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/fa/ - Fashion


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File: 95 KB, 620x499, Sruli-Recht-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8838639 No.8838639 [Reply] [Original]

Hi /fa/.
I don't know much about Sruli Recht, what is his aesthetic? Is there a "Sruli" look? The pictures on his site are too varied to find a precise look.

>> No.8838648
File: 20 KB, 299x235, 070815_Sruli_Recht_0041-299x235.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8838648

STOP!
Stop trying to compartmentalize everything into "looks", stop adding "core" as a suffix to everything, stop reducing clothing and dressing yourself into a set of costumes, it's fucking ridiculous.
If you don't know much about Sruli Recht, google him, see what he has to say about his work, see the scope and breadth of his work
Here's his youtube channel for one
http://www.youtube.com/user/SruliRecht
You can find a ton of stuff, just put some effort in and stop being so narrowminded

>> No.8838654

the bankrupt hack aesthetic

>> No.8838660

>>8838648
Chill dude. Designers have some sort of style in their clothing, you can find some cohesive look generally like Yohji, Rick etc.. I'm not trying to wear a costume.

>> No.8838667
File: 82 KB, 525x800, SR4-14_1024x1024.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8838667

>>8838654
Way too soon brah

gb2 shilling patty

>> No.8838676
File: 154 KB, 533x800, Yohji_Yamamoto_FW_14_40.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8838676

>>8838660
GET FUCKED
Stop being such a myopic little cunt
A designer's oeuvre is not reducible to one specific "look". Don't give me this bullshit, what the fuck do you know about Rick, to say nothing of Yohji?

>> No.8838692

>>8838676
Why are you so mad? God. Who are you to speak for them? If you can't see some sort of pattern in Yohji or Rick work, then you are some stupid blind fuck. Oh Yohji made some stuff that isn't black, doesn't mean it doesn't look like his other stuff.

>> No.8838699

>>8838692
>Why are you so mad
Because you just want an easy answer spoonfed to yourself so you can talk about your "sick Sruli look" when you're not "rocking the Rick aesthetic" in between bouts of SLP cosplay. So please, if you're not going to spend time becoming familiar with the designer's work, just fuck off, really

>> No.8838700

Here is his behance page. He appears to be a product designer. God that gun looks like shit.
https://www.behance.net/srulirecht

>> No.8838704

>>8838699
You misread my post. I don't want ONE look, I want to see what his "universe" look like. He's pretty hard to find on the internet, people only talk about his human skin ring.

>> No.8838706
File: 33 KB, 468x352, 0sruli09.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8838706

>>8838699
#BOOM
B
O
O
M

>> No.8838709
File: 95 KB, 532x800, SR4-1178827_1024x1024.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8838709

>>8838704
His website has just about his whole post '09 portfolio

fuck u talkin about

>> No.8838712

>>8838704
>He's pretty hard to find on the internet, people only talk about his human skin ring
Yeah, google is really difficult to use, you have my sympathy :(

>> No.8838724

>>8838709
>>8838712
Okay then. /fa/ wasn't made to talk about fashion and designers?

>> No.8838729
File: 62 KB, 714x475, SRULI-RECHT-A-W-2013-WHERE-THE-DARKNESS-DIVIDES-yatzer-3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8838729

>>8838724
>Okay then. /fa/ wasn't made to talk about fashion and designers?

have a sook then

>> No.8838734
File: 66 KB, 533x800, Yohji_Yamamoto_FW_14_1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8838734

>>8838724
/fa/ isn't a kindergarten where we hold the hands of little kids who can't be fucked to google anything for themselves and put in a bit of effort. I already replied to you despite how stupid your OP was, simply because Sruli's work is definitely worth looking into
If you can't take my advice in >>8838648, you can fuck right off cunt

>> No.8838738

>>8838734
Damn dude, you're so mad. What happened to you? You got #recht on SuFu or SZ? Ahah come on.

