/fa/ - Fashion

[Mifune No.6070321]

bit of a slow poke...

but I finally checked out SLP FW13.

I was underwhelmed to say the least...

It could have been a collection from ANY OTHER fashion house. Almost feels like a bunch of others thrown together infact, the coats, the leather... the fucking plaid shirts... ugggh

[Anonymous No.6070331]

Rehash from his dior days

Hedi is a one trick pony

[Anonymous No.6070337]

>implying you wouldn't cop

Also what you said about this coming from ANY other fashion house is some bullshit you took from other ppl and tried to make as your own. This collection is 100% hedi slimane and no other. The tailoring is totally unforgiving. People who are wearing this have to be skinny.

[Anonymous No.6070366]

SLP has been the collection that's grown on me the most over the last 1-2 months.

It's excruciatingly wearable and cool, also the fabrication is insane, the plaid shirts have a sort of burnout effect applied to them and are semi sheer in person. It's actually really cool and adds a whole different dimension to layering. Also please find me someone else who is doing leather better at the moment. The whole issue with leather stuff is you typically have people doing it in these really old really hokey designs, ultra modern leather gear is actually hard as fuck to come by. That or it's got an artisanal shtick to it. If you want a leather jacket or pants that either 1. doesn't look like it belongs on someones very uncool dad or 2. should be in a museum (or a garbage dump...) then SLP is the answer at the moment. Rick's quality has dropped hard and everything but the moto's are overdesigned fashion kid shit

But yeah on the whole lots of insanely wearable and very cool stuff in ultra luxe fabrics, it's Dior Homme all over again (which I loved) and I feel like people are hating because it's ingrained in us that fashion has to change or that you can't keep doing the same thing again. What else do people expect Hedi to do? You don't just radically change your aesthetic and design principles because you took a break to photograph celebrities.

[Mifune No.6070370]

>>6070337
I don't really think i need to use other people's opinion when it is so blatantly clear that he's lifted from other people collections or worse... produced such a bland collection that it might as well be someone elses.

All you can do is hide behind your own bullshit "The tailoring is totally unforgiving".... what on earth are you even talking about? WHAT DOES THAT MEAN hahaha

The coat I posted in the OP is identical to the one I have from Helmut Lang which I purchased in 2003...

There is nothing special about his tailoring anymore, people have taken off from where he left off and gone beyond, Junya and TB for example.

I don't think Skinny is the right phrase, down right anorexic given what the models look like.

and nope, I wouldn't be spending 500 dollars on a plaid shirt that look like it was stolen from Kurt Cobain's corpse.

>>6070331
I dont want to write him off yet, but after SS13 and now this... man... hope his refreshed view on the world from his departure shows up somewhere along the line.

[Anonymous No.6070390]

>>6070370
>"The tailoring is totally unforgiving"
I was implying that his aesthetic hasn't changed and isn't compromised in order to sell to other demographics. Hedi knows his audience and isn't trying to be any other designer.

[timber No.6070393]

>>6070337
>u cant wer em unless u skinny
what a pathetic excuse for a distinct artistic identity

not that i agree w/ reducing hedi as a designer 2 that. i think hes made sum valuable contributions n introduced or mayb re-introduced trends w/o which the fashion world wud b a vvvvvvery different place BUT i also think rocker chic feels a lil anachronistic in 2013

>implying the real crime wasnt the womenswear n e wayz

[timber No.6070399]

>>6070393
!!!! srry 4 the thumbnail

[Mifune No.6070413]

>>6070393
i didn't want to bring up womenswear... mainly cause I don't possess the knowledge nor vocab to voice my dissent.

>>6070390
I understand that, but you're essentially admitting Hedi is out of touch. His 'demographic' -i have an issue with that term- has definitely changed since he left DH and the issue isn't that he's not trying to be someone else, he's showing that he hasn't really evolved. It's also another thing when you re-invent Dior, but the house of YSL had a much better defined male set of aesthetics which he is abandoning wholesale to simply continue his own vision, which isn't inherently a negative thing to do...but I just don't feel the risk is paying off.

