/sprezzatura/ - Mediterranean and Menswear General

[Anonymous No.15530382]

This thread is for the well dressed man and those seeking to improve their dress by exploring colors, patterns, textures and other styles while appearing more mature, elegant and refined.
>What is “sprezzatura”?
Required viewing: https://youtu.be/_QG4lTMjWtY [Embed]
Required reading: https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2017/02/24/how-obsession-with-sprezzatura-can-kill-the-sprezzatura/
>Do I have to be European to wear this style?
Absolutely not. Anyone can wear this as long as they are confident and don’t care what people think. You should be dressing for yourself, not for others. Is this style more common in Italy and other Mediterranean countries? Absolutely. But you could wear this wherever you are.
>How is this different than Trad/Ivy/Prep?
Whereas the /TIP/ threads favor classic styles and tailoring, wider fits and more drape, Mediterranean and modern menswear favors slimmer cuts, tailored closer to the body to accentuate and flatter your body. Slim fit is allowed and in many cases encouraged.
>Where should I start?
Start with sport coats and mix and match with trousers. Experiment with colors and patterns. Don’t be afraid of color. This isn’t business style, where bland conformity is the norm. We want to be colorful, and experiment with fabrics. Wear linen, wool, cotton, anything you want.
>Where can I find good inspo to draw from?
https://www.instagram.com/giorgiogiangiulio/
https://www.instagram.com/davidgandy_official/
https://www.instagram.com/carlos_domord/
https://www.instagram.com/parisian_gentleman/
https://www.instagram.com/fadiblanc59/
https://www.instagram.com/fabioattanasio/
https://www.instagram.com/justusf_hansen/
https://www.instagram.com/jcl.84/
https://www.instagram.com/franz_1955/
https://www.instagram.com/danilocarnevale/
https://www.instagram.com/thewomaninatie/
https://www.instagram.com/sonyaglyn/?hl=en

Previous: >>15509540

[Anonymous No.15530389]

Saw OP vídeo, interesting, really love it, is a kind of what I've been looking for.

[Anonymous No.15530699]

New cops.

[Anonymous No.15530706]

New cops

[Anonymous No.15530708]

All in on stripes.

[Anonymous No.15530715]

>>15530706
>>15530708
Nice choices

[Anonymous No.15530738]

>>15530715
Best part: 85 eur for all six shirts.

[Anonymous No.15530758]

Power is out, so a cellphone fit pic for today.

Love this country.

[Anonymous No.15530815]

>>15530758
Solid fit, the rest is just nitpicking: What about the label under the tie/scarf?
Have you tried shoes that match the suit color and socks that match the tie color with that?

[Anonymous No.15530832]

>>15530708
nice, what pants would you use with those shirts?

[Anonymous No.15530870]

>>15530182
I bought a coat from MD and had to cut open all of the cuff buttons.

[Anonymous No.15531105]

>>15530382
Enjoy it while it lasts. Preserve essential pieces. Never hurt to mix in modern elements. The suit isn't relevant anymore. But the collar shirt is.

[Anonymous No.15531193]

TRIGGER WARNING: button down collar
I've just took this sportcoat out of the storage and noticed this collapsing spot under the right lapel. Can it be pressed out or is the canvas somehow fucked?

[Anonymous No.15531204]

>>15531193
It's just a crease? I've just used a hand steamer and had no issues getting things like that out.

[Anonymous No.15531239]

>>15531193
The pockets on that jacket are huge. Makes you look pear shaped

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15531370]

>>15530382
Holy wow, that video and the guys explanation was fucking fantastic. That top comment:

>Sprezzatura is elegance by nature, not effort.

[Anonymous No.15531811]

New cop on these pocket squares. Would love some pairing ideas.
Some are borderline le sape/regalcore, but I think we can make them work.

>>15530832
Gurkhas and suits.

>>15530815
Was a hasty photo. Label was in error; I corrected it subsequently.

Shoes were chosen for comfy reasons, matching the blue overcheck was a secondary concern. Could go for something more brown tonal once I can find decent brown loafers, but that's proving to be pretty challenging.

>>15531193
The shirt and jacket are a great color combination.

You can press the canvas. Put a heavy weight on it for 2-3 days. DO NOT PRESS THE LAPEL FLAT.

>>15531239
Good point. He might actually be able to get those pockets adjusted. They're patch, so could be removed, recut and reattached by an alterations tailor.

>>15531370
Sartorial talks is unrivaled. Their content vs the pretty cringy gentleman's gazette pretty much perfectly reflects the differences between /sprezz/ and /tip/.

[Anonymous No.15531852]

>>15531811
Where to cop pocket squares that don‘t break the bank?
How are literal pieces of fabric (sometimes even cotton or linen) as expensive as ties or shirts

[Anonymous No.15531911]

>>15531852
They're expensive because:
>they're a completely useless luxury item.
>they are made of relatively expensive material
>production can be a little labor intensive due to hand-rolled edges.

Pretty much always go for sales and just collect gradually over time. Best place is the larger outlets with a smaller premium menswear section. They usually overstock on pocket squares and other accessories. TM Lewin is decent value and can end up going for nothing. Also try to make friends with the sales reps, often they can go dig around the back for LONG FORGOTTEN STOCK (pocket squares are easy to forget about). These can drop to insane prices like $2 for a several-year-old item. Another slightly antisocial trick for accessories is fishing for items out of display models. Go pull out pocket squares from any mannequins and get them price checked. With a bit of luck they've been sitting there for a while on display, and because nobody has bought them, automated systems at the big chains mark them down.

I would strongly advise not buying pocket squares from expensive premium brands, as nobody is going to notice.

In general, make sure they have hand rolled edges and avoid polyester at all costs.

[Anonymous No.15531915]

>>15530382
>>15522423

[Anonymous No.15531964]

>>15531911
You can repeat this trick all over the city at different branches. I've made some incredible purchases over the years.

I wore this today because it's Spring Day. I love this thing.

[Anonymous No.15531967]

>>15528971
Trousers project, day 2

Ironing the other two fabrics took longer than expected, the actual drawing and cutting was fast, though. Tried out the finishing of the seams on some scraps and basted lining to the front part. Although I checked the fabric first, I accidently had the wrong side of the lining facing to the inside, so I had to do it again on one side. Further details in the followup posts.

In pic related you can see the a line marked with tailor tacks when the two parts get separated. You cut through these "ladders" and get a nice line/mark.

Time spent:
1.5h - ironing and cutting the pocket lining and front lining
1h - stitching the markings and crease line through the front part
1h - basting the lining to the front parts

[Anonymous No.15532015]

>>15531967
Front part with lining attached. One the left you can see the outer part of the leg with those threads sticking out, the question and explanation appeared in the last thread: >>15509906, >>15509977
Also here you can see that I decided to cut the lining a bit larger than the main fabric. This is for two reasons: First, the fabric is lightweight and very smooth, so it shifts a lot. Cutting it to the same size would make the edges look sloppy.
Second, I want to avoid the lining to pull on the outer fabric. It has to sit loosely there, and I need a bit of space left on the fabric so that it can fall naturally.
It is fastened to temporarily with this contrasting thread that I also used for the markings. This is an easy to tear cotton thread, it should just lightly hold the two layers together.
Applying this takes a bit longer than pinning the fabric with needles, but it has huge advantages: You don't have to remove it while sewing on the machine, and you can't stick yourself and bleed on the fabric while handling it.
Compare the times: Sticking one pin in, grabbing for the next is about as fast as sticking the needle in and pulling it through. Both thread and pins need to be removed afterwards, which is also comparable in time.
Another disadvantage of pins is that they don't bend.

On the right side you can see the lining. It is navy in color, so this should give you a good idea of how the actual fabric looks like.

[Anonymous No.15532037]

>>15531811
Those squares look really nice!

>gentleman's gazette
I like those guys, they are goofy and self-ironic most of the time. The information is well-rounded and not presented as "you must do it this way and no other".
The only thing that puts me off is the blatant marketing for their own shop, and it also seems to me as if Sven wanted to show off how many luxury items he owns.

[Anonymous No.15532054]

How many pocket squares do you own, /sprezz/?

[Anonymous No.15532074]

>>15532054
5 or so

[Anonymous No.15532132]

>>15532054
About 30-40

[Anonymous No.15532222]

>>15531967
>>15532015
Great posts.

What fabric is that?

[Anonymous No.15532557]

>>15532015
These are interesting posts, thanks for them and please keep them coming

[Anonymous No.15532906]

>>15532222
The fabric is a light cotton twill with 3% spandex fibre. They did not have it without the spandex, but the color and price were too compelling.

