/fa/ - Fashion

>MMJ
Also known as "the Balmain of Japan"
Outrageously overpriced shit with a skull print
>Hermes
Old trophee wives with bags and scarves, some kind of less tacky Louis

>Givenchy
The doberman print is one of the most iconic.

>>6911941
>loro piana

im doing stockroom work as a temp out @ their outlet store in bicester tomorrow :(

but they are boring posh mum and dad clothes. worn by posh middle aged people, italian middle aged people and VERY posh (and boring) young people

>>6911941

If you're really interested, just pick up a coffee table book or find some costume history/critical theory stuff about all this. I'd try to answer you a little more thoroughly, but this is a LOT of information.

>>6912981
Hey I'm interested too. Could you just tell what you know about a few of the designers he mentioned?

>>6913003

I'm going to grab some donut holes in a bit. Pick a few and I'll try to spit something out when I get back.

>>6913006
Timbits >>>>>> Donut holes

>>6913027
poop>>>>>>shit

>Raf,
started out well, esp SS02 imo, but now idk... too busy doing dior now, jil before, as well as his own line so is kind of phoning it in a bit? nowhere near as good as he used to be

>Yohji
consistent, strong vision, has the occasional misstep (those furry shorts on ln-cc) but has continued on his own path of loose fitting peasant luxe. respect.

>Jil Sander
clean, professional, tends to be pretty... basic, for want of a better word, but I really like her

>Ann D
victorian pirate vampire core

>Givenchy
conspicuous consumption

>Rick
really like his more athletic inspired stuff, less keen on the suiting

>Saint Laurent
hedi rehashing his one idea

>MMJ
£$£$£$£$£$£$$£$£ pricey
there's a good post by anorak somewhere on the archive

>>6913046
woah wtf boi #boY (boii)

>>6913006
I'd like to know about Givenchy, MMJ, Loro Piana, ACNE. If you've got some extra time on your hands, then Saint Laurent, APC and Hermès would be cool too.

>>6913110
>Givenchy, Loro Piana, ACNE

wikipedia/internet has all you need

>>6911941
this is subjective question but here's my perception of various brands/designers

>arab/negro-tier
gucci
versace
fendi
louis vuitton
coach
cavalli

>acceptable hip-hop tier
raf
ysl
givenchy
pyrex

>patrician-tier
jil sander
ann d
prada
theory

>elderly woman-tier
hermes

>autism-tier
rick
yohji

>>6913110
Loro Piana's image is designed to cater to old money. Very rarely will you see nouveau rich or rappers, etc dressed in Loro Piana cashmere (fyi their main product and claim to fame, it's the best around afaik)

>>6913149
Where's loro piana, dolce & gabanna (the real designer, not their shitty branded sweats), burberry prorsum, london, brit, apc, acne...?

>>6913154
>the best around
Search on Mr Porter for "Exemplaire" and "The Elder Statesman"

Also Hermes cashmere isn't bad at all

>>6913149
HBA?

>>6913203
loro piana: ceo-tier

d&g: homosexual-tier

regular burberry: chav-tier

prorsum: patrician-tier

apc: homosexual-tier

acne: homosexual-tier

>>6913149
>>autism-tier
>rick
>yohji
>inb4 500 replies

>>6913247
was once acceptable hip-hop tier, however it's transitioned to fuccboi-tier

>>6913249
>d&g
>apc
>acne
>homo
Why tho?

what do you think of zegna and brioni, got shops right next to where I live and considering copping a few basics

>>6913304

because they project an effeminate masculinity. all those brands are flamboyant (bright colors, revealing etc...) which i associate with women's clothing.

>pic related

personally, i think men's fashion should be understated.

zegna is fine if you're looking for business attire. i don't know anything about their casual wear.

brioni is a little fruity but acceptable if you're european.

>>6913382
>bright colors, revealing
Not true for all their stuff. There are very understated garments from APC and Acne (not much from D&G tho)

Lanvin too? I guess you'd include Margiela in the list as well?

>formal
No, more casual stuff actually.
Was considering saving up for a Kiton suit and John Lobb shoes if we're talking formal. Should I?

>if you're european
Why?

