/fa/ - Fashion

oakstreet grey import their loafers

Would black or dark brown leather chelseas be more versatile? I already have suede medium brown ones

>>18188864
Post pics when you get them

>>18189041
Source?

>>18189055
Brown is more versatile than black.

Im looking for a pair of like Oxford / Derby type shoes in a less formal medium brown color (like left in picrel) that could go well with chinos or maybe some jeans of the right color.
I'm willing to spend up to like 450 bucks for a good pair of shoes that will last a long time.
Also its gotta be something in my area that I can go try on.
I have seen some shoes that I know are good quality for around 450, but for example picrel is 250 bucks, buffalo skin, doesn't tell me much, and they dont say if its top grain, full grain, or genuine leather etc. Looks OK in pics, but I dont know if they could last me 15 years or not, they dont specify if its like goodyear welted which means its probably not. On the 450 dollar shoes i found it does specify goodyear welted but even those shoes didnt say if it was top grain or full grain.
So whats the difference between buffalo skin and for example calf skin? What animal skins are good?

New Jim Green 719 boot looks nice

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3XlwdzsMv8&t=527s

>>18189315
You don't want full grain on a dress shoe unless you want to see scarring and diaper rashes. All leather is genuine leather unless it's not actually leather.

For dress shoes you want either box calf or museum calf. These are types of tannages that have a very tight grain so you get beautiful small cracks at the bend point instead of loose grain. They also feature an aniline (shiny) finish and a corrected grain so it's nice and uniform.

I'd honestly suggest getting a grant stone oxford in your correct brannock. They use tannery annonay box calf and leather heel counters. Annonay is probably frances most famous tannery, it specializes in calf and it's owned by hermes.

>>18189387
didnt hermes actually buy the tannery? boxcalf is stiff, request a sample patch if you cant try on the footwear in person. picrel is carmina boxcalf

and some cf stead calfskin

>>18189387
>>18189434

>>18189387
When I say genuine leather I meant in the order category of leather quality that goes something like picrel, although sometimes I see different names for everything below top and full.
The shoes I buy wont be used as a dress shoe with a suit as I said, but I guess they're technically still called a dress shoe.
And as I said I gotta go with something in a shop I can visit and try the shoes.
I think Ill go for the calf ones then.
I think Ill be able to pick between decent shoes that are similar looking & priced from either Loake or Lotusse. If you are familiar with those brands is one preferable to the other? Both calf, I guess the soles might be different on the shoes so I should go with what I want there? I wanted some rubber for durability so I was thinking rubber or combination sole.

>>18189508
forgot picrel

Best chinese bootmakers?

>>18189709
Grant Stone and its not even close

>>18189709
Iron Boots for top of the line and expensive. >>18189710 if you want something equivalent to good western makers but cheaper.

>>18189709
Iron Boots.

I don't know why I'm spending money wearing dress shoes and loafers to work when everybody just wears white sole sneakers or white sole loafers instead

I could just grab a few more $150 sneakers from Skolyx in various suede colours and call it a day, maybe a couple comfort loafers from TLB and that's it, no need for dress shoes besides a single pair of oxfords for that special occasion.

>>18189873
If you're dressing for others you shouldn't even be here.

>>18189709
depends what ur looking for? There's a lot of really good dressier makers in China. But i can vouch for Iron Boots if you want a Service Boot/something casual, good communication and very fast. Not cheap, but that's because they are actually good.

>>18189709
>>18189888
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/the-high-end-chinese-shoe-thread.665419/
here is a full thread to give you some ideas.

>>18189512
There is no leather quality ranking. If it's made of leather wouldn't that be genuine leather?

Some tanneries make great suedes, some make shit suedes. Some make good full grain, some make bad full grains. Full grain usually means no sanding the grain which is actually garbage for dress shoes or anything that needs uniformity. If you want waterproof you'd buy a waterproof tannage.

Just know your tannages.
If I'm buying a horween chromexcel shoe I know it's made with a horween chromexcel tannage. If I'm buying a cf stead kudu derby, I know it's cf stead kudu tannage. If I'm buying a grant stone I know it's an annonay box calf. Call loake or whoever you buy from and figure out the tannage they use for the upper.

Also for an oxford I'd always suggest a leather sole. If you want a long wing or derby you can pull off a toppy or maybe dainite soles.

Whatever shoe you end up buying figure out the upper tannage, if it has a real leather heel counter, and if it's good year welted. Also cork or felt filler, no foam. Those are vital to me.

Where can I buy a decent leather wallet that won't cost hundreds but also won't fall apart after a year?

>>18189954
etsy
do one of those leatherworking workshops and make your own

Is there a toecap or something that I can shove inside a boot to make it retain shape while wearing it?

>>18189709
Quan but they have a weird bespoke look.
Iron boots is good and so is grant stone.

>>18189981
unstructured meme claims another

>>18189954
I like popov and Ashland. Saddle stitched with good leather. But I heard there's a lot of good sellers on etsy.

>>18189907
>If it's made of leather wouldn't that be genuine leather?
This is the thought process that people buying boots on amazon follow. Anyone who knows about leather knows to steer novices away from "Genuine Leather" branded products.

>>18189954
I bought mine from Satchel and Page.