>>15532557
Sure, I'll try to give an update every day

[Anonymous No.15533168]

>>15532222
Close-up of the fabric with 5mm square paper in the background. The stitching will be used to finish the visible edges as to prevent fraying. It is standard zigzag stitch on the sewing machine, works fine if you don't have a serger.

[Anonymous No.15533172]

>>15533168
Thank you for the details. I'm really not sure about spandex in that, but for pants it's probably not a bad idea.

Two questions for you: How do high-end dress shirts like Marol construct their collar and cuffs, and how do you hand-roll edges on a pocket square?

You should make something like this too
https://handsewncanvas.wordpress.com/2020/06/02/beauty-is-on-the-inside-hand-sewn-canvas-or-nothing/

[Anonymous No.15533179]

Do tapered 100% cotton jeans exist?

[Anonymous No.15533180]

>>15533179
Why

[Anonymous No.15533185]

>>15531811
What do you use the pocket squares even for? Are they just for looks?

[Anonymous No.15533189]

>>15533180
Because I'm interested in them, obviously.

[Anonymous No.15533193]

>>15533179
Of course, tapered cuts are quite common. You shouldn't buy jeans unless they are 100% cotton.

[Anonymous No.15533194]

>>15533185
Yes, they add splashes of color to liven up the monotony of a suit or jacket. A very simple and small detail but can change the entire look of an outfit.

[Anonymous No.15533195]

>>15533185
They're an accessory used to balance the colours and textures of a fit. Think of them like a tie. You don't always need them.

Most people make the mistake of going way too loud with the squares using YUGE folds and bright colors - same mistakes they make with ties really. They're there to accentuate rather than draw a huge amount of attention.

Image for ants, but it shows how the pocket square adds a touch of asymmetry and visual interest without being disruptive.

[Anonymous No.15533198]

Another decent example here in a more /sprezz/ style.

[Anonymous No.15533199]

>>15533193
What's a good cheap brand that sells them, then?

[Anonymous No.15533201]

>>15533199
>good
>cheap
choose one

[Anonymous No.15533203]

>>15533198
I love the clothes but I don't like how they fit.

[Anonymous No.15533204]

>>15533201
Best value for the buck, if you prefer.

[Anonymous No.15533210]

>>15533204
Wrangler. Levi's and even Lee sell some as well. Have to do a little searching to find 100% denim but I just saw three different ones in a couple minutes of searching. They cost a little more than non-100% but only a couple bucks.
If you want selvedge Burgus Plus is on the lower end pricewise but still decent quality.

[Anonymous No.15533295]

>>15533210
Thanks. It was hard to find tapered levis that were 100% with all the colors they have, that's why I was asking.

[Anonymous No.15533310]

>>15533295
The current trend is for cheaper jeans to have spandex or lycra or whatever in them. Has to do with the skinny look I think.
If you go selvedge they are almost guaranteed to be 100% cotton, blends are outliers. If not you have to do some searching but they are definitely there.

[Anonymous No.15533499]

>>15533172
>How do high-end dress shirts like Marol construct their collar and cuffs?
To be honest I don't even know that brand. What exactly do you want to know: The pattern, the materials, or how they sew them?
At least for low-end shirts I know that they fuse a stiff cotton fabric into the collar.

>How do you hand-roll edges on a pocket square?
Not an expert on rolling the edges, but it seems to be as easy as pic related. Source:
https://www.redhandledscissors.com/2010/08/hand-sticked-pocket-square-tutorial/

>You should make something like this too
Such a pocket square or a jacket?

[Anonymous No.15533601]

Genuin question:
Can sprezzatura be without jacket an shirt, only trousers and a plain no-polo t-shirts?
>>15533310

[Anonymous No.15533704]

>>15533601
Trousers and T-shirt seems rather plain. Possibly if you accessorize correctly but it might be difficult. Belt, shoes, socks and watch would have to carry all the weight, maybe sunglasses, cap and bracelets if you're into that sort of thing.
Great fitting high(er) rise trousers with a T tucked into them could work, especially if it is a Breton T or long sleeve with sleeves rolled up.
Sprezz is more about a casual, relaxed, carefree attitude while still dressing well than a rigidly defined style. Fit is king, as usual. If you wear it well and with confidence a T and trousers will work great.

[Anonymous No.15533754]

>>15533601
Depends. Try structured trousers with side adjusters or a tunnel, loafers or high end espadrilles. The shirt should possibly have a patterned pocket but plain could also work. If you throw on a cardigan in lieu of a suit jacket you‘re safe.

This borders SEXcore though, maybe go for a neru collared linen shirt or a popover instead.

[Anonymous No.15533785]

>>15533601
Get a knitted t-shirt to ~~elevate~~ the look a bit

[Anonymous No.15533821]

>>15533601
>Can sprezzatura be
It's a sense of fashion and the way of wearing it, so it can be with anything.

[Anonymous No.15534201]

>>15528971
>>15531967
>>15532015
Trousers project, day 3
Protected the edges of the fabric against fraying, then continued with the front pockets. The pocket lining looks like a large sack, pocket facing is applied to both sides.

Time spent:
1h - Finishing the edges on the front parts
2h - Ironing, applying the pocket facings

[Anonymous No.15534207]

>>15534201
Pic related shows seam tape attached to the wrong side of the facing. This is a thin but tight cotton tape, it protects the fabric from wearing out. In case of very thin or stretchy fabrics it makes sense to add this, for stronger fabrics I usually skip it.

By the way, this thread is remarkably silent and has nearly become my personal trousers blog... where are the fits and discussions?

[Anonymous No.15534420]

W2c these pantaloons /fa/?

[Anonymous No.15534422]

I have a very nice casual cotton jacket which I bought on clearance. It‘s sadly too short (a bit longer than pic related).
Do you think I could balance the fit with ultra high waisted pants to recreate an equilibrium? Should I wear it with the sleeves rolled up? Or maybe with shorts?

[Anonymous No.15534423]

>>15534420
the rake

[Anonymous No.15534428]

>>15534420
Judging by the style of pants and the picture that‘s Pini Parma.

Does anybody else own clothing by The GIGI? I bought a pair of heavy woolen trousers and the quality is amazing.

[Anonymous No.15534434]

>>15534428
Thank you so much, anon!

[Anonymous No.15534770]

>>15533704
>>15533754
>>15533785
>>15533821
Thanks anons

[Anonymous No.15534800]

How can I achieve this level of carefree, effortless style?

[Anonymous No.15534852]

>>15534800
>swap the sunglasses for tortoiseshell
>get a heavy linen overshirt or possibly unlined thin suede instead of the denim jacket

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15534917]

Do you guys base your fit somewhat on your environment? I love med fits, incorporating linen but as it's mostly cold here, not only do I feel it looks a little out of place, it's also not practical.

So instead of some some super 140s jacket and a silk tie, I should focus more on a heavier tweed and a wool tie? Which of course too will give off a more casual aesthetic which I like.

[Anonymous No.15535026]

>>15534917
I think it always makes sense and is in your beat interests to “fit in” by dressing for the environment and not be too weird about it to the point where people may interact with you in a way that may not be the most positive. Nothing about the items though sorry.

[Anonymous No.15535051]

>>15534207
>where are the fits and discussions
People generally dress poorly nowadays so this is a slow general.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15535073]

>>15535026
Either way, wearing these things you'll never really fit into your environment,that's what being a rebel is all about, I guess. This is rebel clothing.

>>15535051
True but also this is a teenage focused board and this is all "le stuff my dad wears" when their dad really wears jeans and a baggy dress shirt sloppily tucked in.

[Anonymous No.15535075]

[Anonymous No.15535079]

>>15535075
i realised after i posted that this was the wrong thread

[Anonymous No.15535082]

>>15535079
You posted that before I think. Buttons match too much on vest and jacket, consider changing them.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15535085]

>>15535075
>>15535079
Lol you have posted this before though!

The difference between posting it in tip (I assume) and here is that for sprezzatura you can leave it unbuttoned.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15535088]

>>15535082
I am sure I commented this too. It gives a visual appearance that the waistcoat buttons go onto the jacket and both items are somehow connected. The jacket button could be the waistcoat bottom button

[Anonymous No.15535526]

>>15534917
You're fortunate to have a colder climate as it means OVERCOATS and TOP DRAPE due to heavier fabrics. Which for us in med climates can only wear like 1-2 months of the year, scarves too. You can also layer like all fuck, so learn the magic of the waistcoat for a splash of color.

Colder climates are menswear heaven, and you can still sprezz it up.

