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/fa/ - Fashion


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File: 201 KB, 900x1347, B80A3E3C-E19E-4A37-9E90-D6CCC66E02E5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15672388 No.15672388 [Reply] [Original]

This thread is for the well dressed man and those seeking to improve their dress by exploring colors, patterns, textures and other styles while appearing more mature, elegant and refined.
>What is “sprezzatura”?
Required viewing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QG4lTMjWtY&feature=youtu.be [Open]
Required reading: https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2017/02/24/how-obsession-with-sprezzatura-can-kill-the-sprezzatura/
>Do I have to be European to wear this style?
Absolutely not. Anyone can wear this as long as they are confident and don’t care what people think. You should be dressing for yourself, not for others. Is this style more common in Italy and other Mediterranean countries? Absolutely. But you could wear this wherever you are.
>How is this different than Trad/Ivy/Prep?
Whereas the /TIP/ threads favor classic styles and tailoring, wider fits and more drape, Mediterranean and modern menswear favors slimmer cuts, tailored closer to the body to accentuate and flatter your body. Slim fit is allowed and in many cases encouraged.
>Where should I start?
Start with sport coats and mix and match with trousers. Experiment with colors and patterns. Don’t be afraid of color. This isn’t business style, where bland conformity is the norm. We want to be colorful, and experiment with fabrics. Wear linen, wool, cotton, anything you want.
>Where can I find good inspo to draw from?
https://www.instagram.com/giorgiogiangiulio/
https://www.instagram.com/davidgandy_official/
https://www.instagram.com/carlos_domord/
https://www.instagram.com/parisian_gentleman/
https://www.instagram.com/fadiblanc59/
https://www.instagram.com/fabioattanasio/
https://www.instagram.com/justusf_hansen/
https://www.instagram.com/jcl.84/
https://www.instagram.com/franz_1955/
https://www.instagram.com/danilocarnevale/
https://www.instagram.com/thewomaninatie/
https://www.instagram.com/sonyaglyn/?hl=en

Previous: >>15653286

>> No.15672616

Everyone says non-iron is shit. Can you actually tell apart non-iron/iron shirts and trousers just by looking at them? Or is how they wear the only difference?

>> No.15672716

>>15672616
It's just a dumb menswear meme like stories about clothes falling apart.

>> No.15672764

>>15672616
Its a meme. Non-iron isn't real. They just treat the clothes with formaldehyde that washes away after 2-3 washes. Then your clothes will be just as wrinkled as the iron-versions.

>> No.15672780

>>15672616
What is non iron?

>> No.15672854

Why did you make a thread when the other one had 80+ replies to go? Stop shitting things up and get with the program

>> No.15673519
File: 222 KB, 1505x1890, CSR0807KWH_a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15673519

Are collarless shirts gay?

>> No.15673525

>>15673519
yep

>> No.15673871

Where should I look to get chelsea boots and loafers as a yurofag? Thereäs some australian company that apparently makes great boots, hoping to find something similar over here

>> No.15674005

>>15672388
Knitted jackets are awful and should never have happened. Can't wait for that fad to go away.

>> No.15674104

>>15674005
I agree, but the garment in OP's pic looks like a nice cardigan that does not try to be a jacket with notch lapels and all that.

>> No.15674105

>>15674104
true

>> No.15674138

>>15673871
Are you dense? Most good stuff is from Europe. Did you even bother to search?

>> No.15674145
File: 55 KB, 1366x768, 1q4fl7.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15674145

>>15672388
>jeans

>> No.15674154

>>15673871
>where should i find shit boots and the most generic and available shoe type short of the capped toe oxford?

>> No.15674165

>>15674005
same
tf u on OP pic ain’t a knitted jacket

>> No.15674357

Why is it every time I see someone wearing no show socks or sock less they have hairless legs? Do I have to shave my legs to pull off this look?

>> No.15674408

>>15674357
>shaving legs
Only if you're looking to populate your butthole.

>> No.15674471

>>15674408
who isnt?

>> No.15675682
File: 580 KB, 3008x2000, shoe-cop.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15675682

NEW COP.

Thanks to all of the anons that suggested suede loafers.

>> No.15676220
File: 47 KB, 900x686, Capture.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15676220

>>15675682
ayy. I just copped some berwick loafers. A suede loafer is probably the only type of dress shoe I could wear on a regular basis due to how casually I dress.

Quality is a lot better than Meermin for the same price, which surprised me

>> No.15676261
File: 231 KB, 2000x1006, Snapchat-564432067_1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15676261

got my first pair of proper suede shoes thrifted from ebay today. ive given them a nice shampoo, brush, and rinse. getting them wet should also also help with the lack of shape they had after they arrived, the last owner certainly could have taken better care of them. looking forward to seeing how they look after having dried out.

>>15675682
i really love the colour on these.

>>15676220
do berwick make quality non-loafers? always helps to have more brands on the thrift list.

>> No.15676275

Banned?

>> No.15676287
File: 70 KB, 750x1334, 25B5A48F-EFAA-4909-AB80-65411C070A58.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15676287

From last thread, I am building a base of knitwear right now for capsule wardrobe so I can get the most use out of them and what do you think about the colours here?
I’m not a fan of navy knitwear and wouldn’t know where to place it, I’d prefer a dark brown but I wanted to limit myself to four colours initially and I’m not sure if omitting Navy would be a mistake. Ignore the turtlenecks, I’m still trying to decide which colours should be turtlenecks and which should be crew. I think they’ll all have to be merino or a very light lambswool, perhaps cashmere so nothing thicker and heavier with different character unfortunately since I want multiple seasons usage.

Couldn’t I use a charcoal in any situation where I could use Navy and just make rid of the Navy? So I’d essentially have a Charcoal, Light Gray (lighter than pic), Dark Brown and a Fawn colour?

Maybe make the Navy a polo if I have to, along with a Wine colour?

>> No.15676288

>>15676261
I think they make other good stuff, but I would stick to their suede or cordovan. They tend to use corrected grain for their smooth leather, which keeps the cost down but is a waste given their construction quality imo.

>> No.15676330

>>15676288
oof, thats unfortunate.

>> No.15676338

>>15676287
id advise being conservative with your knitwear colours, and picking one nice navy sweater, and one nice beige sweater. those are your best choices in colour for sweaters as they pair nicely with most things. of course, if you lean heavily in one direction with pant tones go the other in your sweaters. charcoal is a bad choice desu, unless all your outerwear and pants are colourful enough to make you not look muted.

>> No.15676350
File: 1.95 MB, 5587x3715, apex-shoe.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15676350

>>15676220
>>15676261
Based suedebros.

>>15676261
How are the Loake's L1 line? I almost considered copping some Loake's 1880 today.

Ended up going with Church's, especially as I got these for 'only' €350. The leather quality is outrageously good, but I guess that's what's giving it that depth of colour.

>> No.15676351

>>15676261
I have their brogue derbies and I really do love them

>> No.15676372

>>15676350
the L1 line is not the best, i will say that. theyre cheap and available, but i would recommend thrifting only the non L1s desu. theres some issues with the fit tbqh, whats sold as a G fit is more like a half sized up F fit for one and the general fit is quite loose, not as form fitting as i would ideally like in certain spots. these are a size 8 and in terms of length its basically an 8.5 with maybe a slightly wider toe box. not quite what i was hoping for but plenty workable and a fine addition to my collection of thrifted shoes. i can also see places where theyve cut corners in addition to the last used, i dont think the sole is of the highest quality and it seems to be a lot more damaged than the uppers in places. they also tacked the tongue of the shoes down to the lacing area with thread for some reason.

if you can spare a trip to the north of england any time soon you sometimes see loakes 1880 line reduced to half price or lower in brick and mortar stores because they just cannot shift them. were i not on the dole and somewhat addicted to thrifting id be visiting those shops. hell, i even saw a solid pair of loake loafers there once, brand new, for £30. not even the L1 line either.

churchs are solid though, cant grumble at their quality and iirc they are a cut above loake.

>>15676351
berwick?

>> No.15676408

>>15676350
Imagine buying new church's

>> No.15676492

>>15672616
non-iron often means polyester blends, which you should avoid in shirts. Cotton, linen or silk (if you're into it) should be the only materials for a shirt.

>> No.15676566

As someone getting into dressing better and in need of trousers. Where should I consider getting them from or what should it be for my first 1 or 2 more casual pairs since anything more than jeans and sweatpants feels alien to me? I have rarely spent over €80 for them so it's a new world to spend a lot to me. I also squat often so I'm worried that they either won't fit my thighs or I'll quickly outgrow them and waste a lot of money - I'm not sure what to do.

