/wt/ - Watch Thread, Tudor free edition

[Anonymous No.13487203]

This thread is about the appreciation of watches, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required viewing for new people:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9E65KfMwTqY

>Used watch guide:
https://pastebin.com/f44aJKy2

> Strap guide:
http://pastebin.com/SwRysprE

> watch essentials 102:
http://pastebin.com/Rc77hhXV

Old thread: >>13483502

[Anonymous No.13487209]

[Anonymous No.13487218]

T R A N S I S T O R

[Anonymous No.13487219]

>>13487218
How rare are these and how much did you pay?

[Anonymous No.13487222]

>>13487219
I don't own one. They are very rare. This one has replacement coils cannibalized from am accutron so is not as desirable. I would expect a working Slava Transistor in good order and original condition could sell for well over 1k USD but not 100% sure. Anecdotally the coils in these go even more commonly than the ones in accutrons, and unlike accutrons, getting original replacements is impossible. They were not made very long, as it was impossible for them to make the index wheel with the required precision with the subway so close by.

[Anonymous No.13487226]

[Anonymous No.13487228]

Why are there 2 fucking threads?

Is Auguste Reymond legit? I don't think it can be that great because quartz.

I have a couple other kickstarter watches, but they were cheap and didn't have a logo on the face, which I prefer. The Auguste Reymond looks kinda like Filippo Loreti which is a scam brand.

[Anonymous No.13487229]

>>13487209
what and where

[Anonymous No.13487230]

>>13487228
>I don't think it can be that great because quartz.
Oh dear

[Anonymous No.13487232]

>>13487222
Thats pretty interesting actually.
Soviets copied all watch tech and most tech in general.

[Anonymous No.13487236]

>>13487228
>trusting kickstarter microbrands
Quartz is the least of your worries. In fact, quartz is harder to fuck up and is cheaper, making the chance of success higjer.

[Anonymous No.13487240]

reminder that it's still ok to like Tudor, just... quietly...

[Anonymous No.13487248]

>>13487240
Nice scratches, was the watch included in the price?

[Anonymous No.13487252]

>>13487248
the watch was included with my tuition

[Anonymous No.13487258]

>>13487228
>Is Auguste Reymond legit?
No. It's a bought up old name being used to hawk cheaply made watches to non-watch people who don't know any better.

[Anonymous No.13487260]

>>13487236
I have a linjer off of kickstarter which I like because it doesn't have any logo on the face

[Anonymous No.13487276]

Post some old stuff

[Anonymous No.13487281]

>>13487276
How old? 1967 old enough?

[Anonymous No.13487283]

[Anonymous No.13487284]

>>13487276
I think this is a 1950s piece.

[Anonymous No.13487286]

>>13487281
That is a pretty strap desu. W2C?

[Anonymous No.13487287]

>>13487203
are there any /wt/ approved microbrands? if no, why not?

[Anonymous No.13487292]

>>13487276

>>13487281
All right, here's something I've always wanted to know, how are linen dials actually made?

[Anonymous No.13487293]

>>13487286
it's just a brown perlon strap. you can get those at a ton of places

[Anonymous No.13487297]

>>13487286
It's an Eulit Palma perlon strap.

[Anonymous No.13487299]

>>13487229
Seiko Wired AGAM601

Limited to 2500 units, very limited

[Anonymous No.13487301]

>>13487287
Mercer is okay. So is Melbourne, Aevig, Lew and Huey, obris Morgan, halios, Vaguer Hauers, probably some others.

[Anonymous No.13487305]

>>13487287
Roger W. Smith

[Anonymous No.13487308]

>>13487299
>2500 units, very limited
Hmm

[Anonymous No.13487309]

>>13487276
Ok.

[Anonymous No.13487311]

>>13487309
Are those hands original? They look pretty stubby but that could just be how they were - my poljot de luxe homage also had a short seconds hand (though not quite so short)

[Anonymous No.13487316]

>>13487276
This is a little old

[Anonymous No.13487318]

>>13487309
Yay, De Luxe bro!

[Anonymous No.13487323]

>>13487316
Some of omega's creepier marketing

[Anonymous No.13487338]

Well, at least the mods said that their decision was not due to Tudor's mess.

[Anonymous No.13487343]

>>13487323
I have the feeling that the designers just wanted to make a cool looking egg watch and then the coked up marketing department came up with the idea that it was supposed to be ergonomic and made up a bunch of shit.

[Anonymous No.13487344]

>>13487338
They lied. They're too lazy to do their jobs so the did what the tantruming child wanted.

[Anonymous No.13487345]

>>13487338
No Rakesh, mods are pussified lazy faggots who used a cop out excuse. /wt/ was just fine for years until you came along and shat it up.

[Anonymous No.13487346]

>>13487338
Kill yourself you perma-BTFO'd faggot.

[Anonymous No.13487349]

>>13487344
>>13487345
>>13487346
I'm not Rakesh btw. I'm just reading the message they posted.

[Anonymous No.13487352]

>>13487343
Yeah, I'd tend to agree with that. It was certainly pretty uncomfortable on my wrist when I tried one on.

[Anonymous No.13487353]

>>13487338
Threads that mods allow on /g/ while /wt/ gets exiled:
>/csg/
>/hpt/
>TV
>battlestation
>/ptg/
>/ag/
>YLYL
>/mkg/
If /wt/ is not tech enough then how are the others? Could it just be mods are lazy and Tudorfag is a whiny autist who threw a fit until he got what he wanted?

[Anonymous No.13487359]

If you guys want to justifiably bitch about the removal of /wt/ from /g/, there is a thread on /qa/ about it. Would link but I’m in mobile and it’s a major pain in the ass.

[Anonymous No.13487366]

>>13487353
The theme of /g/ is computers-tech, cellphone and tv-tech, and those kinds of things, am I right?
>battlestation
That is related to computers, very relevant to /g/
>TV is same thing, it's the right type of tech that is themed on /g/

I don't know what those other generals you posted are, desu.

[Anonymous No.13487368]

Reminder that impulse-buying is still shameful, even if it was only like ten dollarydoos.

[Anonymous No.13487372]

>>13487366
From the /g/ sticky:
>/g/ is for the discussion of technology and related topics.
Explain how the intricate workings of watches are not technology.

