1940s Men's Casualwear

[Anonymous No.14225608]

Alright guys, I'm going to give you a quick rundown in postwar 40s, early 50s men's casualwear. Honestly I just find it interesting to see how people dressed back then, and I'm not encouraging you to become a costume-like fedora tipper; don't make this a discussion of 'classy' clothing or anything stupid like that, just enjoy the pretty pictures and see if there's anything you find aesthetically pleasing here.

I'll be posting images along with types of clothing, and probably a photo dump at the end

[Anonymous No.14225619]

>Shirts: Dress shirts were absolutely essential apparel at that point in time, and most often were simply white with a spread collar and barrel cuffs. However, french cuffs caught on in the mid-50s again, and club collars were pretty popular in the late 30s, so you'll see some carry over depending on the photo.

Casual shirts came in several varieties, although many of them were simply dress-style shirts with larger collars, cuban style collars, and a boxier fit than usual. Colors varied from bright to bland khaki, but plaid versions were vibrant and exciting. This is one of the more distinctive looks that would be later copied in the late 60s, early 70s.

Camp shirts were a derivative of these, and many of them featured geometric or repetitive patterns. They almost never had a dress style collar, but instead a spread one intended to be open.

The Aloha shirt and western "Roy Rogers" Shirts were fads that really stuck through the 40s into the 50s, even in regional areas that weren't necessarily associated with either. Ease of travel after the war allowed for more vacations to tropical or western destinations.

[Anonymous No.14225630]

Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.14225633]

>>14225619
>Shirts continued:

The standard undershirt before the war was a white scoop-necked wife beater, but after the war saw a boom in white crew-necked t-shirts, along with scoop necked variations (not V-neck). GIs returning from the war were already used to their t-shirts, and they remained a staple for eternity thereafter. Most undershirts were plain white, but striped and patterned versions were popular with teenagers and younger men. These were not worn baggy, but form-fitting to act better as underwear. Sleeves were SHORT and tight, but could be used to carry cigarettes if you didn't have a jacket pocket to stuff them into.

Polos caught on in the later 40s, and started out with solid, bold colors. This graduated into stripes and contrast collars later on. They were worn tight, visible undershirt or not depending on the man.

Sweaters and cardigans were incredibly popular at the time, especially since central heating was less common and they were quite comfortable to wear indoors. Crew and V-necks were both common, as well as simple striped or repetitive patterning. Collars were sometimes contrasted. Sweater vests were better suited for those who wore suits all day, and gave a more casual appearance overall.

[Anonymous No.14225651]

>Shirts final:

Work shirts for blue-collar men were made from denim or chambray, featuring an indigo, light blue, green, or pink hue depending on the workplace. Dickies and other workwear brands would change this up with their polyester-blended shirts, which made for easier laundering and better durability over time. Strangely enough, Dickies still sells their 40s style spear-collar work shirts, alongside their poly work shirts (same cut too!) at common store locations in the US. Some things never change

Materials were fairly straightforward depending on the type of shirt
>Dress- Broadcloth, oxford woven cotton, ecru, sometimes rayon
>casual- dacron, rayon, cotton, silk
>work- polyester, denim, chambray
>polo- cotton, sometimes poly blends
>T-shirts and wifebeaters- cotton

[Anonymous No.14225673]

>Pants

Pants changed very little in this time period, and usually carried with them some distinctive characteristics. Most were high-waisted, cuffed, and often pleated or reverse-pleated. Cuffs added additional weight to the bottom of each leg, giving them a better drape effect due to their loose fit. Slim fit was NOT in style, and they were intended to be comfortable with an extremely wide range of movement. Early slacks were extremely high waisted, and not intended to be worn with a belt. Some of the catalog photos will look exceptionally exaggerated in this regard, but that's likely due to artistic interpretation more than the reality of the situation

Other casual pants included cotton chino flat-fronts. They would be at least mid-waisted, but likely didn't feature cuffs or pleats. These were usually worn around the house, and weren't considered proper dress.

Shorts were usually just shortened cotton flat-fronts, and were mainly worn by young boys and teenagers.

[Anonymous No.14225676]

bump

[Anonymous No.14225684]

>Pants continued:

Suspenders had lost their style by the late 30s, and belts were the primary way of holding those pants up by the postwar years. Dress belts were incredibly slim, and featured a simple square clasp in either brass or nickel.

