/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>289222
This Guy. I seriously have haved mroe money on just GAS alone going this route; nto even entioning the bullshit taxes I sued to pay.

Has anyone tried spray on truck bed liner, with nylon canvas and steel wire mesh?

Seems liek it'd be insanely easy to make (compared to kevlar and STF) but would be pretty damn tough.

I'd suggest using a spray adhesive and some weights to add a layer of veneer instead; though if you want the no-slip surface, you might wanna go for using plasti-dip spray; the upside of that is that when ti wears out, you just peel it off and respray it.

>>287486
That is fantastically clever; but I bet it'd sag like hell after a while.

>>287461
Got any more close-ups, might be easier to get an idea of the situation that way.

My apologies, I didn't mean to sound accusatory; I'm violently ill and rather exhausted; and have been perusing page upon page of questions with no progress. what I intend is to have a thread to show the progress of all this question-asking.

I need to make it a point not to allow my ill humor effect my usual helpful demeanor; even in these extenuation circumstances I know, but every man makes mistakes.

Plywood with 2x4 reinforcing. Either attach to the lip around the bed (Or just lay it there), or give it legs to match the height.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/volpinprops/3383268111/

http://www.therpf.com/attachments/f9/daft-punk-guy-helmet-final-p-16-screen-shot-2010-12-28-4.57.24-
pm.png-41581d1293573721

There. Two seconds in Google.

Two.
Seconds.

Earlier version of the armor. I've been working on it since these photos; but I'm lazy and don't feel like using my camera. I'll do it on sunday, when I actually have an hour off.

Bored. Tired of seeing stupid questions and no in-progress posts. Prove to me /diy/ isn't just a bunch of armchair handymen.

Or don't; honestly I'll keep doing this sort of thing either way.

Let's show you what 016 has been up to lately...

-Propane Forge (All parts there, not yet tested, for fear of it exploding)
-1969 beetle (Buddy's project, pictures forthcoming if I can get some permission)
-Ironman Figurine (Sculpture is a nice way to relax)
-Automail armor (Because I decided to get into a competiton between me and another crafter. I'm begin lazy and making it out of craft foam, so sue me.)

The schematics for the lights, or the diagrams/blueprints for the masks themselves?

If the latter; stop being lazy; it took me two seconds ot find it on google image searches.

If the former; they're literallytalented /diy/ers project LED flashers; though you can go more complex with them if you want. There are entire make magazine issues dedicated to that sort of thing, if you really need them, I'll aggregate a few examples and see if the spam detector doesn't hate me for linking things.

Don't forget to post pictures of your work in progress.

>>287456
I'm a CAD tutor/part-time draftsman, so I see all sorts of odd stuff and pick up weird skills on the way.

Dowels tend to not be straight-grained enough, imho. Just buy a hunk of nice, straight-grained cedar and split the bastard to make arrows. Then make a recurve flatbow out of glued layers of a wood with a high tensile/bending strength. Looking in my handy-dandy reference guide, that means you probably want Sweet Birch, whatever that is. there are about 3 gazillion tutorials on the internet for making a laminated recurve bow, If you can't find them I pity your horrible failure at humanity; I'm guessing with a bit of asking, you can find something with a similar tensile strength in veneer form; which would let you steam and shape them into a really impressive bow.

Anyway, post pictures of the bow you'll invariably never actually make. I'm curious to see it progress.

Keep an eye on where you put the thing; low spots on a property are a magnet for water and flooding, not to mention bugs that follow the water. High and dry means better sight on the wind and the sun; meaning lower cooling bills for those shitty brit winters. Don't be afraid to fill in to raise the building's ground level a smidge; and make sure that your house's floor is level.

I swear to god one day I'll just make the plans for you guys, check them with the local architects to make sure they make sense and would last (basically) forever and then I'll just post PDFs of 15', 20' and 30' square single-level and split level buildings of varying complexity.

