/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Ok bros, gonna do what you all suggested, made a hydrogen peroxide rinse 1:10 with ro water, water is cold for now gonna throw some ice bottles in as I do no know where to get a in line air chiller. Will change again in 3 days

Plus please give judgements on my absolutely illogical growtent. Sorry am retarded

Root rot! Hydroponic (DWC) deep water culture / indoor cannabis thread. damnit bros, do I have to completely throw in the towel here?

hey, i need to buy ryobi:
impact driver
extra battery(s)
angle grinder
12v car charger
>Im not using these for work, just the occasional little project

amazon 1.5ah battery is $25, can i trust these batteries to not be shot?
home depot 1.5ah battery is $50
I found regular impact driver, 1.5ah battery and lil charger for $60, (impact +2 batteries for $100)
sooooo.... $40 for battery, $20 for impact driver and charger, sounds like a decent deal?

Ill buy an angle grinder from flea market, is $15 a fair price?
I saw a car charger and angle grinder on offer up for $25 like a year ago and didnt buy it :(
car charger seems like a hard item to find.

so i have a ryobi drill that i believe is shot cuase i see it spark up a lot.
the drill can get torx head construction screws into old wood just fine, but i cant get regular philipshead screws to screw all the way in. it always looses power and never gets the last 1/4in of the screw in before i start stripping the bit.
will a brand new ryobi impact driver solve my problems?

I need to know how to dismantle a master padlock. It's not showing anywhere on google so far..no ads no specs no nothing. What I have is a 50mm brass "version" of the 141d, but it's not 141d bec. I have a 50mm variant. The closest I found is an aluminum body 40mm. And I found no dismantle video of it.
Why I want to dismantle it? I want to rekey it with a more...sinister core.

>>1232216
>Nothing in this post will work, and most of it is an easily-traceable felony.
So nothing work AND can still be considered a traceable felony ?
I'm wondering how can it be traced, as nobody is likely to notices it, because you claimed IT DOESN'T FUCKING WORK.
tl,dr; GTFO of this thread nigger, we don't serve your kind here.

On the other hand, you still didn't answer what TV technology you need to jam, OP.

>>1231030
>>1231074
>thrift store
Thirding this.

One the other hand, we have our vintage-cabinet /diy/nosaur that pops up sometimes here...

Does anyone knows how to summon him ?

>>1231306
First question is : is your nieghboor watching TV through Air(analog or digital), cable, Satellite or DSL ?

Different signal niggering strategies applies.

Air/cable :
Get an old VHS VCR and a gay porn tape, make sure VCR is prehistoric enough to out it's signal through a UHF/RF-modulator (aka antenna cable).
Most modulators are adjustable, so plug the VCR with the gay porn playing in it, and adjust the modulator until it jams the actual TV program you're watching.

Two options :
1*/ you're on DTV and your TV is not smart enough to detect a good ol' analog signal : DTV is just jammed, all the multiplex is unwatchable.
2*/ you're on analog or your TV is fucking smart to auto-switch on analog : gay porn ensues xD

Cable :
Same as before, but frequency range differ from "air" TV : build a RF-modulator on the appropriate range (as it's for a jammer a crappy one with a *metric* shitton of harmonics would be ok)

Sat : kick the dish, those old ladies have to be aimed toward the Sat with a 1° precision and are a pain in the ass to readjust, old man will be pissed off until the sat guy come to deal with the dish.

DSL :
You need to corrupt the baseband 4kHz-2Mhz, so his DSL datarate goes sufficely poor to be incompatible with TV carrying.
Member the composite out of the VCR ? it outputs an 1Mhz-ish signal : get a *matching transformer* to adapt 75R TV-impedance to 125R phone-impedance or use a fucking 24V/240V (or 12V/110V if you live on the retarded side) transformer, signal will be distorded as fuck but circa 4-6V of amplitude which will be fairly enough to jam the whole DSL band, considering added harmonics and attenuation at such frequency because of the unsuitable type of transfo.
>Hardest part is to wiretap the shit on old man's phone line : if it's not possible, a 10-22nF 400V non-polarised capacitor plugged in parallel on the line will nigger DSL-spectrum enough to forbid TV... Try it at home to figure the best capacitor value to plug.


Have fun !

So I'm about to dump some pics of my oven. My bottom element stop working so I decided to investigate

>>591246
Oh thank you !

So I should use lumber boards and coat them with an oil based stain or varnish. Probably treat the lumber with some sort of repellent before installation

What about vapor retarders/barriers ?
Any pointers in that direction ? Frost is a considerable factor.