>>18189995
Why is it a meme or bad? I’ve been looking at Clinch boots and unstructured Bointy Hunters and they look cool

>>18190121
you're talking to the c*lastic shill

>>18190121
they get ugly when the toe collapses and the leather sits on your toes, very uncomfortable. Anon >>18189981
fell for the meme and now wants to change to a structured toe (possible, but very expensive to do)

>>18190117
Yeah but I don't imagine anyone here is dumb enough to buy a shoe without knowing the tannery that makes the upper leather. It's like buying a pc without knowing the internal parts

>>18189907
>>18190258
I never bought a shoe for this kinda money before (that's why Im investing in a pair now soon) so I just jumped in learning as much as I could about the external of the shoe and forgot to think about whats inside, except for the goodyear welting I did mention seeing written as information on the shoes. Reading about shoes online and watching a few shoe videos not once did I hear about tanneries and the upper leather tanning, so I did not know to think about this.
I have e-mailed Loake and asked them for details on the upper tannage, if the shoes have leather heel counter, and if the filler is cork, felt or foam.
I will post again when I get a reply from them.

do you even want an oxford or do you want a ptb?

>>18190295
PTB is more flexible

>>18190296
yeah and i dont think he wants or needs an oxford
just get a grant stone ptb and youll be fine

>>18190295
>>18190298
What I wanted was a medium less formal brown derby shoe, but somehow all the shoe stores in a reasonable area of me mostly have oxfords (in darker colors as suity dress shoes) and the derbies I did find were also black or very dark brown. So Im looking at mostly medium brown oxfords now as a result. I mean I don't know if the stores carry alot of shoes that don't show up on their websites or not, so before asking the stores I can only imagine that derby shoes aren't very popular around here.
Ive looked up these grant stone shoes, the Plain Toe Dune Chromexcel, Cap Toe Oxford - British Tan, and maybe even "Dirty Buck" all look nice and all-- but Ill say for a third time I have to buy something I can physically try in a store before buying, my feet are kinda wide so Im not blind buying expensive shoes online, I have searched online stores I can visit and there isn't a single result for grant stone, which also dont seem to have rubber soles on the ones I mentioned (?)

>>18190326
>and maybe even "Dirty Buck"
dirty buck is a fucking tease. i want obe so bad
>>18190326
>my feet are kinda wide
grant stone has you
they have e and eee and they'll talk to you on sizing reach out in email
>i dont want to
JUST DO IT
just fucking talk to them everything points you towards a grant stone ptb
you dont want or need an oxford

why does trenton and heath feel so absolutely soulless and corporate? is it because they're both former investment banker corpo douches trying to be "le hardworking salt of the earth cobblers"?
all of their videos feel like a commercial and they are always in a hurry. what the fuck are they hurrying for if they're filming a video? "hurr durr we can't do hot cork because we're running out of time so sheet cork it is". running out of time? nigga, it's your video. it's because youtube videos have a golden length proven to maximize engagement and thus profit and videos longer than that don't generate as much revenue. they managed to take something like cobbling shoes and make it corporate as well

compare them to wyatt and dad cobblers who absolutely ooze soul. family of cobblers who have been doing it all their lives because they're passionate and love it. amazing production value for such a small channel
and of course the OGs, steve from bedos and dan the cobbler. so comfy because it's so spartan and they're just there to make videos for fun.
trenton and heath somehow managed to make a channel about shoe cobbling as soulless as rose anvil or stridewise became

>>18190364
It’s the eyes. You cant fake authenticity.

>>18190122
Literally 90% of the people in this thread wears shoes with celastic toe puff.
How about being an adult for once and learn to size properly dumbass.

>>18190258
Nobody knows the tannery of Trickers. Northampton brands do not outright state their tanneries.
Before 2013 ish, nobody knows or cares that white’s uses Seidel.
This is just leddit culture leaking.

>>18190371
caring about tanneries is peak reddit bugposting. nobody cared about what fucking tannery made something as long as the leather was nice
now people are buying shoes based off the tannery the leather is from and that's going too far

>>18190431
Now I can see how bad the upper stitching is.
The welt also looks shit, scratched up.

I stepped into a puddle and my feet got soaked. The squeak that developed in my vibergs seems to have gone away.

>>18190502
If your boots squeak try drying the inside of your boots with power or a dryer and then use a generous amount of leather conditioner on the inside. Leave it to settle and wipe with a clean cloth on the inside

>>18190506
Ok I just ordered some Venetian shoe cream. They’re about ready for a conditioning anyway.

>>18190502
>I stepped into a puddle and my feet got soaked.
>he fell for the stitchdown meme

>>18190554
Less of a puddle and more of 4-5 inch deep pools of water on both sides of my truck. I had no choice but to wade through the waters. Bergs are only 5 inch tall and the gusset is lower.

>>18190554
Is goodyear welt stitching somehow waterproof?

>>18189907
Ok the reply is in, and teh answer was.
tannage = "All shoes are made from chrome tanned calf leather from various tanneries". I assume you won't like the "various tanneries" part.

Heel = "heel stiffener is made from celastic that shapes well around the heel as soon as you start wearing them"
You are against this celastic stuff?

Filling = cork.
So at least that one is OK.

Ill keep looking around for now, found a website here that actually has some derby shoes. 50% sale on a pair of Church's but not my size kek. I will keep in mind the grant stone thing but will use it as a plan B or C

>>18190502
k
keep us posted

I want to buy the solovair gibbon or doc 1461 mono, are there any better options or do i just play roulette with solovair QC?
I know they're not great but i haven't found any alternative. Even the redwing postman is too far off for my taste.
And yes i'm buying a 10 year old /fa/ meme, fuck you i like it.

DOES anyone know any cheaper alternative to alden's 986? or at least how this specific color is called because I can't find anything alike

>>18190716
Looks like burgundy.