[Anonymous No.6070423]

>>6070393
You might think so, but its one of the factors I'm such a hedi slimane fanboy. It is ridiculously hard to find nice fitted clothes that fit my frame (5'8 105 lbs). Even Karl Lagerfeld agrees with this sentiment

"On November 1, 2000, I decided that I was no longer happy with my physique. Until then, I had got along fine with my excess weight and I had no health problems (or – which would be worse – emotional problems), but I suddenly wanted to wear clothes designed by Hedi Slimane, who used to work for Saint Laurent and now creates the Dior Homme collections. But these fashions, modelled by very, very slim boys, required me to lose at least six of my 16 stone.
I had already begun to limit my purchases from Japanese designers – I had seen a bit too much of their oversized designs and I was tired of wearing them. They had given me good and loyal service over more than 10 years – it was my body I was no longer satisfied with. I said to myself: "You work in fashion and fashion means change. If you don't like your image, you only have to change it."

[Anonymous No.6070433]

>>6070399
lol tumblr core

[Anonymous No.6070444]

>>6070370

Not the guy you're talking to but I need to interject because your post is retarded.

>I don't really think i need to use other people's opinion when it is so blatantly clear that he's lifted from other people collections or worse

Huh? The initial reaction was that it was 100% a Dior Homme rehash (which he designed, which means he's ripping himself off, which means he isn't really ripping off anyone).

So which is it, he stole everything from other people or he stole everything from himself?

>All you can do is hide behind your own bullshit "The tailoring is totally unforgiving".... what on earth are you even talking about? WHAT DOES THAT MEAN hahaha

Everything is cut stupidly slim, there's almost no difference between the mens and womens sizing because the mens is so small. The denim is even more tapered than Dior Homme was (which already had a reputation for being skinny as hell). No one else is more known for this type of thing than Slimane. What that guy is saying is this is a great example how no one else would do a mens collection like that. In other words you're an idiot for thinking he's ripping someone else off or doing a collection like everyone else when it's so blatantly Hedi.

>The coat I posted in the OP is identical to the one I have from Helmut Lang which I purchased in 2003...

Okay now I'm not even sure why I started replying to this post without having read the whole thing first. You're obviously a gigantic idiot. You haven't even seen the coat in the OP in person. Does Helmut Lang have a patent on notch lapels and mid thigh hems? Should we go find every other person that did an overcoat for FW13-14 and forward the pictures to Mr. Lang's lawyer?

[Anonymous No.6070503]

>>6070413

Once again, different guy replying to your post but you're continuing to be retarded.

>His 'demographic' -i have an issue with that term- has definitely changed since he left DH

No it hasn't, do you even know who his demographic at DH was? Young money, party kids, rent boys, people trying to emulate all of the above, and anyone who wanted a killer pair of pants. His demographic is exactly the same, is still out there, and will always be out there. Most have just been getting their fix from Balmain and Rick but Balmain doesn't have the effortless cool and Rick doesn't have the brand recognition and star power. There will always be a demographic for Hedi's clothes and the fact that SS13 is currently selling out is proof enough.

>It's also another thing when you re-invent Dior, but the house of YSL had a much better defined male set of aesthetics

Are you fucking kidding me? No it fucking didn't. You couldn't have a more feminine brand than YSL barring Chanel. Yves never even touched the mens side when he was around. Please define the YSL man for me because he didn't fucking exist beyond a handful of logo printed tee's prior to Hedi. You want to talk about bland, go check out what Stefano Pilati was doing with the menswear.

[Mifune No.6070527]

>>6070444
Why did I waste my time read that crap? I thought a post that long surely would contribute something worthwhile. Nope, same old fuccboi ad hominem.

>>Huh? The initial reaction was that it was 100% a Dior Homme rehash (which he designed, which means he's ripping himself off, which means he isn't really ripping off anyone).

