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/fa/ - Fashion


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8395820 No.8395820 [Reply] [Original]

[DESIGNER DISCUSSION]

DIOR HOMME "Hedi Era" vs Now

In every discussion on Dior pieces someone invariably pipes up "are they Hedi era tho, cos you know those are the only ones are worth owning"

Okay, you say that, but can you detail for me exactly why that is? What happened the second after Slimane left Dior that made the quality immediately terrible and not worth buying?

Is it just idiots rehashing shit they heard once? I'm not talking about runway shows here, just the final product.

In a similar vein Raf Simons moving production to Portugal from Italy. I want someone who has handled both versions and has an understanding of intricate details to tell me WHY they are worse.
Did they start using worse quality leather, different stitching methods etc.? Labor cost cutting does not count as an answer, because as long as the final product hasn't been affected that doesn't answer the question.

>> No.8395830

>>8395820
its valid, because when hedi was at dior is when he started the whole waif boy thing. Hedi isnt really a designer at all, he couldnt make a garment himself like others, but he's a legendary stylist. watch some of the early shows and you'll see his inspiration in so many other artists, even last winter ann with the cotton poplin tie on sleeves was kind of a salute to one of his shows.

>> No.8395984

>>8395830
Right, so no quality was affected when he left, I assume the denim cuts stayed the same, so why are people so cynical about Dior Homme pieces post Hedi era?

>> No.8396038

>>8395984
thats not necessarily true. I dont own any dior era hedi pieces, but I believe when he left the design team was changed as well and they took it in a new creative direction so could've changed the denim design up completely or cut costs because of the market.

Just look at how ysl production quality and especially the jeans have changed since yves left and hedi came back.

Hedi is constantly demanding outrageous pricepoints though.

I think seig had or handled some hedi dior jeans. They were a big thing back in early /fa/. maybe he could troll you later or something.

>> No.8396054

>>8396038
not that i'm doubting many fuccbois just mindlessly parrot whats told to them without question, because i've seen it happen, tho. Just not in this case.

>> No.8396132

>>8396038
>yves left and hedi came back

The line right there just screams that you know nothing about ysl history at all. yves stopped designing decades ago and before hedi stepped in it was nicolas ghesquiere.

The quality didn't change because even though the designers changed, Dior Homme still used the same factories.

>> No.8396144

>>8395820
Kris van Assche is a vastly better designer than Hedi. People were just bitching, because he stopped doing nuthugging skinny jeans and nme-core shit the moment he got appointed head designer at Dior Homme. It seems like people still love this indie rocker pls go back to 2004 look, which is what Hedi is doing now at SL,too.

>> No.8396150

>>8396132
>before hedi stepped in it was nicolas ghesquiere

It was Stefano Pilati, you loser.

>> No.8396158

>>8396132
So everything is still exactly the same? It's just people talking shit? Using it as a bs excuse to demand higher prices for older DH?

>> No.8396203

>>8396144
kva is garbage smh

>> No.8396210

>>8396158
Quality is the same. For example, Hedi-era DH made in japan denim is the same quality as KVA-era DH denim because their from the same factory.

Thats why a lot of people claim that Saint Laurent Paris denim isn't that great as KVA-era DH denim. Probably because the denim factory that Hedi contracted for DH is now working with KVA-era DH and can't do buisness with SLP for legal reasons.

>> No.8396230

>>8396203
This kind of response is retarded and counterproductive

>>8396210
Interesting! Thanks. It's strange that there's been such a marked increase in SLP sales recently then. Maybe people just following Hedi? But if he has no input in the actual design/cuts and quality like >>8395830 said
then I see no real reason for it.

>> No.8396234

>>8396158
part of the reason is, like everything else you're paying out your ass for the NAME

>> No.8396249
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8396249

>>8396203

>> No.8396260

>>8396230
There is a marked increase in sales because the previous ysl designer, pilati, was a total fuckwit. But I don't see a huge craze for SLP denim that Hedi-era DH denim had when it first came out.

>> No.8396641

>>8396203
>>kva is garbage smh
I genuinely feel sorry for you if you think that.

>> No.8396685
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8396685

>>8396203
kris @ dior >>>>> hedi @ dior

>> No.8396715
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8396715

>>8396685
i agree mayn

>> No.8396726

>>8396715
that fit must look awful irl

>> No.8396951

>>8396132
Wrong Hedi worked with Yves whilst he was still alive and set Hedi up to take over but the company got sold and Tom Ford was appointed designer, Hedi left and then signed a deal with Dior starting the Dior Homme line (before that it was Dior Monsieur)

>> No.8396966
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8396966

>>8396685
When Hedi left Dior the house was heading more towards the style of KVA era Dior of the last 4-6 seasons (see F/W 07/08), when KVA took over in it looked like Hedi's early work at Dior. For some reason when Hedi moved to SLP he back-flipped and went back to the indie rocker however he's showing some mild progress in mens line to be abit more modern.

>> No.8397180

>>8396951
>>8396966
you trolling?

1) We were discussing slimane taking over pilati and rebranding YSL to SLP. You misunderstood. And either way, Slimane would have taken over Alber Elbaz in 2001, not Yves, who retired in 1997.

2) All of KVA's work at DH looks nothing like Slimane's. If you pay enough attention, its so easy to pick apart peices that were Slimane or KVA on ebay because KVA really sucks at designing.

>> No.8397326

>>8397180
I'm talking more about loosening the silhouettes whilst still keeping a tailoring aspect. You can't honestly look at S/S 09 by KVA and think thats not 90% Hedi, right down to the metallics and colour , though I agree the pieces on their own don't look as great as the similar Hedi pieces. If you look at F/w 11 and 12 you can see an obvious progression from Hedi's last winter show in 08 in terms of the silhouette.

>> No.8397352

ITT: Opinions

>> No.8397562

>>8397180
>1) We were discussing slimane taking over pilati and rebranding YSL to SLP. You misunderstood.
no, you misunderstood. I'm the originalfag. I skipped a few steps, but I really did mean after yves left. I was talking about a change in his pricepoints and quality. around his peak.

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