/fa/ - Fashion

>>7617382

>fashion week discussion thread
>/fa/ continues scrolling
>"oh a rick thread"

bump

every season im reminded how retarded the timing of this shit is now

why are there two acne shows?

>>7617382
http://nowfashion.com/yohji-yamamoto-menswear-fall-winter-2014-paris-5535

>muh Yohji

He ditched the kimono inspo in favor of traditional European stuff. Still going over it.

fucking loved raf's
everything about it was amazing
bbs was dope as well , reminded me of the old Sherlock Holmes novels

>>7617441
>He ditched the kimono inspo in favor of traditional European stuff

that's what he's been making for 35 years. have you ever seen " a notebook on cities and clothes"

Dries Van Noten favourite collection so far. BBS's fedoras ruined so many otherwise great fits Thought Julius was pretty boring besides a few really nice jackets.

want to cop this

Phillip Lim and Raf killing it

Brioni went in.

Raf ace fits everywhere

Damir Doma brought it with similar ideas from his last two collections although it wasn't completely exciting. Had a few interesting pieces here and there. I'll probably cop some of the brown pants >dat material

I feel like so far yohji was my standout. It felt like a good step forward yet still remaining within his own unique aesthetic. I loved the swirling color palettes and how those played off the way the fabric fell on the models. It almost seemed to be channeling some bizarro world or alice in wonderland motif which was really interesting to see work because honestly that could have gone quite badly. Pulled it off though, really good stuff.

Raf actaully surprised me a bit, because I enjoyed it much more than his more recent collections. I did have an issue with the derivitive nature of some of it though. It was as if he heard all of the criticsim of not living up to ss02, fw05, etc and was like "well if i put patches on it that outta do the trick!" There were some nice mondrian inspired colorwork and patterns but still not what I feel I want to see from Raf.

Boris was eh.... about what you expect with Boris.

I'm still going over Rick, Dries, DD, and Julius but I hope for the best.

Pic related has been my favorite look so far

Raf simons really felt like a reflection or a reference to his older works. I loved the coats(fucking loved them actually) and I liked that he went back to slimmer fitting pants as opposed to f/w 2013. I thought S/S 2014 was much much more interesting and fun though.

yohji was great

rick was nice too expect that the boots really looked uncomfortable and awkward on the models.

Driesje was cool, didn't expect less of him but those huge boa's were lame.

>>7620702
I'll try to make time to watch some other shows closely too.

I tried so hard to enjoy Raf's show but I just couldn't get over the shoes. They were just too much for me.

I was very excited about Yohji's lineup this year, some of his looks were absolutely fantastic with none of them disappointing me at all

>>7620723
yeah they really did look like clown shoes

my eyes just kept getting drawn to them

i loved dries
i quite liked damir
rick was plain i loved the palette tho

raf was horrible
also 6 month old fashion enthusiasts turned raf simons ""fans"" orgy on fashion tumblr make me want to slit my wrists rn

i thought belstaffs show was very cool

Any new thoughts?

Givenchy was a trainwreck.

i liked the big clumpy boots @ raf

>>7622388
everyone was a basketball

my fave were issey, boris, damir doma and raf
thought yohji's was cool too

>>7622630
damir was boring tho imo

diluted achromatic raf-lite

>>7622630
ronaldmcdonaldcore

Just saw John Galliano I thought that was pretty good.

>>7622630

this picture makes me depressed

it must be so boring

Why do so many people hype Valentino? Seemed pretty lame to me.

>>7623133
Bump, I'm curious.

bbs shit
dries shit
damir a few good pieces
cdgh+ mediocre
Julius a few good pieces
rick pretty good
yohji mediocre tailoring decent patternwork
raf managed to ruin almost all the garments by throwing those tacky images all over them again and collabing with such a shit artist

I think thats all I watched

>>7622630
I think the all white ones with an all black fit could work p well

>>7623847
how was yohji mediocre tailoring? genuinely curious

>>7617382

Am I the only one very pleasantly surprised by the dramatic shift at Dries?

>>7623898
camo always comes in and out very quickly

So is camo "in" again ?

Raf had some dope camo fits.

>>7623890
lack of I guess. Everything always just looks way too big, so much extra fabric in so many of his collections. his more fitted collections have always been my favorite

>>7623946
>looser silhouettes = lack of tailoring
>
>

>>7623990
You're just making yourself look like an idiot.