>> No.8838787

I am with you OP, I also dont really "get" SR.

Some of his stuff is quite normal, and could even be incorporated into dadcore fits (some belts, that pocket square, some wallets), whereas other stuff is just so "out there" (human flesh ring, that autoerotic asphixiation belt, the foreskin wallet) that i dont understand anything about it.

Some stuff has that whole "nordic" vibe, others is futuristic and so on.

>> No.8838867

>>8838648
This is some inspiring discussion here.

What do you have to say about Sruli's work?
I'm listening.

>>8838676
Designers do have a style which they apply when prodycing clothing.
Like a tennis player will develop their own unique stroke through mastery.
Like a No performer will begin applying uncharacteristic movements once they are proficient.

There is an overarching theme or style Sruli's oeuvre. There is nothing wrong with trying to diagnose it.

Because Deux is really just spewing shit and doesn't know how to articulate himself, here's something.

I think Sruli's work has been particularly successful in harnessing the local resources of Iceland (dork, seal skin, lamb leather, rock/mineral/gem, horse, icelandic sheep wool) to produce garments which, even if questioningly constructed and probably not reliable when trekking through Iceland (thinking particularly of When Gravity Fails) utilise contemporary technology (laser cutting and CAD shaping) to produce unusual shapes.

I often think of urban vikings or something, just vikings cracking their longboat through concrete sprawls decked in crab shaped slate Sruli wool.

>> No.8838869

>>8838654
did he actually go bankrupt?

>> No.8838876

>>8838787
There are huge divergences in his work. I still think some of the most interesting pieces were found in the furniture, accessories and foot wear (particularly the footwear).
A lot of Sruli's early work was concerned with more classical, exceptionally slim fitting suiting.

Later, I think when he moved to iceland, it took on a whole new life as a kind of 'Krakken's ilk' kind of thing, or concrete vikings.

But there are also weird phases inbetween where he'll do classic trench coats and seemingly demure shirting. Nothing is without Sruli embellishment, however.

Sorry I'm not uploading any images to display. Where I currently am doesn't have them on hand and I can't be bothered going through the website to find them.

>> No.8838883

>>8838869
No, I don't think so.

I don't ever think he needed the money, he was never particularly commerically successful but still financed shows in Paris.

I think it was a certain fatigue with the consumer base and maybe disillusion by popular perception of his work.
I don't know for sure though.

>> No.8838888

>>8838869

i googled it and i think the reference was regarding iceland going bankrupt.

>> No.8838897

>>8838888
I don't know how true that is because he showed in Paris in both 2012 and 2013.
It's not cheap.

But I would be surprised if it didn't have an impact.

Oh god, I need to re-read through the site again. Everythings been updated (again).

>> No.8838912

>>8838876
>>8838883
>>8838897
oh, but he isn't showing anymore? I do like Sruli but he is so hard to keep up with due to such little information haha

>> No.8838917

>>8838912
On hiatus from clothing design and production, as far as I'm aware.

The website is suprisingly robust in what it offers, everything else is just estoteric googling.
I found his bedroom the other day on Cargocollective.

The last project I'm aware of was Foald.
A kickstarter thing for these cardboard laptop stages.

You can find it on facebook I think under Sruli Recht Foald.
Or from his facebook - Sruli Recht.

(It has already been funded)

>> No.8838933

>>8838917
just found out about them, would of been cool to offer a bit of money. Is there any source for the hiatus announcement, or just word of mouth? And is the flagship store in Iceland still open? Visiting Denmark and Norway later this year and was interested in popping over

>> No.8838937

>>8838933
Well, nothing under Sruli Recht has been produced for a few seasons now. I think there's also something by Faust on the final page of the "designer and work" section on Style Zeitgeist announcing it.

You could email them, I think the contact is still on site.
Or ask via the facebook page.