Pants break (length of hem) was subjective. Full break wasn't uncommon among older men, and is not considered poor form. No break was more popular with college kids and younger men, and promoted a more clean look.

Common pants colors included chocolate, taupe, olive, khaki, sky blue, light gray, charcoal, and occasionally burgundy. Black would only entire widespread popularity again in the mid-50s or so. Patterns such as pinstripes, checkering, or plaid weren't unheard of, but would usually be paired with a more conservative shirt to compensate

Materials for dress pants were as follows:
>Wool, rayon, dacron, cotton, polyester

[Anonymous No.14225699]

>Jeans

I'm sure you're wondering where jeans fit into all of this. In the 40s, they were considered low-class workwear for the poor and farmers; however, they caught on with teenagers by the late 40s, and gradually became more acceptable throughout the 50s. It would be uncommon to see an adult man wearing jeans outside of a blue-collar neighborhood until then.

Fit was loose practically everywhere except the waist, and the waist was HIGH. They draped more like dress pants than the jeans of today, and give a much different appearance overall. Due to the standardized sizing of jeans at the time, most people simply rolled or turned up their cuffs, or hemmed them after shrinking. Not going to go into selvage because it's a lot to go over.

Rigid indigo was the only color available until the mid 50s when Elvis popularized black Levi's. Light was was only popular with surfers in the later 50s, and was considered to be a symbol of the counterculture by the 60s.

For purchase today, standard Levi's 501s have been altered so much throughout the years that they are practically unrecognizable, but a number of companies make reproduction cuts from the era. However, if you don't mind a more western appearance, Wrangler 13MWZs have retained their look almost completely, and come in the same rigid coloration as when they were Blue Bell

[Anonymous No.14225704]

Thank you this thread OP! Sorry I don't have anything to add, but this is great info.

[Anonymous No.14225719]

>Jackets

Non-suit based jackets became more commonplace during the wartime years, and were generally acceptable for casual outings and functions. Sport coats were oftentimes substituted for full suits in semi-formal settings. There is a wide range of jackets that became popular in this time, and I apologize in advance if I don't mention a specific type.

Safari jackets were a style icon around this time, and could be purchased in a ridiculous amount of colors- however, their tenure was short-lived, and their popularity dropped like a brick in the 50s.

Basic windbreakers and Harringtons came onto the scene by the late 40s, but oftentimes featured a much more bold color scheme and yoke than ones available today. They came extremely short, as they were intended to be used with high-waisted pants. Although James Dean's Harrington is absolutely iconic today, it's coloration was surprisingly normal considering the times.

Leather jackets saw EXCEPTIONAL popularity in the postwar years, as returning airmen and giant surplus supplies allowed for most to purchase them with ease. The most common of these was the A2, which featured an elasticized waist and cuffs for better insulation. Shearling and fur styled variations were also common, but there are far too many to really list here. A common practice among bomber crews was to paint the back of their bombers with insignia, pin ups, missions flown, or air kills; since they were technically unauthorized, the quality of the artwork varies from exceptional to mediocre.

[Anonymous No.14225734]

>Jackets continued:

Other leather jackets included the Schott Perfecto and other motorcycle wear; they had not yet gained the connotations with hoodlums and delinquents yet, and were considered yet another casual offering. Many commercial manufacturers of leather jackets after the war produced variations of wartime models, so don't be surprised to see differences in color, collar, length, or sleeves. The A2 was boxy, but fitted, and the Perfecto was quite tight to act as a better protective garment

Tanker/varsity jackets followed in a similar vein, and were directly inspired by those worn by US tank crewmen during the war. They feature a bomber-style collar, and elasticized waists/sleeves. They too had a more bold color scheme postwar.

Sport coats were for those who refused to give up their suits on their off days, but usually came in much more vibrant patterns than those offered as workwear. Checkers, atomic fleck, windowpane plaid, and much more were available. Folding the shirt collar above the lapels was not considered sleazy like it is today, and was actually quite popular.

[Anonymous No.14225757]

>Jackets final:

Denim jackets were still relegated to lower-class people much like jeans were, and had short, boxy fits all around. Rigid indigo was practically it for colors, but looked exceptionally nice when faded from use. Truck drivers would oftentimes pair these with normal dress pants, giving a distinctive look that is uncommon to see today.