>>15535075
>>15535085
You actually generally WANT to leave a suit jacket unbuttoned over a vest unless it's really cold.

It's not a bad fit, do the stuff the others have said. Otherwise also the usual stuff:
>use tighter tie knot
>that shirt collar is too loose
>chest gapping
>pants look like they're too worn low or otherwise misbehaving.

[Anonymous No.15535536]

>>15534422
Yes you can. Neapolitan MILDLY cropped jackets can work as long as you're willing to deal with memelegs and keep the buttoning point very close to the waist on the pants.

[Anonymous No.15536465]

>>15534201
Trousers project, day 4
Finally something more interesting to show: The front pockets are done, so I can move on to the back. The pattern adds two darts on each side, but this created a tent that fits oddly, so I'll have to undo these and remove fabric from all sides equally. Next steps are the welt pockets in the back. That is also one of the funny parts: The smaller details of the pants are responsible for the most amount of work, then it's just sewing the legs together and you're nearly done, because only the waistband is left.


Time spent:
2h - Finishing the front pockets
1h - Finishing the edged on the back part, sewing darts on one side

[Anonymous No.15536500]

>>15536465
On a side note you guys can probably help me out with the buttons. Originally I started out with these blue plastic buttons. I'll post the options that I had in mind, will take me some time to dig up the pictures, though.

[Anonymous No.15536518]

>>15536500
Thank you for documenting this, looking forward to seeing the final result.
Did you have any prior experience in sewing? If yes, how did you learn?
Where did you buy the fabric and how much did it cost?
I've been thinking about doing this myself, as finding the clothes I want is either very hard and/or very expensive, problem is I have never even sewn a button in my life.

[Anonymous No.15536611]

>>15536518
>Did you have any prior experience in sewing? If yes, how did you learn?
Yes, I started sewing something here and there about 10 years ago, mostly bags, but nothing too serious, but the experience has helped me a lot. The actual sewing spree did not start until last year, but since then I made 3 shirts, one pair of shorts, two jackets and a two-piece suit. also some accessories such as ties and pocket squares. Most of it is wearable, but for example this first pair of pants for my suit is from old jeans that fit me perfectly, but they did not turn out as I wanted to. The best advice: Try everything on some scraps of your fabric before you do it to the parts that you want to work on.
>Where did you buy the fabric and how much did it cost?
The project is actually a two-piece suit, so I can't really separate the costs here. Maybe just halve it if you want the cost for just the pants:
main fabric: 16 EUR (10 for 2m, 6 for 1.2m), price-reduced leftovers from a general store
pocket lining: 24 EUR (2m), local fabrics shop
sleeve lining, front lining for trousers: 12 EUR (2m), local fabrics shop
edge tape: 6 EUR, local art store
buttons: 10 EUR, local fabrics shop
zipper: 4 EUR, local fabrics shop
canvas (for suit jacket): 18 EUR (1m), bought online
thread: 8 EUR (I probably overdid it, but I can use this for other things, so it does not really matter: bought 400m of it, which is quite a lot)
crotchet thread, 2 EUR (I use this for button holes, it is 100% cotton instead of 100% polyester as the button hole threads that you can find in the shops. It is a lot more expensive, but they have more color options than the button hole threads)
= total of 100 EUR for the complete suit, 36 EUR for the trousers only.
The prices can still explode if you go for higher quality fabrics.

[Anonymous No.15536648]

>>15536518
>Problem is I have never even sewn a button in my life.
The savings factor is not that huge, tough decision. Roughly estimated, doing everything myself costs me about the same as buying the product from H&M/Zara but the fabric quality is better than theirs. Compared to high-end brands it costs me about a fifth to a quarter of their price if I stay in the medium price range for fabrics and maybe up to a third of their price if I go for the highest quality materials.
Add to this that the first time you sew a piece it is usually a bit wonky here and there, the second time it has the quality of something you could get at a factory outlet (small imperfections) and the third time it is actually good quality, so you may not actually save money unless you want to create lots of clothes.

[Anonymous No.15536676]

>>15536500
So, here are the options. Not sure what fits better for this blueish suit. The black buttons will be significantly darker, brown combines nicely with blue, but may also create too much contrast.

[Anonymous No.15536818]

Any tips for creasing pants?

[Anonymous No.15536838]

>>15536500
>>15536676
This is an amazing project.

You can't go wrong with brown. They're all bit reflective and have a plastic look. Middle ones are probably the most convincing natural appearance, so go with those.

>>15536465
If I was making this stuff I'd skip the back pocket. Never use it anyway.

[Anonymous No.15536888]

Can you guys redpill me on linen shirts?

Are they really a staple? I'm in a climate where they make sense, ftr (Australia).

Does one really need them? In theory it seems like one should have a few, though with most summer fits I've seen that incorporate linen, it's always in the jacket or the pants, and never the shirt- which is always broadcloth. That classic pitti uomo look follows that layering pattern.

I've found it strangely difficult to find a good source of linen shirts with enough variety of patterns (even during north hemisphere summer). I'm starting to think I've been attacking this the wrong way, and that I should focus on linen as an outer layer, and that the summer shirt fabric of choice should always be broadcloth.

yet I can't shake this image of a few good linen shirts in colourful awning stripes. what should I do? Is the linen shirt a beautiful lie?

[Anonymous No.15537327]

>>15536888
checked
If you live in a hot and especially humid climate then they are absolutely a staple. I moved to Japan from California and the humidity in the summer here is brutal. Linen wears light, is extremely cool, breathes easily and dries quickly. It is far superior to any type of cotton in the summer, even a hopsack weave.
If it is hot enough to wear linen then you most likely won't be wearing a jacket at all. Pic related is a good example of a stylish summer linen fit.
As for source not sure what is available in Oz. I get mine from Maker's Kamakura. Not a huge variety of patterns but a few in many different colors and the quality is great for the price.

[Anonymous No.15537372]

>get my first salaried paycheck tomorrow
Can't wait to buy a cardigan and some shorts

[Anonymous No.15537478]

>>15536838
All of these are horn buttons, but I'll have to order them first

[Anonymous No.15537998]

>>15536465
Trousers project, day 5
Only a tiny update today, because I have some other things going on. No, that's not a wonderbra, but the backside of the trousers. While sewing the darts I got the impression that they form the fabric too much, so I attached all parts with a light stitch real quick and tried it on. The suspicion was confirmed. Anyway, it's not the end of the world, it just means that I have distribute the fabric differently and take some away in the center.

Time spent:
1h - Sewing darts, temporarily attaching the parts, fitting.

[Anonymous No.15538365]

I love the texture on this cotton/linen fabric from Albiate...

[Anonymous No.15538368]

>>15538365
and the collar curvature...

[Anonymous No.15538372]

>>15538368
but I'm definitely having darts put in after a few more washes as this is too much drape even for me.

[Anonymous No.15538379]

He has good material on his insta/site. In his shop he specializes in Napolitan /italian menswear his shop is in Hannover Germany. He also sells online MichaelJondral.

[Anonymous No.15538382]

>>15538379

[Anonymous No.15538620]

>>15538372
Looking good!

[Anonymous No.15538910]

>>15537327
I'm from southern Spain, which climate wise is similar to Australia and everybody wears linen shirts on summer. Trust me, they are a must for hot climates. Also check some linen jackets and blazers.

[Anonymous No.15539042]

>>15538368
Might be the camera angle but your arms seem pretty long. Trousers might be a bit too high, you look like an ape. Balance the proportions.

[Anonymous No.15539598]

>>15533198
You couldn’t even button this jacket it’s so tight. Face palm

[Anonymous No.15539812]

>>15538910
Nice to see a watch pocket on those pants. Where is that from?

[Anonymous No.15539886]

>>15538365
nice material
>>15538368
narrow chest + wide hips = jonathan higgins/john boyega
>>15538372
boxy sleeves

[Anonymous No.15539956]

>>15538368
>>15538372
That shirt is absolutely too wide on the shoulders.

You need to get a size smaller down.

[Anonymous No.15539964]

Anyone have any experience with getting fit and sizing up? I'm a 38 almost exactly, if I put on 25lbs of muscle will I move up to a 40? 48 to 50 for you euros

[Anonymous No.15539969]

Wintery muted brown flannel today.

[Anonymous No.15539991]

>>15539969
Nice, the waistcoat provides the contrast without the need for a shirt in that colour

[Anonymous No.15539992]

>>15539964
Depends how tight your clothes are already.

