/fa/ - Fashion

[Anonymous No.14201891]

2019, I am forgotten

[Anonymous No.14201947]

Why am I starting to like his designs now after all this years..

[Anonymous No.14201965]

Thank God. That diaper pant look was awful

[Anonymous No.14202281]

>>14201891
I'm still full Rick (not always, but most of the time) and I know there are plenty others. Rick is a staple for some people and he's one of the few designers who coined their own signature look. Whether you like that look is preference.

I just wish he made vegan Ramones with the white toe cap made from something else than leather. Do you think it's worth it to write to the customer support and ask for a custom pair? Do they even do shit like that?

[Anonymous No.14202386]

>>14202281
I have alot of respect for him for continuing to not bow to trends and keep doing his own thing, even though I can't afford it myself - apart from a pair of jeans I got for cheap last week. I don't know who you'd email there but there's no harm in asking. I suspect that his company's willingness to make 'vegan' ramones indicates that they'd be willing to support a customers beliefs or stance on something.

[Anonymous No.14202400]

>>14202386
>I have alot of respect for him for continuing to not bow to trends and keep doing his own thing
This.

Say what you want, but you know you'll be very sad when Rick dies. He was a milestone in fashion history, same as Hedi 10 years ago.

[Anonymous No.14202493]

>>14202400
>He was a milestone in fashion history, same as Hedi 10 years ago.
lol

[Anonymous No.14202515]

>>14202400
>Rick dies
He's only 56

[Anonymous No.14202603]

>>14202281
Now thats what I call fucking faggotry NOW

[Anonymous No.14202618]

Not even close. He's still opening new stores and the business is still growing. Last time I talked to one of the SA's at the Rick store in NYC they said the most recent development was actually reeling the brand back. Rick got too much coverage and over-saturation. Especially the amount of Drkshdw accounts they were operating was kind of insane. The way it works now is the flagship stores get one of each style and one of each size.

Which means if there's a piece you want in that city there's one of it and if you don't get it the chance of finding another is pretty slim. Any current Rick customers can attest to this, you don't have the pick of the litter or can wait until 70% off these days. A lot of styles if you dont buy them at full price when they come in at the start of the season you just wont be able to get them at all.

RIck is partnered with some super savvy Italian business partners. Gothninja is out of trend right now but it's inevitable it will come back, that's how this whole game works. He's weathering being "out of trend" extremely well. Almost all other gothninja designers have either folded, significantly reduced their business, or have had to change their style completely to cater to streetwear being on trend.

Rick hasn't done any of this and that's why he definitely wont be forgotten anytime soon. He's one of the most individual and unique voices in fashion bar none. Especially since Lagerfeld's death there's very few people left in fashion that could be considered truly iconic like Rick is.

[Anonymous No.14202625]

>>14202400
>10 years ago

[Anonymous No.14202630]

>>14202618
Offering discount versions (drkshadow) of your own line is a recipe for bankruptcy. There are way better designers out there now like orimono berlin who have much cooler dark designs. Rick is effectively operating a niche subculture brand but using the high fashion world as his backdrop, he wont be doing Paris shows forever, he is not on the same level as a SLP Dior or Gucci. He doing the exact opposite of what high fashion is supposed to be, which is to be exclusive and offer constantly new and updated risk designs that can adapt to trends. He is just doing the same shit over and over, that might be commendable, but is it not going to work in the long run. It's the same with Boris B, he is basically the same as Rick, he does Skater inspired dark fashion, and while the designs are cool, they are basically stagnant.

[Anonymous No.14202640]

>>14202400
Hedi broke fashion and then couldn't figure out how to put himself together again. His work at Dior, especially his earlier collections, defined an entire decade but he didn't seem to know how to evolve so he got stuck in the same rehash of the glam rocker look.

Rick's early collections were to the streets what Hedi's were to the runway. They were interesting, luxurious, and oh so cool but injected with the crusty lowlife times he spent at weirdo LA warehouse parties. The difference in his trajectory though and what makes him a master is his ability to change and grow over time while maintaining a continuous thread from then up to now.

I used to think Rick was stagnating around '08-'10 but then I realized that he was just moving forward at a very slow and deliberate pace. The same has held true in the past five years. He's had some really drastic new directions and pieces but then after a few seasons I begin to see those collections as arcs of a story. Even though his recent collections are by and large a lot more tailored or at least sculptured, you can see elements of his earlier grungy stuff showing through in stuff like the tractor boots.

Hedi got stale but even if you don't care for Rick, you gotta respect that he's always following his own vision and he's never lost it.

[Anonymous No.14202664]

>>14202630

>Offering discount versions (drkshadow) of your own line is a recipe for bankruptcy.