Quilted and "Souvenir" jackets were less common, but still available in the 40s. They were mostly a late 50s fad, and borrowed a number of elements from both bomber and tanker jackets. The infamous 'Drive' jacket falls into this category, but most examples are a little more conservative in appeal.

Trenchcoats were ubiquitous back then, and carried almost no negative qualities to them at the time. Colors were primarily khaki, olive, taupe, and gray, but other variations were available. Sales of rain jackets soared with each new Humphrey Bogart picture release.

Overcoats were a wintertime look usually paired with a suit, but some models had a more casual appearance overall. Waist belts, colored yokes, wide collars, and decadent patterns could really spice one up and make someone look like a movie star

[Anonymous No.14225790]

>Shoes

Shoes for men were not particularly diverse, and only came in a few general categories. However, coloration and material meant a lot back then.

Oxfords and derbies were an absolute staple, and traditionally would come in black or russet. Broguing and cap toes gave a more casual look, as well as crepe soles. Uncommon leathers/skins were for big spenders, and oftentimes included alligator, ostrich, and mock elephant leathers. "Spectator" high contrast shoes were all the rage in the later 40s, and most men had at least one pair for a night out. Best paired with long-drape dress pants. Be careful polishing those!

Among younger crowds, brown penny loafers and white bucks were the in thing, especially at universities. Chalk bags would be used to keep the white suede looking fresh, and loafers were kept beat up intentionally

Socks were a rainbow of colors and patterns, and it was hard to go wrong. Strangely, black wasn't very popular until the 60s when it superseded the plain white ones of the 50s. Argyle, Plaid, Checkers, and bright colors are all entirely acceptable.

[Anonymous No.14225811]

>Shoes Continued

Converse-style basketball shoes were practically the only sneakers available, and were usually reserved for actual athletics. High tops were considered standard, but low tops quickly gained traction once they were released. Teenagers wore them in public, but adults almost never did. Black, white, navy, red, and orange were the most common colors

Boots were for working people, and were usually based on the service pattern. Think Iron Rangers or Chippewas. These featured a similar build to service shoes of early WWII, and were some of the first footwear to use vulcanized rubber soles. Engineer/harness boots were another common option, and were favored by motorcyclists due to their nonslip, high endurance soles.

Western boots were uncommon but liked among most, especially with the western craze starting in the 30s. Shafts of these boots were extremely intricate, and almost always handmade at that time. This boosted their price quite a bit, making them out of reach for the average consumer who would only wear them on occasion. Harry S. Truman's boots, custom made for him by the Tony Lama company, really made them popular. Toes weren't quite as pointy as they are now.

Will return in 30 minutes or so

[Anonymous No.14225815]

[Anonymous No.14225880]

Great information, thanks OP.

[Anonymous No.14225938]

Great, by any chance can you do polos and shorts?

[Anonymous No.14225945]

Dumb thread, a lot of these guys are balding / receding but they're clinging to their hair rather than shaving it all off and getting swole. Absolute cope.

[Anonymous No.14225968]

>Hair

Sorry for the wait, dinner took longer to cook than anticipated.

Hair changed right about halfway through the 40s, and the primary difference was volume. In the prewar years, slicked back and extremely shiny hair was standard. Volume was low, and the top would usually be put in place by a boarshair military brush. By '45, wavier and lightly pompadoured hair was in. This was created with combs and teasing the hair while wet, combined with product.

The basic men's haircut itself was simple enough, being a few inches long on top, and short, tapered sides. Front to back blending was common, and aided the 'wavy' look.

Crew cuts and flat tops are more of a 50s phenomenon, as well as the larger Elvis and Johnny Cash pompadours.

Common hair products include Brylcreem, Brillantine, Hair Tonic (Vitalis, Jeris, etc...), Pomade (Dax, Black and White, Sweet Georgia Brown). Pomade was primarily considered a black product until the 50s, but I wouldn't be surprised if some of these guys were using it to achieve that level of volume. The lighter hold of Brylcreem and Hair Tonic gave a slightly more natural appearance, allowing the hair to 'flop' a bit while moving around.