>> No.8838945
File: 47 KB, 714x534, when-gravity-fails-sruli-recht-A-W-2011-12-Photo-Marino-Thorlacius-yatzer-22.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8838945

Srulis clothes are extensions of his experiences, much like Yohji's early early work. most feel Nordic because he brings his experiences of Iceland to his craft.

I think Sruli is most interesting because he seems to be content to shift the boundaries of art and design, and find a neat little niche. More than that he is trying to keep the crafted aspect of designer clothes, and avoid the looming fast fashion trend.

>> No.8838950

>>8838945
*tips drape

>> No.8838956

>>8838945
You said a whole bunch of nothing.

It is without question that anything produced by anyone will be a product of their experience.

Where in Sruli's clothing are you reminded of Iceland and through what?

>content to shift the boundaries of art and design
This phrase just needs to stop being found in anything outside of a gilt blurb.

I don't think that's looking to retain some sort of artisinal factor by producing everythinh house. I think it's that no venue currently exists to produce his work outside of the one he has made for himself.

If you look at Sruli's workspace it's something in between a mechanical workshop, science research lab, jewellers desk, and dressmakers abode.

>> No.8839024

>>8838945

* tips whale skin fedora *

>> No.8839032

Sruli is a bulky icelandic faggot. That's what his aesthetics are about, everything is round, everything is baggy, and everything is out-of-date.

With Sruli you will either look like a homosexual hermit or a fisherman. But if you feel like spending thousands of dollars on a drape because Sruli "carved the leather from a walrus' balls", go for it.

>> No.8839049

>>8838639
this looks fucking stupid

>> No.8839061

>>8838917

It's not Foald, it's Pillar

>> No.8839066

>>8839061
www.foald.com/

>> No.8839111

>>8838700
That gun was never meant to be used as a weapon.

>> No.8839112

>>8838639
That rifle is waifu material

>>8839066
I believe Foald is both the name of the collective/whathaveyou that worked on Foald (the project) the first time and are who Sruli works with for his current projects, the latest of which was called Pillar.

>> No.8839124
File: 61 KB, 524x800, DVNss98m36.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8839124

>>8838867
It's not that I don't know how to articulate myself (well, not fully anyway), it's that this sort of thread is lazy - you can say a designer has a specific style that permeates all their work, and while I'd say that's true, it's rarely reducible to a "look" or even an overarching theme.
>There is nothing wrong with trying to diagnose it
There is when that's the first step you take with getting familiar with a designer's work, if he can't even be bothered to google anything ("He's pretty hard to find on the internet")
I think trying to boil down anyone's work to a single look or a single phrase is pointless, it's the sort of bullshit that gets all of Ann Demeulemeester's menswear lumped together as "Poetic", or people referring to the scope of Rick's work as "Glunge" and seeing the "look" to be either a leather jacket, layered tees, jeans and boots or tees/tanks, pod shorts and sneakers. I mean, does this instantly pop into mind as Dries van Noten? I'm not cherry picking either, so much of his early work is removed from the florals and the asiatique opulence of his current work.
You've outlined what makes Sruli's work interesting to people (use of local leathers/wools, use of draping in combination with the scanner and laser cutter) - but these are all things immediately available to anyone who puts in 5 minutes worth of googling - there's a video specifically about the draping process with the half-mannequin that I posted here >>8838648
Like you said, there's "Weird phases", periods of experimentation and divergence from a "look", which is completely expected from any designer.
Perhaps I'm being overly harsh to the OP but it's just fucking lazy, and it's a moronic question. Even for all your writing, how have you pinned down Sruli's look? "Urban Viking" seems like a throwaway to be honest. Where do hakama-style pleated shorts fit into this concrete viking narrative? Where does so much of Sruli's work?

>> No.8839172

>>8838876
>concrete Vikings

This is pretty good, probably won't get much closer to a nutshell description.

I own a fair bit of Sruli, and each time a new piece has arrived I haven't been able to escape the sensation of the piece being a very raw, pared back assembly of ideas. Pretty drunk Rn and posting from bed so forgive me if this post is incoherent, but there's a vibe about Sruli I haven't felt from handling anything else in the sz/HIFASHUN bracket.