>> No.15676577

>>15676566
get some generously fitted and generously inward pleated chinos in a nice colour of your chosing. you should be able to get them cheaper than MSRP on ebay.

>> No.15676623

>>15676577
Is it not worth getting MTM then? Not sure what to look for with chinos, they all look thin, lacking texture and the colours are washed out?
What about wool flannel?

>> No.15676677

>>15676623
dont go MTM, its just not worth bothering with unless you want something very specific you cannot buy off the shelf or have reasonably altered, and dont want to go bespoke. start buying stuff thats cheap but quality and also versatile, get a feel for what you like.

>> No.15676739

>>15676677
I'll take a look, I have always had problems with how pants fit because of disproportionate thigh/seat/waist measurement. I'm not sure how cheap I can get off of the shelf when I think luxire/suitsupply has some pretty cheap €100ish wool pants for their own cloth or do I absolutely require VBC?

>> No.15676821
File: 175 KB, 750x648, 7D101E5B-6D8B-44F2-B5C2-CDCF3F70CF83.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15676821

How would you make this color work? I’ve seen so many blue jeans but I wonder how you can make this attractive, the brown just looks odd to me.

>> No.15676835

>>15676623
Depends on how big your thighs and hips are. I also have squat butt and almost nothing fits OTR. End up having to buy one or two sizes up and have them taken in. When you factor in the price of the clothes + tailoring MTM is almost cheaper and with a good house will definitely fit better.
>>15676677 is good advice for those with normal frames but not for lifters.
Go get measured at a tailor and then spend some time trying on several different brands. You might find one that fits great.

>> No.15676836

>>15676739
For fabric go with what looks and feels good. It doesn't have to be VBC but it should be quality. For everyday wear house Super 100-120 should be fine.

>> No.15677441
File: 1.96 MB, 2672x4392, 29-10-2020.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15677441

New suit.

>>15676372
Noted, thanks.

>>15676408
There isn't a good vintage market for shoes here, anon. Did cop them considerably cheaper than MSRP as they were very old stock from 2016.


>>15676566
If you want to go high-waisted, loose-cut gurkhas with pleats will help a ton with larger thighs. They're extremely casual pants that offer a slightly dressy step up from the rest. They look best on fit body types.

>> No.15677471

>>15677441
Looks like the suits that Hugo Jacomet often wears. Good choice on the button color!

>>15676566
My trousers are finished now, too. While they don't have a ghurka closure they may still be useful as an inspiration as I have larger thighs, too.

>> No.15677610
File: 564 KB, 856x721, Mens Classic Vintage Genuine Leather Fashion Driving Chauffeur Gloves- Amazon-co-uk- Clothing 10-29-2020 11-06-02 AM.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15677610

What about leather gloves? Will they make me look like a serial killer? Something like pic related.

>> No.15677617

>>15677610
Those are just driving gloves, why do you associate them with a serial killer? Me, I prefer them with the knuckles closed because they usually don't line up with your actual knuckles

>> No.15677632

>>15677617
Can you wear them outside of driving without them looking out of place?

>> No.15677687

>>15677471
That was the idea, but it seems like execution was deeply flawed here.

Turned out to be extremely uncomfortable in any posture except for standing upright. Ended up getting changed. It's going to be a very difficult conversation with the MTM tailor in the near future.

>> No.15677688

>>15677687
And this is particularly daft because it's a full canvas super 180s MTM suit. Christ.

>> No.15677705

>>15677688
What makes it uncomfortable exactly? Is it the same tailor who made your pants and so forth? I think he'll understand if you say that the craftsmanship is great and it turned out like you specified, but ask him for suggestions how to alter this one or subsequent suits in this design.
Did you not notice during fittings?

>> No.15677714

>>15677705
This is a different tailor to my bespoke stuff. I did notice during the fittings and explained it to him. The armholes are way, way too big, and the corrections they attempted to apply to them resulted in a ton of chest gapping in any posture but 'at the ready' (which is why I didn't see it). You can even see it in the image there now that I look closely. This means that just raising my arms causes the entire jacket to get lifted by my upper arms off my shoulders. Same phenomenon as typically seen in OTR.

This is kind of the fourth jacket he's making after a series of incredibly dumb errors in production (not his fault), so I accepted that it might not be perfect, as it's just MTM and not bespoke, but the degree of discomfort was completely underestimated.

I've been happy with a number of his other suits (which were all received before this four-jackets-in-a-row fiasco), and post fits in them regularly. Even if they're not perfect I can at least wear them throughout the day without discomfort.

>> No.15677729

>>15677714
Yes, I can see that gap, thought that was intentional.
Also, look at your shoulder protruding through the sleeve, the shoulder seam should be 1cm longer so that the sleeve looks clean.
The armhole in your picture appears to be very high already, is it still too large for your taste? I mean it looks as if it were right in your armpit, which is the best for mobility.
Does the jacket create a lot of tension in the shoulders and pull back the sleeves when you try to tie your shoes in it or hold your arms in front of your chest as if you were swimming? I suspect that it does not give you enough room in the back, so the fabric pulls somewhere and also causes the chest to open up like this.

>> No.15677744

>>15673519
You use them mostly just to avoid double collar situations

>> No.15677745

>>15677632
They look even more out of place than fingerless gloves

>> No.15677760

>>15677632
Ideally you should use them inside the car only. SRS from Gentleman's Gazette wears them outside, too, but it looks ridiculous. They can work as an accessory instead of a pocket square, but it looks try hard/larp in my opinion.

>> No.15677770

anyone here got any tips for dealing with excessively long hairs on a suede shoes nap?

>> No.15677775

>>15676261
Can anyone recommend a loafer (Europe) that has a nice round toe-box? For me, JM Weston 180 fits best (but is EXTORTIONATE). I'm looking for alternatives.

Shoes like the Loake Eton, whilst nice, are just too damn narrow for my hobbit feet.

>> No.15677778

>>15677775
ive got a pair of black leather loake etons, and worse than their narrow toe box is their horrible heel slippage. i wish i could recommend you something anon but as a fellow wide foot fag ive had terrible luck. my best fitting shoes are a pair of DMS sole parade oxfords in a size up kek.

>> No.15677779

>>15677778
>>15677775
churches in half sizes unironically.

>> No.15677786
File: 139 KB, 1536x1187, 6E0B12AC-FA83-4D4C-B18A-A1FD7F3A8C98.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15677786

Cop or not, my sprezzerinos

>> No.15677792

>>15677779
churches command a bit of a premium here desu. any specific recommendations for someone looking for a wide fit size 8 shoe for day to day wear? so far ive got black leather almost chukka style ankle boots from S&S, a pair of loake eton loafers in black leather, and now a pair of brown suede brogues from loakes l1 lineup.

>> No.15677804

>>15677779
Church's loafers unironically look like shit and cost £450

>> No.15677849

>>15677729
Absolutely not, should be totally flush on the chest. It's a compound problem with the armhole as it's been altered drastically.

>>15677804
They are expensive, but the materials and craftsmanship are outstanding. Looks are subjective, but the 'chunky' last and wide sole are a product of the goodyear welting and actually fitting wide feet part.

>>15677792
I have no idea, of all the shoe brands I've tried I've never worn anything as perfectly fitted for wide anglo/germanic feet as Church's.

>> No.15677865

>>15677714
Noticed that, it fit quite differently than your other stuff. Bordering on drape cut - it clearly isn't but almost could be which is dangerous territory. Sleeves look a bit off and baggy as well.

>> No.15677963

>>15677441
I agree on the fit as you've said - seems to be a bit of tugging and that weird angled bit on the lapel where its not sitting right.+ what you said about the arms. Material is great though, very versatile/neutral which I think is important if you're going for a DB to tone it down a bit. Not a fan of the shoes though - a standard black/brown oxford would be better. I've never been convinced by no break trousers for suits either - I get it for say linen trousers and lighter summer things, but not sure about here. That is more a matter of personal taste though, you seem to be a fan of the semi-cropped approach and I guess it can get a bit toasty in SA. Why super 180s? Seems a bit OTT?

>>15677610
Pretty larpy. Most don't wear gloves so unless you want to be 'that guy' then stick to some plain leather gloves - unless you're driving a classic car in which case knock yourself out.

>> No.15677986

>>15677786
What brand is this?

>> No.15677988

can i safely shrink suede shoes?

>> No.15678036

so today i discovered a large chunk of my shoe woes can be solved by adding larger insoles, but my gel insoles which are suitably chunky actually hurt my feet on long walks out due to how firm they are. does anyone have any good insole recommendations for someone in the UK?

>>15677988
disregard that, somehow i managed to go all this time without thinking of adding a second insole. im sure ive heard it before but i was convinced it would just cause chafing on my upper foot.

