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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/fa/ - Fashion


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File: 178 KB, 736x1053, yohji.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
14299978 No.14299978 [Reply] [Original]

Since people in Yohji general were asking for this, here's a general for all your Yohji, Rei, Junya and others loving.
The Sticky that discord-anon posted pastebin.com/XBZtTHT2
What to post?
>suggestions for the direction of /jpg/
>season info
>retailer info
>inspo
The state of this board depends on us.

>> No.14299982
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14299982

>> No.14300016
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14300016

>> No.14300021
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14300021

Going to Osaka and Tokyo this summer. What are your favourite stores to go to? I'm both curious and looking for something off the beaten path

>> No.14300123
File: 182 KB, 1364x2048, yyamamoto-fall-2018-rtw-slide-LB1B-superJumbo.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
14300123

>> No.14300174

arrighty here is the previous thread
>>14287636
and the google drive link
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1PPy5UQ3v70hrffS9CTuHx4BLH4y775Wx?usp=sharing
in the future when making generals post these, the sticky is there too!

>> No.14300178

First we maybe should think which japanese brands ought to be discussed, only yy&cdg? those and issey? all the "archive" brands too like n(n) and undercover, how about Kapital and visvim?

>> No.14300186

>>14300021
check all the 2nd hand stores out! Good deals to be found

>> No.14300194

also a drive 4 comme stuff?

>> No.14300206

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jQYDfmfcGrf1u5q3iEsanfnXPEgWJAWZ?usp=sharing
here u go

>> No.14300233
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14300233

>> No.14300242

seems like these will die ou pretty quick without someone answaring shit constantly, so ill start posting these every thursday, and answaring with my retards knowldege of comme, yest the stones pants are from 06 and no there is no store stocking them rn

>> No.14300317

>>14300178
All of them imo, and not just brands, but also the many cultural aspects of Japan.

>> No.14300319

>>14300317
this is /fa/ u know

>> No.14300321

>>14300317
also >all of them
would imo just make this a total mess

>> No.14300376
File: 40 KB, 770x513, yohjiinglasses.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
14300376

>>14300178
I would prefer more avant-garde/high fashion discussion. No extremly normie stuff(i.e. uniqlo),no hypebeast shit, and preferably little to no Y-3 or CDG Play.

>> No.14300388

>>14300376
>talking about cdg play
:D
but yeah that's kinda where i'd like the conversation too

>> No.14300439

>>14300376
but hey, what are your favourite pieces from them? What are your yy/cdg grails? How about your experiences w the brands?

>> No.14300449

>>14300021
Homme Plisse!

>> No.14300457

>>14300449
that's pretty hypebeast tho

>> No.14300548

>>14300376
>>14300321
Ok not all of them lol, for some reason I assumed it was obvious i was against normie shit. No CDG Play and a little Y-3 should be the limit.

Aside from the obvious brands and designer like Yohji, CDG, and Undercover, we should also have some space for the lesser known ones like Kei Ninomiya, Fumito Ganryu, and sacai's high fashion stuff

>> No.14300787

Again, does anyone know where I can watch/download the 'Dressmaker' film/documentary? I'd love to watch it.

>> No.14300979
File: 483 KB, 640x989, 5+things+to+know+about+Rei+Kawakubo+via+DNAMAG.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
14300979

Rei is super cute, not gonna lie

>> No.14301139

What can I do to get pants that fit like >>14300021
or >>14299982 without spending much?
Thrift suit or cotton pants, size up at the waist for bigger leg opening and crop them if they are too long? Just that? Are they autistically crafted for a better fit or just straight leg?

>> No.14301175
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14301175

chloma is very based

>> No.14301186

search up "the casual" on youtube for a guy that talks about japanese fashion, production values and content are pretty good

>> No.14301218
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14301218

>>14301186
His channel, or more so Japanese-focused videos, seem to be focused on streetwear, with the occasional hype or click generating video. Can you provide some examples of him focusing on higher-end Japanese fashion?

If you're him, then I'd recommend doing that. The average person doesn't care for race relations, whether in Japan or fashion houses. It's time to branch off from streetwear, or put your focus on Haute Couture.

