Overcoats

[Anonymous No.15815308]

I want to buy a big overcoat like in the picture. What should I know before investing in one?

[Anonymous No.15815329]

>>15815308
Do you want it to be warm? Fabric weight Should be 20 ounces at least.
Do you want it to be like wearing a blanket? Hem should fall to just below the knee and the chest size should be four to eight inches bigger than your real chest size. (I am a 40 and I wear a coat that measures 46)

[Anonymous No.15815333]

You want it wide enough to wear a suit jacket under, and long enough to protect your shoes from the rain.

[Anonymous No.15815338]

>>15815308
Off with my overcoat, off with my gloves!
I don't need no overcoat, i'm burning with love.

[Anonymous No.15815339]

>>15815329
What about if you won't always wear it over a jacket?

[Anonymous No.15815346]

Fabric weight is key. One of my winter overcoats is 850 oz/sqm, Fox Brothers overcoating fabric. It shouldn't fit too tight, because the air trapped inside the coat will provide warmth as well.
Also as first post said, it needs to be long enough to cover the majority of your legs.

[Anonymous No.15815348]

Fabric weight is key. One of my winter overcoats is 850 gsm, Fox Brothers overcoating fabric. It shouldn't fit too tight, because the air trapped inside the coat will provide warmth as well.
Also as first post said, it needs to be long enough to cover the majority of your legs.

[Anonymous No.15815360]

>>15815308
Go custom.

[Anonymous No.15815361]

>>15815348
Where did you get Your coat from? I'm struggling to find what I want.

[Anonymous No.15815370]

>>15815348
>weight is key
lighter being better, I take it?

[Anonymous No.15815371]

>>15815361
It's a polo coat (same type of overcoat in your picture) from Berg & Berg, the Nicolas model from last year's winter collection. They've re-released it, but the lapels are less bellied, smaller and the fabric weight is much lighter and it's not Fox Brothers. I'm not sure if I'd outright recommend this year's iteration, but I'm pleased with mine from last year.

It's a size 34/44 (XS) and it still lands right under my knees. I'm 187 cm, so a 44 which is that long is quite rare.
Only coat which is longer than this one is my Grenfell trench coat in 44, which ends around the middle of my shins. But the cutting pattern for that coat is the same one they used in the 1930s, so that is quite expected.

Berg & Berg isn't top notch quality regarding handwork, but they're good for the price I think, and they focus a lot more on fabrics than handsewn buttonholes, hand stitching etc. All in all, it keeps me extremely warm during Scandinavian winters with proper layering, while looking great, which is the most important part.

[Anonymous No.15815374]

>>15815370
No, heavier fabric. It produces a nicer fall for the garment as well as keeping you warmer.

[Anonymous No.15815405]

>>15815371
How does it fit over a suit jacket? I wear a suit or a sportcoat all the time for work so I was worried a polo coat shoulders would be constricting. I'm currently looking for raglan shouldered coats.

[Anonymous No.15815420]

[Anonymous No.15815423]

>>15815405
It's still roomy enough to fit a jacket under it. I wear extremely chunky sweaters under it and even then it's roomy enough, but then again I'm an anorexic fuck and most of my jackets or sweaters fit well under it, so YMMV.
Choosing a raglan coat would be a wise choise if you're worried about it being too constricting, due to build or whatever it may be.
I'd recommend Crombie but they've shut down for now due to covid and no updates since March. Would be sad to see a legendary brand like Crombie go under. My dad has one of their King Coats and it's roomy and fits well over suiting, even though it's not raglan sleeved.

[Anonymous No.15815427]

>>15815423
There are also Loden coats which are extremely roomy and have their own special sleeve heads. I saw one made by Schneider's when I was in the store Mettez in Paris, and I was quite impressed by it. But not everyone might like a Loden.

[Anonymous No.15815441]

>>15815308
dont be a small framed manlet

[Anonymous No.15815582]

Thoughts on this? It's a good weight.

[Anonymous No.15815916]

>>15815582
looks like it's cut fairly slim, not sure though. not familiar with spier & mackay since i'm an eurofag also this is personal preference but I'm not fond of overcoats with a fly to cover the buttons if it has a belt. feels like a robe

[Anonymous No.15817447]

>>15815582
Ugly.

[Anonymous No.15817465]

[Anonymous No.15817467]

[Anonymous No.15817471]

[Anonymous No.15817499]

>>15815339
You need a separate coat for that.

