/fa/ - Fashion

>Double rider
No such thing. The name you're looking for is Perfecto.

Don't buy them.

>>13881152
Wearing a biker style leather jacket without riding, being in a punk band or having a vagina makes you look like a poser

>>13881418
bullshit

>>13881434
Sorry dude,

>>13881418
>biker style
Lol it's a cold weather military style you retard. Wearing a lapelled leather jacket makes you look like a poser if you're not a WW2 vet.

Wearing jeans without mining, being a cowboy or having a farm makes you look like a poser

>>13881442
That's also true

>>13881447
Wearing a tie without having a job makes you look like a poser

Wearing designer clothes without being a model makes you look like a poser

> > 13881468 based

>>13881152
That would be a nice jacket if not for that crap written on the sleeve, I thought CDG was the fancy real brand and only CDG Play did the obnoxious meme branding

Wearing jeans without a manual labor job, wearing chino pants without British or French military experience, wearing wool pants without manager position, wearing jogger or sweatpants without any cardio daily, wearing tech fabric pants without mountaineering a week are posers.

leather jacket threads always bring out the fatties and boomers

Hush you fools, you're going to summon Dante.

OP: I bought a perfecto over the summer, and I'm wearing it right now. A shortlist of all the advice you're going to see:
> you need the face + personality to pull one off, if you look like a manbaby or SLP wannabe you're going to end up in one of those "SAINT" threads
> you've gotta wear it for a while to let it mold to your body and stop looking factory new
> just buy Schott. Everything below that price point is either shitty cheaply made, fake leather, or an imposter. Everything above that price point is either mall brand or high fashion (which there's nothing wrong with, but don't drop $5000 on your first leather jacket if you're not sure you're going to like it).

Overall, it's just a piece of clothing. Wear it with confidence. Putting it on isn't going to magically turn you into an interesting person or a sex god.

>>13881862
youre not supposed to actually give the op good advice here

>>13881862
Did you just go for a classic perfecto? I prefer the English rider shilouyette to the american so I might just settle for a lewis (which is the UK equivalent to schott)

>>13881542
you tried

>>13881862
Good points, though I would argue that aero and belstaff are also worth looking into at that price point, without wavering from the same level of quality

>>13882039
I got the 613S. 618 is the classic as far as I remember, but a lot of people say the fit is quite baggy at the waist / underarms (schott tends to make their jackets fit for middle-aged men). 613S is slim fit, one star. I removed the metal stars from the shoulders because my friends kept giving me shit for how "rough rider" it looked.

If schott made a slim version of the perfecto, like the 613s, but without the stars it would basically be perfect for me.

Don't know much about Lewis leathers, but as general advice when making a big purchase such as this one, you should get the original version / maker before looking into remixes and homages.

>>13881862
Op, I'd also recommend getting something basic. The reason is- double riders are the most memed piece of clothing on this board (possibly in modern fashion atm), and if you can't pull off the basic one, then you certainly won't be able to pull off the several-thousand-dollar designer version by SLP or CDG in your picture. Pieces like that are worn by coke-addicted rockstars, not doughy twinks with male pattern baldness who lurk on ugandan birdwatching boards

remember this poor boy who got so scared of wearing a leather jacket for the first time he made a thread that got 300+ replies?

>>13881587
that's not really CDG that's a lewis leathers jacket with CDG writing and design

>>13881152
>>13881152
They only look good if you're built well, you actually ride a motorcycle, play in a band or you're a 2m tall SLP-runway skinny boi.

I only two shitty ones, other one was 200€ from Nahka-Albert and the other is a similarly manufactured jacket I got for 50€ at a thrift shop. Both are made in Germany, the cowhide-leather is thick and the stitchings haven't fucked up yet. The other is tighter and fits over my shoulders better, the other is loose when opened up but if zipped and with a wool sweater underneath, it's leather teddy-time. The slimmer one has some buttons on the lapels aswell.

If there was only one outfit I could wear all year around (provided shit wouldn't break down by use), I'd only wear a pair of black slim jeans, steel-toed Docs, a plain black t-shirt and a double rider on top.

>>13882148
With the sweater underneath?

I looked at that website that makes the devil may cry jacket and I found something I like. Are their other jackets decent?

>>13881862
>>13882643
Do not fear, I am coming.