>>18190716
Grant Stone makes their Traveler loafer in a lot of different leathers.Try them maybe

>>18190756
yes but like exceptionally dark burgundy
>>18190827
didnt find what I was looking for but thanks nonetheless

>>18190620
Celastic heel counters suck. You want real leather, especially in the 400$ price range.

I'd suggest keep looking around.

Church's used to make awesome shoes, though I feel like they're not nearly as relevant as they used to be. Maybe try allen edmonds too if there's one near you?

Grant stone has great value and a good return policy. Just don't crease the vamp

>>18190716
the color is called "color 8" and is really only specific to horween's shell cordovan, it is hard to describe because it changes depending on how light hits it and is a mix of burgundy, dark brown and slight purple
there is a color 8 chromexel but it's not even close to the same shade

i would just get the alden, becuse it's really the best college loafer pattern in production right now and aldens LHS loafers are becoming rarer and harder to get
the 986 is a classic for a reason
if you want alternatives carlos santos emerson, carmina pina, crockett and jones harvard

>>18190716
that particular model is shell cordoan in colour #8 there is no cheaper alternative, there are pale imitations but the deep burgundy with the sheen is unique to shell

>>18190871
Good luck getting leather heel counter from legacy brands without spending $700 at least

EU bros, give me recommendations for local brands or at least brands that are easily found here.

>>18191170
First of all, fuck the EU. Second, where are you in Europe? We can recommend you local manufacturers.

>>18190955
>>18190967
thanks brothers

>>18191170
Too many to mention without knowing what you're looking for.

>>18190716
>cheaper
Doesn't exist. But even better is Crockett and Jones Harvard loafers

plain toe floyd last please

if all my footbeds are prefect but the facings are close enough that i need a kiltie for the right fit how do i adjust sizing? this is across multiple brands
down length up width? up length down width?
cut my feet off? die?

>>18191426
going down half size, up width always works out for round toe lasts
paradoxically doing that with pointy lasts you may get toe squish, even if you are "going up a width" technically, in reality the width stays the same and the length of the boot shortens, which means the ball of the foot sits farther forward than intended and you get less toe space in front

King of the shit kickers

>>18192017
stolen velour

White's really do just look like someones 5th pair they made.

>>18192169
that'll be $1300 + tip

>>18192169
>>18192171
oof

>>18192169
>>18192171
>shell
don't know why they keep doing them

>>18192169
>>18192171
this looks bad

>>18192215
What's wrong with shell?

>>18192169
>>18192171
the guy said they can "compete" with Viberg

There is an anon here who has waxi boots right?
What do you think about them?
Didn't you kinda hate them?

>>18192171
the edges are trimmed way too close and left completely unfinished
it's so close that whoever did the sanding frayed the tops of the stitches

also if this guy doesn't get topys on these leather soles immidiately, then good fucking luck getting these resoled

Anyone have painful bunions like me but still want to wear nice shit? What do you wear?

Are all American bootmakers garbage?

Are all Euro bootmakers garbage?

Boots are garbage.

>>18192107
My brother gave them to me when he got out of the Marines in 2015. They are goretex lined and very practical in northeast winters.

>>18192226
I've seen someone post them here before a few years ago

I wish I could afford these - How do we feel about Paraboots? I mean, they're barley boots but close enough

>>18192169
>>18192171
>that welt stitching
Lmao. Let this shit brand die off already

>>18192245
They are now since they charge too much and don't have any workers

>>18192294
Do they still make that JM Weston 180 loafer clone? They call it the Adonis or something

>>18192169
am i crazy or are those jeans too loose for those boots?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKTKmWS9VMo
Mogs the shit out of that faggot Stridewise and all the other reddit types

>>18192410
True but I think he should be viciously slaughtered for starting every video by prostrating to abos though.

>>18192169
>>18192171
What the hell do you expect when White's own site has stitching like this on their shop page.

>>18192410
yeah, although we have a very different definition of "business casual"

>>18192466
These are hot, what are they?

>>18192525
Looks like Redwings beckman to me.

>>18192531
Nvm it's viberg lmao

Are there any well made “heritage” boots that aren’t stupidly expensive?

>>18192537
red wing

>>18192537
What is stupidly expensive for you?
I'd say Parkhurst, Grant Stone and Truman.

>>18192245
No. Red Wing and Russell Moccasin are great. The truth is that Red Wing is the beginning and the end of boots, and going beyond them is mostly just a cope. Unless you need something much more dressy but then you got other old American makers like Alden or Allen Edmonds.

>>18192169
>>18192171
Luckily for him he probably got 5 pairs from White's alone so he'll never have to resole them anyway.

>>18192604
>Uses cope wrong
You're trying too hard to fit in

>>18192235
Ever heard of a pumice stone

>>18192626
you going to grind off the bone with pumice?

>>18192228
The new guy took "close trim" too literal.

>>18192631
I think he doesn't know what a bunion is. I mean you can try using stretching the shoes to accommodate the deformed shape, have surgery or getting wider shoes.

>>18192224
Competition of the most expensive boots that are not even bespoke. Imagine throwing away that kind of money and not even getting fully bespoke items based entirely on your measurements.

And why have so many almost identical boots? Just have a couple with the highest quality you can comfortably afford, you'll be happier just by using them and not having to complete a "collection".

thinking in getting conistin's from c&j, but i cannot justify paying €700 for my first pair of boots.

any alternatives that look similar in the same style? must be all black and based in europe

>>18192757
Loake sedbergh, made in England.
Myrqvist Abisko, made in Portugal.