I never said it was a 100% DH rehash, did I?

I don't get how a genius like yourself could make a giant leap of logic there but fail to comprehend the previous points I made. I don't know what's up your arse but you're acting like a total cunt.

Contribute something or go eat a bag of sugar and get your mum to suck your dick for insulin.

[Mifune No.6070562]

>>6070503
>>No it hasn't, do you even know who his demographic at DH was?

Bruv, I get you're trying to make a point, but you have no basic understanding of sociology, economics or how the consumer world operates.

Do you think the market and the entire fashion world STOPPED moving and waited until Hedi returned to start changing again?

You genuinely think the world and the fashion market has remained the same at the high end despite everything that's happened in the last 6-7 years?

I love how you're just busy spouting bullshit without a hint of actually arguing why the SLP collections are not an unassorted and uninspired heap.

YSL had Tom Ford and Stefano Pilati before Hedi. What did Christian Dior have in menswear before? Calm down and don't actually observe and read the arguments you're popping veins at.

Yelling at the top of your lungs and calling people retard just shows how retarded you are. Grow up.

[turnleft !!t/GvfGACpW7 No.6070559]

>>6070527
I think he's write tbh.

You shouldn't write off a brand simply because it seems like it's taking inspiration from other designers.
As long as something isn't 100% referential I think it has something to provide.

I really think it's a good thing that a designer has a sort of strong focal point or at least a loyal identity.

Also, the helmut lang identical piece thing was dumb...It's a really hard to say something is a rip of x since it's ultimately based in something much deeper so it's effectivel y a rip of x of y who got inspiration for it by looking at a tree etc.

[Mifune No.6070597]

>>6070559
You've missed the point too bruv.

I'm being misquoted, but at least you're not acting like a cunt too.

I never said I was writing SLP off. Inspiration is one thing but no one has been able to counter the argument i made about Hedi NOT EVOLVING. Having your own unique identity as an argument is intellectual laziness when the collection looks like it could have been done by anyone else and infact had been

The Helmut Lang point was not stupid, but perhaps inadequate in isolation. I couldn't be bothered pointing the other pieces in his collection that could have been done by anyone.

The HL point was against the argument that this was somehow a distinctively Hedi show. I call bullshit on that since the coat is identical to HL down to the "unforgiving tailoring". I was making a point against arguments that simply hide behind rhetoric. I think you're doing the same thing, using the designers reputation over how crap the collection actually is.

So expand that HL point to other pieces of clothing.

[Anonymous No.6070609]

Miffy I agree with your points. Hedi just feels like a gimmick designer right now riding on a wave of "hey remember me". Truth be told though its the media hype around him that is doing most of that.

[Anonymous No.6070650]

>>6070527

>I never said it was a 100% DH rehash, did I?

And I never said you did, I said everyone else did, which is why you're being stupid. Seriously, now that you've seen the collection, go read some reviews. Everyone else is complaining about how Hedi is being nothing but self referential and here you are complaining that he ripped off other people too much. Do you understand what I'm trying to say here? No one else came to the same conclusion you did because it's wrong and stupid. How can you keep claiming Hedi can't get with the times and simultaneously say he is ripping everyone else off? It's one or the other.

Also:

>Nope, same old fuccboi ad hominem
>I don't know what's up your arse but you're acting like a total cunt.
>go eat a bag of sugar and get your mum to suck your dick for insulin.

Oh the ironing!

>>6070562

>YSL had Tom Ford and Stefano Pilati before Hedi.

Yeah and what did they do with the menswear line? Certainly not develop a cohesive aesthetic. The only thing I ever saw out of that camp was the odd logo printed tee or sneaker. I seriously don't understand how you can believe that YSL had a defined aesthetic for their men's line, and that Hedi is ruining it by bringing it more attention than it's seen since oh I don't know, the last time he was designing for it maybe?