Opinions on Balmain, Sruli Recht, Visvim, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen pls

>>6911941

How I see them
Im lazy

Raf:Simpler Vivienne Westwood
Yohji:Master sophistication nxtlvl playful seriousness
Jil:Male raf LEL idk alot about her work
Ann D:Idk alot about her work
Givenchy:Hype streetwear, some interesting shit
Rick:Upcoming master, his womenswear>menswear
SLP:Cool as fuck niche, hard as fuck to pull off
MMJ:Expensive as fuck but cool shit if it doesn't have the skull branding

>>6913442
Balmain:Expensive as fuck cool in theory but so far have only seen it on rich asians with no taste
Sruli Recht:Doing his own thing very interesting
Visvim:Cool niche if you have the money go for it if you don't then whatever
Balenciaga:Amazing history idk alot about Ghesquiere and Wang is doing ok there
Alexander McQueen:bitch im the shit

Srsly tho go read books or articles on them this is kind of pointless

Reading about designers you're interested in is fun as hell

>>6913475
>SLP
>hard as fuck to pull off
Huh?
their varsity is cool bro
their tees and shirts too

>Givenchy
>hype streetwear
Apart from the doberman stuff, why?

>MMJ
the skull branding is the whole point though

>>6913509
>bitch im the shit
lol'd
is that the actual image the brand has
why

>>6913514
Its just my opinion on em don't take it too seriously
Don't know much about those brands other than their general "look" in recent times
Only designers / brands I actually know an ok amount of stuff on is Yohji and Cdg

>>6913442
Visvim: We Laise Price

SLP: Lazier imitation of Slimane's work at Dior Homme, brings nothing new or interesting, look like it came out at Topshop.
Yohji: An indisputable master, one with true respect for the human form and the beauty of a garment, both in construction/feel and look.

>>6913475
Jil had been the master of minimalism before Raf came around, Raf's current (boring) aesthetic is much more influenced by his tenure at Sander than Sander's current aesthetic has been influenced by Raf.

>>6913523
Nah it's just an extremely lazy interpretation of the brand by me
I meant to say that it's some legendary shit
Nobody can touch dat level
I like what Sarah Burton is doing there too

>>6913536
We Laise Plice*

>>6913536
Maybe I should have said Raf:Male Jil

tell me about tom ford and browne

especially the former, I don't know a lot about his clothes

>>6913561
Tom Ford's basically known for reinventing the house of Gucci to a lot of people, and he certainly made them more financially viable, but I'm not a fan of his work.
Thom Browne is a genius, smart and very slim tailoring, subversion of the rigidity of menswear, always embracing a whimsicality and absurdity in his designs. Shorts. Also shorts.

>>6913436
margiela is acceptable hip-hop tier

>Was considering saving up for a Kiton suit and John Lobb shoes if we're talking formal. Should I?

if you have to save up for that stuff you probably shouldn't. bespoke clothing is for people who don't care about money. get a theory suit and have it tailored imo

as far as why europeans can get away with wearing certain things, it all relates back to masculinity. american masculinity is traditionally very butch whereas european masculinity is more fluid. If an italian wears a speedo to the beach nobody bats an eye but in america people would assume he's gay. i think it has to do with our puritan heritage. regardless, european men can dress provocatively while still preserving their heterosexuality and american's (in general) can't.

>>6913561
google u stupid shit

>>6913536
dont u own a ton of visvim

also
>current raf
>boring

>>6913572
>have to save up
Well I could buy them now but I prefer being reasonable. Whatever, I'll get something less extravagant then. For the suit at least; Lobbs are affordable and seem to be top notch for dress shoes. Right?

>>6913561
Tom Ford saved Gucci
Thom Browne is another upcoming legend seriously love his work, but not a fan of the hordes of people in his staple suit. I know that's how he makes money but he has such a creative vision and I'd like to see it interpreted on a higher level by his customers

>>6913591
>Gucci
Not the guy you answered to but is his own line unremarkable?