[Anonymous No.13487374]

>>13487368
Impulse buying is great, you shut your whore mouth.

[Anonymous No.13487377]

>>13487368
I've just started impulse buying straps, at least then I don't need to service them.

[Anonymous No.13487378]

>>13487372
Yeah, I Know but I thought that it's generally understood that /g/ is not all kinds of technology.

[Anonymous No.13487379]

>>13487368
Also saw this in a fancy old folks home. They have something like a cigar-room, where most of the furniture and stuff is vintage. Like there was an old wooden-case transistor radio, and above it was this quartz Yantar. Didn't take it off the wall though, to see if it still has the original movement.

[Anonymous No.13487386]

What about cool clocks? They don't have to be mechanical.

[Anonymous No.13487393]

>>13487378
Hard to generally understand that when the sticky explicitly mentions technology without differentiating.

[Anonymous No.13487401]

[Anonymous No.13487405]

>>13487393
I mean, I'm not arguing that /wt/ does not belong, or that the sticky is wrong. I'm just saying that 99.9% of all threads are about computer tech, and cellphones, and that sort of technology, so I always assumed that this was the theme of that board, and that by "technology" they really meant that type of stuff. Not literally all types of technology like paper-creation and book printing and about car-wheels etc. If we assume that people are having that understanding, then that is probably why so many think that /wt/ does not belong.

[Anonymous No.13487409]

>>13487386
Clocks are harder to hoard than watches. Also most clocks have shit-tier internals.

[Anonymous No.13487415]

>>13487386
Worldtimer clock with electric, hairspring movement.

[Anonymous No.13487440]

>>13487401
>not posting the fixed version

[Anonymous No.13487444]

This is by far the best sundial design. The vertical arm can be turned by hand until the shadow of the notch aligns with the current month in the analemma. The hands then point to the time. Thus, as long as you know which half of the year it is, the sundial tells both time and date.

[Anonymous No.13487456]

>>13487440
It's not fixed, it still says "calenders".

[Anonymous No.13487475]

Looking for a cheap solar powered analouge watch

[Anonymous No.13487478]

>>13487203
The collection.

[Anonymous No.13487484]

>>13487478
Rip the best wt collection

[Anonymous No.13487485]

>>13487484

[Anonymous No.13487493]

>>13487409
Well, I found one with a sweeping quartz hand and now I'm wondering what people have thought of when they aren't restrained to a wrist.

[Anonymous No.13487500]

>>13487493
Smooth-sweep quartz is a lot easier to do if you're not constrained by a watch battery.

[Anonymous No.13487503]

Reminder.

[Anonymous No.13487508]

>>13487503
The Tudor would be perfect if it didn't have that ugly Minecraft-esque hand set.

>tfw even the Chinese don't make all-out copies of the iconic Bond Submariner

[Anonymous No.13487511]

What's the most bang for your buck automatic/handwind?

[Anonymous No.13487517]

>>13487503
The BB58 is going to be one of the best value watches on the market at $3,500 when it's released.

[Anonymous No.13487524]

>>13487517
Doesn't say Rolex on it though.

[Anonymous No.13487529]

>>13487511
Rolex OP

[Anonymous No.13487530]

>guys lets make a pretty nice gmt
>also lets make the gmt hand 2mm too long so it looks fucking shit and ruins the watch

[Anonymous No.13487537]

Thinking about getting a Junghans Meister Kalender.

[Anonymous No.13487545]

>>13487530
GMTs are so useless.
Jesus just add or subtract the hours.

[Anonymous No.13487546]

>>13487524
The kind of people for whom that would be an issue are not the target market for the BB58 anyway.

[Anonymous No.13487563]

>>13487511
Orient star

[Anonymous No.13487579]

What brands make a watch with a more "playful" look that are higher quality than a swatch but cheaper than a nomos?

[Anonymous No.13487609]

silicon hairspring in a new 2236

[Anonymous No.13487618]

>>13487609
Neat. What's going on with that big... something on the balance bridge?

[Anonymous No.13487631]

>>13487618
the big brass coin lookin thing on top of the bridge is the adjustment for the new mobile stud holder. the stud holder is the blue crescent piece around the right side of the coils. the brass piece on top rotates that whole blue arm that the hairspring stud sits in

[Anonymous No.13487639]

>>13487517
>$3500
>value
You cucks are delusional.

[Anonymous No.13487644]

>>13487631
Wild. Certainly sounds more convenient than the usual design. Thanks for posting anon

[Anonymous No.13487651]

>>13487639
>posts his shitizen quartz
Anyone got that copypasta of the guy who shits up a high-end deskop thread with a $200 laptop?

[Anonymous No.13487652]

>>13487639
You want to fix my mega for me? Almost ready to give up and get another one.

[Anonymous No.13487662]

>>13487639
It's the only free sprung balance, balance bridge, silicon hairspring movement watch with very good external finishing at that price point.

Damasko has models a bit cheaper but no balance bridge, and they are aesthetically challenging. Otherwise, that Tudor is the only game in town below $4k I think.

[Anonymous No.13487671]

>>13487644
more convenient in that there's less risk of damage to adjust the beat. less convenient in that you need the Rolex tool

[Anonymous No.13487676]

>>13487652
No, find someone else. I still don't have a quartz timegrapher.

[Anonymous No.13487678]

>>13487484
>>13487485
God damn I've been looking for an Omega Chronostop.

[Anonymous No.13487689]

>>13487678
They're neat, I suppose.

[Anonymous No.13487719]

>>13487203
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Zp-2dwBYhA

[Anonymous No.13487721]

>>13487311
Yeah, I'm pretty sure they are. Most if not all of 2209 dress watches had second hand just slightly hitting hour markers.
>>13487318
Nice, my man.

[Anonymous No.13487726]

>>13487508
>what are aftermarket hand sets

[Anonymous No.13487729]

>>13487721
>>13487311
The hands, especially the seconds hand is that short because they wanted to really make it a low profile watch, any longer and it would stick between the crystal and the dial in the original design.