[Anonymous No.15540018]

>>15539992
They're not that tight. I don't like the slim fit look. I just want to know if I should stop buying jackets until I reach my fitness goals. 155 skeleton to 175 lbs

[Anonymous No.15540031]

>>15540018
For jackets, yes. The RTW ones usually are slimmer in the arms, so if you add mass to your shoulders and arms they may become be really tight.

[Anonymous No.15540035]

>>15540018
How often do you buy jackets and how slowly are you deciding to lift?

[Anonymous No.15540037]

>>15539964
Yes. I put 3 inches onto my chest. Had to get rid of my entire wardrobe. Sucks!

[Anonymous No.15540041]

>>15540037
this is why I don't lift, except for posture correction exercises.

[Anonymous No.15540046]

>>15540041
It was RTW shit. Bespoke stuff can be let out.

[Anonymous No.15540051]

OP of the original /sprezz/ threads and the one whose idea it was here
Just wanted to say you're all based as fuck. Keep dressing nice and thank you to the anons that make new threads when one hits bump limit. You're all cool dudes

[Anonymous No.15540058]

>>15540046
lol, not that much. I've definitely spent more time at the tailor than your /fit/ard ass.

[Anonymous No.15540167]

>>15540051
Thanks, OP!

[Anonymous No.15540186]

How is this style any different from any other business/frat/dipshit fashion sense

[Anonymous No.15540353]

>>15540058
Depends on seam allowances.

[Anonymous No.15540453]

>>15540035
Not very often. I have 2 full canvas jackets and one suit. I want to sell all my half canvas/fused jackets. I'm pretty much just starting out my collection

[Anonymous No.15540459]

>>15540037
Was it just tightness around the chests? Cuz that could be let out. I'm worried about the shoulders not fitting but I don't see how my bone structure at my shoulder would expand

[Anonymous No.15540542]

>>15540459
Your bone structure is obviously not going to expand, but I am assuming that you'd also train your shoulders and as the muscles grow on them the armhole and the sleeve may become too tight.

[Anonymous No.15540835]

Where do you guys buy your high waisted pants? I´ve been looking to get some as I´ve always had a hard time finding pants that fit me. Should I just go get some bespoke or are there any good online?

[Anonymous No.15541482]

>>15540835
Obviously getting them made to measure is best, but if it's off the rack I like Pini Parma. They have a lot of options on their website for fabrics with linen, cotton and wool choices. Pretty cheap too

[Anonymous No.15541551]

>>15540835
bespoke.

[Anonymous No.15541555]

Trousers are stressing me out. I keep buying tops and avoiding getting trousers that actually fit.

[Anonymous No.15541694]

>>15539969
Very nice.

I always wonder, where do you people go when you dress up like that ? Some event ? Also do you guys hang with people dressing like that too ?
For me, I feel like it would be too dressed up to hang out with my friend or go for a drink, I feel like I would be the odd man out.

[Anonymous No.15541820]

>>15541694
i like to look good for when i shitpost on 4chan alone in my home

[Anonymous No.15541847]

>>15541482
They’re pants look well made but when looking at the measurements it’s hard to call them high waisted, under 11 inch rise. Doesn’t help that most of their models are manlets

[Anonymous No.15541848]

>>15540835
Therake.com

[Anonymous No.15542088]

>>15541555
you buy the right waist/butt, then get the rest tailored/tailor yourself. if it's good clothes, might as well do it right.

[Anonymous No.15542156]

>>15539969
Very nice outfit that sadly is out of place almost anywhere

[Anonymous No.15542242]

yo i’ve lurked this board for years and never jumped into one of these threads but this style and you people are all way better than TIP general. thank you all for looking good and having fun without being total assholes.

[Anonymous No.15542292]

>>15541694
Work mostly. I work in corporate law though.

[Anonymous No.15542529]

>>15541694
When I go meet some friends I usually tone it down, i.e. I'll not go in a full suit. Otherwise, when I go out with my gf or grab a coffee somewhere I wear what I want.

[Anonymous No.15542534]

>>15541694
>Also do you guys hang with people dressing like that too ?
It would be based, but avoiding figurative faggots is hard nowadays.

[Anonymous No.15542661]

>>15541694
I live in Africa. A jacket, tie, or high-waisted pants is going to stand out no matter what. Just be confident enough and you can pull off most good fits. In this case it was some general runaround plus a quick afternoon date.

Every man wants to convey power and confidence in their dress, but most have no idea how to do it. I've dressed this way for long enough that it's more natural than any other style now. Reactions can be polarized, but a gregarious and magnanimous personality goes a long way in counteracting that. You'll find people very soon start to imitate or show a genuine interest.

Your clothes should reflect the kind of person you are, but they can also help you become the person you want to be.

[Anonymous No.15542701]

>>15538910
El lino para climas secos.

[Anonymous No.15542714]

>>15542661
Super quick fit pic for today.

[Anonymous No.15542727]

>>15542714
lift routine?

[Anonymous No.15542761]

>>15542714
The pink is subtle enough to not stand out, but it seemed to pair a lot better with the grey clothes last time!

[Anonymous No.15542769]

Franco core

[Anonymous No.15542796]

>>15542769
>that chin

[Anonymous No.15542800]

>>15542796
Typical Mediterranean features

[Anonymous No.15542958]

>>15542727
Sports with heavy equipment + extensive lovemaking.

>>15542761
Fair points. Totally different camera might be a factor. This is shot on a shitty cellphone so not much opportunity to correct that. Pink was chosen because I've got way too many shirts in that color and they need to get rotated in, but tried to integrate it a bit more via the very red knit tie.

[Anonymous No.15543117]

I feel like wearing shirts almost daily alienates me far too much in my current environment and I want to be different just not much different I suppose. I live in England. Could I get by with knit polos daily like post instead of button up shirts?
>>15528758

[Anonymous No.15543121]

>>15542661
w2c coffee socks?

[Anonymous No.15543144]

>>15543121
https://www.trenery.com.au/coffee-socks-60257066-189

[Anonymous No.15543219]

>>15543144
Thank you!

[Anonymous No.15543233]

>>15542958

Yes, I can imagine that the camera distorts the colors for this combination. It is also not obvious that you are wearing a knit tie here.

[Anonymous No.15543342]

I recently saw a sprezzy older guy wear his belt buckle on the side instead of the front. I tried it, it‘s hugely impractical, but has a certain charm to it. The belt has to be structured though.
Is this some gay code signal again? Any thoughts?

[Anonymous No.15543722]

>>15542661
Damn, w2c shoes? I've been looking for some tan wingtips.

I'm torn between longwings or wingtips. I love the classic look of wingtips but longwings seem so substantial and heavy. What do you guys think? I will probably just get both desu

[Anonymous No.15543808]

>>15540186
It's not that different from generic contemporary menswear. However, I don't see one of these threads around here, do you?

[Anonymous No.15543815]

>>15543117
Of course. I live in England, where are you? London, for all its negatives is awesome because you can wear anything you want without drawing looks.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15543819]

They say never purchase an orphaned suit jacket but doesn't sprezz give you the option to use one? Obviously some polyester pinstripe jacket no, but a wool grey one maybe paired with some navy pants?

I was watching gents gazette and he says never get orphaned suit jackets but his fit at the end of the video was a double breasted suit jacket without matching pants.

What's up with that?

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15543823]

>>15543815
Bit misleading statement. Yeah, in the city center you can but if you're a white dude dressed like this in tower hamlets then a big no.

[Anonymous No.15543907]

>>15543823
Not only are there lots of hipsters are in tower hamlets but loads of city workers go through there (who by and large wear suits, the Wall Street gilet cancer hasn't arrived yet). What are you talking about. Like yeah, don't go to Croydon looking like Ed Helms' character in the office but if you are wearing an ocbd trousers and a blazer, no one will give a shit in most of London.

[Anonymous No.15543910]

>>15543819
It's because worsted wool is usually associated with suits. As long as you're wearing non-worsted jackets you're good I M O.

[Anonymous No.15543911]

Is steaming shirts a meme ? I want to start wearing shirts more often, but I do not want to spend a lot of time ironing shirts, steamers takes less time but gives worst results from what I red .

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15543927]

>>15543907
You still really mean the main areas people pass by and not the housing part. If you're going to be with gangs or stabbed to death, it's going to happen there. London has had a massive change in the past 20 years. Same as Paris, Berlin etc.

>>15543910
Hmm, yeah but most suit jackets will be worsted wool lol

>>15543911
I've had good results with a hand steamer.

