Helmut Lang

[Anonymous No.12176005]

We've been talking in the menswear fw17 thread about how to get into fashion and learn more.

I figured I'd start here by making a thread about Helmut Lang, who I consider one of the most influential designers of the past thirty years.

I'm gonna post some photos, articles, information, and links. Feel free to discuss and contribute.

[Anonymous No.12176022]

Helmut Lang is a retired fashion designer who started in Vienna in 1980. He was a dominant player in 1990's fashion and grew stronger by the year. Around the turn of the millennium he sold a partial stake in the label to Prada. After a period of financial decline and internal disagreements Lang announced his departure from the label in 2005 as some argue he was reaching his peak.

[Anonymous No.12176026]

A short article that gets at the core of his unaffected look of cool.
http://www.nytimes.com/1997/02/02/style/designer-s-invisibility-act.html

NY Times Lang interview
http://www.nytimes.com/1994/07/17/style/q-a-helmut-lang-fresh-glitter.html

On Lang's targeted gradual progression from season to season
http://www.nytimes.com/1996/03/15/style/review-fashion-another-sure-step-at-helmut-lang.html

[Anonymous No.12176059]

This article offers insight onto why the label ultimately fell. The events leading up to Lang's departure.
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/05/26/fashion/thursdaystyles/decline-and-fall-of-helmut-lang.html

[Anonymous No.12176066]

I'm gonna post some scans from a 2003 tribute to Lang in Arena Homme +

[Anonymous No.12176073]

Lang became known for his minimalist designs and meticulous tailoring imbued with an air of indifferent superior cool.

[Anonymous No.12176080]

the styling for this shoot was done by on of my favorites, the legendary Panos Yiapanis. Sorry about the two page spreads not being joined.

[Anonymous No.12176096]

thanks for doing this anon

[Anonymous No.12176116]

Elastic webbing and adjustable cinch straps became a trademark of Lang's designs.

>>12176096
no problem

[Anonymous No.12176119]

[Anonymous No.12176131]

Lang's color palettes largely consisted of blacks, whites, and neutrals, sometimes with contrasting stripes, blocks, or slashes of color.

[Anonymous No.12176132]

make /fa/ great again

[Anonymous No.12176137]

The AW 03 collection featured really cool runway only chainmail pieces, the influence of which can be seen in this shoot along with some of the pieces themselves.

[Anonymous No.12176143]

Good thread op

[Anonymous No.12176156]

Lang drew inspiration from industry, military, and aeronautics as seen in one of his most iconic designs based on g-suits (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-suit).).

AW03 featured the aviator pants seen layered here on the legs as well as styled as sleeves.

[Anonymous No.12176162]

[Anonymous No.12176173]

Lang used modern materials like ballistic nylon and metallic silver finishes to create a futuristic urban rocker look.

[Anonymous No.12176180]

[Anonymous No.12176190]

Lang arguably provided the stepping stone for Hedi Slimane's slim rocker look that dominated the industry in the 2000's.

[Anonymous No.12176196]

[Anonymous No.12176202]

>>12176196
which brings us to Melanie Ward, Lang's long-time creative director

Ward's styling and ability to fuse subtle sexiness with militaristic utility came to define the label.

Here's a scanned interview from a 2009 issue of Fantastic Man.

[Anonymous No.12176203]

>>12176202

[Anonymous No.12176209]

>>12176203

[Anonymous No.12176211]

>>12176209

[Anonymous No.12176225]

After his retirement, Lang donated a large selection of archival garments along with his entire graphic and corporate archive to MAK, the Austrian Museum of Applied Arts.

They maintain a fantastic digital archive of Lang pieces and commentary.

http://www.mak.at/en/mak_design_lab/helmut_lang_archive

http://helmutlang.mak.at/gallery.html

[Anonymous No.12176235]

>tfw helmut lang grew up in the same district as you

[Anonymous No.12176242]

So how exactly did helmut lang majorly influence fashion within the context of what was going on in fashion before / during / after his rise?