[Anonymous No.15817560]

>>15815582
Very nice. Only a pleb would say otherwise
>tweed herringbone with Donegal flakes
Great.
Be careful on sizing as the belt will allow you to winch the waistband. If you live in an area where this style can work, try to ensure the sleeves are horse riding length, meaning that they fall to the middle of your hand. This way you will protect your garments underneath and keep the cold out of you need to raise your arms.

[Anonymous No.15817569]

>>15817499
Get the fuck out of here, you must work in the outdoor wear industry. I'll buy my size and wear it comfortably with a thick jumper, and a bit baggy when it's not as cold.

[Anonymous No.15817571]

>>15815339
>>15817499
Not sure why a 46 overcoat would be worn with a 40 jacket. That’s 3 sizes different lol. Fucking massive. Assuming you can get the correct length sleeves, a good compromise between being able to wear it with and without a jacket would be a 42. Can always drop the hem in the cuff and add/remove a buttonhole. In all of my bespoke tailoring experience, we barely size an overcoat above the actual jacket. We only widen the sleeve, add about 1/4 on the shoulder width and about the same in the waist. The sleeve is usually longer by an inch or so though than the regular jacket underneath to protect the cuffs.

[Anonymous No.15817572]

>>15817569
>>15817571
You cannot have a tailored overcoat that fits with and without a suit jacket. One will either be too tight, or the other will be too big.

[Anonymous No.15817580]

>>15817572
But you’re wrong. A correctly fit overcoat is barely larger than the jacket underneath. You only need to extend the shoulder, add about 1/2 inch on the split between the 3 panels in the chest area, widen in the waist by about a 1/4, and have a larger top and under sleeve to make it fit over a jacket sleeve neatly. Obviously you would also make it longer in the body.
>t. Actual Bespoke tailor
Pic related, me drafting a pattern for a bespoke jacket. Those are the only changes that would be made to the pattern.

[Anonymous No.15817583]

>>15817580
it depends entirely on how you want the jacket to fit m8. I'm merely repeating the words of Hugo Jacomet on this one.

[Anonymous No.15817591]

>>15817583
Alright then, that’s his own style. Though, it must be said that whilst Hugo has style, he ain’t a tailor... he’s the all too common grifter wanting free clothes from bespoke houses. We deal with tard bloggers that want to be like him on the daily on Savile Row.

[Anonymous No.15817592]

>>15817591
opinion discarded

[Anonymous No.15817600]

>>15815308
>What should I know before investing in one?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvKRKRMnLlw

[Anonymous No.15817605]

>>15817592
>blogger comes into workshop
>I have x number of followers, if you make some free stuff,‘I’ll write about you
This is exactly how it goes. Unfortunately, the majority of their followers are brokebois that can’t afford bespoke. Because Savile row is full of old men that don’t understand computers, they used to fall for it all the time. Hugo still isn’t a tailor. He’s a columnist.

[Anonymous No.15817606]

>>15817605
If we're getting rid of bloggers, can we start with boring baldie while you're on this crusade?

[Anonymous No.15817610]

>>15817606
Do you mean Simon Crompton? I just wish they wouldn’t ask for free shit.

[Anonymous No.15817613]

>>15817610
Yes. Are you actually on Savile row?

[Anonymous No.15817634]

>>15817606
Crompton is the worst.

[Anonymous No.15817647]

>>15817571
Do you have to go bespoke to get a coat of decent weight (more than 20oz) and of decent length these days? The only thing I can seem to find in the UK is something like the Magee tweed coat which is only in the most boring colours (not to mention, the burgandy detail on the back of the colour which offends me).

Please advise sempai.

[Anonymous No.15817663]

>>15817647
You might as well go bespoke if you're getting cloth that good.

[Anonymous No.15817670]

>>15817613
Yes. Simon is a nice guy. My master tailor made him a couple suits. I’ve met him a couple times.
>>15817647
No. There are plenty of coats that are made with great cloths. You need to be aware of your measures and get alterations, if necessary. I like vintage Burberry (Burberry’s), Ralph Lauren, etc. Still, I don’t pay much attention to the brand. Look for Harris Tweed specifically if you want something that weighs a ton. Brand is not that relevant, just alter it to fit you properly.

[Anonymous No.15817671]

>>15817670
>Yes. Simon is a nice guy.

>implying this isn't the problem.