>>18192790
>Myrqvist Abisko
>Offbrand daynite soles
Oof

>>18192959
You get what you pay for when you cheap out. They're going to cut corner where they can.

>>18192992
berwick has a very close coniston clone with genuine dainite.

https://berwickshoes.com/gb/321-k2-country-calf-niger.html
but getting those instead if C&J is just pure cope.

>>18192495
Can someone more autistic than me please point out the issue here?

>>18193078

>>18193093
What exactly is the issue (other than cosmetic)

>

>>18193138
I'd take the LOW SPI like>>18192169
over high SPI like>>18193138

>>18192687
No I actually have a bunion. Wide width shoes help a little but not really. Usually the toe box stays the same. The only shoes that help are open toe sandals and barefoot shoes. But both are ugly.

This seems to be shoes as well as boots, Trickers is having a sale are these worth £350? They seem nice, never had Trickers before.

>>18193284
yes

and shoes are just short boots

>>18193285
Thanks, ordered, was basically looking for any validation to spend money - trying to up my shoe game.

>>18193078
the stitching looks amateurish as fuck

>>18193078
>>18193095
The boots are White's Semi-Dress. They cost $710. They're not work or fire boots, you buy them because you like the way they look. If I spent that much on boots made purely for their fashion aesthetic and had them arrive looking like that I'd be pissed and I hope anyone else would too. If for whatever reason you decided to buy these purely for their functionality instead of White's less expensive work boot options then they'd probably be fine, but as I mentioned above, that's not why you buy these.

>>18193284
>Vibram gumlite
Ya fucked up g, big time.

is guidi ACTUALLY worth it?

>>18193394
not at retail but worth it at 50% off a sucker who fell for the meme

what are a good set of boots for casual wear, like under jeans and a sweatshirt, I'm getting sick of going through 2 pairs of sneakers every year and would rather have a good set of boots that'll last me through all the seasons

>>18193406
red wing blacksmiths

>>18193138
$2000 + tip please

>>18193362
gumlite is good though

>>18193141
>high spi

>>18193399
what's a good alternative? love the anklewrap appeal

>>18193457
Their SPI is so nuts you don't even have to name the brand.

>>18189037
alright /btg/ so if i want thursday captains but they're fucking shit, what are my options for the same look, style, and similar price? in australia btw if that helps

>>18193556
Fucking RM Williams, imagine buying one of the single most awful boots that are made in Mexico shipping all the way to Australia of all places and living in the same country as one of the most iconic boot manufacturer in the world. Fucking media, man. I swear kids these days are so fucking idiotic and gullible.

In B4 I want the look of a service boot. I'm sure they make something similar and much better.

>>18193585
>RM Williams
>two hundred chelsea variants and maybe two pairs of lace up boots

>>18193556
grant stone? desu thursday is not that bad for the price. if you want better you will have to pay more

>>18193585
>ask for thursday captains (lace ups)
>recommend RM Williams, fucking THE chelsea boot maker
retard. their lace ups suck ass and are chunky as hell compared to the thursday captain's smoother, dresser profile. they're also almost double the price. terrible rec

>>18193601
>>18193730
Kindly step aside retards. Either save or find a way to make more money. Rmw is easily the best recommendation possible.

>>18193556
Thursday Captains actually look like dogshit when you know what a good boot looks like and actually look at the boots and not promo shots.

Anyway if you want cheap made in China that's still decent try Meermin or Grant Stone maybe.

imagine buying lace up boots when chelseas fit better, are more comfy and quicker.

>>18194134
No ankle support.

>>18194144
is anyone actually buying these to do real work though? i'm just doing some shopping and going to the pub.

>>18194149
At work in my Wesco LTT rn, so yes.

>>18194134
not a huge fan of Chelseas, but I saw some python Chelseas the other day that looked good

>>18194097
Meermin is dogshit
Never again. It's been 2 years and I still have a scar on my heels from the blisters because of their shitty plastic heel counters

>>18193093
I'm still not seeing the issue. Is it the little bits of leather on the welt?
>>18193314
Can you post an example of acceptable stitching?
>>18193331
I see so it's just a finishing issue people have with it. I think I get it now.

>>18194134
They look like ladies boots though

>>18194134
Do they really fit better? Every image I see posted online shows a huge gap between the shaft of the boot and the wearer's leg.

>>18194406
>posted from my iPhone

How do you clean semen stains from suede?

>>18194971
Add more semen to create a marbled effect.

>>18190871
Hey bro Im back again with some news.on my shoehunting
I was losing hope that Id be able to find many of qualities I would like (and that you've told me about) below 500 bucks in a place I could try the shoes first.

I found an actual derbyshoe at a shoemaker shop (they also have a workshop for shoe repairs) not just a shoe slop store in a shopping mall) that isnt the usual super formal darkbrown/black Im seeing alot online,
@400 bucks, and I talked to the store (that I can go visit) about the shoes, so hopefully the terms translate to english without confusion. There are some good and some bad, i thought it's mostly good, like the shoe might actually have some quality.

+Goodyear-welted in Portugal from a factory that only does private labels who they have worked with for 10 years.

+Cork filling under the leather binding sole, so no foam shit.

+ Shoe is calf skin/leather (I get confused when youre supposed to say skin or leather).

- "I dont know what tanneries deliver the skin". So that's kinda like Loake in the sense that its just vaguely "various tanneries".

-?
"Synthetic heel cap".
Is this the basically the same as "celastic"? or is it just fake leather heel cap instead of "real leather".so it would basically function the same?