>>7620754
Agreed. I want it all.

>>7622388
just looked at it. I agree.

Thom's supposed to b tommorow right?

>>7623876

clown boots

>Open up Raf
>Puke

>>7617382
boris one wasnt very cohesive but some really cool looks/pieces

didnt really like the julius show, parkas were cool, boots were completely fucked

raf and cdg arent rlly my thing

dd was lame again

yohjis show was pretty cool, i liked the coats especially

didnt like any of the rick shit at all besides that fresh as hell scarf

walter van beirendonk (besides slogan things) and henrick viskibov were both good. walter epsecially, reminded me of those russian soldier nutcrackers

prada was kind of dissapointing

>>7625466
yes

>>7617441
*tips fedora*

>>7623892
dreez did what dreez duz, prints you ugly chinaman

>>7624119
is he wrong?

>>7625466
yes get hyped

Anything other than Thom left to look forward to?

how bout you post a collection thats not a brand /fa/ spouts out constantly, honestly makes you feel like you cant make your own opinions

>>7628569
sl if hedi floats ur boat

>>7626752

Actually they were almost all dye treatments. No embroidery, no outright screen printing. It's a pretty big departure for him if you look at the arc of his career.

i like dis

im scared it will look weird with the hood up though

>>7628660
wait does it even have a hood

im dumb i cant tell

>>7628674

Yeah. It's a pretty straight N-3B in terms of build, just shrunken and then patched and trimmed a la Raf.

>>7617409
>>7618083
>>7618241
>>7618407
>>7620702
>>7620754
>>7628660

Where are the handsome models? The Nils Butler, the Viiperi, the Lachowski?

WHat's happening?

I really liked balmain, philip lim

>>7628679
thank u

>>7628690

Lim didn't overdo it in terms of too many looks, too many ideas like he does sometimes. I think the horsehead print was a little too obvious and gimmicky, but I think it's been definitely one of his more successful collections lately.

>>7628690

>>7623946
>not understanding yohji

he's always been like this

>>7628702

how could anyone think this is a good idea?

>>7628702
damn, dude looks like a fucking elf. im jelly.

>>7628822
they have different opinions than you?

>>7628822

A person who is looking for clothes to shoot in an editorial? A designer who is looking to make a splash and ensure they get good press coverage?

>>7628830
you know your shit right?

how do I look at fashion shows with more of an analytical mind and such instead of just thinking "oh that looks cool" , "o i dont like that fit that much" adn etc

>>7628843

Try to divorce yourself from your personal taste. Think about different body types, different lifestyles, different modes of dressing. Ignore the colors and look at proportion; ignore the proportions and look at the colors. Take the outfit apart into its component pieces. Look at how the details are assembled.

Then do it again to the clothes once you have them in your hands.

>>7628829

well obviously their opinions are poor

>>7628830

it's the most cliche possible execution of his theme. it's worthless as an idea and its ugly. it seems to me like complete amateur work.

>>7628864

He does get a little direct and overt at times, but I don't think a stonewashed denim poncho is that "cliché" mostly because I don't know what the cliché would be. Could you be a little more explicit in what you mean?

>>7628874

there's a clear, but subtle cowboy theme running throughout the show with the exception of that look and the one which follows. those 2 bash you on the head with it.

>>7628874
of course he can't, he's doing damage control

>>7628893

I wouldn't call the cowboy theme "subtle". It's in the show notes, it's in his interviews about the collection, and there are horses and denim everywhere. If you're going to make cowboys and Western Americana the concept for a collection, it makes sense to extend the concept to its furthest logical point and take the source material and transform it beyond its origin using your own aesthetic. Otherwise, what's the point of designing anything under your own name?

>>7628908

I didn't read the notes or watch the interviews. Excellent creative production is almost always moderate in its approach. Not everyone could interpret the theme as creatively he does for the majority of his looks, but anyone could go to the extreme. A lack of moderation is a sign of infantile creative skill and for that reason it doesn't have a place at the highest level in fashion.

>>7628660
>>7628660

>>7628946

And this is why everybody thought McQueen was a hack.