[Anonymous No.15817682]

Also, don’t sleep on Asian factories. I know people shit on them, but in my observations of their garments - they’re often very good quality. Sounds like sacrilege coming from an English bespoke worker, and my colleagues would shit on me endlessly for it, but it’s true. MCC Apparel is a good Thai factory with westerners at the head. You may be able to do a kind of ‘distance bespoke’ with them so long as they’re happy to provide you with their system of taking measures and you could order your cloth and send it in for them to make up. I don’t know the full details on how to do that, but I’m sure it’s possible for a fraction of the price of bespoke you want something specific. I know places do it because I had a guy that would bring his Asian bespoke suits ordered through alibaba for handmade details adding on because ‘I want it to look like Tom Ford’ They were decent quality.
>>15817671
Well, I dunno. Dude is rich as fuck. I think he was an engineer or something. Still always wants free shit though and that’s probably how he got rich as fuck.

[Anonymous No.15817683]

>>15817682
I can second this. Their quality is exceptionally good for the price, especially with proper european fabrics.

[Anonymous No.15817684]

>>15817670
tailorbro, which are your favorite houses regarding style? i've always been fond of sexton. also, since i'm a little short on money for bespoke but would like a suit, do you have any MTM place to recommend in london? i've been looking at chris kerr. are you familiar with his work? his bespoke seems utterly cheap compared to houses on the row

[Anonymous No.15817686]

>>15817682
Would Cad & The Dandy's Chennai factory fall under one of the good asian factories? A bespoke suit made in the Indian factory only goes for 1200 + fabric choice, which seems like a real good deal.

[Anonymous No.15817702]

>>15817684
Sexton is cool. If you’re a /pol/tard, you’ll like him because he’s racist. My favourite houses are of the Tommy Nutter fame. Chittleborough & Morgan, Michael Browne, Edward Sexton. If you like ‘soft’ then Steven Hitchcock and Anderson & Sheppard are good. In terms of overall workmanship, Chittleborough, Sexton, Browne, and Gieves are your best bet IMO. I think gieves will be the most expensive of the bunch, but Browne and Chittleborough are superior. Sexton is alright I guess. He’s just not a nice dude.

I’ve heard of Chris Kerr, but don’t know anything about him. I imagine it’s made outside of the UK. Maybe look at Gieves made to measure? I think they make it in Mauritius.
>>15817686
No Cad is shit. Seriously bad. They had a good factory when they made stuff in their 2I factory in China, but the Chennai factory is a disaster last I knew. They’re stuck with it because they bought the machinery themselves like retards instead of doing private labelling.

They can’t retain their Indian factory workers as they’re mostly women and quit to raise families. You often find that it goes from: Shit -> Send English tailor to India to train them -> Decent -> Shit again. Most hilarious story I heard from there is that a group of ladies will sit in a circle, each doing hand sewing on a different part of the garment. This will not work because each person has a different touch.

Their model is praying on the ignorance of customers and aggressive SEO driven marketing combined with a bargain basement price. Don’t be fooled. It works because most tailoring houses don’t understand the internet and get utterly rekt on Google by Cad.

Go to SuitSupply instead. Cad staff is also generally incompetent and despite the fact that they call themselves tailors, they actually can’t sew at all.

I had 1 suit made from Cad a very long time ago and it was the biggest piece of shit ever made.

[Anonymous No.15817715]

>>15817702
i had no idea that edward sexton was a racist, any juicy stories?
i've just always been fond of the house style as well as cifonelli's, which I think look the nicest. apparently everything is handmade there too. some tailor I talked to said they only had two sewing machines in their atelier and they were rarely used
also what the fuck is going on with kilgour? they've ditched their RTW (scooped a blazer for £85, just needs to be taken in a little), but apparently they've moved out of savile row too?
thanks for sharing tailorbro

[Anonymous No.15817732]

>>15817715
Lol. Not really. He just doesn’t like minorities. Cifonelli is cool. Saw some pretty fucked up workmanship on some of their gear (twisted grain on pocket flaps and fake Milanese buttonholes). It’s very different style to English bespoke. Their jackets are quite short. Most tailoring houses only have 1 or 2 machines. It’s true that they’re rarely used. You only use them for the long seams: Sidebody to Front, Back, Back to Sodebody, Facing, Sleeve insertion, pockets, Shoulders. Most of your time is spent doing hand work. If you make trousers then it’s a different story. Almost entirely machined apart from the curtain and waistband lining.

Kilgour got bought by the Chinese. I believe the same company owns Gieves? It’s a shame as it used to be the British Tom Ford and they did great stuff. I think the Chinese use the name to market their gear in China and don’t really give a fuck about the actual history of the brand. Plus, Savile Row rents are absolutely insane. I mean, right around the corner from Regent and Bond Street, one of the busiest shopping spots on the planet. This is the way it’s going to go unfortunately. Savile Row used to be doctors because it was cheap, then tailors, and now it’s going to be taken over by Abercrombie and Hackett type brands because they can afford the rents.