[Anonymous No.15543935]

>>15543927
Curious to know. Have you actually lived in any of those cities are you just parroting what you've read on 4chan? No offense, it's just that a lot of people here genuinely think that /pol/ is right and these cities are post-apocalyptic hellscapes.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15543949]

>>15543935
I have been to London, yes. Regardless of that, the facts and statistics do not lie, do they? It's 44% white British now? It is not an English city. It has shocking statistics on knife crime too. There are whole areas with no white British so you definitely would stick out.

Yes, it's not some horror city sure, but to paint it a some great issue free capital is misleading too.

[Anonymous No.15543971]

>>15543949
You're absolutely right that statistics don't lie but crude interpretation of statistics is a classic way to mislead. I lived in London from 2011-2015 and Paris from 2015 until 2020 (back in London now). I can't speak for Berlin but in Paris and London the vast majority of victims of violence and crime are poor people (often BAME) living in shitty places (worse than tower hamlets, think south of the river in London or the Banlieu in Paris). As well as this, your average middle class goober. The kind that seeks fashion advice on 4chan or reddit is rarely, very rarely going to have to worry about these things.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15543996]

>>15543971
Yeah that's what I mean though, you have vast areas of the capital of England filled with people of a different culture and a white going into those areas is highly likely to be met with crime. Sure most of the victims are those people themselves and that's because they live among their own group but it's not really positive when said group can't get along and resort to murder and crime. There are many housing estates in the middle/northern England with equally poor people and yet nowhere near the level of stabbing/murder/guns that occur in London.

[Anonymous No.15544084]

To the anon who redpilled me about rise in pants last thread: thanks. I got some jeans in a higher rise and it really balanced out my legs.

[Anonymous No.15544118]

>>15544084
Cool, can you update us with the new look?

[Anonymous No.15544122]

this is still gq tier menswear you look flaming

[Anonymous No.15544123]

>>15544118
Next time I wear them I will post. Right now I'm in my pajamas reading frankenstein and shitposting in between chapters.

[Anonymous No.15544148]

>>15543815
Thanks, long-sleeve polos it is then. I am in a poorer area of Birmingham, surrounded by arabs, low tier blacks and chavs so I really have to fit. It's not as easy as London I think.

[Anonymous No.15544151]

>>15544148
It's really hard to emphasise how incredibly dressed up even a simple OCBD shirt looks in some areas.

[Anonymous No.15544155]

Out of belt holes.
I need to stop losing weight

[Anonymous No.15544176]

>>15544151
Where can I buy some entry level cheaper knit polos to get started which won't be shit? I really prefer neutrals so more greys/blacks/browns/beige over navy if possible.

[Anonymous No.15544424]

>>15542242
TIP is literally people wearing costumes and seething when someone breaks their arbitrary made up rules.
We're just out here dressing nice for ourselves because we like it

[Anonymous No.15544509]

>>15544151
Yeah when I go to work in a rougher oxford shit and jeans I have people asking why I'm so dressed up. These bitches don't know I've been dressing DOWN because of covid

[Anonymous No.15544743]

https://discord.com/invite/dreAVmM

https://discord.com/invite/eBjkfMA

[Anonymous No.15545064]

do women have their own sprezzatura style like how prep/ivy women a prep/ivy style or do they just wear suits?

[Anonymous No.15545137]

Hi guys
Could I get some feed back on pic related.
I was looking to buy pocket squares and came across these the price is about 7 dollars for all of them.
Should buy them? As I'm only a little bit sure about liking 2 of them. But the price is good I think

[Anonymous No.15545159]

>>15545137
You can take those that you like and sell the others in a few months (because you may end up liking different ones than you originally imagined). Either way the price is good, yes.

[Anonymous No.15545160]

>>15544155
Buy one of these until you‘ve reached your goal weight. No need for holes and one remains well dressed. They also come in fabric instead of leather.

[Anonymous No.15545162]

>>15545137
If you only like two, $7 is still a good price. Make sure to actually put them in a suit pocket before discarding/re-selling. As only a shred of the pocket square is visible, they often are a lot less gaudy than they appear when lying flat.

[Anonymous No.15545167]

>>15545064
I guess that's a no

[Anonymous No.15545176]

>>15545167
Sprezzatura in itself is not a style, it is dressing elegantly and being confident in that elegance, even if you break the "traditional rules" once in a while.

[Anonymous No.15545247]

>>15531193
just a little bench press to buff you chest will do the trick. you'll need it to counter your tendency to pearshape. nice choices overall.

[Anonymous No.15545248]

>>15545137
>$7 for 5
Buy them

[Anonymous No.15545250]

>>15545160
Seconding the mesh leather belt. Plus the looseness of the end when it hangs down adds a bit of nonchalance to your fit, very sprezz in nature.
>tfw spent a ton to get pants taken in before corona
>tfw lost more weight and now they are too loose again

[Anonymous No.15545258]

>>15545159
>.
>>15545162
>>15545248

Hey guys thanks so much for the advice. I appreciate it.

It is a very valid point that only part of the pocket square is visible not the entire thing.

[Anonymous No.15545290]

how would you apply sprezzatura to modern, urban looks?

[Anonymous No.15545293]

>>15545290
Just dress well and be comfortable and casual. It isn't something to 'apply'.
This means getting away from urban looks. No hoodies and ripped jeans and patagonia vests.

[Anonymous No.15545363]

>>15545290
Sleazecore I guess

[Anonymous No.15545550]

>>15543722
Get one good pair of wingtips instead. More versatile.

[Anonymous No.15545553]

>>15545064
Not really. Firstly because many of the Pitti Uomo mainstay guys are gay (not as in an insult, they're literally homosexuals, sprezz is a more homosexual subculture than this thread is probably comfortable with admitting) and secondly because in the med, the equivalent for women is just a great figure, nice lingerie and a simple sundress with a loud pattern.

[Anonymous No.15545559]

>>15543722
NAYRT but Meermin happens to have two days left on the MTO for a bunch of styles in cognac barenia. Meermin isn't peak quality, but this is a good leather and their MTOs are almost always better made than stock. It's a good p/q point if you ask me.

https://eu.meermin.com/collections/made-to-order

[Anonymous No.15545859]

Is there a /sprezz/ equivalent of a waxed cotton jacket (e. g. Barbour)?

[Anonymous No.15546016]

>>15545859
Yes, non traditional Barbour models like the Reelin or Commander.

[Anonymous No.15546019]

>>15545859

[Anonymous No.15546055]

>>15540186
We are not 25 yo larping as 80 yo.

[Anonymous No.15546061]

>>15544176
Uniqlo Merino long sleeved

[Anonymous No.15546062]

I really like the style but how do you find affordable items. I see here online shops posted which are way out of my league for now and I rarely come across items of this type in normal shops. I'm in Europe if it matters.

On a side note I'm looking to buy a coat like pic related, i. e. medium length, double breasted, but so far I've only come across this one from Mango of all places. Do you know some other places where I can find similar coats?

[Anonymous No.15546149]

>>15546062
Define affordable. Give ranges.

[Anonymous No.15546157]

>>15546062
Lower end would be Massimo Dutti on sale. Don‘t buy their jackets with the fake surgeon cuff (popped up in the last thread). For suits, suitsupply is the cheapest quality you‘ll get. If that‘s too expensive, get your size in store and buy them second hand (around 150-200€ for quasi new stuff).

You can pick up individual pieces at H&M, Zara, Mango, Massimo Dutti etc.
Go thrifting for shirts and ties. If you have a sprezzy wide lapel on your suit, wide ties are correct and good. Guess what thrift shops are filled with.

[Anonymous No.15546169]

>>15546157
I mostly shop like this for summer i. e. shirts and trousers mostly, since I can't quite pull off a suit with a tie at 23 and I'd probably look ridiculous if I went to work like this, because everyone just goes casually dressed as in jeans and t shirt.

But thanks for the suggestions, I've already picked up some pieces from most of those places, but I thought there might be something more specific that I'm missing.

>>15546149
Up to a 100€ for most things. I'm willing to go higher for shoes and coats mainly.

[Anonymous No.15546241]

>>15546169
There certainly are better places, but they mainly offer higher quality at higher prices. Avoid Boggi (trash). Invest in one or two pairs of pants from Pini Parma. Charles Tyrwhitt is good for shirts (on sale only). Shoepassion or Meermin for shoes.

This style is not a cheap one. It‘s quintessentially about tailoring. With two pairs of shoes, two trousers and five shirts you‘ll go far already. Add an odd jacket and you‘ve got twenty outfits already.

[Anonymous No.15546348]

>>15546241
Thanks for the tips.

[Anonymous No.15546479]

I see a lot about suit separates in terms of mixing one suit with another, or even wearing the jacket alone, but can you wear the pants by themselves?