>> No.15678043

>>15676287
What're some decent brands for knitwear?

>> No.15678057

>>15675682
wtc senpai

>> No.15678063

>>15678043
Look to the trad threads, they have a huge list of (European) knitwear brands. My personal ones are:
bosie (harley of scotland)
jamiesons
jinji (for shaggy dog jumpers)

>> No.15678574

Trousers guy here, started my new project: single breasted linen waistcoat

>> No.15678826

>>15677786
Sage

>> No.15678921

Just got some double pleated charcoal trousers back from the tailor. They are the most comfortable pair I have, because they've got a fuller cut, but don't look baggy at all, since they drape really well. I think there is no going back to slimmer cuts.

>> No.15679522

>>15678826
??

>>15678921
Cool, care to share? Hopefully I can take photos of mine today

>> No.15679543

>>15678921
>They are the most comfortable pair I have, because they've got a fuller cut, but don't look baggy at all, since they drape really well. I think there is no going back to slimmer cuts.
just keep telling yourself that until you believe it fatass

>> No.15680373
File: 157 KB, 984x1091, brown blue stripes.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15680373

>> No.15680417
File: 629 KB, 1674x2000, late-night-sprezz.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15680417

Shitty lighting as it's dark now, but here's today's daytime casual fit. Got a ton of compliments and a QT's number too.

>>15678057
Spoke 'bout them earlier in the thread senpai.
https://www.church-footwear.com/eu/en/men/style/loafers/products.suede_loafer.EDB003_9VE_F0AAD_F_000000.html

Copped these ones ~40% off.

>>15679543
Love tasteful trouser drape, post a fit with them!

>> No.15680441

How do I get some /sprezz/ pants? I just have chinos now and am shy.

>> No.15680492

tfw wearing double pleated chinos, black penny loafers, and a £1.80 primark tshirt to buy icecream from the shop.

>>15680417
with you flaunting that much chest im not surprised desu

>> No.15680498

>>15680492
Based as fuck. I bet you had the most smug satisfied grin as you ate that ice cream.

>> No.15680499

>>15680417
I think the lighting distorts the colours too much. The combination blue and black looks strange in this light, but you got compliments which speaks for itself.

>> No.15680507

>>15680498
damn straight anon, took my thrifted silver spoons into the shop so i could eat it at the till.

but nah, reality as of late is really testing my ability to give a fuck about anything besides my own enjoyment. hard to have a low time preference when the future looks like shit.

>> No.15680510
File: 1.58 MB, 2203x2499, IMG_20201030_183429~4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15680510

Started making a tie about an hour ago. To the guy who makes his pocket squares from quarters: try a tie, too, it's really easy.

>> No.15680524

>>15680499
Photo is true to colour, was shooting raw and matched it closely. It's dark blue linen on dark brown pants.

>>15680507
Push against that if you can. You can dress well with an eye to the long term. I live in fucking africa and arguably it's given me the lowest time preference possible. If we're going to make a change, we need to do it as a huge group of incredibly well educated, powerful and influential men lead by truly great people.

Dressing well is part of how I signal to the world that I'm here to make changes, not sit poolside and watch the world burn.

>>15680510
Great project. Please do post more. I have a ton of amazing ties that have shitty extra-thick interlining. How can I swap out the interlining? where do I even buy suitable interlining? is there any good material you'd suggest?

>> No.15680531

>>15680417
This is the first of your photos which I outright dislike. You look like the guy in pic related would, if he was into Sexcore. Not sure if it‘s better in person, but I dislike the lack of contrast, the flashy ring on your trousers and how obscenely open your shirt is. Either of these is fine as a standalone, but the combination is too much for my taste.

>> No.15680535
File: 1.54 MB, 750x1334, E996F275-D6B7-4266-B820-4814C33EF2C6.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15680535

>>15680531
Forgot the picture like the fool that I am.

>> No.15680558

>>15680531
>>15680535
Thanks anon, appreciate the very fair criticism.

Will also snap a fabric shot in natural light tomorrow which is where it was intended to be worn - comments on that would be great.

>> No.15680602

>>15680524
I'm not really a tie expert, but I'd suggest linen fabric for the interlining, some basic canvas or panama weave. Maybe just ask the bespoke tailor if he can give you the fabric scraps from your next project with him.
You should find some X stitches on the back of your tie, you can cut those and open the tie folds, there you should find the interlining.
Mine will be folded twice onto itself, won't add interlining.

>> No.15680735

>>15680524
Maybe my screen distorts it then, the color combination should be OK.

>> No.15680795
File: 51 KB, 570x1280, Trousers.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15680795

>>15679522
Here you go.
>>15680417
Very sober fit today, but it works.
>>15679543
Seethe.

>> No.15680807

>>15680795
Also, first time taking a picture of a fit. I'm sure the framing could be improved.

>> No.15680813

>>15680535
lmao haven’t seen this picture in like five years

>> No.15680814

>>15680795
All of those elements are extremely good. Photo is a bit underexposed, would do well to get a z-tier DSLR if you can afford one.

Trousers drape exceptionally well, but the waistband appears curved rather than perfectly horizontal, a preference of yours? Could also be the angle rather than the fit itself.

Closeup on tie?

>> No.15680839
File: 134 KB, 572x1280, Tie.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15680839

>>15680814
Thanks for the feedback.
The waistband is straight, but I was standing in at an angle which had that weird optical effect.
Here is a closeup on the tie. I took it off to get a better pic of the knit.

>> No.15680867

>>15680524
>I live in fucking africa
my condolences, ive heard nothing but terrible things coming out of africa.

as for change, it isnt happening here, or at least not change for the good. i have about as much chance of stopping things getting a fuckload worse here as you do of stopping the murder of white african settlers, arguably less so given us here in the UK have no access to weapons and the UK is regarded as a legitimate state with strong international ties.

the last thing i agree with to an extent, this is a sort of signal of my own personal and political sensibilities.

>> No.15680869

>>15680839
This is great.

>> No.15680883

>>15680558
Remember that despite my (only maybe merited) criticism, you got some digits. Your outfit still overall works, it‘s just not up to the standard of your usually outstanding fits.

>> No.15680885

Daily reminder that most of the people who post here are just LARPers and are actually from non Mare Nostrum countries

>> No.15680886

ignore it, dont respond

>> No.15680923
File: 39 KB, 736x736, CatalinaPenny_2243_Tan_Angle_web.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15680923

rate my cop

>> No.15681153

>>15680507
If you make effort now your future will not be as grim as you think. Giving up already is nigger-tier. Work with an eye towards improvement and you will see results.

>> No.15681157
File: 160 KB, 678x960, strong men cycle.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15681157

>>15680867
Change is happening and all clouds have a silver lining. The hard times are coming fast. Guess what you need to be?

>> No.15681271

>>15680923
>tan loafer
granddad slipper tier tbqh m80

>>15681153
im locked inside while everythings going to shit, anon. last job i applied for i got told they wanted me to work a 24 hour shift one day and a 12 the next, for minimum wage, and id have to commute. the only hope i see is a shot at getting out before they implement the canada leak.

>>15681157
the fuck out of here is what i need to be. a cursory knowledge of my nations recent political history including the dirty bits and a passing understanding of politics tells you this is not a fight you can win from the inside.

>> No.15681347
File: 2.27 MB, 1200x900, 23VIPIMTOBDY6OAX26XAN7LQXI.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15681347

how does this madman pull it off? it's not fair bros...

>> No.15681517

>>15674408
hairy legged men’s assholes are just as tasty and fuckable as a hairless man’s

>> No.15681583

What kinds of winter hats get worn with sprezz?

>> No.15681762
File: 223 KB, 750x1334, 741D41FE-6CDE-4089-B6E3-CC47B86794A0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15681762

Happy Halloween Sprezz

>> No.15681853
File: 50 KB, 450x309, tumblr_ls1ac5z7101qkyodr.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15681853

>>15672616
non-iron are more masculine, theres a reason why they were made popular by skinheads

>> No.15681859

>>15681853
Imagine being racked by your own trousers

>> No.15681878

>>15681271
Time for self-improvement then. Read, work out, learn skills.
As for escaping, there is nowhere to run. They have their hooks in everywhere.
If you spend your time wallowing in depression and misery you will not help matters. Do what is best for yourself and forge a new path forwards.

>> No.15681890
File: 696 KB, 1541x2170, IMG_20201031_080348~2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15681890

>>15680510
Folded back on itself the first time. Ties with interlining would have the interlining here, I suppose.

>> No.15681931
File: 769 KB, 2061x2095, IMG_20201031_084738~2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15681931

>>15681890
Folded back and secured.