>>13882148
Is this the same guy who made a replica of hellboys jacket?

>>13881862

Very good advice overall. I agree on the Schott too, but either get on on ebay for a steal and accept it's flaws (too baggy, classic fit, cropped), or get one of their newer models that is more suited to the /fa/ standard of perfectos.

I went with the former, since I ain't trying to be SLP. It just means I had to mind the fit and accept the cropped nature of a classic cut that actually fit correctly in the shoulders and sleeve.

>>13881152
I own this and also a Givenchy leather with the same styling (twin waist buckles, etc).

Leather jackets (for fashion) work based primarily on fit.

It needs to fit tight and cropped. It should be impossible or nearly impossible to zip up. And it should end at the belt line (I.e. your whole ass should be uncovered)

Reasons why they look bad:
1) people zip them up
2) they’re too big
3) they’re too long
4) they’re too wide in the shoulders

Keep it as small as possible. Also good Leathers will stretch out so if it’s difficult to wear, keep wearing it.

>>13881152
Some of what I say reiterates what others have already said here, so apologies in advance.

1) First thing you have to do is try them on in person. Leather jackets are difficult to buy online due to sizing, but this one is particularly tough to size because different manufacturers cut the jacket differently. You have to go from store to store and see what works best for you. When you go, make sure you wear the clothing combination you plan on wearing with the jacket.

2) Though they can be paired with just about anything, they are a 'statement' in fashion that is iconic and has many connotations. Unlike a standard cafe racer, the double-rider style does not go unnoticed, so be aware of this. If you don't want undue attention, don't wear it.

3) You are concerned about 'justifying' the purchase. Let me tell you a few things about leather. To source and buy enough leather for a jacket like this is around 300-400, depending on the quality of the leather. Then, to get someone to stitch it together from either another jacket or a pattern is at the lowest around 200. So, that's 600 right there. Schott perfectos on their website start at 800. Consider that fact. Leather jackets are expensive because a) the quality of the material used + b) the quality of manufacture + markup. The only 'value' you can get out of a jacket like this is to wear it a lot. If you plan on doing so, then it's worth it. If you don't, it's a waste.

cont.

>>13884603
cont.
4) Leather sizing in particular is quite difficult to understand if this is your first jacket, so I'll try to make it clear and concise. Fashion jackets are to be as close fitting as possible, and as >>13884535 said, it should be nearly impossible to zip up properly. Practical jackets are not like this: if you want a leather jacket for riding, then you absolutely need to get a jacket that you can zip up without losing your capacity to breathe. Leather doesn't stretch nearly as much as people think; for example, your sleeves won't get longer by an inch, and things like this. What happens with wear is that the leather tends to conform to your body's proportions, particularly where you bend (elbows, shoulders, waist) and this produces creases. If you ride with a leather jacket, after a year or so you find that parts of the jacket are looser than others, and that creases form that may look unsightly if you're not on a bike and if the jacket is unzipped. That's just what happens. Well worn leather jackets will look slightly oversized on a person...and this is why with older jackets you'll see people pairing it with a scarf, a sweater, and other things to fill out the gaps.

5) Not only do you have to find a manufacturer of the double-rider that fits your body better than others, but you have to make a conscious decision about the type of leather being used. For example, horse-hide is very durable, and can take an excellent polish, however it takes a long time to break in compared with other skins. Lambskin is on the opposite end; it's far more delicate and soft, akin to a fabric, but it's less resistant to potential tearing. Lambskin is used in fashion clothing and in women's purses, but it's almost never seen on riding gear. Also, you have to consider the drape of the jacket. The firmer the skin, the better it drapes for this style.

cont.

>>13884625
cont.

The reason is that there is a lot of heavy hardware (belts, buckles, buttons, zips) that pull the jacket downward in weird places. Unless the lambskin version of this style is 100% new, it'll hang and be pulled in places that look awful, which is why it's usually best to go with cow/horse; horse will be far more expensive, but if you're only buying one and it looks awesome on you, it's worth it.

