/fa/ - Fashion

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you're at the wrong place mate, fashion discussion doesn't happen here

h&m fw15 is fire 🔥 with great quality and affordable prices

it looks like I will only cop the triple white rafdidas again. He managed to make the colored ones uglier... somehow...

>>9857133
I'd assume that's because of people like you.

The kind who complains about the lack of discussion on /fa/ then doesn't contribute to any sort of discussion.

>>9857145
I went to hm today and i was shocked, when i was there the last time i thought everything looked decent and that the fabrics seemed decent. (I was a pleb at that time) this time i thought everything looked like shit, too many saturated colors and shit. Only thing i found was a silk blend pique wich felt really soft and had a nice wine red tone.

>>9856267

>New talents

Craig Green's rapidly rising star is well deserved. Though elements of what he does have been touched on by other designers, his particular method, his evocative approach to dressing singles him out in the current menswear landscape. He's proven to have a thorough understanding of the tropes of menswear and tailoring, but you never get the sense that he feels restricted by them. Despite the radical styling in a lot of his shows, the clothes on the racks manage to feel very wearable while still retaining a lot of what makes it so magical in the show. He's also slowly expanded his palette and technique over time so nothing new has felt overly forced.

I feel very much the same about Yang Li and though I love what he makes for men's, I do think his women's is still stronger. His latest outing showcased an eye for color that stands out amongst his peers and a sense of refinement that's almost shocking in a label and designer this young. Moving between sophisticated dressmaking and rugged leatherwork with ease, Yang puts a good argument as a spiritual successor to designers like Raf and Helmut, but I don't get the sense that he feels burdened by that.

>>9857333
Almost never see Green's work discussed here, you're once again proven yourself as the best trip

>>9857333

>Old guard

Kind of stupid to repeat it, but Rick. Shapes in Sphinx were great and the fabrics balance a certain primal earthiness with refinement in a way that few others could do without seeming like they're torn between two worlds. As always, beautiful development that still holds true to who he is.

Really happy for how Lemaire's business has grown. Bags are obviously a plan for the future and overall, the two of them seem to be designing with more confidence than ever. The look is there, the signatures are there, and customers clearly respond well to it. I don't think the Uniqlo collaboration is the biggest deal in the world, but it does indicate that there are people in high places paying very close attention to what they're doing.

>>9857193
I didn't say I wanted any fucclord ;)

>>9857365

>The next generation

Haider Ackermann's commercial reach is limited, but his creative impact is huge. His facile way of handling colors and textiles would be enough to make him one of today's most important designers, but the way that he walks the razor's edge between sensuality and strength indicates that he understands the importance of risk in proposing new ideas. Though you see echoes of Demeulemeester's poetry, Lagerfeld's affection for artifice, and Galliano's decadence, Ackermann is a man of his own making and the clothes are really unlike anything else on the market right now. For fall, the heavier, rougher, less tender elements were balanced against a newfound use for print that wrote a new chapter in his story.

I'm very heavily biased, but Robert Geller's work remains one of the only bright spots on the New York calendar for me. At this point, I think Geller's long since escaped the shadow of Cloak and has found a way to capture mood and romance without the trappings that defined some of his earlier collections that, for better or worse, often felt like a continuation of his previous work. The post-piste narrative of fencer's after fencing channels the athleticism and splendor of such a rarified sport, but with nonchalance. He's also expanding his range of materials to incorporate more price-friendly pieces for people who love his look, but want a simpler entry point to the collection. Very happy to see what he's got lined up.

>>9857328
what the actual fuck lol

>>9857490
>>9857365
are you an architect?

because you're really good at making walls

>>9857490
>>9857333
>>9857507
of text

>>9857333
Definitely have to agree when it comes to Craig Green, my only gripe would be accessibility--absolutely no idea where to find the majority of his garments.

>>9856267
Where can I get them except antonioli?

>>9856267
im really impressed by everything sacai is currently doing, i love the idea of combining garments without too much adaptation, certainly a brand to look out for.
as far as cdg proteges go im also very impressed with the work of kei ninoyima, some people dont like that he only makes clothes in black but i adore the dedication, everything piece of his i have handeled so far has impressed me, the construction is pretty crazy. Honorable mention to craig green. oh and i also think that tim coppens has really fallen off, everything he makes now just looks like public school stuff with zippers on it.

>>9857490

>The antagonists

The collection behind Vetements has produced an energizing response by the fashion press even as some shoppers seem unconvinced. Being branded as a Margiela redux is reductive, though it does point to some of the problems that some people have with the collection. The transformative and alchemical approach to material that defines Vetements' work certainly owes much to Margiela in his heyday, but there are worse things than refusing to bow to trends and insisting upon your own method. Fusing elements of thrift, luxury, and trashiness with an arch self-awareness yields mixed results, but ones that provoke a strong response.