It may seem unhygienic today, but hair washing routines were weekly rather than daily, which certainly improved the longevity of those oily hair products. Try at your own discretion.

The 'Clark Gable' mustache was pretty much the only facial hair you could get away with back then, which was extremely neat, pencil thin, and sometimes was interrupted in the middle.

Cologne was expensive, but aftershave was common and happily used. Deodorant was less common than you'd assume around this time, and aftershave (such as aqua velva) was used instead.

[Anonymous No.14225986]

>>14225938
You could definitely get away with it, but it the look has some characteristics that may seem a bit weird now. High, patterned socks were paired with sandals to go along with the shorts, which may or may not be to your liking. It's best to just pick and choose which parts of the look you like, and discard the rest

>Hats

Although the hat was a men's necessity in the 30s, by the 40s things were changing. Men absolutely still wore fedoras with their suits, giving them a quiet anonymity during their working hours. However, as indoor time increased, hat popularity decreased as well. They were rarely worn with casual attire, but you can still see it in photos from time to time.

Fedoras and panamas were exceptionally more plentiful than any other hat style, with an emphasis on wide brims and colors that would pair well with a number of different suits. Boater hats were more of a 20s and 30s phenomenon, and had practically disappeared by Pearl Harbor. Old men not withstanding

[Anonymous No.14225999]

>Accessories

The pocket watch was dead as a door-nail, and wristwatches were one of the best status symbols a man could have besides his cuff links. Canvas and nylon straps were great for sport and dive watches, while metal linked clasps offered a more professional appearance for the average businessman. Faces were analog, with some design elements that held over from the art deco era. Expect to see some variation with them.

Since the majority of men smoked, they regularly carried lighters or matches on their person. Matches were book style, and were available at practically every establishment that wanted a bit of free advertisement. Lighters were oil filled, with zippos, ronsons, and 30s art deco variations lining the average man's pocket. Due to brass shortages, the original wartime Zippo lighters were made from carbon steel and coated with a crispy black finish, which was then discontinued afterwards.

Pocket knives were simple slip joints, and locking versions were quite uncommon amongst most honest men. Case Knives, Queen Cutlery, and GEC produce a number of these patterns to this day, and if you're interested, I'd have a look at their offerings. Stainless didn't exist (in quantity) back then! Switchblades and k55ks were for delinquents, but automatic paratrooper knives were the exception to the rule

[Anonymous No.14226007]

>Accessories Continued:

Sunglasses only became really popular after the war, especially the wayfarer, clubmaster, and aviator styled frames. Tortoiseshell and black acetate were the most common, but other variations sprung up from time to time

Since their hair was so neat, most men carried around a pocket comb at that time. The hair products were stiff, but still required maintenance throughout the day, especially with lighter holding tonics

[Anonymous No.14226025]

>>14225633
hi, one important part of 40s shirts was the pullover, also known as the "gaucho"

https://streetxsprezza.wordpress.com/2017/08/24/the-gaucho-shirt-and-other-odd-vintage-pullovers/

[Anonymous No.14226049]

>>14226025
Thank you anon, I forgot to mention them! I really wish they were more common today

>Final observations

I think that just about covers things, so I'll commence the photo dump in about an hour or so. If you have any more questions, feel free to reply to this one so I can respond to you in time.

Some general styling tips of the era:
>Visible undershirt is fine, as well as undershirt lines underneath dress shirts
>rolled sleeves are encouraged, even on short sleeve shirts. If you're wearing a T-shirt underneath, roll those sleeves first so they don't hang out
>Flat hems on shirts don't need to be tucked, while rounded hems should be
>Most men changed clothing immediately after returning home from work
>Since wool garments were usually dry cleaned, they would be worn for several times or until dirty to give them a little longer life
>Shoes were shined on a weekly basis for older men, while teenagers preferred a more worn-in appearance
>High waisted pants, now and forever
>always wear shoes with socks, even sandals


I probably forgot a few other important things along the way, but I'll rectify it as I go. Come back in an hour or so and I'll have a few pics up too

[Anonymous No.14226052]

[Anonymous No.14226055]

>>14226052

[Anonymous No.14226058]

>>14226055

[Anonymous No.14226062]

>>14226058

[Anonymous No.14226063]

hopefully not too off topic but are there any modern jeans with a similar mid-to-high rise that aren't balloons in the legs that you could recommend?