>>6913584
Yeah, I own a fair amount of Visvim, though compared to someone like Master, I don't own that much. He buys like three pairs of every shoe, one to rock, one to stock, one to flip - they're like jordans.
Current Raf is extremely boring to me, I don't like the purposely gauche aesthetic, the tailoring is extremely boring and a lot of the items you could get in better quality at different houses.
Where's the cool youth culture ( I know youth culture is prominent in current Raf, but not in the way I like it. Also, just let me make a joke)

>>6913588
lobbs are great and if you can afford them then go for it

>>6913442
Balenciaga used to be great, I still like Wang's designs but I can't take him as seriousy as Nicholas Ghesquiere he's just too trendy for my tastes, but maybe that's fashion editors' fault that everything that Wang does automatically becomes a trend.

I like McQueen but only the runway stuff Sarah Burton is doing pretty well, she's got that McQueen vibe but the stuff sold at their stores isn't so great it's never been really McQ has always been about couture and RTW shows.

I wonder who buys Sruli Recht I like everything but that is all soOO unwearable and I don't think I've ever seen anybody actually wearing it. His clothes are more art than fashion.

Visvim - cool Japs that's all about it really.

I've never seen a single good fit featuring Balmain nor I'm interested in the RTW stuff.

>>6913546
>Nobody can touch that level
Don't know much about McQueen. Why?

>>6913618
I forgot to mention that in McQ I'm only talking about their menswear. Womenswear is the shit!!!

>>6913609
>better quality at different houses
Such as?

I like the dip dye sweater and was wondering if it was worth the price.

>>6913609
idk who master is

is he a sufu person

i rly wouldn't categorize recent raf so broadly either, pic related is the opposite of clumsy imo

ur right in saying some of his stuff is intentionally gawky tho

>>6913619
I don't even like McQueen's stuff that much, but few designers match McQueen in sheer scope of imagination, especially his womenswear. Just look at some of his older collections.
>>6913626
It's actually a fair price for a sweatshirt, but I think it's just fleece, not loopwheeled, which isn't really my preference, but up to you. Haven't handled any of AW13 Raf yet, so I can't speak for quality personally. I think that was one of the few items I liked from this season other than the Gradient pants.

>>6913536
>>6913584
>>6913609
>>6913660

TRIPFAG FIGHT

>>6911941
OP, this is a stupid thread I'm afraid, at least the way it turned out to be.

if you want to find out something about the designers, then look at their collections. browse through the fashion week fotos. i feel like many opinions here are based on hearsay and not on actual reasoning. for example, there's a lot of hate on dolce and gabbana, because they are usually mentioned alongside gucci, which is a very bad brand. but dolce and gabbana have extremely nice designs and they are one of the few old "luxury fashion houses" that push forward and don't fuck up while doing so (unlike Burberry with their pink metal/silk blend tin foil trench coats).

if you want to know something about their history and major points, that's a little more complex. a good starting point is always wikipedia, then go from there.

>>6913619
Google any one of his shows and watch.

>>6913660
I categorize recent Raf broadly because I don't like it. Yes, I can understand that some of his stuff is somewhat daring, but it comes off more as gaudy and unappealing (Neoprene gorilla arms for example). It feels like unsubstantial flash to spice up a relatively boring and uninnovative "modern" look.
>>6913674
This is a discussion about fashion, it's what the board should be based around, it's not a fight. How stupid are you being right now?

>>6913684
Fucking this
Stop trying to have people spoon feed you extremely vague information
If you SERIOUSLY want to learn shit about fashion then go to your local library and start learning.

Holy shit, stupid question after stupid question. It's 2013, do you know what google is?

>>6913684
Agree with you, how many people who say it's shit have actually seen a Dolce and Gabanna show in recent times? There are lots of cool stuff. But I actually like what Christopher Bailey does at Burberry, The metallic pieces were very nice.

Very random but when I was a kid my dad would buy me these american Ice cream rectangular blocks wrapped in a similar metallic paper and the collection reminds me of that and is probably why I like it so much

>>6913689
relax bb i was just kidding around

>also tinfoil is beating u

>>6913110
>I'd like to know about Givenchy, MMJ, Loro Piana, ACNE. If you've got some extra time on your hands, then Saint Laurent, APC and Hermès would be cool too.

Many of these labels have pretty storied pasts, so for stuff like Givenchy or Hermès, there's plenty of reportage, features, reviews, and critiques already out there. Whole books and whatnot.