All sarcasm aside, I think that's a fair criticism if this was just a lookbook or even a catalog or something. But it's a show. It's about taking an idea from point A to point B and showing what you can do with it, how you can make it yours. The idea of capes, ponchos, coverage is obviously on editors, buyers, and customers minds when thinking about the fall/winter season, so I don't think it's that outrageous for Lim to be doing one. I grant that putting a stonewashed denim poncho with a silk scarf and a tonal stonewashed pant is quite a lot of look, but take it apart. It isn't the easiest thing in the world to wear, but it's just that; a poncho. You could easily throw it over one of the dark, technical sweaters that Lim favors, some of his military-inflected trousers, and a dark boot and it wouldn't be the most outlandish idea out there.

I think criticism is good and being able to say you don't like something when you don't like it is fine, but I also think it's silly to couch your personal dislike of a style or design in some grander statement about what creativity or moderation. You don't like it; just say that and own it. Everything else is baloney.

>>7628960

Other than the shrunken jacket, I don't see what you're seeing.

>>7628973
Great post.

>>7628973

I really don't care enough to bother addressing your points, but I'll say McQueen displayed incredible skill and that makes extremes more permissible. It's a different game.

>>7629009
>I really don't care enough to bother addressing your points

Okay.

As for the topic on hand, just quickly glanced through a few more of the new ones. Acne continues to drift further and further away from my personal wheelhouse and I'm sure that it's a lot better in stores, but sometimes I can't shake the feeling that Jonny is just doing things because he thinks it'll look cool and not because they'll make for nice clothes. Compare to women's pre-fall '14, I did not much care for the majority of the Acne stuff.

>>7629062

As always, I'm pretty into Komakino. A brighter, more patterned showing from them, but they're still playing to their strong suits: military tailoring, unexpected detailing. A wider array of textures and the broader palette helped to make the line seem fuller and richer than past collections. I'm sure long-time devotees will still be into it.

Henrik went deeper off the deep end than usual for his presentation given the heavy emphasis on the limited edition show pieces that so rarely make it into his stockists' doors, but he's managed to take some of the major threads that have been recurring in menswear lately (bold text, oversized shapes) and give them his own spin. Softness is nothing new for Vibskov, but the sportier (I saw shades of rugby/football gear in there) twist definitely made it feel fresh.

>>7623946

l o l this is hilarious

go read something about yohji please

>>7629009
>I really don't care enough to bother addressing your points

puuuuussssssssssyyy

>>7629098
your thoughts on dh?

>>7620754
Belstaff's looks are always extremely wearable because they favor such traditional silhouettes

>>7629504

Well, they're not trying to reinvent the wheel. People buy their jackets, so they just keep making jackets.

>>7629495

Interesting. It's a marked departure from where KVA's taken the label since he's been in charge, but you can see that he's gotten more and more comfortable introducing bolder elements of color and pattern over time. He's been loosening up the silhouette every now and then, adding shots of wild texture or color and now he's really cut loose. It's very much a high end-low end combo (military parkas over suits, mod-ish leather coats with washed jeans). It's not very me, but then again, DH never really has been. I think adding in those luxe more street elements is a great way of making the brand a little more approachable. I liked the idea of the prints, but didn't like the actual execution that much on many of them. I actually think the some of the most successful looks used the bold stripes worked into the pinstripes for a subtle twist on a classic pattern.

>>7629558
thoughts on givenchy?

>>7629558
what is your shoe collection like?

>>7629622

Very boring. Almost nothing but boots and sneakers.

>>7629607

Disclaimer: I am not really a Givenchy fan. Outside of the bondage sweater and bondage boot from years ago, I've never really ever wanted to own anything Givenchy. That said, I get it. I get the customer, I get the look. The street meets tailored thing just has to be taken for what it is at this point and complaining about it is just silly.

I appreciate that he's moving past his standard silhouette, opening up the pant, relaxing the proportions a little. I think the basketball thing got a little too obvious at times, but at least the execution (with the zips, the trims, etc.) was pretty perfect. I actually think they do great tailoring that's often goes under the radar and the slightly longer, but sharply cut jackets were a nice counterpoint to the extra ease in the bottoms. The tricksier pieces are never going to be to my taste though: the lavish parkas, the fur, long sleeveless coats. I did like that the prints (outside of the basketball) were less literal. The art-y Bauhaus influence served him well and it made everything gel a lot better.

>>7629661
but what boots and sneakers?

yeah i dont like givenchy really but i didnt see why everyone said it was a train wreck

>>7622686
>raf lite

once again tinfoil doesnt really know shit and is a RO dickrider

>>7629675

I assume it's because everyone wanted more of the same and were disappointed when they didn't get it.