6) Schott focus: I've tried on many jackets in this style, and I finally had a chance to try on a Schott two summers ago. It was a severe disappointment, for a few reasons. a) >>13884514 mentioned the problem of the fit: it's a known problem with Schott perfectos; they're made for the bulk of their clientele, and like Wested, everything is generous in the stomach area. Now, this is fine if you're riding, but if you are buying the jacket purely for style, then it'll look awful. b) One thing that affected me in particular was that the examples I tried on simply didn't fit. Some things would work, and others would be far out. For example, if the shoulders fit perfectly, the stomach was too big. If the stomach was perfect, the length was too long. There was always something fucked up about the jacket, and I tried on 4 of them in different combos and styles. I came to the unfortunate conclusion that a Schott perfecto just wasn't for me. Granted, all except one of my jackets were custom made to my size, so my expectation of an off-the-rack Schott was definitely influenced by this. But considering that Matchless, Belstaff, and Vanson fit me fine, I was a little annoyed. This is why it's important to try them on in person, and if you're not satisfied with the fit, do not buy it. Schott is not the only good manufacturer of leather jackets, they're just the largest in USofA.

cont.

>>13881418
That argument is stupid as fuck.
Most pieces of clothing out there have an original function and every one wears them beyond the original intent.
Do you call someone that wears jeans a poser?
Or everyone that wears a certain type of sneakers a poser?
By your own standards, everyone is a poser. Including punks. Punks wear jeans, jeans weren't created for punks, so punks are posers.
What a fucking stupid logic...

7) The belt: Belted jackets can be difficult to size because you're deciding where your body will be cut in half. This is yet another reason you have to try these jackets on in person before buying. It's a visual problem, and the clearances have changed over the decades. Early 50's jackets tended to have the belt at or just below the navel. Compare that with today where trousers are low and thus trouser belts are low. Modern fashion double-riders have mimicked this extension of the torso, for better or worse. So when you try one on, you do have to zip and belt up the thing to be sure that when you're wearing it in a freak rain storm, you're not going to look like you're wearing your father's perfecto or that you're wearing one that is too short for you.

8) Sleeves: In general, if you ride a bike you need longer sleeves with this design. Unless the jacket has gussets (the accordion looking extensions at the back of the shoulders), then longer sleeves are necessary so that when you bend forward to grab the bars, the jacket doesn't pull back to expose your wrists. Fashion jackets however do not take this into account; they are cut so that it looks fine when you're standing up. This explains a phenomenon that you may have already noticed: that certain jackets for whatever reason have really long sleeves compared with the normal sizing. Once again, take it into account: if you want a riding jacket, long sleeves are normal. If you want a fashion jacket, then don't bother with something like Schott (who tend to have longer sleeves).

9) Custom sizing: many companies do this, including Schott. This costs more, but in the end it's better for you in my view if you're spending money on a jacket that is meant to last you a lifetime. Aero, Vansen, and others do custom sizing as well. Don't be afraid of custom sizing: call the manufacturer and ask them if it's possible, tell them your size (be honest; false sizing just wastes money), and see what happens.

cont.

cont.

I've had nothing but good experiences with custom sizing, and the one time I bought a jacket off-the-rack, it turned out to be the one I wear the least because quite frankly it doesn't look as good as the others on me. So, if it's your one and only jacket, spend the money to make it right.

Bottom line: try on as many as possible, make sure you wear the clothes you plan to wear with the jacket, ask manufacturers about custom sizing and how much it costs, and consider seriously the type of hide it's made of. Also be open to the possibility that the double-rider style may not be for you. I have yet to find one that I like on my body, so I simply haven't bought one. I may never, but that's okay. Good luck.

>>13882643
From what I know, the other jackets from Soul Revolver are fine. They are nearly all slim-fit though, so just be aware of this. No beer bellies, and if you plan on bulking up in the winter, their jackets simply won't fit. Which one are you looking at? Also, there are MANY companies that do this sort of thing...don't be afraid to look at others.

>>13884637

Yep. It's hit or miss with Schott. I'm 5'10" 160.lbs, broad shoulders and some muscle, no gut or anything, and finally got lucky with a size 40 vintage early 90's Dur'O'Jac 518 for about 120.00 usd on ebay. The leather is in good condition, but I had to make a few changes, repairs etc. This particular jacket fits me very well, but it is a little short due to the nature of it being an actual riding jacket. I had to get used to it, and it made me realize how ill fitting modern trousers really are haha.