It's cheaper to build it from actual building materials. IIRC. Concrete and rebar outer walls 8 inches thick, rebar 18 inches apart ina grid. You can lay out the molds flat on the ground, pour/cast them (don't forget doorways, windows, and holes for plumbing), and then raise them (CAREFULLY) before bolting/locking them together to make a solid form. 4 inches of sprayed cellulose insulation, capped with cheapo drywall, plywood, or anything else you manage. A small-ish 4-room (Kitchen-Bedroom-Livingroom/Office-Bathroom) building shouldn't cost much, and if you use good building sense, you can collect solar+water from the roof, garden with any property space you have, and reduce cooling/heating bills by using either wood-burning stove, steam generator, wind turbine, or something of the type to keep the power going. The end result is a building about 15-20 feet on either side, about 10-11 feet tall at the highest 8 feet tall at the lowest. The floor should be raised off the ground slab (6-8 inches should do it); fill the space with waterproof insulation, and then add a waterproof barrier of some kind before adding flooring. this keeps the ground from sucking away warmth in winter, and is a protection against minor flooding. As a britfag, point the low end of the building southwards, so the sloped roof still catches rays in any weather.

Ratcheting-actuated dual-action OTF spring mechanism.

Basically, the finger-ring mechanism ratchets, putting tension on a spring, and at the end of the "pull" action the tension on the spring is released, sending the knife forward. Then the ratchet turns again (in the same direction, meaning no reset is needed) and produces tension on a second spring, before being released and sending the knife sliding back with a sharp click.

The downside is, the blade has to be fully locked forward before it takes any pressure, otherwise it doesn't engage; but since this is a prop, that isn't a problem, right?

Use an ultrasonic misting element, like the one in a common humidifier to turn the oils into a fine aerosol. If you want this face-mounted, you will need to have a backpack or something similar for the batteries and whatnot.
The way it would work, basically with the ultrasonic mister is that the resivior would be drawn up through a tube into a small chamber which would act as your nasal airway; there the ultrasonic mister would be hit by a stream of the oil (diluted, if possible) to make a fine mist, which can be then drawn into the nasal passages.

If it's a fine oil, you might be able to use a carbuerator-like setup to mist it when you breathe in instead, but the vapor droplets will be very rough (difference in size and reduced surface area compared to fine mist droplets) means it will have a less pronounced effect.

Protip: Epoxy resin doesn't melt polystyrene foam. You could maybe make a custom body form out of foam and then use fiberglass to make the body, and melt the foam with a solvent, to get a lightweight shell.

Received a shipment of materials to make a Arc Reactor prop, worked on a Deadpool costume, fixed a 3D printer, and had some nice sushi.

U mad, OP?

Actually registering it depends on state, but normally, you can register it as a "heavily modified or custom vehicle" and get plates for it that way. Unless you're machining your own engine, you can get it smog-tested with a fair degree of ease; and if you make it light enough you can register it as a motorcycle/quad bike which is a lighter class of vehicle and therefore tends to have lower insurance rates.

As for why; it's cheaper to buy a car than build one of similar quality; if truth is to be told. I ran the numbers, the cost of the parts alone is enormous; nto to mention tools and expertise.

Look; I know you people mean well, but making houses out of containers is a bloody hassle. It's infinitely more economical to make it out of traditional/semi-traditional materials, and more comfortable and less maintenance.

Some ideas include using concrete with high R-value insulation cast right into it; or just using concrete in general, it's sleek, modern, waterproof, tough, and best of all cheap.

Find out what voltage DC it takes, and get a battery bank to suit. Hooking it up might be annoying, unless It's powered by a wall-wart or similar.

Make sure you test the batteries to be ABSOLUTELY SURE they aren't too high of a voltage.

Bought the plastic, and found a possible lighting solution. I'll keep you all posted on my progress.

It'd be do-able, though I'd rather leave it open and have a glass over top of it.

Scroll saw might work for cutting the hole, but you'll still need to cut a new plug, most likely.