>> No.15681934
File: 106 KB, 1069x959, IMG_20201031_085418~2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15681934

>>15681931
Done. The fabric is a bit too soft, but it is easy to create a dimple with it

>> No.15681979

>>15681934
>using the butt dimple.

>> No.15681991

>>15681762
This is a fucking based constume. Well done anon.

>> No.15682129

>>15681878
are you familliar with the history of the right in great britain over the course of the 20th century? some places are drastically more fucked than others, anon. if we want to win, we first need to consolidate our power and strike where the enemy is weak. first and foremost that means getting into bed with the US, and if the information leaking out of western nations is to be believed that will soon be treason. almost every single person in my nations institutions is on board with the 4th industrial revolution, which means nothing more than a return to slavery for the bulk of the population. we will own nothing, not even ourselves. we will not be allowed to travel outside of a small area. the soviets were not beaten by a liberal revolt because governments that deal in power are not shy about crushing any and all opposition, and the right needs to get that through its thick skull if it doesnt want to be steamrolled. every time the right screams at us to stand our ground, they pull it from under us, because the right has no grasp of power politics.

as for self improvement im on it, but when youre effectively confined to your house and forcibly made unemployed indefinitely its a struggle. i could do with more quality sources of ebooks, because somehow there is not a single quality reading of any of the great works of cicero.

>> No.15682156

>>15682129
Library genesis

>> No.15682160

>>15682156
shit, meant audiobooks not ebooks, but thanks anyway

>> No.15682254
File: 963 KB, 3008x2000, after-the-fact.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15682254

>>15680883
>>15680531
Colours shown in natural light here.

>>15682160
Aside from library genesis, you might try a private tracker or otherwise learn to read.

>> No.15682261

>>15682254
oh i can read anon, i just have lost all drive to. im half way through Machiavellis Discourses and have been for nearly a year now. at least with audiobooks i can walk through the countryside listening to interesting things. revolt against the modern world was nice. today is a bad day.

>> No.15682273

>>15682261
Unquestionably based. I have Ride The Tiger on the way.

If you're not enjoying the physical reading, try something in a shorter, essay format in a different location. You can finish one of these in an hour in a coffee shop. It's a great way to pass the time in a generally very upbeat environment. Also gives you an opportunity to interact with others as well as you've got an easy conversation piece right in your hand. I always interact with people reading in a coffee shop.

If your country's lockdown doesn't permit this, try a park instead, weather permitting.

>> No.15682280

>>15682254
That looks better than the last one. Still, the trousers look dark grey rather than brown to me, not sure why and it doesn't really matter now.
I'd say it was the shirt that gave you most of the attention, maybe try it with lighter brown trousers and/or a similar texture?

>> No.15682291

>>15682280
It's coming from the very cool color temperature. Very overcast with terrible weather here.

Have a number of linen trousers and shirts for summer. Still not quite warm enough for most of them yet.

>> No.15682292

Taste questions;

V-Neck or Crew Neck? I'm afraid that I don't always wear shirts so that means I can't wear a V-Neck. I feel that V-Neck sweaters make me look much more aged in a bad way at early 20s.

Regular/Set-In Shoulder with turn-back cuffs?
vs
Saddle shoulder with straight cuffs?

>> No.15682294

>>15682292
How old are you?

I'd say linen shirts if you need something casual, but otherwise henley t-shirts if you have to wear a t-shirt.

>> No.15682301

>>15682294
23, also should have made more clear, the question was about sweaters.

>> No.15682308
File: 104 KB, 720x874, example.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15682308

>>15682301
I'd go for V-neck if you're not a chestlet. It can look particularly good on an athletic build. You can compensate for the 'looks too old' part by making sure it doesn't have roping and that it's closely fitted.

Also consider polo necks. Those are fantastically versatile and casual.

>> No.15682312
File: 140 KB, 1280x720, this-is-not-a-joke.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15682312

Truly, it's a look endorsed by the top menswear experts.
10/10, 10/10 spicy senoritas prefer v-necks.

>> No.15682316
File: 362 KB, 1080x1410, bad-ex.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15682316

This is bad roping and a dadcore sizing choice. Avoid.

>> No.15682328
File: 1.08 MB, 2048x2048, 6FED0E0C-1F08-4427-B552-B9AB73C53946.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15682328

>>15682312
What I’m afraid of.

>>15682308
I have a larger chest in comparison to my waist but I’m lean and I’m not sure if it would fit. I can always wear crew with or without a button up shirt, I don’t think I could do the same with a v-neck and still look good?

>>15682308
>>15682292
Not these colours and the fit is bad but just basically I have to choose between turn back cuffs or saddle shoulder since they don’t make a model with both. I’m leaning towards the cuffs and a regular shoulder.

>> No.15682329

>>15682328
Regular cuffs and regular shoulder. Keep it simple here.

>> No.15682333
File: 1.85 MB, 1508x2643, hrpt4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15682333

Finally had a chance to take pictures with the latest trousers. Here is the summary of the effort that went into it, take into account that this is after sewing two or three bad trousers before.

Time spent:
2h - constructing pattern
2h - checking measurements on the pattern, cutting it
1h - ironing
2h - cutting the parts
0.5h - ironing and cutting pocket lining
2h - finishing front edges, button placket, fly cover, ironing, adding pleats
1h - sewing and ironing pocket lining
2h - attaching button placket, ironing pockets, misc reinforcements and hand-sewing
2h - sewing inseam, connecting the legs, attaching fly cover
0.5h - sewing buttons
0.5h - taking in waist
1.5h - waistband, part 1: basting front and lining, sewing, removing basting thread
5h - waistband, part 2: interlining, reinforcing interlining, belt ends
1h - opening incorrect waistband
5h - attaching the corrected waistband
2h - cuffs and ironing
------------------------------------------
25h total

Cost:
4.10 EUR - thread 200m
4.00 EUR - 10 buttons
10.68 EUR - 1.2m linen fabric, 8.9 EUR/m
4.45 EUR - 0.5m viscose fabric, 8.9 EUR/m
------------------------------------------
23.23 EUR

>> No.15682336

>>15682273
>You can finish one of these in an hour in a coffee shop
if theyre not already closed they will likely be forcibly closed before the weeks over. its also spitting rain, and has been for the last 2 days here. the only local park got trashed by the local chavs, and my usual walk has no particularly good places to just sit and read for an extended period of time. i miss normality.

>> No.15682338

>>15682312
I'm still surprised that Gentleman's Gazette lists him in their recommended channels.

>> No.15682341

>>15682333
>1.2m linen fabric
can i ask what pattern you used, and if you used any interface material? im looking to do a similar project in time. also what linen did you use and where did you get it from?

>> No.15682348

>>15682333
Those are great, anon. Love the waistband button.

>>15682336
Yes, it sucks everywhere. Literally everyone is having a shitty time right now. It's not just you. Try and focus on the small moments of good and happiness that happen from time to time. Try to not let yourself think negatively about anything; it doesn't help solve the problems. Remember that it sucks just as bad for everyone else.

>> No.15682350

>>15682348
honestly anon, if it was only shit for me id be happier for it. the worst part about this is the fact that its universal, theres no real escape from it.

>> No.15682359

>>15682350
For now.

https://archive.org/details/mr.bond1488_202003/Mr.Bond-LikeADiamondextended.ogg

>> No.15682384
File: 169 KB, 531x750, 5f784303c2d1a[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15682384

Cop the jacket or not?

>> No.15682391

>>15682341
I drafted the pattern from an instruction with my measurements and experience from the previous project (same pattern without the pleats).
The fabric is a linen canvas with 320g/m^2, no interlining because I intend to wear it in summer. The waistband has an "edge band" or wigan inside, that cost me around 3 or 5 EUR, but I had it lying around and used it spontaneously.
The trousers pattern is from a "wedding ensemble" pattern instruction. It's funny because they sell basic patterns for shirt, waistcoat, trousers separately and this instruction had a similar price for the basic patterns of all three. Basically that's an instruction for a basic draft and the adjustments for specific models, in this case wedding attire. Maybe you won't get the exact same thing that you want from those model patterns, but it's no magic either to create the design you want from the basic pattern and studying their model patterns.

>> No.15682448

>>15682333
What is the difference between this and something you'd pay 300 EUR for? What does a professional do differently?

>> No.15682477
File: 72 KB, 500x709, 6c4623511935bb0eeb6e9c36dd90ae84.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15682477

Is Michael Caine sprezzatura? I want this look.

>> No.15682521
File: 131 KB, 1024x1024, 20201031_171022-COLLAGE.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15682521

Hello /sprezz/ I am coming for advice. Since last few months I decided to do something with my image and my overall health. I started lifting and went on diet and in the result of that I lost 10kg (22lbs). I feel much better now and I am happy with myself and I am carrying on with my /fit/ adventure (I do amateur powerlifting and some cardio).