As for boots, a lot of Fiorentini + Baker, LD Tuttle. Sneakers from Raf, Rick. Nothing out of the ordinary, frankly.

>>7629807

Yeah, I didn't get that comparison either. Sure, he interned with Raf, but outside of the occasional silhouette and whatnot, I don't see too much of an influence there.

>>7629807
damir doma apprenticed for raf simons and its shown heavily in his recent collections you stupid fuck.

>>7630124
no raf inspo here tinny is a big idiot huhuhuuhuh

>>7623946
You've completely missed the point of Yohji's garments

raf was shit

>>7630145

That's one of many collections. Most of Damir's output has been much more about that multi-culti, worldly gentleman thing. The eastern-inspired shapes, the intricate jacquards, the drape, the monastic severity. If anything, the look from SS14 that you posted is the exception that proves the rule. Here's a timeline of the opening looks of every Damir men's show in reverse chronological order and I think SS14 is clearly the odd child out. If you think Raf is the over-riding influence here, then I guess you and I are just looking at different things.

>>7630240
it definitely wasnt as rafish as ss14 but its still more rafish than his old collections, 2010, 2011, etc. wasnt as obvious but i could still see it in a couple looks

could be wrong tho i havent paid a ton of attention to raf or dd recently

>>7620754
Where can I find belstaffs show? I'm failing horribly at finding it :/

>>7630438

It was just a presentation. Nowfashion and Style.com should both have it.

>>7630260

What, exactly, do you think is Raf-ish? Other than the patches and some of the tweaked 70's-esque tailoring in SS14, I'm not quite sure what you're talking about.

>>7630533
patches and tweaked 70sesque tailoring are pretty signature raf looks no?

>>7630541

But that's not the only thing that Damir has ever done nor was in the only thing going on in SS14, so I still fail to see your point.

#TeamThom

http://nowfashion.com/y-3-menswear-fall-winter-2014-paris-5925

Y-3 AW14 is lightyears better than AW13, holy shit this is good stuff

>>7632968

>>7632972

>>7630240
if you could struggle out of the turgid mire of your autism for a few moments maybe you would notice that tinfoil was talking about this particular damir show, not every damir show that has ever taken place

Thom Browne was interesting, to say the least.

Dunno about you, but I found it quite intriguing how he played up the darts on the front of the jackets. It's the detail no one ever pays attention to, and most people even forget they're there.

Overall, I think he really took off and ran with the idea of "rough around the edges" though, which is what's lacking in #menswear.

Meh, see for yourselves:
http://nowfashion.com/thom-browne-menswear-fall-winter-2014-paris-5619

>>7634382

Raw edges and mixed fabrics were well used, though he's visited those techniques before. I do believe that most TB jackets are darted through the waist, they just reversed the dart and probably distressed the allowances a lot to give it that fuzzy texture. That said, it's a great way to turn a technical detail into a design detail.

>>7632968

Lots of strong looks. It's going to be great in stores.

>>7634522
What's your take on the fat suits Thom Browne used?

A wry way to poke fun at the industry or a legitimate statement?

>>7632968
Wow, am I the only one that actually liked Y-3 2013? The cam was nice, imo, plus the whole "10 years anniversary" thing.

acne was really really bad

>>7620723
can anyone explain the artistic merit of these shoes? cause they ruin it forme

>>7634947
i think it's just to add a quirky element and echo things like the giant collars
but somebody more versed in fashion than i am could probably derive some complex social commentary from it

>>7634557

He's always done a lot of outsize things. There were the "monster" football players from FW12 and whatnot. If anything, it's more of a nod towards the elaborate volumes and proportions of couture (which are used more practically in his womenswear), with many of the elements—nipped waist, sculpted sleeve—being pretty directly taken from mid-century things. I also thought of it in terms of children's wear; you take kids to the zoo and a lot of looked like exaggerated versions of the rounded, soft shapes you find in kidswear. I don't have any of the show notes, so I'm not sure if that's just me, though.

>>7634947

They're almost direct replicas of the bunny boots that are military-grade footwear for cold weather use. Ruby Sterling has long made American militarism and consumerism a part of his work and appropriating the utilitarian rubber military boot is very much in line with his approach to art making.