Sure, there are things I would change. I would make the arms slimmer, make the length an inch longer, but it's as good as it gets on the cheap, and like I said, i'm not doing the SLP thing anyhow. I'm just a dirty old metalhead who likes leather and visits /fa/ too much.

>>13884678
Vintage jackets tend to fit me better as well, but for a double-rider I was very keen on getting something that I would make my own.

Something I didn't mention, but is another fail for me with that design as a fashion design, is that when it's unzipped and unbuckled, the belt just flies everywhere. It hits desks, smashes into chairs, and knocks down valuable Faberge eggs. It's stupid....the jacket is a style icon, no doubt, but if it's used as solely a fashion jacket, it just gets in the way. Not to mention that when it's unzipped, you have lots of 'fabric' flowing around. Like wearing a double-breasted suit jacket open...there's lots of material, all going nowhere. It doesn't look good, in my opinion.

You see this problem (albeit in a smaller way) with the B3 bombers which people wear nowadays in malls and other non-piloting situations. Lots of buckles and paraphernalia swinging around, getting caught on things. Then they wear sweatpants and sneakers with it....god.

There's nothing wrong with being a metalhead, liking leather, or visiting /fa/. I'm a leather nut, and my next jacket should be ready sometime this coming week. However, I think it'll be my last for a while...I have all the styles that I've wanted to wear regularly, so the rotation is now full. My oldest jacket is almost a decade old now, and it's given me superb service (a Wested Indy), and I still wear it when I'm doing any outdoors stuff (mostly gardening and repair/maintenance on the house), and the other ones all get regular wear except my formal coats which I have to be a little more careful about.

>>13884603
based

C/N this balmain leather?

>>13884721

Yeah, mine is for utility when it actually gets cold here in Southern CA (almost never the past 10 years), and that damn buckle is always bashing something haha.

BTW I know you get shit here, but your posts are always good, and I enjoy reading them even though I don't share your taste in clothing.

>>13884777
That's very kind of you, and I appreciate it Anon. I try to only comment on things that I know about...if it's something I don't know about (like shoes) I tend to 'shut up and listen'...lol As for getting shit on, well...these things happen. I tend to find it hilarious, because it's not for any rational reason. But I did kick the hornet's nest a bit...it was only after I bought the DMC jacket that I found out how polarizing the game was in terms of how they redesigned the main character. For me, it was just a fun jacket that had a hood that I wanted...but for others it's an extension of the manifestation of all the things wrong with a favorite character of theirs and perhaps the gaming industry in general.

Clothing taste is always an interesting area to debate, and what I've found is that it is far more heavily influenced by where a person lives than by anything else, including their genetic predispositions. I'll never forget the first time I saw someone wearing a Hawaiian shirt....back in the day, you'd only see them on TV, like on Baywatch or whatever, but when I saw one on a person irl I thought they must be mad. It was wholly inappropriate for the location and climate, and it looked like shit. In retrospect, it fitted him well...the fit wasn't the problem, the environment was.

When we extend this outwards, then it's not only about the physical environment but also the social one too. When I briefly lived in Japan, there were areas of the cities where you could really wear whatever the fuck you wanted....you were just a part of 'that' crowd. Similarly, if you live in Berlin, London, or New York you can almost get away with anything and no one cares. Sure, you might get mugged or knifed or acid thrown in your face, but the point is that it's not socially unacceptable to wear something different.

This freedom isn't universal, so I'm lucky right now.

>>13884811

Hey man np. I always appreciate the people on 4chan that a. actually know wtf they are talking about, and b. produce posts that are interesting to read. One of the best things about 4chan is the geographically and cuturally diverse amount of people you are able to interact with in a completely unfettered manner, but it also means you have to ignore the trash and the crazy. I remember that whole fiasco about the DMC jacket, I simply found it fascinating on a number of levels.

I love your commentary on clothing taste. It's funny how much conformity and social pressure there is concerning clothing. I always appreciate somebody doing something different, even if I personally find it goofy. I guess that's just the artist in me. We get used to taking risks, and at times find ourselves so far outside of what is socially acceptable, and the whole situation just seems silly. I feel like this has changed a bunch in the past 20 years though. The interconnectedness of our information society has had the effect of reducing the shock value of certain ideas / things, but it has also reduced some of the magic.

Anyway, i realize I'm rambling now.