I want to improve my looks so I decided to thrift some blazers and bought new pair of pants. I got my blazers tailored and in the result I think that I look really goofy in them. Normally I am wearing some polo shirt and jeans to work and outside working evrinoment I am wearing only sportswear (mainly traksuits and plain tshirt).

Can You please tell me how I look? Maybe instead of thrifting I should buy like two new suits? I am trying to create an entire new wardrobe for myself - a profesional attire to work and sportswear outside work.

>> No.15682523

>>15682448
I'd say the main difference is that the professional has years of experience and proper education in the craft vs me/you just starting out. This is really the main factor.
The other difference is that he has access to high end fabrics, i.e. if I wanted something from Scabal I'd have to register as a business partner with them, which I won't, so I am left with whatever I can find in the local store or online shops. This is not necessarily bad, though, because those fabrics aren't bad either if you take your time to find a good one.
Still, it's better than RTW because you can decide how you want to do each element individually. Me for example, I don't like visible bar tacks, so I secure the pocket openings with several nearly invisible stitches. The tailor may or may not do this for you, or may charge extra.

>> No.15682587

>>15682521
You look excellent ! Cheers to your new path on life too ! You might just feel goofy as it is new to you, but keep at it. Having a suit is always nice as well. If you do not have one, look into getting a dark blue. The dark blue is going to be the most versatile suit you will have at first. Just please do not buy a black suit.

>> No.15682597

>>15682521
Two things look off: the wrinkles in the back and the extremely high buttoning point.
Try jackets with two side vents, those should be easier to adjust to a wide back.
The front looks good to me, except for the button that seems to sit at your chest. It should sit at your waist/navel approximately

>> No.15682610

>>15682391
may i ask, whats your thought on the material you used, and how did you source it?

any chance i could get a link to that pattern?

>> No.15682616

>>15681991
Thanks. It makes it super easy to pull college girls. You should try it

>> No.15682669

>>15682254
This looks A LOT better.

>> No.15682676

>>15682333
I really like the waistband and you absolutely nailed the fit of the trousers. Great work!
Not sure how light the fabric is, but if these are hot weather (and not spring) trousers, I‘d maybe hem them to no break instead of quarter break.

>> No.15682679

>>15682384
Be aware of the high button stance. That‘s not something perfect for every body type.

>> No.15682695

>>15682333
Fantastic work anon, you are an inspiration.

Nicely cut trousers too. Are you able to share the pattern?

>> No.15682706

>>15678036
I use SVARTZ ABSORBER insoles in my military boots and they are so good. Maybe they work in normal shoes, who knows?

>> No.15682710

>>15682706
how are they in terms of reducing the size of a shoe?

>> No.15682730

>>15682710
Well they're thicc as fuck so they will deff reduce the room in the shoe if that's what you're after, maybe too much though. The cost £24 for a pair too so not so cheap. V comfortable though

>> No.15682763

>>15682730
any other recommendations? i can sorta make things work with my existing insoles atm but if it pays to have them it pays to have them.

>> No.15683049
File: 463 KB, 1575x2100, 58F99897-619D-4A4C-B810-FD4A532437FB.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15683049

Hey sprezz, I just thrifted this cord sport coat and I need some advice. While the shoulders are imperfect on it (Slightly more out than the other, better fitting coats I have, I yo yo between 38-40) it’s not too imperfect imo. What’s bothering me is the bloominess of it.

Posting in other breads has told me to get the cuffs altered. How would it go to slim down the sides/back of it slightly? Or is that just a natural product of it being fairly thick cord? What else should I alter?

>> No.15683054
File: 477 KB, 1575x2100, DA87C3F1-F8DB-485C-9FFC-0A280EA0786D.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15683054

>>15683049

Side view

>> No.15683069

>>15683049
>>15683054
That jacket is far too big.

>> No.15683141

>>15683049
man you look like youre drowning in that thing

>> No.15683171

>>15672388
Anyone knows what jacket is this? Or shit alike. Me wants.

>> No.15683235

>>15683069
>>15683141

Is trimming or narrowing it down possible without sacrificing its integrity? Or should I give up and sell it on eBay or something?

>> No.15683504
File: 264 KB, 500x369, books3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15683504

>>15682129
just for you BB
CyberAlexandria - https://mega.nz/#F!s5EFFQSY!QTYGwRruFqfYUl8BvtV1rQ

General collection - https://mega.nz/#F!flYQGbzI!p1AFjtMuCLHQqocJqxV7rg

General Library - https://mega.nz/folder/Oi4nTAQL#_plrFsfOY0SOBd7rujllHA/folder/HmxjXI4a

Germanic Myth - https://mega.nz/#F!bENznApJ!zoLo1-76Rpraq_5ztpZ3SA

/his/tory - https://mega.nz/#F!dlZlDbqL!TXG5bGvWufONkrQAL7b7jA

/his/tory 2 - https://mega.nz/#F!51Q0waSI!4Ut-eePQr9YSjHJJTQs7Ew

/his/tory 3 - https://mega.nz/#F!HbBXzIjC!AjsOUnEGMpcQPrWQG_MdEQ

Homestead/History - https://mega.nz/#F!WQ1j0Q5A!BrV-uEsC2VZlhFsqJV-YHg

Languages - https://mega.nz/#F!x4VG3DRL!lqecF4q2ywojGLE0O8cu4A

Latin/Greek - https://mega.nz/#F!9o4QEIIK!P3piz8Bfw-z7jgb7Q8NWDg

Military History - https://mega.nz/#F!ZAoVjbQB!iGfDqfBDpgr0GC-NHg7KFQ

Philosophy - https://mega.nz/#F!MQBRHBJA!L_on3h-XUrtbc719UaMygw

Poems/stories - https://mega.co.nz/#F!6sgETKCa!vGFF5iTfCR6lH3ZLXaQorQ

Precolumbian Americas (Mesoamerican/Andean civilizations, tribes, etc) - https://mega.nz/#F!vtQ2EIKK!Z7R8gN5vTsfalKDn18jOmw

Religion - https://mega.nz/folder/8yoXVK7A#TC52QPsBJcfjDyVVsy06wA

Warfare - https://mega.nz/#F!x4JD1RzD!4_nIFmI2sBdSYg14j7pIdA

SIG - https://mega.nz/#F!ZuZmiBqZ!XhyEetUaj6an8ntb-U1AZw

Self-Improvement - https://mega.nz/#F!C7ZwlY4L!DP4JwX2dJWJdmjxbB7b7Lw

Zundel's Bunker - https://mega.nz/#F!BGpDxQZR!nML6GBQ2DJPbqESkc8ZCtQ

Recommended Reading Screencaps - https://imgur.com/a/7YLKv

Lit guides - http://mega.nz/#F!i74ljAyA!q-k3-msTUs6a_PVfJPLkeA

Art - https://mega.nz/folder/rVcExIbB#VN9alzay0OrctggvEn1DUg

Anatomy and Art - http://mega.nz/#F!es1BSKQR!spODyd0iaQmMelGA2GscFw

Audiobooks - https://librivox.org

History Audiobooks - https://mega.nz/folder/KhMFDKbY#5k6xwI9odtAtPl8tlBbCWw

>> No.15683594
File: 873 KB, 777x777, A02465E9-7B67-46DD-AC85-241AAA6F97FB.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15683594

>>15680417

Where did you get those pants, they look great

>> No.15683610

>>15683235
You're never going to get the shoulders altered, and they're too big, so I'd let it go.

>> No.15683795

>>15682610
Not much thought went into it, but I know that it is hard to tell what will be OK when you're only starting to get into the topic.
The weight per square meter of the fabric tells you a lot already, then there are differences in the weave, so it looks and drapes differently. These are some rough guidelines:
100g is for shirts
200g is a thick shirt or light suit fabric
300g is a thick suit fabric
400g is coat fabric and very thick
Sartorial Talks for example labels 300g as a winter suit, which makes sense for wool. The material for the trousers is 320g linen, and it's still good for summer.
As I said, not much thought went into it, I just wanted linen and this was available online, the weight wasn't too much.
Usually I buy online (order sample booklets) or in local stores.

>> No.15683797

>>15682610
>>15682676
>>15682695
Thanks for the compliments! I cannot share the pattern that I bought, but I wanted to make an easier to understand version of it anyway, and I can share that. This will take some time, check the thread in a few days.

>> No.15684152

>>15683610

I don’t think the shoulders are an issue. Or are they?

>> No.15684153

finally getting around to picking apart the sleeve of my goverall peacoat and taking it up. they didnt finish the inside lining material, and its frayed to fuck. good thing im taking my sleeves up so i can cut and finish that shit.