[Anonymouse !!Zm5B+VbnpWf No.13487742]

>>13487631
>>13487618
>>13487609
whoa whoa whoa, this is a fashion board, take your conversations to /g/ please

[Anonymous No.13487746]

>>13487530
>what is having a skilled Tudor trained watchmaker shorten the hand by 2mm for $50

[Anonymous No.13487759]

>BaselWorld '18
>Tudor Realeses new Cermaic Cased Black Bay
>38.5mm

>ceramic case Black Bay 58
>post a better watch than this
(((Top-Gear Top Tip: You Cannot, and will NOT)))

[Anonymous No.13487762]

>>13487759
that is an absolutely beautiful piece, pure-class, yet casual. The true bond tool-watch with a dash of luxury. All it needs is the accuracy of a quartz movement and this would be the end-all of watches. Literally every man worth his salted owuld wear this and thats that. Beautiful.

[Anonymous No.13487764]

>>13487742
>implying watch movements aren't effay af
literally jewelry

[Anonymous No.13487765]

>>13487762
yeah, it's really the best tool-watch. Literally impossible to scrape unless it's up against diamond. I can't believe no one was talking about this release after Basel. 20x better than the Tudor GMT-Cuckmaster Coaxial for $4.5k

[Anonymous No.13487771]

>>13487374
>Orient Ray blue dial
MUH DICK

[Anonymous No.13487775]

How shit is my collection?

[Anonymous || Mod No.13487776]

>>13487742
I don't know why the fumbduck mods over at neckbeard central sent the thread over here but I have a bone to pick with them, there is clearly technological content being posted and it needs to stay fashion oriented here or i WILL ban you.

[Anonymous No.13487781]

>>13487775
>left
pure ghastly, my friend. Go reach around Daniel Beef Wellington while you're at it
>middle
best of the three, wouldn't spend more than $100 on it though
>right
Roman Numerals are disgusting, its ((the current century)), and arguably Roman Numerals were out of fashion last century too. Get with the times. Aracbix>all

[Anonymous No.13487787]

>>13487240
nice tattoo, degenerate

[Anonymous No.13487789]

>>13487759
blacked out looks so tacky. reminds me of ricer fags who plastikote their entire car black

[Anonymous No.13487791]

This is an accutron 2210, the worst tuning fork movement design ever. Enjoy the worm gears(!) in the bottom left. Bulova had to use this technology as a little "gearbox" to gear down the index wheel, given the size of the case and the size of the battery.

[Anonymous No.13487792]

>>13487530
the idea is that it's pointing to the bezel

[Anonymous No.13487797]

>>13487781
Roman numerals can look good but only when used appropriately. Black on white, simple face, the right sort of hands.

[Anonymous No.13487799]

>>13487349
>I'm not Rakesh btw.
that's exactly what he would say

[Anonymous No.13487800]

>>13487791
>worm gears
cool

[Anonymous No.13487802]

>>13487789
post watches

[Anonymous No.13487803]

>>13487791
Here's the movement from the back. The tuning fork curves all the way around the battery and is super thin. The nice thing about this movement is the fork frequency - it's a perfect 440hz, concert A natural. Quite a few musicians ended up wearing these to tune their instruments.

[Anonymous No.13487805]

>>13487781
What is wrong with the left one?

[Anonymous No.13487807]

>>13487797
>Roman numerals can look good but only when used appropriately.

[Anonymous No.13487809]

>>13487803
Compare to the 2302. This was the other ladies size tuning fork movement. In this case they used the little "rabbit ears" fork to avoid taking up too much space. The fork frequency was bumped to 480hz as a result.

[Anonymous No.13487811]

>>13487792
it's a dumb idea

[Anonymous No.13487814]

>>13487809
You can see the index pawls here in the lower left. You can also see the single coil under the fork - this watch did away with the double coil design that you could see on the 2210, to save yet more space.

[Anonymous No.13487818]

>>13487805
Boring, minimalist design. You look like a phaggot sheep who buys Daniel Beef Wellington watches if you are caught wearing one in public

[Anonymous No.13487821]

>>13487814
The 2210 (far right) didn't even have a second hand, to save yet more space - as far as I know it is the only tuning fork movement that never had a model with a second hand.

[Anonymous No.13487823]

>>13487821
Tuning fork movements of the time made an effort to have every technical feature, even into the early quartz period, as they were very high-end watches. The Omega megasonic, for example, includes a very fast instant day and date change.

[Anonymous No.13487828]

I just bought an SKX009k2 from Long Island Watches

Only did USPS priority, kinda wish i spent the xtra on overnight

[Anonymous No.13487835]

Is this good?

[Anonymous No.13487837]

>>13487818
Oh, I like the minimal watch face for if I have to wear formal clothes

[Anonymous No.13487842]

>>13487823
Thanks for all the infoposts, appreciate them.

[Anonymous No.13487843]

>>13487726
True, but I'd prefer a 3000+ dollar watch to look good right out of the box. Tinkering around with mods is something shitter owners do.

[Anonymous No.13487851]

>>13487837
>for if I have to wear formal clothes
how much did it cost?

[Anonymous No.13487854]

>>13487851
Like $160

[Anonymous No.13487855]

when should I stop winding on a hand wound? online everything says "when there is resistance" but I can feel resistance like 5 turns in and that's only a few hours of power. I don't want to force it and break something but I'm confused

[Anonymous No.13487859]

>>13487843
i pity the sad excuse of a man who leaves others to do work for his desired result

[Anonymous No.13487863]

>>13487855
it will stop. unless it's super antique you'll break the crown before anything else

[Anonymous No.13487865]

>>13487859
You must be busy what with wiring your house, fixing your car, modding your watch and soldering your own motherboard together from scrap metal.

[Anonymous No.13487867]

>>13487863
okay thanks. I'll keep turning it slowly, I guess I'm just being overly cautious with ir

[Anonymous No.13487868]

>>13487854
You can get a nice Seiko 5 mechanical dress watch for $100. Or if you weren't a complete poorpheg you could buy a SARB033 for marginally more money. Looks better than that hipster piece of shit. Might as well wear a bracelet that looks better than that watch because there is no use for that watch besides fashion. Fucking normie.

[Anonymous No.13487873]

>>13487855
If your watch is from 1960 or later you will not break it. Wind until you can not wind it any further without hurting your fingers.

[Anonymous No.13487874]

>>13487537
oh thanks! I hate when I forget which month curently is!

[Anonymous No.13487881]

>>13487662
Too bad the entire brand is hamstrung by their horrible and dull design choices.
>spending 3000 on a Submariner for poor people
No thanks. Let me know when they come up with an original and aesthetically appealing creation.