[Anonymous No.15817761]

Magee does the basic black and white which is nice, also does an interesting camel with specs of other coloured yarn. I don't know what you expect to find for you to say something isn't boring.
Also you posted a "boring" colour so it doesn't make sense.

Why not try S.E.H Kelly?

>>15817647

[Anonymous No.15817818]

>>15815308
Look for pure wool or a blend of wool and cashmere. If you see polyester or nylon or spandex on the materials tag, that's a red flag.

Best I've found for warmth is pure wool outer with a viscose lining.

[Anonymous No.15817821]

>>15817465
I have one of these and it's great. It's pure 100% new wool, with raglan sleeves.

[Anonymous No.15817824]

>>15817572
Listen to this. I learned the hard way. You do want to go at least one or two sizes up from your suit jacket chest measurement, so the overcoat can fit over it.

[Anonymous No.15817896]

>>15817818
A red flag? That's not a red flag, you just don't buy it, no question 10/10 times.

[Anonymous No.15818131]

>>15817761
SEH Kelly tends to make all their clothes a couple inches too short which bothers me.
>>15817896
No need to be such a purist. If it feels good, looks good and keeps you warm what does it matter if it's not 100% wool?

[Anonymous No.15818135]

>>15818131
Pic related.

[Anonymous No.15818164]

coat inspo

[Anonymous No.15818165]

>>15818164

This looks about two sizes "too big". But it works for the type of coat.

[Anonymous No.15818169]

>>15818131
Both of these are me haha.

I'm short so It's been a struggle figuring out witch overcoats will look ok on me and not even sure if I should get one at all. They looked short to me in pictures but I thought it might be because the model is tall, and it'll be a gamble. You've confirmed it for me though! :) Now I really can't wait to get it.

You want wear nice materials, especially when you pay good money. Even if I buy a t-shirt I don't want any plastics fibers, it's a pretty reasonable preference. I wouldn't say you have to be a purist.

[Anonymous No.15818170]

I want all of these coats.

[Anonymous No.15818191]

>>15818170

[Anonymous No.15818192]

>>15815308
Remember to consider the length of your upper body and your legs.
The hem of the coat will determine how long your legs will appear. So if your legs are shorter than your upper body, it will look weird on your and make you come off as shorter.

[Anonymous No.15818197]

>>15818191

[Anonymous No.15818203]

>>15818164
the gloves are Gentlemans Gazette tier

[Anonymous No.15818206]

>>15818197
he's making the universal sign for "i will give you head"

[Anonymous No.15818210]

>>15818192
A nice long coat should drop to just below the knees in my opinion. What does your advice suggest you should get in terms of length?

[Anonymous No.15818215]

This would be nice. Looks cosy af.

[Anonymous No.15818229]

>>15818210
If your upper body is longer than your legs I feel the hem should reach the bottom of your hips. It will give the impression of long legs with an equal torso.
For average person where torso and legs are about the same length, it should reach the knees.

[Anonymous No.15818243]

>>15817670
>etc

What other brands would you recommend buying vintage? Would be good to know. Most of the advice I find online is US-orientated.

Also, thoughts on Anglo-Italian? I love the style the brand is going for.

[Anonymous No.15818246]

>>15818229
>just below the hips

So basically, wear a peacoat.

[Anonymous No.15818249]

>>15818246

[Anonymous No.15818253]

>>15818249

[Anonymous No.15818257]

[Anonymous No.15818259]

>>15818215
>my two dads
who is photoshopping this shit?!

[Anonymous No.15818281]

>>15818243
check crombie on ebay

[Anonymous No.15818345]

[Anonymous No.15818358]

[Anonymous No.15818417]

What's the proper length for a coat sleeve?

[Anonymous No.15818437]

>>15818243
Nothing specific in terms of brands. Just search for garments that have materials that match your criteria. That’s the easiest way if you’re using eBay. >>15818417
Horse riding length. Ends near to the middle of your hand. This prevents the elements from getting your garments, even when you raise your arms.

[Anonymous No.15818452]

>>15818192
Nobody knows where your legs start.

[Anonymous No.15818672]

>>15818197
Thought this was Jay for a second

[Anonymous No.15818681]

>>15815308
First of all, only men 6' and above can wear a long coat like that. Anyone shorter than that and the coat will make you look even shorter

[Anonymous No.15818796]

>>15818681
Bullshit.

[Anonymous No.15818800]

>>15818170
that's a nice coat

[Anonymous No.15819102]

>>15818681
I guarantee that barely any of the fits in this thread feature men that are taller than 6 feet.