>>13884830
It was a very odd situation, that's for sure; if I find any other fits that work with the jacket other than the ones I have now, I'll probably create a new thread with new pics, just to see what happens...lol But in my life, the jacket has already passed into the 'passe' situation with my social group. Nobody notices it, nobody cares. Which is what I expected, but I know it will not be a universal experience.

You know what really cut it for me about clothing taste? My uncle wears crazy shit. I mean, crazy shit. For no reason, to the point that if he's walking down the street you can instantly find him because no one would dress like this. You know, purple corduroy trousers or heeled boots (even though he's well over 6 foot 3), hats of varying sizes and colours...essentially a white pimp. All that being said, he's well over 60. I've always wondered about it, and finally I asked him one day, trying to be polite, 'how do you manage to wear things like this and not be self-conscious?' He replied with a laugh, 'I wear it for myself....I've spent enough of my life wearing clothing for others'. He worked in finance in an office building, so he was always wearing suits...and perhaps there was social pressure to get the next cut, the next watch, the next shoes...I understand that.

But I wish I'd known that years ago. For most of my life, I wore things to make others notice me or look at me or think I'm attractive. After I spoke with my uncle, things started to change, and I just started to wear things that I wanted to wear (if I wasn't at work). It started with all black because that was the easiest thing....then I started added colours and what I call 'randomness'.

I'm at the point now where my personality dominates what I wear (in other words, charisma counts). The only thing that MUST be adhered to is the fit of clothes on your body. Beyond this, go for what makes you happy.

>>13884858

Awesome. Your uncle is a true alpha male specimen!

>I'm at the point now where my personality dominates what I wear (in other words, charisma counts). The only thing that MUST be adhered to is the fit of clothes on your body. Beyond this, go for what makes you happy.

This. Make sure it fits, make sure you personally like it, and you are all good. Fuck the haters haha.

>>13884858
As a minor disclaimer though: what I said does not in any way imply that planning, coordination, colour and texture schemes, and shapes do not matter. They absolutely matter. It's just that there comes a point where you begin to see people dressing similarly, across the spectrum of groups in your society. 20 y/o dress kinda the same....35 y/o dress kinda the same. Fat beardies dress the same (black heavy frame glasses with flannel shirts untucked) and young financiers dress the same (slim fit suits...always). Then you begin to see that there are uniforms in society that we all wear, just slightly different variations based on our knowledge and financial capability.

When you see all this, and how predictable it is, eventually you just say 'fuck-it'. I'm going to wear what is comfy, or what I like. Again, this doesn't mean you through fit out the window. It just means that you start with a blank slate when you plan instead of starting with the standard uniform and slightly altering it to 'show' your personality.

But again, you need to be in the right place in order for this to work. Going to Church in a wife-beater is stupid. Playing at a tennis club in cargo shorts is stupid. It's always a combination of function+form, and my own breakdown has function over form by quite a lot. But that's just me.

>>13884873
Well, he is in some respects. He doesn't give a fuck what other people think, and he loves to antagonize people...lol We get along well...

>you will never achieve his success and taste in clothes

What are people's thoughts on these types of jackets?

>>13885567
Beyond shit imo

>>13885577
All of them or just that one, because it's just an example. I can't really rock black so I have to go with brown.

>>13884603
>>13884625
>>13884637
>>13884656
>>13884669
>>13884721
>>13884811
>>13884830
>>13884858
>>13884879

>>13885601
Why did you leave out the part where he was talking to himself?

>>13885601
Astonishing! I've never been labeled an Autist before in my entire life! I mean, it certainly didn't happen when I made the first DMC thread. I'm blown away by your originality. Such subtlety...such..depth! I can't wait to read your screenplay...

>>13885610
Because I wasn't, fool of a took!

>>13885567
There are lots of problems with this jacket Anon. Part of the reason it looks so poor is the stitching. First, the zippers are exposed, which is in many ways a no-no with good quality leather jackets (the zippers are normally concealed, especially the mains, to prevent moisture/water from blowing in). Second, the main zipper should be bi-directional, as a single zipper is more prone to breaking at the waist unless you have a secondary attachment (like a belt). Third, the elbow stitching is useless: why would you hae many separate panels at the elbow? They don't provide more padding or reinforcement, nor do they provide extra material for the bend. They're a poor design choice, worthy of the Pakistani companies that make these kinds of designs. Fourth: This 'lack of purpose' can be seen in the shoulder pieces, which do nothing, as well as the waist clinchers which clearly don't have enough material in between to actually accomplish anything. Finally, the neck and cuffs are far too wide, with the neck being particularly ugly.