>> No.14301259

We don't need more generals god damn it

>> No.14301312

>>14300787
https://mega.nz/#!HlggGIZS!rhHmZjYzwVODeKkXJTNwMIflQHqAHPqBrZTjPjEYxKw

>> No.14301343

>>14301259
There's nothing wrong with generals, as long as you keep them sparse, and full of information.

>> No.14301359
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14301359

>>14300376
i am here for the avant garde stuff

>> No.14301365
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14301365

Has anybody read this?

>> No.14301392
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14301392

>>14299978
Blackmeans make awesome pants and jackets. I wish it wasn't so hard to acquire in north america

>> No.14301398
File: 191 KB, 984x1440, je_bm_jacket.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
14301398

>>14301392
imo this is the best double rider of all time, the cut is phenomenal

>> No.14301491

>>14301398
I'm not well informed, what's phenomenal about the cut?

>> No.14301542
File: 93 KB, 984x1440, BLACKMEANS_RIDERS_JACKET_BLACK_04.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
14301542

>>14301491
The hem tapers from the back and is cropped higher than most leather jackets; this visually establishes a higher waistline which makes your legs look longer. It's great for layering and looks awesome if you're even the slightest bit metrosexual (very nice for slp type fits and most wearable fashion this expensive).

The sleeves are cut very slim as well, particularly the cuffs. Notice how the model doesn't even have to zip up the cuff and it still looks great. When zipped, the cuff is slightly tapered which is nice for us skinny bois. Similar to the hem, the cuff is also cropped higher than most moto jackets; when they were actually made for motorcycles the sleeves had to be a little too long so that they cover and protect your hands as you ride. Unfortunately this looks a little awkward unless you happen to have super long arms.

The shoulder to waist ratio, although not unique to this jacket, is a clean slim cut. Which is perfect because it'll hug your body and break in nicely to fit perfectly over time. They didn't fuck up the design by adding any crazy pockets that fold weirdly which happens sometimes with expensive moto jackets. Shoulder epaulets are always nice to accentuate your V-taper a little bit as well.

Overall, it's superbly executed with the standout detail being the best hem I've ever seen. Coupled with the fact that the leather is coming from Blackmeans, It's basically the only leather jacket I'm going to buy before I get an expensive ass sewing machine to construct my own (this is leatheranon btw). I also want it because I want to copy the pattern for myself haha.

>> No.14301560

>>14301542
I just picked up the standard JE rider. Do you know how that jacket fits / quality compared to the blackmeans collab?

>> No.14301564

>>14301186
His content blows, why live in Japan if you're just going to post about dogshit Bape and John Elliot?

>> No.14301566
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14301566

Copped this in a m is it ok to stretch pique polos?

>> No.14301610
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14301610

>>14301491
>>14301542
Some more cuff action, and a couple more details I forgot

They also have a little grommet on the sleeves for airflow which is another cool little motorcycling detail. I honestly have never seen them on a modern jacket outside of blackmeans since actual motorcycle jackets now generally have patches of different materials with higher airflow.

Blackmeans hardware (zippers, snaps, etc) is also phenomenal and gets a patina like the actual leather, it doesn't fade from gold to silver or silver to bronze in color. It slightly changes tone in the places you touch over time.

Japan in general is awesome for leather goods. They're known for having the best hardware manufacturers, some of the best leather, and a lot of the best tools in the world for it. They take leather very seriously, have awesome construction and a lot of pride in their work.

God damn this jacket is dope.

>>14301560
Main difference in the fit is the longer hem and the fact that it doesn't taper from the back outward, although it does have some cool little belts. The sleeves might be a tiny bit roomier but honestly I'm not sure. No epaulets means you miss out on the visual shoulder boost in your silhouette.

