/fa/ - Fashion

the bloodred was beautifully executed

Was hoping to make fun of you but this is actually pretty dope.

Too bad he's gone to shit now

raf ss02 is pretty fucking classic

obligatory Thom Browne FW12 post here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaniAnfv1q4

I also love how Thom Browne SS13 was executed.

>people going to the models instead

>>7432085
yeah fw12 was a fierce collection and a great show

ss13 captured summer pretty fantastically too. defs two of his best seasons

>>7432085
>>7432085
why am i laughing so hard

>>7432039
the womens ss 14 collection was dope but yeah the mens hasnt been very good since fw 12

>>7432064
love ss02

helmut lang fw03 is perfection though

>>7432172

>>7432172
>>7432176

word. such a shame it went to shit after he left. and rafs....well....lacking vision well call it.

>>7432473
i think raf just peaked everything he did up until 06 was impeccable(ignoring the weird ss04 hippie shit), but he really does seem to be phoning it in at this point.

such a shame too. some cite an abandonment of those youthful subculture/counterculture paradigms that were once a staple of his early 21st century collections as being responsible, but he proved with his collections in 05/06/07 that he could produce riveting avante garde menswear collections that weren't really concerned with the same themes as his 90s and early 2000's work.

idk why he doesnt try and revisit the themes and styling he explored in ss05/fw05 and ss06/fw06 its not streetwear or 'clothes for boys' like the 00-04 collections but its still brilliant and contemporary. everything from 09 onward has really being banal and disappointing, like who does he make clothes for now? theres no coherency or pervading tonal sentiment; other than boring tailoring and odd flourishes that just seem like sad attempts to capture what once was.

>>7432600

>>7432600
>those youthful subculture/counterculture paradigms

can you explain why everybody says this?
ps-he probably doesn't do what you want him to do because he's not designing under his own label

>>7432172
>>7432176
>>7432473
It was going to shit financially when he was there.

the thing that we forget about when we romanticise about HL is that the label was making losses every year since Prada bought it... it probably was making losses before too but since it was a private company then it's harder to tell.

Helmut Lang's collections as beautiful as they are and were did not sell well with the crowds back in its hey day. You can be critically acclaimed all you want but you've gotta sell sell sell.

Helmut Lang Jeans actually accounted for 50% of total sales, and I think the first thing Prada did when Helmut Lang himself left was to license it off... with the man gone and his house in tatters everyone that was loyal just left the label since it wasn't what they were after.

Great collections though.

>>7431965
2010-2011 were Damir at his best. 2011FW is probably my favourite DD collections

Yohji SS09 and SS14 is up there for me, I would wear every single piece in those collections.

TB SS13 was probably my personal favourite as it was the most wearable TB in recent years.

Tom Ford SS2008 The man with that collection single handedly influenced the entire menswear market. He brought back the peak lapel and wide lapels coupled with strong shoulders. I know others were doing it, but he made the average guy WANT it.

>>7432600
You described it pretty well. For me the cutoff is also fw06, save for a few pieces here and there up until fw09, after which I can't even bear to look at how hard he's fallen.
Next collection is some Sterling Ruby collaboration apparently. Which, if was anything like their last work together, will be pure garbage. Dat acid washed denim.....

>>7432625
would really love a pair of velcro motos

>>7432646
aw11 was sloopy af

aw10 THE GOAT!

>>7432678
Yeah i just double checked I meant 2009-2010

from SS2011 which wasn't bad he kinda went downhill for me.

AW2010 is definitely him at his best.

>>7432646
ss14 yohji is indeed gorgeous

>>7432637
he still designs for his own label, at least officially, how much creative input he really does have is a matter of conjecture.

>can you explain why everybody says this?

you only need to look at the collections themselves aw01, ss02, fw03, much of his 90's work. most of these collections were inspired by certain youth subcultures/themes/elements/issues and the designs reflected that. OS baggy silhouettes, reappropriation of milsurp jackets, sewing of patches, graphics with cultural epithets, youth slogans, collaborations with artists that were part of said subcultures.

the names of the collections themselves perpetuated these themes and were statements unto themselves.

aw01 'riot riot riot'
ss02 ' woe unto those who spit on the fear generation..the wind will blow it back'

not only that, these collections were designed with young men in mind. they were shown on amateur belgium models, the messages and the slogans were designed to not only evoke the subtexts of cultures themselves but to inspire contemporary youth.

you could argue that hes simply 'matured' now but again, as i said earlier, he did mature for awhile, he moved on from this following fw04 and delivered some breathtaking menswear collections that were very far removed from his 'youth' collections.

now he just churns out shit.

if you want specific collections, see ss00, fw00, fw01, ss02, fw03, fw04

>>7432647
>Sterling Ruby
damn shame.

the only thing in recent memory that is at best inoffensive is fw12. ss13, fw13 and the recent ss14 have all been really awful.

>>7432749
thanks, I always hear about "early raf, rebelious youthfulness entombed in irregular fits and silhouettes" and whatnot but I see what you're getting at. I did like the baggier stuff he's done, now it just kinda looks like a womenswear collection tbh

I did like ss2013 though

>>7432773
np, a lot of the collections are on Youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQLAeG9lD3Y

>>7432773
raf has always cribbed from womenswear

>>7432815
is that turnleft?

>>7432855
lmao no its his much cuter older bro

>>7432855

No it's Heirloom on SZ

not rly relate to the thread, but does someone know what the collection with the bunny ears is called? forgot by who it was, but it was from this year

>>7432873

Comme des Garcons Homme Plus FW13, love the collection as well

For fucks sake, someone help me, I can't discern what is good and why it is good from what is bad.

I need help, quickly

Yohji Yamamoto FW94

I have no words to describe it. It's one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen in my life and every single time I watch it I just shake my head in disbelief at how amazing it is

Thanks to twerk for posting it here a long time ago

http://youtu.be/s5XSuBMRcxw

>>7432887
hmmm nah it was for wimmen but thanks tho

>>7432935
u sure?

>>7432733
I've saved my pennis so can't wait for it to drop

>>7432935

Oh then it's probably this, Undercover FW13 Anatomicouture

>>7432956
ya

>>7432977
yes, thank u lovely anon!

Comme des Garcons Homme Plus FW12

Really want an iteration of this jacket

>>7433044

And this one

>>7432977
I wonder if they got any Adam on them?

Comme des Garcons FW12

I'm a guy but I would wear the shit out of this collection. The paper doll pieces are amazing, I love how you can see the outline of a body but it looks as if it's melting onto a flat canvas

newfag to high type fashion here.
Can't stop watching the Ann D. FW 2013/14.

Yohji SS12
Yohji AW07
Yohji SS11
Yohji AW11

All Damir up to AW10, AW10 being the best
Really, all I want to wear is Yohji, but some Damir would be a nice compliment

I'm not a goth ninja. Haters gonna hate, but I always come back to the Balmain FW11 mens collection. I love the layering and the simplicity of each piece keeps the fits from looking too busy/crowded.

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2011MEN-BALMAIN

>>7433175
Oh, and Yohji SS09
All those suits..

>>7433108
Good night, sweet princess.

>>7433192
Would wear with this on a shirt

>>7433264
what she didnt die

>>7433436
Denying ones fashion career = death.