymous No.3593926]

>>3593528
90gsm would do it if you just wanna pencil and do felt-tip stuff.

[Anonymous No.3594173]

Kind of art supply related, any tips on what to look out for when buying a desk? I do both traditional and digital

[Anonymous No.3594424]

>>3593502
the steadtler 925 25 2.0mm or the 925 35 2.0mm, is made from aluminum, if you want something heavier i guess the rotring rapid pro but its a very expensive

[Anonymous No.3594710]

>>3594173
do you already have an idea on what kind of desk you want?

[Anonymous No.3594937]

What's the easiest and a somewhat cost effective way to paint/sketch portably? I have a little set of W&N watercolors but the case itself is pretty terrible as a palette and wouldn't want to bring walk around with too much. I'm guessing some sort of water brush with ink or pigment washes inside of it?

[Anonymous No.3595723]

>>3593528
If you are an absolute beginner just use print paper. Dont waste your money by wasting a sketchbook.

[Anonymous No.3596749]

I currently have a gigantic mouse pad covering the entirety of my desk, when I try to draw on it, my pen keeps poking through the paper because it's a soft surface, anything sort of hard surface mat I can put on my desk to make drawing more bearable instead of removing the mouse mat?

[Anonymous No.3596767]

>>3596749
>>3591352

Or ikea has a somewhat hard plastic mat for fairly cheap
Also, why removing the mousepad is not an option?

[Anonymous No.3596770]

>>3596767
because my monitors are currently on it

[Anonymous No.3596774]

>>3592581
>>mangaka use it so how could they be wrong
That's what I'm wondering now. It feels more like 1-ply because it bends and curls under Pilot drafting ink and the Pentel brush pen. I love Deleter's B4 Type-A paper, but they've got to make it more durable!

[Anonymous No.3596893]

>>3587299
just do it mate.
light up a cig and use the expensive paper, have fun, you're buying it for use, use it :)

[Anonymous No.3596926]

>>3596749
use more sheets of paper under. that's what youre meant to do.

[Anonymous No.3597562]

255th for buying pens even though you have 300 pens already