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>> No.18073248 [View]
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18073248

>>18073239
>Less strong leather note? Or other notes that are added?
neither. it's avant-garde, the leather note is extremely dominant and synthetic like pleather, so aggressive it borders on rubber. yet, it's beautiful.
>Christophe Laudamiel is, among many other things, a trained chemist (MIT) and a live wire of epic intensity. He is also arguably the most inventive creator of accords working today. His former employer IFF owes him an enormous debt of gratitude; at every trade show for years, the IFF tent demonstrated a dozen or so accords incorporating proprietary materials, all done by him. Going from one to the other was like pushing buttons on exhibits at a science museum. Each performed a startling dance in the Platonic space of smells to illustrate a law of nature. Laudamiel’s take on perfumes is wonderfully seditious, and probably elicits equal parts exasperation and respect in commercial perfumery circles. He now at last has his own firm, The Zoo, and I pray it succeeds.

The initial, striking impression is a weird rubber note reminiscent of Bulgari Black, but without the dense, sweet vanilla-salicylate heart. Instead of being dark green, the background here is golden, and after a while spent focusing, as with a microscope, up and down the depth of the perfume, you discern two more skeins to the swirling chorus, a honey-like background and a mysterious, transparent green-floral medium. This is, oddly, both a solar fragrance and one suggesting an enclosed space. If I had to describe it with one image, it would be a paneled Frank Lloyd Wright living room with large, mitred glass windows, at once confined and radiant. There simply is no other fragrance like this out there. [...]
LT

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