>>15683235
flog it on, find something that fits. go for exact measurements on the shoulder only, no close approximations. even a quarter inch off will result in a bad fit. i know, ive bought my fair share of "close enough" coats.

>>15683504
>History Audiobooks
nice
>librivox
oh god, please no

>> No.15684195

>>15683504
Is people also LARPing reads?

>> No.15684289
File: 175 KB, 1006x2000, Snapchat-508135544.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15684289

took apart my gloveral peacoat today, seems the fabric edge of the lining is entirely unfinished on this, not that it really matters i suppose. plan is to hem it 2" further up to hang at a proper length.

>> No.15684292
File: 158 KB, 1006x2000, Snapchat-1422503573.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15684292

problem is, the way they constructed this is shoulders last, so im gonna have trouble hemming the cuff properly. im thinking i will have to hand stitch this so i can go through both outer layers but only one layer of the lining to give myself a proper allowance in terms of how much the lining can move. the sleeve is also too narrow for my sewing machine.

>> No.15684357

>>15684289
>gloveral peacoat
Ive been honestly thinking about getting some surplus coat and converting the buttons to something else. Could be good fun

>> No.15684360
File: 89 KB, 800x730, 90d23d9c-925d-5371-b118-e99309feba32.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15684360

>>15684357
>>15684289
pic related

>> No.15684380

>>15684360
any particular reason?

>> No.15684414

>>15684153
It's really common to not finish the lining, or unexposed edges of the fabric in general.

>> No.15684473
File: 633 KB, 2110x2134, IMG_20201101_191716~2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15684473

>>15684292
You can create a fold in the lining and attach the inner only, pic rel.

>> No.15684529

>>15684473
yeah, seems the way its done is turning the sleeve inside out at the midpoint. seems awkward so im gonna take this slowly so i dont fuck up.

>> No.15684604

>>15684380
I like the coat desu, 100% wool for below 50 usd is pretty sweet too

>> No.15684892
File: 133 KB, 500x522, 555-come-on-now-1687205.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15684892

>/spazzatura/

maybe if i wear a waistcoat people will talk to me!!!!!

>> No.15684958

>>15682333
I learned as a child how to sew basic things. How hard or realistic would it be for me to pick up making my own trousers like these as a hobby?

>> No.15684986

>>15684958
Doable, that's how I did it, too. Expect to make two or three trousers that look off in the beginning. Listen to advice from people who know how to sew, but don't follow a "it's faster/better to do everything on the sewing machine" doctrine.
You need the will to look for tutorials on how to sew certain parts or figure it out yourself by studying items that you already own. Learn how to do each step on scrap fabric if you are not sure.
Oh, and this is important for anyone here: wash the fabric at the desired washing temperature or higher before you start working with it! This avoids shrinking of the finished garments

>> No.15685052

what stitch do i want for attaching lining to a coat sleeve? i cant machine stitch it unfortunately

>>15684604
it is indeed, by all means give it a punt then

>> No.15685263

>>15683797
Bless you anon

>> No.15685411

>see spier & mackay has a sale
>check "high rise trousers" section
>rise for a 34 waist is 10 in
Wear can I find 12 in rise trousers without paying out the ass for them?

>> No.15685421

>>15685411
I think peter christian makes pants with a little higher than 12 inch rise. Never brought from them though

>> No.15685431

>>15685421
They don't even list the measurements. The tweed fabrics on trousers looks pretty good though.

>> No.15685440

>>15685411
make em

>> No.15685498
File: 216 KB, 1000x1000, rake.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15685498

>>15685440
I seriously would if I knew how. This low rise shit is so fucking frustrating. I guess I will have to shell out an extra $200 for an extra 2 inches of fabric on Rubinacci trousers

>> No.15685539

>>15680417
You look like a filthy rich douchebag. In a good way. I guess girls are into that look, color me surprised

>> No.15685564

>>15685411
Pini Parma, have heard good things things though don't own any myself

>> No.15685590
File: 143 KB, 1686x763, Pini.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15685590

>>15685564
Still a little too

>> No.15685605

>>15682336
Where do you live UK bro?

>> No.15685661

>>15685411
Does Luxire count as paying out the ass?

>> No.15685674

>>15682348
no, it isn’t just as bad for everyone else. people of different circumstances go through the same experiences differently. Fuck your naive optimism lol

>> No.15685679

>>15685674
yeah fuck optimism. You are a special sad snowflake and no one can understand your pain.
How's that working for you again?

>> No.15685680

>>15685679
I'm a dude that's worn nothing but jeans and t-shirts my entire life. What are some entry level steps I can take to look like I give a shit /fa/? Should I buy a hat?

>> No.15685695

>>15685674
agreed

>> No.15685719

>>15685431
I just emailed and asked. It's what I usually do since there are a fair amount of retailers that only list waist/inseam. I have an oddly long torso for my height so I am careful about pants.
>>15683171
You want to search shawl collar cardigan. Spider and Mackay just released preorders for some that look nice. There's another brand that makes very nice ones but I cannot remember the name for the life of me right now. Will go research and see if I can find it.


Should I buy a picasso shirt? It's still fucking hot in Texas so I could still get in a month or two of wear.

>> No.15685754

>>15685680
>a hat
absolutely not
Nice buttoned shirts to start with. Tuck them in.
Pants. Start with chinos then other trousers.
Get a sport coat.
Groom yourself. Shower at least once daily, shave, cut and comb your hair.
Make sure everything fits you well.
That's all it really takes. Those are the basics. A tucked in buttoned shirt and chinos with a jacket instantly makes you look more put together than 90% of men.

>> No.15685773
File: 177 KB, 994x974, sleeve_lining.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15685773

>>15685052
Here you go

>> No.15686102

>>15685605
norf east

>>15685773
cheers mate, found a dory duffy video on it literally minutes after asking

>>15685498
theres at least 2 of us learning at this point anon, give it a go.

>> No.15686183
File: 95 KB, 500x638, 1aca3c92109c4ef2638bf3a9342730fa.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15686183

gonna dump some fairaisle sweater inspo

>> No.15686184
File: 83 KB, 480x480, 1f44635691f35d725b2433413a9c7d6a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15686184

>> No.15686187
File: 56 KB, 370x500, 36e9ddfc45a537d43c8ae9181580e005.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15686187

>> No.15686189
File: 60 KB, 305x400, 867d6-prince_edward_fair_isle.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15686189

>> No.15686190
File: 99 KB, 500x738, d26979cf892c452d56564df4da69ad45.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15686190

>> No.15686201
File: 814 KB, 1280x1920, tumblr_pqeb1aea4C1s5fve2o3_1280.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15686201

>> No.15686312
File: 1.77 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20201102_150508839.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15686312

Today's fit, in stark contrast with the fairisle inspo
Linen safari jacket, cotton/linen chambray and beater >greenos

>> No.15686336

>>15686312
The jacket looks nice! Could you please show me how the inside/shoulder is constructed?

>> No.15686357

>>15686312
kek, safari jackets always look to me like something my dad would wear but its hardly a bad fit.

>> No.15686380

>>15686183
I'll have to get myself some kino tweed, any brand recs? (UK)

>> No.15686387

>>15686380
its kinda hard to find shit tweed desu, if you like it and it doesnt look like its put together like shit get it.

>> No.15686388
File: 1.42 MB, 3120x3300, IMG_20201102_160642733.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15686388

>>15686336
Sure!
Shoulder seam and sleevehead from the outside
>>15686357
Thanks!

>> No.15686391
File: 1.55 MB, 3120x3581, IMG_20201102_160831883.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15686391

>>15686388
I meant "From the inside"
This is the right side out

>> No.15686396
File: 2.30 MB, 4160x3120, IMG_20201102_160743276.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15686396

>>15686391
Inside of the body

>> No.15686399
File: 3.56 MB, 3120x3530, IMG_20201102_160531291.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15686399

>>15686396
Fusible(?) running down the front

>> No.15686402

>>15685661
Not bad on the prices. How is the quality?

>> No.15686421

>>15686399
Looks solid, good finishing. The sleeve lining looks like cotton because it is really fine. That interlining in the front facing looks like a cotton twill. It's probably fixed at the edges and obviously at the button holes, but I don't think that it is fused to the outer fabric. You can test it, if you run the fabric between your thumb and index finger you should be able to move them separately.
Fusible is usually in a canvas weave and really thin, I can upload a photo later.

>> No.15686427

if you guys go for long walks out, do you wear base layers to try and cut down on the sweat getting into your clothes, or not? i feel like that would be better than having dedicated clothes for when i plan on being on my feet a lot.