Somebody said something itt (cbf to scroll up and meme text ) about the difference between his more conventional suiting etc and the really wild stuff as if that was a faux pas or s/t?
The tailoring is immaculate from the fully canvassed jackets, through to drop shoulder knits down to stuff like tees; the trouble with a three dimensional garment the like of which you've never seen before is that it can't be fully appreciated through the internet, and this is representative of a bigger problem with people shitposting on here and elsewhere about MUH QUALITY MUH 'STHETICS etc

Junior was ranting in here at the start of the thread but he was on the right path, it's hardly a good way to look at a designer's body of work through the lens of a particular 'core', intent on distilling it into one overarching concept.

>>8839112
This is correct re foald/pillar

This post is pretty fucked tho sorry everyone

>> No.8839189
File: 46 KB, 468x351, 0sruli02.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8839189

>>8839124
When someone wants to discuss work and your first word in reply, in the first post no less, is "STOP"; I really begin to wonder whether you're talking to yourself or trying to tell other people to stop?

>rarely reducible to a "look" or even an overarching theme.
Why not? As long as you can competently explain what among the work overtime has remained true to form and in what way there shouldn't really be any restraint.

I think within Yohji's body of womens wear he attributes a lot of his, at least older collections to the suffrage and burden women face in the face of a male orientated society. That remains true until atleast... well somewhere in the 2005s+

At least the first step is asking a question or trying to have a discussion. There's nothing wrong with that. Not at all, there is interest and it's being inquired.

Sruli Recht has one website, maybe like three stockists remaining and something like a five page thread on stylezeitgeist.
Compared to Rick Owens, or whoever else that's pretty esoteric.

>I think trying to boil down anyone's work to a single look or a single phrase
Nope, as long as someone can articulate (hopefully in a competent manner) why the subject is important in frame of what it means to the surrounding produce I don't think there would be an issue.

The issue w/ the poetic thing is that poetic doesn't really claim anything, just some entitled sense of critical literature or something which is no fun in itself.

The rest of that stuff you wrote "Rick's work....current work" is just garbage, it feels like you're projecting at least. Idk.

Yeah, I've outlined a aspect of Sruli's work which is vastly interesting and no one person is doing or has made commerically avaliable internationally aside from him. I think that warrants merit. Maybe it's googlable or find-out-able in minutes but no one offered anything even close to that. They just kind of ran around saying "fuck off", like morons.

>> No.8839222
File: 19 KB, 480x320, ooh baby.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8839222

Autism-contest aside, I think I found a new grail

>> No.8839227
File: 31 KB, 504x630, 90SR SS13.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8839227

>>8839124
The draping process in itself isnt' that interesting, it's the software he uses to upsize it.
It's like what Pleats Please is... But reverse.

Yeah dude, totally expected. I'm not at all surprised when one second he's making these cubic shouldered crab man reindeer jackets with ridiculous throne collars and then the next (within the same "collection" he'll produce fine fedoras styled with trench coats and open toe sandals).
p.s. now that I look at it again, it isn't all that jarring, well at least until concentrated.

You're actually just being overly harsh.

Nope, I'm quite content with urban viking.
How? Because when I think of vikings I think of titans with very wide, squarish shoulders, coarse entertwined wools, leather footwraps, Kind of these huge cone shaped things.
Except they're wearing ridiculously tight, light coloured shorts.
When I think urban, like wet tarmack, pearl concrete, fractured pavement, that weird smell of the road after a sun shower

There isn't really an image that exists in Sruli's that really makes that but...It'd be like this upper...and lower I'll post next

I'll just begin creating what i think the world would be with the images hes produced.

You can say it's a throwaway if you want, but you have to be able to compete for it to be meaningful.