They invited me to visit and look at more shoes that werent online perhaps, so for that visit I would like to ask, if they cant say which tannery tans the shoes, if they could say how they are tanned.
And when they say how the shoe is tanned I would like to have your opinion for reference. For example so far ive heard vegetable (oil??) tanned, chrome tanned etc.
Which of these methods to tan the leather are good/bad/preferable, does it matter?

>>18195414
synthetic means celastic

>>18195414
Imagine being this retarded and autistic lmao lel even

>>18194899
Samsung S7 actually

>>18195444
yea thats what i was afraid would be the case, thanks.

>>18195451
Why so insecure? I dont even want to imagine being you. lol kek lmao!! thats you sitting there typing that, the irony of you calling someone else retarded and autistic.
All I know about shoes I learned in the last 7 days here. Normally for a practical cheap pair of shoes I dont need to know anything.other than if they look and feel good or not.

>>18195487
He's literally an aspie and this is his sperg focus. He repeats the same phrases in every thread. Be patient with him. He doesn't have the faculties to understand that normal people don't possess his autistic knowledge base on this useless subject. He's probably the one who wrote the OP and included childish things like "Doc Shitters/Soloshitters" and "Turdsdays" and his weird aversion to cork. Just know he'll never be OK and treat him like you would someone with a disability.

My MTOs arrived finally. Any guesses /btg?

>>18195609
>box still in relative good shape
not some SEA maker i think

>>18195615
Definitely not

>>18195623
Nice, can you do me a favor and measure the shaft height on the Thorpe?

>>18189037
I am giving serious thought to getting a pair of chelsea boots from Iron Boots, but I cannot decide on leather. Part of me wants to get it all black with Guidi leather but I also like this grey waxed kudu. Problem for me is that they only do black edging on black boots and I think it would look much nicer to have the edging be black here instead of brown or natural. What do you guys think?

>>18195615
>>18195623
>>18195651

>>18195651

>>18195670
Thanks, I guess it's just the pattern but it looks taller than 6 inches to me.

>>18195669
nice

>>18195672
The Thorpe is nicely proportioned. The narrow shaft and more eyelets make it appear taller.

>>18195674
Thanks

What's the point of dress boots? Boots are supposed to be for working, for trekking, for things that actually require you to have resilient footwear with extra protection and/or insulation. A dress shoe with a long shaft just makes you look like a poser, what are you too cool to just use normal dress shoes like everyone else?

>>18194134
>>18194406
heels too high?
2 inch block heels with vibram 100 are pretty massive. but they don't look like ladies boots.

>>18195669
is that the horween hatch grain? The apron is perfect.

>>18195414
>how the shoe is tanned
Leather is either tanned using vegetable tanning, chrome tanning or a combination of the two. Vegetable tanning uses natural materials to tan the leather. The end result is usually stiffer and more durable than chrome tan. Some people like veg tan leather for boots because it has great depth of color and patinas really nicely but it can require more care and it's possible to get stains if you're not careful. Chrome tanning uses chromium salts to tan the leather and leads to a softer, more flexible leather. Chrome tanned leather is much more static than veg tanned and will keep a consistent color. Combination tanning uses a mix of the two to try and get the best of both, but the output will vary based on the qualities that the tannery is aiming to achieve with the combination process being used.

How is Oak Street compared to Redwing and Truman?

>>18196029
You'll get
>an ugly last (same as RW)
>expect shit clicking
>exposed welt stitching
and all that for more money than either of them.

>>18196029
>>18196092
they now use foam as cavity filler (same as truman), red wing uses cork
oak street also use thinned down CXL on their boots
https://youtu.be/34izwN7ywaE&t=390
unfortunately you can't get a boot without corners being cut at that price range
truman is the best out of those, also grant stone is worth checking out, but their rubber soles flake apart at the toe frequently

>>18196130
why is he saying this is brown cxl? That looks like burgundy.

>>18196135
because that's how brown cxl is sometimes and other times it's more of a true brown or dark tan brown
same with color 8 cxl, sometimes a dark burgundy or even a bright cherry red
horween doesn't give a fuck about color consistency between batches and just mixes the dyes how they feel like at the time

What's the best sole for city walking? Wedge?

>>18195839
winter?

>>18196130
>they now use foam as cavity filler (same as truman)
>oak street also use thinned down CXL on their boots

at what point do we give up on american brands?

>>18196210
What alternative is there? European brands don't make the same workwear style of boots, and they also probably suck if you're not paying close to a grand for a pair.

>>18196227
chyna
I still maintain that if grant stone got a few 55 lasts they'd put whites and nicks out of business in 6 months
franks would live and wesco is for japs anyways

>>18196024
>more durable
Redditors love to parrot this but the truth is chrome tan is way more durable than veg.
Also, chrominum salt is natural.

>>18196029
oakstreet is trash, my trumans are better finished than vibergs, i have no experience with redwing

>>18195839
What's a dress boot? Where do you draw the line?

>>18195839
>what are you too cool
yes

>>18196239
There's no way GS has better QC.

>>18196310
They have QC, which is already better than PNW makers.

>>18195839
>what is winter

>>18196186
>>18196315
Winter is 3 months out of a year, and those dressy boots only stand up to mild winters.

>>18196327
>Winter is 3 months out of a year
confirmed for nonwhite

>>18195654
I'm a fashion retard, but I'd prefer black edging on the grey kudu.

>>18196327
Winter starts in October here and ends in March or April.

>>18196347
Winter winter, or "it's less than 30ºC outside so I can finally wear my boots again" winter?