>> No.15686446

>>15686387
I'm not concerned about the quality as much as the cut, some brands do shit cuts for their jackets

>> No.15686447

>>15686446
well then you should be able to tell straight away if you dont like em

>> No.15686469

>>15686447
of course, but before visiting every single store in my city to rule out the shitty ones I was asking for some pointers, smartass

>> No.15686623

>>15686469
anon im saying that genuinely its just a case of does it look good on you? if not, skip it. if it does, get it. you really cant go too wrong with tweed jackets beyond the usual jacket concerns like bad proportions, shit look, etc. gents gazette will unironically be all you need.

>> No.15687784

>>15686427
I used to but it just caused more sweat to build up and get on my shirts anyways.
Good cotton shirts are base layers

>> No.15688087

>>15682129
Read Kropotkin.

>> No.15688165

>>15688087
>Read Kropotkin.
>Pyotr Alexeyevich Kropotkin was a Russian anarchist, socialist, revolutionary, economist, sociologist, historian, political scientist, human geographer and philosopher who advocated anarcho-communism. He was also an activist, essayist, researcher and writer.
any particular reason?

>> No.15688215

>>15688165
The book most relevant to your post about the 4th Industrial Revolution is "The Conquest Of Bread"

>> No.15688859

Waistcoat parts are mostly cut, only some pocket linings are remaining. This took so few fabric, I could still make another pair of trousers from it.

>> No.15688864

>>15686201
grey beards turn me on I can smell him mmmm tobacco oud on that chest *slurp*

>> No.15688866

>>15685679
lol optimist anon pissed

>> No.15688878

>>15688864
Fragrance thread my based man.

>> No.15688930

>>15686183
Has anyone ever posted a fit wearing a fair isle sweater around here?

>> No.15689028

>>15688930
yes

>> No.15689272

Do my fellow teachers (there's 3 or 4 of us right?) keep your jacket on the whole day? I usually have to throw mine over a chair because I am up and moving so much. Granted I teach 2nd grade so there is a LOT of getting up and moving around to model proper math

>> No.15689514

>>15689272
I keep it on to hide the pit sweats. Teaching at a sex segregated school prior to Covid-19 was interesting. Some boys tried to get a whiff of me or catch me changing in the lockers. Probably some truth to the whole “gay in private school” stuff I see in fiction.

>> No.15689521

>>15689514
A lot of days I just do polo/coat/chinos. It's a lot easier to look alright after the jacket is off. Some of my kids sniff me too. I think they are just weird

>> No.15689633

>>15689272
Depends on how cold/hot it is.

>> No.15689809

>>15689521
Not sure if it’s a change in norms but student-teacher interactions seem to be more informal. I don’t mind looser forms of address but it’s hard for me to know when I or my students are being too chummy. At least it, in my experience, amicability doesn’t hurt their learning and my ability to teach.

>> No.15689818

>>15689514
>>15689521
>>15689809
I apologize on behalf of all who sniff your pits and sneak peeks whilst you shower in the lockers.
T. former hormonal-horny weird kid

>> No.15689820

>>15689809
You are being too chummy. You are there to teach and guide them, not be their friend.

>> No.15689829

>>15689809
In my student experience, we referred to teachers either by first name, title + surname, or a nickname. Banter is fine but my teachers always had a certain “hard line” to keep interactions at a level of formality and professionalism. Seems like you’re doing a good job! My best teachers in school and life were always approachable yet had a “distance” allowing for respect if that makes sense.

>> No.15689837

>>15689829
We had this one older teacher who wore a tweed jacket daily and we used to sprinkle ink from our pens on his back because we thought he looked outdated. Hope this didn't happen to any of you guys.

>> No.15689895

>>15689837
Never had any major problems with my boys. I’ve had to scold a few for slapping my ass on their way out from class. That sort of behaviour is what’d I’d expect from my buds in sports but never from a student. Just what is going on with kids!

>> No.15689908

>>15689837
>we used to sprinkle ink from our pens on his back because we thought he looked outdated

I had a teacher who wore tweed in the late 80s and early 90s. I can tell you if anyone dared to do this they would be crying after. Old school teachers are the best.

>>15689895
>for slapping my ass on their way out from class

WHAT THE ACTUAL FUCK.

>> No.15689929

>>15689908
In hindsight it was incredibly mean, we did this every time he turned his back to someone, every class, for several years. No idea how he didn't notice. He must have been 57 back then, not really too old to not notice.

>> No.15689931

>>15689929
Imagine your nice tweed jacket with ink stains on them every time you went to work.. this story makes me feel sad.

>> No.15689935

>>15689929
He noticed. Every night he went home, saw a new ink stain, sighed and wept. You must feel proud.

>> No.15689945
File: 3.75 MB, 1698x947, relaxing.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15689945

Had a comfy time enjoying reading in the sun.

>> No.15690003

>>15688215
you mean besides the book literally entitled the fourth industrial revolution by mr schwab

>> No.15690203

>>15689895
I’n sorry, but that’s so fucking funny! I’m imagining students Naruto-running out of the room with an extended arm that whacks and makes your tweed-trouser-ed ass go boing!!! Some kids just have no boundaries!

>>15689929
This makes me incredibly sad...

>> No.15690502

>>15684360
aren't military coats boxy as shit?

>> No.15690603

>>15690502
bro boxy is da shitt
If it ain’t your taste then
you can always make the waist and all else trimmer at the tailor’s

>> No.15691026

>>15672716
How is it a meme?

>> No.15691560

Not sure if this is /sprezz/ or /tip/ so I'll ask in both.
Planning on buying my first cordovan shoe and I want a classic penny loafer style. I'm debating between the classic Alden loafer or the Crockett and Jones Harvard loafer. What do you think? Is Crockett and Jones really worth almost 200 bucks more?

Aldens:
https://www.theshoemart.com/alden-shoes-mens-penny-loafer-96288-color-8/

Crockett and Jones':
https://www.crockettandjones.com/harvard-darkbrown-cordovan/

>> No.15691697
File: 779 KB, 615x904, quicksprezz-1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15691697

in a rush

>> No.15691756

>>15689945
sounds and looks nice

>> No.15691771

>>15688087
Dilate.

>> No.15691784

>>15691771
Triggered?

>> No.15691839

>>15691784
Post your reddit username.

>> No.15691842

>>15691697
As it should be!

Nice

>> No.15692076

>>15691560
C&J is more British and 'refined', Alden is American and chunkier/rougher but those are slight differences. So long as MiUS/MiE you are looking at minor, if any, differences in quality. Choose the one that more suits your style and taste.

>> No.15692339
File: 2.07 MB, 3120x4160, marynarka.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15692339

Hello /sprezz/. Today was my first day at my job wearing my "new" outfit and it was great! My coworkers gave me a lot of compliments. I am still feeling little bit insecure in this more elegant style but I will carry on with it.

At the end of this month I need to buy new pants. I think about buying in Massimo Dutti - I want to buy navy wool pants.I dont have right fitting pants right now because of my weight loss.

>> No.15692343

>>15692339
Looks good, though that tie isn't my style. Consider a pocket square in the future

>> No.15692362

>>15692339
Congrats!

>> No.15692368

>>15692339
Good job boy, well.. well.. now are you ready to change your mistakes in taste clothes? I mean, your pants look at strange, better change them on light-brown colors..

>> No.15693163

>>15692339
what’s going on with those leggings?
also
wtc jacket

>> No.15693260
File: 3.50 MB, 2268x4032, IMG.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15693260

What are some good tan chinos for a 183cm gent on the slimmer side (68kg)?

I've heard the APC ones are rather good but I am sure there are actual nice heritage brands and menswear producers that do better.

Pic semi-related, my most recent cop

>> No.15693792

bump for the folks who wish to try hard to look effortless

>> No.15693793

>>15693260
I'm a bit taller and heavier than you. Pleated, full-cut pants will look good.

>> No.15694120
File: 73 KB, 1200x1000, breakdown-of-chinas-ener.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15694120

Please help me identify jacket +trousers

thanks

>> No.15694124
File: 202 KB, 1707x960, visual_bottom_cadregatt_byl_01_x960.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15694124

>>15694120
>>15694120

This is the right picture

>> No.15694233

>>15694120
The trousers are a high waisted checker pattern and the jacket is a little small desu

>> No.15694273

>>15694233
ayy lmao

>> No.15694284

>>15694124
Trousers seem to be made up in some kind of tropical wool, maybe VBC Rustic Tropical bunch.
The jacket probably has some wool in it, possibly silk.

It's a promotional picture from Velasca shoes, DM them and ask about the fit.