> hakama-style pleated shorts
I don't know what you're talking about or if you even get it... it doesn't need be accurate or faithful to anything but my own interpretation.
It doesn't even matter if you don't get it, because you won't (because you're lame).

Does anyone know that sound in Age of Empires two (conq.) where the viking spec. unit longboat glides into shores or through thin ice. That's the sound but more fractury~, like cracking cement (from a const. site)

>> No.8839230

>>8839222
>not the and/or rifle
pls

>> No.8839233

>>8839227
gosh ur so passive aggressive

>> No.8839237

>>8839230
**boots and/or rifle

>>8839227
junior pls, have you ever even walked near a construction site in your life?
Cement doesn't crack; I know I'm being a pedant but fuck it.

>> No.8839238
File: 446 KB, 1200x777, d8999ec1b069bc2c2e9978c0aca66131.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8839238

>>8839172
> really wild stuff as if that was a faux pas or s/t?
What?
Yeah, the old suiting was hardcore, the newer jackets are shit and flop around like a dilapidated dildo.

>three dimensional garment the like of which you've never seen before is that it can't be fully appreciated through the internet,
Sorry pal, I'm going to need to stop you there and ask you shove your privillage right back up your ass. Just because you're incompetent doesn't mean everyone else is incompetent.
MAYBE it won't be fully appreciated through the internet but when something from their professional lookbook comes out fitting like someone forgot where the pectoral girdle is, or even half of the back muscles I don't ask 'MAYBE IT'S BETTER IF I THROW 500EUROS AT IT FIRST?!?"

> representative of a bigger problem with people shitposting on here and elsewhere about MUH QUALITY MUH 'STHETICS etc
I don't know where you're going

>start of the thread but he was on the right path, it's hardly a good way to look at a designer's body of work through the lens of a particular 'core', intent on distilling it into one overarching concept.
No one insinuated that, OP wanted a discussion not a bunch of lame cunts.

Go to bed, you're drunk, and stupid.

The bottom would be something like this.

>> No.8839247
File: 113 KB, 670x800, 1SR AW12.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8839247

>>8839237
Yeah, I wrote cement but I was thinking concrete.
My entire family are civil engineers.

Seer

>> No.8839250

>>8839189
Is it a discussion? Is it "what do you think of Sruli's work?" "What do you find interesting about his work?". They don't want any discussion, it seems like what they want is a cut-and-dried answer to two ridiculously simplistic questions that they can internalize before looking further into someone's work themselves and forming their own conclusions.
It breeds the sort of mentality that leads to this kind of thread >>/fa/thread/S8697081
It might be an impetus for discussion, and if so, I guess it's somewhat worthwhile, but as a thread starter itself, it's worthless. Until you we here it was just someone getting pissed because I told them to do some work themselves?
You say "OP wanted a discussion", but that's really overly generous, he wanted a simple, digestible answer to his two questions, it's not even something as simple as "What make Sruli good/interesting?"
It would be as bad as going to /mu/, and asking of say a relatively varied but popular band with an evolving sound (Rather than just an eclectic oeuvre, like Boris) like Radiohead, and asking "What's Radiohead's aesthetic? Is there a "Radiohead" sound?" - to which the reply *should* be "no there isn't, go listen to the albums yourself"

>> No.8839256

use.the.fucking.name.feature
you guys all sound the same and its hard to tell how many people are talking right now and who is who get a hold of yourselves this is what names and trips are for not for shitposting and establishing 4chan identity

>> No.8839258

>>8839256
If Turny wanted to, he could easily contact me on skype, but I enjoy responding somewhere where it can be archived and looked at in the future

>> No.8839260

>>8839256
Oh no poor baby

>> No.8839275
File: 404 KB, 1200x777, 6ee54900394ce411e9037fcd1b4fef45.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8839275

>>8839250
Maybe, but when I look to engage a topic I'm interested in I'll at least try and interpret the question in a way so that my reply is open ended. You know, because I posted in the thread for the purpose of satisfying myself and talking about something I like.
Not because I want to talk about "this is how you should have a conversation" which has officially concluded.