My access and exposure to the Japanese domestic market has always been pretty narrow, but I think of MMJ as a different aesthetic, but with shared values and an ethos not TOO unlike Visvim. There's a high-luxury, low-concept, streetwear-centric thread that ties a lot of it together. It's always been very much that rock-inspired, denim and leather kind of lifestyle and the designs are gratuitous at times, but there's never an effort spared on getting material and fabrication to be really on point.

Loro Piana is basically the only name in large volumes of high quality cashmere. For most of its history, it was family run and steadily consolidated suppliers and manufacturing facilities. They're now mostly owned by LVMH and they're practically the de Beers of cashmere, since they're the largest buyers in almost all major cashmere markets (e.g. China). Their strategy has been both to improve and secure their supplies of raw material, which is why they're able to command pretty high prices. As a brand, it's always been the same story: quality and luxury. Almost no attention paid to trends other than to ensure that new styles feel contemporary.

>>6913776


Only other one that I personally find interesting is Acne. Jonny Johansson launched it with a run of jeans that he made for people he knew. The reaction made him launch a full line of denim that has expanded to full apparel and is currently an entire ready-to-wear line for men and women with accessories and footwear. The name has changed (from being an acronym for "ambition to create novel expressions" to it's current branding as Acne Studios), which also reflects Johansson's mutable approach to developing and growing his brand. The label also produces the biannual "Acne Paper" magazine. It's cultivated a reputation for cool, intellectual dressing, helped along with its quirky and inspired collaborations with everyone from Lanvin to Lord Snowdon to transexual fashion magazine "Candy".

>>6913546
His stuff always looked to me like slightly better designed versions of department store clothes. I'll have to check out some of his shows to see if it can change my mind.

>The name has changed (from being an acronym for "ambition to create novel expressions
now that i didnt know

Givenchy: Used to make good shit, now does clearly overpriced, over designed shapeless garments with obnoxious prints that they call "streetwear fashion"

>>6913776
>the only name in large volumes of high quality cashmere
Uuh... No. Prorsum and Hermes got their share too.

Could I get opinions on Sruli Recht please

Like, the quality
The perception and image
The reputation

>>6913066
Implying the furry shorts were a misstep.
I'd cop if I had the money
>muh grail

>>6913149
Most of Ricks Stuff is autism, except maybe 1% .
But Yohji has a lot more good stuff.

Read what you can here and if you're still hungry for a historical treatment on these brands, consult Google.

Oh, I did happen to review Burberry on my blog - www.adisheveledrefinement.com

>>6913776
>>6913799

hey /fa/scist where do you learn about all this? will i ever be this knowledgeable about fashion just reading wikipedia articles or is there any other good source? i came here expecting to gain a lil bit of knowledge and been here a few months and rarely see any actual fashion being discussed.

>>6917166
Sruli stuff is by and large very good quality.
Interesting construction too; the overwhelming majority of his pieces are constructed from a single piece of fabric.
As far as perception and reputation goes though, it's not really popular enough for many people to have taken notice. Sruli is still renowned more for his 'non-product' pieces.

You thinking of copping some?

no OP just poorfags bashing brands they don't know about b/c they can't afford them and see nigrich rappers wearing it on TV

>>6917429
you will def not get that kinda knowledge if 4chan is your only source of fashion info

>>6917451
Indeed, thought about copping a scarf and a ring (I know it's not a real garment but I like how it's described)

price tag for scarf is hefty (3600 euro) and I wonder if it'll go well with my outfits since I usually dress pretty basic and casual (Acne, APC, Jil, T by Wang and some Robert Geller Seconds)

>>6917605
>price tag for scarf is hefty (3600 euro)
bahaha

>buying the sruli jew

>>6916996

Most ready-to-wear labels purchase their cashmere from Loro Piana, which is why you'll often hear sales associates tout the source of the cashmere on a product. Some products are even co-branded along with some LP tags.

>>6917429

The library is your best friend. As are museums. Hunt through bookstores for old coffee table books, old magazines. If there's a critical theory section on costume or dress in your local library or school library, that's also a great resource.

>>6917897

Sorry, "many", not "most".

>>6917897
Well, what do you think of emerging labels which pride themselves on the independant production of very luxurious cashmere?

http://www.mrporter.com/Shop/Designers/The_Elder_Statesman

Lanvin?

It's expensive as shit but I never see it discussed here as frequently as SLP or Givenchy