[Anonymous No.12176246]

In 1998 Lang was the first designer to stream a fashion show online, a forward thinking move that embraced new technology and provided access to the previously close guarded insider fashion world.

http://www.vogue.com/13396473/from-the-archives-helmut-lang-technology/

This desire to democratize and equalize designers, industry players, and everyday people is further seen in his move from catwalk shows to walking his models on the same level as the audience. This setup has now become industry standard.

[Anonymous No.12176261]

>>12176246
all the shit be made in china now. But the stuff from the 90s and 2000s was not and the designs were rather fire. I have a pair of the pants from 98 btw and want to get more soon

[Anonymous No.12176282]

>>12176242
I'm getting to that.

The essentials are this:

The 1980's was a time of flash trends, gaudy over the top design, and prominent branding as epitomized by the flamboyant pop culture referencing designs of Jean Paul Gaultier.

Lang's target beginning in the late '80's was to strip away the flash and brand to create a cooler than thou look defined by precise tailoring, conspicuous lack of branding (whoa, who the fuck makes that jacket), and coy erotic details.

Lang used carefully placed slits, holes, and cutouts in his clothing to provide tantalizing glimpses of skin. He championed the idea that sexy need not be overt. Sophisticated clubwear reimagined in delicate sheer fabrics like the mohair sweater at left typify the charged atmosphere he created despite the minimalistic designs.

The influence of his minimalist no branding look is seen everywhere in fashion these days. He steered the big houses away from the overt advertising they were falling into in the '80's.

Rick Owens has built a large following based on his sheer dresses and cutout pieces exposing unusual bits of underlayers and skin, something Lang was doing ten or fifteen years earlier.

[Anonymous No.12176300]

>>12176282
Lang's hardon for military and industrial references can be seen in Raf Simons, Hedi Slimane and Kris Van Assche's Dior collections, Christophe Decarnin's Balmain, all the way up to Yeezy.

Lang had a penchant for contrasting blocks of different materials and treatments such as coated sleeves, rubber strips, or metallic accents.

[Anonymous No.12176320]

>>12176300
In 1998 Lang decided to move his runway show from Paris to New York and he additionally decided to show his collection early, beating out the traditionally first Paris Fashion Week. His move led other designers such as Calvin Klein and Donna Karan to follow suit, which put NY fashion week at the start of the fashion calendar instead of the end. It was a huge shock to the Europe dominated industry and helped to shift the focus to America. New York fashion week still comes first today thanks to Lang.

[Anonymous No.12176340]

In contrast to the cheaper production and designs of the '80's, Lang used carefully chosen production companies and factories with few other accounts so he could ensure the focus would be on his own label. By the end of the '90's other designers were beginning to use the same factories and distributors as Lang, something which he's said bothered him more at the time than everyone copying elements of his designs.

[Anonymous No.12176414]

>>12176261
You bring up a good point, despite the retarded way you chose to articulate it.

Let's talk Helmut Lang post Lang and in the process clear up the confusion that lots of fashion newcomers have when they hear talk of OG lang, Prada Lang, and Theory Lang.

After Lang departed the brand Prada was left scrambling to produce a coherent collection that was suitably in the style of Lang but they didn't have the designer so they kind of extrapolated from his unfinished designs and old work. The 2005 collection was weird and included some pretty ugly stuff with details not seen in prior seasons such as asymmetrical cuts and closures. Very few stores picked up the collection and pieces are now hard to find.

The brand continued to tank financially and in 2006 Prada sold the label to Japanese holding company Link Theory, best known for the Japanese label Theory. Link Theory started releasing 'minimalist' collections vaguely inspired by Lang's work but with a strong emphasis on bias cuts and other elements previously seen only briefly in collections where Lang's own influence was questionable.

When Link Theory bought the label they moved all production from Italy, mostly to Asia, and the quality declined significantly. Most stuff was made in China, Taiwan, and other southeast asian islands. Some basics are made in South American countries like Peru and the denim and a few other pieces are made in Japan.

The HQ of the brand was initially moved from the longtime home of NYC but they have since moved their base of operations back to New York and some stuff is now even produced in the USA.