[Anonymous No.13487882]

Is Swiss Military Hanowa good brand? Is this kind of strap better than leather?

[Anonymous No.13487885]

>>13487865
>he thinks fixing his car and home are things you can't do on your own

I'm not even a boomer but I agree with them on this point. You should be able to do these things, they aren't special or hard to do. You're just fucking lazy. Stand aside and let a real man steal your money to repair something instead of learning something new and taking the time to do something better yourself. It's because low-life losers like to lease and rent because they are frightened by responsibility.

Not to say that there are some things out of reach like laying down internet cable for your neighborhood, but fixing your own car and house? How do you survive if you can't do this on your own, or at least have the ability to? These are basic skills that just a generation ago every man worth his weight could do. Pathetic. I bet you spend $100+ on oil changes and get scammed.

[Anonymous No.13487886]

>>13487882

[Anonymous No.13487899]

>>13487865
is this bait? i bet you are sheltered and live in a city because those are normal things to do, save the motherboard bit unless you are an enthusiast

t. UK cuckold

[Anonymous No.13487905]

Can anyone explain to me why I would ever want a non-vintage Hamilton? Been seeing more posted than usual.
Is it just for the ascetics?
I understand wanting an old American made one, I know some anon here has two and they look neat.

[Anonymous No.13487910]

>>13487868
Then it says seiko on it and I prefer no name on the face. Also I fucking hate the metal watch bands

SARB033

Looks ugly as shit

[Anonymous No.13487912]

>>13487885
>>13487899
>oil change
Yes that is what I meant. Not dealing with the transmission or realigning axles. Same with the house, I assume you hand-built any and all extensions? Wired everything yourself, put in water and gas mains? Certain tasks are better left to professionals, such as the above and watchmaking. Assuming you do have the ability, time and tools to do one of the above I doubt you have it for everything. Point is eventually you will call someone in who is better at something than you. When I drop $3k+ on a watch I am not going to dick around modding it just as I would not attempt a suspension overhaul or constructing a new new room entirely on my own.

[Anonymous No.13487918]

>>13487905
If you want a modern mechanical movement, given the sarbs are gone, modern Hamilton with an ETA 2824, ETA 2801, or ETA 2892 are efficient, price wise.

[Anonymous No.13487922]

>>13487912
Nice to know we have female or gender fluid kin on /wt/ now

[Anonymous No.13487924]

Yes you may have a nice watch, my man, but do you got wristgame?

[Anonymous No.13487929]

>>13487918
SARBs are still around. ~$500 on amazon, can still find them in Japan at ~$300 if you search, but not online.

[Anonymous No.13487930]

>>13487929
But at 500 you can get a 2892 in a Hamilton, let alone a 2824.

[Anonymous No.13487931]

>>13487924
Fucking kek

[Anonymous No.13487932]

Two questions for people in the know.

1. How does Hamilton hold up these days? I know they were innovators and well respected at one point. I have a very old pocket watch passed down to me from my great grandfather and I wanted to see if it was worth it to get something more modern.

2. Any suggestion for a good aviation watch? (pilot here)

[Anonymous No.13487934]

>>13487924
broooo
10/10

[Anonymous No.13487939]

>>13487934
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RELOJ-SEIKO-5-7009-AUTOMATICO-PARA-HOMBRE-DIA-Y-FECHA/263784558020

Bid or not? How much should I bid max?

[Anonymous No.13487940]

>>13487932
What kind of aviation watch do you want? Modern with slide rules, chronos, gadgets, etc? WW2 flieger throwback with an A or B dial? What kind of budget are you looking to work with?

As far as Hamilton goes, they still command a decent reputation with regards to offering value in the $500-$1000 range over comparable options. They are not the same company they were as an American manufacturer however.

[Anonymous No.13487942]

>>13487932
Modern Hamilton has actually zero relation to pre-swagch Hamilton besides the name. Even in the 1960s they were using swiss ebauches. That said, old Hamiltons (up through the 30s) were right up with Illinois Watch Co for top-tier American manufacturers. An old pocket watch should fix up nicely.

Modern Hamilton, that said, is the most accessible point for basic ETA movements, which are quite good at that price. A Hamilton khaki watch might be a good fit (no clue what you mean by an "aviation watch" but I assume you mean highly legible, if not flieger or sliderule, so a field watch might do). Most people, including me, would advise you to skip the new powermatic movement and get a hand wind khaki or the older model with the 2824.

[Anonymous No.13487948]

>>13487932
>I have a very old pocket watch passed down to me from my great grandfather
Post it.

[Anonymous No.13487950]

What type of man you need to be when you want to wear this with confidency?

[Anonymous No.13487952]

>>13487950
A fuckin/g/ no taste retard

[Anonymous No.13487954]

>>13487950
A man with no taste I assume. Diesel might be the goofiest of the goofy.

[Anonymous No.13487956]

>>13487950

[Anonymous No.13487968]

>>13487954
I love that cheap model except for the roman numbers.
Too bad it’s no version 1.

[Anonymous No.13487970]

>>13487905
They’re well priced with solid ETA movements and some of their designs are quite good (and many are total shit). Still they’re frequently on deep discount so you can pick one up for a couple hundred bucks.

[Anonymous No.13487975]

>>13487939
$30 max
Any more and you may as well scrounge up a few twenties to get a new one

[Anonymous No.13487981]

>>13487835
nice clock ahmed, come show me in the white house

[Anonymous No.13487987]

>>13487968
I don't mind the Roman numerals on it, only watch I've ever owned with them. REALLY would like one without the date but unfortunately they don't offer that. Received my first two ventures into Orient yesterday after years of putting them off, pretty impressive given both can be found in the $140ish range.

I'm a sucker for cheap Jap movements that offer good bang for buck though.

[Anonymous No.13487988]

>>13487940
Well aside from aesthetic I really don't know how much I would want to use the tools built into a watch. The flight instruments are really what you use...even for watch capable items like fuel. You can figure it out pretty easily. Maybe it would be better to go for a rolex or something fashionable? I think it would be cool to homage to the hamilton pocket watch but I don't know.

>>13487948
I'm out of country right now, but this is pretty close to it. The one I have is silver however

[Anonymous No.13487994]

>>13487771
Obviously a cheap sub-$150 watch, but I'll be damned if it doesn't look, perform and feel like a watch double or triple its price.