As for quality, you'll still be more than okay as that's JE's focus in the first place. The main difference will be when you wear it over an extended time; the blackmeans jacket would develop a better patina for both the leather and the hardware. It would also be more unique to you. The JE jacket would definitely develop a nice patina as well so it's not too much to worry about unless you're super neurotic about these little details

>> No.14301626
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14301626

>>14301610
How's the sizing on my jacket? I went tts (L) opposed to the recommended size up

>> No.14301632
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14301632

>>14301626
Another pic for reference. I have someone wanting to trade my L for an XL

>> No.14301634

>>14301626
You made the right choice! Fits you great. Never size up for leather jackets, they're supposed to break in and get more comfy anyway. Coming home drunk after the bar and passing out in it always speeds up my break-in process lol

If I were in your position, I definitely wouldn't take the trade

>> No.14301641

>>14301626
>>14301634
Oh and selling a Large size jacket will be easier if you ever decide to as well

>> No.14301645
File: 40 KB, 318x478, bm_pants2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
14301645

Some more blackmeans inspo for the thread

>> No.14301646

>>14301641
Cheers and thank you for the advice!

>> No.14301653

>>14301645
cringe

>> No.14301757
File: 479 KB, 544x1424, bm_pants3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
14301757

>>14301646
No worries!

>> No.14301810

>>14301365
It's good if you want a reasonably in-depth knowledge of Japanese fashion designers but there's a few typos (Masaki Matsushima is spelled Masaki Matsushita for whatever reason) and incorrect citations. I love any and all Bloomsbury/Berg books desu, much more informative and in-depth than coffee table books.

>> No.14302202

>>14301312
Nice, thanks!

>> No.14302218
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14302218

>> No.14302287

>>14301757
no one man should have all them pockets

>> No.14302445
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14302445

>> No.14302621
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14302621

>> No.14302780
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14302780

>> No.14302851

>>14300016
>>14299982
how can someone be this based. raf been there, but fell off, and osti just died on his peak level

>> No.14302918
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14302918

Thoughts on a priest shirt for a recovering hediboy's first yohji piece?
I don't wanna give up my skinny pants and boots just yet, but I was thinking it could pair well with them if it was styled like a coat over a longer shirt, maybe with an oversized shawl in fall/early spring?
Also what's a good price for one and is Rosen's plank shirt a solid budget version to try the look out?

>> No.14303036
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14303036

What are your favourite shoe stores in Japan? I'm looking to buy a nice pair of boots, but nothing in particular

>>14302918
This looks really good, I'm certain it would pair great with your current clothes. Just make sure you get the right size for you, as the look of the draping can change dramatically.
Can't say much about Rosen's stuff though.

>> No.14303085

>>14299978
whitoid not invited

>> No.14303376

>>14303036
I like Tricker's and how their classic "English menswear" vibe compliments and grounds my yohji/cdg stuff without it looking too over the top. The Japanese really like their Northamptonshire shoemakers desu. Red Wing, DMs, Ann Demeulemeester, Officine Creative, Marsell, Guidi, and Cherevichkiotvichki are other options but I'm personally not a fan of the latter two (and other similar avant-garde brands) because most people under 35 who wear them don't look mature/old enough for them imo. Yohji himself wears docs and red wings.

>> No.14303418
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14303418

>> No.14303446

tfw poorfag and thrifting is cope

>> No.14303572

>>14303376
Thank you for the response! Blessings

>> No.14303632
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14303632

>>14303036
Thanks man! Have some colourful yohji for your troubles. I'll start lurking y!jp to dodge that gaijin tax and keep sizing in mind.
As for shoes, I can't recommend much beyond >>14303376 but there's a brand called Mr. Olive which does the JP repro thing for Red Wing silhouettes.

>> No.14304283

>>14303572
No problemo. I would also add Margaret Howell and Paraboot to the list.

>> No.14304402

>>14299978
tfw not living in japan even tho living there kinda sucks too much narrow spaces unless you get taken in by a japanese milf or something but that life aint fun if im gonna be a manwhore imma be an expensive manwhore

>> No.14304756

>>14301566
only thing ok for this is to burn it

>> No.14304806
File: 939 KB, 1982x3000, COMME-DES-GARCONS-SPRING-1997-RTW-DETAIL-28.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
14304806

Thoughts on Body Meets Dress? It's the collection that got me really into avant-garde fashion and high fashion as a whole

>> No.14304830

>>14304806
I mean it's one of commes most talked about collections (besides play obviously) and for good reason. I love how it disregards all preset notions of beauty, however for that reason no one will ever wear that anywhere, which in ways makes it quite futile.