>>591125
Okay I found this brand of ply which says 'shuttering Ply'. Its film coated and durable and can be used for external applications since its weather resistant. Maybe this can be used

>>591120
Yeah it'll be available in mainland India, but I'll have to check whether its available here. My state is cut off during the winter and is a remote area even by India standards. Also, the climate here is waaay didn't than the mainland. India is hour and tropical. Over here its cold and extreme. The building material and practices also differ, so I may have to check for availability of such products

Hmm.. I could coat it with lacquer or something along the lines. To make it waterproof and probably insect proof. I could also skip the board entirely and coat it with white cement/POP

>>591037
>>591019

Okay.. Some googling turned up this product called Neopor by BASF. But I can't find any sellers online.
Similar products are available.

Ok assuming that I install these, would covering it by ply boards be sufficient ?

>>590807
See that's the problem. It has two layers of bricks, but the structure has already been constructed. The house is complete, so I was looking to add insulation to the outside or the inside as its the only way I can do it

>>590806
The weather here is impossible. Harsh and extreme. Cold and the hot ones both, but cold season is a whole new level.

I initially thought of timber cladding. Would it stand the weather ? I'm concerned about damage from rains or sleet. Would a ply board cladding work ?

Plaster , well.. Can I directly apply plaster to it ?
Seems like ply board is economical for me coz timber is expensive here

>>590794
India. Its a place called Kashmir.

Putting another layer of brick would blow the costs sky high

>>590745
You have no idea. Its beautiful for tourists. For us , well... Haven't you watched The Descendants ?


Traditionally, no material is used as insulation. A nine inch brick wall covered on both sides by a coat of plaster. That's all. All this talk about R values made me wonder about a better way.
I can get insulating materials from outside state , but transportation costs would be a big factor. EPS foam boards, fiberglass batts are manufactured in the country I think . So I was looking to diy the installation. My dad is pretty skilled in the diy stuff , so yeah..
The greatest hurdle is that we have nothing like Home Depot or Lowes. Have to look pretty hard for the right stuff

>>590727
Alright thanks ! Also, can I diy it ?
I googled stuff , and looks like the best course would be to glue foam boards using white cement to the brick and then top it up by a vapor barrier. What I can't figure out is what to cover it by. Can eps foam be painted directly and left for the elements ? Or maybe I can fix ply boards on it and paint it instead.
Open to suggestions guys.
Thanks again !

>>590711
Alright. What kind of insulation should I use on the outside ? Would foam stand the outside elements and can I directly fix it to the brick wall? Also, I want to insulate other rooms in the house too. Does that have to be done on the outside too ? Thanks anyway.

Hi /diy/

I have a question regarding insulation. I live in a third world country and am amazed by the construction practices in other places.

Coming to the point , I live in an area around the Himalayan foothills. The average temperature here during the winter is 40-45 degrees and goes below that at night. We have this construction technique where we fix a hollow area in the foundation and put stone slabs as flooring over it. We then close it off by brick/mortar and light firewood below it through a small opening. This makes the room quite warm and it retains its heat for about 12hrs. Now , I wanted to add foam board insulation to the room , to increase the heat retention properties. My only concern is that the foam would melt by the heat. Is there a workaround to this ?
Also, can I install laminate our vinyl flooring in the room ? The flames heat the slab floor directly.

>>586544
This was what I was looking for. I can stick anything in the tank as long as it gets the job done. Also, I don't use the water for drinking. Just for bathing and washing.
So a rod of pure zinc would corrode instead of the element , right ?
Also I've noticed that if I stretch the wire , meaning decrease the no of turns per unit length , then the water gets much hotter much quickly , but it also causes rapid coil failure. Any workaround to it ?

Oh and the tank is embedded in a concrete wall of sorts

Hey sup /diy/ !
I live in a third world dump and needless to say , the techniques they user here are from the previous century or so.
Ok so here's the deal. The hot water system in my house is kind of primitive. Its a tank made of beaten copper and its heated by an immersion heater. The immersion heater itself is nothing but a coil of solenoid shaped Nichrome wire wrapped around a porcelain core. We just take two connections from the mains and stick it inside. No thermostat or grounding. So far it does the work , but I guess its extremely wasteful and inefficient when it comes to energy consumption. Also , it needs a high enough voltage to work properly , which isn't available here in the winter. Also , the coil wastes away over time due to corrosion and its an absolute pain in the ass to change the coil.

What kind of modifications should I make to the heater to make it either :

1. Efficient in terms of heating capacity
Or
2: Stop or slow down the corrosion of the coil


Energy consumption doesn't matter coz electricity here is almost free.

Also, could you guys point me to some resources where they show efficient builds of a heater.

Stuff I found on Google was.. Well.. Unsatisfactory