Hopefully that was precise enough for you. Sorry, but this jacket has many examples of design elements that are thrown into the leather jacket soup that you see coming out of Pakistan (one of the largest manufacturers of leather in general, due to their lack of environmental laws on what chemicals you can dump into public waters after use). I would avoid like grim death unless you want to look like a Migrant.

>>13884535
awful advice. Sorry. If u r over 6 feet tall, no perfecto will fit at the waist (AND the shoulders). Y r u trying to mimic some obsolete look from 1970 ramones is the ultimate meme fail.

OP, get a jacket that is comfy, one where you can actually put your hands in your pockets or do want to be wearing a baby's bib.

>Reasons why they look bad:
real reasons are, hemline is at/above your waist, if you are tall/narrow shoulders, u will look ridiculous with a perfecto that fits your shoulders, since it will also be way too short for your torso.
>people zip them up
they are meant to be zipped up, to protect you from the cold
>they’re too big
judging by what u wrote, u only think they look good if they look like baby's bibs
if u are shorter or average height, u can get away with wearing a normal perfecto, it will fit your shoulders and arms and torso, but baggy in the stomach if you are skinny.
>they’re too long
sorry, but a good higher end perfecto will be "long" and look good, any rick, belstaff, schott (some models), looks good as a normal fit, not a tiny bib picrel
>they’re too wide in the shoulders
false, if you buy lambskin, calfskin, or cowhide, the leather is nice and soft, and looks way better with some droop on the shoulders, you are sounding like a reddit fag with your need to have a perfecto suctioned onto your body

>Keep it as small as possible
sorry, but no. unless you are happy with it suctioned onto your body, and can't even tie your own shoes
>good Leathers will stretch out so
no, no, no. good jackets, are cut with good proportions, and will look good beceause of that. leather does not stretch. it's leather, no leather stretches, it just "relaxes" but just a tiny amount. if a jacket is tight as fuck on you when you first get it, it will remain tight as fuck. if the jacket is a boxy, poorly cut design, like most lower end jackets are, it will never look good, no matter how tiny it is

>>13886328
Yeah that's not the one I'm looking at, I just mean the cafe racer style in brown leather. That's a good point on the elbows, I hate putting my elbow down on a seam. I'm a little thicker than that guy, so the neck would be more filled out. I got a leather duffel bag from Pakistan or somewhere over there and it fucking stunk. I had to put it outside because it smelled so bad. I'm not fucking with that shit anymore.

Please unsell me from buying a shearling jacket, shearling jackets look so good.

>>13887200
gay

>>13887200
shearling is cringe cop-out for actual layering and the trend ended 3 years ago

>>13886641
Cafe racers in general are always fine, but there are differing opinions as to what direction you should go in terms of aesthetic. I personally prefer either extremely simple like this:

https://www.schottnyc.com/products/unlined-cafe-racer-jacket.htm?color=2&catID=5

Or something complex like this:

https://vansonleathers.com/mens-collection-of-motorcycle-jackets-racing-suits-pants-chaps-more/37-original-star-racing-jacket-ACE.html

What you'll notice though is that when proper cafe racers get more complex in design, it's either because of colour schemes or because of specific add-ons that make riding more convenient. Expansions at the waist that work, zipper pulls that allow for venting either in the front or rear of the jacket, shoulder reinforcements and areas suited to include armor (which you wear in case of collision), that sort of thing.

Fashion jackets in the cafe-racer style 'mimic' these things but don't apply them practically, which means that if you go in that direction, a discerning eye will notice the fakery with ease. Just be aware of that...it's not a complete no-no, but it is something that I would avoid if you can spend the same money on something real.

>>13887200
I can't man...I always love the look. The problem today is that we've gone through something of a shearling renaissance, probably because of the recent WWII movies that came out that included characters flying. You see it come in waves though. In the 80's, there were a lot of pilot movies, so the Aviator style became extremely popular once again. Then in the late 90's it died out and jackets got 'efficient' in design again. Now shearling and B3s are back. These things happen.