[Anonymous No.15546552]

>>15537998
Trousers project day 6
Not much to show this time, I'm still working on it. Today I redistributed the fabric from the darts to the back seam, did another fitting and it looked a lot better. The temporary stitches are removed again. After that I cut the welts and ironed everything, the lining for one of the back pockets is attached.

The plan for tomorrow is to attach the other lining, add the welts and prepare the button holes.

Time spent: 3h

[Anonymous No.15546562]

>>15546479
Sure, they're pants

[Anonymous No.15546573]

Where do you fellow europoors shop? Went to the town today, but every store is selling gay shit for zoomers.

[Anonymous No.15546609]

>>15546552
You seem to really know what you‘re doing. How likely would you think is it for me - an absolute beginner - to successfully take in the sides of a suit jacket. I bought two for 6€ each and they fit perfectly, except for the waist. I‘m willing to sacrifice the uglier one for practice.

[Anonymous No.15546611]

>>15546573
Did you visit the well known fashion brand stores in the centre? In my town it's the same, but in the streets parallel to the main shopping street you can find smaller stores that specialize in menswear or ladies fashion. Sometimes you can find retailers in a mall, too. Ask your boomer relatives where they buy their clothes?

[Anonymous No.15546658]

>>15546609
I think it's doable, I can walk you through it. When you have time. Short checklist:
>What kind of sewing equipment do you have? Bare minimum is a needle and thread and some small but pointy scissors. A sewing machine may be detrimental if you don't have practice with it.
>Do you have measuring tape and someone who can help you take the measurements? If the difference is too large it may not work.
>Do you have similar fabric as the outer fabric of that jacket? You can use it as practice first, and make your beginner mistakes there instead of ruining the jacket.
>How is the jacket constructed? Central vent or side vents (side vents will be a lot more difficult) I need to know if we have to open the lining.
>A pic how the jacket fits with a shirt would be helpful, too.
If it's really just the waist then it should be ok with side vents even, but it will be a lot harder if you want to take in the hips, too.

[Anonymous No.15546660]

>>15546611
I'm living in a foreign country so no relatives and no one /fa/ to ask. Found one store that was selling some Barbour stuff, so I tried pic related but looked too boxy around the waist. Have no fucking idea what I'm doing too. Might also be lowballing the budget ($500-600) so no idea if I'm even willing to shell out enough to get me started. Need something to wear during autumn, otherwise I'll have to wait til next summer to go /fa/.

[Anonymous No.15546671]

>>15546660
Did you try searching menswear store in a search engine? Maybe tell us what country it is, I am sure that some anon from there can at least give you store names to look out for.
You can also try to ask the locals.

[Anonymous No.15546684]

>>15546671
Denmark. Google showed very few menswear stores around, all of which will involve a lot of driving (living in Aarhus area). If there's a danishbro ITT, I will greatly appreciate any pointers.

[Anonymous No.15546699]

>>15546684
Did you try this one? https://minimumfashion.com/male it should be in the area, but I am not from Denmark so I have no idea desu.
The website looks decent, but they seem expensive: 200 euros for a polyester blend sports coat that has weirdly slim lapels and flap pockets may not be worth it.

[Anonymous No.15546744]

>>15546699
Thanks anon, that looks very good. I'll drive there first thing tomorrow. Coat/jacket being the most expensive article, I'm thinking to start with that and then build around it. It doesn't get below the freezing point here in the winter, so I can afford to go light and layer as necessary.

I kinda like these two, but it's hard to say how they fit until I try. They're actually quite cheap all things considered, so may be garbage quality.
https://minimumfashion.com/sandur-outerwear-7104-p22439?ItemV2-variantID=747799
https://minimumfashion.com/charles-lightweight-jacket-7320-p22415?ItemV2-variantID=747215

[Anonymous No.15546749]

>>15546658
>>15546658
The better jacket actually has no vents at all. It‘s quite casual. I personally only have needle, thread and scissors, but thought about calling up my mother who
lives nearby, owns a machine and knows how to sew.
I do have measuring tape. I‘ll post pictures tomorrow. Electric lighting in my apartment sucks.

[Anonymous No.15546881]

>>15533601
Absolutely yes. If you are under 25, this is the non autistic way to go for this style.

[Anonymous No.15546953]

>tfw got blisters on my heels AGAIN from my loafers
Fucking hell, this never ends

[Anonymous No.15546972]

>>15546953
>not putting blister plasters on in advance while breaking in a pair of loafers
NGMI, ISHYGDDT

[Mitcg No.15546981]

>>15546953
let me guess, the eternal Meermin?

[Anonymous No.15547013]

>>15546972
This saved my life for the first 2 months I first wore my derbies. The fuckers caused my feet to bleed after walking a couple blocks. The good part of that specific break in is that it creates so many calluses that I didn’t have any trouble at all with breaking in my Meermin black oxfords, and that is some seriously stiff leather.

[Anonymous No.15547017]

>>15546744
>220 for a 70% poly jacket from a noname brand
The only reason I would pay that much for that would be to flex brand recognition on others. The herringbone is interesting, but not enough to pick my interest.
Do check it out and report on how things are develop, however.

[Anonymous No.15547048]

>want to be fashionable
>Don't want to spend money
It's hard being cheap

[Anonymous No.15547078]

>>15546981
>>15547013
I keep hearing this but personally I have several pairs of Meermins (including a pair of penny loafers) and never had any break-in problems. I did with a pair of Yankos though.

[Anonymous No.15547083]

>>15546972
They are broken in! They're literally broken in, I take a week or so off from wearing them and they shred my heels again.

>>15546981
Yep. Meermin strikes again

>>15547078
Meermin use notoriously stiff plastic heel stiffeners that absolutely wreck heels. High end brands use leather as heel stiffeners, but with Meermin being a MiChina budget brand (but not necessarily a bad brand at all), they use the plastic ones that are murder on heels starting out

[Anonymous No.15547085]

>>15547048
My advice is to go thrifting and check out second hand stuff. You might surprise yourself with what you find.
Find something nice quality that you like the material and pattern and then take it to a tailor and have them alter it to your body. Congrats, you just got a nice suit for dirt cheap and if you picked out a decent piece to start with, no one will have any idea it was thrifted

[Anonymous No.15547089]

>>15547078
Are the yankos the oldest pair you own, by chance? The same thing that happened to me may have troubled you. A tough break-in creates calluses in your feet that alleviate the break-in of other shoes.
Meermin also has a wide variety of leathers in production. Some are very stiff and others are rather flexible. When they launch those made to order events they usually allow you to pick one out of 30-ish different lines of leather.

[Anonymous No.15547111]

>>15546881
long sleeve polo would be better and is still fine for under 25s

[Anonymous No.15547122]

>>15547085
I am trying to find some good pieces on ebay. I am mostly looking for sport coats to go with heavier chinos and denim. I am just loathe to spend money because I want to buy a house within a few years. I should definitely keep an eye out for cheap tailoring

[Anonymous No.15547144]

>>15547048
>>want to be fashionable
>>Don't want to spend money
>It's hard being cheap
Spoken like a tru sprezz cunt. Fuck this general you are all posers LOL

[Anonymous No.15547163]

>>15538910
Nice colors

[Anonymous No.15547314]

>>15547089
Sorry, missed this earlier – no, they're my newest pair, actually. The Meermin loafers are the oldest, they're from two-three websites ago, an MTO that isn't even in their past MTO catalog anymore.

[Anonymous No.15547358]

>>15547078
Had a similar problem, my solution was twofold: moving and bending the heel by hand a lot, it makes the leather softer. The other problem was that the shoe ends 5mm higher on my heel than on the loafers that don't change, so I added a pad that elevates my foot. Problem gone.

[Anonymous No.15547418]

>>15546749
That's a good starting point. Do you have chalk or a bar of soap at home? We may need something to mark the sewing line.
At first we need to figure out how to change it anyway, so there will be no sewing the first day. I'll provide pictures then, too.

[Anonymous No.15547781]

>>15547418
I do have soap and could get tailor‘s chalk if its significantly better.
Pic related is the current fit.

[Anonymous No.15547788]

>>15547418
>>15547781
These are the available seams.
The lining looks pretty standard. I‘ve considered taking it out and not sewing it back in, as the jacket is meant for summer anyway.

[Anonymous No.15547790]

>>15547788
Forgot the picture.

[Anonymous No.15547794]

>>15547781
Can you show this without the jacket? It looks very wide around the hips rather than the waist. Taking it in on the waist could make it look like a "skirt". Is this the one you are willing to sacrifice?
Tailors chalk is not better, it's just easier to draw a thin line with it.
Where do you have the largest gap? Back, sides or from your stomach to the front?