>>18196310
they actually have good QC because they are produced in a chinese factory on contract, but stored, inspected and shipped out of a US warehouse
chyna vs US aside it's better just by virtue of having someone not involved in producing the boot put their eyes on them and doing the QC

what's not great about it is that the faggots in the US insist on conditioning the boots with VSC before shipping, which is questionable to do to a new boot by itself, but they do an absolutely half-assed job
the shoes i got from them had hazy brush streaks of white wax all over and the right shoe was a whole shade darker than the left
this wasn't a clicking issue, because it wasn't one or two panels of leather that were darker it was the whole shoe and with time and a lot of brushing it evened out, still noticable if you know to look for it
basicly they put the VSC on a brush smear it in one boot and what's left of it on the brush gets smeared into the other boot, which will always be uneven

>>18196360
It snows nearly every Halloween, and November can be hit or miss, December hits -30 C pretty regularly. Last year was pretty mild and we actually had a Fall season thru Oct/Nov.

>>18196379
And you're out for a significant amount of time on -30ºC weather with dress leather boots?

>>18196310
literally one of the only makers that you can say mistakes are genuine mistakes
not to mention half of those are people getting assmad about creasing on hormeme cxl, the most wrinkly cow known to man, that they got for $350 yet expect viberg tier clicking and wasting half the hide

>>18196384
If I had actual dress boots yea, all my boots have commando soles because it snows so much so they don't really fall into the dress category. Shit I wear my boots when its 30C out anyways, probably going to wear my cowboy boots out today after I finish splitting some fire wood.

>>18196327
so you are poor, uncultured and tasteless?

some like fancy boots, whether they meet your criteria for usage or not.

not a boot but I got a pair of TLB's "comfort" loafers with a rubber sole and I should have done it sooner, it really is the most comfy shoe I've ever worn

10/10 every day office shoe in summer, I'll buy a second pair at some point
Also I really need to get a chelsea this autumn, laceless footwear is just the bomb

mine are in dark brown suede and the soles aren't bright white, it's a bit more yellow/brownish

>>18196412
I forgot to say, I had to use a tongue pad
I also had to use a tongue pad on my only other loafers from Enzo Bonafe though

Last chance to grab this GMTO on Skoak website btw

It's sick but I didn't pull the trigger in the end
I'm afraid it will look too dressy to be versatile because of the last and pattern, even though the combo is cool

>>18196336
Maybe I'll ask them if they can do an exception and do black edging. Although by the time I can get around to ordering them they might oos for either of those leathers.

>>18196419
I wanted to but haven't received another pair on the same last yet. Can't tale the risk of 2 pairs not fitting.

>>18196419
already got 2 MTO's in production. Gonna take a while since the factory isn't working in August.

>>18195954
Nope. G&G doesn’t use anything Horween anymore.

>>18195839
I work and trek in dress boots. You realize the majority of people buying pnw work boots don’t actually work in them? They only buy them to put faux patinas on them.

>>18196479
not a dress boot imo

>>18196479
scotch grain?

anyone making their own boots here?

>>18196496
one guy but he hasn't posted in a while

>>18196495
Waxed rough out

>>18196479
"dress boots" and "work boots" and "smart casual boots" and whatever stupid label people make isn't real. you can literally go hiking in whatever you want
only thing that matters is the sole

>>18196506
Wrong. As usual. Stop posting.

>>18196479
Why is C&J so opposed to gusseted tongues though? It would be a vastly superior boot if it was gusseted to the third eyelet like Tricker's.

>>18189037
Not sure if I should ask in this topic or elsewhere, but I can't pick between maple suede or beeswax for those Padmore wallabees. Already had troubles to decide between leather or suede and between shoe or boot. I'm planning on wearing them with olive and khaki chinos if that helps

>>18196503
Boot-related casualty
Very sad
Many such creases

>>18192294
Very high quality, waterproof, still made in France, good value for money.

>>18196531
maple

>>18196540
So the right one? Yeah I think I'll go for this one, it was its first historical color after all

>>18196505
hell yeah brother

>>18196527
No idea. You can ask for it to be gusseted on a mto but they’ll charge you extra. Or just buy Edward Green or Gaziano & Girling.

>>18196527
they do gusseted tongues, just not on most models.

>>18196496
sure thing, you just need
>a last
>upper leather
>lining leather
>insole/bottoming leather
>welt leather
>a sewing machine
>sewing thread for uppers
>thread for inseaming and outsole
>pitch or hard wax for the inseaming/outseaming thread
>leather glue
>rubber cement
>a hole punch for eyelets
>eyelets
>a press die set to crimp the eyelets
>a shoemaking/utility knife if you don't want to also get the more specific knives like a feathering/holdfast carving knife, sole trimming/lip knife
>a hammer
>lasting pliers
>lasting nails
>a shank
>leather edge groover
>inseaming awl
>outseaming awl
>awl holder
>2 curved needles for handstitching
>nails/tacks
>wooden pegs for heels if your last doesn't have a metal plate underneath to crimp clinch nails
>some kind of sole and top lift
>fudge wheel/stitch marker/compass and a stitch groover to make the outsole stitch look even and clean(er)
>edge dye
>gum trag/tokonole/beeswax for edge finish
>blood, sweat and tears
check the prices on these for yourself and add it all up, see if you want to take the plunge then
this is all to make a ghetto looking boot, that's completely unwearable, the pattern sucks, the lasting is crooked, the stitching is janky, because you have no idea what you're doing

>>18196531
left

>>18196620
Not what he asked, autismo.