LT ended up nixing the menswear line for a while and named Nicole and Michael Colovos, previously denim designers, as the creative directors of the label. The menswear line was revived in 2014 with dark designer Alexandre Plokhov named as the creative director.

Pic related is a coat from 2005 showing an asymmetric closure not seen before in Lang's work.

[Anonymous No.12176419]

>>12176414
To be clear I'm not saying that all current Lang is trash, it's just a completely different entity than the label run by the maestro himself.

People like to shit all over anything Lang produced after Lang left but that's just silly. Take the clothing for what it is and if you like how it looks that's fine. The denim is still quite good quality and I own a few pairs myself.

[Anonymous No.12176432]

>>12176414
>>12176419

All that being said there's a huge market for old 'og' Helmut Lang pieces and it makes sense to teach newcomers how to tell the difference between old and new Lang.

Aside from just recognizing Lang's design work, the labels are the easiest way to tell old from new.

The most recognizable label is this one inspired by military issue labels. This label was used during the bulk of Lang's 90's career and sometimes included the season, either in print or hand stamped.

[Anonymous No.12176462]

>>12176005
Thanks for this whole thread anon

[Anonymous No.12176466]

>>12176432
What's the m mean? Don't think it's the size so I've always wondered

[Anonymous No.12176468]

The different labels can also help date a piece.

In later seasons the label was slimmed down to an oblong rectangle that simply read Helmut Lang. These labels were produced in four color combinations depending on the line it was associated with.

Black on white and white on black labels are generally seen on the lower priced stuff with black on white denoting basics and white on black denoting the jeans line.

White on white is the mid priced stuff, while black on black and black on grey denote mainline and runway stuff.

Couture stuff has black on black labels and says 'made to measure'.

I'm not 100% certain on this info because I've owned a few pieces that don't seem to fit those rules. I suspect that sometimes they'd just put white on white labels on white pieces and black labels on black pieces to keep the color scheme.

[Anonymous No.12176472]

>>12176466
I'm not entirely sure but the line is found in many military garments like pic related for writing your name

I'm guessing the M stands for military service number, which is essentially a catalog number for all military issue gear

Lang may have chosen to simplify his label by conjoining these two things

[Anonymous No.12176485]

>>12176005
>Helmut Lang, who I consider one of the most influential designers of the past thirty years

not this meme again

[Anonymous No.12176488]

Most of the accessories were produced under the Helmut Lang Jeans label and feature metal tags in one of two styles. The long rounded rectangular design was used on belts, bag straps, and such things. The larger more square metal plate was used on the inside of bags.

[Anonymous No.12176494]

Some very early stuff from the '80's has a label reading 'Helmut Lang Wien' but I can't seem to dig up a photo.
Late '80's stuff has a label reading Helmut Lang Collection Calla.

[Anonymous No.12176496]

Prototypes occasionally turn up for sale. These labels are just long strips that say Helmut Lang Prototype with the season.

[Anonymous No.12176503]

The Theory era Helmut Lang labels are pretty distinctive. There are three or four main styles.

The most common is a black and white rectangular label reading Helmut Lang with two smaller labels attached to the bottom, one with the country of manufacture and one with the size.

When the HQ was moved back to New York, they changed a lot of the labels to read Helmut Lang New York.

Some of the current labels mimic the og lang labels in their simplicity. They're black on white rectangles that just say Helmut Lang. You can tell that they're recent labels because the stitching used to attach the labels is angled rather than running parallel to the label itself.

Their are a few weird Made in Japan labels floating around (bottom of pic related). They're definitely Theory era labels but I don't know whether there's any special significance or time period when they were used.

[Anonymous No.12176504]

>>12176494
are you sure about that? ive always thought the 'collection calla' tags were also from early 80s, but only briefly. with the vienna tags (example from a supposed 1989 piece of mine) being from the late 80s / early 90s

[Anonymous No.12176505]

>>12176503
made in japan tags like your example are archive but only really used for basics like singlets or earlier graphic shirts

[Anonymous No.12176506]

>>12176432
should have put this further up but the og stuff had distinctive care tags in Lang's signature eurostile font. This label is where the country of manufacture is listed.