>> No.15694338

>>15693260
very nice sweater, anon. echoing >>15693793 on the pleated pants, but i would go for a moderately fitted cut. better to play the medium than go to excess and risk overdoing it.

>> No.15694485

I started a new job in a bank so I'm finally dressing nice and not having streetwear goons think I'm dressing up.
I'm pumped because now I can dress nice and have money to get more suits

>> No.15694843

>>15693793
>>15693260
Thanks for your insight. Do you have any recommendations for ones in particular or where to look?

>> No.15695089
File: 75 KB, 225x225, 2Q.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15695089

>>15680923
0

>> No.15695098

I'm confused as to how a jacket should fit at the shoulders. If it is structured should the shoulder seem meet or go past the shoulder bone? Is it the same for unstructured jackets?

>> No.15695466

Anyone have any experience with Proper Cloth? I absolutely love this irish linen suit. It's 700USD, and I'm not sure if that's a good price or not as I have no experience with the brand.
The suit:
https://propercloth.com/tailored-clothing/bedford-beige-irish-linen-suit-500.html

>> No.15695556
File: 2.64 MB, 2856x4295, 05-11-2020.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15695556

Finally had some time to post. Better photo of >>15691697 dressed down a bit more. Trousers are extremely meme with an intersecting double self-belt.

>>15694843
Most of my stuff is locally made bespoke. Commonsuits is a huge source of inspiration for trousers, and they'll look amazing on your frame too.

>>15695098
It depends on so many factors and what silhouette you're after. On a properly fitted suit the armholes should be as tiny and high up as you can possibly fit into. You should FEEL them under your arms. If the shoulder on a jacket are pulled up, it should not lift as there should be no room under your arms for it to move upwards. This is the same regardless of if you have a structured shoulder or not because the BOTTOM of the armhole needs to be tight either way. Jackets that do not have this characteristic are unwearable.

With this constraint, the only thing left here is the angle from the base of the armpit to the end of the shoulder. I prefer a structured look, so my jackets extend about 1-2cm past where my shirts end (see pic related). You can go somewhere between 0 to a max of ~35 degrees. Anything more and it starts to look very 80s.

>> No.15695567
File: 2.93 MB, 3125x3024, skullz.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15695567

Some details on an old Hackett dress shirt.

>>15695466
>Baird McNutt Linen
It's a decent mill. I've had a few OTR jackets in their fabrics. Just make sure it's a heavier linen so it drapes away from your body.

>soft shoulder.
Don't go fully unstructured unless you're absolutely jacked. Standard Athletic build works well with light/semi-structuring and absolutely domineering in a more heavily structured look. Generally people expect jackets to be structured. You risk looking smaller than you are in an unstructured one. Absolutely avoid if you're a twig.

>unlined
Good, the Finshings look well done too.

>half canvas
Do not go half canvas on a summer suit, ever. Gluing stuff to material that is supposed to breathe is mega dumb. Whatever you do, make 100% sure you go for the fully canvassed option. Ideally you'd want to get an ultra-light canvas that's maybe a bit more cropped than normal. Heavier weight linen helps keep the jacket draping okay despite the lighter/shorter canvas.

>> No.15695590
File: 3.55 MB, 3082x5343, jacket-fit-ex.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15695590

>>15682521
Congratulations on the weight loss. I hope you're super proud. Really wanted to show you this, only just found the time to do so. Those jackets might be very challenging to save. This is a full canvas bespoke jacket. Prince of Wales check should give a really good example of the overall cut/flow of the jacket and how the waist suppression is achieved.

>> No.15695639

>>15695556
>Trousers are extremely meme with an intersecting double self-belt.
How is that meme? Those were actually a thing, it's just that you can't buy them in mass produce fashion stores

>> No.15695657

>wake up
>Spier & Mackay still hasn't set up yuropean operations so I have to pay considerable import fees and VAT
charcoalpilled again

>> No.15695661

waxed beige laces on mid brown suede shoes, yay or nay?

>> No.15695664

anyone got any comfy cardigan inspo?

>> No.15695667

>>15695661
Dunno if I've got the right mental image of the colors, but I'd go either with forest green laces or
go tonal with dark brown laces

>> No.15695673

>>15695664
Check this out for sportcoat/cardigan pairing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oz_g4CChnUU

These might be too fine to be comfy but Mark still shows some decent inspo. FWIW, I'm not too crazy about the navy/navy combo he's wearing nor the navy/tangerine one.

>> No.15695694
File: 71 KB, 800x800, loake_inverness_in_brown_suede_1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15695694

>>15695667
this isnt the shoe in question but its a close analogue. my thoughts was it might be an idea to echo elements of the rest of my outfit in the shoe laces, and i wear a lot of beiges lately. it originally came with near matching brown laces.

>> No.15695708

>>15695673
those are lovely, but i find myself wearing more /tip/ sort of clothing. i have had real trouble sourcing a nice sports coat that actually fits me. right now i wear a slightly oversized navy peacoat that im currently in the process of taking the sleeves up of, and that combined with a tatty looking faded black field coat are my only outwear options at present.

>> No.15695718

>>15695694
Stick with stock laces unless you have a vast shoe collection or infinite time to change them. Or just get white ladder laces on everything.

>> No.15695801

>>15695718
stock laces snapped on me, hence why im considering others. ive got a few pairs in black leather but this is my first pair of suede anything.

>> No.15695857

>>15680417
>>15683594
seconding

>> No.15695878

>>15695857
>>15683594
Unfortunately they're bespoke.

If you wanted to get a pair, Commonsuits should offer the style in MTM.

>> No.15696174

So basically everyone not going bespoke is wasting their time and money?

>> No.15696220

>>15696174
No. You can go bespoke, MTM, OTR + tailoring. The key is to have clothes that fit great. All three have their pros and cons.
If bespoke is out of reach then look to MTM. Find a tailor whose house designs you like and who you trust. While it will not fit as perfectly as bespoke it can be pretty damn close and for a fraction of the price. Bespoke offers more in terms of customization and details such as hand-sewing, contrast stitched buttonholes, your choice of lapel etc. MTM has more limited options but still a wide variety within those limits.

>> No.15696224

>>15696220
>>15696174
anything like that in Paris?

>> No.15696440

>>15691697
saved in my inspo folder

>> No.15696728

>>15696174
Absolutely not. The average person has no need for a bespoke suit and never will. The average person has no need for a MTM suit either. RTW, off the rack, and taken to a trailer is more than enough for the normal person just trying to look nice in a shit or for a job. And it's much more cost effective.
When I got married I did a MTM suit and had so many options, I was overwhelmed. I picked buttons, material color, lining material, lapel type, pocket type, vent type, etc. The average person doesn't need to choose all that, and bespoke takes it a step further.
So no, you're not wasting your time not going bespoke. 99% of people buying a suit do not need bespoke and never will.
That being said, if you can afford it, go for it. Even just to say you did one time.
I was supposed to be in Italy (I'm American) this year for my honeymoon but Covid happened and ruined that plan. I was going to go to Naples and have the great Pino Peluso make me a bespoke suit.
Maybe next year, of things change and get better. By that time I'll just have more saved up anyway

>> No.15697063
File: 97 KB, 769x960, ynbtv.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15697063

>> No.15697065
File: 123 KB, 809x1200, paulnewman21-gthumb-gwdata1200-ghdata1200-gfitdatamax.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15697065

Was Paul sprezz or just trad? Because he always looked so good but it's clear he wasn't trying, that's just his normal style.

>> No.15697087

>>15697065
If you take the actual definition of sprezz then he was because effortlessly looking great is the whole point.
If you take what "sprezz" is becoming then no because it is slowly turning into a peacocking Pitti Uomo amalgam of flashy suits and ridiculous attention-grabbing looks.
I doubt you'd see Paul Newman with his jacket sleeves unbuttoned

>> No.15697172

New Thread: >>15697170
New Thread: >>15697170
New Thread: >>15697170

>> No.15697201

>>15697172
Why would you make a new thread when this thread isn't at 310 yet?

>> No.15697202
File: 26 KB, 441x695, 1604515448692.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15697202

He was sprezz because he was so effortless

>> No.15697204
File: 123 KB, 750x992, 1604553676519.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15697204

>> No.15697205
File: 73 KB, 488x684, slz2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15697205

>> No.15697207
File: 79 KB, 520x520, 14685145_f520.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15697207

>> No.15697210
File: 48 KB, 450x300, wmke4p.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15697210

>> No.15697211
File: 36 KB, 480x360, Sapeur+2_0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15697211

Fine, now migrate

>> No.15697836
File: 44 KB, 512x512, sprezzatura guy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
15697836

Sprezzatura /fa/gs gonna be like

>> No.15698201

what

>> No.15698828

Jack is a pedo creep