What? No... it's literally one of the only ways you DO make money in high fashion. The margins on mainline Rick (and pretty much any mainline Paris brand) is terrible. Because the designs are so intricate and the materials are so expensive. The path to success for several decades now has been diffusion lines. First you build a high end exclusive brand, then you do diffusion lines and licensing contracts (perfume, sunglasses etc.). That's how you make the real money NOT the $4000 jackets that cost $3000 to make and of which you might sell a couple at half off.

Other than significantly higher margins another huge benefit of diffusion lines is you can get in so many more doors and cater to so many more customers without having to dilute your main line. On top of all this I would argue Drkshdw has been one of the best designed and managed diffusion lines of the past 10 years. Compare it to something like RAF By Raf Simons and it's pretty sad how low effort and flat out bad a lot of the diffusion lines out there are in comparison.

[Anonymous No.14202673]

>>14202664

Nothing about Drkshdw has been remotely close to a failure. However as I mentioned in my last post when you're no longer on trend it's incredibly important to reduce your visibility. Rick and his team have played this perfectly. If they stayed in as many stores as they were they just would have had everything go to 70% off. By reducing their production during a downturn in popularity they keep the brand exclusive. There's less customers so it's critical that you produce less product. The upside however is more product will sell at full price as a result. Most businesses are too short sighted to understand this. All they see is less accounts and so instead they go hyper aggressive and try to get into way more doors during a downturn and this will kill the brand.

It's a hundred times more important to know when to say no, than to know when to say yes...

Rick and his business partners have always been very measured and careful in how they manage the brand and that's why it's still alive today.

>There are way better designers out there now like orimono berlin who have much cooler dark designs.

Uh what am I looking at? This is a store in Berlin that sells Rick Owens... I'm really lost on this one.

[Anonymous No.14202680]

>>14202630
Yeah, that's just wrong. As >>14202664 said, you make money on the diffusion lines, not the mainline. As an aside, Drkshdw is almost like a sister line rather than a diffusion line. Many Drkshdw designs have not been produced for the mainline. Same goes for the material choices.

Rick and Boris are certainly not doing the same stuff over and over. Perhaps their new work is more subtle as compared to trend hoppers like Balenciaga or whatever other 'classic house' but you can see elements of current trends in Rick's recent collections as well. You see the wide Mastodon pants that echo the baggy skater inspired silhouettes everyone else had going on? The Mastodon and Tractor footwear was super on trend with the chunk factor. Anyone who follows these designers can see that there are new designs mixed in with the staples.

[Anonymous No.14202683]

>>14202673

>he wont be doing Paris shows forever,

If you're a successful Parisian designer with a 16 year track record of never missing a Paris runway show you don't just up and quit one day. He has a five storey studio in the 1st arrondissement. I don't know if you even understand how hard he's "made it" as an American designer showing in Paris. Not to mention his shows are consistently some of the most hyped and he's survived several different changes in the trends at the Paris level. If anything he'd be one of the last designers to stop showing in Paris.

>He doing the exact opposite of what high fashion is supposed to be,

>He is just doing the same shit over and over, that might be commendable, but is it not going to work in the long run.

I'm not even sure you can even begin to realize how incredibly wrong you are on this point. Playing to trends is an ultra fickle zero sum game which given enough time you will always lose. You can never always be on trend. Especially if what's on trend happens to be completely antithetical to your core aesthetic. This is why so many brands die overnight because they hop from trend to trend and they might be sucsesful for a bit but eventually it catches up to them. The people who are buying stuff that's ultra on trend are the LEAST loyal customers in the game. They will abandon you overnight if a new trend comes along and you haven't hopped on it yet.

The proven recipe for success is developing your own unique style and aesthetic and then doing it better than anyone else. That way you will never strike out. There might be times when your aesthetic is more on trend or less on trend but you play those business quarters as they come.

The longest lasting brands in the game are the ones that play the least to trends... Rick has been doing this in Paris for 16 years you have any idea how many other brands have come and gone in that span of time?

[Anonymous No.14202738]

>>14202515
56% LMAO

[Anonymous No.14202745]

>>14202640
We'll put, anon. Covered all the bases I came here to, and then some.

[Anonymous No.14202760]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrhM-8eCHks

[Anonymous No.14202835]

>>14202618
>>14202640
>>14202664
>>14202673
>>14202680
>>14202683
ITT people argue over this abomination

[Anonymous No.14202954]

>>14201891

You will never be forgotten.

[Anonymous No.14203330]

>>14202603
>2019
>not vegan
KYS

[Anonymous No.14203492]

>>14201891
Good riddance

[Anonymous No.14203518]

>>14202835
That is in every way the opposite of the look a man wants to cultivate

[Anonymous No.14203542]

>>14202954
dude looks like young al pacino

[Anonymous No.14203562]

>>14202618
>Drkshdw accounts
What does an account mean here?

[Anonymous No.14203748]

>>14202835
>Mom said that it's my turn on the xbox now.