[Anonymous No.12176509]

>>12176504
that makes sense
you're probably right

>>12176505
that's what I suspected as well since I've only seen them used on undershirts and stuff

[Anonymous No.12176514]

Well it's past time for me to go to bed.
If this thread is still around tomorrow I'll keep posting some stuff.

So far this is all pretty surface level stuff and there's so much more to get into. I haven't really even started on design stuff. Still, I hope y'all got something out of this.

If you're inspired, do your own research as well. At the end of the day there's no substitute for doing your own work.

good night, /fa/

[Anonymous No.12176680]

awesome thread

[Anonymous No.12176682]

>>12176005
Please make more threads like this and get a trip so we can find them easily in the archive.

[Anonymous No.12176708]

>>12176682
>advanced search
>Subject: Helmut Lang
We don't need yet another tripfag even if the content is decent for once

[Anonymous No.12176833]

is plokhov still creative director? how is he doing? I remember when he had his own label and even did a colab with Uniqlo, now no one talks about him

[Rafposter No.12177163]

very very nice op

>>12176682
please do. we can make /fa/ back to which it was or even better. OP could at least make more threads I understand if he doesn't want a name or trip. I'm currently gathering more pics for a new thread sometime in the future so be an the look out friend.

>>12176708
it will be better for trips who actually post good quality content instead of the other trips who rarely post anything beneficial. chairman, the mexican all caps guy, and fake eliza and occasionally Patrick Bateman or pigfuck. those are just the first couple off the top of my head and should say something about the trips we have now.

Raf Simons wearing aw96-97 Helmut Lang denim jacket at his bow for Dior.

[Anonymous No.12177176]

good thread

[Anonymous No.12177300]

>>12176682
>>12176708
>>12177163
op here
I've always been resistant to getting a tripcode because I've never really seen the point unless someone tries to impersonate me, which seems unlikely given that I'm mostly just posting facts and information instead of opinions

I guess I see the value for cataloging purposes
I'm gonna stick to anon for now I think but we'll see

>>12177163
maybe you want to spearhead a Raf thread?
I'm certainly not as knowledgeable about Raf as I am about Helmut

>>12176833
Yes, Plokhov is still the director of the menswear line. I don't believe he ever had a hand in the womenswear. He shut down his own label at the end of 2015, which is why you're probably not hearing much about him these days. I'm not sure if he has anything else in the works.

I have always felt that Plokhov tends to get a little goofy without a design partner or corporate structure to reign him in. His best work was with Robert Geller on the label Cloak. His mainline stuff continued the dark look and razor sharp tailoring but lacked focus.

I'm definitely interested in what he does next even if his Lang stuff is not really up my alley.

[Anonymous No.12177306]

Gotta go to work. Keep the discussion going or post pictures or something.

I leave you with a rare Helmut Lang chronograph.

[Anonymous No.12177347]

>>12177300
just reading right now that plokhav was creative at versace, what an odd pairing

[Anonymous No.12177374]

>>12177347
Yeah, but I think it worked out pretty well. Before he stepped in, the menswear line was dated and tacky. He distilled the line down to something refreshingly simple and much more modern.

He's always had a bit of a rocker edge to him so I don't think the appointment was a total surprise.

[Anonymous No.12177407]

>>12177163
>clueless tool of a namefag advocating trips
gee I wonder why

[Anonymous No.12177435]

I don't know much about Helmut Lang or fashion but recently I've been looking into designers and high-end brands. This thread is really interesting to me, thank you for taking the time to show us all this.

If anyone here wants to see some standouts/grails from Helmut Lang (and many other brands), Huiben Shop has them on display as well as some information about the piece.

https://huibenshop.com/collections/men

>>12177407
Feel free to contribute more than the "clueless tool of a namefag"

[Anonymous No.12177462]

>>12177435
there's another website like this with more of a selection on old margiela pieces, does anyone know what it is? not endyma

[Anonymous No.12177494]

op you're the fucking best

[Rafposter No.12177569]

I'm gonna post some scans from Hero Magazine since it relates to OPs interests

>>12177435
I love huibenshop, but a lot of their stuff is really overpriced in my opinion.