Picture related is really making my penis move as of late. Have been planning on getting a Laco B dial Aachen soon, really want the more traditional black dial, but this thing is calling me.

I wish to God they would make the cheaper Aachens without the logo but you've gotta go up to their $1000+ models to get that, which is by design I'm sure.

[Anonymous No.13487997]

>>13487956
Oh yes! Compass and thermometer. Everyday Im like where is south? and with my coworker we are always arguing if its 22°C or 25°C. Really watches for me..

[Anonymous No.13487998]

Thinking this will be my next purchase.

[Anonymous No.13488002]

>>13487988
I mean these days you are correct, everything you need, even in single engine props is easily accessible in the cockpit, some guys really like having the cool aviator features on their wrist still.

If you are willing to spend the money a Rolex or Omega chrono would be a great cockpit accessory that commands respect and looks good. If you want to pay homage to the pilots of yesteryear a flieger is always a welcome cockpit addition.

Hamilton makes some very cool looking hybrids in their khaki pilot line that are worth looking at as well.

Breitling gets shit on by a lot of /wt/ enthusiasts, but they still make excellent watches and also have that long relatively long aviator history to accompany them.

Figure out what you are willing to spend first and then move on to narrowing down the selection(s) from there.

[Anonymous No.13488005]

>>13487988
Checked
When you get home post pics of the actual watch. Vintage pocket watches are fantastic finds

[Anonymous No.13488008]

>>13487918
>>13487970
ETA though. Not really feeling that.
Guess they aren't for me.
My collection is in in under $400 range and over $2000. Nothing in between, besides vintage, but their prices are all over.

[Anonymous No.13488014]

>>13488008
ETA movements are perfectly good movements. The object of your disdain should be companies like iwc, breitling, etc. putting ETA movements that belong in $500 watches into watches that they charge $5k for.

[Anonymous No.13488019]

>>13488008
There is nothing wrong with ETA movements especially at that price point. Give me a reliable ETA over some cheap shit in-house movement that makes servicing a disaster any day of the week.

[Anonymous No.13488023]

>>13487932
Something GMT might not be a terrible idea. They were actually designed for pilots, the point of the GMT hand is to have a constant Zulu time reference on your wrist. They're probably the only aviation-related complication/feature that's actually useful and doesn't get in the way of everyday use or readability. If you're already considering Rolex, it's pretty hard to go wrong with one of their GMTs.

What do you fly, BTW?

[Anonymous No.13488027]

>>13488005
I will definitely.

>>13488002
Thanks for the info. I like some of the khaki hamilton watches and I'm just starting to research what watches I really like. My favourite watch I own is a movado, so that shows how complicated my faces can be.

Why do people shit on breitling? Are they considered gaudy, or are the people that buy them typecasted?

[Anonymous No.13488030]

>>13488027
Namely like >>13488014 mentioned, they've put cheaper movements in watches that still command a $5,000+ price. End of the day with any luxury brand you are getting taxed for the name on the dial regardless of how well made some luxury movements are.

[Anonymous No.13488035]

>>13488019
>>13488023
No, I get that. I'm just not really into anything at that price.
I have my vintages, then I have my $400 and lower, which, worst comes to worst, I just buy another, and then high end.
I'd rather save and get something higher end, or just go cheap. Nothing in the middle interests me personally, kind of a why bother price. Then then ETA on top, not for me.

[Anonymous No.13488036]

>>13488023
Cessna 185 and DHC-3 otter

I would really like to move up to bigger and bigger planes but one step at a time

[Anonymous No.13488038]

>>13487823
That's beautiful. What would you recommend for a daily driver that's available in quartz flavor and doesn't get frowned upon by my cocky skx-wearing peers? I've been wearing a G-shock mudman for the past five years and while I love it to bits it's ugly as fuck. I've been eyeing the refurbished Bulovas off ebay but I'm sure there are other options as well.

[Anonymous No.13488039]

>>13488027
>Why do people shit on breitling?
It's a combination of their truly horrific design and their overpriced watches with basic movements. They do have some good stuff - the super quartz is an excellent quartz movement and the B01 is a good movement as well. By and large though their reputation is deserved.

[Anonymous No.13488043]

>>13488038
I'm assuming you're looking for something affordable.

>>13488035
So get a skydweller

[Anonymous No.13488063]

>>13487765
Yeah, until you learn the hard way that the price of scratch resistance is brittleness. Chipping or shattering a case would be pretty unfun.

[Anonymous No.13488064]

>>13488043
>so get a sky dweller
Don't love how it looks.
My next big purchase will be this.
Not for a while though. I don't even need a new watch.

[Anonymous No.13488066]

>>13487791
>>13487803
>>13487809
>>13487814
>>13487821
>>13487823
Thanks for these informative posts.

[Anonymous No.13488069]

>>13487881
Clearly it will shock you to learn that your personal aesthetic preferences are not universal truths. For instance, I would buy an in-house Pelagos over a Sub even if they were the same price.

[Anonymous No.13488072]

>>13488038
>>13488043
> Didn't even post the right screenshot
Oops. Well, there's a bunch of discussion around the zo342 silicon oscillator for those who are interested, I guess.

[Anonymous No.13488077]

>>13488027
>Why do people shit on breitling?
In addition to the other reasons mentioned, the machining and finishing of their cases, bracelets, dials and hands is very mediocre for the price point.

[Anonymous No.13488089]

>>13488035
OP for those two questions here. Did you mean to quote another post?

[Anonymous No.13488091]

>>13488030
>>13488039

How can you discern a good movement from a bad? Is there a video describing this? How is Rolex so much better than Breitling? I know this is basic bitch stuff to aficionados out there but some help would be lovely.

[Anonymous No.13488109]

>>13488069
The Pelagos is inferior in basically every quantifiable way. That’s quite a strange stance. Are you by chance tudorfag?

[Anonymous No.13488113]

Is there somewhere to buy decent pre-owned rolex or other high end watches?

[Anonymous No.13488120]

>>13488091
I rely on what people more versed in the mechanics of it all have to say. My level of discernment is finding out what movement a watch has, then doing some research between google and youtube to find what experts or people otherwise more competent on the matter have to say about how it works, its accuracy and any other viable metrics/details.