[Anonymous No.15547807]

>>15547790
Leave the lining for now. Do these patch pockets have lining inside? In case we take in the side seam too much it would permanently keep your pockets open and that can look weird in the end. By the way, these look really huge when you wear it.
Did I misunderstand you somewhere? I thought the uglier jacket is the one you want to take in and the better jacket has no vents, or do they both have no vents?

[Anonymous No.15547826]

>>15547794
I just took the back in with a clothespin. The skirting is indeed very real and an actual problem.
The largest gap is in the sides. The pockets are unlined.
Both jackets actually have no vents. I think they may be from the same collection (no labels though).

[Anonymous No.15547830]

>>15547826
Your first pic looked better. How much room is there left between the sides and the sides and your body: at the waist, at the hips?

I'll draw a schematic so that you can understand why I am asking it

[Anonymous No.15547841]

>>15547830
About 3.5cm (1.3 inch?) at the waist (per side and around 2.2cm (0.85 inch) on the hips (per side).

I don‘t like the fit in the second picture either. You‘re absolutely right about the skirt effect.

[Anonymous No.15547866]

>>15547841
In this picture you can see the individual seem lines that we can change.
>1 pulls it closer to your stomach and sides
>2 pulls it closer to your sides
>3 pulls it closer to your stomach
>4 pulls it closer to your back
>5 pulls it closer to your sides
>6 makes it tighter around the shoulders or closer to the back
For clarification, 4 would also pull it closer to the sides a bit, but in my experience it would mostly affect how close it gets to your back, I wanted to outline the general options.
1, 2 and 3 are our least favorable options, because it will pull your pockets open.
Can you take a back pic please?
My first approach is to change 4 and 5 by 1cm at the waist. You can pinch this seem with a clothes pin about 7mm on each side at the level of the top button, this may improve the situation. If the pin does not hold you can try it with a security pin or thread, but I'll be able to help you actively again in about two hours.

[Anonymous No.15547916]

>>15547866
Please do not feel the need to guide me through every step if this! I don‘t want to burden you, especially as I‘m working full time my self, so I may not be able to act on your advice all the time (as is the case now). Don‘t waste your time. I‘d be very grateful if I could ask specific questions when necessary, though.

Your chart was very helpful by the way! I experimented a bit with this in mind. The main problem really is the hip area. The sides aren‘t actually that bad, once the hip is set.

[Anonymous No.15547930]

>>15547916
Yep, ask away. The most important thing to keep in mind is that you don't need to cut any fabric in order to change the line, so you can always return to the original fit.

[Anonymous No.15548028]

>>15530382
Comments-suggestions? The pants are completely white, the light makes them look strange

[Anonymous No.15548041]

>>15548028
>suggestions?
rotate your pics before posting
Pants are too low-rise.
You are bordering on sleazecore if not deep into it.

[Anonymous No.15548096]

>>15548028
>>15548041
The pants really look like they were made for a smaller person, hence the low rise. It does not always have to be high rise for me, but I second that it looks odd.

The shirt is grey/tan/linen colored? Hard to tell here, but I guess the combination is good if the pants are reall white

[Anonymous No.15548117]

>>15530738
where

[Anonymous No.15548562]

>>15546552
Trousers project day 7
Did everything as planned, save the button holes. Here you can see the lining on one side and the outside with the top welt attached.
Actually sewing the welts on takes roughly 10 minutes, but I like to fasten everything in place first, or else the welts may turn out crooked or wavy.

Time spent:
1.5h - fastening the welts
0.5h - sewing the welts

[Anonymous No.15548566]

>>15548562
Welt pocket turned around, but not ironed yet. Those are really confusing at first, because you sew on at the outside, then cut the slit in between and turn them around to the inside. You can easily make a mistake here if you attach something in the wrong place. As with everything, it is a matter of practice.

[Anonymous No.15548603]

What are my other or best upper body options if I am 22 and shirts are too formal right now? White polos look a little strange?

[Anonymous No.15548614]

>>15548603
How are shirts too formal? You can use linen shirts or flanell shirts, colorful polos.

[Anonymous No.15548911]

>>15546169
>double breasted coats
Schott has some peacoats, you can also thrift for ones from the navy
>linen
Most places that have any menswear have some linen, actually. Even uniqlo has linen.

[Anonymous No.15549280]

[Anonymous No.15549297]

>>15540051
thanks for fostering a nice community there at the start
you're also a cool dude, dude

[Anonymous No.15549322]

>>15548028
Like the colours, not mad about the pants fit, or that chest pocket. Overall you look good

[Anonymous No.15550144]

>>15549280
Yep

[Anonymous No.15550192]

>>15548041
>Pants are too low-rise.
AHAHAHAHAHA get a load of this guy. >>15548041
>You are bordering on sleazecore if not deep into it.
Duh, sprezz is like 40% sleaze core. If you don't look a bit sleaze core you aint sprezz. Fucking twits.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15550210]

>>15548603
>wants to in2 spezz
>doesn't want to wear a spezz staple, the shirt

Maybe this look isn't for you?

A dress shirt is miles away from some thick cotton oxford button down. Not formal at all.

[Anonymous No.15550212]

>>15550192
Sprezz is like sleaze core mixed with sex core and a touch of trad

[Anonymous No.15550648]

>>15550210
Should I button down or spread collar?
You’re right I have no idea how thick they are, they always seemed thin when I’ve seen them in UK.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15550665]

>>15550648
Button down. A plain color long sleeve polo isn't really formal either. The trick is not to jump right in. Once you feel comfortable wearing this kind of thing in a casual way, you'll feel more confident to take it in other more formal directions. But sprezzatura in itself is never really classed as really formal.

People who are used to cargo shorts and a t-shirt are going to feel so out of place wearing any kind of shirt right away.

[Anonymous No.15550678]

Hi /sprezz/, bought these trousers in a second-hand for like $2, what's your opinion on them and the fit as a whole?

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15550687]

>>15550678
They look like a good fit. Your pocket square is a little loud though. The contrast maybe a little too much.

[Anonymous No.15550691]

Disregarding individual fit, what style of prescription glasses are ideal?

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15550696]

>>15550691
Glasses are more based on your facial shape rather than a type being best. Hair, beard, glasses etc. should be used as a way to frame and balance the face, in the same way way clothes would be used on the body. So you really have to start with your facial shape and take it from there.

[Anonymous No.15550705]

shoo shoo ugly faggot

[Anonymous No.15550745]

>>15550678
Too much trad. The buttoned collar shirts with ties is a big no in the med countries. Pic related a sprezz version. Also a thinner belt (or not belt).

[Anonymous No.15550748]

>>15550745
2/3

[Anonymous No.15550751]

>>15550748
3/3

[Anonymous No.15550759]

>>15550705
He is contributing to the thread, unlike you.Your reply is basically just abuse for no valid reason. Please take that to another thread and stop derailing ours. Thanks.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15550764]

>>15550745
While I agree his fit looks a little trad (it's the tie that looks like it's maybe a college tie) enhancing that trad look, sprezzatura is not synonymous with a med look.

[Anonymous No.15550831]

I saw a review on Uniqlo saying that the merino polos are comparable to John Smedley, how can this be true? I’ve never shopped at Uniqlo but I thought that it was supposed to be shit for shirts and wool?

[Anonymous No.15550839]

>>15550748
What is this style of jacket called?

[Anonymous No.15550847]

>>15550831
It isn't true. Uniqlo uses cheap materials and methods with factory labor in China. If you need cheap and decent plain socks, underwear, undershirts then Uniqlo is alright. Anything 'nice' they make is trash though.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15550848]

>>15550839
???

It's just a double breasted jacket with peaked lapels.

[Anonymous No.15550853]

Zero thought went into this fit. It somehow sort of worked.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15550857]

>>15550853
>Zero thought went into this fit.

Then you achieved true sprezz! Looks great.

[Anonymous No.15550862]

>>15548041
Idk why the pic got rotated, so oof, the pants are indeed too low rise and desu i like mixing some sleaze in my sprezza.
>>15548096
Yes, i bought them some years ago and i'm still getting taller, but the fit is not terrible and is not uncomfortable, and yes the shirt is a light grey-tan
>>15549322
Yeah singularly this pieces are not the best but i think mixing them is good, the shirt is a safari shirt and i need the extra pockets when not going out with a jacket.
>>15550192
Thanks i guess?

[Anonymous No.15550878]

>>15550839
It's a double breasted unstructured jacket. Similar to a spanish teba jacket.