>>12177462
maybe ln-cc? although I think most of their stuff is gone by now.

[Rafposter No.12177573]

>>12177569

[Rafposter No.12177605]

>>12177573
If you don't know what the Casavant Archive is, it's an archive started by a man named David Casavant who collects items from mostly Raf Simons and Helmut Lang. Sometimes also Jil Sanders, Ann Demeulemeester, Maison Martin Margiela, and/or Dior. Here's a article which goes into deeper details.

http://www.gq.com/gallery/raf-simons-helmut-lang-archive-kanye-west-big-sean

I won't post credits on these since they are on the pages themselves.

[Rafposter No.12177610]

>>12177605

[Rafposter No.12177614]

>>12177610

[Anonymous No.12177620]

>>12177605
Man I wish I had the money to start archive of designers I like

[Rafposter No.12177621]

>>12177614

[Rafposter No.12177629]

>>12177621

>>12177620
you and me too, friend.

[Anonymous No.12177630]

>>12177620
he's just some kid who gets money from his parents

[Rafposter No.12177635]

>>12177629

[Anonymous No.12177651]

B U Y T H I S

https://www.grailed.com/listings/1367442-Helmut--Lang-1998-Archive-Five-Pocket-Jeans

[Rafposter No.12177652]

>>12177635

>>12177630
yea that's true. I think it's said in the video by Highsnobiety. I think his dad's money pays for it, but there's no denying his collection is incredibly impressive.

[Rafposter No.12177662]

>>12177652
and that's it. I hope you guys enjoyed it, thank you.

[Anonymous No.12178090]

>>12177630
Actually, he's a stylist and he started collecting as a hobby. When he began bringing pieces from his collection to shoots people realized he has a lot of cool stuff and stared hitting him up.

[Anonymous No.12178833]

>>12178090
hi david

[Anonymous No.12179370]

bump for a great thread

[Anonymous No.12179436]

>>12176225
Jerry Lorenzo stole this

[Anonymous No.12179495]

>>12179436
Well yeah. He stole just about everything he's ever 'designed'. He's taken from such broad sources as Lang, Simons, Owens, Slimane, Decarnin, and Tisci, among others.

Stampd LA is another egregious Lang thief what with their strappy bomber jackets.

I really have no idea how shit like this makes it to production without the majority of people involved along the way being like, 'yo dude, that's a lang piece'

[Anonymous No.12179502]

Since we're here, I'll post pics of my favorite jacket.

[Anonymous No.12179510]

>>12179502
It's a 75/25 wool/polyamide chore coat, with a pencil pocket and thick elbow pads. It's very warm.

[kiddo No.12179515]

>>12179495
not enough people know who lang is.
A lot of stampd's recent shit is just a mish mash of lang, john elliot, and discount yeezy season.

[Anonymous No.12179517]

>>12179510
It needs a couple repairs but it's holding up pretty well. I've had it for a good while.

[Anonymous No.12179532]

>>12179502
>>12179510
>>12179517
beautiful and utilitarian piece
take good care of it =]

[Anonymous No.12180160]

This thread is beautiful, we need more like it

[Anonymous No.12180224]

I have a Lang blazer. My only complaint is that it doesn't have surgeon's cuffs.

[Anonymous No.12180388]

>>12180224
Not og

[Anonymous No.12180407]

>>12180224
surgeon cuffs are a meme, my saint laurent shit doesnt have surgeon cuffs, who gives af

[Anonymous No.12180440]

>>12180224
that's because it's a newer Theory era piece

Lang was known for his attention to small details from surgeon's cuffs to finished inner seams to special hanging loops. Those details were left behind when the label was sold.

How do you like the blazer aside from that?
What's the quality like? How's the fit?
I haven't handled much newer stuff aside from the jeans.