As for your tirade about the fashion world "changing" and about how Slimane apparently needs to mix it up or get out, someone much wiser than I has already said everything I need to about the topic:

"The more things change, the more they stay the same" - Alphonse Karr (1808-1890)

[turnleft !!t/GvfGACpW7 No.6070665]

>>6070597
i think when 3 people 'misinterpret' a single post something has to be said about the delivery ._.

I feel like a lot of people could have done what raf did pre2000s
I feel like people can do what Balmain does.
I feel like people can do what KVA does.
I feel like a lot of people can do what BBS does.
I feel like a lot of people can do what AW does.
>In context of design.

That's not to say I think these designers are bad but it's to say that without a doubt no one could have executed Heidi's vision but Heidi and that is why SLP took him.
>Having said that I haven't handled any of his work.

Umm...When looking at a outfit the product of it is not = to the sum of its parts so it's not really a solid point trying to break down and derive each piece and it's source since effectively what makes a look (IMO) is how it's influence can be linked through a variety of things...

Idk i dont think breaking down a single aspect and saying it's x of x really means anything unless the look was 100% one source then maybe but otherwise...No, it means nothing.
>PH stole his ideas from aspects of 17th cent Europe, thereby bad.

I don't even follow Heidi v.closely, I couldn't tell you what year his first collection was etc so I can't really speak of his reputation.

Unforgiving tailoring sort of means exactly what it implies. It's not very forgiving to things that don't fit. Maybe in contrast to some Yohji pieces which are very. This is ofc. personal pref.

I just think you don't like the collection idk but your points aren't very strong I don't think but I don't think this is worth getting rustled over since there is nothing wrong with not liking something.

[Mifune No.6070739]

>>6070665
>So which is it, he stole everything from other people or he stole everything from himself?

So this was a rhetorical question? and no you implying I said DH was a rehash? Because that makes no sense unless you're saying I called the collection a DH rehash.

>>Oh the ironing!
Like a typical cunt you've misused the word irony, it's not ad hominem when i've attacked your argument. You stupid cunt.

>>Yeah and what did they do with the menswear line?
More than anything that came before Hedi at Dior, I said YSL had a better defined male aesthetic and you haven't done shit to counter it.

>>Yeah and what did they do with the menswear line?
Dear lord... you went full retard. Can argue your own points so you've gotta resort to more bullshit rhetoric? Thanks for playing kiddo.

>>i think when 3 people 'misinterpret' a single post something has to be said about the delivery ._.

Yes, I think it means I need to aim lower ;)

>>That's not to say I think these designers are bad but it's to say that without a doubt no one could have executed Heidi's vision but Heidi and that is why SLP took him.
Still not arguing against why his collection is uninspiring. I think that's all I'm after, for someone to actually point out why this is a good collection. This isn't just any ol hack we're talking about. It's Hedi.

And to be honest dude, I'm not sure if you actually made a point in the second half of your post. So the Paul Harnden is lost on me, explain it to me from Umm...

>>Unforgiving tailoring sort of means exactly what it implies
We've moved on from there and I wrote earlier why it's a troubled term.

>>I just think you don't like the collection
lol that's pretty obvious, but I'm asking for reasons to like it.

[Mifune No.6070747]

I fucked up on the quoting witht he last one. sorry.

>>6070650
>So which is it, he stole everything from other people or he stole everything from himself?

So this was a rhetorical question? and no you implying I said DH was a rehash? Because that makes no sense unless you're saying I called the collection a DH rehash.

>>Oh the ironing!
Like a typical cunt you've misused the word irony, it's not ad hominem when i've attacked your argument. You stupid cunt.

>>Yeah and what did they do with the menswear line?
More than anything that came before Hedi at Dior, I said YSL had a better defined male aesthetic and you haven't done shit to counter it.

>>Yeah and what did they do with the menswear line?
Dear lord... you went full retard. Can argue your own points so you've gotta resort to more bullshit rhetoric? Thanks for playing kiddo.

>>6070739
>>i think when 3 people 'misinterpret' a single post something has to be said about the delivery ._.