[Anonymous No.15550879]

>>15550853
Finally, Chelsea boots. The tie is too busy for my taste,l.

[Anonymous No.15550925]

Can anyone recommend where I can buy lower end but still decent items if I want to dip my feet in? English btw so no American stores.
I’m aware this isn’t a poorfag thing but I just finished university and I have a lot from internships saved so I’m looking for a job right now and would rather not spend a lot on this just yet but get a taste for it?

So for footwear, I’ll look at Loake/Meermin etc. That’s around £200 each?
Shirts either Charles Tyrwhitt or Spier&Mackay. So £30-40?
Not sure about sweaters, I have Jamieson’s/Harley for some knitwear which are around £100 but I don’t know where I can get merino in an appropriate price range considering I’ll be buying £30-40 shirts.

Not sure about pants or jackets really I think that’s the toughest one considering I squat and bench often and my measurements change so MTM is unreasonable at the moment given that I don’t even know if I can feel confident dressing like this and these are definitely the most expensive items.

Also I’d like a thinner belt with a round buckle I see in a lot of these fits but I’m not sure where to get one which is good leather so I’d be grateful if anyone could point me in the right direction.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15550972]

>>15550925
Thrift on ebay! It's the only real and true answer.

Materials over names, good materials will indicate a good item anyway.

[Anonymous No.15550973]

Slim vs regular fit shirt?

[Anonymous No.15550980]

>>15550972
but 100% wool can be bad wool can’t it? and construction quality which you can’t see until you receive it?

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15550986]

>>15550980
Well you have wool and pure new wool sued in a garment for the first time and obviously different weaves but in the case of sports coats, they are all very similar. Yeah, you will get merino etc. but that's mainly going to be used in sweaters.

>and construction quality which you can’t see until you receive it?

High quality material items are going to go hand in hand with better construction quality. You can also get big brands that are polyester and made in India or whatever which is why brands isn't always the best way to go, unless it's the top line in a brand label.

And yeah, you're always going to gamble buying things not in person but you can find things dirt cheap on ebay. You'll get a double folded finest cotton tm lewin shirt on there for about £5.

[Anonymous No.15551008]

>>15550986
Thanks I’ll take a look, I have this paralysis where I want to try something but anything less than the best is always shit and I’m told by this board. It’s like a tunnel vision thing where I’m sure the differences becomes diminishing as you pay more for an item but because I want to dip my feet in and don’t want to spend much I never end up trying anything, whether it’s shirts or jackets or whatever so I guess eBay helps and I should probably stop worrying about getting the best and just accept that I’ll settle for less but if it fits, it will still look decent.

[Anonymous No.15551019]

>>15551008
Also have no idea what I should be looking for with a jacket or sportcoat both in features and colour/pattern since it’s my first one and no idea to tell if it actually fits my shoulders and the arm holes are right before I buy it? I’ve seen a lot below £100 and I’m sure they retail for around £300-400 atleast after checking but I’m just too uneasy and I knowledgeable to thrift on eBay. I like PoW in grey or brown but I’m not sure if it’s the smartest choice.

[Anonymous No.15551020]

>>15542714
what do you do

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15551024]

>>15551008
Fit is always key, the next issue will be poor quality material like how polyester falls. Natural material such as 100% wool will be much better and that's not going to differ between a medium priced garment and a really expensive one.

A 10,000 dollar suit isn't going to make someone look better than in a 5000 one.

For shirts just focus on things such as 100% cotton, trousers mainly 100% wool and jackets 100% wool and the lining 100% viscose or similar.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15551035]

>>15551019
If you have huge arms you're going to have a hard time all over. If they are just big, you obviously need to avoid all slim fit items. Older pieces are more generous cut a lot of the time so are a benefit in this case.

I'd look for single colors on a sports coat. Lighter is more versatile and looks more casual. Lots should list the measurements or you can always ask them.

You can pick up some for peanuts if you just want to get a feel for the jackets and see how you look roughly in person in them.

£100 is way too much. Grey and browns can look more English country look often but those colors are easily picked up used in the UK.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15551060]

>>15551035
The close up of this jacket shows it best, it looks bad because it's all creased in the full picture.

But this has a starting price of £9.99 and it's doubtful it will even receive a bid.

It's 100% linen and 100% viscose lined. It's going to be cool, breathable and it's a versatile color.

Even your regular high street brands priced many times over this will not have the same materials and will have polyester in there.

The best thing people can ever do is to learn very basic alterations on items and you can tailor fit thrifted jackets and they will fit almost perfect then.

[Anonymous No.15551069]

>>15551060
Yes I noticed a lot of images do not do it’s justice because they’re so poor. What search term would you use for that?

It’s just shoulder width that needs to fit mostly isn’t it? Is it possible to do alterations following a video or am I certain to fuck up at my first attempts?

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15551073]

>>15551060
Meanwhile here is a Hugo Boss linen jacket at £17.99 with a 25% polyester blend in it. The majority would go for this because of the name but it's poorer quality overall.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15551083]

>>15551069
Poor images and lack of measurements can work in your advantage because most people just pass them by.

Just search "men/man/mens linen/wool blazer/jacket and chest size"

>It’s just shoulder width that needs to fit mostly isn’t it?

Yes shoulder is very important. You can get the measurements. If you work out and things chance it's of course also helpful to purchase lower priced items.

>Is it possible to do alterations following a video or am I certain to fuck up at my first attempts?

Lol yes. You def have to start with a t-shirt, tapering the sides, tapering trousers in, shorten the legs etc.

You'd need a basic sewing machine under £100. You'd mainly use 2-3 stitches. But imo for people on here, it's really worth it. You'll learn something to last a life time and no matter how you dress you'll be able to tailor your items.

You could pick up a used shirt for £5 but if you used a tailor maybe £15 for a basic alternation. Something you can do in less than an hour.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15551091]

Now on the other hand for the same price, this is what you avoid haha unless you want the 70s farmer look. But they still have good quality materials and people would pay 5 x the amount for something identical for this if it said "harris tweed" on it when it's pretty much the same.

[Anonymous No.15551163]

>>15551091
Cecil do you try and sprezz a bit? Srsly, grow your shaggy beard and make an effort! You’d look great.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15551184]

>>15551163
Almost daily :o)

[Anonymous No.15551244]

>>15548562
Trousers project day 8
No pictures today, had to reschedule a bit and there is nothing new to show today. Most of my time went into making the belt loops, and the button holes for the back pockets are done.
Tomorrow it's just closing those pockets and sewing the separate legs.

Time spent:
2h - belt loops
2h - ironing the welts, stitching around the pocket openings, button holes

[Anonymous No.15551279]

>>15551060
>>15551073
What about the lining for the sleeves in those? Most RTW brands use synthetic fibre for the sleeves and I went this path, too. The synthetic is very smooth and does not catch the shirt sleeve when putting on the jacket, but with my linen viscose blend I get stuck a lot more easily, i.e. the shoulders ride up too much and I have to pull the sleeves down once to correct this.
Granted, the sleeves for this jacket were tight already, but in the synthetics lined sleeves I don't have this problem.
One option I might explore is cotton satin for the sleeve lining, it should also be very smooth.

[CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ No.15551312]

>>15551279
Yes, you're right even when you have a natural lining most brands will still save money by polyester sleeve linings. Which in itself isn't terrible as the material round the body being able to breathe is the most important but most of the jackets I list have viscose, even silk at times on the whole body and arms. I'd still consider polyester sleeve linings low end and tend to avoid them.

There are different types of viscose though like rayon and ones manufactured in Japan. I don't see why they are not as smooth as polyester. It will also depend on the friction of the material of your top/shirt etc. Never really seen it as an issue, you would never get a canvassed suit with polyester lining anywhere.

Viscose is just common for linings you'll come across on the used market. Cotton satin, not so much!

[Anonymous No.15551545]

What's /sprezz/'s opinion on suspenders?

[Anonymous No.15551917]

>>15551545
They change the lines of your body quite a bit and are hard to pull off without looking like grandpa.
If your pants fit right you don't need suspenders or a belt.

[Anonymous No.15552405]

New thread:
>>15552401
>>15552401
>>15552401

Exploited the low activity at the moment, even if the bump limit was not hit yet.

[Anonymous No.15552518]

>>15552405
Is there actually a problem if it does not hit the bump limit? Does it get archived?

[Anonymous No.15552678]

>>15550879
Don't tell /tip/, but chelsea boots can be alright.

>>15550857
Thanks Cecil.

>>15551020
Bunch of consulting and entrepreneurial stuff.

>>15551091
muh heritage