[Anonymous No.13488126]

>>13488091
A modern Rolex movement uses a silicon hairspring to extend the power reserve and avoid magnetization and temperature dependence on rate. It has a full balance bridge to add stability to the balance staff for increased shock resistance (both from an accuracy perspective and a breakage perspective). It has a free-sprung balance, which will have better positional variance properties since there aren't regulator pins to interfere with the hairspring. Rolex watches are guaranteed to perform at +/-2spd on the wrist, the second tightest mean rate guarantee for a hairspring-regulaged movement in history (patek tourbillons, at 50x to 100x the price, achieve -2/+1). I believe Rolex has also extended their recommended service intervals to 10 years.

[Anonymous No.13488134]

>>13488109
>The Pelagos is inferior in basically every quantifiable way.
I disagree. The titanium case and bracelet are twice as strong as steel ones would be, the silicon hairspring, free sprung, balance bridge movement is at least as good as a 313x and and the matte looks aid legibility. I'll concede that Tudor's ratchet clasp is apparently not in the same league as the Rolex glide lock though.

>Are you by chance tudorfag?
Hell no.

[Anonymous No.13488137]

I want to talk about the new vintage omega chronograph but this doesnt feel like the correct place to talk about it.

[Anonymous No.13488142]

>>13488137
Why?

I don't care for the oversized case, though ibvuously they didn't have a choice. The dial styling, again, not my preference. I do really appreciate the refurbishment of the movements on period-appropriate machines; I'd love to hear more about that.

[Anonymous No.13488157]

>>13488142
The idea of taking an old movement and upgrading the parts is interesting to me. Also it says that they use black polishing which is interesting and against what a lot of the shitposters will have you believe.
Though this is a fashion thread so looks is all that matters and it's not a pretty watch.

[Anonymous No.13488159]

>>13488137
Give it up man, we're not going back to /g/ anytime soon. Those mods are turbo faggots.

[Anonymous No.13488161]

>>13488089
Yeah, I meant to quote the 2 talking about the ETA.

[Anonymous No.13488162]

>>13488137
This is where you'll have to talk about it now. Don't worry, this thread is mostly occupied by /g/entlemen anyway.

[Anonymous No.13488172]

>>13488157
>upgrading the parts
Were they upgrading significant parts of the movement (hairspring and balance material, shock protection, etc.)? That's interesting - I hadn't seen that, do you have details on what they're replacing?

[Anonymous No.13488186]

Post lume

[Anonymous No.13488197]

>>13488186

[Anonymous No.13488202]

>>13488172
Sounds like mainly the jewels to modern ones and then adjusting the gears to fit better.
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/first-omega-wrist-chronograph-limited-edition-1918-introducing
>Two important steps in working with the original calibers 18 CHRO were the addition of modern jeweling for the going and chronograph trains, and a careful analysis of the wheels for both trains as well.
It sounds like they also adjust everything to modern tolerances.

[Anonymous No.13488214]

>>13488186
T R I T I U M

[Anonymous No.13488218]

So here's an /fa/ tier question:
Metal...

[Anonymous No.13488221]

>>13488218
...or NATO as seen: >>13488002

[Anonymous No.13488223]

>>13487209
I've got an original g757, wear it every day

[Anonymous No.13488225]

Is it a bad idea to order an automatic seiko diver from some Hong Kong warehouse shitter when the price is like $90 lower than every other site?

[Anonymous No.13488231]

>>13488134
This post reads like someone who just overdosed on Tudor marketing material. Are you a paid shill or just someone who really likes Lady Gaga? Are you seriously arguing that the Tudor Pelagos is superior in materials, construction, and movement to a Rolex Submariner at 1/3 of the cost?

[Anonymous No.13488242]

>>13488202
100% onboard with switching to modern jeweling (presumably that means friction-fit?), and hopefully they've included modern shock protectionion in that. The potential adjustments to the wheels is more interesting; I wonder if that just means they've replaced the wheels with entirely new ones that happen to fit the same bridges.

[Anonymous No.13488251]

>>13488218
The dial is too busy to be dressy and it also fits too large on your wrist. The metal bracelet doesn't look to fit well eiyher. nato

[Anonymous No.13488254]

>>13488231
Feel free to try again when (You) have some substantive arguments.

[Anonymous No.13488255]

>>13488186

[Anonymous No.13488263]

>>13488251
I don’t mind the dial. It actually looks better than mine.
Mine has lots of reflective tiny squares which make the reading difficult.

[Anonymous No.13488264]

>>13488157
>Also it says that they use black polishing which is interesting and against what a lot of the shitposters will have you believe.
Well, I don't doubt they used black polishing and anglage on this project, but I would suggest that it is highly unlikely the people involved in that work got their paychecks from Omega. There are parts of the Swatch Group that produce haute horlogerie tier watches after all.

[Anonymous No.13488271]

[Anonymous No.13488272]

>>13488202
This is a super interesting article and a super interesting special edition. Thanks for sharing.

[Anonymous No.13488280]

>>13488186

[Anonymous No.13488296]

>>13488186

[Anonymous No.13488306]

>>13488271
archie is less than a poorfag though he's an indebted uber driver

[Anonymous No.13488315]

>>13488306
isn't he going to prison too

[Anonymous No.13488320]

>>13488315
>free food
>free rent
>cared for by the system
lamo scrubs not living the baller life

[Anonymous No.13488326]

>>13488218
Not a big fan of the watch itself, but I definitely think the NATO works better. The bracelet makes it look a lot cheaper and more mallwatch-y than it does on the NATO.

[Anonymous No.13488327]

>>13488271
Archie isn't chad or even the chad of watches 2bh.

[Anonymous No.13488328]

>>13488186
I really need to set up my tripod and take a better pic at some point.

[Anonymous No.13488334]

>>13488113
seconded

[Anonymous No.13488336]

>>13488251
Savage yet thoughtful input.

>>13488326
My thoughts as well regarding the band, appreciate the input.

[Anonymous No.13488351]

>>13488186

[Anonymous No.13488368]

>>13488186

[Anonymous No.13488372]

>>13488186
L U M E

[Anonymous No.13488373]

>>13488336
morning flieger bro

[Anonymous No.13488375]

FLIEGER
..U
..M
..E

[Anonymous No.13488378]

>>13488373
Afternoon better flieger bro. Glad the Aristo could hold me over for now, but the date REALLY damn kills it. Trying to decide who I'm getting a B dial from next. Is yours that micro-ish brand one that was like $300 or so dollars with all those nice features?