[Anonymous No.15819104]

>>15815308
if you're wearing a t-shirt underneath it you'll look like a dumb shit

[Anonymous No.15819144]

>>15819104
Why? What about a sweater?

[Anonymous No.15819219]

>>15819102
1 and 2 look ridiculous
3 looks alright but only because his coat doesn't go past his knees

[Anonymous No.15819274]

>>15815308
Don't be afraid of length. A comfortable winter coat goes at least to the bottom of the kneecap, right where tall boots would end. It's creates flattering proportions, even if you're short. More important than length is tailoring. I find well shaped sleeves determine the apparent fit of a coat more than any particular length.

Only mid calf length starts to become challenging for certain body types. However, if you're short, I recommend going minimalist on the pockets, and skip the sleeve straps. Slanted hand pockets are always a safe bet. The taller you are, the more pockets you can fit. Double-breast looks good on everyone when buttons, but can be too much fabric when unbuttoned if you're short. DON'T get shoulder epaulettes.

[Anonymous No.15819425]

>>15819274
...at least to the TOP* of the knee, rather. But I still prefer bottom on knee.

[Anonymous No.15819681]

>>15819102
You guys are obsessed.

I think George looked good in a long coat. Somehow he pulled it off well.

[Anonymous No.15819838]

>>15819144
You need something to frame your head so it doesn't look small, so if you're wearing a sweater it should have a collared shirt underneath it or be a turtleneck or you could just wrap a scarf around your neck.

[Anonymous No.15819962]

>>15819838
Yep, t-shirts work with a scarf. Also, besides looks, collars and scarfs prevent your neck from rubbing the coat fabric and getting it dirty more quickly. Generally wool doesn't feel great on the back of your neck anyway.

[Anonymous No.15820209]

>>15817702
>Sexton is cool. If you’re a /pol/tard, you’ll like him because he’s racist
I looked him up and could find no evidence of this. Is this something he says in private conversations? Is he a racist of the Anglo type (disdainful of Italians, Irish, and of course, the non-whites) or is he more of a generalist non-white racist? Inquiring minds want to know!

[Anonymous No.15821999]

AMAZING AND BASED SEXCORE CHAD OVERCOAT

[Anonymous No.15822608]

>>15820209
Lol, it’s not gonna be public. He’s a cunt behind closed doors

[Anonymous No.15822641]

>>15815308
Don't get the wrong size. That's it.
Oh and double breast pocket is nicetoo

[Anonymous No.15823368]

ayee

[Anonymous No.15824111]

>>15817580
>A correctly fit overcoat is barely larger than the jacket underneath.

Imagine if you went to a tailor, and he said:
>I'm not very accurate, the numbers are going to be +/- the thickness of a suit jacket on you.
What kind of retard would still go for it?

[Anonymous No.15824362]

>>15817580
This
>>15818165
Is at least two sizes larger than his blazer size. It looks great. Surely, and especially with raglan sleeved jackets with an A-silhouette, the size can be totally down to personal preference.

[Anonymous No.15824996]

>>15818345
sleeves look a bit short

[Anonymous No.15825007]

if you want some proper heft, consider a leather-out shearling coat.

[Anonymous No.15825026]

In what world is an overcoat acceptable?? Cringe

[Anonymous No.15825067]

I tried on this Aquascutum coat in the store today and it fit very close like in this photo. The clerk said that fit was "just right".

But the sleeves stopped at my wrists and I could barely lift my arms for something like holding a subway strap. Any reason I shouldn't go up a size so it fits more like this:
>>15815420
?

https://aquascutum.jp/shop/item/2200452252?colorCode=38&ITEM_NAME=MENS

[Anonymous No.15825249]

>>15824111
A tailor would never say this.
Generally, in most drafting systems, size and garment type is already accounted for in the process. Eg, a 40R suit jacket draft is slightly smaller than a 40R overcoat draft regardless of the customer’s specific measures.

You then make minor adjustments in the fitting stage. I threw those numbers out there because that’s a good ballpark to understand some of the difference without having the person in front of you.

[Anonymous No.15826122]

>>15819102
what makes it onions
>/thread

[Anonymous No.15826286]

>>15825026
Where the hell do you live? I live in NYC and I'd say 40% of people I see outside are wearing wool coats.

[Anonymous No.15826299]

>>15825067
The reason you couldn't lift your arms is because the armholes are too large, a problem that plagues off-the-rack menswear. Going up a size will help but it won't fully alleviate the problem.

[Anonymous No.15826303]

>>15815308
Buy vintage, as modern overcoats are absolutely garbage material unless you pay £1500+.