/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>411404

Build an electric guitar kit from guitar fetish. Acoustics are advanced work, y'know?

Alright.

Acoustics are a legitimate pain in the nuts to produce. You have to brace the soundboard to counteract the tension of the strings. You have to have to make a jig (if you want to do it right,) in order to make the proper contours. You have to route a neck for the truss rod (which a 6 string bass will need, DEFINITELY, the amount of force exerted in horrifying in terms of wood rigidity.) Select a fingerboard, slot it using the rule of 18 for proper fret placement, then you have to set the neck, fret it, carve a nut, make a bridge, make the saddle for the bridge...

This is not a beginners project. There are several kits out there for amateurs to get into luthiery, but starting from scratch without doing any research, having no tools, or experience is just asking for hours of heartache.

I know /diy/ seems contrary, and where dreams come to die, but often times people come here and ask for unrealistic things. /diy/ is one thing, and that is honest, thus it's negative disposition to the unfamiliar face.

Mostly, you won't be building unless you do your own custom line. You'll mostly be repairing a bunch of poor schlub's guitars at a 60$/hr rate. Flat rates for setups, standard electronics work, etc.

It's hard to make a living unless you have a fairly devoted following, or live in a town that is made of money. I branched out into amp/electronics repair, as well as other guitar related woodworking.

There's no real "certification" for it, but there are schools, certainly. They are expensive, and it will be many, many years before you get your money back.

You'll hate working shops, as an experienced luthier, everyone knows better than you because they've read some Dan Erlewine book (which is a great starting point if you're into it.)

I just bought a Metcal after using a temp controlled Weller for years building guitar/bass pedals and amps. The Metcal makes a WORLD of difference since it's an RF iron instead of using a filament. It's fucking amazing. Anyways, OP, I always flux my parts before I solder them, just because it almost ensures a good connection.

Just know that you're going to lift traces, but if you do that, you can run a hardwire jumper in place of it, if it isn't too long. You can add wonky capacitance and resistance to the circuit by doing that, so make sure your runs are short... or just don't life traces. Those circuit board pens? worthless. Vero board, and eyelet board is what I've used for a long time, never had a failed joint on either. PCBs with lead free garbage? Happens all the time, might be time to upgrade to the lead free irons...

LEAD FREE IS THE DEVIL.

>>374221

Personally, I dig it. Keep posting it, let the arduino kids whine about it while their mom cooks their Ravioli. Lest a mod or Janitor cleans up the cooking posts, fuck it, post 'em.

Op seriously has 4+ cans of Axe on his side table.

I lol'd, but in reality, that room is too small for too much shit. Just sayin'. Get some cable ties and organize your cables you troglodyte.

>>374215

/k/ runs those assclowns out, furthermore... so does /toy/

We're their last hope.

smallbearelec dot com, that's your source for most things pedals. Inexpensive because he limits his stock, so he buys in MASSIVE amounts, which makes it cheapo-depot for us nerds.

I like that LED lit acrylic bottom. I whipped up a batch of Zvex SHO clones for my guitarist buddies who are amp-dirt types.

I might put acrylic bottoms on those. Good idea, foo'!

>>285889

lol'd

The braid is ground, The center conductor is hot.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=2h_1v_2t_3w

^^^ All you need,.

>>281414

>pedels

gtfo.

>>281400

>implying this is /k/ and the airshit hate carries across all boards
>implying threatening anyone with a gun over the internet makes you cool
>implying
>implying

>>>/b/

>>281392

/k/ would like a word with you, and your outright faggotry. You make all gun owners look bad.

also 4/10, made me respond/rustled jimmies.

People will mistake it as a real gun in it's current state. The drybrush method works. They used in LoTR to make all of the armor look convincing and real.

Wow, you motherfuckers are negative.

They make decent/higher end cigar boxes out of Cedar. The cheapest one you find isn't going to be the best you can find.

String tension - the more tension, the louder, and clearer

top thickness, the thinner the better, don't be afraid to ladder brace, or X-brace it.

Use a brass bridge price, and brass nut. Corian will also work, it's tonally different than bone, but comparable in hardness. Don't use plastic.

Neck wood, don't use pine. I recommend a hard wood, only because they resonate better and louder. Mahogany/maple etc. Cheap enough.

The whole point of these things are to keep it cheap and have an interesting playing piece. Motherfuckers use nails as frets for these things.

You can't fuck it up, every single one is unique and different.

Naysayers fuck off.

>>274045
>>274045

Mind you, this was a combination of cutting some negative space, and some positive space. His entire suit consisted of islands, so I opted to cut out the major details in positive space, the miniscule ones in negative space, and implied the hairline, instead of cutting the whole dealio.

Just be objective and approach it with some forethought.

Some Golgo 13 on a fuckin' ammo can.

also;

http://stencilry.org/main/index.php/tutorials/

how about a two-tone?

32 pound weight laser-printer paper.

Just make yourself some bridges to the islands and fill them in post-spray, if you're not under pressure.

If you're out and about, and doing it on the fly, the bridges are acceptable to see, because at first glance, nobody is going to notice them.

Make that dude some soap. It's not hard, and it's fun.

>>262038
>>262038

winner

What type of paint are you using? Rattlecan Enamel, or what? The thing about spraypaint is that it takes forever to actually cure. Yeah, it's dry to the touch and whatnot, but it's going to be shitty and fragile for "up to four months." I wish I could find the article.

If you're ~serious~ about painting controllers, look into getting a cheapo airbrush/background sprayer setup. (Don't you dare cringe when I mention where to get your cheap shit!) Go to Harbor freight, and you could be out with a "usable" setup for under a hundred bucks. Then you go to an automotive paint store and get two part paint/catalyst. Mix it thin for the airbrush, a little heavier for the background sprayer... Ample drying time, and proper clear afterwards almost guarantees a proper job.

Swirlybird can tell you something about non-durable paints...

>>258950
>>258950

Just make it aware that you are protected. I've got several Glock stickers on my ride, my cleaning bench is in the garage, I clean guns and shit in the open. The three houses to my left were broken into, skipped mine, and robbed the one on the left, not me though.

My occupation + my protection.

/k/omman/diy/er

Get it!

>>257737

Twas the option he has with the criteria that he gave.