>> No.14304852

>>14302780
id on shoes?

>> No.14304861

>>14304852
seems like nike flyknit somethings

>> No.14304896
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14304896

>>14304861
true yeah, possibly these flyknit frees

>> No.14304901

>>14304896
yeah prob, might be an older model tho?

>> No.14304911
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14304911

>>14304901
what makes you say that? the pic is from fw17 and I think these were the model out at the time, but I might be wrong.

also posting inspo

>> No.14304914
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14304914

>>14304911

>> No.14304920
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14304920

>>14304914

>> No.14304934
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14304934

>>14304920

>> No.14305078

>>14304830
I can see why you think it can be futile, but the more I look back on it the more I appreciate aspects about it that aren't about disregarding beauty norms. On some of the clothes it's evident how intricate the craftsmanship is, like with their constricting aspect and the pattern choices. And while the collection does seem to disregard notions of beauty, I wouldn't say that it is devoid of them. The models' heads, arms, and sometimes legs aren't deformed by the clothing at all. I feel like this collection is what the designers these days who try to uplift ugliness (and fail) are inadvertently emulating.

>> No.14305103

>>14300376
This is again why calling it Karasu Zoku is best; japan general just attracts the more normal elements . also /kzg/ sounds cooler

>> No.14305153
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14305153

>>14305103
Let's have a small thread question.
Where do you find the beauty in this style or genre of clothes? What appeals to you the least?

>> No.14305208

>>14304911
It's Rei Kawakubo herself, so pretty old. And weren't >>14304901 asking about the shoes?

>> No.14305249

>>14305208
we're both talking about the shoes, and I know what rei looks like.

>> No.14305277

>>14305249
Oh, sorry misread your post

>> No.14305284
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14305284

>>14301398
>>14301542
Sorry bud, shoulder lapels are for fags.
Wmnnc > psychocandy > ll x cdg > hedi >blackmeans

>> No.14305668
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14305668

>>14305103
Karasu Zoku is very limiting, disallowing even a lot of designer clothing. So, considering the amount of posters, I would say it's better off like it is now.

>> No.14305920
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14305920

>> No.14306793

>>14305284
psychocandy & ll x cdg's writing on the back is super trashy (& copied by shitty cheaper jackets)

wmnnc is nice but doesn't really have any interesting features

All 3 of the above have cuts that could be improved, Hedi's are usually great tho

Blackmeans x JE is still the best overall

>> No.14306856

>>14301343
The weekend elderscrolls thread is a perfect example. only post on the weekend. It keeps it limited and has time to reflect on its content instead of just endlessly spewing nonsense.
>>14305668
I think Japan is limiting and invites the potential to have the wrong influx of people because of a generalization. KZ wasnt just about the colour but the form. When you consider the people who jumped into the culture were mostly consuming cdg and local brands anyway I think its a great descriptor for our community.

>> No.14307043

Oh this thread is back.

Missed the Karasu Zoku thread we had a while back last year, shit was legit.

Hope to see some Kapital in here ;^)

>> No.14307424
File: 112 KB, 800x1200, https___hypebeast.com_image_2018_06_yohji-yamamoto-spring-summer-2019-05.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
14307424

>> No.14308149

>>14302918
Late response but don’t buy Rosen; I’ve owned some, my friends have owned some, all of us regretted it. Gracia (the owner) is like 5’4” and the stuff the male models wear are usually tailored to them. Nothing feels particularly good or is cut particularly well. and don’t trust budget alternatives to niche looks like yohji. I’ve known a lot of people who have attempted this across various iterations of weirdo fashion, from rick to jap boy shit, and it will not turn out how you want it to 90% of the time. Even if it seems hard or it will take longer it is much more worth it to wait until you can find the item you want for a price you can buy it for instead of spending the finite amount of money you have on something you will regret but not be able to get rid of. Anon out

>> No.14308449

>>14308149
Can't you literally get the rosen clothes tailored upon making the order though?