Shayne Oliver is not out to make clothes that please, but to ask questions. And that's often easy enough for a designer, but asking the right questions is the hard part. For every familiar, if intensely reworked, garment that he showed for fall, there was an equally alienating new style that forced you to confront the question of who—or what—it was meant for. But unlike other designers whose flights of fancy take them too close to the sun, Oliver ultimately is designing for a wardrobe, even if it's a distinctly contemporary and untraditional one. Suiting fabrics and washed denims share equal space with fur halter coats and asymmetric portrait neckline puffers. But the subtlest clue to this collection (and perhaps Oliver's future direction) was in the reversed "B" on the printed logo of a long jersey tunic; he has keyed in to what makes his own universe work and is figuring out how to revisit it without abandoning what makes him special.

>>9857521

Dover Street Market, Matches, Barney's, 10 Corso Como, Maas & Stacks, Other Shop, IT, Antonioli

>>9857608

Look at Toga Archives and Toga Virilis.

>>9857521
I know suspensionpoint had a few of his pieces from ss15. Otherwise probably mostly in store, maybe h Lorenzo now that u think about it.
>>9857333
Yang Li is getting kind of monotonous in my opinion. Repeating the same shapes and using the same fabrics over and over.

>>9857625

Surprised you feel that way. For fall, I saw metal-bonded fabrics and a much broader palette than anything he's done before. The floor length coats and gowns are de rigueur for him at this point, but there were a few positively mini proportions.

>>9857592
I'm sure it's the only place you can pre-order, but waiting for a general release would probably be a better idea, just make sure you're quick as it seems as though they're going to be quite popular from the way they got swiped up on Antonioli.

>>9857695
Do u know any dates?

>>9857625
>Yang Li is getting kind of monotonous in my opinion

Yeah, but I still liked it.

>>9857365

forgot raf and dries bruh

>>9857708

I didn't. I'm just not excited about it.

>>9857710

Raf I could kind of understand, Dries however deserves praise even if you think he doesn't innovate

Opinions on Lou Dalton?

Enjoyed it a fair bit

>>9857742

>>9857747

>>9857754
>>9857747
>>9857742

not exciting imo

>>9857742

Good clothes, but I never see them get any play outside of London. I do like the plethora of technical and non-precious fabrics that she uses, though.

>>9857778

london designers getting way too much hype these times

>>9857797
palace dropped a few gems

>>9857797

To be fair, it's one of the few markets and runway locales where designers are properly rewarded for taking risks and pushing themselves. New York is almost entirely driven by what sells; Milan has folks like Consuelo Castiglioni and Miuccia Prada genuinely pushing it (but you've got tons of staid "pretty" Italian clothes and then brash, flashy labels like Fausto); and with only a few notable exceptions, Paris is very much about what's refined and clean and sophisticated. None of those necessarily discourage designers from pushing themselves further, but I wouldn't say they actively encourage it either.

>>9857832

I know London is where most young talent is at but that doesn't mean every graduate should get a show and coverage

>>9857832

no interest in slp?

>>9857797
>>9857832
>>9857843
>>9857778

Talk about London

>>9857843

Without coverage they can't get the critique they need to correct their mistakes and grow. You could argue that a showroom setting with a good sales agent can help you do that, but critical press feedback is important, too.

And actually, graduates all get shows. Every school does them, it's just that St. Martins has a prestigious program, so you actually realize they're putting one on. Everyone from SCAD to ESMOD to the Royal Academy to Parson's puts on a show.

>>9857863

>>9857881

>>9857867

I don't think you need a show to get the critique to improve because the bigger show might actually stop young creatives from innovating or over doing it to get the coverage and using it as a way to apply for a job

i think it's best to keep it inside with teachers evaluating and maybe do a limited amount for the public

>>9857899

You're confusing course work with graduation.

>>9857917

point of too many people being featured in those shows still stands

no love for kanye x adidas ?

>>9857952

I'm not head over heels for it, but it's such a vast improvement over his last farce of a collection that I'm happy for him. Clearly moving in the right direction. The true test for me is what he shows for Season 2, though.

what do you think about 'new' gucci

>>9858035

Can't speak for other posters, but Gucci has never been my thing. I think the new Gucci is at least more relevant and more interesting than what Frida was putting out for years. And that's better than nothing.

>>9858035
an improvement, but the old luxury houses tend to be boring in a way

>>9858480
is Costume National considered an old house?

>>9858502

I think that poster is referring to very old, storied houses (often times with sizable trade in leather goods and accessories) like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Fendi, etc.

Costume was conceived as a ready-to-wear line and things like shoes, bags, and diffusion lines came later.