>>18196620
this is why i have no hobbies

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2024/07/seven-boat-shoes-compared-quoddy-yuketen-paraboot-sebago-castellano-polo-loro-piana.html

>>18196513
are you crying you fucking pussy?

red wing pecos 1155 just got a limited euro release
poron insole though

>>18193457
>>18193502
who can resole these? just the manufacturer? or where would you send them? the welt stitching looks like a nautical rope

>>18197169
the manufacturer, viberg, stopped resoling their own boots 2 years ago, because it's almost impossible to get a clean result with a machine stitcher, where they restitch through every original hole and don't have one row of stitching jump into the other row
pic is a resole from viberg and the reason why they don't bother anymore
they now have only 2 authorized repair shops worldwide: devitos and bakers, both machine stitch
there are non-authorized cobblers that will do it, but giving them to someone who has never worked on them is a sure way to get burned

the only real way to resole them is to handsitich the sole and most cobblers won't do it

>>18197211
>the manufacturer, viberg, stopped resoling their own boots 2 years ago, because it's almost impossible to get a clean result with a machine stitcher
is viberg retarded? why not reduce spi if you cant even resole it?

Should I spend my college grant on Guidi backzip horse leather? Pic is reverse calf Inaisce highlander boots

>>18197219
then they lose their identity

>>18197219
dunno, i think the high spi looks worse too, i wish they went back to a normal spi.
Anyway, 99% of vibergs customer base will never wear the sole down enough to require a resole.

Is there any store in New York or Los Angeles sells Truman boots?

>>18197219
they are reacting to it somewhat and have changed all boot and shoe models from stitchdown to goodyear welt, besides the Service Boot(r), small consolation since that is still 80% of their catalog

>>18197245
Butterscotch LBC kinda doss I know they had a collab boot with them, probably sold out by now and I don't think theysell any anymore cause Truman went to 100% direct to consumer.

>>18197211
unsung and wyatt cobblers will both hand stitch vibergs - obviously incurring additional cost

>>18197290
I just checked their website. They only have a few pairs left.
Man I want to try those boots on my feet before buying

>>18197363
I'd wear them just to fuck with people that have trypophobia.

>>18197369
im not bold enough

>>18197294
i hear that unsung has a year long waiting list for mail-ins, so you have to reserve a spot before your boot even needs a resole
their work is worth it though

>>18197221
Yes, education is overrated.

>>18189037
Shill me cheap but durable brown derbies

>>18197637
Patkhurst

>>18196436
>Maybe I'll ask them if they can do an exception and do black edging
You can buy a tub of the edging dye with applictor for $15 on eBay, tape off the boot so you don't accidentally stain the upper and do it yourself.
It's about the easiest possibly boot related thing to diy other then standard maintenance stuff like cleaning and putting leather cream on

>>18197221
I like those in your pic. Anyone know something similar a little more attainable?

>>18196179
Wedge or any kind of very soft sole. I have some shoes with Vibram vi-lite soles and they as may well be wedges with how soft they are.

>>18197701
do you have gumlite too? Always wondered what the difference between the 2 are. Definitely agree on it being a really good sole for the city, but i still prefer single leather.

>>18197809
I don't own any shoes with gumlite but comparing the two in a store the vi-lite is definitely squishier. My guess is that the vi-lite sole will wear down much quicker than gumlite in exchange for the even softer feel underfoot.

>>18197637
Rancourt

https://www.rancourtandcompany.com/collections/spring-summer-2024-pre-sale/products/pre-order-camden-derby-carolina-brown-chromexcel

>>18197840
interesting, will see if i can snag a pair of tricker's on vi-lite during a sale on the outlet.

>>18191170
take a look at
Urban Shepherd - poortugal
Dergoiserer - analstria

>>18191170
Bright shoemakers

Is John Lofgren gusseted? Can soneone share opinions on their boots? Their combat boots look nice.

>>18189037
Shoes like those without the cringe screws? I just love the shape of it, does it have a name

>>18197917
They aren't gussetted. Their stuff is nice and I had 2 pairs from them. A natural roughout donkey puncher and brown horsebutt ludlow. the most impressive part of them was how the leather clicking on my pairs were just about perfect. There was basically no visible creasing on the donkey punchers and the ludlows just had a single, fine crease, across the forefoot. They weren't perfect overall though, I had 2 major issues with them. On the donkey punchers it felt like the left boot was just missing the cork and was extremely hard underfoot. The ludlows had a bigger issue, the rolled top on my right boot was rolled inward instead of outward at one section in the back. If I didn't wear a bandage it would rub the top of my ankle raw even through thick, wool, socks. Sold both of them on because they just weren't comfortable to wear. I could have just gotten 2 lemons, but that was my experience with them. Plenty of other people have good things to say and outside those issues they were very nice.

>>18197923
Longwing brogue shoes. Don't know a company offhand making a chunky, lugged version without the screws.

>>18197931
I only have a pair of their engineers, they're pretty alright. Still prefer my wescos over them

>sickly green/grey boots
hey at least it ain't a japan/euro exclusive

>>18197934
Out of the 2 I really miss the donkey punchers. The left boot was like walking on a cinder block but the other one was nice. I also liked how the natural roughout was picking up dye from any time I wore jeans with them. The shaft was getting a nice marbling effect of blue and tan from the areas that bent outward rubbing against the jeans.

>>18197933
Thank you! Ah it's a shame, I also read that gripfast was shit quality, so I'll go for something else I guess

G&G’s square deco last is becoming one of my favorites. Might need a shell version of the Urban Commando now.