[Anonymous No.14226065]

>>14226062

[Anonymous No.14226083]

>>14226065
I'm not super aware of what's on the market right now, but a lot of it has to do with your price point. I know Levi's Vintage line has a 1930s 501, but they're pretty damn expensive. Same with Lee. Japanese offerings will probably be of even better quality, but they're outrageous sometimes price wise. 13MWZs are nice, but have that western look to them that may put you off-- If you buy them rigid, you can use a seam ripper to remove the 'leather' patch with no discoloration if you do it prior to washing

[Anonymous No.14226086]

>>14226083
intended for >>14226063

[Anonymous No.14226089]

>>14226086

[Anonymous No.14226094]

>>14226089

[Anonymous No.14226100]

>>14226094

[Anonymous No.14226112]

Minor side note:

Suits during the war were extremely bland, with small lapels, barely any pockets, and uninspired colors. This was primarily due to fabric shortages and government limitations on materials. These policies are likely why the postwar items are so flashy and bold

[Anonymous No.14226117]

>>14226112

[Anonymous No.14226127]

>>14226049
np and same

[Anonymous No.14226313]

good thread

[Anonymous No.14226315]

[Anonymous No.14226318]

[Anonymous No.14226319]

when does this prank end?

[Anonymous No.14226322]

[Anonymous No.14226326]

[Anonymous No.14226333]

>>14226326

[Anonymous No.14226335]

[Anonymous No.14226340]

>that jacket in the middle

[Anonymous No.14226344]

Oh yeah, a lot of early cotton/leather/polyester windbreakers were referred to as Eisenhower Jackets, which may help your search

[Anonymous No.14226346]

[Anonymous No.14226355]

>>14226346

[Anonymous No.14226359]

[Anonymous No.14226360]

>>14226333
Holy shit, adjusted for inflation that's like $80.

[Anonymous No.14226363]

[Anonymous No.14226367]

[Anonymous No.14226371]

[Anonymous No.14226374]

[Anonymous No.14226377]

[Anonymous No.14226383]

>>14226377

[Anonymous No.14226387]

That's all for now. Will check in periodically though

[Anonymous No.14227058]

This is all very informative. Did you ever play LA Noire? That game took place in LA 1947 and thought the clothing was pretty accurate but I am not an expert. My favourite outfit was Roy Earles two twone suit.

[Anonymous No.14227316]

>>14226360
Which doesn't sound like a lot for the time honestly, considering that those would have been made entirely by US workers and not have any artificial fabric

[Anonymous No.14227375]

>>14226058
looks like William Holden right around the time of Sunset Boulevard, right?

[Anonymous No.14227379]

>>14226315
what type of break would you say this is? mid?

[Anonymous No.14227548]

>>14226340
any idea what sort of hat the lad on the right is wearing?

[Anonymous No.14228108]

>>14227058
Yes I did, and I loved the styles in it! Whoever worked on that knew what they were doing, and kept the character design pretty well grounded all things considered. If you want something else like it, the movie LA Confidential is practically identical in style.

>>14227375
Good eye, anon! I'd say you're right on the money for the year

>>14227379
I'd say it's a quarter break- notice how those cuffs are almost hovering over the shoes, but still making light contact

>>14227548
If I had to guess, it might have been a brimless newsboy hat, but I can't be 100%


Also, if anyone is interested in noir films, here's a few starters: The Big Sleep, Chinatown, Laura, Kansas City Confidential, Kiss Me Deadly, DOA, and The Killing

[Anonymous No.14228139]

>>14225608
Great thread anon!

[Anonymous No.14228577]

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[Anonymous No.14228582]

[Anonymous No.14228585]

[Anonymous No.14228589]

>>14228585

[Anonymous No.14228592]

[Anonymous No.14228595]

>>14228592

[Anonymous No.14228598]

[Anonymous No.14228656]

>>14226387
I think its important to note, whilst somewhat off-topic, the rough out service shoes of the US Military during ww2 played a role in many movies. You see them on the hanged men in True Grit as well as on some in Blazing Saddles. Their role was primarily used as a poor man's shoe as you can imagine, but interesting none the less.