[Anonymous No.12180449]

>>12180407
I think they're nice for layering. I have a Rick and an Ann jacket that have them and I generally wear them at least partially unbuttoned. The Rick jacket is flared at the cuff as well so it's meant to be worn a bit open.

Aside from that surgeon's cuffs are not really necessary. It's more of a guarantee of a semblance of quality since only top tier labels will take the time and expense to feature them.

[Anonymous No.12180476]

Lang's treated his advertising more like art than ads, often choosing to highlight a closeup of a garment or treat the clothes as an aside.

This stood in stark contrast to the in your face sales ads of other labels at the time.

[Anonymous No.12180496]

This approach to advertising as art and art as advertising is best seen in this ad, which juxtaposes a Lang shoot with a vintage Robert Mapplethorpe photo of the artist Louise Bourgeois.

This old and new side by side attempts to distract from the commercial nature of the brand by presenting the photos as an art piece. At the same time, the strikingly different campaign was designed to stick in peoples' mind and reinforce the brand. Though the Bourgeois photo was not his own and credit is given to Mapplethorpe, the most prominent name in the layout is Helmut Lang, speaking to his act of designing the ad itself.

[figcuck~~8 No.12180496,1]

>>12178090
actually he started collecting as a teen with his parents money (David has said this himself) and has now made a business out of it
>tfw you barley learn about Raf / Lang archives and know nothing

[figcuck~~8 No.12180496,2]

Helmut Lang is the GOAT, this isn't debatable unless you're an uneducated pleb coming from Supreme / FOG type shite or cant rid yourself of your own biases towards what you "think" are the best designers

Helmut is the Michael Jordan of fashion

And I've owned a pair of those 03 Aviators, they're sick. That was one of his greatest seasons

[Anonymous No.12181535]

>>12176005
thanks OP, u r hero

[Anonymous No.12181548]

>>12180440
It fits slim, which is what I like.

It's a nice blazer, all in all -- though, it's not at the level of Owens, whose blazers I absolutely love.

[Anonymous No.12181550]

great thread op, cheers

[Anonymous No.12182417]

[Anonymous No.12182448]

Theory Lang gets shit on way too much. While not as groundbreaking or interesting as Lang originally was they're still a huge step up from Prada Lang and generally make somewhat decent basics. They've basically just carried on a lot of OG Lang's minimalist approach.

[Anonymous No.12182541]

>>12180496

Is that a cock ?

[Anonymous No.12182642]

>>12182448
you dont know what youre talking about. The Prada partnership started at the end of the century and was incredibly advanced in terms of concepts, materials and execution. Lang was still designing at this time, and after he left, Prada sold to linktheory, everything after that had horrible quality, wonky asymmetrical designs and uninspired attempts of throwing in Lang elements without success. ill admit that some of the current Plokov designs are actually pretty interesting, but nothing has topped what lang did while at the helm of his own label.

[Anonymous No.12182644]

>>12176503
Aww, so my HL item is a rather low tier one. Shame.

[Anonymous No.12183663]

>>12182644
As I said earlier, take it for what it is. If you like the item and it fits and seems to hold up well it was a good purchase. It's not og Lang but at least it's from a period where theory started investing more in the label.

[Anonymous No.12183695]

>>12183663
Well, I did get it for a steal and it works for what it is. Guess I'm happy with it, thanks!

[Anonymous No.12183839]

Elastic hand wraps evoking bandages were seen in Lang's later collections along with his most iconic accessory, the steel handcuff bracelet.

[Anonymous No.12183851]

[Anonymous No.12183863]

>>12183851

[Anonymous No.12183883]

[Anonymous No.12183959]

The Helmut Lang flagship store in New York blurred the line between shop and art gallery, featuring LED installations by friend and collaborator Jenny Holzer and sculptures by Louise Bourgeois.

In typical Lang fashion, the store attempted to minimize the commercial nature of the label by hiding the clothes from outside view behind massive opaque glass walls and presenting pieces singularly in lit alcoves resembling museum walls.

This approach not only sought to place the garments on the level of art in the mind of the consumer but encouraged consumption through the minimization of spending guilt normally present in traditional stores. The brilliance of the marketing was it's attempted invisibility.