>>18197923
Tricker's make brogues with commando soles often, but their sizing is just horrendous. If I were you I'd just buy those gripfast and call it a day.

>>18198041
Yeah, I always had issues with their sizing and their lasts, tried so many and nothing was really comfortable for me. I don't think they are the most anatomical thing out there and my toes always felt constricted. I also tried stretching them but they just did not give. And I also feel like I'm done with heavy brogues.

I ended selling all of them for a few bucks just to get rid of them and bought 4: iron boots, Crockett and Jones, Alden, Vibergs and couldn't be happier. I realized a bit too late that is better to have the best I can afford instead of having a lot just because they were cheaper or on sale. I end up using what I have and enjoy them instead of having a lot of boxes to stare at.

On my wish list I have:
Navy blue chukka boots, like CJ Chiltern but they don't make them in my size
Black teacore service boots, like Vibergs on the 2040
Dark brown grain leather longwings, I tried carmina and I liked them better than CJ but they are super super narrow
Medium brown Penny loafers in shell, maybe CJ Harvards

>>18198041
I read too much bad things about hi-shine leather so I decided to buy those solovair in gaucho leather instead. A bit less stylish but I don't want it to die too quickly

>>18197701
Lugs are a big no-no, it's annoying as fuck to get pebbles stuck in them and then you feel them when you step and they might scratch hardwood floors.

>>18197691
Ann Demuelemeester makes a similar style you can cop second hand on Grailed for cheap

>>18198380
Thanks, I’m a man though.

>>18198768
nice

are these womens boots?

>>18198850
no they're jodphurs

>>18195670
Impeccable taste, anon. Was this a custom build? If so I really want to copy this.

>>18195670
that suede looks nice

>>18198850
No, but to me it feels like they only work with a very specific aesthetic. It doesn't feel like a versatile shoe but, even more than other shoes, I suppose that depends on leather and last shape.

>>18198921
>>18198926
Thanks. I’ve been after a pair of Thorpes and G&G hosted one of their trunk shows near me so it’s a custom MTO. I wanted something a but different from the stock Thorpe so went with the suede shafts. Next time they’re in town I’m either going to do a commando chelsea build or start the bespoke process on a balmoral boot.

>>18198968
how do you drive in these?
the clutch would kill the toe

>>18198994
It’s not an issue but I don’t have a manual car anymore let alone a sports car with a small footwell. The only boot I’m actually careful with are my alligator Burnhams.

>>18199006
>I don’t have a manual car anymore let alone a sports car with a small footwell
anon pls

>>18198994
i can drive manual in boots with double midsoles and command soles, if anything a boot like that would be easier. i'd just be worried about excessive creasing.

>>18199026
>if anything a boot like that would be easier
theres so much shit under the dash ive scraped my toes and the footrest is 1/2 under the pedal so i rest my foot on the ground

the real issue is retying after you get to work because the driving works your shoes loose

>>18199027
i usually leave most or all the speedhooks untied, so thats not actually an issue for me.

>>18199028
>me doing a quadruple loop with grant stone laces

>>18199026
>>18199027
>>18199038
>Not changing to driving mocs everytime you have to drive.
You are not going to make it.

Femanons, I just want you to know that I'm not a pervert, I'm just Italian.

>>18199074
You change in and out of your boots every time you want to step in or out of your car? That sounds annoying.

>>18198994
>He doesn't drive an EV
It's 2024

>>18199112
I enjoy polluting

>>18199103
>Wake up
>Put on boots to go to work
>Get into car and change to driving mocs
>Reach job site and change to boots again
>Time to hit the gym
>Get into car, take boots off and put on driving mocs
>Get to the gym, take off mocs and put on some sneakers
>19 changes of footwear later I'm in my slippers ready to sleep and start over again
>I love all my shoes

solovair's astronauts greasy similar alternatives, but higher quality? i've read enough around to be absolutely convinced solovair's quality control is beyond atrocious.

Hi /btg/, I need a shoe horn for my 8 eye derby boots. This is one of those items that is hard to buy in person these days. Can you recommend one that is either made to last/made in Europe, without being super premium?

>>18199472
cheap ones are gonna be made of plastic
mid/high tier will be made of natural horn/wood

don't know any europoor shops but kirby allison sells a variety from low to high

>>18199477
Wood sounds great. Seeing a bunch of stuff made in Germany/China from different woods. Might get something hand carved off Etsy

>>18199472
Skolyx is usually my go-to for shoe care stuff.

>>18199477
I have that exact shoe horn and it is the best one I’ve used for boots. Thin without being flimsy and not obnoxiously huge. 10/10 would buy again.

>>18199472
Buy one from Ikea for a couple dollars made of steel that will never break.

>>18199553
kek that shit bent within the first three weeks

shoe horns are a meme
undo your laces

>>18199564
where is your god now

>>18199553
my plastic one survived for like 10 years, got the steel one recently and dropped it on my toe, hurt like shit.

>>18199564
I do, but the material on the heel always seems to get shredded in boots. I want to make it last longer.

wtf

>>18199610
A new rose anvil collaboration atrocity?

>>18189037
Grabbed these Russell and Bromley boots for $70 on Ebay, and they fit perfectly. Not sure why anyone got rid of them to be honest.

>>18199772
they didnt welt that shit

>>18199772
probably the obnoxious orange

NEW
>>18199840
>>18199840

NEW
>>18199840
>>18199840

>>18199598
>hurt like shit
What did he mean by this?