You breed that through your shitty engagement.
You can spend the entire thread cursing OP because he didn't format the question in a way that complemented how YOU wanted the question but at the end the only way for the thread to continue is through conversation, not rambling on about random shit and telling people to read the content otherwise they're not allowed to ask questions.

officially:
> "this is how you should have a conversation" which has officially concluded.

Helmets.

>> No.8839296
File: 108 KB, 533x800, DVN0104.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8839296

>>8839189
I actually agree with you regarding Yohji's womenswear having an unusually long theme, but it's hardly the standard. I'm not denying designers reference points that they continually come back to or "looks" that they're comfortable with either - nor do I deny Sruli does that. Simply that its dangerous to think of his work in just one style or just one look, especially when you're unfamiliar with it. It's myopic.
You can disregard the rest as "garbage", but it's this kind of primary engagement with people's work, through buzzwords et al, to see people like Fark describing all of Owens' work as "Glunge", hence the example. DvN was just the first example to pop to mind of presenting radically different looks/collections at different points in their career - and that was more of an evolution over an arc - see SS98 compared to AW02 compared to SS14. Sruli is more... eclectic within the same seasons, as you said, which makes this sort of myopic compartmentalization even harder for me

It's googlable, I pointed out that much in my first post, I even linked him to the youtube channel, outlining multiple facets of Sruli's work - including the draping/scanning/upsizing/laser cutting process. I offered him that, he wanted a simpler answer - I don't have one. Was I cunt? Yes, aren't I often a cunt?

>> No.8839321

i have personally spoken to the dude. i went to highschool with one of his sisters and i only realised recently. she gave me his personal facebook and i shot him a message and had a brief chat...nice dude

>> No.8839325

>>8839296
And not a cop out, but it's 11, I think I'll brew one more cup of tea and go to bed. If the thread is up, I'll try and respond to >>8839227 and >>8839275 tomorrow. Isn't it 3 in Auckland right now?
Anyway, if it's not up, hopefully I can respond via skype or something? Or ask Q for my fb if you're interested. Or you know my name?

>> No.8839358
File: 34 KB, 450x630, 86SR SS13.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8839358

>>8839296
>unusually long theme
I never said that

>standard
Of?

> dangerous to think
Oh god, bed sounds good.

> one style or just one look
Well, there are obviously a multiplicity of looks that can be generated with what exists. The opposite is also true where there may only be one look and someone might be able to rationalise in that form (all central to something).
Like that one time Christian interpreted that one Damir Doma collection as a bunch of Turkish Eggs.
tl;dr; think whatever, just justify it.

>unfamiliar with it.
Need to grind that wiki sum moar son.

It's not garbage because I disagree, it's just incredibly contrived and, as much as I hate to say, projecting.

> Fark describing all of Owens' work as "Glunge"
I have no problem with that, it sounds like a fun discussion.
Isn't Grunge like a reaction to Glam anyway?

idk anything about dvn, something about antwerp 6 and loving printed trousers.

>as you said
No. Justify it for yourself, don't just cite me you shitlord.

>It's googlable, I pointed out that much in my first post,
No you didn't. You just told people to use google.
You literally just whined, spewed some nonsensical shit, and told someone to fuck off (like a moron)
You pointed out nothing -nothing-, as far as conversation is concerned, just some abstract links. You did no one a service by telling someone to fuck off and use google and youtube. People want conversation, they don't want to be spoon fed (well... most people don't).

You're actually like, the most limp wristed shit head on the internet. Whenever I read anything where you become slightly abrasive I immediately consider the prospect of just asking you a question, watching you fizzle and fold because you're actually. Totally inept.

>outlining multiple facets of Sruli's work - including the draping/scanning/upsizing/laser cutting process.
well done, you narrated the video
you EVEN linked it.

pajamas

>> No.8839687

>>8839358

a, resist the urge to continue.