[Anonymous No.13488386]

>>13488378
Keep saving friend and get the one you really love.
>is yours that micro-ish brand one that was like $300
nope! see pic (sorry for shite lighting and phone camera, I'll take some proper shots inc lume later today)

[Anonymous No.13488391]

>>13488328
balls are so ridiculous

[Anonymous No.13488396]

>>13488386
Oh fuck, are you the anon who just got the Stowa today? Awesome watch dude.

It's really not an issue of saving, it's more an issue of me just being a thrifty cunt when it comes to watches. I could be sitting on millions and still have trouble bringing myself to spend lots of money on them. Thinking I might go Laco for a B dial though.

[Anonymous No.13488397]

Are these shitters actually worth $1000

[Anonymous No.13488412]

>>13488396
yeah it arrived yesterday afternoon. I'm really in love with it and I'm afraid my other watches will dust now. That's completely fair though, I never thought I'd spend this much on a watch. I've really come to appreciate and enjoy them though and I like having something that I can maintain/repair for many years rather than a disposable device (not talking about cheaper watches).

[Anonymous No.13488422]

>>13488368
Mako Rays are great for the price. Realy nice everyday beaters.

[Anonymous No.13488435]

>>13488422
I've been pretty impressed in my 24 hours with it, given it is sub-$150. The Casio MDV-106 is still the undisputed king of beater dive watches when comparing value per dollar, but it doesn't look nearly as nice as the Ray and is also obviously not an automatic.

Time will tell with the movement, it is only +5 seconds over the last 30 hours or so. Acceptable given the price.

>>13488412
Congrats man, glad to see someone invest the money in a flieger when it's usually a diver or chrono around here. Enjoy it.

[Anonymous No.13488445]

>>13488186

[Anonymous No.13488449]

Where's the absolute madman who picked up the stowa pilot

[Anonymous No.13488455]

>>13488435
Thanks mate. Like I said, I'll post some decent photos later today. I've heard Laco is great as well

[Anonymous No.13488460]

>>13488449
present my man. Getting out of bed soon to enjoy my 2nd time winding

[Anonymous No.13488475]

Grandfather gave me this for my birthday, what can I wear with it?

[Anonymous No.13488476]

>>13487579
There are a few casios, but most colorful watches are microbrands I've probably never seen, or are chink shit. Better save up for a used club.

[Anonymous No.13488487]

>>13488475
Navy blue blazer
Hawaiian shirt

[Anonymous No.13488489]

>>13488186

[Anonymous No.13488494]

>>13488475
A pair of brass knuckles to beat your grandfather to death with.

[Anonymous No.13488502]

>>13488475
Invictas are ultra-gaudy shitters, so you only have two options: Sleazecore or that 1990s edgelord look Guy Fieri loves.

[Anonymous No.13488504]

Will there be a new seiko alphinist watch in the near future?

[Anonymous No.13488509]

>>13487662
>It's the only free sprung balance, balance bridge, silicon hairspring movement watch with very good external finishing at that price point.

You can get a used Rolex Explorer 114270 for about an additional $500 which not only comes with the same benefits.

[Anonymous No.13488526]

>>13488475
A noose

[Anonymous No.13488585]

>>13488475
Bracelets.
Lots of bracelets.

[Anonymous No.13488593]

>>13488509
Well yes, but that would put the used 114270 above the $4k threshold I mentioned, no? There are people who would quite reasonably prefer the $500 cheaper, brand new 39mm diver over the 36mm Explorer in that case.

[Anonymous No.13488597]

>>13488504
someone in an earlier thread said the SRPC33J1 is the Alpinist replacement, but he could have been trolling since that watch is butt fugly

[Anonymous No.13488604]

>>13487994
That’s my next one in 42mm type B.

[Anonymous No.13488615]

Just bought my 3rd Presage.
I may have a problem, guys.

[Anonymous No.13488622]

Is there any good modern pocket watch?

[Anonymous No.13488623]

>>13488615
Post them

[Anonymous No.13488625]

>>13488622
that citizen 1s/year one

[Anonymous No.13488670]

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9E65KfMwTqY
so watches are purely for appearence now?

[Anonymous No.13488675]

>>13488670
oops wrong link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m986siwzefs

[Anonymous No.13488684]

>>13488623
pls no bully

[Anonymous No.13488693]

>>13488684
Wtf my dude.

[Anonymous No.13488698]

>>13488186

[Anonymous No.13488703]

>>13488684
Holy shit you bought three cocktail time variants?! And I though *I* was bad for having autistically narrow tastes.

[Anonymous No.13488706]

>>13488693
Don’t worry.
I’ll stop at 4 with the Margarita next pay check.

[Anonymous No.13488712]

>>13488703
Lets see *your* shity decisions, cunty.

[Anonymous No.13488718]

>>13488712
I have a pretty narrow range of aesthetic taste in watches, so there inevitably is a lot of similar between pieces.

[Anonymous No.13488729]

>>13488684
Hey man if you like them that is cool. I have the blue one and do admit to eyeing the brown one as well.

[Anonymous No.13488760]

>>13488706
Well, it's your life and your money...
Do as you wish.

But, remember that you could have bought one nice watch for the same amount of money you spent on those 4 "watches".

[Anonymous No.13488834]

anyone know of a watch that shows day of the week only?

[Anonymous No.13488842]

[Anonymous No.13488844]

>>13488842
oh yeah should i cop?

[Anonymous No.13488875]

>>13488760
like what? a damn ugly diver?
it's all you talk about hover here

[Anonymous No.13488904]

>>13488834

Just the day? Like no actual hour/minute/seconds?

[Anonymous No.13488928]

Random fact:

The Speedmaster Professional Sapphire is 13.9 mm thick.

The Speedmaster Professional hesalite is 14.16 mm thick.


Sapphire for me it is. I can't deal with watches that are taller than 14mm. It feels like a god damn hockey puck on the wrist.

[Anonymous No.13488936]

Some guy posted his collection and there was a nice little Bullhead.
Is ebay the only place I can get one? I can't get it out of my head fell in love white the vintage meme.