[Anonymous No.12183998]

here comes the rebranding

[Anonymous No.12184001]

This is a pretty good article explaining Lang & Holzer's working relationship and the power of their combined creativity.
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/25683/1/when-jenny-holzer-met-helmut-lang-broke-the-rules-fashion

[Anonymous No.12184008]

>>12183998
Why'd you have to ruin my day?

I intended this thread to be about the label under the man himself but I guess we can talk about new Lang if you guys want.

[Anonymous No.12184020]

>>12183959
>>12184001
cool but I would never step foot in these kinds of stores. dept stores let you walk around and touch things without being watched at ur every step

[Anonymous No.12184028]

>>12184020
The idea was to make you feel cool by going in there. It's a boutique, not a department store. Part of Lang's whole vision was a democratization of high fashion though so I'm guessing the staff would have been warm and friendly and let you check out anything you wanted. I wasn't really fashion conscious around that time though so I never did get to visit one of his shops.

[Anonymous No.12184033]

>>12184028
I'm guessing they're not remotely the same today?

[Anonymous No.12184039]

>>12184033
nah
looks more like any other boutiquey store now

[Anonymous No.12184921]

https://hypebeast.com/2017/1/first-look-travis-scott-helmut-lang-collaboration-813

so this... is the power... of..

[Anonymous No.12184944]

>>12184921
the power of what?
it's just some generic trash 'rapper' plastered on some generic 'minimalist' clothing

[Anonymous No.12184947]

>>12184944
i was making a joke about the contrast that you see in this thread with this $400 screenprinted tshirt of a nigger who thinks he has a stake in fashion

[Anonymous No.12184956]

saving this thread

with no survivors

[Anonymous No.12185022]

>>12184921
shameful, bet he doesnt even know who helmut is

hopefully kanye smacks him for agreeing to release such trash under a legendary house

[Anonymous No.12185022,1]

The label died when Helmut left I don't care what anyone says.
People were interested in the genius of Lang, interested in what he himself, and his team, had in store each season.

There will never be a successful "re-branding" as it served its purpose for the time it did and made such an impact on fashion history that even any attempt at a revival just makes it seem like a bad sequel

[Anonymous No.12185471]

Are there any good books on him?

[Anonymous No.12186656]

bamp

[Anonymous No.12186899]

so did issey rip off helmut with this in 96?

[Anonymous No.12186940]

>>12186899
No. It's not by any means a rip off and quite a few designers released bombers at that time. I'd say Issey's is unique. There was another resurgence of parachute bombers around '03 when both D&G and Raf put out their iconic iterations. I'd say if anything those two were more inspired by Lang than Miyake was.

[Anonymous No.12186949]

[Anonymous No.12186952]

>>12186940
>>12186949
cool, great thread

[Anonymous No.12186961]

[Anonymous No.12187388]

>>12176080
his balls must itch lol

[Anonymous No.12187612]

>>12184020
rick store is similar, super friendly staff though, didn`t feel awkward at all shopping there

[Sieg No.12187874]

>>12176005
The brand as a fashion label is defunct, it serves only as a brand/asset held by a mass clothing producer (theory) with production in (south)East Asia.

If you want to get into fashion I suggest you take a look at the myriad of rising stars that suddenly popped up at the end of 2016 taking advantage of the trump era American economic boom

Signaling the end of the recession years (Obama years)

[Anonymous No.12187876]

>>12187874
>Signaling the end of the recession years (Obama years)


i'll take "things that aren't factual" for 4 years

[Anonymous No.12187942]

>>12182541
mostly =]
https://www.moma.org/collection/works/81418

[Anonymous No.12187947]

>>12185471
Not that I know of. He's mentioned in numerous books on fashion in general but he never did a big 'ol book a la Raf or Rick, probably because he actually followed through on his plan to leave fashion behind him completely.

[Anonymous No.12187947,1]

>>12187874
There will be a collapse before the boom - at least that's what I remember from economics - but the boom will be like none other