[Anonymous No.14203778]

>>14202835
>Implying Rick is the only designer with soys
To follow ricks aesthetic perfectly, you need to be fit, rick is for meant for fit Avant Garde nerds

[Anonymous No.14203822]

>>14203562
Retailers and boutiques have "accounts" with brands and designers to stock their clothes. With some brands, there'll be different levels, where you can only stock certain products when you've built enough of a relationship with the brand. So, they were more likely in letting places open accounts letting them stock the DRKSHDW diffusion line.

[Anonymous No.14203835]

Fuck all of the sweat pant and hoodie bullshit. His tailoring and whatnot kicks ass. Same with his non basket boots.

[Anonymous No.14203838]

>>14203822
Thanks. Do the retailers pay for the clothes first? Or do they send the money after it is sold? How do sales work?

[Anonymous No.14203844]

I'll never forget when you brought me coffee's every morning, Rick.

[Anonymous No.14203972]

>>14203844
holy fuck that is the ideal body

[Anonymous No.14204190]

how do i start my own fashion line and be successful like my boy rick

[Anonymous No.14204293]

>>14203844
>>14203972
THIS. based tricky ricky

[Anonymous No.14204308]

>>14203838
After a fashion show, there's a private event for buyers where they can decide which pieces to buy. Sometimes brands can be very selective about what you can buy and define certain rules (if you buy this, you also need to buy this). You can't just start stocking Rick Owens, if you start a new store. You need to build up a reputation somehow first, because luxury brands can't often afford to be associated with shit stores, that's why you have a lot of luxury retails - brands don't like it when you sell their products alongside cheap shit.

So the buyers agree to buy certain products at this event and then they go into production. Prices are very low, compared to what the actual customer is going to pay. This is why stores often sell pieces at -50% to -70%. But no, of course the unsold products don't get sent back. And if your products always end up at sales, of course buyers won't buy your shit in the future because it means problems for their business - that's why you need to keep making fire shit. That's one reason why Rick is appreciated, such a niche but so succesful for so long. A lot of his stuff ends up at sales, but things like ramones, the pants etc. usually sell pretty well even at -40%, which I assume is still profitable for the stores.

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong

[Anonymous No.14204328]

>>14202640
This, Rick has a constant image he’s trying to project, every season there are slight evolutions to that image but at the end of the day it’s still uniquely Rick.
I’m excited as fuck for the Larry season, I can’t wait to see how Rick can twist that Glam Rock image into his own as well as the Veja sneaker collab, I wanted to buy Veja’s already but want to wait to see what Rick does with them first.

[Anonymous No.14204368]

>>14204308
This is pretty bang on, also unsold merchandise occasionally gets consolidated to other stores of the same franchise which get more foot traffic, in order to try and sell them off before they get marked as sale merchandise, where the company sells the item at cost or just above the at cost price, after that if the item still hasn’t been sold then it gets RTV’d to the vendor. Not sure if it’s like that at all companies but the one I work does this.

[Anonymous No.14205062]

>>14204308
Very neat information. Anything else you could say about all this, especially high fashion or niche brands like Rick?

[Anonymous No.14205246]

>>14203778
>>14203844
>>14204293
>>14203972
>holy fuck that is the ideal body
He's pretty slim for a long time steroid user.

[sieg No.14205256]

rick owens ccp goof-ninja looks is extremely dated

it would possibly been a little different in 2008 when everything was dadcore

but if you wore rick anything today

it would be pretty sad

even the leather jackets are dated

mmm 5zip from that era is passable but nothing rick nothing ccp

[Anonymous No.14205518]

>>14205256
you look like this, you really think people are going to take your opinion seriously?

[arthoe No.14205534]

I wish evryone would forget me

[Anonymous No.14205577]

>>14205062
If you have university email, you can get business of fashion professional for free (normally 18$/month). Great archive of actually good articles and lots of information, exclusive interviews from the likes of slimane who very very rarely give anything out of themselves out to the public. Give it a go, personally don't have anything else that comes to mind

[Anonymous No.14205592]

>>14205246
just means he's on low doses, not everybody who roids wants to become a mass monster.

[Anonymous No.14205985]

Is there a Rick documentary worth watching?

[Anonymous No.14205990]

>>14205985

Literally every video there is of him is worth watching his voice is silky smooth

[Anonymous No.14205991]

>>14205246
>He's pretty slim for a long time steroid user.
good. also dude is in 50s give him a break. hes probably on legal trt

[Anonymous No.14206887]

>>14205990
Yeah but I was hoping there was something longer that covers the start and progression of Rick in the industry

[Anonymous No.14208356]

>>14206887
First phrase: Wants men to hear heels, get fit and wear slim fit
Second phrase: Wears exagratted oversized shoes + pod function as skirt.
Third phrase: Adidas Sock Runner as replacement for heels, pod still function as skirt
Fourth phrase: lol i do it for money