>> No.14308624

>>14308449
you can yeah! neither me nor my peers did this,
maybe that would have made it better. regardless
as an owner of both rosen and yohji items it is my personal recommendation not to go for seemingly cheaper alternatives and just save for the thing you really want which probably isnt that much more expensive than the rosen piece. if you truly feel like you want the rosen go for it but at the end of the day its just Inspired By Your Favorite Avant Garde Brands!!! and will never feel the same. imo. apologies if im coming across a certain way just trying to save anons coming into this style from making the mistakes we did

>> No.14308631

>>14308624
I get you, I have purchased from Rosen myself, personally I find them pretty good for its own sphere of style, rather than trying to force it into a traditionally Yohji type outfit, though I guess people inevitably will want a cheaper alternative to xyz.

>> No.14309082

>>14308631
Let them suffer for that type of alternative consumerism. It's a nice brand period and while it may draw inspiration I think it has a nice place in the independent market creatively

>> No.14309372
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14309372

What are your favourite shoes to wear with the usual Karasu Zoku styles? I used to only wear sneakers aside from events so I am mostly clueless. I roughly know what I'd like to wear but I am still a little clueless about how to work the clothes around, especially the shoes.

Pic somewhat related

>> No.14310303
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14310303

>> No.14310577

>>14308624
>complains about clothing not looking like tailored when he chose to not get it tailored
This is very retarded anon

>> No.14311003
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14311003

Is pic related the epitome of Japanese fashion?

>> No.14311414

>>14308624
Hey, >>14302918 here.
Appreciate the advice man. I was hoping for an almost 1:1 alternative, so just knowing that the feel of the fabric isn't up to par puts me off.
The $200 I would've spent is a good chunk of used Yohji anyway and I'm in no hurry to cop.

>> No.14311908

>>14311414
While I was posting about being happy about Rosen, don't ever buy from another designer for 1:1 alternatives..Insult to both parties and probably won't be happy either

>> No.14312447
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14312447

>>14311003
No, this is

>> No.14312763

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdGcv0OLi0E

This guy is really good. Hopefully he gets big, IG fashion needs to fuck off already

>> No.14312807

>>14311003
Even in game everyone tells that Kiryu isn't fa lol

>> No.14312905
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14312905

how much jp fashion can a westerner wear without coming of as a wannabe jap?

>> No.14313071
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14313071

>>14312905
The truth is that as long as you wear it well, know your stuff, and don't have your life revolve around the clothes, then no-one will bat an eye. If anything, I've found that the ones gatekeeping are often insecure foreigners, and in fact Japanese people love seeing their own styles being adapted well by foreigners.

Just look at the models Yohji puts out on the runway. This guy is fuckin balling and owning it. Also if anyone knows his name that would be sick thanks

>> No.14313110

>>14313071
>Just look at the models
they're hired specifically for their looks.
they have garments adjusted to fit them.
a hair stylist does their hair.
a makeup-artist fixes their face.
he's not "owning it" as much as he is paid to look and act like it.
it really doesn't say anything about everyday usage.

>> No.14313121

And I forgot to mention this, but work on your body, face, and mind if needed. If you are not confident in your bare self, then you will look and feel even worse covering it up, and people will sense it. Part of being a larper is trying too hard, so being appealing besides your clothing is key to not being a wannabe.

>> No.14313135

>>14313110
Yes, the model is an impossible ideal, but the question was about not coming off as a wannabe. For the sake of comparison, there is a difference between 'perfection' (the model) and a wannabe, which is the grooming, no?

Fair point about everyday usage though, what would you suggest to >>14312905 ?

>> No.14313160

>>14312905
Dress to your own proportions, lifestyle, career, hobbies. You're gonna look like a dork with black wool gabardine pants at a summer bbq.

>> No.14313446

>>14301645
I have a blog exactly for this, check it out
https://peoplewearingblackmeans.tumblr.com/

>> No.14314278

>>14312905
whitoid like you should not be allow to wear it

>> No.14314612

>>14301610
Anybody got ID on those Jeans ?

>> No.14314658

>>14311908
Yeah, you're absolutely right, though I was looking at is as more of a wardrobe substitute than a 1:1 repro if that makes any sense.
That said I give the same advice to people in boot generals asking for Guidi alternatives, so it makes sense to hear it repeated in this context.