[Anonymous No.13488938]

the omega dynamic is a stupid looking watch.

[Anonymous No.13488953]

>>13488391
They make a ton more sense in person than they do in photos. That applies to the watches themselves as well as the lume, too. In real life the tritium is much more subtle, it has to be quite dark before you can even see it and it shows up as slim lines instead of the big blobs it looks like in photos.

[Anonymous No.13488955]

>>13488928
The added thickness is only in the crystal. The case thickness is exactly the same.

[Anonymous No.13488959]

>>13488936
It is where I got mine. I recommend you go for the Japanese domestic version that says "Speedtimer" on the dial. It has non lumed dial and hands so they have aged better compared to the export lumed ones that read "Chronograph Automatic".

[Anonymous No.13488961]

>>13488928
Yeah, that 0.26mm really makes the difference between perfectly fine and horrible hockey puck. That's almost a 2% difference.

>>13488509
Rolex doesn't use silicon hairsprings, they use Parachrom which is a metal alloy. But also, the 114270 didn't originally use a parachrom hairspring. Maybe it was phased into later watches because I think some 3130 movements came with parachrom, but I'm not really sure. The 3132 movement is the one that definitely has the upgraded hairpsring, but that movement is in the 214270.

[Anonymous No.13488967]

>>13488961
There's a silicon hairspring in this one right here. >>13487609
Why would you make sure a transparent lie?

[Anonymous No.13488983]

>>13488967
My bad, I forgot they made some movements with silicon. Aren't those still only in ladies' movements though? The 2236 is mostly in 28mm models and last I checked the mens' sized movements still use parachrom.

[Anonymous No.13488985]

>>13488959
Noted!
Thanks, friend.

[Anonymous No.13489013]

>>13488684
I don't like the root beer, but I do want the blue one. Just wish it had a better bracelet

[Anonymous No.13489017]

>>13489013
>Just wish it had a better bracelet
and was 38mm

[Anonymous No.13489031]

Really dig this look, how durable are suede nato straps?

[Anonymous No.13489035]

>>13488961

>shit talking the 3130, one of the greatest movements ever designed
>doubting based Rolex

Are you some kind of next level pleb?

And unless you're talking about some fresh off the line early series from the 00's 114270, there is no reason why all the 3130's since then wouldn't have parachrom. Also I will take an anti magnetic metal alloy over silicon any day of the week.

[Anonymous No.13489039]

>>13489031
As tough as leather....

What do you plan on doing to it

[Anonymous No.13489042]

Did /wt/ get banned on /g/?

Haven't seen one there for a while. Did the wrist beads guy kill it?

[Anonymous No.13489043]

>>13489035
>Also I will take an anti magnetic metal alloy over silicon any day of the week.
Why? I'd be curious to hear your reasoning. In free sprung applications, silicon hairsprings enable applying advanced behavioral engineering to their design in much broader ways than metal.

[Anonymous No.13489048]

>>13489039
Going to basic in a few months, then airborne and rasp after AIT

[Anonymous No.13489054]

>>13489042
mods too lazy to actually moderate

[Anonymous No.13489057]

>>13489043

Go ask a watchmaker to fix a silicon hairspring

[Anonymous No.13489065]

>>13489039
Oh I didn't realize they were actually leather, nevermind then.

[Anonymous No.13489070]

>>13489065
Please be American

[Anonymous No.13489082]

>>13489070
I though suede was a fabric, because I've never had anything with suede before. And yes I'm a burger

[Anonymous No.13489108]

>>13488002
what model is this?

[Anonymous No.13489118]

Dumb questions.

What is up with the shiny purple things when you open a watch?

Possibly related, what are sapphires all about pertaining to watches and what are the alternatives?

Where can you find decent preowned rolex'?

[Anonymous No.13489128]

>>13489118
>What is up with the shiny purple things when you open a watch?
What do you mean

>Possibly related, what are sapphires all about pertaining to watches and what are the alternatives?
Sapphire crystal is extremely hard and scratch resistant. Basically the only thing that can scratch it is a diamond. so a watch with a sapphire crystal will look new for the lifetime of the watch.

>Where can you find decent preowned rolex'?
Reputable ebay deals, reputable pawn shops.
Basically do your research on the seller.

[Anonymous No.13489131]

>>13487230
Disgusting

[Anonymous No.13489136]

>>13489118
They are sapphire jewels and are low friction rubbing points for the gears to rotate around.

[Anonymous No.13489142]

Any way I could check out a SARB035 in person? Not sure I'd like the dial without seeing it.

[Anonymous No.13489145]

>>13489128

see

>>13487609

The little purple things. Why use them? I see them on a lot of watches

[Anonymous No.13489152]

>>13489145
>The little purple things. Why use them?
Ok, so sapphire generally refers to the crystal on the watch dial, just for clarification.

The little purple things are the watch jewels for the mechanics of the movement.
They are usually synthetic but sometimes natural crystals that offer extremely low friction when combine with a lightweight lubricant, and act as anchor points, or bearings, for the gears and springs to rotate in when the movement is operating.

[Anonymous No.13489177]

Is it a bad idea to use something like a sarb or king seiko as a beater? Not really into the chunky look of most divers.

[Anonymous No.13489178]

>>13489177
No a SARB is a sports watch

[Anonymous No.13489180]

>>13489177
>Is it a bad idea to use something like a sarb or king seiko as a beater?
They're nice watches, they'll last. It really depends on whether you're ok with getting scratches on which is the most you'd really ever do to it.

[Anonymous No.13489201]

>>13489178
excellent
>>13489180
Yeah scratches happen, I just mean will it be completely fucked after a certain amount of normal wear, of if it'll keep going with service.

[Anonymous No.13489203]

>>13489201
>I just mean will it be completely fucked after a certain amount of normal wear, of if it'll keep going with service.
No

[Anonymous No.13489204]

>>13488271
>it
THIS

[Anonymous No.13489205]

>>13489152
thank you senor

[Anonymous No.13489208]

Bump limit

>>13489207
>>13489207
>>13489207
>>13489207
>>13489207

[Anonymous No.13489860]

>>13489142
You will like it

[Anonymous No.13490248]

https://www.vintagewatchmaker.com/7016-0-p/w-15.htm

what u think about it? its franken, fake or what?