Yes, I think it means I need to aim lower ;)

>>That's not to say I think these designers are bad but it's to say that without a doubt no one could have executed Heidi's vision but Heidi and that is why SLP took him.
Still not arguing against why his collection is uninspiring. I think that's all I'm after, for someone to actually point out why this is a good collection. This isn't just any ol hack we're talking about. It's Hedi.

And to be honest dude, I'm not sure if you actually made a point in the second half of your post. So the Paul Harnden is lost on me, explain it to me from Umm...

>>Unforgiving tailoring sort of means exactly what it implies
We've moved on from there and I wrote earlier why it's a troubled term.

>>I just think you don't like the collection
lol that's pretty obvious, but I'm asking for reasons to like it.

[turnleft !!t/GvfGACpW7 No.6070753]

>>6070739
I THINK IT MENS UR A FAGLORD U GEY FUQ

It's harder to find reasons to like a collection if you're already in the preset of 'not liking it'.

IDC THO UR GEY IV GT WRK 2 DI

[Natalie Portman !Nat9xVTTmU No.6070763]

From what I understood I think that the major criticism within the fashion industry towards what Hedi did was this:

They are furious at the fact that hedi as associated the house with this show. Another poster talked about how fashion is change and change is good. Yeah, see pic. The SL house probably embraces that concept too, they just don't want it associated with the house, it's a matter of respect and responsibility by sticking to the ideals and tradition.

[Natalie Portman !Nat9xVTTmU No.6070770]

>>6070763
forgot pic

[Anonymous No.6070807]

>>6070747

>I said YSL had a better defined male aesthetic and you haven't done shit to counter it.

Yes I have, I've already told you the menswear line up until this point was just YSL logo tee's and the rolling sneaks. Look at how many big time stockists like Lusia Via Roma and Mr. Porter have picked up YSL since Hedi took over. There's a reason so few stores were carrying it during the Tom Ford and Stefano Pilati years, because it sucked and was uninspired. Seriously, where do you get off thinking there was any sort of "YSL man" aesthetic to "ruin" in the first place. No one was even carrying or wearing it for fucks sake.

Every single one of my posts in this thread:

>>6070650
>>6070503
>>6070444
>>6070366

has been well written and thought out, has tried to convey why I think SLP is great and will sell through and has corrected the many inaccuracies you've presented. You in return have done nothing but fling insults and wallow in your own ignorance. You don't know anything about the clothing or designers we're discussing and it's painfully obvious. How about you just admit at this point that you didn't want any intelligent discourse when you made this thread, you just wanted a team of fuccboi sycophants to eat out your namefag ass and call it a day.

I've posted in one thread over the last 2 weeks and this was it, people wonder why no one knowledgeable posts on /fa/, people like you are the reason why.

[Anonymous No.6070856]

>>6070807
#bangbang

[Mifune No.6070865]

>>6070807
You're still acting like a cunt.

YSL still had a better define male aesthetic than Dior before Hedi took over both. But that's not even the main tenet of the argument so I don't get why you're getting bogged down.

FFS actually argue against something that's not trivial.

God did it take you this long to argue "Because it will sell, it's a good collection?".

>>I've posted in one thread over the last 2 weeks and this was it
Keep going, your viewpoint whilst shit is still better than most of the stuff that happens here.

[Anonymous No.6071138]

>>6070807
No it hasn't. It's just you two fuccbois trying to tell over each other with you callin people retard left right and center. I feel sorry for your moms for having to deal this type of shit in their basements.

But i'm with mif. Hedi is fuckin' hype and you're all just dick riding when you can't even afford SLP.

[Aden !!EmsnEGBoxQ5 No.6071193]

>>6070399
she looks so qt :3
I'd love to be her bf and cuddle her

[Anonymous No.6071197]

>>6071193
please leave

[Aden !!EmsnEGBoxQ5 No.6071221]

>>6070807
#ethered
#recht
#shotsfired